ບາ ານ ອານ

ພວກເຮາຫວງວາທານຈະໄດຄວາມເພດເພນບນເທງໃຈໄປກບວາລະສານຂອງພວກເຮາ ສະບບເດອນ ກລະກດທຜານມານ ແລະ ມໂອກາດໄດໄປລອງສ�ພດບນດາກດຈະກ�ຍາມຄ�ຄນ ທພວກເຮາໄດແນະນ�, ບວາຈະເປນການລມລອງບນດາຄອກເທລໃນຕວເມອງວຽງຈນອນອບອນໄປຈນຮອດການຜະຈນໄພທນ�ເນນ ໄນ ຊາຟາຣ ທາງພາກເ ອຂອງລາວ.

ລະດ ນຂອງລາວເຮາປດຈບນກໄດມາຮອດມາເຖງຢາງເຕມທແລວ. ໃນພາກ ສະປອດໄລ ອອນ ສະບບນ ພວກເຮາໄດພບກນຊາງຖາຍຮບຜກາຫານ ເຊງເພນມຄວາມມງໝນທຈະຖາຍຮບ ຕອນຟາແມບຟາຜາ ຢແຄມແມນ�ຂອງ - ແລະ ເຮາເອງກໄດຮຽນຮເຄດລບບາງຢາງຈາກເພນ ເພອວາພວກເຮາຈະໄດຈບກອງ ໄປລອງຖາຍຮບດວຍຕນເອງເບງ.

ສະບາຍດ ເລອງເດນຈາກໜາປກສະບາຍດສະບບເດອນນ ພວກເຮາມຄມໃນ ນສ�ລບ ນກຖບລດຖບ ໂດຍໄດແນະນ�ການທອງທຽວເດນທາງຢພາຍໃນປະເທດລາວ ສ�ລບ ນກຖບລດຖບທກລນທກໄວ, ຕງແຕມສະໝກຫນ ໄປຈນຮອດ ລະດບມອາຊບ, ເປນຄມລະອຽດຄບຖວນ ສ�ລບການເດນທາງດວຍລດຖບ ທງເສນທາງໃນເມອງ ແລະ ເສນທາງວບາກຢ ນອກເມອງ.

ນອກນນແລວ ໃນສະບບທເຕມແ ນໄປດວຍສາລະໃນເດອນນ ພວກເຮາຍງໄດທອງທຽວລງໃຕ ໄປແຂວງຈ�ປາສກອນແສນວເສດ ເພອເລາະຊມວດບຮານອນເກາແກ ແລະ ສວນກາເຟທງດງາມສດສາຍຕາຫາກຫາຍບອນ. ນອກຈາກນນ ພວກເຮາກຍງໄດແນະນ� ກດຈະກ�ການທອງທຽວ ແບບຜະຈນໄພມວນໆທບາຫ, ອນໂດເນເຊຍ ນ�ອກ.

ໃນພາກຄມແນະນ�ດໆສະບບເດອນນ ພວກເຮາໄດແນະນ�ຮານອາຫານເຈ ອນດບຕນໆ 4 ແຫງໃນວຽງຈນ , ໄປຄຽງ ຄກນກບລາຍການບນດາສງທໜາສນໃຈ ກຄ ບອນກນ ບອນທຽວຕາງໆໃນທວລາວ.

ທານສາມາດຊອກຫາ ວາລະສານ ສະບາຍດ ໄດຕາມບນດາຮານກາເຟ, ຮານອາຫານ, ໂຮງແຮມ ແລະ ສະປາຕາງໆໃນວນທ 15 ຂອງທກໆເດອນ. ຖາທານມຄວາມຄດຄວາມເຫນ, ຄ�ແນະນ�, ມງານ ຫ ກດຈະກ�ຕາງໆ ທຢາກໃຫພວກເຮາລງໃນວາລະສານ ທານກສາມາດສງອເມລ ມາຫາບນນາທການຂອງພວກເຮາໄດທ e itor sabai ee-ma a ine.com. ຂໃຫທານມວນຊນໄປກບການອານວາລະສານຂອງພວກເຮາ!

ພນ ລະຄອນ ສ ບນ ເຮອງຜອ�ນວຍການ

Greetings readers!We hope you enjoyed our July issue last month and have had a chance to experience some of the ‘after dark’ activities we featured, from the masterful cocktails in cosy Vientiane bars to the more adventurous Nam Nern night safari in the country’s north.

The Lao monsoon season is now in full swing. In this issue’s Spotlight On feature we meet one brave photographer determined to capture the awe-inspiring lightning storms over the Mekong – and learn the tricks so we can grab our cameras and give it a try ourselves!

Our Sabaidee Cover feature this month is a cyclist’s dream guide to Laos. From complete beginners to seasoned, Lycra-clad professionals, there’s something for everyone in this thorough breakdown of the country’s very best urban and off-road routes.

Also in this month’s jam-packed issue, we travel to extraordinary Champasak province down south to explore ancient temples and boundless coffee farms. Looking for a regional escape? We’ve got you covered there, too, with a guide to the action-packed adventure tourism scene in Bali, Indonesia.

Vegetarians rejoice! In this month’s edition of The Good Guide we review four of the top non-meat restaurants in Vientiane, along with our usual curated list of things to see and do around Laos.

Find Sabaidee Magazine in your favourite cafes, restaurants, hotels and spas from the 15th of every month. Got suggestions, comments or an event you’d like to see featured? Email our editor on editor@sabaidee-magazine.com.

Enjoy the read!

Phanhlakhone SyboonheungThe Director

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C O N T R I B U T O R S

MICHELLE LUEHMANMichelle has spent the last 20 years living and work-ing around the world, and most of that time has been spent around Asia. An avid observer of people and places, she has written extensively about life in Asia, both as a visitor and a resident. She has worked for life-style and travel magazines around the globe capturing the essence and flavour of life in each different locality.

JAMES ELTON-PYMn the cusp of finishing his ournalism degree in yd-

ney, Australia, James decided to put off the inevitable and instead move to aos, despite being too tall to fit through any of the country’s doorways, to work as a subeditor for the Vientiane Times newspaper. James helped with coverage of the 2013 Australian election for News Corporation and was the host of a local current affairs programme on a Sydney community station. He likes to write stories about little individuals that create big changes, especially in the environment.

STEPHEN COOPERHaving grown up in the Australian country township of Berrigan, Stephen has since travelled and lived in countries including Japan, England, Canada, Singapore and Laos. He took up photography as a hobby hile travelling and en oys the serenity of it.

is favourite sub ects are lightning storms and ildlife such as raptors and aguars. When he’s not travelling he works as an IT consultant.

SHAYLING NGO recent ournalism graduate from ustralia, hayling

relocated to Vientiane in order to pursue her dreams of writing and travelling. Intrigued by Southeast Asian cultures she hopes to share her adventures and experiences with the world, one word at a time.

Travel

26 Further Afield: Southern Exposure - Three days in Champasak and Pakse38 ASEAN Connect: River Deep, Mountain High - Bali’s pulsing adventure scene

News & Events

10 What's On 14 What's New

Lifestyle

20 My City: My Vientiane21 Mekong Storm Chasing - Capturing Lao monsoons through the lens29 Sabaidee Cover: Pedal Power - Discovering the wonders of Laos by bicycle 41 The Good Guide: EAT, DRINK, RELAX, SHOP, SEE & DO, SLEEP listings42 Sabaidee’s Guide To: Veggies of Vientiane - The capital’s best vegetarian-only restaurants

19thT H I S I S S U E

A U G U S T 2 0 1 429

38 42

ON THE COVERPedal Power - Discoveringthe wonders of Laos by bicyclephoto Ph oonsab T h evongsa

IAN LACEYRaised in We ford, reland, an no lives in slo paced Vientiane. After falling into writing by accident, he likes to concentrate on pieces that reflect his t o great interests in life – travel and conservation. Ian recently completed a 15 month, 27,000km unsupported bicycle ourney from laska to rgentina for charity, and since then has formed some alternative thoughts on the nature of travel. You can see blogs and photos on his website www.350South.org.

P B6

WHERE WE ARE

VIENTIANEIncreasingly modern bustling capital with a trailblazing dining scene that must be tasted to be believed. Here you’ll find intricately adorned temples sitting alongside Parisian-style boulangeries, glossy developments, a young emerging creative scene, and some of the country’s most lively marketplaces.

LUANG PRABANGTranquil heritage-listed city boasting exquisite handicrafts, rich cultural sites steeped in history, a cosmopolitan bar scene and oodles of French colonial charm, all where the idyllic Nam Kahn and Mekong rivers meet. The perfect destination for the discerning traveller, the city is dotted with boutique hotels and spas.

VANG VIENGOne-time party haven turned an outdoor enthusiasts dream, the small town is set to a backdrop of magnificent limestone karsts and lush forest. Nothing beats whiling a day away kayaking down the Nam Song river or taking a dip at the serene blue lagoon – utter relaxation in nature.

SAVANNAKHETSitting on the banks of the Mekong, this growing city is the second-largest in Laos. The town centre houses ambient French Colonial architecture and small and friendly eateries are dotted along the riverfront. Just beyond the city you’ll find e cellent trekking routes through the nearby Dong Natad Protected Area.

PAKSEThe capi ta l o f the southern province of Champassak, Pakse is the gateway to the picturesque Bolaven Plateau which is home to an abundance of scenic waterfalls and motorcycle routes, and is widely regarded as producing some of the highest-quality coffee in the country.

THAKHEKA launching pad for the captivating Thakhek Loop. Throw your kit on a rented motorbike and set off on a 4-day journey to explore the hidden Buddha Cave, secluded water holes, tiny villages and, the main attraction, Kong Lor Cave which houses a snaking river system accessed only by motorboat.

XAYABOURY Home to the Land of Million Elephants’ highest pachyderm population. Each year in February aotians and travellers flock here to pay their respects to these magnificent endangered

creatures during the annual Elephant Festival.

HMLAO

WHO'S

All material appearing in Sabaidee Lifestyle & Travel Magazine is strictly copyrighted and all rights are reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in whole or part without the prior written permission to the copyright holder. All articles and photographs published herein are created by the authors and photographers at their own discretion and do not necessarily represent the view of the publisher of the magazine. Sabaidee Lifestyle & Travel Magazine holds no responsibility or liability arising out of the publication of such articles and photographs.

ONLINE EDITION ALSO AVAILABLE AT:

For more informationvisit www.sabaidee-magazine.com

or simply scan the QR code

[ ຄະນະທປກສາ / Consultants ] ພດທະລະພງ ຄງວຈດ Pattarapong Kongvijit / ວສດ ເຊາວະລດຕານນ Wisith Chawalitanon / ມານະໄຊ ອນແກວ Manachai Inkaew / ສມໃຈ ພມຜາສກ Somjai Pimpasouk [ ຜອຳນວຍການ / Director ] ພນລະຄອນ ສບນເຮອງ Phanhlakhone Syboonheung [ ບນນາທການອຳນວຍການ / Editorial Director ] ເກດ ພດທະຢາກອນສນ Gaid Kornsilapa [ ບນນາທການບລຫານ / Editor in Chief ] ຄຳສວນ ຈນທະລາດ Khamsouan Chanthalat [ ບນນາທການ ພາສາອງກດ / English Editor ] ເຈມສ ເອລຕນ-ພມ James Elton-Pym [ ບນນາທການອອນລາຍ / Online Editor ] ຂະນດຖາ ອດຕະເມດ Kanittha Attamate [ ຜອຳນວຍການຝາຍຂາຍ / Sales & Marketing Director ] ຊະຍາດາ ອະລຍະພນຈະເລນ Chayada Ariyaphoncharoen [ ປະສານງານການຕະຫາດ / Marketing Co-ordinator ] ບນລອດ ສດທພງ Bounlod Sittiphong [ ທມງານຂາວ / Reporter ] ເທບພະວງສອນ ບວພາ Thepphavongsone Bouapha [ ຈດໜາ ແລະ ອອກແບບ / Layout Design ] ນດນະລ ມາທອງ Nutnaree Mathong / ທະນະວດ ຄງແສນຄຳ Thanawatt Khongseankhum / ວນວລາດ ບນລດ Wanvilart Boonyaratana [ ຫອງການວາລະສານສະບາຍດ / Sabaidee Magazine Sales Office THM Lao Co., Ltd. ] 256 ບານ ໜອງບອນ ເມອງໄຊເສດຖາ ນະຄອນຫວງວຽງຈນ ສປປ ລາວ 265 Baan Nongbone, Xayxetha, Vientiane Lao P.D.R [ ໂທ / ແຟກ: / Tel / Fax ] +856 21 454782 / +856 21 454782 / Mobile: +856 20 5516 2440, +856 20 5884 8376, +66 83 018 4076 (Thai) [ ອເມລ ບນນາທການ / Editor Email ] editor@sabaidee-magazine.com [ ອເມລ ຝາຍຂາຍ / Sales Email ] chayada@sabaidee-magazine.com [ ເຈາຂອງ ແລະ ຜຈດພມ / Owner & Publisher ] ທ ເອສ ເອມ ລາວ THM Lao www.sabaidee-magazine.com [ ພມທ / Print by ] ໂຮງພມ ລາວຍນພຮນ ຈຳກດ Lao Uniprint Press Co., Ltd

WHAT'S ON

MERGINGThroughout August, i:cat gallery, Vientianei:cat gallery will host Merging, an exhibition combining the works of Lao and international artists who are living in Vientiane. Artworks on display include, photography, paintings, prints, textiles and drawings. Free entry, gallery hours Mon-Fri 1pm-8pm, Sat & Sun 1pm-6pm. For more information visit www.facebook.com/icatgallery.

ART.

LEARN TO BACHATA AND SALSATuesdays for Bachata, Thursdays for Salsa, 9pm-10pm, April 12, Vientiane

pril 12 opens their dance floor for classes in Bachata and Salsa each week. Enjoy Latin music while teachers Erzio and Amantha teach you the moves from 9pm-10pm, followed by free dance time. Bachata classes are free, while Salsa classes are 35,000 kip per person per session. For more information visit www.facebook.com/april12.restaurant.

DANCE.

LIVE PAINTINGSaturdays, 9am-5pm, Maison de la Culture, VientianeCome along to Maison de la Culture on Saturdays to watch talented artist Mick Saylom at work on a brand new painting. The quality of Mick’s pieces has earned him a following among overseas collectors. For the live painting, come on Saturdays between 9am-5pm, but the gallery is open every day except Sunday within the same hours. Mick can be contacted on 020 5562 2173.

MUSIC.

PAUL CARTER LIVESeptember 12, 6.30pm, La Maison Res-taurant, VientianeFrench restaurant La Maison is hosting local jazz musi-cian Paul Carter for a monthly night of live music. Paul will perform everything from blues, jazz, pop, 80s and 90s tunes in the restaurant’s leafy outdoor courtyard. Happy hour runs from 5.30pm-7.30pm, and La Maison is now also broadcasting live sport including NBA, rugby, tennis, and football from 5.30pm-10pm.

FRENCH ON FILMSaturdays, 2pm and 6pm, Institute Français, VientianeInstitut Français du Laos opens its cinema to the public for free each Saturday to promote the exciting, moving and inspiring world of French film. o films are sho n at each session from 2pm and 6pm. Family friendly films on offer. Free entry. For the full programme visit www.if-laos.org.

FILM.

KHAO NIEW ON TOUROctober 10-15, Luang Prabang, venues TBAVientiane-based theatre company Khao Niew's most recent play ‘Metamorfoz’ will tour Luang Prabang as part of the Lao Culture Challenge Fund sponsored by the Swiss Agency for Development and Cooperation. The play tells the story of a family living by and off the river and how this life is changing. It is co-produced by French theatre company Theatr Piba. ‘Metamorfoz’ is performed in Lao, but subtitled in English. Venues are still to be announced. For more information visit www.facebook.com/pages/Khao-Niew-Lao/436586063040845, or email khaoniewlao@gmail.com or kiritin.n@gmail.com (English).

THEATRE.

1 0

12 Khouvieng Rd, Vientiane Capital, Lao PDR

Phone: +856 21 26 4097Fax: +856 21 26 3064

Email : info@greenparkvientiane.comwww.greenparkvientiane.com

Ban Viengkeo, Vang ViengVientiane Province, Lao PDRPhone: +856 (0)23 511 726-8Fax: +856 (0)23 511 729Email: info@riversidevangvieng.comwww.riversidevangvieng.com

Riverside Boutique Resort, Vang Vieng - The Charm of Tradition on the Bank of the Nam Song

Green Park Boutique Hotel - Elegance and Timeless Comfort in the Heart of Vientiane

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The Charm of Tradition on the Bank of the Nam SongRiverside Boutique Resort, Vang Vieng - The Charm of Tradition on the Bank of the Nam Song

WHAT'S ON

BOURBON, BEERS, PIES & FOOTY AT STICKY FINGERSWeekly, AFL games as per schedule, Sticky Fingers, VientianeSticky Fingers will show all televised afternoon, evening and weekend Australian Rules football games from their upper level bar area, Sticky Jocks. Enjoy a cold beer and some classic pub fare, including Aussie meat pies, as you cheer on your favourite team. While there’re no games the area will be business as usual. For more informa-tion visit www.facebook.com/StickyFingersLaos.

AUSKICK FOR KIDSAugust 10, 9.30am-10.30am, Vientiane International School, VientianeThe Lao Elephants Football Club will hold an Auskick workshop at VIS, aimed at introducing children aged bet een five and 12 to Australian Rules Football. The fun, free session is open to kids of all nationalities and levels of experience, with all equipment provided. Parents and volunteers are welcome to attend or join in on the day. Contact the Lao Elephants for more details on 020 5505 9116

ELEPHANTS QUIZ NIGHTAugust 30, 7pm, Vientiane International School, VientianeThe Lao Elephants Football Club are holding a quiz night and silent auction to raise funds for their Lao national players to travel to regional and international tournaments with the club throughout the year. Upcoming games in 2014 include a match in Bangkok and the Manila Cup in the Philippines. Tickets are US$50 per person. Tables are of six people. Tickets include catering by Pimenton restaurant, along with beer, wine and non-alcoholic drinks. There will also be a pay-as-you-go cocktail bar available on the night. For more details and to book a table contact Craig on 020 5505 9116.

COLOURFUL COCKTAILSDaily, 6pm-8pm, Couleur d’Asie, VientianeHead to the Coluleur d’Asie concept store in the heart of downtown, opposite Wat Mixay, for discount drinks every single night of the week. Get 20% off all aperitifs and slashed prices on a range of new cocktails. Visit the Facebook page or call 020 2815 7690 for more information.

FOR THE LADIESWednesdays, from 7pm, I-Beam, VientianeI-Beam bar and restaurant’s popular Ladies Night continues every Wednesday with female customers enjoying 50% off all glasses of wine from 7pm onwards. The bar is well-stocked with European and South African vintages, so there’s sure to be something for all tastes, and the delectable tapas menu makes for an excellent accompaniment. For more details visit www.facebook.com/ibeamvientiane.

SOCIAL.

SPORT.

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WHAT'S NEW

Downtown Vientiane café Benoni is currently displaying a powerful exhibition of black-and-white photographs from rural parts of Laos taken by

etherlands born photographer lbert eeflang, who has spent the last eight years exploring the country by motorcycle. He has travelled more than 25,000km, mostly off road. his method of travel allowed him to reach more remote places that are often insulated from the fast-paced economic and touristic development taking place elsewhere. “LIVE LAOS” is a collection of 24 photographs from these road trips, shot ith black and hite film. he simple photographs are designed to tell a story, and the absence of colour intensifies the grittiness of the work.

RURAL Laos in black W

Aspiring young fashion designers around Laos are invited to compete in Fashion esign Contest 2014 for a chance at winning a prestigious six-month scholarship at the ESMOD School of Fashion in

aris. he competition as organised follo ing the great success of ao Fashion Week 2014, hich took place in Vientiane from March 5-7 earlier this year. All young Laotians – both men and women – are invited to submit an entry in keeping with the design theme ‘Modern Design with Lao Essence’. Anyone interested can get entry details by emailing info@laofashion eek.com. he submission deadline is ctober 0, and inners ill be announced one month later on ovember 0.

Young Designers F F R R SCHOLARSHIP Hollywood blockbusters and a special

documentary will be screened in the parking lot of the ational Culture all from ctober 1 5 for merican Film Week. he uang rabang Film Festival and the US Embassy in Vientiane agreed to jointly hold the event again following its popularity last year. Along with the free screenings, there ill be lectures and discussions led by film e perts throughout the eek. CocaCola is sponsoring the event, ith 100 of their donations, as ell as those from other sponsors, going straight into the ao Filmmakers Fund. he publicly generated fund allo s ao filmmakers to apply for grants to help realise their film pro ects. A reception will be held on the evening of October 6 to raise more money for the fund. Follow the Luang Prabang Film Festival's Facebook page for schedules and updates.

Hollywood C R C M

C rading ao has successfully demonstrated the benefits of its organic fertiliser and is continuing to provide it to rice farmers in Savannakhet and

hammouane provinces. he company also recently held an event to reward dealers who have supported SCG’s ‘Elephant Brand’. A party was held on uly 19 at aosavanh otel pa. pecial rewards were given to all participants.

SCG R R VIDES R C F R LIZER he npeng Culture and ntertainment ark has

opened on the edge of the Mekong a little way out of to n near the Friendship ridge. he park includes a scenic pool right on the edge of the river, beer gardens, colourful aterslides, shops and cafes. Right next door is the Ethnic Cultural

ark, hich includes different styles of traditional Lao houses and some huge concrete sculptures of dinosaurs. n eekends, e pect the pools to be packed with young Lao looking to escape the heat!

Huge W W R R W

Sabaidee Magazine and members of the Ministry of nformation, Culture and ourism’s central public relations team recently toured Xaysomboun province in central aos. hey met ith the provincial governor Dr Sombath Yialiher (centre) and the Director of the ministry’s Xaysomboun department, Mr onepadith aranouvong third left . he governor discussed the tourism potential of the brand ne province, hich ill celebrate its first anniversary this ecember, and his plans to attract more visitors.

Discovering LAOS’ W R C

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WHAT'S NEW

ໃນວນທ 24 ກລະກດທຜານມາ ຢທໂຮງຮຽນມດ ທະຍມສມບນເວນຄ� ໄດຈດພທມອບ - ຮບຫອງ ສະໝດຫງໃໝໂດຍແມນບລສດເກຍມເຕຈາກດ ມອບໃຫແກໂຮງຮຽນແຫງດງກາວ ໂດຍການເປນ ກຽດເຂາຮວມຂອງທານ ປາກ ແທຈນ ( ark ae in) ອ�ນວຍການບລສດເກຍມເຕຈ�ກດ, ທານ

ຊນ ຊາງວ ( in an oo) ຜຈດການບລສດ ເກຍມເຕຈ�ກດ, ທານ ຄມ ບຊກ ( im oo ik) ອ ນວຍການໃຫຍຂອງກມບລສດໂຄລາວດວລບ ພງ, ທານ ຈນທະລາ ອນທະລງສ ເຈາເມອງໆ ໄຊທານ, ທານ ສດທະນ ໄຊຍະສານ ຮອງຫວໜາ ພະແນກສກສານະຄອນຫວງ ພອມດວຍຫວໜາ ຫອງການ, ພະນກງານພາຍໃນເມອງໄຊທານ, ນອກນນກຍງມ ອາສາສະໝກຈ�ນວນ 100 ກວາຄນທມາຈາກ 50 ສະຖາບນຈາກ ສ.ເກາຫ, ຄອາຈານ ແລະ ນອງນກຮຽນຈາກໂຮງຮຽນມດທະຍມສມບນເວນຄ ຕະຫອດຮອດອ ນາດການປກ ຄອງ, ພແມ, ປະຊາຊນບານເວນຄ�ກເຂາຮວມ.

ພທດງກາວນ ຖວາເປນກດຈະກ�ໜງຂອງໂຄງການ ແຮບປມບອາສາສະໝກໄວໜມທວໂລກ ( app

o e lobal out olunteers) ເຊງໄດຮບ ການສະໜບສະໜນຈາກບລສດເກຍມເຕຈາກດ ທມຂນເປນປະຈ�, ໃນການຊວຍເ ອຄງນແມນໄດ ໃຫທນກສາງຫອງສະໝດໃໝ 1 ຫງເປນຈ�ນວນ ເ ນ 500 ກວາລານກບ ແລະ ການຊວຍເ ອທາງ ດານແຮງງານຂອງອາສາສະໝກຈ�ນວນ 100 ກວາຄນ. ນອກນນຍງໄດສອມແປງອາຄານຮຽນ, ຈດຊໂຕະຕງຈ�ນວນ 0 ຊດ, ກະດານດ� ແລະກ ບອນນງຫນ ໃຊເວລາໃນການກສາງ ແລະສອມແປງ ແຕວນທ 14 ກລະກດ ຈນເຖງ 24 ກລະກດ ຈງ ສ�ເລດ ເຊງລວມມນຄາການຊວຍເ ອທງໝດ ແມນຫາຍກວາ 1,000 ລານກບ. ນອກຈາກກດຈະ ກ�ຄງນແລວໃນ 2 ປທຜານມາ ບລສດເກຍກຍງໄດໃຫການຊວຍເ ອຢທແຂວງວຽງຈນ ແລະຫາຍໆປະເທດໃນຂງເຂດອາຊຕາເວນອອກສຽງໃຕ.

ໃນພທຍງມການສະແດງບດຟອນພນເມອງແຕລະຊນເຜາຂອງນອງນກຮຽນຈາກມດທະຍມສມບນເວນຄ� ແລະ ການສະແດງສລະປະຂອງອາສາສະໝກເກາຫ ເຮດໃຫບນຍາກາດມຂະບວນຟດຟນ.

ທານ ບວຄາ ຈນບນມ ຜອານວຍການໂຮງຮຽນມດທະຍມສມບນເວນຄ�ໄດກາວສະແດງ ຄວາມຂອບໃຈຢາງສດຊງມາຍງບລສດເກຍມເຕຈ�ກດ ແລະ ອາສາສະໝກຂອງໂຄງການແຮບ ປມບທໄດໃຫການຊວຍເ ອໃນຄງນ ແລະ ທານ ສດທະນ ໄຊຍະສານກໄດມອບໃບຍອງຍ ແລະ ຂອງທລະນກໃຫກບທາງພາກສວນບລສດເກຍມເຕຈ�ກດ.

ນອກຈາກນທາງບລສດເກຍມເຕຈ�ກດ ຮວມກບບລສດໂຄລາວດວລບພງຍງໄດມອບໝາກ ບານຈ�ນວນ 100 ໜວຍ ແລະຖງໃສເຄອງກລາຈ�ນວນ 100 ໜວຍໃຫກບທາງໂຮງຮຽນ ຕມອກ.

ເກຍໄດໃຫທນຊວຍເ ອຫາຍກວາ 1, 000 ລານກບແກໂຮງຮຽນມດທະຍມສມບນເວນຄ�ພາຍໃຕໂຄງການແຮບປມບອາສາສະໝກໄວໜມທວໂລກ ( app o e lobal out olunteers)

1 6

Stay connected and follow our most recent news activities and win some free vouchersat our Facebook page at www.facebook.com/sabaideemagazine

Welcome to Sabaidee Club! This is a space for our readers to take part in a monthly competition with the chance to win fantastic prizes.

is mont e love to n out a out your avourite ee en tri s it in aos ere o you go to escape from the city that’s also close enough that you can make it back to work by Monday? Email your answer to editor@sabaidee-magazine.com, or post it on our Facebook page before September 9, 2014.

The winner will receive a 100,000 kip voucher to spend at the indulgent Xayoh Grillhouse!

ສະບາຍດ ຄລບຍນດຕອນຮບສ ສະບາຍດ ຄລບ! ພນທບອນນແມນມໄວສ�ລບທານຜອານ ເພອເຂາຮວມການແຂງຂນປະຈ�ເດອນ ຂອງພວກເຮາ ແລະ ລນຮບຂອງລາງວນພເສດຢາງຫວງຫາຍ.

ສ�ລບເດອນນ ພວກເຮາຢາກຮກຽວກບ ສະຖານທທອງທຽວທທານມກໄປ ໃນມພກທາຍອາທດ ຢພາຍໃນປະເທດ ລາວນ ທານມກໜຈາກຕວເມອງໄປທຽວໃສ ໃນມພກວນເສາ-ອາທດ, ບອນທບໃກບໄກ ແລະ ກສາມາດກບມາ ເຮດວຽກທນໃນມວນຈນ ສງອເມລຄ�ຕອບຂອງທານມາໄດທ e itor sabai ee-ma a ine.com ຫ ໂພສລງ ໜາເຟສບກຂອງພວກເຮາ ກອນວນທ 9 ກນຍາ 2014.

ຜໂຊກດ ຈະໄດຮບບດຮບປະທານອາຫານແຊບໆ ທຮານ ໄຊໂ ກຣວເຮາ ມນຄາ 100,000 ກບ!

We are now on Instagram! Follow us ase e lore aos on sa ai eemaga ineສນໃຈເປນສະມາຊກ ວາລະສານ ສະບາຍດ

ຕດຕພວພນ ໂທ 021 454 782ຫ mail : subscribe sabai ee-ma a ine.com

he uang rabang Film Festival ill run from 6 10 ecember and, like al ays, ill sho case the best recent films from across Southeast

sia. he most e citing place to check out films during the event is the festival’s Night Venue at the andicraft Market, right in the centre of to n. here, 00 chairs are set up each year, though the festival regularly welcomes audiences of over a thousand visitors stopping by to watch movies under the stars. In addition to feature film screenings all subtitled in nglish , there

ill be short films, s ith filmmakers, panel discussions with experts from around the region and beyond, and several e hibitions on display.

nd, of course, for you selfie lovers out there, there are always many opportunities to take pictures with the celebrities and directors in attendance. If you didn’t think it could get any better, all of the festival’s screenings and activities are totally free and open to the public. For more information, visit the festival’s ebsite at .lpfilmfest.org, or oin 0,000 other follo ers on their Facebook page at

.facebook.com lpfilmfest.

Silver Screen POPS UP IN LUANG PRABANG

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A brand new archery and shooting range has opened ust outside ientiane in an athom, attached to the popular Ban Sufa Garden Resort. Lao Shooting Concepts introduces a range of ne shooting related games to aos, including paintball matches, aerial target shooting and archery. Using state-of-the-art equipment that launches spinning targets high into the air, enthusiasts will be able to hone their accuracy and skill. he eapons’ themselves are hightech as ell, ith the guns shooting balls stuffed

ith a coloured po der that gives a flash’ effect hen it hits a target. his is the same system used

in Olympic Games clay-shooting events. Visit www.laoshootingconcepts.com for more information.

W C M R Lao shooters opular ao restaurant Makphet, hich trains

disadvantaged youth in cooking and hospitality skills, has reopened in a brand ne location ith even more space to accommodate its growing clientele. Friends nternational, the that oversees the restaurant, announced that Makphet

ould no be located at 7 an npeng, at Chanh ha. he trading hours have also been e tended

the restaurant will now be open seven days a week.

Makphet OPENS IN W C

A Stylish Budget AccommodationOption in Luang Prabang

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FOR RESEFOR RESERRVVAAVAVVAV TIONS, PLEASE CONTIONS, PLEASE CONATIONS, PLEASE CONAATIONS, PLEASE CONA TTACACTACTTACT TT::T:TT:T

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MY CITYi n te rv i e w & photos Sh ayling N goWhat better way to get to know a city than through those who live, work, and play in it? Sabaidee Magazine chats to a resident to get an insider’s guide to their locale.

PHONESAVANH ‘NINI’ VILIVONG IS A DOWN-TO-EARTH ENTREPRENEUR

JUGGLING SEVERAL BUSINESSES IN DOWNTOWN VIENTIANE. SHE’S AMBITIOUS,

AND ALWAYS STRIVES TO MAKE HER DREAMS COME TRUE. WITH HER FAMILY

AND HUSBAND, SHE OWNS AND OPERATES BENONI CAFÉ AND LE TRIO

COFFEE – AND MEANWHILE, SHE’S PLANNING HER NEXT VENTURE. NINI

TAKES A MOMENT OUT OF HER HECTIC LIFE TO GIVE US THE WHAT’S WHAT

ON LIVING IN VIENTIANE.

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ວຽງຈນຂອງຂອຍພ ອ ນ ສ ະ ຫ ວນ ນນ ວ ລ ວງ ເ ປນ

ເຈາຂອງທລະກດ ແລະ ດ ເນນ ກ ດ ຈ ະ ກ າ ນ ຮ າ ນ ອ າ ຫ າ ນ ຮ າ ນ ກ າ ເ ຟ ຫ າ ຍ ບ ອ ນ ແ ລ ະ ຢໃຈກາງຕວເມອງວຽງຈນ. ລາວມ ຄວາມທະເຍທະຍານ ໃນການ

ພະຍາຍາມ ສານຄວາມ ນ ຂອງລາວ ໃຫເປນຈງຢສະເໝ. ນນດ� ເນນກດຈະການ

ແລະ ເປນເຈາຂອງຮານ ເບໂນນ ກາເຟ ແລະ ຮານກາເຟ ເລ ທຣໂອ ຮວມກນກບຄອບຄວ ແລະ ສາມຂອງລາວ. ມນ ນນ ຈະມາເວາສພວກເຮາຟງ ກຽວກບການດ ລງຊວດຂອງລາວຢ ໃນວຽງຈນ

ເ ຈາ ເ ລມ ມ ວ າ ມ ສນ ຈ ກ າ ນ ວ ເ ດ ກ າ ເ ແ ວ

ຂອຍເລມເຮດມມກາເຟເບໂນນມາໄດຫາຍປແລວ. ຕອນນນ ກວາຈະຊອກກາເຟຂວທດ ກບຄນນະພາບທສະເໝຕນສະເໝປາຍໄດ ແມນຍາກຫາຍ, ແລະ ເມອຂອຍໄດພບພ ແລະ ແຕງງານກບສາມຂອງຂອຍ, ພວກເຮາກເລຍຕດສນໃຈເຮດບອນຂວກາເຟຂອງພວກເຮາເອງເລຍ. ພວກເຮາຊເຄອງຈກຂວສ�ລບ 2 ກໂລກາມ ແລະ ເລມເຮດຈາກນອຍໆກອນ, ແຕຕມາ ກກາຍເປນທນຍມຂນ.

ສກແ ວ ກບການເລມສາງຕງທລະກດເ ນ ງ ຕນເອງຮສກວາມນຕນເຕນຫາຍ. ເຮາຮຽນຮຈາກຄວາມຜດພາດຂອງເຮາ ເອງ ແຕມນກເປນສງທດຫາຍ. ຂອຍຄດວາ ມນເປນສງທດທສດທຂອຍເຄຍເຮດມາ. ເຈາ ແ ວ ວາເຈາຢາກເ ດທລະກດທາງດານ

ານກາເ ນຕອນທຂອຍຢເ ຍລະມນ ເຊງເປນບອນທຂອຍໃຊຊວດຢເປນ ເວລາ 16 ປ, ຂອຍເຮດວຽກຢຮານກາເຟຫາຍໆບອນ ແລະ ຂອຍ ເອງກຮສກຫງຮກກບສະເ ຂອງມນ.

ບນດາ ານກາເ ວ ງ ນຕ ນນເ ນແ ວຂອຍຄດວາຕອນນມນຂະ າຍຕວຂນຫາຍ ແລະ ເລມຈະ ມຄວາມຊ�ນຊ�ນານຫາຍຂນ ແຕກຍງຕອງໃຊເວລາຕມ ໜອຍໜງ. ຂອຍມປະສບການມາ 6 ປ ແຕຂອຍກຍງຄດວາຂອຍຍງຕອງໄດຮຽນຮຕມອກຫາຍໆຢາງ. ອນນແ ະ ທເປນສະເ ຂອງມນ ເຈາຕອງບເຊາຮຽນຮສງໃໝໆຢຕະຫອດ.

ກນກາເ ຢ ານ ດທສດໂດຍສວນຕວແລວ ຮານທຂອຍມກແມນຮານ e ittle ouse. ຂອຍໄປກນຢຫນຕງແຕຕອນມນເປດທ�ອດ ເປນຮານນອຍໆ, ແລະ ປດຈບນຮານນກຍງເປນໜງໃນບນດາສະຖານທ ທຂອຍມກໄປຢ.

ເຈາ າດ ະ າຢາກເ ດ ງແ ມພກທາ າທດ:ຂອຍຢາກພກຜອນ ແລະ ໄປນວດຢສະປາ. ຂອຍມກຮານ ລລ ສະກນແຄ - ເປນຮານປະຈ�ຂອງຂອຍເລຍ.

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HOW DID YOU BECOME INTERESTED IN ROASTING COFFEE BEANS?

I started Benoni Coffee Corner several years ago. t as ust difficult to find good roasters or consistent uality and hen met my husband and e got married, e decided to start our o n roasting. We bought a t o kilogram machine and started small, only roasting for our little corner, but it became popular ith more and more people demanding it.

WHAT WAS IT LIKE STARTING YOUR OWN BUSINESS?

t’s very e citing. ou learn from your mistakes but it’s great. think it’s the best thing ’ve done.

HOW DID YOU KNOW YOU WANTED TO GO INTO THE CAFE INDUSTRY?

ack in ermany, here lived for 16 years of my life, orked a lot in coffee shops and as in love ith the charm and this idea of coffee flair’.

WHAT IS THE VIENTIANE COFFEE SCENE LIKE?

think it’s gro ing a lot and is starting to become more sophisticated but it needs a bit more time. nyone can buy a nice car but if you don t kno ho to drive it . . . that’s the ay see it ith coffee as ell. have si years of e perience and there’s still so much to learn. hat’s the charm of it all you don’t stop learning.

BEST PLACE TO GRAB A COFFEE:

My personal favourite is actually he ittle ouse. ’ve been there since they opened and

it started really small but it’s one of my favourite spots. obody kne about it at the time and it as really hidden.

DESCRIBE YOUR IDEAL WEEKEND:

ould rela and go to a spa and have a massage. like ily kincare that’s my favourite.

SPOTLIGHT ON

Expensive gear, months of planning and e tremely uick refle es. hankfully, you don’t need any of these to get a great lightning photo.

In fact, I’ve been sitting back enjoying a cold Beerlao while a number of my best shots

ere taken. etting the shot comes do n to a few fundamentals – and of course, some luck.

LOCATION, LOCATION, LOCATION – BUT NOT TOO CLOSE!

ou need to be some here you can see lightning but above all you have to be safe. Lightning kills people every year, and being located at a high vantage point near a metal tripod isn’t a good idea. Find some here you can see from but that is dry and under some cover in case it starts raining.

Rain can get into your lens and change your shot. good, cheap bit of protection is a plastic bag and some rubber bands over your camera.

ars can be nice vantage points, but be are of others bumping your e uipment. prefer places ith fe er people. ook for spots here you can take a nice photo ithout any lightning at all.

MEKONG S T O R M CHASING

words & photos Step h en C oop er

WHEN THE DARK CLOUDS ROLL IN AND MOST OF US BATTEN DOWN THE HATCHES, AN INTREPID FEW ARE GRABBING THEIR CAMERAS AND VENTURING OUT ON THE HUNT FOR SPECTACULAR LIGHTNING PHOTOS. VIENTIANE RESIDENT AND PHOTOGRAPHER STEPHEN COOPER GIVES HIS TIPS FOR CAPTURING THE ELECTRIC POWER OF LAO MONSOONS THROUGH THE LENS.

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THE STORM CHASER’S CAMERA BAG

What to pack: camera Rs are ideal. reliable tripod. pare batteries. Camera batteries can go flat uickly hen taking long e posures. Memory cards ith enough room, and spares if possible. ou may end up taking a lot of photos to get the right shot. lens cloth.

Buying Stephen’s prints to support charity: Stephen takes vibrant, professional photographs all around Laos and donates all the money he earns selling prints to local charities. See examples of his work at http://yourshot.nationalgeographic.com/profile/327258/ and arrange a purchase through his email address, coopers@consultant.com.

GETTING THE SHOT

Manually set your focus and your settings. ou might like to try taking some test shots before any lighting actually happens to make sure everything looks ho you ant it to. Mastering your camera’s settings requires practice and experience, so get out there and shoot as much as possible.

he biggest trick for lightning photography is using long e posure times – the amount of time the shutter on the camera stays open to capture more strikes in the frame.

ime lapse photography, here the camera takes continuous photos after set periods of time, is very useful for shooting storms. he idea is for the camera to move as little as possible hen the

photos are taken, so ideally you don’t want to be touching the camera. ome Rs have this function built in for others, you might need an external device like a remote or a device called a intervalometer.

generally give the camera a fe seconds bet een each shot. o for e ample, if ere taking 10 second e posures ould use 12 or 1 seconds to take each shot. Remember, your shots should look a little dark when there is no lightning in them – lightning can be very bright and ill illuminate the frame.

his kind of photography is great because can have a eerlao while the camera does the work!

FROM IPHONES TO DSLRS he uestion get asked about lightning photography most often

is hat e uipment can be used.

While it’s possible to get lightning shots with a camera on your phone or a point and shoot, it is a lot harder than using a igital

ingle ens Refle R camera. hones and point and shoots are usually better served videoing storms, mainly because they lack manual focus and other manual settings.

here are some apps for smartphones that might offer a solution. f you haven’t got a R yourself, you might be able to borro a friend’s – this is a good way to test different models if you’re in the market for a new camera yourself!

good tripod is nearly as important as the camera. With tripods, you get hat you pay for. aving an e pensive camera on a cheap tripod ill end badly. he more eight it can hold the better, as you can usually hang a camera bag or other weight underneath to add stability, hich is very handy if it’s indy.

2 2

ຕອນທຂອຍຖາຍຮບພາບຟາຜາງາມໆໄດຫາຍຮບ ແມນຕອນທຂອຍກ�ລງນງພກຜອນ ດມເບຍລາວເ ນໆຢ. ການທຈະຖາຍຮບຟາຜາໄດນນ ແມນຂນກບຫກພນຖານຈ�ນວນໜງ ແລະ ແນນອນ ແມນຂນກບໂຊກນ�.

ສະ ານທ ສະ ານທ ສະ ານທ ແຕຢາເ າ າທານຕອງໄປຢບອນທສາມາດແນມເຫນຟາຜາ ແຕຕວທານເອງກຕອງຢບອນທປອດໄພນ�. ຟາຜາພາກຊວດຄນທກໆປ, ແລະ ການໄປຢບອນສງຈາກໜາດນ ພອມຂາຕງກອງທເປນເ ກ ກບແມນຄວາມຄດທດ ພປານໃດ. ໃຫທານໄປຊອກຢບອນທແຫງ ແລະ ມຫງຄາປກຄມ ໃນກລະນທ ນຕກ.

ນສາມາດພະເຂາເລນທານ ແລະ ເຮດໃຫຮບ ອອກ ມາຕາງໄດ. ວທປອງກນເລນກອງທຖກ ແລະ ດແມນໃຫໃຊຖງຢາງຄມເລນກອງທານ ແລະ ຮດຢາງກະຕວ.

ຮານກນດມຕາມແຄມຂອງ ເປນຈດທໃຫທານສາ ມາດເບງເຫນວວໄດຢາງກວາງຂ ວາງ, ແຕກລະວງ ຢານຄນອນມາຕ�ເອາອປະກອນຂອງທານ. ຂາພະເຈາມກບອນທບມຄນຫາຍປານໃດ.

າກ ອໂ ນ າກ ງ ຄ�ຖາມທຄນມກຈະຖາມຂອຍເລອຍໆກຽວກບການຖາຍຮບຟາຜາ ແມນກຽວກບອປະກອນ ວາໃຊອປະກອນໃດໄດແດ.

ເຖງແມນວາເຮາສາມາດຖາຍຮບຟາຜາໂດຍໃຊກອງຢໄອໂຟນ ຫ ກອງຖາຍຮບທວໆໄປ, ແຕການໃຊກອງຈ�ພວກນນ ຈະຍາກກວາການໃຊກອງ i ital in le ens efle ( ). ໂທລະສບ ແລະ ກອງທວໆໄປ ສວນຫາຍເໝາະກບການຖາຍວດໂອພະ ຍ, ເພາະຫກໆ ແລວ ກອງຈ�ພວກນແມນບມ manual focus ຫ ການຕງຄາແບບ manual ອນໆ.

ອາດຈະມ apps ສ�ລບ smartp ones ຈ�ນວນໜງທສາມາດຊວຍໄດ. ຖາທານບມກອງ ເອງ ທານສາມາດຢມໝກໄດ.

ຂາຕງກອງທດ ແມນມຄວາມສ�ຄນເທາໆກນກບກອງຖາຍຮບ. ຖາຂາຕງກອງແຮງຮບນ�ໜກໄດຫາຍຂນ ຄນນະພາບກຈະດຂນ.

ການ າ ບປບໂຟກສ ແລະ ຕງຄາດວຍມ (manual). ທານອາດຈະຢາກຖາຍພາບທດລອງກອນ ກອນທຈະເກດຟາຜາ ເພອໃຫແນໃຈວາທກຢາງອອກມາດ. ການຕງຄາກອງໃຫເກງ ຕອງໄດຜານ ການ ກ ນເປນເວລາດນ, ສະນນ ໃຫທານອອກໄປເລາະຖາຍຮບເລອຍໆ ແລະ ລອງຖາຍຮບ ຫາຍເທາທຈະຫາຍໄດ.

ເຄດລບຕນຕ ຂອງການຖາຍຮບພາບຟາ ານ ແມນການໃຊເວລາ ເປດຊອງຮບແສງ ດນໆ (lon e posure times) - ກຄໄລຍະເວລາທຊດເຕຂອງກອງເປດຢ - ເພອຖາຍເອາສາຍຟາຜາຫາຍໆສາຍໃນຮບດຽວ.

ຮບຂອງທານອາດຈະອອກມາມດໃນຕອນທບມຟາຜາ. ແສງຈາກຟາຜາ ແມນຈະແຈງຫາຍ ແລະ ຈະກໃຫເກດຄວາມສະຫວາງຂນໃນເຟຣມ.

ຮບພາບຈ�ພວກນແມນຖກໃຈຂາພະເຈາ ຫາຍ ເພາະຂາພະເຈາສາມາດນງດມເບຍລາວ ໃນຂະນະ ທກອງກເຮດວຽກຖາຍຮບຂອງມນເອງ!

ເມອໄດຍນສຽງ າ ອງ, ຄນສວນຫາຍຈະເຂາໄປພກເຊາຢພາຍໃນບານເ ອນ. ແຕກມບາງຄນ ທ າວຈບກອງ າຍ ບ ເພອມງໜາໄປ າຍ ບພາບຕອນ າຜາ. ສະຕເຟນ ຄບເປ, ຊາງກອງທອາໄສຢວຽງຈນ, ໄດໃ ຄ�ແນະນ�ກຽວກບການ າຍ

ບພາບພະຍ.

ລ າ ອ

ຊ ບພາບທພມ ກມາ ງສະຕເ ນ ເ ຊວ ເ ການກສນ: ສະຕເ ນ າ ບພາບ ມ າຊບ ທວ ະເທດລາວ ແລະ ບລ າກເ ນທງ ດທລາວ າ າກ ບພາບທລາວພມ ກມາ ແ ມນນທການກສນຢ ລາວ ທານສາມາດເ ງຕວຢາງ ນງານ

ງລາວ ທ : 2 2 ແລະ ຕດຕຊ ານ ເ ລ ງລາວທ

ງກ ງ ງນກລາພະ

ກະກຽມ ງແດ: ກອງຖາຍຮບ ດແທແມນ s ຂາຕງກອງທເຊອຖໄດ ຖານສ�ຮອງ. ຖານກອງມກຈະໝດໄວ ເວລາຖາຍຮບແບບ lon e posure (ເປດຊອງຮບແສງດນໆ) ເມໂມລ ຄາດ ທມຄວາມຈ�ພຽງພ ແລະ ມເສມໄວຖາເປນໄປໄດ. ທານອາດ ຈະຕອງຖາຍຫາຍຮບ ກວາຈະໄດຮບທຖກໃຈ. ຜາເຊດເລນ. 2 3

SABAIDEE COVERwords Ian Lacey

ພະລງແຫງການຖບລດ

ໃນລາວ,ລດຈກຖໄດວາເປນເຈາຖະໜນ.ບນດານກທອງທຽວສວນ ຫາຍມກຈະເລອກລດຈກເປນທາງເລອກທ�ອດ ເວລາທເຂາເຈາຊອກ ຫາການເດນທາງທນອກເ ອໄປຈາກການຍາງ.

ແຕປດຈບນ ກເຫນໄດວາມຊອງທາງຫາຍຂນ ໃການເລາະເດນທາງຄນພບບນດາຕວເມອງຕາງໆ ແລະ ເຂດຊນນະບດ ພາຍໃນປະເທດ ຜານການຂລດຖບ. ອາດຈະບແມນເລອງງາຍປານໃດແຕຜນຕອບ ແທນແມນຖວາຄມຄາ ແລະ ພເສດຫາຍ.

ຂເລາະລຽບໄປຕາມວດວາອາຮາມແລະຕະຫາດຕາງໆໃນຕວເມອງ ວຽງຈນ. ໄປແວະຊມນ�ຕກຕາດຕາງໆທຫວງພະບາງ. ຂລດໄປຕາມ ທາງດນແດງຢເຂດຊນນະບດຢແຂວງອນໆ. ບວາທານຈະຂລດຖບ ຢໃສ, ລດຖບຂອງທານຈະນ�ທານໄປໃກຊດຂນກບບນດາສະຖານທ ແສງ ສ ສຽງ ຂອງລາວ.

ວາລະສານ ສະບາຍດ ຈະນ�ພານກຖບລດຜກາຫານໄປສບນດາທວ ທດທສດ ພອມທງທາງເລອກຕາງໆສ�ລບທານທຕອງການເດນທາງ ເອງນ�.

In Laos, the motorcycle is king of the road. It’s often the first means of transport travellers turn to when seeking out the path less-trodden.

But there is growing opportunity to explore the country’s towns, cities and countryside by bicycle. It’s not always easy, but the rewards are unique.

Glide between temples and bustling markets in Vientiane. Visit the cascading waterfalls of Luang Prabang. Hit the dirt roads out in the provinces. Wherever you ride it, your bicycle will bring you closer to the sights, smells and sounds of Laos.

Here, Sabaidee Magazine guides you through some of the best tours and DIY options for the intrepid cyclist.

ຄນພບບອນມະຫດສະຈນໃນລາວໂດຍການຂລດຖບ

Pedal PowerDISCOVERING THE WONDERS

Pedal PowerDISCOVERING THE WONDERS

Pedal PowerOF LAOS BY BICYCLE

Biking on the banks of the Nam Tha River. Photo courtesy Phouiu Travel.

2 6

LIFE From THE SADDLEFrom Phongsaly to Attapeu, Xayaboury to Huaphan, Laos offers social and environmental diversity unparalleled in Southeast Asia. Protected parks, archaeological ruins, remote volcanic lakes, legendary rivers and royal cities abound.

In Vientiane and Luang Prabang, new and innovative bike tours are cropping up to guide visitors through the activities that make up everyday life in aos. n regional centres, tourist offices and travel companies take groups out of town into rural areas where traditional lifestyles persist, away from the rush and clamour of the cities.

ບວາຈະເດນທາງຈາກຜງສາລ ຫາ ອດຕະປ, ຫ ຈາກໄຊຍະບລ ຫາ ຫວພນ, ປະເທດລາວແມນເຕມໄປດວຍຄວາມອດມສມບນ ທາງດານສງແວດລອມ ແລະ ສງຄມອນຫາກຫາຍ ແລະ ໂດດເດນ ໃນອາຊຕາເວນອອກສຽງໃຕ, ບວາ ຈ ະ ເ ປ ນ ປາ ສ ະ ວ ນ ແ ຫງ ຊ າ ດ , ຊ າ ກ ວດ ຖ ບ ຮ າ ນ ອນ ເ ກາ ແ ກ, ບງທເກດຈາກພເຂາໄຟ, ແມນ�ອນເປນຕ�ນານ ແລະ ເມອງເກາສະໄໝກະສດ.

ປດຈບນ ຢນະຄອນຫວງວຽງຈນ ແລະ ຫວງພະບາງ ໄດເກດມທວລດຖບແປກໃໝ ຂນມາຢາງຫວງຫາຍ ໂດຍບນດາທວດງກາວນ ແມນນ�ພານກທອງທຽວ ໄປເລາະຊມກດຈະກ� ແລະ ການດ�ລງຊວດໃນແຕລະມ ຂອງປະຊາຊນລາວ. ສວນໃນຕວເມອງ, ບນດາຫອງການທວ ແລະ ບລສດທອງທຽວ ກໄດພາກມນກ ທອງທຽວອອກໄປສນອກເມອງ ຫາເຂດຊນນະບດ.

ຊວດເທງອານລດ

GEARING UpOf course, you can always do it yourself. Skip the organised tour and take a leap with family or friends. All you need is a bicycle (along with a support car if you want to bridge bigger distances), plenty of water and a sense of adventure.

It could be a ride along the banks of the Mekong, a day trip to Vang Vieng or a multi-day journey to a place you've never been before.

The bicycle is a disarming mode of transport. You’re bound to run into in uisitive locals and find curiosity in things only inspired from the saddle.

ທານສາມາດກະກຽມເອງໄດແນນອນ ຂພຽງແຕທານມລດຖບ (ຫ ລດໃ ໄວຊວຍເ ອ ໃນຍາມທເດນທາງໄລຍະໄກຫາຍ), ກຽມນ�ໄວຫາຍໆ ແລະ ມຄວາມຮກມກໃນການຜະຈນໄພ.

ທານສາມາດຂລດຖບໄປຕາມແຄມແມນ�ຂອງ, ຖບລດໜງມໄປວງວຽງ, ຫ ເດນທາງຫາຍມ ໄປບອນທທານບເຄຍໄປມາກອນ.

ກະກຽມອປະກອນຕາງໆ

On the road from Luang Prabang to Pak Beng.

Photo Mikel Lizarralde.

2 7

VIENTIANE‘VIENTIANE INSIDE OUT’ WITH VIENTIANE BYCYCLE Run by Aline van der Meulen, an enthusiastic Dutch expat living in Laos for over 10 years, Vientiane ByCycle is one of the newest and best-organised city tours you’ll find.

The Vientiane Inside Out tour is a thorough seven-to-eight-hour roam around the capital’s most scenic, charming and iconic sites. The tour perfectly mixes history with city life, spending as much time pointing out the houses of former colonial rulers as it does visiting Buddhist monasteries and atching fishermen cast nets into the Mekong. he better kno n sights such as Patuxay, That Luang, Wat Ong Teu and Wat Sisaket will also feature on the 35-40km ride.

What makes Aline’s tour special is that 80 per cent of the cycling is done on dirt roads, away from the noise of busier thoroughfares.

The tour costs 550,000 kip per person and includes bikes, water, lunch and entrance fees. Minimum rider age is 10 and it’s suitable for all fitness levels.

W: www.vientianebycycle.com, T: +856 205 55812337, E: aline@vientianebycycle.com

ientiane cle ແມນບລຫານໂດຍ ອາລນ ວນ ເດ ມເລນ ເຊງເປນຊາວໂຮນລງຜກະຕລລນ ທອາໄສຢລາວມາເປນເວລາກວາ 10 ປ. ientiane cle ແມນໜງໃນບນດາທວໃນເມອງ ທໃໝທສດ ແລະ ຈດເປນລະບບດທສດ ເທາທທານຈະຫາໄດ.

ທວ ientiane nsi e ut ແມນທວ 7-8 ຊວໂມງທພາທານເດນທາງໄປໄດຢາງທວເຖງ ໃນການເລາະຊມ ຕວເມອງວຽງຈນອນສວຍງາມ ແລະ ສະຖານທອນເປນເອກະລກ. ທວດງກາວແມນປະສມປະສານປະຫວດສາດກບຊວດໃນເມອງ ໂດຍໃຊເວລາທອງທຽວເລາະຊມບານເກາ ແຕສະໄໝຫວເມອງຂນ, ຢຽມຢາມວດວາອາຮາມ, ແລະ ເບງຊາວນາຫວານແຫ ຫາປາຢນ�ຂອງ. ນອກນນແລວ ກມການເລາະຊມສະຖານທທອງທຽວທມຊສຽງເຊນ ປະຕໄຊ, ພຣະທາດຫວງ, ວດອງຕ ແລະ ວດສສະເກດ ຢໃນທວລດຖບໄລຍະ 5-40ກມ ນ.

ສງທເຮດໃຫທວອາລນພເສດ ແມນການໃຊເວລາ 80ເປເຊນ ຖບລດຖບໄປຕາມທາງດນແດງ.

ລາຄາທວແມນ 550,000 ກບຕຄນ ເຊງລາຄານລວມລດຖບ, ນ�, ອາຫານທຽງ ແລະ ຄາເຂາຊມສະຖານທຕາງໆ. ຜທຈະຂລດຖບແມນຕອງມອາຍ 10 ປຂນໄປ ແລະ ທວນແມນເໝາະສ�ລບທກລະດບຄວາມສມບນຂອງຮາງກາຍ.

W: www. ientianeb c cle.com, T: 856 205 55812 7, E: aline ientianeb c cle.com

ນະຄອນຫວງວຽງຈນientiane nsi e ut

ກບ ientiane cle

VIENTIANE

Where better to start than in Vientiane and Luang Prabang? Laos’ most popular city destinations have a range of tours available to visitors. Swap the tuk-tuk for two wheels and get out amongst it.

URBAN EXPERIENCES

ບມບ ນ ກແລວ ທ ະເ ນບ ນເລມຕນການເ ນທາງ ດກວາ ນະ ນ ວງວ ງ ນ ແລະ ວງພະບາງ ຢສ ງເ ງ ດ າ າ ທາງທ

ບ ວາມນ ມສງສດ ງລາວນ ແ ນເຕມ ດວ ທວ ນ າກ າ ວ ນກທ ງທ ວ ເລ ກ ນ າກ ລດຕກຕກ ມາ ລດ ບສ ງກງ

ແລວ ກເ ນທາງກນດກວາ

ປະສບການໃນເມອງ At a Vientiane temple. Photo courtesy Vientiane ByCycle.

Photo Phoonsab Thevongsa.

At Patuxay with Vientiane ByCycle.

2 8

LUANG PRABANG‘CITY EXPLORER’ WITH TIGER TRAILSTiger Trails – based in Luang Prabang since 2000 – presents a one-day tour of the remarkable heritage town and its surroundings.

The day trip begins at the morning market, where local people gather to trade and chat, before moving onto the National Museum and Wat Mai, a temple showcasing unique Luang-Prabang-style architecture. The grace and elegance of the city is highlighted by the routes taken between stops, where you’ll pedal a longside the meandering Mekong River and stop for food in secluded and wholesome Lao cafes.

In early evening, you’ll be led to Phousi Mountain, where – if you’re lucky – one of Luang Prabang’s trademark sunsets will cast closure to your day.

The price is US$70 per person and includes bicycles, entrance fees, lunch and minivan transfer. Private and group tours are available.

A: Ban Phon Peng, Luang PrabangW: www.laos-adventures.comT: +856 71 252655E: info@laos-adventures.com

i er rails ມສ�ນກງານຕງຢຫວງພະບາງແຕປ 2000 ແລະ ນ�ສະເ ທວ 1 ມ ເລາະຊມເມອງ ມລະດກໂລກອນໂດດເດນ ແລະ ບລເວນອອມຮອບເມອງ.

ທວ 1 ມນ ແມນເລມຈາກຕະຫາດເຊາ ເຊງເປນບອນທໄທເມອງຫວງມາເຕາໂຮມກນ ຄາຂາຍເຄອງ ແລະ ໂອລມກນ. ຈາກນນ ກເດນທາງໄປຫພພດຕະພນແຫງຊາດ ແລະ ວດໃໝ ເຊງເປນວດທສະແດງໃຫເຫນເຖງສະຖາປດຕະຍະກ�ອນເປນເອກະລກຂອງເມອງຫວງພະບາງ.

ໃນຕອນຄອຍແລງ, ທວຈະນ�ທານຂນໄປວດພສ ເຊງວາຖາທານໂຊກດ ທານກຈະເຫນຕາເວນຕກ ດນຢເທງພສ ອນເປນສນຍະລກຂອງຫວງພະບາງ ປດທາຍມຂອງທານໄປຢາງສວຍງາມ.

ລາຄາແມນ 70 ໂດລາຕຄນ ເຊງລວມຄາລດຖບ, ຄາເຂາຊມສະຖານທຕາງໆ, ອາຫານທຽງ ແລະ ລດຕຮບສງ. ທານສາມາດຈອງເປນທວສວນຕວ ຫ ເປນກມກໄດ.

A: ບານໂພນແພງ, ຫວງພະບາງ, W: www.laos-a entures.com, T: 856 71 252655, E: info laos-a entures.com

ຫວງພະບາງit plorer ກບ i er rails

Wat Monorom in Luang Prabang. Photo courtesy Tiger Trails.

Wat Xieng Thong. Photo courtesy Tiger Trails.

2 9

VIENTIANE‘VIENTIANE CYCLING RETREAT’ WITH GREEN DISCOVERY LAOSThis one-day cycling excursion sets you on a route from the city towards Phou Khao Khouey National Park. Beginning the day at Tanmixay village (after tuk-tuk transfer from Vientiane to the village), you’ll cycle past rice fields and a landscape of true serenity that feels a million miles a ay from the city. As the mountains of Phou Khao Khouey edge ever closer, you reach the Nam Ngum River and catch a ferry 30 minutes downstream.

After lunch by a lotus pond in Thakai village, another couple of hours of pedalling takes the group into green and fertile territory where country life ambles by. A tuk-tuk returns the riders to Vientiane after around seven hours of cycling.

Price varies depending on the number in the group but includes bikes, picnic and lunch, water, and tuk-tuk transfers.

W: www.greendiscoverylaos.comT: +856 21 264 528E: via website.

Do you fancy riding into the countryside amongst the paddy fields, where the chirping birds are your closest companions? Want to experience rural Lao life at the slow pace at which it’s lived? Here are some options to escape to the countryside, just outside the major cities and regional towns.

OUT OF TOWNນອກເມອງ

ທານ ນເ ງການ ລດ ບ ເລາະລ ບ ຕາມເ ດຊນນະບດ ານທງນາ ນ ວ ສດງດງາມ ພ ມກບ ນສ ງນກ ງ ບ ເ ນ ບ ພວກເ າມທາງເລ ກ າກ

າ ສ ລບທານທຕ ງການ ທ ວນ ກເ ງຢເ ດຊນນະບດ

ການເດນທາງກບລດຖບ 1 ມນ ຈະພາທານໄປຕາມເສນທາງ ຈາກໃນເມອງ ໄປຫາປາສະ ວນແຫງຊາດພເຂາຄວາຍ. ເລມຕນທບານຕານມໄຊ (ພາຍຫງທລດ ຕກຕກໄປຮບທານຢໃນເມອງແລວມາສງຢບານນ), ທານຈະຂລດຖບຜານທງນາ ແລະ ທດສະນຍະພາບອນສວຍງາມ ງຽບສະ ບອຫ ຈນເຮດໃຫທານຮສກຄວາມນຢໄກຈາກ ໃນເມອງຫາຍ. ເມອໃກເຂາຮອດຕນພເຂາຄວາຍ, ທານກຈະມາເຖງແມນ�ງມ ແລະ ຂເຮອ 0 ນາທລອງນ�ລງມາ.

ພາຍຫງກນເຂາທຽງຢໜອງບວ ຢບານທາໄກ ກສບຕຂລດຖບປະມານຊວໂມງສອງ ຊວໂມງ ກຈະມາຮອດທງ າອນຂຽວສດງດງາມ. ຈາກນນ ລດຕກຕກກຈະມາຮບ ບນດາຜຂລດຖບ ເພອກບຄນສຕວເມອງວຽງຈນໂດຍໃຊເວລາທງໝດໃນການຖບລດ ຖບປະມານ 7 ຊວໂມງ.

ສວນລາຄານນແມນແຕກຕາງກນໄປ ຂນກບຈ�ນວນຄນໃນກມ,ແຕລາຄາແມນລວມ ລດຖບ, ປກນກ ແລະ ເຂາສວາຍ, ນ�, ແລະ ຕກຕກຮບສງ.

W: www. reen isco er laos.com, T: 856 21 264 528, E: ຜານເວບໄຊ.

ນະຄອນຫວງວຽງຈນ

VANG VIENG DIYVANG VIENG - PHOUKHAM CAVE -BLUE LAGOON - VANG VIENGThis great route is based on a trail that leads from the centre of town to Phoukham Cave and onto the Blue Lagoon on a scenic route weaving past sheer karst pinnacles.

From Vang Vieng, head south along the river until you come to a wooden bridge 5,000 kip to cross . fter this you’ll cycle through rice fields and small villages, passing women selling woven fabrics. After a few kilometres you’ll see the sign for Phoukham Cave (10,000 kip), a dark cavern replete with stalactites and stalagmites. Another 3-4km along, the Blue Lagoon is a calming place to cool off and grab some coconut juice to rehydrate.

ll along the ay farmers tend their fields, children play on the entirely dirt road and shouts of ‘sabaidee’ come from the houses.

Bike rental is popular in Vang Vieng and costs about 30,000 kip for the day. Most outlets will include a map, phone number and tyre repair kit.

ເສນທາງນ ແມນໄປຕາມຫນທາງຍາງ ຈາກຕວເມອງວງວຽງ ໄປຫາຖ�ປຄ� ແລະ ສບຕໄປ ບລ ລາກນ.

ຈາກວງວຽງ, ມງໜາໄປທາງທດໃຕຕາມແມນ� ຈນມາຮອດຂວໄມ (ຄາຂາມ 5,000 ກບ). ຈາກນນ ທານຈະຂລດຖບຜານທງນາ ແລະ ໝບານນອຍໆ ໂດຍຈະຂກາຍ ບນດາແມຍງທກ�ລງຂາຍຜາທເຂາເຈາຕ�ແລວ. ພາຍຫງບເທາໃດກໂລແມດ ທານຈະເຫນປາຍຖ�ປຄ� (10,000 ກບ). ຫງຈາກນນປະມານ -4ກມ ກຈະມາຮອດ ບລ ລາກນ ເຊງເປນບອນງຽບສະ ບ ໄວພກຜອນຢອນໃຈ ພອມດມນ�ໝາກພາວສດ ເພອເຕມພະລງ ແລະ ແກຫວນ�.

ລດຖບໃຫເຊາແມນເ ປນທນຍມຫາຍໃນວງວຽງ ແລະ ລາຄາຕກຢປະມານ 0 , 0 0 0 ກ ບ ຕມ. ບອ ນ ໃ ຫເ ຊາ ສວ ນ ຫ າ ຍ ຈ ະ ມ ແ ຜ ນ ທ, ເ ບ ໂ ທ ແ ລ ະ

ອປະກອນສ�ລບສອມແປງຢາງລດ.

ວງວຽງ - ເດນທາງເອງ ( )ວງວຽງ - ຖ�ປຄ� - ບລລາກນ - ວງວຽງ

‘Vientiane Cycling Retreat’ ນະຄອນຫວງວຽງຈນ‘Vientiane Cycling Retreat’ ນະຄອນຫວງວຽງຈນກບ reen isco er aos‘Vientiane Cycling Retreat’ ກບ reen isco er aos‘Vientiane Cycling Retreat’

Karst mountains near Luang Prabang. Photo courtesy Tiger Trails.

3 0

LUANG PRABANG‘MOUNTAIN BIKE LUANG PRABANG’ WITH TIGER TRAILSWith the option of three different mountain bike tours out of the city, Tiger Trails is well placed to guide you on a thrilling and adventure-packed day on Luang Prabang’s doorstep.

An easy 35km circuit, a more advanced 50km course and a challenging 35km day are on offer. The tours include visits to an ‘elephant village’ and ethnic settlements off the main tourist trail, as well as a motorboat trip to Tad Sae waterfall between August and January. On the 35km ‘challenging’ tour, you’ll ride single track, splash through rivers and go off-road in the name of discovery.

Each tour is four hours long and includes your professional guide, bikes, water and food. Prices start at US$54.

A: Ban Phon Peng, Luang Prabang W: www.laos-adventures.comT: +856 71 252655 E: info@laos-adventures.com

i er rails ມາພອມກບ ທາງເລອກຂອງທວລດຖບວບາກ ອອກໄປນອກເມອງ ເຊງພອມ ຈະນ�ພາທານໄປສການຜະຈນໄພອນໜາຕນເຕນ ຢໃກຫວງພະບາງ. ທວລວມມ ເສນທາງງາຍ ໄລຍະ 5 ກມ, ທາງຍາກຂນ ໄລຍະ 50 ກມ, ແລະ ທາງທາທາຍ ໄລຍະ 5 ກມ. ທວດງກາວແມນລວມມການເດນທາງໄປຢຽມຢາມ ໝບານຊາງ ແລະ ບອນທຄນຊນເຜາຍາຍຖນຖານໄປຕງຢ ເຊງອອກມານອກເສນທາງຫກທນກທອງທຽວໄປ. ຖາເດນທາງໃນຊວງເດອນສງຫາ ຫາ ມງກອນ ທານຈະໄດຂເຮອຈກ ໄປຫາຕາດແສ. ສ�ລບທວ ທາທາຍ ໄລຍະ 5ກມ ນນ, ທານຈະໄດເດນທາງຜານແມນ� ແລະ ຜານທາງວບາກ.

ແຕລະທວແມນມໄລຍະເວລາ 4 ຊວໂມງ ແລະ ລາຄາແມນລວມມ ຄາຜນ�ທຽວທມຄວາມຊ�ນານ, ລດຖບ, ນ� ແລະ ອາຫານ. ລາຄາເລມຕນທ 54 ໂດລາ.

A : ບາ ນ ໂ ພ ນ ແ ພ ງ , ຫ ວ ງ ພ ະ ບ າ ງ , W : w w w . l a o s - a e n t u r e s . c o m , T: 856 71 252655, E: info laos-a entures.com

ຫວງພະບາງountain ike uan raban

ກບ i er rails

LUANG NAMTHA‘ONE-DAY TOWN AND VALLEY TOUR’ WITH LUANG NAMTHA TOURISM AUTHORITYIf you reach the beautiful and isolated Luang Namtha, consider a day on two wheels in the communities around. The local tourism authority runs day trips into the surrounding valley and visits villages famous for their handicrafts and lao lao whiskey, which you have to try.

The 30km ride also stops at the Nam Dee waterfall and That Poum Pouk pagoda, from which you get a commanding view of the uang amtha valley. he trail difficulty is moderate and includes some short but steep climbs. Bikes, lunch, water and entrance fees are covered in the price.

W: www.luangnamtha-tourism-laos.comT: +856 86321047E: info@laos-cbt.org

ຖາທານໄດມໂອກາດມາຮອດແຂວງຫວງນ�ທາທສວຍງາມ ແລະ ໂດດດຽວແລວ ກຢາກ ແນະນ�ໃຫທານລອງໃຊເວລາຈກມໜງ ຂລດຖບສອງກງ ເລາະເບງຊມຊນຢອອມແອມເມອງ. ທາງທອງທຽວແຂວງເພນຈດທວ 1 ມ ເພອນ�ພານກທອງທຽວໄປເລາະຕາມຮອມພອອມແອມ ແລະ ຢຽມຢາມໝບານ ທມຊສຽງທາງດານຫດຖະກ� ແລະ ການຜະລດ ເ າລາວ.

ໃນການເດນທາງໄລຍະ 0ກມນ, ທານຍງຈະໄດແວະຊມນ�ຕກຕາດນ�ດ ແລະ ພະທາດປມປກ ເຊງ ຢບອນນ ທານຈະແນມເຫນທວທດຂອງຮອມພຫວງນ�ທາ. ຄວາມຍາກຂອງ ເສນທາງນແມນຢໃນລ�ດບປານກາງ ແລະ ມບາງບອນໄດຂນພໃນໄລຍະສນ ແຕຖວາຊນຢ. ລາຄາແມນລວມມລດຖບ, ອາຫານທຽງ, ນ� ແລະ ຄາເຂາຊມສະຖານທຕາງໆ.

W: www.luan namt a-tourism-laos.com T: 856 86 21047, E: info laos-cbt.or

ຫວງນ�ທາne- a own an alle our

ກບ ອງການທອງທຽວແຂວງຫວງນ�ທາ

Running into an elephant on the road. Photo courtesy Tiger Trails.

Passing through a village. Photo courtesy Tiger Trails.

Biking through a stream. Photo courtesy Tiger Trails.

The tour group by the Nam Tha River.Photo courtesy Phouiu Travel

3 1

LUANG PRABANG TO PAKBENGThis four-day ride takes the cyclist from west to east across the country’s rugged north estern provinces. he road is relatively flat and there are plenty of places to stop and stay the night along the way.

Out of Luang Prabang, the road snakes towards Pakmong (112km mark) in line with the Mekong and Nam Ou rivers. As the mountains close in some steep ascents appear and towns become sparse. Restaurants serving shrimp and som tam with tamarind are a welcome reward on the 15km downhill into Oudomxay (200km mark) – a large town, with many places to stay.

The remaining two days to Pakbeng are gentle and the road is well paved for most of its length. Children will stop and ask where you’re going, and men beckon you into their family restaurants for noodle soup. The landscape is deep green and peaceful. You have reached the heart of the country.

Distance: 340kmTime: Four daysTerrain: Primarily gentle with some rolling hills; nothing like Vang Vieng-Luang PrabangHighlight: Suphailin Restaurant in Oudomxay (big portions, low prices)Getting Back: A slow-boat travels between Pakbeng and Luang Prabang

Once the sole preserve of tougher motorbikes, some of Laos’ more remote areas have now been unlocked for cyclists thanks to improved infrastructure and better communications. With a little planning and flexible time, there are wonderful regions to pedal through at your leisure with next to no traffic to worry about. Below are two routes that can be completed unsupported or with a car in tow for the tougher sections.

INTO THE WILDເຂາສຄວາມວບາກ

ຢບາງ ງເ ດທ າງ ສ ກ ກຢລາວ ດ ບນ ນກ ລດ ບກສາມາດເ ນທາງ ດ ເ ງແລວ ເ ງກຕ ງ ບ ຈກບການ ບ ງທາງດານພນ ານໂ ງລາງ ແລະ ມມະນາ ມທດ ນ າ ການເ ນທາງລມນ ແ ນ ະກ ບມ 2 ເ ນທາງ ເ ງທານສາມາດສ ເລດການເ ນທາງ ໂ ບມຕວຊວ

ະເ ນທາງ ກບລດ ວລາກ ຢບາງບ ນທ າກ າ ກ

ການເດນທາງ 4 ມນ ແມນຈະພາບນດານກຖບລດຖບ ຈາກພາກຕາເວນຕກ ໄປສພາກຕາເວນອອກ ຜານບນດາແຂວງທມຫນທາງເປນຂມຂະລກຂະລກ ໃນພາກຕາເວນຕກສຽງເ ອຂອງລາວ. ຫນທາງສວນຫາຍຈະເປນທາງພຽງ ແລະ ຢຕາມທາງ ກຈະມບອນໄວສ�ລບຢດພກເຊາ ຫ ຄາງຄນ.

ເມອອອກຈາກຫວງພະບາງ, ທາງໄປຫາປາກມອງ (ຫກ 112 ກມ) ຈະຄດຄຽວ ແລະ ເລາະລຽບໄປຕາມທາງນ�ຂອງ ແລະ ນ�ອ. ເມອໃກເຂາຮອດພ ກຈະປະກດເຫນຄອຍສງຊນ ແລະ ບນດາເມອງກຈະເລມບາງຕາ ແລະ ຫາງກນຂນ. ເມອຂລງພ 15 ກມ ມາຮອດແຂວງອດມໄຊ (ຫກ 200 ກມ) ກຈະພບຮານອາຫານທຂາຍກງ ແລະ ຕ�ໝາກຫງໃສໝາກຂາມແຊບໆ ໄວຕອນຮບທານ.

ສວນ 2 ມທເ ອຢປາກແບງ ແມນບໜກໜວງຫາຍ ແລະ ທາງເກອບສວນໃ ກເປນທາງປຮາບພຽງດ.

ລ ະທາງ: 40 ກມລ ະເວລາ: 4 ມວາມວບາກ: ສວນໃ ກບໜກຫາຍ ແລະ ມເນນເຂາເປນບາງບອນ ແຕບຄກນກບທາງວງວຽງ-

ຫວງພະບາງສງໂ ດເ ນ: ຮານອາຫານ ສໄພລນ ຢ ອດມໄຊ (ໄດຫາຍ ແລະ ລາຄາບແພງ)ເດນທາງກບມາ: ເຮອລອງລະຫວາງປາກແບງ ຫາ ຫວງພະບາງ

ຫວງພະບາງ ຫາ ປາກແບງ

Women on the road to Oudomxay. Photo Jean-Louis Potier.

A boat dock in Pak Beng. Photo Clay Gilliland.

3 2

CHAMPASAK TO PAKSE VIA BOLAVEN PLATEAUIf you want to ride from the plains into the mist-veiled highlands of Laos, this loop from Champasak to Pakxong and back to Pakse is a must.

While your first leg to ak ong 75km mark ill be tough as you gradually climb to 1,300m, the cool climate of the plateau will make for a sweet reprieve. Along the way you’ll pass blacksmiths turning out knives and lots of roadside stalls selling soups, fruits and cool drinks. Just before finishing the climb, you’ll pass the t in falls of ad Fane (5,000 kip).

In Pakxong you’ll be able to explore the coffee culture and many farms before heading 40km downhill to Tadlo Waterfall. Before leaving, make sure to try the sweet dough mixed with sesame seeds in the market. It’s a straight run back to Pakse on an asphalt road from Tadlo, making for an interesting three-day ride.

Distance: 250kmTime: Three days (two if you begin from Pakse)Terrain: ountainous until the olaven Plateau and at until the descent to PakseHighlight: Learning about community coffee cultivation

ຖາທານຢາກຂລດຖບຈາກບອນຮາບພຽງໄປຫາເຂດພສງຂອງລາວ, ທາງຈາກຈ�ປາສກ ຫາ ປາກຊອງ ແລະ ກບມາປາກເຊນ ແມນບອນທທານຕອງໄປໃຫໄດເລຍ.

ເຖງວາການຂລດຖບໄປປາກຊອງ (ຫກ 75 ກມ) ທ�ອດຈະຍາກຫາຍ ເນອງຈາກທານຈະຄອຍໆ ຂປນຂນພສງ 1, 00ມ, ແຕວາອາກາດເ ນໆຢເທງພພຽງ ຈະຊວຍໃຫທານພກຜອນໄດດຢ. ເມອຂໄປເລອຍໆ ທານຈະເຫນຊາງຕເ ກຂາຍມດຢຕາມທາງ ແລະ ກມຮານແຄມທາງຂາຍແກງ, ໝາກໄມ ແລະ ເຄອງດມເ ນໆ. ກອນທຈະສນສດການຂປນຂນພ ທານຈະຂກາຍນ�ຕກແ ດ ຕາດຟານ (5,000 ກບ).

ຢປາກຊອງ ທານສາມາດເລາະຊມເບງສວນກາເຟຕາງໆ ກອນທຈະຂລງຄອຍມາ 40 ກມ ໄປຫານ�ຕກຕາດເລາະ. ຈາກນນ ຈາກຕາດເລາະ ກ ຈະເປນ ທາງ ຊ ກບໄປ ຫາ ປາກ ເຊຕາມທາງຢາງ, ສນສດການເດນທາງອນເປນຕາໜາດງດດໃຈ ເປນໄລຍະເວລາ ມ.

ລ ະທາງ: 250 ກມລ ະເວລາ: ມ (2 ມຖາເລມຈາກປາກເຊ)ວາມວບາກ: ເປນທາງພ ຈນມາຮອດພພຽງບລະເວນ ແລະ ທາງພຽງເມອລງມາຫາປາກເຊ

ສງໂ ດເ ນ: ຮຽນຮກຽວກບການປກກາເຟຂອງຊມຊນ

ຈ�ປາສກ ຫາ ປາກເຊ ຜານພພຽງບລະເວນ

Coffee beans on the Bolaven Plateau. Photo Prince Roy.

Bicycle rental in Pakse. Photo Steven Belcher.

Photo Francois Bianco.

3 3

BICYCLESWhen renting a bicycle, make sure that the tyres are pumped fully. Also check that the gears change smoothly as they will be important on climbs. If you’re going away from towns and villages, take the phone number of the shop that rented the bike in case of emergency.

ADVICE FOR THE RIDE

ຄ�ແນະນ�ໃນການຂລດຖບ

ເມອທານເຊາລດຖບ, ຕອງກວດສອບໃຫຄກແນວາ ໄດສບກງລດເຕມແລວ. ພອມນນ ກໃຫກວດວາເກຍປຽນໄດສະດວກ ເພາະມນຈະສ�ຄນຫາຍໃນເວລາທທານ ຂປນຂນພ. ຖາທານຈະຂອອກຈາກຕວເມອງ ແລະ ໝບານ ໃຫເອາເບໂທຂອງຮານເຊາ ລດຖບໄວ ໃນກລະນສກເສນ.

ລດຖບ

GEARIf you are a DIY fan and want to hit the open road alone or with a group, you’ll need a few essential items, including:

Cycling clothes shorts, shirts, gloves, rain acket etc. Racks and pannier bags to store e uipment hree four litres of ater storage ent and sleeping gear if you ant to camp uncture repair kit nack food

Take a look at adventurecycling.org/resources/how-to-department/bicycle-travel-basics/what-to-take-and-how-to-pack/ for a more detailed list.

SEASONCycling in the wet season is very different to cycling in the dry season. Be prepared for both extremes. Muddy roads, heavy rain and high winds can sweep in through the May-October wet season. Riding is easier in the dry season from November-April when it is generally cooler, especially at altitude.

BIKE RENTAL AND PURCHASEPVO, Nokeokoummane Rd, Vientiane: Close to the riverfront, PVO offer standard city bikes for 10,000 kip per day.

Sabaidee Luang Prabang, Sisavangvong Rd (opposite Wat Mai), Luang Prabang: City and mountain bikes for rent. Prices start at US$2.50 per day.

Top Cycle Zone, Dongpalane Rd (across from D-Mart), Vientiane: Frenchman Willy runs a tight ship at this well-stocked store in the centre of the capital and has a selection of high-quality bikes to purchase. This is a good place to buy repair essentials too.

ຖາທານມກເຮດ ງດວຍຕນເອງ ແລະ ຢາກອອກເດນທາງຄນດຽວ ຫ ກບໝເປນກມ, ທານຈະຕອງໄດມອປະກອນຈ�ເປນຫກໆດງລມນ:

ຊດສ�ລບການຂລດຖບ (ໂສງຂາສນ, ເສອ, ຖງມ, ເສອກນ ນ ແລະ ອນໆ) ຖງຫອຍຕດກບລດຖບ ໄວໃສອປະກອນຕາງໆ ນ� -4 ລດ ເຕນ ແລະ ອປະກອນເຄອງນອນ (ຖາຢາກຕງຄາຍ) ອປະກອນສອມແປງ ເວລາກງລດຮວ ອາຫານຫວາງ

ທານສາມາດເຂາໄປເບງ a enturec clin .or /resources/ ow-to-epartment/bic cle-tra el-basics/w at-to-take-an - ow-to-pack/

ເພອເບງລາຍລະອຽດເພມເຕມ.

ອປະກອນ

ໃນໄລຍະເດອນພດສະພາ ຫາ ຕລາ ເປນລະດ ນ ເຊງກໃຫເກດທາງຂຕມ, ນ ຕກ ໜກ ແ ລ ະ ລມ ແ ຮ ງ . ກ າ ນ ຂລດ ຖ ບ ຈ ະ ງາ ຍ ກ ວາ ໃ ນ ລ ະ ດ ແ ລງ

ລະຫວາງເດອນພະຈກ ຫາ ເມສາ ແລະ ອາກາດກເ ນລງ ໂດຍສະເພາະຢບອນສງ.

ລະດ

ະ ນ ແ ວກມມານ ນະ ນ ວງວ ງ ນ: ຮານ ຢໃກແຄມຂອງ ແລະ ມລດຖບສ�ລບຂໃນເມອງໃຫເຊາ ໃນລາຄາ 10,000 ກບຕມ.

ສະບາ ດ ວງພະບາງ ະ ນສສະ າງວງ ກງກນ າມວດ ວງພະບາງ: ມລດຖບໃນເມອງ ແລະ ລດຖບວບາກໃຫເຊາ. ລາຄາເລມຕນທ 2.50 ໂດລາຕມ.

ະ ນດງ າລານ ກງກນ າມດ-ມາດ ນະ ນ ວງວ ງ ນ: ຮານນຂາຍລດຖບຄນນະພາບສງ. ພອມນນ ກຍງຂາຍອາໄ ລດຖບທຈ�ເປນນ�ອກ.

ລດໃຫເຊາ ຫ ຊ

ລດຖບCrossing the Nam Song in Vang Vieng. Photo Ian Lacey.

3 4

FURTHER AFIELDwords a n d photos M ic h elle L ueh man

I The infinity pool at The River Resort, Pakse. I

THREE DAYS IN CHAMPASAK AND PAKSE

Southern Exposure

Perusing Pakse

The province’s biggest town Pakse is a booming regional trade hub, close to borders with neighbouring Thailand, Cambodia and Vietnam. Industry has taken its toll on the town, which is seeing an in u o oreign or ers an investment

ut e ore you ea out o a se to e lore t e province, there are some hidden gems to look out or e ‘Dao Palace’, as it is locally nicknamed,

is a re li a ren ala e on t e an s o t e Mekong that seems to be continuously under construction.

The River Resort (www.theriverresort-champasak.com) is a arming resort minutes out o a se,

uilt on t e groun s o an or ar elonging to t e ol rovin ial royal amily e resort as a

eauti ul, s ee ing vie o t e e ong, loo ing across to Turtle Island, name a ter its large, roun e oul ers orn at y t e rise an all o t e river e resort is ully organi an set amongst ri e el s e in nity ool i loo s as t oug it ro s rig t off it no e ge is a e nite onus

Accommodation is generally limited in Pakse but overs most re eren es an u gets e area

is low-lying and can be muggy and hot through the day.

In Champasak province in southern Laos, the Mekong runs fast,wide and blue. The area is famous for its three big-ticket attractions: the rich volcanic coffee fields of the olaven Plateau; the ancient temple complex Vat Phou, known as a sister to the UNESCO-listed world heritage site

of Angkor Wat in Cambodia; and the spectacular river archipelago

Si Phan Don – the 4,000 Islands.

3 5

Angkor where?

ile not as amous an a little smaller t an its am o ian sister, Vat Phou is a as inating an eauti ul -re ognise orl eritage site a out a -minute tu tu ri e rom t e a se to n entre

The site is stunning. Ponds are scattered around the grounds, and a artially restore stone al ay in s its ay ast statues o lotus u s

an an ient rangi ani trees t at ave oven t emselves into t e at itsel

e at entres on a in u ertility s rine alle a linga. It is nestled at the ase o Mount Phou Pasak, which was chosen because the mountain’s

natural summit has the same shape as a linga.

e mountain, o ever, offers little rote tion rom t e eat at t is un overe tem le om le , so early-morning vie ing is a vise

o als an religious ilgrims still ors i ere rayers are o ere aily at t e many u ist s rines mall o erings an e ur ase

an le t at one o t e s rines un re s lo to t e site every t o mont s to ors i at a re urring u ist ull-moon estival t at ta es

la e at nig t y t e lig t o lanterns or more in ormation, go to vatphou-champassak.com/en/events/60-festival-de-vat-phu.

Coffee Grounds

ne our rom a se are t e vast, e tin t vol ani lains o t e Bolaven Plateau. Known or its ri agri ulture, iversity o in igenous

tribes and spectacular landscapes, the plateau stret es as ar as t e eye an see an continues into Cambodia.

e lateau ta es its name rom t e aven ethnic minority, who still live here in high numbers.

e area is most amous or its strong, ar offee i gro s on t e slo es o

t e lateau an t e a es in t e area are a testament to that strong bean-growing heritage. Champa Coffee as organi , air-tra e offee or a steal at , i serve in ne ina e ifferent stages o t e offee-

drying process are on display. There’s also a small tea-processing plant, producing white, yello an la varieties ea tasting is ree n t e rig t season you an uy res organi strawberries. Further on is Sinouk Coffee,

i eatures eauti ul mani ure gar ens an a series o ateaus or rent t at are set on t e an s o a small, tum ling river

Take a day to visit the jaw-dropping Tad Lo ater all t gus es over t e li s an

isa ears rom sig t into a natural stone

bowl. You can stay at the nearby Tadlo Lodge and en oy easy ull-

ay an al - ay walks around the

to o t e lateau to visit some o t e

smaller ater alls nly tre to t e to o Tad Suong in the dry season t e et ro s are trea erous, an one small

slip would see you join the cascading water or a m ro

not er our rings you to a series o resettlement villages that are home to members o t e atu, aven, la a an a-oy et ni tribes. In Kok Pong village you can see the su sisten e li estyles o some o t ese eo le

ollo t e ir uit urt er to Tad Lo Senevang, anot er small ut eauti ul ater all ou can have a meal here, or stay at the lodge overlooking the river. The water tumbles gently over smooth rocks, so it’s a great place to join lo al villagers or a ool i

Huay Houne village a atu eaving village is t e last sto on t e loo e eauty an uality o t e materials is ama ing ri es are

lo an money rom sales goes ire tly to the weavers.

Maze on the Mekong i an on, t e , islan s, is an ar i elago o islan s s attere ran omly t roug a vast

se tion o t e e ong raversing t is uni ue lan s a e offers a glim se at tra itional s ing li e e islan s are also ome to reserves or t e ig ly en angere ite ol in

You can take a long one-day trip to Don Daeng, t e rst o t e islan s ile t is is ust a sam le, it may e your est o tion i you are s ort on time e iver esort or t e Champasak district visitor information centre can help you arrange the trip.

Getting There:

ao irlines ies rom ientiane to a se t i e a ay any t en y on rom a se through to Cambodia. Tour guides and drivers can be arranged through Southern Laos Tours. www.southernlaos.net

I A local worships at Vat Phou. I

I Champa's fair trade produce. I

3 6

ສວນກາເເມອອອກມາຈາກປາກເຊໜງຊວໂມງ ທານກຈະມາຮອດທງດນພເຂາໄຟທດບແລວ ຂະໜາດກວາງຂວາງ ຂອງ ພພຽງບລະເວນ. ພພຽງນ ແມນຂນຊທາງດານ ການກະສກ�ອນອດມສມບນ, ຄວາມຫາກຫາຍທາງດານຊນເຜາ, ແລະ ທວທດອນສວຍສດ ງດງາມ, ແລະ ພພຽງບລະເວນ ແມນມຄວາມກວາງຍາວຢຽດ ໄປໄກ ຈນສດສາຍຕາ, ແລະສບຕໄປຈນຮອດກ�ປເຈຍ.

ພພຽງດງກາວ ແມນໄດຊມາຈາກ ຊນເຜາລະເວນ ເຊງປດຈບນ ຊນເຜາດງກາວກຍງອາໄສ ຢບລເວນນ ເປນຈ�ນວນຫວງຫາຍ.

ສະຖານທແຫງນ ແມນມຊສຽງທສດທາງດານໝາກກາເຟ ທເຂມຂນ ແລະ ປກ ເຊງປກຂນຢຕາມເນນຂອງພພຽງ, ແລະ ບນດາຮານກາເຟທມຊສຽງໃນຂງເຂດນນ ແມນພສດໃຫເຫນ ເຖງ ປະເພນການປກກາເຟອນເກາແກທສບທອດກນມາແຕ ດນນານ. ຮານກາເຟຈ�ປາ ມກາເຟທ�ມະຊາດ ແລະ ຄາຂາຍ ຢາງເປນທ� ຈອກລະ 10,000 ກບ ເສບມາໃນຈອກລາຍຄາມ ງາມໆ. ນອກນນ ກມ ຮານກາເຟ ສໜກເຊງມສວນຕບແຕງຢາງ ສວຍງາມ ພອມບນດາເຮອນຕາກອາກາດໃຫເຊາ ໂດຍຕງຢ ຕາມແຄມແມນ�ນອຍໆ.

ເມອທານມາຮອດນແລວ ກຂໃຫແນະນ�ໃຫທານໄປຢຽມຢາມ ນ�ຕກ ຕາດເລາະ ຈກມໜງ. ທານສາມາດພກເຊາຢ ບານພກ ຕາດເລາະ ລອຈ ໃກໆກບຕາດ ແລະ ຈາກນນ ກໃຊເວລາມໜງ ຫ ເຄງມ ເພອຍາງເລາະອອມຮອບຢເຂດເທງພພຽງ ເພອເລາະ ຊມບນດານ�ຕກນອຍໆຫາຍໆບອນ. ຖາຈະປນຂນໄປເທງ ຕາດຊວາງ ແມນແນະນ�ໃຫຂນໄປແຕໃນລະດແລງເທານນ

ສ�ພດກບພາກໃຕ ມ ຢຈ�ປາສກແລະ ປາກເຊ

ຢແຂວງຈ�ປາສກ ໃນທາງພາກໃຕຂອງລາວ, ແມນ�ຂອງ ໄ ນອງ, ສາຍນ�ພດແຮງ ແລະ ໄ ວຽນວນ ໄປໃນວງກວາງ. ຢແຂວງຈ�ປາສກນແມນຂນຊທາງດານສະຖານທທອງທຽວ ທມຊ ສຽງສາມແຫງກຄ: ສວນກາເຟ ເທງດນພ ເຂາໄຟອນອດມສມບນ ຂອງເຂດພພຽງບລະເວນ ຜາສາດ ຫນວດພຈ�ປາ ສກອນເກາແກທໄດຖກຮບຮອງ ເປນມລະດກໂລກ ຈາກອງການຢເນສໂກ ເຊງມກຖກເອນຂານວາ ເປນນອງຂອງ ອງກວດໃນກ�ປເຈຍ ແລະ ເຂດມະຫານະທສພນດອນອນສວຍງາມຕະການຕາ.

ງກ ຢ ເ າະ

ເຖງວາວດພອາດຈະມຂະໜາດນອຍກວາ ແລະ ບມຊສຽງເທາ ກນກບ ເອອຍໃ ຢກ�ປເຈຍ, ແຕວາ ວດພ ກຍງຄງເປນ ສະຖານທອນສວຍ ສດງດງາມ ແລະ ໜາອດສະຈນໃຈຫາຍ ເຊງໄດຖກຮບຮອງ ເປນ ມລະດກໂລກ ຈາກອງການຢເນສໂກ, ຕງຢຫາງຈາກຕວເມອງ ປາກເຊ ປະມານ 20 ນາທ ໂດຍລດຕກໆ.

ຜາສາດຫນວດພແມນມຄວາມສວຍງາມໜາຕນຕາຕນໃຈຫາຍ. ຢອອມຮອບບລເວນ ແມນມໜອງນ�ຫາຍບອນ, ແລະ ກມທາງ ຍາງເປນຫນທຖກບລະນະຄນໃໝ, ຕາມທາງຍາງ ມຮບປນຮບ ດອກບວ ບານ ແລະ ຕນດອກຈ�ປາອນເກາແກ.

ສນກາງວດແມນຕງຢກາງປຊະນຍະສະຖານສກສດຂອງຮນດ ອນອດມສມບນ ເອນວາ ລງກາ. ບລເວນນ ແມນຕງຢຖານຂອງພ ປາສກ ແລະ ຖກເລອກຍອນວາ ຈອມພຂອງພປາສກ ໂດຍ ທ�ມະຊາດນ ແມນມຮບຊງຄກນກບ ລງກາ.

ເຖງຢາງໃດກຕາມ ພດງກາວ ກບຊວຍໄດບດບງ ບລເວນຜາສາດ ຫນ ວດພ ຈາກຄວາມຮອນພປານໃດ ດງນນ ຈງແນະນ�ໃຫ ເດນທາງໄປເຂາຊມວດພຕອນເຊາໆ ຈະດກວາ.

ສ ວດເ ງ າກເ ຢາງລະ ດເມອງປາກເຊເປນເມອງທໃ ທສດໃນແຂວງ ແລະ ເປນສນກາງ ການຄາຂາຍ ໃນລະດບພາກພນ ທກ�ລງຈະເລນເຕບໂຕ ໂດຍມ ຊາຍແດນໃກກບໄທ, ກ�ປເຈຍ ແລະ ຫວຽດນາມ.

ແຕກອນທທານຈະອອກຈາກເມອງປາກເຊໄປທອງທຽວພາຍໃນ ແຂວງ, ຢຕາມທາງນນ ກມຫາຍໆບອນ ທໜາສນໃຈ ໃຫທານໄດ ຫຽວແນມເບງ. ພະລາຊະວງດາວ ເປນຊຫນທເຂາເຈາມກເອນ ກນເຊງເປນອາຄານທຮຽນແບບພະລາຊະວງ ຣງຢແຄມແມນ� ຂອງ.

ເດ ຣເວ ລສອດ (www.t eri erresort-c ampasak.com) ເປນລສອດທງດງາມ ຫາງຈາກຕວເມອງປາກເຊ 20 ນາທ ແລະ ຕງຢໃນບລເວນສວນຂອງເຊອເຈາ ໃນສະໄໝກອນ. ຈາກລສອດ ນ ທານຈະແນມເຫນທວທດທ�ມະຊາດແຄມແມນ�ຂອງ ອນ ສວຍສດງດງາມ ແລະ ແນມເຫນ ດອນເຕາ ນ�ອກ. ລສອດນ ແມນມຄວາມເປນທ�ມະຊາດຢາງແທຈງໂດຍຕງຢກາງທງນາ ອນຂຽວງາມ.

ຢປາກເຊນ ທພກອາໄສແມນຂອນຂາງຈ�ກດ ແຕກລວມມເກອບ ທກ ຮບແບບທທານມກ ແລະ ທກລາຄາ. ປາກເຊຕງຢບລເວນ ພນທຕ� ອາກາດຈງຂອນຂາງຮອນ ແລະ ເອາ ໃນຍາມກາງເວນ.

ການເ ນທາງ : ການບນລາວ ມຖຽວບນຈາກວຽງຈນໄປປາກເຊ ມລະ 2 ຖຽວ ແລະ ກມຫາຍຄນທບນຈາກປາເຊ ໄປຕກ�ປເຈຍເລຍ. ທານສາມາດຕດຕຫາຜນ�ທຽວ ແລະ ຄນຂບລດ ໄດທ out ern aos ours (www.sout ernlaos.net).

ວ ນວນຢແ ງເມອເດນທາງຜານ ສພນດອນ ທານຈະພບເຫນການດ�ລງຊວດ ກຄການຫາປາແບບດງເດມຂອງປະຊາຊນ. ນອກນນ ເກາະສພນ ດອນ ຍງເປນແ ງບອນຢ ອາໄສຂອງ ປາຂາ (ປາໂລມານ�ຈດ) ເຊງເປນສດທໃກຈະສນພນແລວ.

ທານສາມາດເດນທາງໜງມ ໄປຫາ ດອນແດງ ເຊງເປນດອນ ທ� ອດ ໃນບນດາຫາຍໆເກາະດອນ. ເຖງແມນວາດອນແດງຈະ ເປນພຽງຕວຢາງໜງ ແຕຖາທານມເວລາຈ�ກດ ການເດນທາງ ມາດອນແດງ ກຖໄດວາເປນທາງເລອກທດທສດ. ຢ ຣເວ ລສອດ ຫ ສນຂມນທອງທຽວແຂວງຈ�ປາສກ ສາມາດຊວຍທານຈດກຽມ ການເດນທາງໄດ.

I Tad Lo Senevang. I

ປດຈບນ ບນດາປະຊາຊນຢໃນທອງຖນ ແລະ ຜນບຖສາສະໜາ ກຍງຄງທ�ການໄ ພະ ສກກາລະບຊາຢສະຖານທແຫງນເປນ ປະຈ�. ແຕລະມ ຢຕາມທາດຕາງໆ ກຈະມການສວດມນ, ແລະ ທານສາມາດຊດອກໄມທບທຽນຢບລເວນດງກາວ ເພອມາໄ ພະສກກາລະບຊາ. ທກໆສອງເດອນ ປະຊາຊນຫາຍຮອຍຄນ ຈະເດນທາງມາວດພ ໃນມວນສນຂນສບຫາຄ� ເພອສກກາລະ ບຊາ ໂດຍຈະຈດຂນໃນຕອນ ກາງຄນ ພອມກບແສງໄຟອນງດ ງາມຈາກໂຄມໄຟຫາກຫາຍສ. ສ�ລບຂມນເພມເຕມ, ທານ ສາມາດເຂາໄປທ

atp ou-c ampassak.com/en/e ents/60-festi al- e-at-p u.

ເພາະໃນລະດ ນ ຫນຈະມນ ອນຕະລາຍ ແລະ ທານອາດຈະ ພະລາດລມ ຕກລງມາໄດ.

ເມອເດນທາງມາຕມອກໜງຊວໂມງ ທານຈະມາຮອດໝບານທ ຖກຍກຍາຍຈດສນມາ ເຊງປະກອບມບານຂອງຊນເຜາ ກະຕ, ລະເວນ, ອາລກ ແລະ ຕະໂອຍ. ຢ ບານ ໂຄກຜງ ທານຈະ ໄດພບເຫນການດ�ລງຊວດ ປກ ງລຽງສດ ຂອງປະຊາຊນພາຍ ໃນບານ. ເມອເດນທາງໄປຕມ ກຈະພບກບ ຕາດເລາະ ແສນວງ ເຊງເປນນ�ຕກທນອຍແຕງາມ. ທານສາມາດແວະກນເຂາໄດຢນ ຫ ພກເຊາຢບານພກເຊງຕງຢແຄມແມນ�. ສະຖານທນ ເໝາະກບການລງລອຍນ�ຫນ ກບປະຊາຊນໃນທອງຖນ.

ບານຫວຍອນ ເປນບານຫດຖະກ�ແຜນແພ ຂອງຊນເຜາກະຕ ເຊງເປນບອນສນສດ ຂອງການເດນທາງນ. ບນດາແຜນແພຢນ ແມນມຄນນະພາບດ ແລະ ງດງາມຫາຍ. ສວນລາຄາກບແພງ ແລະ ລາຍໄດຈາກການຂາຍນ ແມນໄປຫາຜຕ�ໂດຍກງເລຍ.

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ASEAN CONNECTwords I an L ac ey

Surf spots abound for novice and experienced wave riders where the Indian Ocean breaks onto the beaches of Bali. If you’re in the former bracket, Kuta is an ideal place to start. There are dozens of surf schools to show you the ropes, first on the sand and then in the sea in gentle waves that make a perfect initiation for beginners. Pro Surf School (prosurfschool.com) and Blue Ocean Surf Guiding (blueoceansurfguiding.com) are some of the best outfits and

offer lessons based on experience, as well as board rental for solo surfers.

If you want to get away from Kuta’s hectic day and night life, head three hours north to Medewi. A left-hand break and 30-second rides at high tide make this a popular but still relatively serene destination. Hostels, bars and beach-shack restaurants keep the surfing community satisfied after sunset.

BALI’S PULSING ADVENTURE SCENE

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ON THE OPEN WATER

R i v e r D e e p , Mountain High

RENOWNED FOR ITS SUN-DRENCHED BEACHES, SOARING VOLCANOES AND A VIBRANT CULTURE THAT PLAYS OUT ON THE STREETS, BALI HAS LONG BEEN REGARDED AS THE EPITOME OF PARADISE. IT’S A PEACEFUL PLACE TO DRIFT AWAY AND RELAX BOTH THE BODY AND MIND.

BUT BEYOND THE EDGE OF THE DENSE J U N G L E A N D O N B A L I ’ S R U G G E D COASTLINES ARE THE ADVENTURE ACTIVITIES OF A LIFETIME. SURFING THE WAVES IN MEDEWI, TREKKING UP MOUNT AGUNG AT SUNRISE OR WHITE-WATER RAFTING DOWN THE AYUNG RIVER ARE JUST SOME OF THE EXCITING WAYS TO EXPERIENCE THE INDONESIAN ISLAND’S NATURAL WONDERS.

I Riding Bali's famous waves. Photo courtesy Bali Open Surf Guiding. I

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orld of hard corals, e otic fish and colourful plants e ists under Bali’s waters. Indeed, the island forms part of the Coral Triangle – a global centre of marine biodiversity and a major conservation area.

For an introduction to this environment, Atlantis International Bali (atlantis-bali-diving.com) gives one-day courses in Tulamben Bay in the northeast, as well as more advanced dives in Nusa Penida/Lembongan in the far south.

pot manta rays, sunfish and coral sponges at this remarkable site, which even includes the USS Liberty shipwreck.

The volcanoes of Bali pierce the imagination as they do the sky. While beneath the ground they are mostly dormant, the topography is a testament to their dramatic past. Mt Batur and Mt Agung are the best to explore during your stay.

The easier of the two climbs is Mt Batur, a 45-minute drive from Kuta or Denpasar. To avoid the mid-morning heat, the two-hour climb is undertaken in the dark and reaches the summit for sunrise. From the top you can see far over Bali and enjoy a hearty breakfast cooked by your guide.

Mt Agung, the island’s highest point, takes three to four hours to conquer. At 3,142 metres your breath will be

taken away – not by the altitude, but by the ocean views and the island of Lombok in the far distance.

Both Bali Trekking Tour (balitrekkingtour.com) and Bali Sunrise Trekking and Tours (www.balisunrisetours.com) are professional operators and do pick-up and drop-off at your hotel.

UNDER THE WAVES

ABOVE THE CLOUDS

Hidden between the mountains and the sea are rivers coursing like a ribbon through the landscape. Two of these – the Ayung and Telaga Waja – are by far best to raft, both being challenging but safe enough for families. The rapids are an intense adrenaline rush, while the stunning backdrop of mountains and forest will add extra colour to the experience.

You’ll see many tours advertised on the island but there are just a few fully licensed operators. Bali Adventure Tours (baliadventuretours.com) and Sobek (balisobek.com) are among the best.

RIDE THE RIVERS

WHEN TO GO: The dry season from April to October is the most popular time to visit Bali. December and January are known for mid-afternoon thunderstorms and some prolonged periods of rain. Year-round temperatures are 26°C to 29°C.

GETTING THERE: ir sia flies from ientiane to uala umpur here several daily connections depart for ali.

I A school of fish. Photo Ilse Reijs. II The summit of Mt Batur. Photo courtesy Bali Trekking Tour. I

I Climbers on Mt Batur. Photo courtesy Bali Trekking Tour. I

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ASEAN CONNECT

ບາຫ ເປນເມອງທຂນຊທາງດານຫາດຊາຍກບດວງ ອາທດສອງແສງ, ພເຂາໄຟຕງສະຫງາ, ແລະ ສສນຫາກ ຫາຍທາງດານວດທະນະທ�. ບາຫເປນບອນງຽບ ສະຫງບ ເໝາະແກການພກຜອນຢອນໃຈ ແລະ ເພດເພນໄປກບການທອງທຽວ.

ແຕຢເບອງຫງຂອງພາບອນງຽບສະຫງບນ ແມນເຕມ ໄປດວຍກດຈະກ�ການຜະຈນໄພ ທທານຈະບມວນ ລມເລຍໃນຊວດ. ການຫນກລາໂຕຄນ ທເມເດວ, ຂນໄປພເຂາອາກງຕອນຕາເວນຂນ, ຫ ລອງແພລງ ມາຕາມແມນ�ອາຢງ ແມນເປນພຽງ ສວນໜງເທານນ ໃນບນ ດາຫາກຫາຍກດຈະກ�ອນໜາຕນເຕນ ເພອສ�ຜດເຖງອດສະຈນທາງທ�ມະຊາດຂອງເກາະອນໂດເນເຊຍ.

ພເຂາສງຊນ, ແມນ�ໄ ເລກ

ຢເທງໜານ�

ຢບາຫ ແມນມສະຖານທໃຫໂຕຄນຫາຍບອນ ທງສ�ລບຜທ ຫາກເລມຮຽນໂຕຄນໃໝ ໄປຈນຮອດຜທມປະສບການສງແລວ. ຖາທານຫາກເລມຮຽນ, ກຕາ ເປນບອນທເໝາະສ�ລບການເລມ ຕນ, ແລະ ຢບາຫເອງ ກມໂຮງຮຽນສອນກລາໂຕຄນດໆຫາຍ ບອນ. ໂຮງຮຽນ ro urf c ool (prosurfsc ool.com) ແລະ

lue cean urf ui in (blueoceansurf ui in .com) ແມນເປນໜງໃນບນດາໂຮງຮຽນທດທສດ.

ຖາ ທາ ນ ຢ າ ກ ຫບ ໜ ຈ າ ກ ຄ ວ າ ມ ວນ ວ າ ຍ ຂ ອ ງ ກ ຕ າ ທງ ຍາມກາງເວນ ແລະ ກາງຄນ, ທານສາມາດມງໜາ ໄປທາງ ເ ອ ຊວໂມງໄປຫາ ເມເດວ. ສງທເຮດໃຫສະຖານທນມຊ ສຽງໂດດເດນ ແມນ ຄນຊດ ງຊາຍ (left- an break) ແລະ ການຜານຜາຄນ 0 ວນາທ ຕອນນ�ຂນສງ, ແຕຢເມເດວກຍງຄງເປນບອນທງຽບສະ ບຢ. ນອກນນ ຢນກຍງມບນດາ ເຮອນພກ, ຮານກນດມ ແລະ ຮານອາຫານແຄມທະເລນ�.

ຢພາຍໃຕຄນທະເລເມອດ�ລງໄປກອງໜານ�ຂອງບາຫ ທານຈະພບກບ ໂລກທເຕມໄປດວຍປະກາລງແຂງ, ປາທແປກປະຫາດ ແລະ ບນດາພດພນທມສສນຫາກຫາຍ. ຄວາມຈງແລວ ເກາະແຫງນແມນເປນສວນໜງໃນ ສາມຫຽມປະກາລງ - ເຊງເປນສນກາງຂອງ ຊວະນາໆພນທາງທະເລ ລະດບໂລກ ແລະ ເປນເຂດສະ ວນອນສ�ຄນນ�ອກ.

tlantis nternational ali (atlantis-bali-i in .com) ສອນຫກສດ 1 ມໃນ ອາວຕລ�ເບນ

ໃນພາກຕາເວນອອກສຽງເ ອ, ແລະ ກຍງມການດ�ນ�ໃນລະດບຍາກຂນທ ນຊາ ເປນດາ/ເລມບອນກນ ຢແ ຖ ວ ໃ ຕໆ . ເ ມອ ດ�ນ� ທາ ນ ຈ ະ ພບ ເ ຫ ນ ປາກະເບນລາຫ (ແມນຕາ ເ ), ປາແສງອາທດ, ປະກາລງຟອງນ�, ແລະ ຍງຈະພບເຫນຊາກເຮອທ ຫກພງຂອງເຮອ ລເບຕນ�ອກ.

ລອງຕາມແມນ�ສງທຖກເຊອງຊອນຢລະຫວາງພເຂາ ແລະ ທະເລ ຂອງບາຫ ແມນແມນ�. ແມນ�ອາຢງ ແລະ ແມນ�ເທລາກາ ວາຈາ ແມນເປນສອງແມນ�ທເໝາະກບການລອງແພທສດ, ເຊງແມນ�ສອງບອນນ ຂອນຂາງທາທາຍ ແຕກຍງຄງປອດໄພສ�ລບຄອບຄວຢ.

ຢເທງເກາະ ທານຈະເຫນໂຄສະນາບລສດທວຫາຍບອນ ແຕວາ ມແຕບາງບລສດເທານນທໄດຮບອະນຍາດດ�ເນນງານຢາງເຕມຮບແບບ. ບລສດ ali enture ours (balia enturetours.com) ແລະ obek (balisobek.com) ແມນໜງໃນບນດາທວທດທສດ.

ຢເ ອເມກພເຂາບາຕວ ແລະ ພເຂາອາກງ ແມນເປນພເຂາ ໄຟທໂດດເດນຫາຍ ໄວໃຫທານໄດໄປຜະຈນໄພ

ໃນໄລຍະທທານໄປຢຽມຢາມບາຫ.

ພທປນງາຍກວາໝໃນບນດາ 2 ພນ ແມນພເຂາບາຕວ ເຊງໃຊເວລາຂບລດປະມານ 45 ນາທ ຈາກກຕາ ຫ ເດນປາຊາ. ເພອຫກລຽງແດດຮອນຕອນເຊາ ເຮາແນະນ� ໃຫປນຕອນເຊາມດ ໂດຍໃຊເວລາ 2 ຊວໂມງເພອໄປຮອດ ຈອມພຕອນຕາເວນຂນ. ຈາກຈອມພ ທານຈະແນ ເຫນ ທວທດບາຫ ພອມມວນຊນ ຮບປະທານອາຫານເຊາ ທຜນ� ທຽວແຕງ ໄວໃຫທານ.

ພເຂາອາກງ ເປນຈດສງທສດຂອງເກາະແຫງນ ແລະ ໃຊເວລາປນປະມານ -4 ຊວໂມງ. ເມອຢເທງຈອມພສງ

,142 ແມດ ທານຈະແນມເຫນທວທດມະຫາສະໝດ ອນເປນຕາໜາປະທບໃຈຫາຍ. ທງບລສດ ali rekkin

our (balitrekkin tour.com) ແລະ ບລສດ ali unrise rekkin (balisunrisetrekkin .com)

ແມນມຄວາມຊຽວຊານທາງດານນ ແລະ ມບລການຮບ-ສງທານຢໂຮງແຮມນ�.

ບດຄວາມໂດຍ ອຽນ ເລຊ

ພາບການຜະຈນໄພອນໜາ

ຕນຕາຕນໃຈ ທ ບາຫ

ຕ ນ : ລະດແລງ ຊວງເດອນເມສາ ຫາ ຕລາ ແມນເປນຊວງເວລາ ທຄນມກນຍມເດນທາງໄປບາຫທສດ. ເດອນທນວາ ຫາ ມງກອນ ແມນມກມ ນຟາຄະນອງຕອນສວາຍ ແລະ ນຕກເປນເວລາດນ. ອນຫະພມສະເລຍຕະຫອດປແມນຢປະມານ 26 ຫາ 29 ອງສາ.

ແ ວ : ແອ ເອເຊຍ ບນຈາກວຽງຈນ ຫາ ກວລາລ�ເປ, ແລະ ຈາກກວລາລ�ເປ ກມຖຽວບນໄປຕບາຫ ຫາຍຖຽວບນຕມ.

I Mixing with marine life. Photo Stef Bemba. I I Fish underwater. Photo Ilse Reijs. I

TheGood Guide ຄມແນະນ�ດໆ

ຄມແນະນ�ຂອງສະບາຍດ ນ�ພາທານໄປສສງທດທສດ

ບວາຈະເປນບອນເບງ, ບອນທຽວ, ບອນກນ ແລະ ບອນດມ ຢໃນຕວເມອງຂອງລາວ.

ໃນເດອນນ ພວກເຮາຄນພບຮານອາຫານເຈທຄກສດໆ

ຢໃນນະຄອນຫວງວຽງຈນ ຖກໃຈຄນມກກນເຈ ກບອາຫານອາຊທປາສະຈາກຊນ

ລດຊາດແຊບຊອຍ ແລະ ຫາກຫາຍ.

ນອກນນແລວ ພວກເຮາຂອແນະນ� ຄລບາແຄມຂອງ ຮານ 12

ພອມທງບນດາສະຖານທຕາງໆ ທຖກໃຈພວກເຮາໃນທວລາວ

ຢໃນລາຍການ , , , , ແລະ listin s ຂອງພວກເຮາ.

Sabaidee’s guide to the very best things to see, do, eat and drink in the country’s urban centres.

This month we uncover Vientiane’s fantastic vegetarian-only restaurants, offering tasty meat-free meals across a range of Asian cuisines.

We then take a look at hip-and-happening riverside bar April 12, along with a curated list of our favourite places around Laos in out EAT, DRINK, SLEEP, RELAX, SHOP and SEE & DO listings.

I April 12. Photo Subsin Sinuvong. I

4 1

VEGGIES OF VIENTIANESABAIDEE'S GUIDE TOwords & photos James Elton-Pym

L A O C U I S I N E I S F A M O U S F O R I T S D U C K - B L O O D S O U P , MARKETPLACE ‘MEAT-ON-A-STICK’ AND ITS ADMIRABLE B U T O C C A S I O N A L L Y UNSETTLING DETERMINATION TO USE EVERY PART OF THE ANIMAL. FOR VEGETARIANS, IT ’S A SCARY WORLD.

B U T H I D D E N I N V I E N T I A N E A R E S O M E F A N T A S T I C V E G E T A R I A N - O N L Y R E S T A U R A N T S – A N D T H E Y ’ R E G A I N I N G A S E R I O U S F O L L O W I N G . H A V E V IENTIANE’S VEGGIES BEEN L I V I N G I N A H E R B I V O R O U S PARADISE ALL ALONG?

DISCOVERING THE CAPITAL’S VEGETARIAN-ONLY RESTAURANTS

ອາຫານເຈຢວຽງຈນເ ດເ ບນດາ ານ າ ານເຈ ນະ ນ ວງວ ງ ນ

ອາຫານລາວເຮາແມນຂນຊວາເປນອາຫານທໃສຊນຫາຍໆ. ສ�ລບຄນທກນເຈແລວທານຈະພບກບບນດາຮານອາຫານເຈ ທເຊອງຊອນຢພາຍໃນຕວເມອງວຽງຈນ. ມນ ພວກເຮາຈະນ�ພາທານໄປສຮານອາຫານເຈ 4 ຮານ, ຖກໃຈສ�ລບຜທມກກນເຈ.ສຮານອາຫານເຈ 4 ຮານ, ຖກໃຈສ�ລບຜທມກກນເຈ.ສ

VEGETARIAN IN THE GOLDEN AGE

The geniuses in the kitchen at Vegetarian in the Golden Age have got fake meat down to a forensic art – so much so that you will nearly question whether it isn’t all an elaborate hoax and it isn’t in fact real meat on the plate. Some veggies aren’t a fan of this, but if you can get past the eirdness of biting into super realistic fried fish someho created from soybeans, the dishes are delicious. Fake pork, beef and chicken are all on the menu too, alongside more conventional veggie staples like eggplant and tofu that aren’t pretending to be anything else. The food is fantastic. Order a few dishes to share. Unless you go crazy, you’re unlikely to run up a bill of more than 50,000 kip each. The restaurant is run by Vietnamese monks, and the walls are adorned with photographs of famous Vietnamese Buddhist leader Master Ruma. Sometimes a television in the corner plays strange videos of monks playing with dogs on repeat, which is odd but endearing in its way. Come at lunch for a super-cheap buffet. All food here is believed to be vegan.

T: 020 5550 5305 A: Saylom Road OPEN: DAILY 8AM-8PM

I Fake fried pork at Vegetarian in the Golden Age. I

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VEGIE HUT

ou ould never ever find this brilliant Chinesestyle hideout if you weren’t looking for it. It’s located near Patuxay, close to the intersec-tion between Sibounheuang Road and Asean Road. A lot of thought has been put into making Vegie Hut’s interior warm, comfortable and inviting. he menu is huge, and you’ll find flavours from Chinese, ao and hai cuisines. There’s more fake meat here, including fake duck and fake seafood. The staff are extremely attentive and friendly, and prices are very fair. Vegie Hut can get crowded, so consider mak-ing a booking.

T: 020 5619 9938 A: Asean Road OPEN: MONDAY-

SATURDAY 9AM-9PM

MANNA HEALTH FOOD RESTAURANT

Manna stands out for its insane value for money. The food is extremely good, and the lunch buffet gives you two dishes with rice for 10,000 kip, or three for 12,000 kip. WHAT?

he ao style food in the trays is nice and hot. Once you’ve picked up your meal from the outdoor buffet, you can head inside to a cool interior furnished with solid hardwood tables. unch comes ith a tasty broth ith tofu. Chilled water is free. A place as good as this earns a cult following quickly, and veggies and non-veggies alike working along busy Nongbone Road didn’t take long to sniff this one out. When the gun for lunch fires at 12pm, the rush is on. Get here much later than 1pm and you’ll find yourself left ith the limp, unloved leftovers. The ladies at the buffet are delighted when foreigners speak even a tiny bit of ao, so give it a go

T: 020 5564 9296 A: Nongbone Road OPEN:

MONDAY-FRIDAY 10.30AM-2PM

KHOUADIN VEGETARIAN

In the heart of Khouadin market, this tiny buffet lunch spot is cheap and cheerful. The range of trays full of pre-cooked vegetarian dishes make it perfect for a quick meal while shopping in the market. Many of the clientele are vendors on a brief break from manning stalls of their own. unch at the all you can eat buffet is 25,000

kip per person. The quality of the food is not as good as the others on this list, but for its convenient location and affordability this is a good little pit stop. It’s tiny size makes Khouadin egetarian a little hard to find. tarting at the

central bus station, walk up Nongbone Road away from town for about 100m. Turn right when you reach a woven basket shop onto an alley heading into the marketplace. The eatery’s yellow sign will be on your left about 50m in.

T: 021 251615 A: Inside Khouadin market, off

Nongbone Road OPEN: MONDAY-SATURDAY

9AM-3PM

ຮານ e etarian in t e ol en e

ບນດາພຄວແມຄວຢຮານ e etarian in t e ol en e ນ ແມນມພອນສະຫວນໃນການ

ເຮດຊນເຈເກງຫາຍ ບວາຈະເປນໝເຈ, ງວເຈ ແ ລ ະ ໄ ກເ ຈ ແ ມນ ມ ໝດ ຢໃ ນ ເ ມ ນ , ແ ລ ະ ຄຽງຄກນນນກມບນດາອາຫານເຈພນໆເຊນ ໝາກເຂອຍາວ ແລະ ເຕາຮ. ອາຫານຢນ ຂບອກວາແຊບຫາຍ! ລາຄາ ອາຫານລວມ ແ ລວ ບເ ກ ນ 5 0 , 0 0 0 ກ ບ ຕຄນ . ຮາ ນ ນ ບລຫານໂດຍກມຄບາຫວຽດ ເຊງທານຈະເຫນ ຮບຂອງຜນ�ສາດສະໜາພດ ທມຊສຽງຂອງ ຫວຽດນາມ ກຄອາຈານ ຣມາ ຕດຢຕາມ າ. ແນະນ�ທານມາກນອາຫານທຽງກບບບເຟລາຄາຖກຫາຍ.

ໂທ: 020 5550 5 05 ທຢ: ຖະໜນສາຍລມ ເປດ: ທກມ 8ໂມງເຊາ-8ໂມງກາງຄນ

ຮານ e ie ut

ທານຈະບມທາງແນມເຫນ ຮານອາຫານ ເຈຮບແບບຈນຮານນແນນອນ ຖາທານ ບໄດຕງໃຈໄປຊອກອຫ. ຮານອາຫານນ ຕງ ຢໃ ກປະຕໄຊ, ຢໃ ກສແຍກໄຟແດງ ຖະໜນສບນເຮອງ ຕດກບຖະໜນອາຊຽນ. ການຕກແຕງພາຍໃນແມນສະບາຍໆ ແລະ ເປນຕານງດ. ສວນເມນແມນມຫາກຫາຍອຫ ບວາຈະເປນປະເພດອາຫານຈນ, ລາວ ແລະ ໄທ. ຢຮານນມຊນເຈຫາຍກວາ ທງເປດເຈ ແລະ ອາຫານທະເລເຈ. ຄນມາ ກນຂອນຂາງຫາຍຢຮານ e ie ut, ສະນນ ຖາທານຈະມາ ແນະນ�ໃຫຈອງໄວກອນ.

ໂທ: 020 5619 99 8 ທຢ: ຖະໜນອາຊຽນ ເປດ: ວນຈນ-ວນເສາ 9ໂມງເຊາ-9ໂມງກາງຄນ

ອາຫານເຈຕະຫາດຂວດນ

ຢໃຈກາງຕະຫາດຂວດນ ແມນມ ບອນ ຂາຍອາຫານເຈຕອນທຽງ ແບບບບເຟ ເປນຮານນອຍໆ ລາຄາຖກ ແລະ ຄກຄນດ. ລາຄາບບເຟເຂາສວາຍແມນ 25,000 ກບຕຄນ ໃຫທານຕກໄດຫາຍຕາມໃຈມກ. ຄນນະພາບຂອງອາຫານບທຽບເທາບອນອນ, ແຕທສະດວກກແມນສະຖານທໆຢໃກເມອງ ແລະ ລາຄາກຖກນ�.

ໂທ: 021 251615 ທຢ: ຢໃນຕະຫາດຂວດນ, ສດຖະໜນໜອງບອນ ເປດ: ວນຈນ-ວນເສາ 9ໂມງເຊາ-

ໂມງສວາຍ

ຮານອາຫານ anna ealt oo

ອາຫານຢຮານມນນາ ມລດຊາດແຊບຫາຍ ແລະ ສ�ລບບບເຟອາຫານທຽງ ແມນທານຈະ ໄດຮບອາຫານ 2 ເຍອງພອມເຂາໃນລາຄາ 10,000 ກບ ແລະ ເຍອງໃນລາຄາ 12,000 ກບ. ອາຫານມລດຊາດລາວໆ ໃສຖາດມາຮອນໆແຊບໆ. ເຂາສວາຍແມນມາ ພອມກບແກງເຕາຮລດຊາດດ. ຮານນແມນມຊ ສຽງຫາຍ, ດງນນ ຖາທານມາຫງ 1ໂມງສວາຍ ຂອງກນສວນຫາຍແມນເກອບຈະໝດແລວ.

ໂທ: 020 5564 9296 ທຢ: ຖະໜນໜອງບອນ ເປດ: ວນຈນ-ວນສກ 10: 0ໂມງເຊາ-2ໂມງສວາຍ

I At just 10,000 kip, Manna Health Food Restaurant is a cheap veggie lunch. I

I Khouadin Vegetarian, conveniently situated in the middle of the market. II Vegie Hut's interior is warm and inviting. I

I Manna Health Food Restaurant. I

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• LA S GNATU E – French/Fusion. Set in the stylish Ansara Hotel, this sophisticated restaurant perfectly marries French-Lao fusion with old-world charm. Choose between dining indoors in the high-ceilinged salon or al fresco on the elegant terrace. Sample salmon tartare with green apple millefeuille,

urgundy snails and three flavoured lamb or let the chef guide you with daily specials including Lao-style petit fours. Desserts include a not-to-be-missed crème brulee trio. Quai Fa Ngum, Ban Vat Chan Tha, 021 213 514, ansarahotel.com. Open 7 days 6.30am – 10.00am, 11.30am – 2.30pm, 16.30pm – 9.30pm.

• V ENG SA AN Vietnamese. Look beyond the décor at this bustling eatery which serves up cheap and delicious Vietnamese dishes to hungry masses. Order a fresh or fried spring roll combination which comes with heaped plates of fresh lettuce, herbs and noodles designed to be eaten together. If you’re feeling lost check out how neighbouring diners are doing things and follow suit. Rue Hengboun (opposite Home Ideal), 021 213 990.

V ENT ANE

• A S G LLE – American/Mexican.• A S G LLE – American/Mexican.• A S G LLE It’s all about comfort food at Ray’s – home style burgers, legendary Philly cheese steak sandwiches and tasty quesadillas – all fresh and made to order in this homely joint. While the real drawcard is the colossal cheeseburger (best handled with two hands) mention must also go to the felafel burger which is sure to satisfy vegetarians. A selection of local and imported beers are available including a few micro-brewed American craft beers – just the ticket to wash down this tasty diner fare. 17/1 Sihom Road, 020 5896 6866, facebook.com/raysgrilleLaopdr. Open Monday to Friday, Sunday 11am - 3pm, 6pm -11pm.

• AN GA TE E ANT NA – American/Mexican. A casual eatery which some say serves the best chicken in Vientiane. Once famed purely for their finger licking buffalo hot ings, an ai has recently expanded their menu to include a host of authentic e Me classics including nachos, enchiladas and

burritos heaped ith fresh salsa, gooey cheese and accompanied by bo ls of piping hot rice and beans.

air anything from the menu ith one of their delicious margaritas and you’re set. Family friendly, delivery. Sokpalaung Road, 020 9825 6654, facebook.com/BanGaiHouseOfChicken. Open Tuesday to Sunday 11am – 9pm.

EAT Listing

• LAO T HEN – Lao. A colourful eatery that specialises in authentic Lao dishes. Sisters Noi and Teng run the show while their family help out in the kitchen preparing soups, stews, grilled meats, stir-fry dishes and of course laap the duck variation is a stand out). A great place for those new to Lao cuisine – the menu is full of helpful explanations for each dish and warns you if something may be a little too piquant for some palates. Rue Hengboun (opposite KP Hotel), 021 254 332, lao-kitchen.com. Open Monday to Sunday 11am – 10pm.

• UNG S A LAO – Lao/Breakfast. Tucked down a residential laneway, this popular breakfast and lunch haunt is a hit with those in-the-know. The breakfast and lunch menu runs all day so try Lao-inspired sweets like sticky rice pancakes with mango or banana French toast and savoury dishes like meatballs in broth with a fresh crunchy baguette or the Pad Lao noodles with pork. On the main street, look for a small hand painted sign pointing the way. Off Rue Simeuang, Piawat Village, 021 219 101, facebook.com/KungsCafeLao. Open 7 days 6am – 3pm.

• A A A TAL AN UL NA A TS – Italian. Aria presents high-end epicurean Italian cuisine in an elegant salon setting in downtown Vientiane. The kitchen produces traditional hearty Italian fare including antipasti, homemade pasta and

ood fired pi a using the highest uality ingredients. iscerning diners ill elcome the e tensive ine list hich boasts fine imports from taly. et lunches are

extremely popular on weekdays. 8 Rue Francois Ngin, 021 222 589, ariaorg.com.

• SOUL T HEN – Italian This laid-back dinner hot spot is a little off the main drag but the pi as and casual atmosphere – complete with rock and blues tunes – make it worth the trip. The menu includes tasty pasta dishes and salads but it’s the traditional wood fired pi as that keeps oul itchen’s loyal fans coming back for more. In keeping with the quotes from rock stars scra led on the alls, the pies have fun names like Rock n Roll’, urple a e’ and oodoo Child’. Family friendly. Thadeua Road 143 (KM 0.5), 020 5612 0804, soulkitchen.vientiane@gmail.com. Open Tuesday to Sunday 5.30pm – 10.30pm.

• A HET – Lao. This restaurant-cum-social enterprise is orking to shape lives. Founded by Friends nternational, Makphet provides training in hospitality to disadvantaged youth in aos. f that wasn’t enough reason to dine here the kitchen creates an inspired take on Lao cuisine, blending traditional flavours ith modern techni ues. #78 Ban Inpeng, Vat Chanh Tha, 021 260 587, makphet-restaurant.org. Open Monday to Sunday 11am-10.30pm.

• ST O – French. Chef Philippe presents honest French bistro fare at this cosy, hole-in-the-wall eatery. he food is fresh and flavourful ith highlights including the goat’s cheese salad, rabbit terrine and classic steak frites. Popular with the expat crowd, the service is faultless and the desserts, including a delectable chocolate fondant, are not to be missed. 22 Samsenthai Road, Ban Khaonyot, 021 214 129. Open Monday to Friday 11am – 2pm, Monday to Saturday 6pm – 10pm.

• ENON A – Asian/Western/Café. Escape the bustle of downtown Vientiane at Benoni Café, a bright and airy caf cum restaurant hich serves up fresh and tasty Asian and Western fare. Choose from a wide range of baguettes, quiches, burgers and noodle and rice dishes all prepared uickly and served ith a smile. The Lao coffee is home roasted and the delicious cakes and sweets are all made in-house. WiFi, family friendly. Rue Setthathirath (above Phimphone), 021 213 334, facebook.com/benonicafe. Open Monday to Saturday 10am – 5pm.

• ULALA A ESTAU ANT – Japanese/Fusion. ull up a chair or nestle into a floor cushion at this cute little joint which puts a Japanese spin on Western ingredients. While the daily specials are ever changing popular mainstays include saut ed chicken with tofu, soy sauce and mirin and the potato croquettes with mince beef and a tomato-based sauce. et meals come ith salad, pickled vegetables, flavoursome broth and steamed purple rice. eating is limited so it can pack out early on the weekends. Rue Hengboun, 020 5510 4050, facebook.com/pages/YuLaLa-cafe-restaurant/148520861845706. Open Tuesday to Sunday 11.30am – 2pm, 6pm – 9.30pm.

• LE S LA A ESTAU ANT – French. Le Silapa is an elegant gastronomic experience housed above the o ners more casual establishment eam

ar. ecadent and e tensive the menu contains a collection of classic and modern French-inspired delicacies and the wine list includes bottles from France, Italy, Australia and South Africa. For a spot of post-dinner indulgence the cheese selection is outstanding. he ever changing daily lunch set menu is a steal. Free WiFi. evel 1, 88 Setthathirath Road (above I Beam), 021 219 689, facebook.com/lesilapavientiane. Open 7 days 11am – 11pm.

• A L AH ESTAU ANT – Indian/Pakistani. This cheap and cheerful eatery is affectionately known simply as Jamil’s by the loyal diners that frequent it. Tucked down an alley, Jamil and his team serve up authentic ndian and akistani dishes hich are full of flavour and light on the hip pocket. Ordering anything that comes from Jamil’s on site traditional tandoori oven is al ays a safe bet. Off Khounboulom Road, Ban Haysok, 020 5650 2455, facebook.com/JamilZahidRestaurantVientiane. Open 7 days 11.00am – 10.30pm.

• ASA S OON A N ST O – Asian/Western. bright and cheerful restaurant, split over t o levels Masa pairs minimalist furniture ith feature

alls of ra timber, cool all art and vintage china. The menu runs from share-plates of Asian-spiced chicken wings and crunchy onion rings to dishes for one including signature dishes Masa Spoon burger, sticky BBQ spare ribs and tasty pastas. Sweet tooths ill love the honey toast perfect ith a cup of tea. Rue Dongpalanthong, Phonesinuan (next to Pizza Company), 021 261 634, facebook.com/MasaSpoonCafeNBistro. Open Monday to Saturday 11am – 11pm.

| Masa Spoon Cafe N' Bistro. |

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| Pimenton |

| Pimenton |

V ENT ANE

• L A ESSE E T NA ESTAU ANT AN A S – French. Chef Tinay produces some of ientiane’s finest and most inventive French cuisine at this chic dining spot. he hole duck breast ith homemade foie gras and hite truffle oil is a current favourite and inay’s signature cassoulet ith homemade confit duck is the perfect nod to traditional French comfort food. For dessert the crème brulee is the best in town. Behind Wat Ong Teu, 020 5691 3434, ladressedetinay.com. Open Monday to Friday 11.30am – 2pm, 6.30pm – 10pm, Saturday 6.30pm – 10pm.

• OSA A HA HAO – Japanese. his cosy eatery is usually bu ing ith apanese customers who come for a taste of home – always a good sign. Simple traditional and not-so-traditional Japanese fare is on offer including generous sushi and sashimi platters, crisp tempura, steaming bo ls of ramen and udon noodle soups and a variety of katsu dishes. he set meals are a great

ay to try a little of everything and the tempura ice cream is a uirky addition to the s eets menu. Nokeokoummane Road (next to Le Banneton).

• A A ONE – Italian. The latest offering from Chef Gerardo is Ai Capone, in downtown Vientiane. The contemporary interior is matched with a modern menu offering top Italian dining

ith a casual flair, boasting simple dishes packing authentic flavours. he menu ranges from pastas and mains to risotto and desserts but it’s hard to look past the ood fired pi as ith over 40 combinations straight from apoli. 8 Rue Francois Ngin, Ban Mixai, 020 5991 0888, facebook.com/aicaponelaospdr. Open 7 days 11.30am – 10.30pm.

• ENTON – Spanish/Steakhouse/Tapas. ra ing on ispanic flavours and flair the emphasis here is on open ood fire uality grilled meats and small bites. ry contemporary tapas like montadito of pork belly, homemade grilled chori o, garlic pra ns and imported am n ib rico de bellota or look to the grill for succulent tenderloin or lamb chops served ith a kicky chimichurri sauce. The slick warehouse-esque décor with polished concrete and exposed piping only enhances the dining experience at Vientiane’s hippest eatery. 5 Rue Nokeoukoumane, 021 215 506, pimentonrestaurant-vte.com. Open Monday to Saturday 11am – 2.30pm, 5pm – 10pm.

• TA NA LAO ESTAU ANT – Lao. A family-run restaurant hich delivers delicious authentic and homely ao cuisine. he

in-house cooking school means the staff know their stuff, so don’t be afraid to ask questions. Try the crispy bamboo shoots stuffed ith pork and vegetables or the ubi uitous uang rabang sausage, both are done very ell here. Sakarinne Road, 071 212 239, tamnaklao.net. Open 7 days breakfast 8.30am – 10.30am, lunch 11am – 3pm, dinner 5pm – 11pm.

• LES NAGAS – Lao. Dining at Les 3 Nagas is a distinctly local affair ith the restaurant housed both on the inviting terrace of the 3 Nagas Hotel and inside an adjacent colonial-style building. Executing both authentic Lao dishes and the chef’s original creations

ith a touch of French finesse this attractive lunch and dinner spot presents some of the finest food in to n. tart your meal ith the crisp and tangy Luang Prabang salad and round off with the black sticky rice for dessert. Happy hours 3pm – 6pm. Sakkaline Road, Ban Vat Nong, 071 253 888, 3-nagas.com. Open 7 days 6.30am – 10.30pm.

LUANG A ANG

• LA ELLE E O UE – Lao /Western. Housed in the grand Luang Say Residence, just outside the city centre, this upscale dining room exudes a warm, heritage ambience. The seasonal, healthy and creative menu changes uarterly and features a tempting selection of regional dishes from aos and further afield in outh ast sia. n on site fruit and vegetable garden means fresh ingredients are al ays at the kitchen’s fingertips. 4-5 Ban Phonepheng, 071 260 891, luangsayresidence.com. Open 7 days 6am – 10.30pm.

• A TOU – Lao /Western. A colourful hole in the wall on a uiet side street leading to the Mekong River. Chef oui began his

culinary journey as a waiter in Vientiane before working the kitchen at ’ lephant here he developed his passion for cooking. o head of the kitchen at his o n eatery oui serves up hearty ao and Western fare using fresh, local ingredients. Sisavangvatthana Road, Ban Xieng Mouane, 020 5657 6763, cafetoui.com. Open 7 days 6.30am – 10.30pm.

• ESTAU ANT L ELE HANT – French/Lao. L’Elephant is housed in a charming colonial building just steps away from the magnificent Mekong River. pecialising in traditional and creative French and Lao cuisine the kitchen places an emphasis on using organic, local produce which is grown in their own gardens a few kilometres out of town. Free WiFi. Kounxoa Road, Ban Vat Nong, 071 252 482, elephant-restau.com. Open 7 days 11.00am – 10pm.

| Les 3 Nagas. |

| Ai Capone. |

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A SE

• NA AO – French/Lao. great find in akse, adao offers fresh and flavoursome French bistro fare

and traditional ao dishes in a fine dining atmosphere. A little out of the city centre, its location hasn’t stopped locals and visitors alike from flocking to e perience some of the best gourmet dining in southern Laos.

he service is faultless and the o ner chef ill almost always be happy to suggest something from his repertoire. Near the Japanese Bridge (opposite the Champasak Grand Hotel), 021 213 174.

• LE ANO A A – Lao/International. As the name might suggest this leafy rooftop terrace, perched on the top floor of the otel akse, has the best vie s in town. Diners can take their pick from a range of cuisines including Lao, Thai and French. No matter what you’re eating the fact remains Le Panorama is the place to sit back, relax and take in a glorious sunset in Pakse, chilled Beerlao in hand optional. Street 5, Bane Watlouang, 031 212 131, hotelpakse.com.

• LAN HA NOO LE HOUSE – Lao. Attached to the an ham otel this noodle house is considered famous around these parts. Particularly popular with locals for breakfast you may have to fight for a spot an ham consistently produces huge steaming

bowls of noodle soup accompanied by heaped plates of fresh herbs and greens. Cheap and tasty, having this on your doorstep would be reason enough to stay at the neighbouring guest house. Street 13, Lakmeaumg Village. Open 7 days 6.30am – 1pm.

SAVANNA HET

• A HA EE – Japanese/Western. Fun little café housed in a sunshine-yellow building on the main street of avannakhet. Chai ee serves up a mi of apanese favourites including katsudon, sushi, cold noodle salad alongside fresh sandwiches and Thai curries. Cosy into a comfy armchair with a freshly brewed Lao coffee lounge on the sunny terrace ith an icy Chai ee Cooler. ccasional live music in the evenings. Free WiFi, book exchange. 1 Latsavongseuk Road, Lattanalansy Thai Village, 020 9179 2479, cafechaidee.com. Open Tuesday to Sunday 8.30am – 9.00pm.

• L N S A E – Asian/Café. A friendly tucked a ay eatery housed in a 19 0s building complete with original art-deco tiles. Located in the heart of historic downtown this is the perfect place to while away the afternoon with a fresh Lao coffee and tasty

ao ietnamese fare. n upstairs gallery e hibits photographs of old avannakhet. Free WiFi, tourist information, bicycle rental. Latsaphanit Road, Ban Xaiyaphoum Village, 020 9988 1630, lincafe.netau.net. Open 7 days 8.30am – 8.00pm.

| Cafe Chai Dee. |

• TA A N ESTAU ANT – Lao. Tamarind specialises in helping diners explore and learn about Lao cuisine and the traditions associated with it. Enjoy sampling platters or something from the a la carte menu with e planations and demonstrations from helpful staff and the am han River as a pictures ue backdrop. f you’re happy to be guided by the chef try one of the famed specialised feasts choices include Traditional ao Fish arbe ue, he dventurous ao ourmet and uang rabang

Family Dinner. Ban Wat Sene on the banks of the Nam Khan River, 071 213 128, tamarindlaos.com. Open Monday to Saturday 11am – 9pm.

LUANG A ANG

| Tamarind Restaurant. |

EAT Listing

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• LE T O O EE – Café. Le Trio Coffee is the latest addition to Vientiane’s buzzy café scene, with their boutique art deco-inspired shopfront.

n artisanal roaster since 2009, e rio roasts the finest ao sourced Arabica and Robusta beans with some of the best European equipment in-house. Now in their own café, guests can enjoy a brew on the sunny terrace, at the elegant salon-style bar, or pick up a bag of beans to enjoy at home. Setthathirath Road, 020 2255 3552, facebook.com/letriocoffee. Open Tuesday to Saturday 10am – 4pm.

V ENT ANE

• O ON G OUN S A AN A E – • O ON G OUN S A AN A E – • O ON G OUN S A AN A ECafé/Mexican. This family friendly café is the perfect place to kick back in a comfy armchair and refuel with a coffee and homemade cake while the kids enjoy the outdoor playground. Their organic coffee is sourced from Saffron in Luang Prabang which supports farmers to grow coffee instead of opium, so you won’t feel too guilty settling in for a second latte. Free Wi-Fi. Rue Chao Anou, 021 255 057, facebook.com/commongroundslaos. Open Monday to Saturday 7am – 8pm.

• O A A E A Café/Western. A name synonymous with the Vientiane café scene, each of Joma’s three Vientiane shopfronts provides tasty, fresh eats and organic fair trade coffee in a cosy, coffeehouse atmosphere. The friendly staff and speedy service make Joma a popular choice for those on-the-go while others tend to linger awhile over breakfast, lunch or any of the delicious in-house baked goods. Free Wi-Fi, delivery. Joma Namphou: Th. Setthathilath, Joma Phonthan: Th. Dongpalane, Joma That Luang: cnr Singha Rd/Nongbone Rd, delivery: 021 254 333, joma.biz. Open 7 days 7am – 9pm.

CAFÉ Listing

• A NO A – Café. A hidden, hip little gem perched on a bustling intersection, Café Nomad is a popular haunt for office orkers, embassy staff and those in the know. Their straightforward menu of coffee, juices, paninis and cakes may be small, but it’s all executed extremely well. Free Wi-Fi, public pc/printer/scanner. 1-342 Dongpalanthong, Sisattanak, 020 5434 9977, facebook.com/cafenomad.lao. Open Monday to Friday 8.30am – 7pm, Saturday and Sunday 9am – 6pm.

• NA E ES ESSO – Café. A popular place for a caffeine hit this light filled caf serves up some of the best brew in town. Naked Espresso is all about a combination of fine rabica beans sourced from outhern aos and Northern Thailand, well-trained baristas, friendly service and a orld class espresso machine. Free WiFi. Dongpalan Road, 021 454 631, nakedespressocafe.net. Open Tuesday to Friday 7am – 5pm, Saturday and Sunday 8am – 5pm.

• NO S U T HEAVEN – Shakes/Café. A cute and colourful hangout that is popular ith travellers,

oy and her team serve up fresh and fast fruit shakes and juices in a medley of tropical combinations. If you’re after something you can sink your teeth into

oy’s is great for flavoursome sand iches, raps and burgers – try the felafel pita stuffed with fresh salad and feta. 60/2 Rue Hengboun. Open 7 days 7am – 9pm.

• T UE O EE – Shakes/Café. The Vientiane flagship of the popular Thai chain has the slick,

estern style coffee house vibe do n pat. ut comfy sofas and speedy WiFi aside, the coffee here is excellent and comes in a myriad of piping hot and icy cold variations. ituated in the heart of do nto n Vientiane True Coffee is perfect for a quick caffeine hit on-the-go or a lengthy escape from the daily grind with one of their delicious selection of sweet treats. 111 Setthathirath Road, close to Nam Phu Fountain, 044 253 338.

| Begonia Café |

| Le Trio Coffee |

• EGON A A – Café. A cosy new coffee house in the That uang area, egonia serves up delicious affron brand coffee from uang rabang. Fans of vintage chic ill love the array of uirky trinkets

on display including old typewriters, retro phones and record players – and don’t forget to look up at the colourful umbrellas peppering the ceiling. on’t miss a slice of egonia’s signature crepe cake layer upon layer of delicate crepes sandwiched with a filling of your choice including mango and coconut. Soi 4 off Nongbone Road, 020 5555 50 2, facebook.com pages egonia Caf 124 6 954261514. pen Monday to Saturday 9am – 5.30pm.

LUANG A ANG

• LE A AN VAT SENE – • LE A AN VAT SENE – • LE A AN VAT SENE Café. Sitting pretty on the main street of tranquil Luang Prabang this elegant café-cum-restaurant combines the home-grown ingredients and cuisine of sister bistro L’Éléphant Restaurant with lighter café-style fare including a selection of delectable pastries. Free Wi-Fi. Sakarine Road, 071 252 482, elephant-restau.com/cafebanvatsenefr.html. Open 7 days 7am – 10pm.

• LE AT O A –• LE AT O A –• LE AT O A Lao/Café. – Lao/Café. – Housed in the grounds of the Traditional Arts and Ethnology Centre this intimate eatery offers a range of dishes from northern Lao ethnic minorities, making it the perfect stop after immersing yourself in Lao culture next door. Located at the base of Phou Si Hill patrons will enjoy a unique vantage point of this distinctive attraction. Free Wi-Fi. Ban Khamyong, le_patio@elephant-restau.com, elephant-restau.com/lepatiocafe.html. Open 7 days 9am – 5pm.

• THE S L OA A – Lao. Bringing an east meets west philosophy to the kitchen the Silk Road Café combines regional flavours, local ingredients and ideas from cuisines the silk road passed through. Set against a backdrop of the Mekong River this open-air café is housed on the grounds of the Ock Pop Tok Living Crafts Centre making it the perfect spot to grab coffee and a bite after an on-site weaving workshop or demonstration. Ock Pop Tok Living Crafts Centre, Ban Saylom, 071 212 597, ockpoptok.com. Open 7 days 8am – 5pm.

A SE• S NOU O EE AN A E –• S NOU O EE AN A E –• S NOU O EE AN A E Café. A Lao legacy, the well-known Sinouk Coffee empire has grown from its humble beginnings as a small plantation in the 1990s to a 50 hectare estate and is turning heads across Asia. Pakse’s Sinouk Coffee and Bakery outpost serves up delicious cups of Sinouk’s signature organic blend which comes direct from the farm in Paksong to the table. Free Wi-Fi. Pakse centre, near the Tourism

ffice, sinouk cafe.com.

SAVANNA HET• A HE OUNE – Café/Western. Drawing crowds for great European fare, impressive décor and charming atmosphere, Café Chez Boune is a popular spot for dining out in Savannakhet. Opt for something light such as a tasty bruschetta or baguette or if you’re looking for something more substantial the seared duck breast or tender imported steaks are a good choice. Chaimeuang Road, Xayaphoum Village, 041 215 190, cafechezboune.com. Open 7 days 7am – 10pm.

| The Silk Road Café | | The Silk Road Café |

| Sinouk Coffee and Bakery |

CAFÉ Listing

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April 12 has risen to eminence as one of ientiane’s favourite bars among both locals and foreigners, mostly because there’s always something new happening. Follow the bar on Facebook (www.facebook.com/april12.restaurant) to see regular updates ith creatively themed parties. The excellent food is mostly Vietnamese, but the menu does include some foreign and Lao items.

Located on the edge of the Mekong just before the Don Chan Palace hotel, April 12 has been designed to capitalise on its premiere location. The ground floor features a moodily lit bar and dance floor, but the rooftop is the main attraction. The tables are kept separate from each other with walls of leafy pot plants. There’s a second bar on the roof that serves cocktails,

ine and a fe varieties of beer.

The bar has recently launched a nightly wine and beer buffet.

very day bet een 5pm and 11pm, pay just 149,000 kip

per person for as much of your favourite ine as you can drink or 96,000 kip for your beer of choice. f you’ve got a big night planned, that’s good value for money!

Weekly dance classes are held on the bottom floor. Come on Thursdays at 9pm for paid Salsa lessons, or at the same time on uesdays for free achata classes. The teachers are professional and welcoming of all skill levels, including complete beginners!

April 12 Open Monday-Saturday 5pm-1amA: Fa Ngum Road, Vientiane (across from the Don Chan Palace hotel) T: 020 7798 5444

words James Elton-Pym photos Subsin Sinuvong

There are few better places to watch the sun set over the Mekong than from the leafy rooftop beer garden of April 12. Its perfect location, range of offbeat activities and fantastic deals on drinks have made the bar one of the most popular in Vientiane.

ຕາເວນຕກດນ ແລະ ເຕນຊລຊາ

ທ ເອພຣວ 12ເຖງວາຈະມຮານບາງບອນທເໝາະກບການນງເບງຕາເວນຕກດນຢແຄມຂອງຫາຍ ກວາຢເທງດາດຟາຂອງຮານເອພຣວ 12, ແຕສງທເຮດໃຫເອພຣວ 12 ພເສດກວາ ບອນອນ ແມນສະຖານທອນເໝາະເຈາະ, ກດຈະກ�ທໂດດເດນ ແລະ ແຕກຕາງ, ພອມເຄອງດມອນຫາກຫາຍໃນລາຄາຍອມເຍາ ເຊງໄດເຮດໃຫບາແຫງນ ກາຍເປນ ໜງໃນບນດາບາທມຊສຽງທສດໃນວຽງຈນ.

ຮບພາບ ໂດຍ ຊບສນ ສນວງ ບດຄວາມ ໂດຍ ເຈມສ ເອລຕນ-ພມ

HIGHLIGHTDrink

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ເອພຣວ 12 ໄດກາຍມາເປນບາທຫາຍໆຄນມກ ບວາຈະເປນຄນລາວຫຄນ ຕາງປະເທດ ເນອງຈາກວາຢຮານນ ແມນມສງໃໝໆເກດຂນຢຕະຫອດເວລາ. ທານສາມາດເຂາໄປຕດຕາມ ຮານໄດຢໃນເຟສບກ (www.facebook.com/april12.restaurant) ເພອອບເດດກດ ຈະກ�ບນເທງ ແລະ ງານປາຕສງສນອນແປກໃໝ ທຈດຂນເລອຍໆຢທຮານເອພຣວ 12. ອາຫານທຂນຊຢຮານນ ສວນຫາຍ ແມນອາຫານຫວຽດນາມ ແຕຢໃນເມນກຍງລວມມອາ ຫານຕາງປະເທດ ແລະ ອາຫານລາວຈ�ນວນໜງໃຫທານໄດເລອກຮບປະທານ.

ເອພຣວ 12 ຕງຢຢາງໂດດເດນ ກບສະຖານທອນເໝາະເຈາະ ຢແຄມແມນ�ຂອງ ກອນຈະຮອດ ໂຮງແຮມດອນຈນພາເລສ. ຊນລມຂອງຮານເປນບາ ແລະ ເວທເຕນລ� ກບແສງໄຟອນ ມດໆມວໆ, ແຕຈດດງດດໃຈຫກໆແມນຢເທງດາດຟາ. ໂຕະຢເທງແມນຖກຈດແບງອອກເປນ ສວນໆ ດວຍຕນໄມອນຂຽວງາມ, ແລະ ຢຊນເທງດາດຟາກຍງມບາອກບາໜງ ທເສບຄອກເທລ, ວາຍ ແລະ ເບຍຫາກຫາຍຍຫໃຫທານໄດເລອກດມ.

ຫາສດນ ທາງຮານກໄດເປດຕວ ບບເຟວາຍ ແລະ ບບເຟເບຍ ສ�ລບທກໆຄ�ຄນ. ໃນລະຫວາງ 5ໂມງແລງ ຫາ 11ໂມງກາງຄນ ຂອງທກໆມ, ທານສາມາດດມດ�ກບວາຍຫາກຫາຍຊະນດໄດ ແບບບມຈ�ກດ ພຽງແຕທານຈາຍ 149,000 ກບຕຄນ, ຫ ຖາທານມກດມເບຍ ກສາມາດດມໄດ ຫາຍເທາທທານຈະດມໄດໃນລາຄາພຽງ 96,000 ກບຕທານ. ຖາທານມແຜນຈດໜກໃນຄ�ຄນນ ກສາມາດໄປດມທເອພຣວ 12 ໄດເລຍ ເພາະຖວາຄມຄາຄມລາຄາຫາຍ!

ນອກນນແລວ ທາງຮານຍງມການສອນເຕນລ�ທກໆອາທດ ຢຊນລມຂອງຮານ. ທານ ສາມາດມາໄດທກໆວນພະຫດເວລາ 9ໂມງກາງຄນ ເພອຮຽນເຕນຊລຊາໂດຍ ເສຍຄາຮຽນ, ຫ ວາຈະມາຮຽນເຕນບາຊາຕາຟຣກໄດ ທກໆວນອງຄານ. ບນດາອາຈານທ ສອນຢນແມນ ເປນມອາຊບທງໝດ ແລະ ເພນກຕອນຮບນກຮຽນທກໆຂນ ລວມໄປເຖງຜທຫາກເລມເຕນລ�ໃໝໆນ�!

ເອພຣວ 12ເປດ ວນຈນ-ວນເສາ, 5ໂມງແລງ-1ໂມງກາງຄນທຢ: ຖະໜນ ຟາງມ: ນະຄອນຫວງວຽງຈນ (ກງກນຂາມໂຮງແຮມດອນຈນພາເລສ)ໂທ: 020 7798 5444

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BAR Listing

V ENT ANE• HO EE A ELG AN EE A – Bar/Belgian. This cosy pub, decorated with Tin Tin paraphernalia, is the place to come if you’ve got a hankering for Hoegaarden or any of the other 79 imported Belgian beers they keep. Huge steaming pots of moules frites attract big crowds every Friday, Saturday and Sunday. Free WiFi, beer specials on Thursdays. 32/4 Fa Gnum Quai (along the Mekong River front), 020 5610 3434, chokdeecafe.com. Open 7 days 10am – 11pm.

• ST NGE S – Bar/Western/Lao. Sticky’s, as it’s more affectionately known, is a long-time expat institution drawing big crowds for their legendary happy hour on Wednesday and Friday nights. The bartenders make a mean Tom Yum Martini which, refreshingly piquant, comes complete with a whole chilli garnish. Free WiFi, delivery. 10 Rue Francois ginn, 021 215 972. Open Monday to Friday 5pm – 11pm, Saturday and Sunday 10am – 11pm.

• EA A – Wine/Tapas Modern and casual this intimate bar combines an excellent drop of red or white with seasonal share plates like dainty cro uettes, marinated vegetables and an inventive take on nachos con carne. eam bu es on Wednesday

nights hen ladies receive half price ine by the glass. ive a on hursday nights. Free WiFi, lunch buffet daily.

88 Setthathirath Road, 021 254 523, facebook.com/ibeamvientiane. pen 7 days 11am 11pm.

• ONG V E ESTAU ANT AN A – Bar/Asian. A contemporary Lao-style house with a leafy open air deck utting right out to the Mekong River. Enjoy a cocktail or a beer at sunset then while away the evening under the stars and colourful lanterns on the terrace nibbling on some of the selection of Lao and hai inspired share plates. 1 ouphanouvong Road, om 1 an ongpanay, 021 520 522, kongvie .com.

• SU TE O TA L A AN LOUNGE – Cocktail. hip nightspot serving up some of the best cocktails in town and in trendy mason jars no less. Try their lychee or passionfruit spin on the classic mojito and chill out ith a flavoured shisha of hich they have an e tensive range of flavours. uite21 also stocks a range of imported beer including the ever elusive Corona chilled to perfection and done right with a wedge of lime. Free WiFi. an honesavang bet een tar ub and Sai Jai Restaurant), 020 7813 1399, facebook.com/Suite21Vientiane. Open Tuesday to Sunday 7.30pm – 12.30am.

• THE S T HOUSE – Bar/Lao/Western. An inviting meeting point ith a spra ling terrace looking onto the Mekong River. he cocktail list is e tensive ith quality liquors preferred, perfect for a sundowner paired with tasty Lao bar snacks. It’s located on a quiet stretch of the waterfront which makes for a peaceful breakfast or afternoon drink before it busies up in the evening. Free WiFi. 9 09 Fa gum Road, an eetarn eua, 021 24 795, thespirithouselaos.com, info@thespirithouselaos.com. Open 7 days 7am – 11pm.

| I-Beam Bar |

| Kop Chai Deu |

• NE – Wine. Whether you’re after a full-bodied red or a dry hite Wine95 is the last ord in ine service in ientiane. pon entry it is evident these guys kno their stuff with a slick, fully stocked cellar bar complete

ith the iWine ervice ystem guaranteeing a fresh drop in every glass. staircase leads to an intimate upstairs space with elegant lounges and objects d’art. Setthathirat Road (next to Phimphone), 020 5550 2957, facebook.com/Wine95. Open Monday to Saturday 5pm – 12am.

• O EN N ANG – Bar/Western/Lao. This casual rooftop bar attracts an eclectic crowd of locals, seasoned e pats and backpackers all ho vie for a prime position along the balcony to watch the sunset over the Mekong River ith a eerlao nam kohn. Once the night comes things tend to kick up a notch with parties hitting the pool tables and beer towers. Fa Ngum Road, Wat Chanh, 020 5580 8281. Open 7 days 11am – 12am.

• A – Bar. With its exposed brickwork, moody lighting and distinct vintage look decor he a y

rick e udes effortless cool. he friendly staff make a mean cocktail and can usually make a recommendation from the e tensive menu and the ine list is ell edited. Setthathirat Road (next to Wine95), 021 212 489, facebook.com/jazzybricklao. Open 7 days 6pm – 12am.

• THE H GHLAN ESTAU ANT A –Sports bar. Casual and relaxed open-air sports bar

ith vie s of the Mekong River. ra ing huge cro ds for rugby, football and soccer matches all broadcast live on big screen televisions, the menu includes ao, pi a and pub style fare perfect for ravenous sports fans. hamkhong Road, an hounta, 020 7759 4971, highlandbar.com.

• SENGTA AN OO TO A – Bar. Sitting pretty on the top floor of the engta an Riverside otel this rooftop terrace en oys one of the most pictures ue vie s of the Mekong River. ituated on the riverfront, a little out of the downtown action, this laidback spot is perfect for a lo key afternoon or evening of drinks and dinner. an Sithan Neua, 021 219 362, sengtawan.com. Open 7 days.

• O HA EU – Bar/Lao/Western. Kop Chai eu have hit the nail on the head ith their slogan the place here the orld meets’, on any given night the oldest and arguably best-located bar in Vientiane brings together locals, e pats and travellers ith refreshing drinks, good food and nightly live music. ry to nab a spot on the upper level decking to en oy the sultry ao evenings. Free WiFi. 54 Setthathirat Road (next to Nam Phu fountain), 021 251 564, facebook.com/KhopChaiDeu.

| The Spirit House |

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5 1

LUANG A ANG

• TANGO – Bar/Tapas. Contemporary chic meets colonial charm at this intimate spot on Luang Prabang’s main stretch. Tangor specialises in impeccably crafted cocktails and a generous selection of local and imported beers and ciders. Market produce dictates the everchanging menu of share plates but luckily for us their standout fish ceviche is a mainstay. ouse 6 6 Rue

usavangvong, 020 9560 7262, resa@letangor.com. Open 7 days 11am – 11pm.

• A – Cocktail. Capturing the essence of a traditional colonial café this light and airy salon-style cocktail bar welcomes patrons with classic well-worn chesterfields, an inviting terrace and a marble fireplace in cooler months. The bar draws on inspiration from its home at the Luang Say Residence with a heritage theme featuring displays of old-world maps of Laos, hunting e cursions and botanical studies. n oy fine ines from around the world and a range of enticing cocktails prepared with top-shelf spirits in this sophisticated and ambient venue. 4 5 an honepheng, 071 260 91, luangsayresidence.com. Open 7 days 9am – 11pm.

• H VE A AN ESTAU ANT – Bar/American. his vibrant garden bar is best kno n for its snappy cocktails, e tensive beer and ine list and for serving up home style southern favourites.

rab a beer and try the mahogany smoked ribs or pulled pork sand ich. ightly live entertainment includes thnik a live fashion sho of ethnic minority costumes and hip hop performed by local b-boys.

ar treet, an phay, 020 5999 5 70, hivebarlaos.com. Open Monday to Saturday 7am – 12am, Sunday 10am – 12am.

• ON LU – Cocktail. This cosy bohemian haunt attracts a creative cro d, and elcomes live music, and hosts open mic poetry nights. Icon’s walls are adorned ith vintage posters and film noir stills and punters are most likely to be seen sipping a brilliantly made cocktail try the loody Mary or a dry martini over a game of chess or retro board game. Free WiFi.

iphouttabath Road, an iengmouan, 071 254 905, iconklub.com. Open 7 days 5pm – 11.30pm.

• UTO A – Bar/Lao/Western. Hidden on the lush banks of the am han river amongst charming tropical gardens and thatched decking Utopia has perfected laid back paradise. Patrons can languidly sip tropical cocktails on the cushioned terrace watching the river go by, play a board game ith neighbours or party into the night in a tiki hut. an phay, 020 2388 1771, utopialuangprabang.com. Open 7 days 8am – 11.30pm.

| Tangor |

| Tangor |

VIENTIANE

RELAX Listing

• A NA S A This experienced spa team provides the ultimate pampering. Unlike many others spas, they provide Japanese traditional massages, Indian massages and a Hot Stone Massage. The facials are amongst the most advanced in the city. Higher-end prices. 170 Phonsaath, Kaysone Road, 021 414 138, 9am-10pm, www.adinaspalao.com.

• HA A S A ASSAGE Champa has two locations in town within serene, quiet surroundings. Tradit ional Lao Massage, Herbal Treatments, Aromatherapy Massage and Body Steams have a range of lengths and prices. There is also a hand and foot spa, and waxing services. Among the best in Vientiane. Corner of Fa Ngum and Pangkham Roads, near Nam Phu, 021 251 926, 9am-10pm, www.champaspa.com.

• ALAH S A Luxurious Dalah Spa have a mineral milk • ALAH S A Luxurious Dalah Spa have a mineral milk • ALAH S Abath, anti-stress back and shoulder treatments, the Four Hands Massage and sports massage for those exerting themselves. Located on a quiet lane just off the main road. 140 Khouvieng Road, 021 285 125, 9am-9pm.

• G A S A You’ve got to travel to Rashmi’s Hotel, 3km from the city centre, to reach Giriya, but that’s small sacrifice for the a aiting e perience. here’s an ndian atmosphere reflected in the decoration, while Thai masseuses give excellent massages in private rooms. Soon open to membership. Rashmi’s Hotel, Thadeua Road Km3, 021 315 088, www.rashmishotel.com.

• ANEE S A About 4km from the city centre, Manee Spa offers consistently good massages in a tranquil setting. There are several private rooms with quality tables and a tasteful interior. It’s on the higher price scale but the setting with beautiful gardens is second to none. Sokpaluang Road, past the Myanmar Embassy, 021 353 207.

• N OLA ASSAGE This is just a 5-minute walk from the Mekong in the centre of town and they offer advanced massage and body therapies, as well as the traditional foot and body massages. The owners are very friendly and can further elaborate on options available. 45 Settathirath Road, 9am-11pm.

• N VANA S A The head and back massage is particularly good but it’s possible to get a combination of several treatments. The delightful honey body wrap could be combined with aromatic skin massage, followed by a herbal skin polish. Pangkham Road, facing Lao Plaza Hotel, 021 222 936, 10am-9pm, www.nirvana-spa-laos.com.

• A A A S A The setting in an old French colonial villa is charm enough, but inside the opulence is even greater. They’ve a Swedish oil massage, offer facials, body scrubs, refle ology and saunas. t’s definitely one of the pricier in the capital, but well worth it to rela in a state of pure lu ury for a fe hours. hanya Sy Road, 021 216 550, 9.30am-7.30pm Tue-Sun, www.papayaspa.com.

• H TE LOTUS ASSAGE OGA White otus gives e cellent foot massages in rela ing

leather recliners. It’s one of the more affordable yet consistent massage businesses in town and has a great aromatherapy massage. Try the signature lotus foot massage or the Cleopatra treatment with gold masque for 200,000kip – heavenly. Also does yoga instruction. Pangkham Road, close to Nam Phu, 021 217 492, 10am-10pm.

| Papaya Spa |

| Dalah Spa |

• G EEN A HA A LAO S A This hotel-based spa is walled-in with dark woods and has snow white beds with trinkets on lockers and candles burning for soft light. They’ve got traditional massage, body e foliation and e pert facial treatments for guests and visitors. Foot massages take place in comfy recliners with a view to the gardens. Green Park Hotel, 12 Khouvieng Road, 021 263 064, 10am-7pm, www.greenparkvientiane.com.

• HEAL NG HAN S ASSAGE S A Located within Don Chan Palace Hotel on the Mekong Riverfront. hey offer refle ology, natural aromatherapy oil massages

and Lao hot herbal compress treatments within a spacious and warmly coloured parlour. Don Chan Palace Hotel, Fa Ngum Road, 021 244 288, 10am-7pm, www.donchanpalacelaopdr.com.

• HE AL SAUNA This establishment has Lao style herbal saunas for men and women in separate rooms. It also offers different massages including Lao, oil and foot. Entrance fees include a towel for men but women must rent a sarong for a small fee. Located very close to the Mekong in central Vientiane. Chao Anou Road, 020 5504 5655, 1pm-9pm.

• AN A NA O SOUL S A Another one of many in the centre of ientiane, but definitely among the best. The staff is friendly and there’s a few packages to choose from. Otherwise, the Traditional Lao massage is very popular and the Swedish massage is also well worth a try. Pangkham Road, near Nam Phu, 021 223 857, 10am-9.30pm.

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| Kiridara Spa |

LUANG A ANG

• A U S A At Xieng Thong Palace Hotel, Ayu Spa is massage and body treatment heaven. Holistic practices performed by experienced therapists are a perfect way to slip into true relaxation. You could spend a half-day sampling the variety of massage and sauna/steam options, while a pedicure or manicure ties a few hours off. Kounxaou Road, Ban Phoneheung, 071 213 200, www.xiengthongpalace.com.

• HA A A OAS S ASSAGE Tucked away beside a beautiful lotus pond and surrounded by coconut trees, Dhammada provides exceptional massages. There are aroma, oriental and foot massages to ease body tensions and bigger packages to spend a few hours. Very friendly and experienced staff makes Dhammada one of the best in town. Luang Prabang Oasis Hotel, Ban Vixoun, 071 212 642, www.luangprabangoasis.com.

• O HA A ASSAGE Fully trained and ualified massage therapists mean ok Champa is

an excellent place to relieve stress. They offer sports, aromatic oil, and gel and lotion massage. There are also deep cleansing facials for those looking for complete body rejuvenation. Visounarath Road, Ban Vixoun, 020 7777 9966, www.dokchampamassage.com.

• A A S A Kiridara Spa’s signature treatment is the Nuat Bouhan Massage, which lasts 90 minutes and fuses ancient Lao traditions with the regional therapies of Japanese Shiatsu, Thai massage and Chinese acupuncture. They’ve got many packages to choose from and the view over Luang Prabang is stunning. 22/13 North Road, Ban Naviengkham, 071 261 888, www.snhcollection.com/kiridara.

• LAO E OSS Popular with health conscious locals and tourists alike, the Lao Red Cross Traditional Sauna and Massage provides quality, age-old therapies in a newly renovated colonial-era house opposite Vat Visoun. Try the herbal steam bath (10,000 kip) and unwind with a therapeutic oil massage (from 50,000 kip per hour . ll profits support disaster relief and community development. Opposite Vat Visoun, 071 252 856, 7 days 1pm-9pm.

• LUANG A ANG OGA This collective runs classes in yoga and meditation for beginner and e perienced practitioners. he group alternates their regular classes between several picturesque riverside locations including Utopia and Ock Pop Tok and holds yoga retreats at Mandala Ou Resort in Nong Khiaw. luangprabangyoga.org.

• L H S US S A Across from Wat Sop, L’Hibiscus has been open for several years and rated amongst the best in town. Hot herbal compress, aromatherapy and even eye treatments are on the menu. L’Hibiscus is in a charming old t o storey building and e udes a soothing atmosphere. 45 Sakhaline Road, 030 923 5079, 10am-10pm.

• SAN TUA ASSAGE This is the place to try a superb Thai herbal compress massage. Sanctuary applies steamed Thai and Chinese herbs to the body in a kneading action to release muscle tension and stiffness. There are also aroma and oriental massages in calming rooms. Sanctuary Hotel, Kitsalat Road, 071 213777, www.sanctuaryluangprabang.com.

• THE S A GA EN Spread over three locations, The Spa Garden (also known as Aroma Spa) has a deep tissue massage, a Mystic Lao massage and a foot massage with herbal creams amongst its signature treatments. Spa products also available for purchase. Ban Phonheuang, 071 212325, 10am-11pm, www.spagardenlpb.com.

| Lao Red Cross |

5 3

VIENTIANE

SEE & DO Listing

• O E V S TO ENT E – Museum.Cooperative Orthotic and Prosthetic Enterprise, or COPE, is a locally run non profit orking ith partners to provide rehabilitation services for Unexploded Ordnance (UXO) survivors and other people ith disabilities across aos. The Visitor Centre houses a free exhibition about UXO in aos, stories from survivors and information on the services provided by C . nteractive displays, e cellent documentaries and imagery provide a thought provoking e perience to visitors. here is an opportunity to support C through the gift shop or a donation. Centre of Medical Rehabilitation, houvieng Road, 021 21 427, 9am 6pm, 7 days, .copelaos.org.

• A T TO NA NGU LA E – Tour. The perfect way to get back to nature while staying close to your base in Vientiane, Green Discovery Laos takes you to the Nam Ngum Resevoir. En route on this guided day trip participants ill get a first hand look at Hmong village life to meet locals and visit the market before taking in the 11th century archaeological site of an ang. t the reservoir you’ll lunch on a floating

restaurant and explore fishing villages and small islands by boat before returning to Vientiane. For more information visit greendiscoverylaos.com.

• O A TO A ET – Tour. Local tour guides Tuk Tuk Safari specialise in small group educational and interactive tours of Vientiane and surrounds. On this tour patrons will visit the Panyanivej Eco Rice and Fish Farm to have a hand at traditional ao fishing, rice planting and other farm activities before

using fresh farm ingredients to cook a traditional Lao lunch. 020 5433 3089, tours run daytime from Monday to Saturday, www.tuktuksafari.com.

| Cope Visitor Centre |

| Lao Experiences Cooking Class and Food Tours |

| i:cat gallery |

• HOUE HONG VO AT ONAL T A N NG ENT E O O EN – Class/Craft. The Centre

provides training and employment for disadvantaged Lao women in the areas of natural dyeing, weaving, tailoring and administration. Visitors can tour the facilities and take part in dyeing and weaving classes creating a unique textile to take home, the cost of which includes transfers, lunch and provides direct support to the Centre. The gift shop sells stylish products made on-site by staff and trainees. Lane 19, Houey Hong Village, 021 560 006, Mon-Sat 8.30am–12pm, 1.30pm–4.30pm, www.houeyhongcentre.com.

• AT GALLE – Gallery. A bright and inviting gallery space featuring a revolving programme of engaging exhibitions from local artists working in a range of mediums. A collection of original prints, art books, photography, paintings and handmade cards are permanently for sale in the gallery space and past installations and events have included visual art, music, poetry, film and fashion. 2 0 2 1 hanon ettathirath, Ban Simeuang, 020 7783 9674, Mon-Fri 6pm–8pm, Sat-Sun 1pm-6pm, www.facebook.com/icatgallery.

• LAO O L NG ENT E – Activity. A friendly place for a game of ten pin by day this unassuming venue is an evening hot spot ith cro ds flocking here once the regular haunts close. Get here in the early evening if you actually plan to get in a few rounds because by eight o’clock this joint is packed with locals having a laugh over Beerlao and interesting bowling techniques. But bor pen nyang, half the fun is kicking back with friends and waiting for a free lane. There are also snooker tables available for hire. Boulevard Khunbulom (near the National Stadium), 9am–late, 7 days.

• LAO SA LE O EN S EVELO ENT ENT E – Tour/Craft. A local non-profit run

by women w i th d isab i l i t i es fo r women w i th disabilities. In a beautiful setting near the Lao-Thai Friendship Bridge the Centre is a hive of activity with training programmes including sewing and needlework, social development and women’s civ i l r ights. V is i tors can tour the centre, buy locally-made handicrafts including accessories, fashion i tems and homewares and learn how they are made. Thadeua Road, Hadsayfong Distr ict , 021 812282, 8.30am–5pm, 7 days, www.laodisabledwomen.com.

| Lao Disabled Women's Development Centre |

• LAO E E EN ES OO NG LASS AN OO TOU S – Class/Tour. Join friendly host Nook

as she teaches you to cook popular Lao dishes with fresh ingredients and traditional methods. These fun and interactive classes are held in a leafy garden kitchen by the Mekong River, the perfect setting to throw together a tasty laap or mok pa (banana leaf steamed fish all of hich you’ll devour at the end of class. he additional tour of the largest fresh market in Vientiane is great for those new to Lao ingredients. Bookings at The Full Moon Café or via lao-experiences.com, 020 5569 9429. Classes and Market Tours conducted daily.

• V ENT ANE LE – Tour. Explore Vientiane on two wheels in either a guided half or full-day tour allowing you to uncover a different side to the city. You’ll follow the gentle curve of the Mekong River to explore nearby scenic villages and observe fishermen and local temples. Back in the city centre you’ll pass touristic highlights like glittering temples, the grand Presidential Palace, Patuxai and That Luang while also venturing off the beaten path to capture scenes of Lao daily life in sleepy residential areas. 020 5581 2337, Tours run daily 8am to 5pm, www.vientianebycycle.com.

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LUANG A ANG

| Traditional Arts and Ethnology Centre.|

• LUANG A ANG OGA Class. Luang Prabang Yoga is a cooperative of independent yoga teachers who offer yoga in the city’s most beautiful locations. Classes are held at Utopia Bar and Ock Pop Tok Living Crafts Centre. 90 minute classes are 50,000kip for the expat/traveller and 30,000 kip for locals. 60 minute classes are 30,000kip for expat/travellers and 20,000 for Lao. Check their website for timetables. www.luangprabangyoga.org

| Ock Pop Tok Living Crafts Centre|

• T A T ONAL A TS AN ETHNOLOG ENT E– Museum/Craft. Housed in a renovated heritage building at the foot of Phou Si hill TAEC is a museum dedicated to the promotion of the culture and knowledge of Laos’ diverse ethnic communities. Several permanent and rotating cultural exhibitions showcase artefacts, traditional art and clothing of Lao ethnic groups and give insight into the diversity and richness of the country. The gorgeous museum shop which keeps handicrafts from village artisans is well worth a look. Guided tours available for an additional fee. Ban Khamyong (behind Dara Market), 071 253 364, taeclaos.org. Open Tuesday to Sunday 9am – 6pm.

• ELE HANT V LLAGE – • ELE HANT V LLAGE – • ELE HANT V LLAGE Tour. et up close to magnificent pachyderms at this tourist destination operated by international specialists and volunteers who aim to rescue, protect and rehabilitate elephants in Laos. There are a myriad of activities on offer for visitors including thrilling elephant rides, bathing elephants in the Nam Kahn River, a basic mahout training course and feedings. You can also stay overnight in on-site accommodation, aptly named the Elephant Lodge. To book and for more information visit elephantvillage-laos.com. Tours run 7 days.

• O O TO L V NG A TS ENT E – • O O TO L V NG A TS ENT E – • O O TO L V NG A TS ENT E Class/Craft. Take part in a fun hands-on workshop and learn traditional weaving and dying techniques from skilled Lao artisans at this handicrafts centre set in lush tropical gardens overlooking the Mekong River. A variety of classes suitable for a range of skill levels are on offer or you could visit the weaving centre for a free tour and observe weavers at their craft. Ban Saylom (opposite Phousi Market), 071 212 597, 9am–5pm, 7 days, www.ockpoptok.com.

• TA A N OO NG S HOOL – Class. This popular cooking class, run by the restaurant of the same name, has been schooling students in the art of laap for years. articipants ill first check out ingredients at a local fresh market then head to Tamarind’s lake-side cooking school to cook and, more importantly, eat. The menu consists of a range of Lao classics including jeow spicy dipping sauces and Tamarind’s signature chicken and herb-stuffed lemongrass. To book and for more information visit tamarindlaos.com. Full day classes Mon-Sat 9am–3pm, evening classes Mon-Fri 4pm–8.30pm.

• LUANG A ANG LATES Class. This group organises beginner/intermediate Pilates classes several times per week. Mat classes take place at Mekong Yoga Studio in Ban Aphai and at a hotel near Dara Market. Private and individual sessions also available. Their website is the best source of current information. www.luangprabangpilates.com

| Elephant Village |

| Luang Prabang Yoga | | Luang Prabang Yoga |

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A SE

• O E S O EE O SHO A SONG – Tour. Explore Southern Laos’ renowned coffee country and see just how beans make it into your morning cup of oe. ou ill visit offie’s o n organic coffee plantation

and farm when you’ll see arabica growing, picked, then learn about the husking and drying processes. After lunch you’ll get hands-on in roasting arabica beans yourself and bre yourself a flavourful cup of aromatic ava. For more information visit paksong.info/laos_coffee_workshop.php, 020 2276 0439, coffee@paksong.info.

• S NOU O EE ESO T – Garden. A must-see if you’re travelling through the Bolaven Plateau, Sinouk is a name synonymous with coffee in Laos. Surrounding the resort are palatial landscaped gardens which include coffee plants, rock gardens, a lake and waterfalls. Visitors can enjoy a signature locally grown cup of coffee from Sinouk’s nearby plantation in the pavilion restaurant or cafe. For more information visit sinoukcoffeeresort.com.

• T EE TO E LO E AT UNGLE HOTEL A SONG – Tour. Green Discovery Laos lead an

unforgettable adventure in an unparalleled South East Asian mountain forest setting of Champassak province. This tour is not for the faint-hearted with zip-lining over gorges and waterfalls and breathtaking views from a canopy walkway leading to great fun in a stunning environment. Retire to the Jungle Hotel Paksong a cluster of private treehouses set amongst the lush forest. he ultimate e perience in nature. For more information visit greendiscoverylaos.com.

| Sinouk Coffee Resort |

| Tree Top Explorer |

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VIENTIANE

SHOP Listing

| Carol Cassidy Textiles |

• LAO NE A TS HAN A T E ELLE Superbly crafted, resplendent jewellery made from wood, coconut and silver can be bought here. Other contemporary and more traditional items can also be purchased. 550/01 Thatluang Tai Village, Saysettha District, 020 5542 6993, 9.30am-5.30pm.

• N GHT A ET Drawing hordes of tourists and locals to the riverside each evening you simply can’t miss the two rows of red-topped marquees along the waterfront mingling with smoky food stalls and mountainous balloon displays. The wares on sale may be aimed predominately towards tourists (think t-shirts, trinkets and Buddhist inspired art) but locals shop here too and there are plenty of bargains to be had. Mekong riverfront, Fa Ngum Road, Sunset-9pm, 7 days.

• SAO AN A TS A treasure trove of handmade handicrafts created by over 300 artisans from villages across aos. n store you’ll find uni ue oven baskets and textiles, exquisite homewares and contemporary jewellery with most goods crafted from natural dyes, local bamboo and organically grown cotton and proceeds going back to the artist. 97/1 Chao Anou Road, Mon-Sat 9am–8pm, Sun 1pm–8pm, www.saobancrafts.com.

• T SHO LA GALLE A delightful gallery and crafts store featuring works from local and visiting artists and producing and selling the Les Artisans Lao range of organic skincare and beauty products. The range includes luscious body creams and soaps, all-natural repellents and aromatic oils. Vat Inpeng Street, 021 223 178, Mon-Sat 8am–8pm, Sun 10am–6pm, www.artisanslao.com.

| T’Shop Lai Gallery |

5 7

• A OL ASS TE T LES Intricate traditional Lao textiles are displayed in this beautiful gallery-workshop whose local weavers have exhibited in US museums. Carol works alongside local weavers to produce some incredibly complex and attractive pieces, specialising in 100% hand-woven silk. Noekummane Road, Ban Mixay, Mon-Fri 8am-12pm & 2pm-5pm, Sat 8am-12pm, www.laotextiles.com.

• NE TH NGS Radiant silks and authentic handicrafts line the walls of Finer hings. he shop, set over t o floors, has a flo ing selection of traditional ao skirts, colourful silks and figurines made from the delicate material. 4 0

Francois Ngin Road, 9am-6.30pm.

• N ST O S L he Ministry of ilk displays a vast array of fine men’s and women’s clothing, fashion accessories, jewellery and handbags. he label is aos’ first ready to ear collection and this flagship is one of

the most prestigious stores in Vientiane, serving champagne and wine to customers. 99/01 Nam Phou Square, 021 213 776, 9am-9pm, 7 days, www.ministryofsilk.com.

• ONU ENT OO S Monument ooks has good si ed fiction and regional literature sections, as well as children’s travel, arts and history shelves. Travel guidebooks are available and Southeast Asian newspapers and international magazines are just inside the door. Nokeokoummane Road, 021 243 708, Mon-Fri 9am-8pm, Sat-Sun 9am-6pm, www.monument-books.com.

LUANG A ANG• HOS A ET A small distance away from the centre of town lies Phosi Market. This space sees every smell, sound and sight stake a corner as meat, spices, fresh vegetables, and fruits live side by side with those selling phones, watches and house wares. If you’re after a glimpse of local life, don’t miss this. Photisalath Road, south of Phou Vao Rd, 7am-5pm.

• A A A TS his is a non profit self help pro ect that supports village women by providing a space for them to sell their goods to a wider audience. Handmade products show off traditional patterns and craft techniques and make excellent mementos or gifts. Ounkham Road, Ban Wath Nong, Luang Prabang, 071 254594, www.camacrafts.org.

• A USO LAO All products in here are handmade from wood or silk and wholly produced in Laos, overseen by the shop’s Canadian owner. There are wooden bowls, bed spreads, Buddha heads and cushions to catch the customer’s eye. Sakkarine Road, 071 254574, 9am-9pm, www.carusolao.com.

5 8

| Ministry of Silk |

| Passa Paa |

| T'Shop Lai Gallery |

| Saoban Crafts || Saoban Crafts |

LUANG A ANG

• A TE SA A boutique shop with shelves of original souvenirs and handicrafts. The store seeks to help local people by working with them to sell their products and improve their livelihoods. Many of the souvenirs are made from recycled paper, bamboo and other natural materials. Sisangvong Road, Ban Xieng Mouane, 071 260 654, 8am-9pm, www.matesai.com

• N GHT A ET Down the length of Sisavangvong Rd is the city’s famous Night Market. Weave under awnings to admire handicrafts such as rosewood carvings and silver jewellery, alongside herbal teas, rice paper diaries and beautiful linen dresses. It’s a friendly market and bargains are to be had. Sisangvong Road, 5pm-11pm, 7 days (weather dependent).

• O O TO A shop with a difference. Ock Pop Tok seeks to empower local women by developing their artistic skills and sells their items. Woven textiles, bags and scarves are on offer, while they also run classes for visitors who want to try their hand at production or just admire artisans at work. The group also has a flagship store in an at ong. akkaline Road, an at Sene, 071 253 219, 8am-9pm, www.ockpoptok.com.

• T A T ONAL A TS ETHNOLOG ENT E Although better known as a museum, the centre also supports over 500 handicraft producers from across Laos. They sell beaded necklaces, belts, backpacks, jewellery and lots of other items that showcase the enormous ethnic diversity of Laos. Kitsalat Road, Ban Khamyong, 071 253 364, Tue-Sun 9am-6pm, www.taeclaos.org.

• L ET ANGE OO S TEA This quaint book café lies close to the Nam Khan River and sells second-hand books. It’s well-stocked and has novels in many languages that cover the arts, travel, fiction, culture and regional history. Over 70 varieties of tea are for sale upstairs. Phousi Road, Ban Aphay, 071 212 880, Mon-Sat 7am-10pm, Sun 10am-10pm.

• ASSA AA The culmination of British and Lao creative minds, this store is the shopfront for the textile and accessories label of the same name. The label explores the language of desing that has evolved in Laos to re-think, re-interpret, and re-construct patterns, symbols and forms into contemporary bags, scarves, purses and more. 79 Ban Vat Sene, 020 5541 1244, 7 days 8am-8pm, www.passa-paa.com.

SHOP Listing

| Ma Te Sai |

5 9

• LAO LA A HOTEL – Top end. A preferred destination for travellers to Vientiane this is the country’s first five star hotel and is setting new standards in luxury hospitality. Over 130 rooms pair thoughtful ao influenced d cor ith modern conveniences. Opportunities for relaxation abound with a glistening swimming pool and traditional massages available from the spa. An array of cuisines are on offer in house. Free WiFi, spa, pool, fitness, business. 63 Samsenthai Road, 021 218 800, laoplazahotel.com. Open 24 hours.

• A V E E E UT VE SU TES – Top end. Perfect for an extended stay Parkview offers well-appointed serviced apartments in studio, one or t o bedroom configurations. ituated in do nto n Vientiane with easy access to Wattay International Airport Parkview offers modern amenities to the business travelled will a fully equipped meeting room and business centre. Top of the range recreational facilities include immaculate tennis courts, swimming pool, fitness centre, sauna and Jacuzzi. Luang Prabang Road, 021 250 888, parkviewexecutive.com. Open 24 hours.

SLEEP

V ENT ANE

Listing

• G EEN A OUT UE HOTEL – Boutique. Each of the 34 rooms at this exquisite hotel pairs traditional ao style orientation ith fine contemporary architecture. The elegance of the interiors, both historic and modern, matched with the lush garden setting create a sophisticated blend of style, luxury and relaxing accommodation. Free WiFi, spa, pool, fitness, city shuttle. 12 houvieng Road, 021 264 097, greenparkvientiane.com. pen 24 hours. Restaurant open 7 days 11. 0am 2. 0pm, 6. 0pm 10. 0pm.

• ANSA A HOTEL – Boutique. Tucked down a leafy laneway this boutique destination will delight even the most discerning guests. n elegant hidea ay in the bustling city centre the 14 rooms, ith private balconies looking onto manicured tropical gardens, exude understated colonial charm. In this location you’ll be surrounded by countless dining options but with excellent in-house restaurant La Signature at hand you won’t need to look far for exquisite epicure. Free WiFi, breakfast included, business. Quai Fa Ngum, Ban Vat Chan Tha, 021 21 514, ansarahotel.com. pen 24 hours.

• AN ALA OUT UE HOTEL – • AN ALA OUT UE HOTEL – • AN ALA OUT UE HOTEL Mid range/boutique. hip 1960s house turned hotel, the Mandala Boutique Hotel has operated under many guises but none as cool as this boutique stay. In recent years the villa has been refreshed ith colourful modern rooms but the unique spirit of the structure has been retained. Stay in and experience the beautiful grounds at night at the open air Mandala Restaurant. Free WiFi, bicycles to rent, transfers. aan hiavat, 021 214 49 , mandalahotel.asia. pen 24 hours.

• HASOU ES EN E – Mid range.nfluenced by traditional ao architecture hasouk Residence offers carefully designed and decorated rooms that encapsulate warmth, comfort and relaxation. The specious deluxe suites feature plush king beds, elegant Lao objects and textiles and bay indo s opening onto a private balconies. The cosier deluxe rooms offer similar understated elegance with double or twin beds. Free WiFI, spa, transfers. 57 4 Wat ieng neun Road, 021 24 415, phasoukresidence.com. pen 24 hours.

• HOUSE – • HOUSE – • HOUSE Mid range. Situated behind the iconic Nam Phou Fountain, a popular gathering place in the heart of Vientiane, iHouse is the perfect option for those who want to stay where the action is without the usual city centre price tag. Tidy, colourful rooms come in a range of configurations from budget to delu e, all rooms feature comfy ueen beds. Free WiFi. 72 6 ang ham

treet, 021 217 05 , ihouse laos.com. pen 24 hours

• HANTHA AN A HOTEL – Mid range. Conveniently located in the heart of the city centre you’ll be at the doorstep of Vientiane’s myriad of bars, cafes and restaurants in this family-run hotel. The warm and inviting atmosphere e tends to the spotless guest rooms which are decorated with Lao artworks and ornate carved timber furniture. Free WiFi, pool, business, transfers. Rue okeokoumane, an Mi ay, 021 244 2 4, chanthapanyahotel.com. pen 24 hours. | Ansara Hotel |

| Green Park Boutique Hotel |

• AU E GE SALA N ENG – Mid range. If you’re looking to get back to nature the nine private bungalows surrounded by tranquil tropical gardens at Auberge Sala Inpeng might just do the trick. Situated in the Inpeng Temple Area of Vientiane you’d never know the riverfront and bustling city are right at your doorstep. The bungalows are designed like traditional timber Lao houses and are completed with comfortable furnishings, air-conditioning and private bathrooms. 63/6 Inpeng Street, Ban Wat Chanh, 021 242 021, salalao.com/Sala_Inpeng/Content/Inpeng.htm. Open 24 hours.

• E U E V ENT ANE – Top end. Mercure Vientiane is a 4 star-hotel that caters to both business and leisure travellers. This charming hotel is positioned conveniently close to Wattay International Airport, the Mekong River waterfront and the town centre with its many restaurants, cafes and bars. Enjoy fantastic service, sumptuous buffet or a la carte dining and a sunny pool terrace bar. Free WiFi, spa, pool, fitness. nit 10 amsenthai Road, 021 213 570, accorhotels.com. Open 24 hours. Le Caf open 7 days 6am 10pm, oolside and obby bars open 7 days 7am – 10pm.

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| Settha Palace Hotel |

| Salana Boutique Hotel |

| Ansara Hotel |

V ENT ANE

• SETTHA ALA E HOTEL – Top end. This remarkable hotel is housed in a 1930s mansion which has been restored to its former imperial glory capturing an era of classic elegance, gracious service and French colonial sophistication. ight filled rooms en oy high ceilings and elegant touches like four-poster beds with do n feather pillo s and hard ood floors. Free WiFi, pool, breakfast included, business. 6 Pang Kham Street, 021 217 581, setthapalace.com. Open 24 hours.

• V ENT ANE GA EN HOTEL – Mid range. Situated in a peaceful corner of the city this small hotel offers contemporary-styled rooms surrounding a tranquil swimming pool and gardens. A truly modern experience each spacious room is complete with comfy beds, newly renovated bathrooms, LCD televisions and slick decor. The dedicated and professional staff will go out of their way to make your stay in Vientiane a special one. Free WiFi, pool. 56 Sihome Road, Ban Sihome, 021 241 963, vientianegardenhotel.com. Open 24 hours.

• SALANA OUT UE HOTEL – Top end. The grand façade of the Salana Boutique Hotel embodies sophistication and inside guests can escape the hustle and bustle and experience premier Lao hospitality. Designed to impress even the most discerning guests the ample rooms feature luxurious bedding and are tastefully decorated with Lao objects d’art. Free WiFi, spa, business. 112 Chao Anou Road, 021 254 254, salanaboutique.com. Open 24 hours.

• ON HAN ALA E HOTEL ONVENT ON ENT E – Top end. Commanding attention from its

location on the edge of the majestic Mekong River, Don Chan Palace offers sweeping views of Vientiane and northern Thailand. Each room, from the Classic to the Presidential Suite has been designed for comfort and convenience with plush beds, luxurious bathtubs and quality amenities. Sporting, leisure and dining facilities are first rate. Free WiFi, spa, pool, fitness, business, shuttle service. nit 6 i at illage, isatanak istrict, 021 244 288, donchanpalacelaopdr.com. Open 24 hours.

• V ENT ANE LA A HOTEL – Mid range. A top choice for business traveller and officials the ientiane la a Hotel. For those looking for a business base while in town the convenient on site office comple has hot desks and private spaces for rent. o un ind the fully e uipped fitness centre, tennis court and massage and spa centre are on hand. Spa, business. Sailom Road, Hatsady Neua Village, 020 2300 0433, vientianeplazalao.com. Open 24 hours.

• ASH S LA A HOTEL – Top end. A stylish and modern luxury hotel with easy access to the city centre and cultural and tourist sites. Guest rooms offer a range of accommodation options from cosy to decadent elegance and each room is a uni ue space specifically crafted to meet the tastes of guests with modern furnishings and stylish finishing touches. Free WiFi, pool, spa, fitness. hadeua Road, an eungkhayong ai, 021 315 088, rashmishotel.com. Open 24 hours.

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LUANG A ANG

• NAGAS HOTEL – Boutique. An intimate and charming boutique hotel situated on Luang Prabang’s main street across three heritage UNESCO-protected buildings. Each of the 15 rooms embodies simple and traditional sophistication ith e otic hard ood floors, torchis alls and clay roof tiles. range of configurations offer king and twin beds and you can opt for exclusive airport transfers and city tours in one of two immaculate vintage cars. Free WiFi, breakfast inclusive. akkaline Road, an at ong, 071 25 , nagas.com.

pen 24 hours.

• LE SEN OUT UE HOTEL – Top end. Just a 15 minute stroll from old Luang Prabang but from Le Sen’s lush secluded gardens the city centre will feel a world away. Polished stone and neutral palettes create a slick yet soothing contemporary ambience to the 19 spacious rooms, each of hich come ith private balconies that overlook a central swimming pool. Free WiFi, pool, fitness, shuttle service to city centre. 11 Manomai Road, an Mano, 071 261 66 , lesenhotel.com. pen 24 hours.

• V LLA AL HOTEL – Top end. A residence of charm, art deco inspired rooms are housed in seven lo rise buildings on this spra ling estate, ust a short walk from the historic heart of the city. Each room is furnished ith a blend of French and ritish colonial touches including classic adornments like hardwood floors, ornate rugs and old orld armchairs and ith pool and garden views has the feel of staying in a private villa. Free WiFi, spa, pool. 15 , 071 25 902, villa maly.com. pen 24 hours.

| Villa Maly Hotel |

| 3 Nagas Hotel |

| 3 Nagas Hotel |

| Le Sen Boutique Hote |

6262

LUANG A ANG

| Satri House | | Ock Pop Tok Mekong Villa |

• O O TO E ONG V LLA – Mid range/Boutique. Nestled on the banks of the Mekong River, award-winning textile centre Ock Tok Pop have created a truly relaxing and unique stay in a tropical paradise. Each of the four rooms combines contemporary design with colourful tribe motifs and the two Mekong facing rooms offer unrivalled views of the river. A free shuttle service will take you into town. Free WiFi, breakfast inclusive. Ban Saylom (opposite Phousi market), 071 212 597, ockpoptok.com. Open 24 hours.

• THE A SA A – Boutique. A truly beautiful experience in Luang Prabang, The Apsara cultivates a sense of effortless elegance from the banks of the Nam Khan. Colonial charm meets luxe cool in each of the spacious bedrooms with crisp linens, traditional silks, quirky objects d’art with balconies and terraces overlooking the river. If you’re looking to spend your holiday poolside the equally captivating sister hotel The Apsara Rive Droite is just across the river. Free WiFi, breakfast inclusive. Ban Phanluang, 071 254 252, theapsara.com. Open 24 hours.

• SAT HOUSE – Boutique. Located in the heart of the city, Satri House was built at the turn of the last century as the residence of Price Soupha-nouvong. It has been restored to its original elegance and is now renowned as one of the most exquisite structures in the city. Superior crafted wood furnishings are an ambient addition to each of the 31 rooms which feature generous balconies that look onto the manicured grounds. Free WiFi, pool, spa. 57 Photisarath Road, Ban Thatluang, 071 253 491, satrihouse.com. Open 24 hours.

| Ock Pop Tok Mekong Villa |

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SLEEP Listing

• VE S E OUT UE ESO T – Top end/Boutique. A tropical oasis nestled on the banks of the Nam Song River, Riverside Boutique Resort is a stylishly modern haven in Vang Vieng. Each of the 34 spacious suites are elegantly furnished with artworks and decors inspired by several ethnic groups of Laos, pairing perfectly with contemporary comforts like luxurious bedding and high-end amenities. The pristine swimming pool and the in-house restaurant and bar take in unparalleled views of the river and its sweeping mountainscapes. Gift shop, pool. Ban Viengkeo, 023 511 726-8, riversidevangvieng.com.

• NTH A VANG V ENG – Mid range. A beautiful Lao-style vil la located in the heart of Vang Vieng – just steps away from all of the local highlights. The 28 well-appointed rooms come in a range of configurations to suit everyone from the comfort-seeker to the budget-conscious traveller. An airy rooftop terrace, complete with sun lounges, is the perfect spot to admire the surrounding ancient l imestone mountain vistas. On-site eatery ‘The Kitchen’ serves up hearty local and international fare. Free WiFi. Ban Savang, 023 511 070, inthira.com.

• THE ELE HANT OSS NG HOTEL – Boutique.Set along the Nam Song River, complete with breathtaking views of Vang Vieng’s majestic natural surrounds is The Elephant Crossing Hotel. A charming getaway, this hotel offers guests 31 rooms, all designed with comfort, elegance and convenience in mind. In addition to classic hardwood floors and spacious en suite facilities, each room features a generous private balcony which looks directly onto the river and mountains. Ban Viengkeo, 023 511 232, theelephantcrossinghotel.com.

VANG V ENG

| Riverside Boutique Resort |

| Riverside Boutique Resort |

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• ATE ALL ESO T AN E TU A SONG – • ATE ALL ESO T AN E TU A SONG – • ATE ALL ESO T AN E TU A SONG Mid range. A small cluster of charming bungalows on the site of a former coffee and tea plantation just outside of Paksong. A perfect spot for rest and relaxation if you’re travelling through the Bolaven Plateau, the resort offers spotless private villas with helpful staff who can guide you on what to see, do and eat in the area. The restaurant serves traditional Lao fare made from fresh local ingredients. 020 2866 2809, waterfalletupaksong.com.

• A SE HOTEL – Mid range. The first multistorey building constructed under the supervision of the last King of Southern Laos, this hotel was originally the entertainment hub of Pakse housing a casino and cinema. Now owned and run by a French-Lao couple the hotel blends local influences ith French ndochina spirit ith cosy rooms and e cellent service. Street 5, Ban Watkouang, 031 212 131, hotelpakse.com. Open 24 hours.

• S NOU O EE ESO T – • S NOU O EE ESO T – • S NOU O EE ESO T Mid range. Two chalets nestled amongst of the famous Sinouk Coffee plantation and manicured gardens. Guests have the choice to stay alongside a bubbling river and small waterfall at Chalet or closer to the plantation in Chalet , each bungalo contains spotless private ensuite bedrooms and a shared lounge and living room and terrace but it’s so peaceful here you’d barely know you had any neighbours. Tatheng – Bolaven Plateau, sinouk@laopdr.com, sinoukcoffeeresort.com.

SAVANNA HET

• SALA SAVANH – • SALA SAVANH – • SALA SAVANH Mid range. Housed in a renovated 1920s colonial building Sala Savanh sits pretty in the heart of Savannakhet historical centre. Five superior rooms are neat and tidy with high ceilings, vintage-look cane furniture and spacious balconies on the upper floor. Free WiFi. 020 5564 5111, salalao@laotel.com, salalao.com/Salalao/Content/Savanh.htm.

• LEENA GUESTHOUSE –• LEENA GUESTHOUSE –• LEENA GUESTHOUSE Mid range. – Mid range. – A friendly option if you’re passing through Savannakhet, Leena’s is a little off the main drag but you can rent a bike for a quick ride. There’s a variety of tidy rooms on offer for different price ranges so ask to take a look at what’s available to find one that’s right for you and your travelling budget, service is super friendly so they will be happy to help. Close to a number of cheap eats, internet cafes and the Mekong River. Free WiFi. Chaokeem Road, 020 9927 4994, leenaguesthouse.blogspot.com.

A SE

| Sinouk Coffee Resort |

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MAP OF VIENTIANE

VIENTIANE

As the nation's capital, Vientiane is a must-experience city when traveling through Laos. Vientiane became the capital in 1563 because of fears surrounding Burmese invasion. Under French rule, it became the administrative capital and in recent times the city has emerged as the country's economic hub. Sitting on the northern banks of the Mekong river, the city has a colourful culture, amazing hospitality and is home to an enviable local and international dining scene. With its French colonial characteristics and leafy boulevards surrounded by rustic temples and coconut palms, this is a city that mixes colonial architecture with a tropical environment. The laidback atmosphere is ideal for visitors, and it is rapidly becoming one of the most fascinating cities to see in Asia.

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