Geometrija i moda
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Transcript of Geometrija i moda
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Geometrijski motivi se javljaju kao prvi dekorativni motivi još u praistorijskom periodu. U početku se njima dekorisala grnčarija, a kasnije i odeća i nakit. Ovi motivi često nose i određeno simboličko značenje.
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Korišćenje geometrijskih ornamenata će se nastaviti kroz istoriju.Njihov izgled i kolorit će se menjati u skladu sa trenutno preovlađujućim stilom, a zanimljivo je da se gotovo identični motivi pojavljuju u svim vrstama dekorativnih umetnosti.
Egipat
Grčka
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Vizantija Rusija
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Geometrijski motivi se sreću u svim kulturama i svim krajevima sveta.
Afrika
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Maorski tekstil Japanski motivi
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Peruanski tekstil Indijanske torbe i obuća
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U dizajniranju tekstila geometrija često biva “nevidljiva”: ona je u načinu postavljanja i ponavljanja osnovnih motiva koji, pri tom, ne moraju biti geometrijski. U evropskom tekstilu će geometrija ostati uglavnom ovako “nevidljiva” u periodu od XVI do XX veka.
“Bahram Gur i indijska princeza” -persijska ilustracija iz XVI veka (detalj)
Šema po kojoj se ponavljaju motivi prikazani na detalju ilustracije.
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Šeme ponavljanja motiva pomoću simetrije:
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Procvat geometrijskih motiva u umetnosti javlja se posle Prvog svetskog rata, sa umetničkim pravcima kubizma, suprematizma i orfizma. U tekstilu i dekorativnim umetnostima je sklonost prema geometrizaciji posebno uočljiva u radovima pripadnika škole Bauhaus.Od tada, pa do danas, ovi motivi su u manjoj ili većoj meri prisutni u dizajnu tekstila.
Gunta Štolcl, nacrti za tkanine.
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Geometrija je nezaobilazna i u izradi pačvorka, ali i takozvanih “žabica”.
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I u odevanju se geometrija javlja na više načina: - Površinska – korišćenjem tkanina sa geometrijskim motivima ili spajanjem komada tkanina različitih boja (ili tekstura) geometrijskih oblika;- Unutrašnja – sadržana je u konstrukciji kroja;- 3D – postiže se krojem, a ogleda se u formi odeće.
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Ovi načini se mogu pratiti kroz istoriju. Geometrija je uvek prisutna, manje ili više uočljiva.
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I u odevanju geometrija postaje uočljivija tokom XX veka.
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Sonja Delone, slikarka i dizajneka tekstila i odeće, najbolji je primer za primenu geometrije u dezenu i formi u periodu između dva svetska rata.
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Pedesetih godina geometrija je zastupljenija u formi odeće, nego u dezenu.
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Geometrija u modi ponovo dolazi u prvi plan tokom ‘60-ih i početkom ‘70-ih godina XX veka. Karden, Kurež i Garnrajh stvaraju odeću inspirisanu svemirom i svemirskim letovima, Sen Loran radi kolekciju inspirisanu Mondrijanovim slikama, a Puči stvara svoje tkanine i odeću psihodeličnih boja i dezena.
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U poslednjim decenijama japanski modni dizajneri prednjače u korišćenju geometrije, uvodeći potpuno novi pristup u dizajnu odeće, služeći se često principima tradicionalne origami tehnike.
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Isej Mijake je 2010. pokrenuo svoju kolekciju “132 5” inspirisanu origamijem. Zanimljivo je da su odevni premeti prvo dizajnirani korišćenjem softverskog programa, čiji je autor Džun Mitani, savremeni guru origamija. Naziv kolekcije je simboličan: “1” se odnosi na jedan komad tkanine od koga se pravi svaki odevni predmet, “3” ukazuje na trodimenzionalni oblik, “2” označava da se može složiti u dvodimenzionalni objekt, prazan prostor između brojeva 2 i 5 simboliše vreme koje protekne od slaganja forme, do trenuta kada je neko obuče, a “5” označava koncept višestrukih permutacija.
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Ičiro Suzuki je japanski kreator mlađe generacije, čije su kolekcije muške odeće takođe inspirisane geometrijom.
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Ni evropski dizajneri ne zaostaju u ovom novom pristupu geometriji u odevanju.
Geret Pju
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Sruli Reht
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Iris Van HerpenAleksandra Veršuren
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Ali i pored sve češćeg bavljenja trodimenzionalnim formama, nije zaboravljena ni površinska geometrija:
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Aleksander Vang
Geret Pju
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Marina Skrinjik Ćorićapril, 2013.