H1: Measuring of needle thread tensionIn the previous chapters, the thread balance of the most important stitch types was discussed. First it was shown, how a poor thread balance can be detected by opening (unpicking) a seam. By adjusting the thread tension, the thread balance was able to be corrected. Now, it is necessary to make the ideal thread tension measurable by concretely determining it with a thread tension measuring device on the sewing machine.

There are two common measuring devices (www.hans-schmidt.com; www.pesola.com), although the PESOLA thread tension measuring device is more handy and much cheaper. In the following, the correct application of the PESOLA device is shown.

Bild/Grafik 1: PESOLA tension measuring device

H2: Preparation

The sewing machine must be threaded correctly.

The cones/spools must be correctly placed on the spool stand, possibly with spool plate.

The spool stand must be adjusted correctly. This means that the first thread guide of the spool should be exactly placed above the center of the spools.

The take-up lever must be at the upper turning point.

With machines with a thread trimmer, the take-up lever usually automatically remains at the upper turning point after the trimming process.

With machines without positioning and thread trimmer, the take-up lever must be brought to the upper turning point via the hand wheel.

The thread needs to be slightly struck off over the thread guiding in the take-up lever and needs to be fixed in the thread clamp of the tension measuring device.

The thread must fit tightly in the thread clip and must not slip if the thread is pulled through afterwards.

A knot or a loop can possibly help with “fixing” the thread.

H2: Conduction

Now, at the position of the take-up lever, the tension measuring device is evenly pulled in horizontal direction to the left (away from the take-up lever).

The tension measuring device must be held as shown on the lower picture.

During this movement, the current thread tension (in cN) can be read off.

Bild/Grafik 2: Messverfahren Pesola 1Bild/Grafik 3: Messverfahren Pesola 2 (analog Darstellung mit Kreis)Bild/Grafik 4: Messverfahren Pesola 3Bild/Grafik 5: Messverfahren Pesola 4Bild/Grafik 6: Messverfahren Pesola 5 (analog Darstellung mit Pfeil)Bild/Grafik 7: Messverfahren Pesola 6 Bild/Grafik 8: Messverfahren Pesola 7 Bitte mit Zoom-Fenster + Angabe des Werts (analog zu Darstellung oben)Hinweis Adextra: Keine Bildunterschriften für Bilder 2-8, da in Tabelle integriert

H2: Remarks According to the machine, sewing material, layer height, and needle size, different

thread tension settings can be required.

ca. 80 cN

Different ticket sizes require different thread tension settings (this means, the thread tension for sabaC 80 differs from the tension figure of sabaC 30).

The determined thread tension figures can only be transferred between the same machines (manufacturer and class/type).

The ideal thread tension of a seam depends on the requirements of the seam (e.g. optics, strength, etc.) and is always an interaction between needle thread tension and lower thread tension.

With sewing threads that have a textile character (e.g. sabaC), the indication of the thread measuring device usually fluctuates, because of the structure of the surface.

With sewing threads that have a very smooth surface (e.g. Serafil), the fluctuation on the display is very low.