WoodwindThe woodwind section in general can be given faster music, with less consideration for tone (except in high registers), as these are less of a problem than on strings or brass. "Pitching" of notes is of a much smaller difficulty than brass, and fingering is a lot simpler than on strings.In general woodwind are better in flat keys, for fingering simplicities, although this usually doesn't matter in the very high register (e.g. flute/piccolo 3rd octave), as fingering doesn't follow the simple put one more finger down and the tone lowers a note rule.PiccoloThe piccolo is an uncommon instrument for new beginners, but many do pick it up. It can be easier in some respects than the flute for younger people, due to it's size, if the musician has the required embouchure and breath control (which can be taught).Beginner piccolo players should be kept to the first two octaves. The top of the second octave is difficult to reach for long notes, and should not be hit cold (without some sort of lead-in or warm up on an easier section). The first octave (at least from A downwards) can be very weak and airy for inexperienced players, and notes from an F down can be quiet, although this problem is usually corrected reasonably quickly.For preferred keys, see the Flute section, as fingering is identical (although the piccolo lacks the very bottom C and C# of the flute). Difficult note sequences are also covered there.FluteThe flute is a very common starting instrument for many musicians, and is often started very early. You will often see young flute players with curved headjoints, where the lip-plate section of the head is bent around 180 degrees to make the keys closer, for kids with short arms. This looks similar to a bass flute, and has no effect on tone.Range should be kept to the first two octaves, with a limit of second octave B or the C just above it (although new players might have intonation issues on that C). Notes in second octave can be quite difficult to hit cold, and notes from second octave A upwards can be difficult to hit cold as well as sustain. Bottom octave C and C# can be very weak and difficult, and teachers often don't teach them until players are more experienced.Beginner flute players are very unlikely to be using flutes with a B foot, so bottom range should be considered to be middle C.The best keys for a beginner flute (from both a sight-reading and playing perspective) would be F Major, C Major, and G Major (as well as their respective minor keys). Going into more than 1 sharp is difficult, as the C# fingering for all but bottom octave can be uncomfortable for new players. Bb Major is also possible, but Eb's are harder to sightread. Going any further flat than Bb is not recommended, as Ab confuses players (as the fingering appears to skip a key).For faster or slurred/legato sections, sticking within a single octave is a good idea. Moving between octave breaks (e.g. first octave C and second octave D) can be cumbersome, as the positions of all but one finger are inverted. Moving between Bb and B can be cumbersome, as well as F# and E. Trills should only be done on Bb/B-A, G#-G, G-F, and D#-D. Other trills are possible, but the fingerings can be awkward until the hands are used to it. Don't expect tremolos between different notes, as they can be difficult to achieve.