Week 2 - Flying Geese Page 1 © 2012 AMC DESIGNS

Week 2 - Flying geeseHalf & Quarter-Square Triangles

This week we will be cutting half-square and quarter-square triangles. These are triangles with 90º angles on one corner and 45º angles on the remaining 2 corners. They are used in many different block designs.

Cutting FabriC PieCesRefer to the Cutting List on Page 6 to cut the fabric pieces. For this block you will need 2 quarter-square triangles and 4 half-square triangles. These may also be cut from fabric strips instead of squares. Cut the strips half the finished block size plus ⅞". For this block they should be cut 3⅛". Then use a half-square or quarter-square triangle ruler to cut the pieces. Make sure the bottom width is the same width as the square measurement.

Cutting half-square triangles from strips.

Cutting quarter-square triangles from strips.

PieCing the bloCk1. Place fabric piece for Location #1 in position,

lining it up with the guidelines. Pin away from the seam so it doesn’t shift. Note that the bottom edge is below the guidelines. I cut my triangles a little oversized for insurance.

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Remember, the seam allowance markings are for ⅜" seams. If the fabric doesn’t quite cover the area, it’s okay, as long as it covers about ¼" on inside seams, slightly more on outside seams.

4. Place fabric piece for Location #3 in finished position. Flip over to place in sewing position. It works just like piece #2 except it is a mirror image. In this case you will be sewing with the fabric piece to the right of the needle.

Finished Position Sewing Position

I like to sew with the needle in the down position so the template won’t shift if I stop sewing in the middle of the seam.

2. Place fabric piece for Location #2 in finished position. Flip over to place in sewing position and pin in place. For this triangle, the bottom edge should line up with piece #1 and the top edge at the seamline should line up where the guideline and seamline cross. Since the triangles are slightly oversized, they may be a little above the crossline. If they are below it, just reposition with a slightly smaller seam allowance.

Finished Position Sewing Position

3. Check placement by folding along seamline. Sew seam. Angled seams are sewn the same as straight seams. Refer to Piecing the Blocks in Week 1, General Instructions. (The wooden pressing tool is just there to hold the fabric down for the picture.)

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Tip: If your paper separates prematurely at the seamline, try a smaller needle or a longer stitch length. Also, if you’ve been sewing for awhile, the needle may need to be changed.

5. For Location #4 there will be an intersection where 3 seams cross. Check to see that your first 2 seams intersect with line 4. If they are off your next seam may not be accurate. If you need to make a slight adjustment in your next seam, sew on the back of the template.

6. Place the fabric piece for Location #4 in the finished position.

7. Flip over to the sewing position. The guidelines extend to the edge of the paper for easier alignment, since your previous triangles that were cut slightly oversized may be covering the guidelines. In cases where you can’t see the guidelines, just peek under the seam and estimate the location. Center the long edge of the triangle on the seam and pin in place. Notice the 90º tip of the triangle lines up with the center grid line at the bottom. Fold along seamline to check for accuracy.

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8. I’m sewing this seam on the back side to show you how it’s done. I have every confidence that I would get sharp points sewing from the front as I’ve made hundreds of blocks that have intersecting lines. Flip the block over with the head of the straight pins facing you. Sew on the line, removing the pins as you reach them.

Seam #4 Sewn

Seam #4 Pressed

9. For Locations #5 and 6, center the fabric pieces over the area the same as #4. You will note that the 90º tip of the triangle lines up with diagonal seam #3 for Location #5.

Tip: Always make a sample block first before making multiple blocks of the same design. Once you’ve made the first block, the rest go much faster as you repeat the same alignment over and over. Keep in mind when chain sewing multiple blocks that you can make the same mistake over and over so pay attention.

Half-square and quarter-square triangles are the same shape. The only difference is the short sides of the half-square triangle are on the straight grain of the fabric and the long side is on the bias edge. The long side of the quarter-square triangle is on the straight grain of the fabric and the short sides are on the bias edge. It is very important when positioning these that they are turned in the right direction. It is easy to sew them on the wrong side on some block designs, so placing them in the finished position before flipping over to the sewing position is very important.

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10. Finished block before trimming.

11. Back side of trimmed block with fabric trimmings from block.

12. Finished block with seam allowance. I left the paper on Location #4 so I could label it when making a sampler quilt.

Flying geese4½" Finished

CUTTING LISTLocation Size to Cut1, 4 6⅜" x 6⅜"2, 3, 5, 6 3⅝" x 3⅝"

Tip: If the triangles are for Location #1 and are not on the outside edge, the squares may be cut ⅛" smaller.

For half-square triangles (2, 3, 5, 6), add an extra 1⅜" to short side for ⅜" seam allowance. Cut a square this size and cut in half once diagonally to make 2 triangles.

For quarter-square triangles (1 and 4), add an extra 1⅞" to long side for ⅜" seam allowance. Cut a square this size and cut it in half twice diagonally to make 4 triangles.

Set

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1" TestSquare

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Flying Geese

1

3 2

4

56

2 3

5 6

4

234

5

6

1

3 2

4

56

Flying geese4½" Finished

Set Page Scaling = None.Background Grid Measures ¼".

1" TestSquare

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1

32

4

5 6

Flying geese4½" Finished

Mirrored

Set Page Scaling = None.Background Grid Measures ¼".

1" TestSquare

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1

32

4

5 6

Use these mirrored templates for other paper piecing methods.