Vegan Yum Yum

Vegan Yum Yum
Vegan Yum Yum
Vegan Yum Yum
Vegan Yum Yum
Vegan Yum Yum
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    14-Jul-2016
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Transcript of Vegan Yum Yum

  • The Search For Vegan Madeleines

    The short version of this post: I dont have a perfect vegan madeleine recipe, yet. But if you want to experiment foryourself, these notes might be helpful. For those of you who are interested, heres the long version:

    In my last post I talked about petits fours, specifically petits fours glacsmeaning iced. I mentioned how the term petitfour can refer to many kinds of small sweets. As soon as my blood sugar returned to normal human levels, I beganworking on petits fours secs, specifically madeleines.

    Even if youve forgotten the French you learned in highschool (goodness knows I have), youre probably already familarwith the word sec, as in triple sec. The world sec is often used to describe a lack of sweetness in an alcoholic beverage,but in the case of triple sec it means that the alcohol has been distilled three times, i.e. triple dry. What does this have todo with petits fours? Nothing, really. Just remember that sec means dry.

    A common petit four sec is a madeleine - a lemony shell-shaped confection thathovers somewhere between cookies, cakes, and shortbreads. There is muchdiscussion about what the original madeleines, the ones eaten and written about byProust, were really like. Softy and crumby? Dry and sconelike? It seems that mostpeople seem to prize the following characteristics of madeleines, so these are mygoals for my final version:

    1. Crispy and browned around the edges2. Softish in the middle

    3. Well defined, smooth shell ridges on one side4. A nice hump on the other side5. Slightly sweet and lemony, with buttery undertones

    All recipes Ive found seem to call for the liberal use of eggs, which are beaten with sugar to the ribbon stage beforecompleting the batter. Obviously eggs are out of the question, so Im experimenting with egg replacers and chemicalleavening, but well get into that in a minute.

    The first thing I do when trying to create a vegan recipe is study as many non-vegan recipes on the web as I can. Aftergetting a feel for the standard recipes in use, I usually pick the recipe that seems to be the easiest to veganize andsubstitute non-vegan ingredients with the vegan versions. Then I take stock of the results and change what needs to bechanged, if anything.

    For the madeleines, I decided to veganize a recipe I found on about.com. It only called for two eggs (as opposed thethree or four that some other recipes used), and it only made 12 - I wouldnt be stuck with three dozen if they didnt turnout.

    Madeleines - Trial One (Unphotographed)

    1 1/4 cup flour (I used Pastry Flour)1 tsp baking powder2 eggs Ener-G Eggs1/2 cup icing sugar1 tbs lemon or orange juice6 tbs butter Earth Balance Margarine, meltedGrated rind of lemon or orange

  • 1 1/4 cup flour (I used Pastry Flour)1 tsp baking powder2 eggs Ener-G Eggs1/2 cup icing sugar1 tbs lemon or orange juice6 tbs butter Earth Balance Margarine, meltedGrated rind of lemon or orange

    Melt margarine and let cool. Mix dry ingredients together. Beat ener-g eggs and sugar together until frothy. Add juiceand zest to the ener-g mixture. Alternately beat in dry ingredients and melted earth balance until all combined. Greaseand flour a madeleine pan and fill each shell 2/3 full with batter. Bake at 375 until crisp and brown around the edges(15-20 minutes).

    #1 Results: Too scone-like, a little ugly, tastes okay1. They were crispy and browned2. They were a little dry in the middle, but not bad3. The ridges were undefined because of poor pan flouring (see photo)4. No hump5. Correct sweetness and buttery undertones (for my taste)

    If you put to much oil on your pan, the flour sticks too well and actually fills in the ridges a little, making for lame lookingmadeleines. This is how the pan will look after its been properly floured. Use a cooking spray to oil your pan, and holdthe pan a good two feet away from the nozzle. You want an even, light coating of oil which will ensure an even, lightcoating of flour. Like so:

    Madeleines - Trial Two

    I wanted to see if I could increase the moisture content, so I tried out a modified version of a lemon muffin recipe ofmine. I increased the heat to 400 help brown the edges and create a peaked hump.

    1 Cup All Purpose Flour2 Tbs Sugar1 tsp Baking Powder

  • Madeleines - Trial Two

    I wanted to see if I could increase the moisture content, so I tried out a modified version of a lemon muffin recipe ofmine. I increased the heat to 400 help brown the edges and create a peaked hump.

    1 Cup All Purpose Flour2 Tbs Sugar1 tsp Baking Powder1/2 tsp Baking Soda1 Pinch Salt1/2 Cup Soy Milk1 Tbs Lemon Juice and Zest from the lemon3 Tbs Vegetable Oil1 tsp Vanilla Extract

    Whisk dry ingredients together. Whisk soy milk, juice, zest, oil and extract together until thickened. Fold the wetingredients into the dry. Bake in an oiled and floured madeleine pan for 15 minutes. Remove and let cool on a rackshell-side up.

    #2 Results: Total disaster1. They didnt brown2. Too soft in the middle3. No ridges, batter way too thick and bubbly4. No hump5. Not sweet enough

    These were a disaster. It seemed I was better off with the first recipe. The batter was way too thick, creating a lot oftextural and aesthetic problems. I decided to thin out the batter used above by adding 1/4 cup of water just to seewhat would happen:

    Madeleines - Trial Three

    Same recipes as #2 but with 1/4 cup added water.

  • You can see trial #2 madeleines on the left, and #3 on the right. I wanted to show you how a simple thing like batterconsistency can have a HUGE effect of the final result. The third batch certainly looked better, by about a hundredbillion times. But how did they stack up?

    #3 Results: Pretty, but thats about it.1. Beautifully browned2. Texture all wrong, too much like cupcakes3. Beautiful Ridges4. Humps!5. Not sweet enough

    So after all that, Im still searching for the perfect madeleines. It wasnt until after my third try that I realized I might havehad the answer all along in my petits fours glacs - the cake had these beautifully crispy and caramelized edges. If Ican combine those edges with a less cake-like texture Ill be in business. Ill let you know the final recipe, if I ever find it..