Today’s Tune “This is the Sea” by The Waterboys. Next Midterm Monday, May 16, 2011, 1:00 ¥...
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Transcript of Today’s Tune “This is the Sea” by The Waterboys. Next Midterm Monday, May 16, 2011, 1:00 ¥...
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Today’s TuneToday’s Tune
““This is the Sea”This is the Sea” by The Waterboysby The Waterboys
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Next Midterm Next Midterm Monday, May 16, 2011, 1:00 Monday, May 16, 2011, 1:00
Here in Gilfillan Auditorium, closed bookHere in Gilfillan Auditorium, closed bookSame format as Test 1 Same format as Test 1 Bring #2 pencilBring #2 pencilStudy Guide POSTED on main class web Study Guide POSTED on main class web
site:site: http://dusk.geo.orst.edu/oceans/103syl.htmlhttp://dusk.geo.orst.edu/oceans/103syl.html
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Transformation of Wind-Driven Transformation of Wind-Driven Deep-water WavesDeep-water Waves
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Transformation of Wind-Driven Transformation of Wind-Driven
Shallow-water WavesShallow-water Waves
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Photography by Clark Little
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Photography by Clark Little
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Photography by Clark Little
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Photography by Clark Little
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Photography by Clark Little
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Photography by Clark Little
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Photography by Clark Little
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Photography by Clark Little
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Photography by Clark Little
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TsunamisTsunamisSudden shifting of the ocean floor Sudden shifting of the ocean floor
due to earthquakes, volcanic due to earthquakes, volcanic eruptions, and submarine slumping.eruptions, and submarine slumping.– open oceanopen ocean: : shortshort heights, heights, longlong
wavelengths (>100 km), and long periods wavelengths (>100 km), and long periods -- -- 400-500 mph!!!400-500 mph!!!
– shallow watershallow water: their length shortens and : their length shortens and their height increases dramatically.their height increases dramatically.
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Global Wave Propagation After Global Wave Propagation After 2004 Sumatra Event2004 Sumatra Event
Titov, V., A.B. Rabinovich, H.O. Mojfeld, R.E. Thomson, and F.I. Gonzalez, The global reach of the 26 December 2004 Sumatra tsunami, Science, 309 (5743), 2045-2048, 2005.
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Oregon Coastal AtlasOregon Coastal AtlasTsunami Hazard InformationTsunami Hazard Information
http://www.coastalatlas.net http://www.coastalatlas.net oror
http://bit.ly/FG8rzhttp://bit.ly/FG8rz
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Tsunami from slumpingTsunami from slumping
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Driscoll et al., Geology, 28(5):407-410
North Carolina ExampleNorth Carolina Example
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Back to Wind-Driven Scenarios:Back to Wind-Driven Scenarios:
Storm SurgesStorm Surgesextremely high water levels due toextremely high water levels due to
– Low pressure system - big storms Low pressure system - big storms persistent onshore windspersistent onshore windsrise in sea levelrise in sea level
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Hurricanes! Hurricanes! (W. Atlantic)(W. Atlantic)
Cyclones! Cyclones! (W. Pacific)(W. Pacific)
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NASA Advanced Microwave Scanning Radar
Hurricane Katrina, Saturday, Aug 27, 2005
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NASA PPT Radar, Visible Infrared Scanner, Tropical Microwave Imager
GOES satellite
L
Accumulation of water driven shoreward by storm winds:Elevated sea level at shore
Hurricane Katrina, Sunday, Aug 28, 2005
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ESRI.com
New Orleans, Wednesday, Aug 31, 2005
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OSU Wave TankOSU Wave Tank
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Back to 1998 El NiñoBack to 1998 El Niño“The Perfect Storm”“The Perfect Storm”
Condition Black in HawaiiCondition Black in Hawaii
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Other Types of Progressive WavesOther Types of Progressive Waves
There is one other notable type of There is one other notable type of progressive waves. progressive waves. – Internal waves Internal waves which occur underwater which occur underwater
and move along pycnoclines.and move along pycnoclines.
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Internal WavesInternal WavesSlower speeds than surface waves Slower speeds than surface waves
because the because the density difference density difference between water massesbetween water masses is less than is less than between air and water. between air and water. – They occur when water masses slip over They occur when water masses slip over
one another.one another.– They have very long periods and very They have very long periods and very
large heights.large heights.
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Advection Along Internal WavesAdvection Along Internal Waves
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Standing WavesStanding Waves Seas, swell, and surf are progressive Seas, swell, and surf are progressive
waves. waves. Standing waves (seiches)…Standing waves (seiches)…
– Oscillate back and forth about a Oscillate back and forth about a nodenode i.e., a fixed point.i.e., a fixed point.
– Form when winds blow in one direction Form when winds blow in one direction which causes water to pile up at one which causes water to pile up at one end of a basin.end of a basin.
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Node = Fixed Point Node = Fixed Point Antinode = maximum displacementAntinode = maximum displacement
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SummarySummary Waves are disturbances that are generated on Waves are disturbances that are generated on
or beneath the sea surface. or beneath the sea surface. Progressive wavesProgressive waves move along the sea surface.move along the sea surface.
The size of surface waves depends on the The size of surface waves depends on the speed and duration of the speed and duration of the windwind, and the , and the fetchfetch..
Waves affect water to a depth equal to or less Waves affect water to a depth equal to or less than one-half their than one-half their wavelengthwavelength..
A special case is a A special case is a tsunamitsunami, a deepwater wave , a deepwater wave generated by a submarine disturbance with generated by a submarine disturbance with incredibly long wavelengths, high wave incredibly long wavelengths, high wave speeds, and very short wave heights, UNTIL speeds, and very short wave heights, UNTIL they feel the bottom in shallow water!they feel the bottom in shallow water!
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SummarySummary(Cont.)(Cont.)
As waves enter As waves enter shallowshallow water their water their wavelength shortens and their height wavelength shortens and their height increases. increases.
The most damaging effect of storms is The most damaging effect of storms is not necessarily the waves alone, but the not necessarily the waves alone, but the waves in combination with waves in combination with storm surgestorm surge (elevated sea level), created by the winds (elevated sea level), created by the winds which pile water up along the shore.which pile water up along the shore.