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Mammoth, Mt. High, Big Bear, Baldy

reader contributedindependent

WINTER 07 • No. 01

snowboardingskiinghikingtrail runningmountain bikingtravelsurfingclimbingphotographycreative writing

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2007 snow season preview

SOUTH BAY SWELL WINDOWS+ CANADA’S MONSTERS

+ WILLIAMSON ROCK, CLIMB-OFF

THE DIRT, TRAIL REVIEWS: Mountain Biking,Hiking, and Trail Running

HORSE TRACKS IN THE TIBETAN PLATEAU+ KENYA’S MAASAI MARA RESERVE

PHOTOGRAPHER, JOHN POST

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W/07 • TREKKER MAGAZINE • �

featuresDepartments

06 / South Bay Swell Windows

11 / Canada’s Monsters: Whistler/Blackcomb

12 / 2007 Snow Preview

14 / Powder Stashes Around L.A.

16 / Williamson Rock, Climb-Off An interview with Troy Mayr

20 / Horse Tracks in the Tibetan Plateau

04 / Visual Gallery

05 / A Note from TM

08 / The Dirt: Trail Briefs

18 / Featured Photographer: John Post

22 / Among the Wild: A Photo Essay of Kenya’s Maasai Mara Reserve

24 / 5 Lines | Shop Local

25 / Creative Writing Selection: Bodysurfing

26 / Visual Gallery cover & contents photo: tyler wallace

TREKKER MAGAZINE

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A note from TM.This is it, the inaugural issue of TREKKER MAGAZINE. This magazine is over a year in the making, and I’m absolutely thrilled that it’s finally on the streets of the South Bay. A lot of people put a lot of sweat and hard work into its production, so please, by all means, enjoy it. We at TREKKER MAGAZINE have a vision for this publication. We want this to be a reader’s magazine, an adventurer’s magazine, and a dreamer’s magazine. Adventure hardly means risking your life at every glancing opportunity---adventure comes in many forms. We strive to be an embodiment of the active South Bay culture. And we would like this magazine to be a medium for people of the South Bay to communicate their experiences via writing and photography. Although we cover a lot of ground in this issue, we primarily focus on the upcoming winter season. We have a ski and snowboard season preview (pg. 12), a write up on Mount Baldy’s Ski Resort (pg. 14), and an exhilarating account of “Canada’s Monsters: Whistler/Blackcomb” (pg. 11). You will find that we are not a news publication. We are for those who enjoy getting out and experiencing nature and culture, or for those who simply enjoy a good read from the comfort of their armchair. We feature creative writing; see local freelance writer Debra Anne Davis’ piece on bodysurfing (pg. 25). And we also feature photography; see the wonderful photograph of a total solar eclipse in Zimbabwe by the splendidly talented, local photographer John Post (pg. 18). We also have a fascinating interview with veteran rock climber Troy Mayr. Troy is a genuine guy who has worked diligently and responsibly to restore climbing access to one of Southern California’s premiere rock climbing spots--the Williamson Rock Crag (pg. 16). We also endeavor on a trip to the Tibetan Plateau and the Kenyan Bush---both of which I’m jealous I didn’t get to personally experience. This magazine is for you, the reader, and we also look forward to reading your submissions, since Trekker Magazine’s voice is your voice. This is our passion, so if you have comments about content, layout, corrections, or anything else, please drop us a note either by email (letters@trekkermagazine.com) or by snail mail (glance left).

Thanks for reading---see you in February,

RoccoFounder

Publisher - Rocco Samuele

Editor in Chief - Marcie Samuele

Senior Editor - Debra Anne Davis

Contributing Writers - Michelle Creedon, Nick Johansen, John Post, Jennifer Wallace, Tyler Wallace

Contributing Photographers - Michelle Creedon, Dameon Guess, Nick Johansen, Joanna Laubschner, Troy Mayr, John Post, Stan Roy, Marcie Samuele, Rocco Samuele, Molly Snow,

Jennifer Wallace, Tyler Wallace

Design & Layout - Rocco Samuele

Advertising & Distribution - Rocco Samuele & Marcie Samueleemail us at contact@trekkermagazine.com

+Advertising in Trekker Magazine is easy and affordable.

We work to market your brand.

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Trekker Magazine is an independent, contributor-based publication. We strongly advocate freedom of expression, exploration, and ideas.

Contents herein are not necessarily representative of Trekker Magazine.

Although the authors have exerted great effort to make the information presented in each issue accurate, the publisher and author do not assume and hereby disclaim any liability to any party for

any loss, damage, or injury caused by errors, omissions, or any other means.+

TREKKER PRESS LLCCopyright © 2006 in process

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+Cities give not the human sense room enough -Ralph Waldo Emerson

LETTERS@TREKKERMAGAZINE.COM

tell us what youTHINK?

THINK?A new, local magazine for the South Bay.Free every quarter,Covering adventure, travel, culture, and lifestyle.

Along California’s coast, a couple of surfers are out doing the daily, after-class surf check. Driving to

the beach in their pickup, with boards in the back, the windows down, and some classic rock on the

radio, they approach the first spot. The anticipation of glassy, head-high peelers is quickly diminished

when instead, they see only textured, knee-high, blown-out surf. Without stopping, they’re off to the

next spot. With their hope of finding some good surf shattered from the first check, their expectations

of finding epic surf are already low before they roll up to the next spot. Traveling a few miles south to

a break that normally provides something to ride, the surf still looks the same—blown-out, although a

little larger. There is still one more spot to check further to the south, located in a bay. As the driver

maneuvers the truck to hug the curb, they can see the promising surf over the hill ahead. The two of

them couldn’t put their wetsuits on fast enough. The swell rolling in is producing shoulder-high rights

and lefts, and there’s a slight side-shore wind. Why was the surf bigger and cleaner further south?

When you’re determining where to start your surf check, you should consider the source and

characteristics of the arriving swell energy. There are two types of swell: ground and wind. Ground swell

is typically swell that travels over very long distances to reach the coastline. For instance, the winter

storms in the far north Pacific produce ground swell aimed at the western United States. Wind swell,

on the other hand, is locally generated ground swell. Hence, the location of the strong, swell-producing

winds is close to the coastline and the swell does not have to travel as far.

Another distinction between ground swell and wind swell is the strength of the prevailing

winds on the fetch, or the area of the ocean’s surface that is affected. A ground swell-producing storm

will have stronger winds (�0-50 knots) blowing in the same direction and lasting longer than those of

a wind-swell. A typical winter storm in the north Pacific can have a fetch that measures hundreds of

square miles. Ground swell from a large fetch will produce bigger and stronger surf than a wind swell

due to the longer period (time from peak to peak of each wave) of the swell.

In addition to the type of swell arriving along our coast, the direction of the swell is very

important. The South Bay coastline is situated in the southern part of the Santa Monica Bay, facing west

and slightly north, with the northern part of the bay facing primarily south to southwest. Ground swell

typically comes from the north in the winter and from the south in the summer. Wind swell most often

comes from the north since the coastal winds blow north to south, although wind swell can also come

from the south from time to time. The winter swell window for the South Bay is quite narrow, as there are few ground swells that

arrive with a direct hit to our coast. Most often, swells generated north of us will refract around Point

Conception, which is approximately 100 miles north of Santa Barbara, and wrap into the South Bay. The

size and consistency of surf from a refracted swell will vary, but this was probably the contributing factor

as to why the surfers described above found bigger surf along a different stretch of coastline. Also, the

bay offered protection from the onshore winds that were adversely affecting the other two spots.

Other aspects to consider when determining where to surf in the South Bay are the Channel

Islands to the north and Catalina to the south. Often Catalina will block a ground swell from the south

and cast a shadow of significantly reduced surf along the coast.

The coastline of Los Angeles County is ideally situated such that every day of the year, one can

find waves to surf. The South Bay has the advantage of being sheltered from the southerly winds by Point

Conception to the north. However, this point also works against South Bay surf, as it narrows the swell

window during the fall and winter months. Generally, the winter window ranges from late September

through the end of March, whereas the summer window ranges from April through September.

The tools required to determine your next epic surf session are the swell type, direction, period,

and height. This information is available for free and for purchase from a suite of ocean weather and

wave forecasting websites. I recommend the National Data Buoy Center website (www.ndbc.noaa.gov).

All the information required to determine the “when” and “where” of your next surf session is available

for free on this site. With a little research before your next surf session, you will have more quality water

time and less time spent in the car. Surf often, surf hard and see you out there. TM

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by nick johansen

� • TREKKER MAGAZINE • W/07

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IN THE NEXT ISSUE OF TM.adventure. travel. culture.

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Getting there: Take the 405 N to the 10 W to the 1 N. Take a right onto Topanga Canyon Boulevard (drive approximately 4.7 miles), then take a right onto Entrada Road (drive approximately 1 mile), and finally a left into Topanga State Park at Trippet Ranch.Difficulty: ModerateOverall Experience: Well worth itNotes: Cost of parking is $6 – trail maps are available at the ranger station for $2. Bring food and plenty of water (water is available at Trippet Ranch, but not on the trail). Bring sunscreen, since there is not much shade on the trail.

The Dirt. Trail BriefS.

Eagle Rock Loop in Topanga State Parkby marcie samueleStanding atop Eagle Rock, the ocean breeze sends a chill through my body as it collides with my sweat-drenched shirt. I sift through my backpack in search of my peanut butter and jelly sandwich, hoping it survived the two-mile trek to Topanga State Park’s most significant sandstone rock formation. Despite the sun’s direct rays, the protruding goose bumps blanketing my body force me into one of the caves on Eagle Rock in search of refuge from the constant northern gusts. Surrounded by my sandstone safe haven, my limbs relax as if I am sitting in a La-Z-Boy recliner, while my taste buds savor the timeless combina-tion of PB and J and my eyes delight in the backdrop of the Santa Monica mountains and the Pacific Ocean. Approximately 4.5 miles above the all too familiar stop-and-go crawl on Pacific Coast Highway, tucked behind the curves of Topanga Canyon Boulevard, is a sanctuary familiar to hikers, trail runners, mountain bikers, and horseback rid-ers. Topanga State Park possesses 36 miles of maintained trails, vast fields of characteristic California chaparral, and rugged sandstone rock formations ideal for catching your breath and enjoying a soggy peanut butter and jelly sandwich. The trailhead to Eagle Rock begins at Trippet Ranch, where you have the opportunity to use the restroom and fill your water bottles. Be sure to take plenty of water, as it will be essential for the two-mile uphill climb to Eagle Rock. As you pass the sign denoting “Eagle Rock – 2 miles” you find yourself on Eagle Springs Fire Road surrounded by the footprints of other hikers. Just feet from the trailhead, continue to the right of the kiosk, and bear left where the trail begins its 800 foot verti-cal ascent to Eagle Rock. Despite the continual elevation gain, Eagle Springs Fire Road is an easy trail to trek, as it is wide and consists of a combination of more sand than rock, thus creating terrain that remains free of many obstacles common among other trails – tree roots, ditches, and jagged rocks. At the four-way intersection of Musch Trail, Hub Junction, Eagle Rock Fire Road, and Eagle Springs Fire Road (approximately 1.4 miles), follow the sign to Hub Junction (sign reads “Eagle Rock Fire Road to Hub Junction – 1.3 miles”). Yes, this trail continues to climb, but Eagle Rock (1,957 feet) is just a short 0.6-mile distance away and a mandatory place to stop and rest your throbbing legs. After a rejuvenating respite of mountain and ocean vistas and explorations in rock caves, continue to Hub Junction by bearing to the right onto the trail off of Eagle Rock. At Hub Junction make a sharp right and follow the sign to Eagle Junc-tion (sign reads “Eagle Springs Fire Road to Eagle Junction – 1.3 miles”). Returning to Eagle Springs Fire Road is a celebrated achievement, because the trail begins its descent to Trippet Ranch at this point. At the familiar four-way intersection, you can decide to return to Trippet Ranch via Musch Trail or continue on Eagle Springs Fire Road, which re-traces your steps. Musch Trail is a half-mile longer, but it diverts you from the fire roads and provides the opportunity to trek a more traditional hiking trail – a narrow path shaded by tall trees, through vast grass-lands, and over creek beds. Once you pass Musch Campground, only one mile remains between you and your air-conditioned escape vehicle.

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please see masthead on page 5

chris hall on san juan trail photo: tyler wallace

Marcie Samuele on Eagle Rockphoto: rocco samuele

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Getting there: Take the 405N to the 10E to the Western Ave. exit. Travel N on Western Ave. and turn right when it ends (approx. 5 miles), then take an immediate left into Griffith Park on Fern Dell Drive. The parking lot is approx. 0.3 miles from entrance. Difficulty: Moderate Overall Experience: Well worth the drive and timeNotes: Although there are water spickets on the trail, carry water

Getting there: Take the 405S to the 5S to the Ortega Hwy (74E). After approx. 12.7 miles, take a left at the dirt road which leads behind a small fire station. You will come across a dirt parking lot with a restroom near the center. The lower trailhead empties into this area. Difficulty: Very demandingOverall Experience: ExcellentNotes: More info at Mtbreview.com.

San Juan Trailby tyler wallaceThe San Juan Trail, located in the Cleveland National Forest, is a great ride for those looking for a challenge, plenty of physical exertion, and a panoply of beauti-ful terrain. Near San Clemente, this remote trail offers rough sections where jagged rocks are welded into the surrounding clay, as well as smooth, hard-packed por-tions where your speed is constantly in check by nearby washouts and drop-offs. Short portions of the ride exist in forested areas where the tree canopy offers some re-spite from the intense sun; otherwise, shade is rare on the San Juan Trail, so savor it while it lasts. How much climbing can you handle? If you’re a masochist, start at the lower trailhead; you’ll be sure to get an intense cardio workout. The ride from the lower to upper trailhead (located in the Blue Jay campground) is 11 miles. The round trip (22 miles) takes experienced rid-ers about four hours, although the riding time can vary depending on ones ability and the trail conditions. If you’d rather cut out the burn of a lengthy climb, then make this a shuttle ride—drop a car off at the lower trailhead and carry the bikes and riders to the up-per trailhead in another car. But remember to bring the keys to the car you’re leaving at the bottom—if you don’t, you may be in for more riding than you bargained for. Also, remember to leave an Adventure Pass (available at REI and various ranger stations) in each of the cars you park at the trailheads, or else you may get a “friendly” note from the rangers. If you decide to ride from the lower trailhead, you’ll experience most of the vertical climbing over the first five miles. After that, you’ll come across Cocktail Rock. This is a great place to have a snack and catch your breath. From here you will have the choice of continu-ing up the “Old San Juan Trail” to the left or up the “San Juan Trail” to the right. Both trails end up in the same place after a few miles. The remaining six miles are less demanding than the first half of the ride. Remember, the ride back down is definitely worth it. In general, it’s fairly easy to find your way on this ride. There aren’t many trail mergers, and the San Juan Trail is generally more worn than other deer trails. But, if this is your first time riding the trail, consider bringing a topographic map, compass, and cyclometer to monitor your progress and reduce the likelihood of be-coming lost. Arrive prepared and remain careful throughout the ride. Aside from the trail itself, be wary of poison oak, rattlesnakes, and mountain lions, as they are known to make an occasional appearance. It’s advised that riders get off to an early morning start, and bring plenty of wa-ter and food. While riding the trail, you will be unable to detect any mark of civilization except for short glimpses of the Ortega Hwy far in the distance. If you’ve never ridden this trail, I encourage you to do so; it is nothing less than amazing.

Mt. Hollywood Trail in Griffith Parkby Marcie SamueleAt 6:00 a.m. on a Sunday morning, I wipe the sleep from my eyes as I navigate the Los Angeles freeways, traveling just a bit faster than the posted speed limit. I already feel that I’ve accomplished a lot since I have risen before the rest of the city. And although I’m still miles from the trail, I know this is going to be a great run. The Mount Hollywood trail is the most pop-ular in Griffith Park. It is great for avid trail runners and optimal for first-timers, for the terrain is mainly an even, ankle-friendly fire road spotted with occasion-al rocks. The five-mile course begins just beyond the parking lot that is 0.� miles from the Fern Dell Drive entrance of the park, where parking is free. From the parking lot, the restrooms denote the trailhead. At the trailhead, the trail immediately begins as a steep-graded path to the summit. Although you continue to climb for the first 2.5 miles of the run, the trail is fairly easy to navigate since there are not many twists or turns. The first junction you encounter is at Griffith Observatory, which is an ideal place to give your heart an opportunity to return to its normal beat-ing pattern. A word of caution though, Griffith Obser-vatory is currently under construction, so approach the area with vigilance and know that parts of the trail may be diverted as a result of the construction – making the run a bit more difficult. After enjoying views of downtown L.A. and the Hollywood sign, continue running on the Char-lie Turner Trail, whose trailhead is just north of the Griffith Observatory parking lot. After a short climb, the trail provides a quick downhill recovery opportu-nity. But enjoy this short downhill bout because once you cross the bridge, the trail steadily climbs until you reach the summit. At the first junction, continue to the left where wide-open views of the Hollywood sign help take your mind off of your burning calves. As you near the top of Mount Hollywood, continue to the right and complete the final climb to the summit. Here you can catch your breath and marvel at more remarkable views of the L.A. basin as well as the eastern San Fernando Valley. And if you are a runner who craves the saltiness of pea-nuts or the sweetness of dried fruit, then you can utilize the picnic tables to enjoy a snack you bring to the top. Once you return to the trail, continue right off the summit to complete the summit loop. As you pro-ceed downhill, you will pass Dante’s View just before the junction you crossed on the ascent. If your body feels a break is necessary, Dante’s View is a garden of lush plants and trees, which provide shade to picnic tables. Otherwise, continue downhill and re-trace your steps back to the trailhead.

Sixty mile per hour winds, ice-encased snowflakes, and numbingly cold temperatures typically invoke thoughts of a steaming cup of hot cocoa, a plushy fleece blanket, and a good book by the fireside. Unless, of course, you are standing atop a glacier on

Blackcomb Mountain in British Columbia, Canada, with a snowboard tightly bound to your boots that strangely resemble those worn by Neil Armstrong on the surface of the moon. Armed with hand warmers inside the liners of my mittens, I was forced to bury my face behind every inch of my jacket in search of refuge from nature’s fury. However, despite these treacherous conditions upon the glacier, an ear-to-ear smile was hard to avoid, because really, does it get any better? Sitting in ass-numbing snow, eagerly waiting for my opportunity to drop in, I watched the awkward movements of my friend as she bounced through the iced-over, jagged snowdrifts dispersed among Blackcomb glacier. She quickly became a small, dark, moving speck. She carved for what felt like hours before her silhouette was engulfed by the vast whiteness of the glacier’s surface. I took a deep breath, pushed my shivering body to a standing position, and began to glide across the rim of the glacier. Before I gained the courage to turn my board down the mountain, I rested on my heels. The cold mountain air was refreshingly clean, but the low temperature burned my throat and lungs. This was it, so I enjoyed one last view from the top and turned to embrace the fierce wind on my exposed cheeks as I repeated to myself, “toe, heel, toe, heel.” The falling snowflakes pounded against my goggles, creating zero visibility. Instant panic spread through my mind for I knew a fall on the glacier equated to immense pain. However, my panic was quickly abolished by the exhilaration of the moment. It was impossible to remain silent, and as I met my friends on the cat track at the base of the glacier, I was still yelling “Wahoo!” Out of breath, we were giddy as schoolgirls because of the mile we had just traveled and the six miles that still lay ahead to the base of the mountain. In 2003, Whistler/Blackcomb, the “sister mountains” of Canada’s Coast Mountain Range, proudly boasted a new title, “Number One Ski Resort in North America” (Skiing Magazine). Although this title added to the enticement of the resort, the mountains’ statistics are what continually impress skiers and boarders season after season. With a combined �,100 skiable acres, Whistler/Blackcomb’s accessible terrain dominates that of popular American resorts. One lift pass provides access to both mountains and their 33 lifts, which haul skiers and boarders to more than 200 maintained runs. Even more impressive, though, is Whistler/Blackcomb’s one vertical mile of mountainous terrain to carve through. And with the highest lift rising to just under 7,500 feet, those who worry about altitude sickness can ride to the top with confidence. Base elevations are approximately 2,200 feet, commonly creating uncharacteristic weather conditions for a ski resort. Often, as it snows at the summit, it rains at the base. And when the skies are clear and the sun is blazing, there is a marked difference in the snow conditions between the summit and the base–hard, packed snow or powder at the summit versus heavy, wet snow at the base. My friends and I commented how the condition of the snow at the base made us feel as if we were carving through sand. Included among the mountains’ 200 runs are five terrain parks and three half-pipes (ranging in wall heights from 13 feet to 1�.5 feet), catering to skiers and boarders who enjoy the thrill of grinding rails or catching air. Regardless of one’s experience with terrain parks, Whistler/Blackcomb has something for everyone, with park ratings suitable for beginners to experts. As the future host of the 2010 Winter Olympics, Whistler Mountain also provides the ordinary skier or boarder with the opportunity to feel like an Olympian, by granting access to the snow cross track as well as the men’s and women’s Downhill Super G Courses. In addition to their immense daytime activities, Whistler/Blackcomb also caters to those diehards who still have energy after a punishing day. For skiers and boarders who crave the excitement of doing tricks into the night hours, the Night Superpipe and the Night Moves terrain park on Magic Chair are open Thursday, Friday, and Saturday evenings from December to March. If you’re looking for a thrill of a different kind, you can rent a snowmobile and cut some tracks on Blackcomb Mountain. My experience was particularly memorable—for about one hundred bucks, I nearly had to bench press the machine off my chest, after taking a turn a little too abruptly. And for those who prefer to rest their aching muscles off the mountain, Whistler/Blackcomb offers an array of bars and lounges, where Canadian brew, live music, dancing, and cigars are common sights. Although getting to Whistler/Blackcomb is an arduous task–a plane ride to Vancouver, a car rental at the airport, and a three-hour drive to the behemoths of North America – it is well worth the effort. And with the press already reporting significant snowfalls that arrived in early September of this year, Whistler/Blackcomb is off to a great start to open another season guaranteed to impress any mountain enthusiast. TM

Canada’s Monsters: Whistler/Blackcombby Marcie Samuele

photo: tyler wallace

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2007 Snow Preview

While you’ve been sitting at your day job with your virtual skis or snowboard strapped to your feet, Southern California’s favorite snow destinations have been getting ready for the 2006/2007 season. What have they done and where do you plan to go this season? This season preview will answer the former and help with the latter.

With a glove on each edge, I lifted my snowboard high above my head, and, with all my strength, drove it into the snow nose first. I took off my gloves and

ran my fingers hard through my hair, and thought, “that’s it”—another season is under my belt. California, Colorado, British Columbia, all in one season, and I still remember it all so vividly. Last season was my most prodigious, and I thought of it often during the long summer. Well, the hot summer is finally over, and I’ve been brimming with anticipation for the dark, winter clouds to dump their first batch of flakes to start the 2006/2007 season. For some of us, the chance to risk our brittle knees, hit our favorite jib twice as hard, or navigate another steep alpine chute is almost here. Yep, another season to reach top speeds and cartwheel uncontrollably, hands—skis—head—feet—back, tossing your hat and gloves far from the scene—just to have the cute little rescue dog resuscitate you with his ferocious breath. Maybe a helmet is in order this year. This is an ongoing internal battle of mine. I’ve thought of it many times, and I’m the master of excuses. “I’m hot enough as it is—I don’t need a damn pressure cooker on my head,” “it narrows my field of view, and may actually be more dangerous than riding without one,” or, my favorite and least intelligible excuse, “I’ve been riding for 14 years, I haven’t needed one yet.” Whatever your internal battles happen to be for the upcoming season, expect to see lift lines grow, as droves of skiers and boarders head to the high country in search of deep powder and sunny days—extraordinarily so on peak days, such as mid-season Saturdays and the dreaded rush of President’s Day. While your busted ankle has been recovering in the off-season, resorts such as Mammoth Mountain, Mountain High, and Big Bear Mountain, have been making improvements. They plan to accommodate their guests more efficiently and place more focus on freestyle riding, families, and events on the mountain. It’s time to get your finances in order for a new set of skis, a board, or whatever new-fangled device you may be riding this season, or to simply get your oldie tuned-up for the first snow. The days of delicate snow angels and debilitating face plants are near, so I’d like to run down what Southern California’s favorite snow destinations have to offer and what they’ve done in the off-season.

by Rocco Samuele

2007 Snow PreviewWhere are you going this winter?

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Mammoth MountainAnnual snowfall at Mammoth Mountain has been steadily increasing since the 2000/2001 season, and last year brought a record breaking 55 feet of snow. A climatologist I am not, but I am anxious for another record powder onslaught. If you’ve got a free weekend and the urge to drive, this is the Holy Grail for Southern Californians. It is only a five-hour drive and Mammoth Mountain lives up to its name. If by some misfortune, however, you get caught behind an accident on the 395, it could take longer—perhaps much longer. I recall a three-hour detour through the great Mojave on a return trip last season. Don’t let this discourage you, as a combination of factors make Mammoth a great choice: weekend trips are possible, you get plenty of deep stuff, and of course steep chutes, open bowls, and some of the best tree runs a resort could offer. Mammoth Mountain offers 3,500 skiable acres, and boasts one of the longest seasons in the country (spanning November to July if snow permits). Assuming that decent snow coverage comes early and often, November 9th will be the season opener at Mammoth Mountain. In 2006 Mammoth was voted the “Best Resort Overall in North America” by Transworld Snowboarding, beating out Canada’s colossal Whistler/Blackcomb (see page 11). Over the past decade Mammoth Mountain has pumped over $150 million into on-mountain improvements. This off-season, they spent $8 million in preparation for the upcoming season. Mammoth continues to develop the Unbound Terrain Parks and is trying to make trips to the High Sierra more enjoyable for the kids. The immense Unbound Terrain Parks of Mammoth Mountain have been rated second for “Parks and Pipes 2006” by Transworld Snowboarding and best “Terrain Park in North America 2006” by Freeskier Magazine. This collection of terrain offers over 75 acres on eight trails, three parks, and three half-pipes (a 10 footer, 18 footer, and an immense 22 footer). Mammoth Mountain is currently one of the only resorts in the world to maintain three half-pipes. They also engineer more than 50 jumps and 50 jibs throughout the terrain. Remarkably, each half-pipe is re-shaped each evening and the Unbound staff engineers each of the park’s jumps in a similar style, such that a smaller jump is a scaled-down version of a larger jump. The same goes for its jibs and half-pipes. Mammoth Mountain is opening the Top of the Sierra Interpretive Center to educate visitors about the Mammoth Mountain region and the “dynamic nature of the Eastern Sierra.” Located atop Mammoth Mountain’s 11,053 foot summit, the center includes an interactive learning center and another food court, offering soups, sandwiches, and snacks. Mammoth Mountain wants to make the family experience even better by opening the new slope-side, Eagle Lodge Ski and Snowboard School. This new learning center offers a full menu of group and private lessons and includes a new 350 foot long surface lift for kids and newbies alike. This is the first stage of a redevelopment that is slated for completion in the 2009/2010 season.

June Mountain…an alternative up North…If Mammoth Mountain gets a bit too crowded for your patience, you can always give June Mountain a try. For High Sierra snow it’s a nice alternative, with 2,590 feet of vertical; it’s also a bit lighter on the wallet. Having a summit at 10,090 feet and a nice spread of 500 skiable acres, June Mountain also has three freestyle parks, Mambo, Sunrise, and Gunsmoke, complete with a Superpipe (16.5 feet walls) and plenty of jumps, jibs, and interesting terrain. Weather permitting, June Mountain will open its doors for the winter season on December 16.

Mountain HighIf you’ve got a free Saturday and are itching for some snow, one great choice is “Southern California’s closest ski and snowboard destination,” Mountain High, which tends to open in mid November. Mountain High is actually three resorts: West, North, and East (topping out at 8,200 feet). The West resort is for technical riding, with freestyle terrain and technical trails, and is geared toward the “freestyle culture.” The North resort, new as of last season, caters mostly to families and novices. Finally, the East resort is for the cruising types and offers an “alpine experience” with trails over 1.5 miles long, conjuring up views of the Mojave Desert. The Mountain High resorts offer 290 acres of skiable terrain, with an average annual snowfall of 210 inches over the past eight years. Advanced snowmaking technology is a cornerstone to Mountain High’s success. Mountain High is spending $2 million on improvements for this season. On the West Resort, this includes relocating the Coyote and Roadrunner chairlifts to relieve congestion and provide easier access, renovating the base deck, and installing a new surface lift to get novice guests to the Winter Sports School more easily. The deck renovation will bring a new patio bar, barbeque, fire pit, equipment check, and a permanent stage for live entertainment. The sport shop and restaurant inside the lodge are also getting a facelift. Those who like to ride in the terrain parks will be seeing new features as well, “some which you [can] go over, some which you [can] go under, and some which you can go through”, according to John McColly, a spokesman for the mountain. Mountain High has also installed a new music and video entertainment system, making the evening experience on the mountain even better. Finally, The North Resort is getting a new 340 foot moving carpet leading to the North Pole Tubing Park, while work continues on the base lodge. Mountain High has a few interesting alternatives to the traditional lift ticket. You can purchase a Flex Ticket, with which you get to ski or ride in four- or eight-hour blocks, and the clock starts when you do. They also offer a Point Ticket where you can tally up your snow-time in terms of the runs you ski or ride. The system is simple; each lift is assigned a point value, ranging from 10 to 20 points, and you can buy lift passes in 200, 500, or 1,000 point bundles. The points are fully transferable to the following season, and you can share them with others. So when you’re grabbing your gear out of your car after you’ve already purchased your Point Ticket, and your significant other turns to you and says, “Honey, I forgot my boots,” you’ve still got a chance to hit the mountain—next weekend. TM

Big Bear Mountain ResortsThe two resorts of Big Bear, Bear Mountain and Snow Summit, are nestled in the San Bernardino Mountains, just outside of Los Angeles. Big Bear is no secret, as many Angelenos grew up with frequent winter voyages to this stretch of land, which offers over 430 skiable acres. Bear Mountain (8,805 feet) is the nation’s only all-mountain freestyle park, with over 150 jumps and 80 jibs to boot. And with the addition of a Zaugg Pipe Monster in 2005, the staff at Bear Mountain can carve out Southern California’s only Superpipe (22 foot walls). That’s not all Bear Mountain is good for; it has plenty of terrain to choose from for both the novice and the expert. Look for Big Bear Mountain to open its doors to skiers and boarders around late November, weather permitting of course. For a more relaxed and family-oriented experience, you can hop on the free shuttle over to Snow Summit (8,200 feet) and ski or ride on the same lift ticket. Snow Summit is for the cruisers among us, with expansive groomed runs and less challenging terrain. The Family Park is a great place to take those that are riding for the first time, or who want to slow things down a bit. The terrain is gradual and everyone’s speed is kept in check. The Family Park is spread across five trails and includes small jumps, rollers, bumps, and other terrain to get you ready for the juicy stuff. Big Bear averages about 100 inches of snow annually (averaged over five years), so snowmaking is a top priority. In the off-season they pumped $6 million into mountain improvements, including advancing their snow-making capability. This will ensure more reliable snow coverage with better quality. They now have over 40 Super Wizzard snow guns so they can open more terrain earlier in the season.

photo courtesy of Mountain High

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Upon driving out of the San Bernardino Valley, we encountered the masses, mini vans and luxury sedans, spinning and sliding their way to the highway patrol checkpoint. I threw the truck into 4x4 and cruised right by the checkpoint officer and his steaming cup of coffee, only to come across a cyclist walking his road bike down the road in shin deep snow. This guy had made a wrong turn a long time ago. Moments later we rolled into Mt. Baldy village and were welcomed by two feet of snow on the ground. Strangely, we witnessed our first snowballs wrapped around car antennas, which are still a mystery to me. Arriving at the base of the Mt. Baldy ski resort, we could see the small, single-family home sized Mt. Baldy lodge with a ten skier deep line out front and a single, two-seater chair slowly pulling skiers into the clouds. The staff was extraordinarily friendly, but probably sick of hearing everybody talk about how much powder there was, as they were stuck in the office selling tickets while we were out skiing on their mountain with epic conditions.

The Time: Winter 2006.The Place: Mt. Baldy, located in the San Gabriel Mountains, the scenic backdrop of 10,000 foot mountain peaks to the northeast of downtown Los Angeles. The Crew: The talented alpine skier Michelle Creedon and myself, a budding backcountry telemark skier/mountaineer. The Mission: Explore Mt. Baldy on skis and snowshoes after a night of snowfall that left three to four feet of fresh, un-groomed pow on top of Mt. Baldy’s predominantly black diamond rated terrain.

Los Angeles is more commonly known for its tourist trap Hollywood museums and restaurants, infamous “park-ing lot” freeways, miles of long, warm, sandy beaches, and year round surf—not waist-deep, fluffy champagne

powder on top of incredibly steep southern California mountains. An extremely cold storm that dropped hail on the beaches of the South Bay stalled long enough over the San Gabriel Mountains to provide the deep, Colorado-quality snow.

by Nick Johansen

Powder StashesaroundL.A.

Nick tearing it up on the first run of the day.

The first chair ride up was long, although it gave us time to check out the steep, black diamond chutes dropping off the mountain to our right. In between long gazes into the chutes looming ahead, we had time to examine the frozen, antiquated wood slat chair we were perched upon. We couldn’t help but contemplate the years of weathering these relics had endured, and the character that each chair offered. We were greeted at the top of the first chair by an old “liftie” in cut up ski pants and a T-shirt; meanwhile we were struggling to keep our chins buried in the tops of our jackets. The first chair brought us to a saddle (the Baldy Notch) located at 7,800 feet and from there a chair took off to the left up towards the 10,064 foot peak of Mt. San Antonio (Old Baldy). A short ski down to the right brought us to the chair that leads to the �,5�7 foot summit of Thunder Mountain. After another long ride to the top, we were ready for our first descent. With the sun poking through the clouds, visibility was better and we were able to connect some tight turns in knee deep fresh stuff. We skied this chair most of the day, as the first chair we rode had some un-skiable terrain midway down, and the chair that went up towards Mt. Baldy was closed due to dangerous conditions. We skied through the morning hours with less than a five-minute wait in the lift line each time and little rest. After all that pounding, the legs were burning and lunch was in order. We grabbed a quick lunch in the Mt. Baldy main lodge located on the saddle. The main lodge is a cafeteria-style, rustic lodge with a small rental shop and a great collection of old time ski equipment hanging on the walls. It was the perfect place to share a table with strangers and trade ski stories. We got a handful of runs in after lunch, but the word had spread and the masses made it up the mountain. So we decided to pack it up and head to the Mt. Baldy Ski hut trailhead, just up the hill from Manker flat campground. The second part of our adventure began with strapping on Michelle’s new snowshoes and my hiking boots. We wanted to explore the terrain and snow leading up to the ski hut. A short walk along a snow-covered fire road led us to the single track that contained partially filled-in footprints. The snow was coming down heavily as we made our way up the trail, with me post holing up to my waist and Michelle way ahead of me with a snow roaster tail out the back. We met a few mountaineers on their way down with fully frosted beards and backpacks loaded with mountaineering gear. They mentioned that the hike was tough through the snow, and ice axes as well as crampons were required along the routes. We continued up the snow-covered trail for a quarter mile or so but decided to turn back. Visibility was getting worse because the sun was going down, and the snow was continuing to fall. Overall, skiing and hiking Mt. Baldy was an amazing experience, not to be forgotten or dwarfed by other ski trips to more prestigious ski resorts. To wake up five minutes from the beach in the South Bay and ski in Rocky or Sierra Mountains-quality snow in the same day was unreal. The majority of the terrain was quite difficult (55 % black, �0 % blue, 15 % green), but we both would definitely recommend the adventure to others. Mt. Baldy is currently assessing whether or not to provide access to more terrain up there with a few more lifts—pending approval from landowners. Keep an eye on upcoming winter storms and get out there. TM

Michelle making short work of the waist-deep powder in the trees.

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Williamson Rock, Climb-offAn interview with Troy Mayr

by Rocco Samuele

Arguably the most convenient and worthwhile rock climber’s getaway for the Southland is only a two-hour drive north from the South Bay and an hour into the San Gabriel Mountains

north of Los Angeles (off of State Route 2). Williamson Rock, the crag most frequented by So Cal climbers, is part of a larger area east of the Buckhorn Campground that has been converted into a protected habitat for the Mountain Yellow-Legged Frog (MYLF). This section of the Angeles National Forest is also home to a small section of the Pacific Crest Trail, which has been diverted as a result of the protected habitat. In fact, the closure is nothing new, as it has been in effect since December of 2005. A veteran So Cal climber, Troy Mayr, and his non-profit organization, Friends of Williamson Rock (FoWR), would like to restore climbing access while preserving the delicate habitat of this species. The reason for the MYLF’s decline is not well understood, but as Troy has stated, “it is noteworthy that climbers have not impacted the MYLF, nor have any of the frogs been observed in the immediate vicinity of the crag—they are upstream and downstream.” I recently posed a few questions to Troy to shed some light on the progress being made to restore access to a large swath of So Cal rock.

FoWR has worked diligently with the U.S. Forest Service, U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service, the U.S. Geological Survey, the Access Fund, as well as other organizations to restore climbing access to Williamson Rock. In your opinion, why is this crag worth fighting for?

Williamson Rock is Southern California’s premier summer sport climbing crag! What other area offers such a wide variety of routes for climbers of all abilities in a beautiful mountain setting that is an escape from the summer heat?

Please explain why it is so important for climbers and hikers to honor the current Williamson Rock closure.

For starters, it is against the law to climb there now. The federal government, land managers as well as many in the private sector take the protection of endangered species very seriously, which is appropriate and justified. FoWR also feels that the MYLF needs to be protected. As climbers, it is our collective responsibility to respect this closure to ensure that we maintain a good relationship and can continue to work in cooperation with the U.S. Forest Service and other government agencies to resolve the issue of climber access. These agencies have all been very amiable to FoWR and have expressed, on numerous occasions, their desire to come to a solution to allow climbers to have future access to Williamson. Whether we feel climbers as a group have a negative effect on the frogs or not, it is imperative that we respect this closure until mitigation measures can be set forth to insure that the MYLF habitat is protected; it is simply the right thing to do.

What alternate climbing locations do you suggest for eager So Cal climbers?

For sport climbing, Malibu, Echo, the Riverside Quarry, but those areas are very hot in the summer. It may be time to do some trad climbing in Idylwilde or bouldering at Horse Flats, Black Mountain or the Tram. For weekend sport climbing trips Owens River would be the call.

Can you provide a few examples of the measures that will be taken to ensure the preservation of the MYLF habitat after climbers, hikers, and other outdoor enthusiasts are allowed back?

These are in the preliminary stages but may include measures such as seasonal closures, trail maintenance, educational signage, toilet installation and the use of wag bags for human waste at the crag. For those unfamiliar with wag bags, they are a self-contained backcountry waste management system; in short, you pack it out then dispose of it. These are becoming widely used in other areas.

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Do you have an estimate as to when climbing access is expected to resume at Williamson Rock?

I can only guess that it will be around the summer of 2008; while 2007 is still a possibility, of course there are no guarantees.

What can the climbing community do to help FoWR?

That’s simple. Join our mailing list online at www.williamsonrock.org. When the time comes for action, we will e-mail those on the list. In the meantime, check the blog on our website for occasional updates.

Do you have anything else you’d like to tell us?

Nearly 15 years ago I was establishing new routes at Williamson, with only a handful of others who knew of the crag, including Sam Ownings. At that point I came to the conclusion that Williamson would one day become a very popular place. I always thought of it as a kind of climber’s park—remember these were the days that sport climbing was not widely accepted. At that point, myself and Randy Vogel made the proactive decision to contact the Forest Service to prepare the area for its future popularity, namely dealing with human waste issues, trail improvements, etc. After we had an initially successful series of conversations with the Forest Service, they had a change in management and our project was dropped. Looking back, I think it would have been a great starting point for climber and Forest Service stewardship of Williamson. It’s too bad that more forward thinking cannot be implemented; many issues seem to be the result of crisis management. I don’t believe that this would have prevented the current closure of Williamson, but it could have provided valuable framework and an important ongoing relationship between climbers and the Forest Service. It is important to emphasize there are other significant pressures placed on the Forest Service from other federal agencies as well as the threat of lawsuits from groups in the private sector. I completely understand the Forest Service’s position and why they made the decision they did. In the case of Williamson they felt that the best course of action was to close the area until an effective plan could be drafted, approved, and put into motion, and unfortunately for us, this is not nearly as easy at it appears. It is also noteworthy that climbers have NOT impacted the MYLF, nor have any of the frogs been observed in the immediate vicinity of the crag; they are upstream and downstream. The upper-level Forest Service management has been very helpful, and this cannot be over emphasized. We are very fortunate that this is the case.

A bio of Troy Mayr: Troy began climbing in 1983, and has been extensively involved in the Southern California climbing community ever since. He has established hundreds of first ascents, both traditional and sport routes, and was among the first climbers in the U.S. to climb the 5.1�a grade. Troy competed in National and World Cup climbing events in the late 80’s and early 90’s. Also at that time Troy was a pioneer in creating routes and entire areas devoted to sport climbing. He has authored five climbing guidebooks as well as numerous book segments and magazine articles. Troy is committed to preserving and promoting outdoor recreation. He has experience in developing and implementing Ropes Course trainings. Working as a climbing guide, Troy has consulted for the movie industry and the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers and developed climbing programs for outdoor schools. Recently Troy was elected to serve on the Board of Directors of the Access Fund, a national non-profit climbing advocacy group. TM

Odin Hill on “Hired Gun”, 5.10a, Generation Wall, Photo Credit: Troy Mayr

Troy Mayr on “World On Fire”, 5.12b/c, London Wall,

Photo Credit: Stan Roy

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FEATURED PHOTOGRAPHER.John Post. Total Solar Eclipse with Baobab Tree

“It took two days of searching near the Zambezi River to find a lone Baobab tree.”

See more of John’s work at his Manhattan Beach Gallery or at www.johnpost.com©John Post/johnpost.com. Location: Zimbabwe, Africa. Camera: Fuji 617 Panorama, 90mm lens. Film: Fuji NPH. Tripod: Bogen.

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Arriving in the northern Zimbabwe village of Muzarabani, I was thrilled to see a scattering of large Baobabs, the quintessential African Tree. I decided then that my eclipse image quest would include one of these trees with the sun during the total

eclipse—a mission more easily visualized than found in nature. It took two days of searching near the Zambezi River to find a lone Baobab tree that would be properly positioned with the eclipsed sun for my photo. On eclipse day I arrived early at my prior scouted location in the middle of a large cotton field. I set up my cameras and tripod and made sure I had film loaded. Over the next hour I kept refining the composition of my scene until it was “Total Eclipse Time.” Totality, when the Moon completely eclipses the Sun, then lasted five minutes and gave me the image above. One of the more memorable moments came after the eclipse. I was packing up my gear when my ears noticed a loud and growing sound of bees buzzing. It eventually grew into a cacophony of background buzzing noise. It then dawned on me that the eerily strange and almost magical silence that had come over the field during the eclipse was created when all the bees had left the field and returned to the hive during totality, as if it was night. As the sun “came back” so did the bees along with the buzzing noise they create. A total solar eclipse is a complete visual and sensory experience unrivaled in the Natural World, never failing to provide a special experience. Take note that you can observe a planet located southwest of the total solar eclipse. TM

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Horse Tracks in the Tibetan Plateauby Jennifer Wallace

The Chinese village of Songpan lies nestled in the mountains of Sichuan Province near the Tibetan Plateau. Tibetan influence crosses the border

and spills into the village, making sightings of their wine, jewelry, yaks, and even yak butter common. Surprisingly, the tiny village has the modern conveniences of a small bus station and an Internet cafe embedded within its traditional culture. But despite these modernizations, the village walls, blacksmith shops, and narrow walking streets remind visitors of a time when buses were not used to reach the village. However, that’s how Steve and I arrived in Songpan.

Our bus ride to Songpan was just the beginning of our adventure. We found ourselves on a narrow road meant for two lanes of opposing traffic that barely fit our bus. There were no guardrails, despite the road being hundreds of feet above the ravine below. Our driver would pass traffic with no consideration of who might be coming around the next bend. With a quick glance at our guidebook, we discovered it was known as one of the most dangerous roads in China. All we could do was look at each other and laugh our anxiety away. We reached Songpan thankful we had survived the journey. After a dinner of filling Chinese cuisine and Tibetan wine, we checked into our room and recovered from our brutal bus ride. We lay in our small beds chatting across the room about how nice it was going be to ride on horseback through the Tibetan Plateau and escape the Chinese chaos for a few days. We soon fell into a deep sleep and awoke the next morning to the annoying buzz of my Japanese alarm clock. Steve and I joined seven other travelers and evenly spread out all the materials for our trek amongst the horses; we packed tents, food, water, clothes, cooking materials and, of course, Tibetan wine. Our three-day journey into the surrounding mountains was about to begin. On horseback, we slowly approached the huge, snow-capped mountains that lay in the distance. Only small trees survived in valleys near the streams. Otherwise, scrub brush overtook the lowland landscape, while occasional fields of colorful wildflowers flourished nearby. Mountain streams flowed with ice-cold water, which crashed over boulders forming small rapids. As the horses crossed the rocky streams, refreshing water was splashed between riders. The horses seemed to enjoy this just as much as their riders. The nine of us rode all day, slowly gaining altitude as we climbed higher into the plateau. The intense, high-altitude sun scorched the strangest places on my fair skin. In the distance, we heard the faint squealing of an animal. We tried to ask the guides what it was, but had no luck communicating. Later, we passed a group of three men on horseback that had tied a goat to one of their horses. Now we understood. Apparently, this goat was dinner for them and was having a rough ride back to their dinner table. We reached a long valley after many hours of riding. Our campsite for the next two nights was set far up the valley among a few scattered abandoned buildings. A large field surrounded the neglected structures and a narrow river twisted throughout the field, making its way down the valley. One end of the field was covered with hundreds of Tibetan prayer flags, each about 15 feet high. These flags, made of threadbare fabric, were attached to poles that stood proudly in the rocky soil. Faded prayers were written on the fabric that flapped wildly in the mountain breeze, creating a peaceful and mesmerizing rhythm with each movement. That night around the campfire, after a satisfying feast prepared by the guides, we sang songs in each of our respective languages: French, English, Mandarin, Hebrew, and Spanish. The guides passed around unbearably strong Chinese liquor. Although it was a kind gesture, after only a few sips, I began politely touching my lips to the cup and pretended to drink before passing it on. This caught on among the other travelers at the campfire who didn’t want to refuse the guides’ offer, but couldn’t get themselves to swallow another drop. We woke the next morning to the clanging of pans as the guides made breakfast. After eating fresh bread and drinking tea, we began our second day on the trails. We rode single-file along the narrow, steep, uphill path, which led to our destination: Ice Mountain. The guides sang traditional Chinese songs, which sounded similar to Native American chants, as they called back and forth to each other along the trail. The calmness of their voices, the rhythm of the horses, and the heat of the sun created a feeling of tranquility. When we finally reached the base of Ice Mountain at an altitude of 14,000 feet, the temperature dropped, and the

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drastic change in altitude made each breath a chore. We dismounted our horses and slowly hiked a nearby trail, a few steps at a time, in hopes of gaining more altitude. We intended to push further up the trail, but at that altitude even a short hike felt like a marathon. We acknowledged our defeat and turned back to get our horses while dreaming about the easy ride we’d have into camp. However, by the time we got back to where we had left our horses, the guides were already pushing them back down the trail. The guides motioned that the trail was too steep and slippery for the horses to have us on their backs. It was evident that we would be on our own two feet for the long hike back to camp. On our downhill hike, we passed through a small Tibetan village straddling the trail on the steep side of the mountain. A family came out to greet us, and we sat down to play games with their children. Laughter filled the air. There was a unique beauty in our time spent together. Both parties knew our paths would never cross again, yet the interaction was overcome with love and acceptance, as if we were eternal friends. Tibetan people are known for their kindness, and this experience was overflowing with their positive energy. We returned to our campsite, and the guides began to prepare dinner. I quickly bathed in the nearby river and then offered to help. Knowing very little Mandarin, I resorted to a few rounds of charades to explain I wanted to help. They put me to work after a quick tour. One man showed me a unique contraption that they used as a bellow. A sheep hide had been sewn into a cone shape and the narrow end of the cone had a long metal pipe attached to it. The pipe was put into the coals of the fire. The man demonstrated that air was first trapped in the cone and then pushed out through the pipe. He helped me practice with the bellow and motioned to me as if my job was to keep the fire going. I focused for quite some time on my duties, until another man walked by and simply took the bellow away. I took this to mean my job was done. I returned to my Tibetan wine and watched the guides bake bread from scratch and make noodles from handmade dough. We feasted by the campfire with couple rounds of strong Chinese liquor. As the sun rose on our final morning together, we mounted our horses and began our voyage back to Songpan. Along the trail, prayer flags became a common sight. Occasionally, a Tibetan prayer wheel stood proudly on the side of the path. Shaped like a long cylinder standing on one end, it could be rotated on its axle by a person passing by. With each turn, a prayer could be read off the cylinder silently or chanted out loud. This prayer is believed to spread compassion. After a few hours on horseback, we reached a large complex of buildings, each filled with hundreds of prayer wheels. We circumambulated each building clockwise turning all the wheels as we passed. Some were made of wood and others were made of metal. Some were bigger than a grown man and some were smaller than a newborn child. Some took all my strength to turn while some took only a slight push with one finger. We circled the complex in silence. The repetition of turning each wheel and the slow walking pace created an ideal moment for contemplation. In China, it often seems impossible to escape traffic and crowds. Even the village of Songpan has a population of over 60,000 people. However, Songpan acted as our lily pad from which we could jump to leave the hustle and bustle of China and become surrounded by peace and nature. As we rode our horses the final stretch through the streets of Songpan, the traffic and honking resumed. We wanted nothing more than to be back on the trails…especially when we thought about the bus ride we’d have to take to get out of there! TM

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Among the Wild:A Photo Essay of Kenya’s Maasai Mara Reserve

Called “The kingdom of lions,” the Maasai Mara Reserve in Kenya is world famous for its impressive array of wild African game. As a contiguous

extension of the Serengeti National Park in Tanzania, it is named for the indigenous Maasai Tribe whose culture and lifestyle is deeply connected with the wildlife and the land. The Mara or the “Bush,” as it is more commonly known, is teeming with wildlife, and as the golden sun cooks its vast grasslands, many of its inhabitants are in search of shady solace. This park also plays host to one of nature’s most beautiful and impressive spectacles, The Great Migration. Millions of wildebeests, zebras, and gazelles of all shapes and sizes migrate to the more lush pastures of the north, while plenty of others scamper behind in search of dinner. Recently, three of us ladies spent a week on a safari doing game drives with our guide Daniel, a Maasai tribesman, who is highly educated about the flora and fauna of the land. We explored the terrain and wildlife of the Bush, where elephants, zebras, warthogs, giraffes and, of course, lions are as ordinary a find as Starbucks are in Los Angeles. Our drives would start as the sun rose so we could catch the early action of the animals. We would take a short break in the middle of the day to escape the heat, and conclude our evenings with a sunset cocktail in the Bush. Daniel would educate us about the animals and their Swahili names as well as explain the Maasai culture, including the history of the land and tribes. Camp was a classic “open-Bush” set-up with no fence to prevent wild animals from roaming through while we dined and slept. Great photographs are not hard to come by in this classic African predator/prey environment, where you can’t help but wonder where exactly you fit on the food chain.

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by Michelle CreedonWith photos by Joanna Laubshcer and Molly Snow

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1. No doubt who is king around here—a large male lion shows off his teeth as he relaxes with his pride after feasting on a zebra.2. We finally reach our destination, our camp in the Bush, via the fourth dirt runway we’ve landed on since departing from Nairobi.3. At least there was duty free shopping at the “airport.”4. Zebras catch a cool drink from the marsh, which provided some of the best viewing areas. The marsh is where all the ani-mals would come together, to cool down, and quench their thirst.5. Joanna and Daniel watch-ing the comings and goings on the banks of the Mara River. At some locations we were able to leave the safari truck and explore on foot with our guide.

6. An uncommon site, rush hour in the Bush, as safari groups watch young lion cubs play. The drives would last for hours, and you would not see a single soul, then out of nowhere you would run into five game drives, all sneaking a peek of some wild game.7. Giraffes plodding along after a long, hot day. Finally some cool relief as the sun goes down.8. A young giraffe takes time out of the day to glamorously pose for a photo.9. The bone yard at camp, an eerie collection of animal skulls, with the remains of ev-erything from small birds to elephants.

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CHIROPRACTICAdventure Chiropractic @ Premiere ClinicPerformance care for everybody.403 N. Pacific Coast Highway, RBwww.adventurechiropractic.com, 310.798.8777

DININGSamba Brazilian Steakhouse & BarWhere food and fun become one.207 N. Harbor Drive, RBwww.sambaredondo.com, 310.374.3411

EUROPEAN & ATHLETIC FOOTWEARRiviera Euro-Comfort FootwearWhere fashion meets comfort. Best selection of Euro-Comfort shoes in the South Bay.255 Avenida Del Norte, RB 310.316.1605and 2543 G PCH, Torrance 310.543.9611

FITNESSLadies Workout Express30-min interval training workout for women.Volunteers needed for fitness study, call now.4447 Redondo Beach Blvd., Lawndale310.921.6332

REAL ESTATEReal Estate West – Judy SaavedraInvest in the South Bay lifestyle–servicingSouth Bay buyers & sellers for over 20 years.905 Manhattan Beach Blvd., MB, 310.415.2551

Vintage Real Estate Group – Robb StroykeWelcome to your one-stop source for South Bay Beach Cities real estate services.920 MB Blvd., Suite 6, MB, 310.545.9595 x123, www.VintageRealEstateGroup.com

RETAIL PAINT & DECORATINGSupreme Paint Decorating CenterThe ultimate in paint & decorating products, window treatments, & personalized svc.1002 S. PCH, RB 310.540.4456

5 lines | Shop Local

RETAIL PHOTOGRAPHY & DÉCORJohn Post Gallery/PhotographyPrints, posters, hand-colored infrareds, & limited edition panorama photos by John Post809 Manhattan Ave., MB 310.376.6982www.johnpost.com

SKI & SNOWBOARDH&H JobbingThe South Bay’s only ski and snowboard outlet store. 40-70% off retail prices.2772 W. Artesia Blvd., RBwww.hhjobbing.com, 310.793.9150

SURF & SKATESoul PerformanceSurfboards, kiteboards, skateboardsCustom shaping & expert ding repair2215 1/2 Artesia Blvd., RBwww.soulperformance.com, 310.370.1428

TRAVELBeach TravelYour personal friend in the travel business.We are THE South Pacific Specialists.215A Pier Ave., HBwww.beachtvl.com, 310.376.8956

WEB DEVELOPMENTCloud9 InteractiveCustom built websites. Expert searchengine marketing and optimization.www.cloud9i.com, 614.795.7373

WRITER & COPORATE TRAINERDebra Anne Davis Communication ConsultantI can help you communicate your messageclearly, accurately, and eloquently.www.debraannedavis.com, 310.490.9280

Get your business listed in the next issue of trekker magazine.Snail mail $25 (cash or check payable to trekker press llc) with the following

information:1 . Your name & email address (for our records only)

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4. Your ad slogan (a maximum of 80 characters)5. Your business contact info (a maximum of 75 characters)

Or email us at 5lines@trekkermagazine.com & mail payment to:Trekker press LLC, PO BOX 7000-137, Redondo Beach, CA 90277

All ad submissions are final and there is no proofing process for 5 lines ads. If you have any questions please feel free to contact us.

Advertising inTREKKER MAGAZINE

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Contact us for your media kit today. rocco@trekkermagazine.com / 310-373-5116

W/07 • TREKKER MAGAZINE • 25

As I walk, the sand under my feet changes from hot and yellow to wet and gray. This wet sand is hard and smooth; it doesn’t give under my feet like the dry sand up on the beach did. I hold my hand up to my

forehead in a salute, to shield my eyes from the sun. I squint out at the ocean; it’s blue-green, with flecks of gold where the sun hits small waves in the swells. I attempt to summon back the bubble of warmth I felt around me a minute ago, as I lay on my towel on the warm sand, under the hot sun. But now I feel the cool breeze, the hard sand. I take another step. A wave crashes in front of me and then spreads around my feet, two inches deep of chilly water. I pause. I take three more steps, and the water is up to my knees. I feel the bumps pop up on my upper arms, the tops of my thighs. A slight shiver. I wait for the next wave, and when it comes, I search for the spot, under the white foam but above the flat green surface of the water, the space where the wave is most concave. I find it and dive. My hands enter the water first, then my head, my sunburnt shoulders, my covered breasts. The water rushes past me while, despite my jump and dive, I seem to remain suspended in the same place, hovering over a stationary stretch of submerged sand. The cold pierces me and spreads, chilling skin, muscle, bone. My head senses its way up. I wipe the salt water from my face. At eye level now, the ocean glints brighter, whiter, livelier. Further out, beyond where the waves are breaking, I see the swelling hills and valleys of water reflect the sun off of their moving surfaces. The water flashes in a random pattern, like a field of all-white Christmas tree lights. I swim out. I paddle until there’s a wave; then I dunk under it. When I dunk, my body feels the moving wall of water surround and then pass me; the top of my head feels the two feet of white foam skim across the surface above me. I hear the wet roaring; I feel the bubbles and sand churning against my skin. My feet reach for the sand bottom and then, just after the wave has passed over me (I can tell because the roar is now a whisper), I stand and push my head and neck up through the surface. I tread water, the tops of my feet pushing cool streaks through the water. Then my body feels the slight suck, the water pulling me gently out, and I ready myself for the coming wave. I turn around so I am facing the shore, but I keep my head twisted back to watch for the wave behind me. It starts out as a long triangular bump in the water, then forms itself into a curve, the power coming from inside and pushing the tip of the triangle up and over. When the half-formed wave is about three feet behind me (the timing is the trick), I quickly turn my head to face the shore and begin kicking and paddling as fast as I can. I catch the wave, or, rather, the wave catches me, just right. I am lifted slightly and then whooshed straight ahead, my belly sailing over the surface of the water, the rest of my body enveloped in the fast-moving balls of white foam that now form the top of the wave. The ocean pushes me from behind while the churning foam caresses me. I shoot straight towards the beach. My stomach muscles tense and relax. I stretch my hands straight out in front of me and smile into the green salt water. When the wave slows down enough to drop me a few inches, I pull out. I bend my knees and dunk my head. I twist around under the water, holding my breath, and press my feet down on the sand floor. I keep my eyes closed and push myself up, chin and chest first. I am now facing into the wave; the force of the moving water streams my wet hair back behind me and pushes the triangles of my bathing suit top outwards. When the wave is behind me, I shake my head to splash out the salt water and quickly look down to make sure my breasts aren’t exposed. I hook my thumbs into the folds of the lavender cloth and push the triangles together until they touch. I lift my head and see the ocean, dynamic and languid—regal—in front of me. I crouch down, lean forward, and let my body rest for a moment just below the surface of the water. I point my hands out in front of me, the fingers of my right hand resting lightly on the fingers of my left. I dig my toes into the sand, center my weight on the balls of my feet, tense my calf and thigh muscles. I push my body ahead and glide back out—to another solitary, sensual, socially-acceptable thrill. I am a warrior, an exhibitionist, a good example. TM

Bodysurfingby Debra Anne Davis

creative writing selection

26 • TREKKER MAGAZINE • W/07 on th

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W/07 • TREKKER MAGAZINE • 27

snow-blow

n Sierras photo by dameon guess

Christopher Bruno DC I.T.R.

403 N. Pacific Coast HighwaySuite 201Redondo Beach, CA 90277 For an appointment please call (310)798-8777

at The Premiere Clinic

Life outside favors the preparedwww.adventurechiropractic.com

28 • TREKKER MAGAZINE • W/07

all kinds of gear for the new season

the South Bay’s

only ski &snowboardoutlet store

40-70%OFF

retail prices

H&H Jobbing

West LA10867 W. Pico Blvd.

310.475.5701

Redondo Beach2772 Artesia Blvd.

310.793.9150