Sherry & Flor · Sherry & Flor The uniqueness of ... 11º to 12,5º ... the “flor”. flor clean...

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Biological Ageing Unlocking Sherrys Secret Big Fortified Tasting. London, April 22 nd , 2016 Sherry & Flor The uniqueness of biological ageing

Transcript of Sherry & Flor · Sherry & Flor The uniqueness of ... 11º to 12,5º ... the “flor”. flor clean...

Page 1: Sherry & Flor · Sherry & Flor The uniqueness of ... 11º to 12,5º ... the “flor”. flor clean wine lees . Biological Ageing Flor – the key to Sherry wines Film of natural ...

Biological Ageing Unlocking Sherry’s Secret Big Fortified Tasting. London, April 22nd, 2016

Sherry & Flor The uniqueness of biological ageing

Page 2: Sherry & Flor · Sherry & Flor The uniqueness of ... 11º to 12,5º ... the “flor”. flor clean wine lees . Biological Ageing Flor – the key to Sherry wines Film of natural ...

Biological Ageing

tradition nature technology

Producing Sherry involves...

…and a succesion of decisions

Page 3: Sherry & Flor · Sherry & Flor The uniqueness of ... 11º to 12,5º ... the “flor”. flor clean wine lees . Biological Ageing Flor – the key to Sherry wines Film of natural ...

Biological Ageing

VENDIMIA FERMENT

ALCOHOL CRIANZA

CABECEO BOTELLA

Harvest Grape variety Fresh / over ripe Must extraction

Fermentation Complete Partial

Fortification 15% vol. 17% vol.

Ageing Biological Traditional (oxid.)

Bottling From grapes into Sherry Blending (Optional)

Page 4: Sherry & Flor · Sherry & Flor The uniqueness of ... 11º to 12,5º ... the “flor”. flor clean wine lees . Biological Ageing Flor – the key to Sherry wines Film of natural ...

Biological Ageing

Southern-most Wine Region in Continental Europe

Page 5: Sherry & Flor · Sherry & Flor The uniqueness of ... 11º to 12,5º ... the “flor”. flor clean wine lees . Biological Ageing Flor – the key to Sherry wines Film of natural ...

Biological Ageing

Southern-most Wine Region in Continental Europe

Jerez de la Frontera

El Puerto de Santa María

Sanlúcar de Barrameda

Page 6: Sherry & Flor · Sherry & Flor The uniqueness of ... 11º to 12,5º ... the “flor”. flor clean wine lees . Biological Ageing Flor – the key to Sherry wines Film of natural ...

Biological Ageing

The albariza soil White chalky soil, rich in calcium carbonate and

with a great capacity to retain humidity

Page 7: Sherry & Flor · Sherry & Flor The uniqueness of ... 11º to 12,5º ... the “flor”. flor clean wine lees . Biological Ageing Flor – the key to Sherry wines Film of natural ...

Biological Ageing

Authorized grape varieties

moscatel palomino pedro

ximénez

Page 8: Sherry & Flor · Sherry & Flor The uniqueness of ... 11º to 12,5º ... the “flor”. flor clean wine lees . Biological Ageing Flor – the key to Sherry wines Film of natural ...

Biological Ageing

Palomino (Listán)

Page 9: Sherry & Flor · Sherry & Flor The uniqueness of ... 11º to 12,5º ... the “flor”. flor clean wine lees . Biological Ageing Flor – the key to Sherry wines Film of natural ...

Biological Ageing

1st yema

2nd yema

prensas (*)

(*) distillation

Classification of the musts

Page 10: Sherry & Flor · Sherry & Flor The uniqueness of ... 11º to 12,5º ... the “flor”. flor clean wine lees . Biological Ageing Flor – the key to Sherry wines Film of natural ...

Biological Ageing

The base wine End of November - “deslío”.

Dry white wine.

11º to 12,5º alcohol.

Spontaneous development of

the “flor”.

flor

clean wine

lees

Page 11: Sherry & Flor · Sherry & Flor The uniqueness of ... 11º to 12,5º ... the “flor”. flor clean wine lees . Biological Ageing Flor – the key to Sherry wines Film of natural ...

Biological Ageing

Flor – the key to Sherry wines

Film of natural (local) yeasts – different strains of saccharomyces.

Continuous interation with the wine:

Protects the wine from oxidation.

- consumption of alcohol, dissolved oxygen, remaining sugars, glycerine, acetic acid...

- production of acetaldehydes,

carbon dioxide...

Page 12: Sherry & Flor · Sherry & Flor The uniqueness of ... 11º to 12,5º ... the “flor”. flor clean wine lees . Biological Ageing Flor – the key to Sherry wines Film of natural ...

Biological Ageing

Page 13: Sherry & Flor · Sherry & Flor The uniqueness of ... 11º to 12,5º ... the “flor”. flor clean wine lees . Biological Ageing Flor – the key to Sherry wines Film of natural ...

Biological Ageing

Page 14: Sherry & Flor · Sherry & Flor The uniqueness of ... 11º to 12,5º ... the “flor”. flor clean wine lees . Biological Ageing Flor – the key to Sherry wines Film of natural ...

Biological Ageing

What do we know about the flor?

0

2

4

6

Evolution of glycerine (gr./lt.)

Continuous activity on the wine

0

2

4

6

Consumption of alcohol (lt./year/bota)

8

Note: figures corresponding to a specific case in a bodega in Jerez, monitored by the University of Cádiz.

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Biological Ageing

sacharomices cheresiensis 6%

sacharomices rouxii 1%

sacharomices montuliensis 17%

sacharomices beticus 76%

0

10

20

30

Formation time (days)

SB SC SM SR

Composition differs,

depending on environmental

conditions

What do we know about the flor?

Page 16: Sherry & Flor · Sherry & Flor The uniqueness of ... 11º to 12,5º ... the “flor”. flor clean wine lees . Biological Ageing Flor – the key to Sherry wines Film of natural ...

Biological Ageing

saccharomyces cheresiensis

saccharomyces rouxii

saccharomyces montuliensis

saccharomyces beticus

valor en el momento 0

Evolution of key wine elements in a 12-month

period

100

200

300

400

Acetaldehydes (mg./ litre)

100

200

300

Acetic Acid (mg./ litre)

20

40

60

80

Colour (absorbancy)

What do we know about the flor?

Page 17: Sherry & Flor · Sherry & Flor The uniqueness of ... 11º to 12,5º ... the “flor”. flor clean wine lees . Biological Ageing Flor – the key to Sherry wines Film of natural ...

Biological Ageing

Fortification

First classification (january)

pale and light wines:

fino/manzanilla

/

heavier, darker wines: oloroso O

Fortification (“encabezado”) – addition of pure grape spirit

Objetive: increase the wine´s alcoholic strength

fino is fortified up to 15º / O oloroso is fortified up to 17º

Page 18: Sherry & Flor · Sherry & Flor The uniqueness of ... 11º to 12,5º ... the “flor”. flor clean wine lees . Biological Ageing Flor – the key to Sherry wines Film of natural ...

Biological Ageing

biological ageing

the flor protects the wine

from oxidation

at 15º alc.

the wine keeps the flor

The different levels of alcohol determines

the future ageing of sherry inside the casks

oxidative ageing

without the flor, the wine is

exposed to oxidation

at 17º alc.

the wine loses the flor

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Biological Ageing

temperature (approx. 20ºC)

humidity (> 65%)

continuous aeration...

alcoholic content (<16º)

Flor yeasts require precise living conditions:

Flor – live inside the barrel

Page 20: Sherry & Flor · Sherry & Flor The uniqueness of ... 11º to 12,5º ... the “flor”. flor clean wine lees . Biological Ageing Flor – the key to Sherry wines Film of natural ...

Biological Ageing

Page 21: Sherry & Flor · Sherry & Flor The uniqueness of ... 11º to 12,5º ... the “flor”. flor clean wine lees . Biological Ageing Flor – the key to Sherry wines Film of natural ...

Biological Ageing

The cathedral-like bodegas Different styles and

dimensions.

Common elements: high ceilings, windows to capture poniente winds, albero floors...

Stable microclimatic conditions.

Page 22: Sherry & Flor · Sherry & Flor The uniqueness of ... 11º to 12,5º ... the “flor”. flor clean wine lees . Biological Ageing Flor – the key to Sherry wines Film of natural ...

Biological Ageing

Page 23: Sherry & Flor · Sherry & Flor The uniqueness of ... 11º to 12,5º ... the “flor”. flor clean wine lees . Biological Ageing Flor – the key to Sherry wines Film of natural ...

Biological Ageing

solera

1st criadera

2nd criadera

a n

d a

n a

“saca”

Sobretabla

“rocío”

How does the solera work?

Page 24: Sherry & Flor · Sherry & Flor The uniqueness of ... 11º to 12,5º ... the “flor”. flor clean wine lees . Biological Ageing Flor – the key to Sherry wines Film of natural ...

Biological Ageing

How does the solera work?

Page 25: Sherry & Flor · Sherry & Flor The uniqueness of ... 11º to 12,5º ... the “flor”. flor clean wine lees . Biological Ageing Flor – the key to Sherry wines Film of natural ...

Biological Ageing

How does the solera work?

Page 26: Sherry & Flor · Sherry & Flor The uniqueness of ... 11º to 12,5º ... the “flor”. flor clean wine lees . Biological Ageing Flor – the key to Sherry wines Film of natural ...

Biological Ageing

How does the solera work?

Page 27: Sherry & Flor · Sherry & Flor The uniqueness of ... 11º to 12,5º ... the “flor”. flor clean wine lees . Biological Ageing Flor – the key to Sherry wines Film of natural ...

Biological Ageing

Evolution of analytical parameters in biological ageing

Page 28: Sherry & Flor · Sherry & Flor The uniqueness of ... 11º to 12,5º ... the “flor”. flor clean wine lees . Biological Ageing Flor – the key to Sherry wines Film of natural ...

Biological Ageing

1. Fino La Ina. Lustau.

2. Manzanilla La Gitana. Bodegas Hidalgo – La

Gitana.

3. Fino Harveys.

4. Manzanilla Solear. Barbadillo.

5. Tío Pepe en Rama. González Byass.

6. Manzanilla La Goya. Delgado Zuleta.

7. Fino Perdido. Sánchez Romate.

8. La Guita en Rama. Rainiera Pérez Marín.

9. Fino Antique. Bodegas rey Fernando de Castilla.

The tasting

Page 29: Sherry & Flor · Sherry & Flor The uniqueness of ... 11º to 12,5º ... the “flor”. flor clean wine lees . Biological Ageing Flor – the key to Sherry wines Film of natural ...

Biological Ageing Sherry & Flor The uniqueness of biological ageing

Page 30: Sherry & Flor · Sherry & Flor The uniqueness of ... 11º to 12,5º ... the “flor”. flor clean wine lees . Biological Ageing Flor – the key to Sherry wines Film of natural ...

Biological Ageing Sherry & Flor The uniqueness of biological ageing

Page 31: Sherry & Flor · Sherry & Flor The uniqueness of ... 11º to 12,5º ... the “flor”. flor clean wine lees . Biological Ageing Flor – the key to Sherry wines Film of natural ...

Biological Ageing

Amontilldo

Palo Cortado

17%

Production scheme for dry sherries

Fino Manzanilla

Oloroso

Crianza (ageing)

palomino

Complete fermentation

flor

fortification

Vinification

15%

17%

Sobretabla

//

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/O/O

AoAo