~Servicing and Winterizing a Comet Service Manual/Servicing and Winterizing a...¢ ...

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Transcript of ~Servicing and Winterizing a Comet Service Manual/Servicing and Winterizing a...¢ ...

  • Please note: This document is both a how-to for certain basic maintenance tasks plus an outline of tasks for winterizing a Comet 250. It was compiled from many sources by a Comet owner who is not a professional mechanic. It may not be 100% accurate and may not relate to your exact set-up (for example, your Comet may be equipped with a vacuum-operated fuel valve and not a gravity-fed fuel valve as described below), but was created to be a helpful guide or starting point. Its also not meant as a promotion for certain products. There are other options for winterizing a bike than those listed here, like draining the gas tank and coating the inside with oil so do some additional research to find the right procedure for you, and read the Comet Owners and Service Manuals. Also, the tips and suggestions mentioned in this guide should not override any instructions on the products you decide to use.

    Servicing and Winterizing a Comet 250 General storing tips: When storing a bike for less than a month in mild temperatures that dont go below freezing, you do not need to do anything unless you have some electronics (like an alarm) that constantly pull from the battery. In that case, charge the battery or disconnect the electronics. For slightly longer storage, disconnect the negative battery terminal. In mild to cold temperatures, gasoline can be stored unstabilized for two to three months, but draining the float bowls is always a good idea when storing a bike for a long period. When not riding a bike for a week or more in very hot temperatures, getting a fuel stabilizer into the system might be a good idea as gasoline may go bad faster in hotter temperatures.

    Safety Materials

    • Long-sleeved shirt or sweater • Several rubber gloves • Safety goggles • Fire extinguisher • Squirt bottle filled with water • Metal/glass container with cover and water to hold oily/lubricated rags

    General Materials

    • Space heater (if winterizing in an unheated garage) • Swing-arm stand (or something similar to hold the bike upright) • Motorcycle tool box, plus torque wrenches, needle nose pliers, grip pliers, and screwdrivers • Ruler (to measure chain slack) and tape measure (to measure rear axle alignment) • Air compressor (for pumping up tires) • Tire pressure gauge • Rags and paper towels • Cans of fogging oil, compressed air, brake cleaner and WD-40 • Bottle of brake fluid (DOT 3 or 4) • Bubble wrap and bag (for storing windshield) • Two plastic bags with no holes and rubber bands (for covering air in-take and muffler) • Mothballs (for animal prevention in storage location)

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    Washing

    • Scrubber, sponge, soft cloths, bucket, hose, car soap, and car wax • Towel (if not riding the bike to dry it) and rags (for waxing) • Vinyl and rubber protectant (use a non-silicone / non-petroleum based protectant on vinyl seats) • Chain cleaner, chain lubricant and lever grease • Soft tooth brush (if the chain is really dirty) • Scrubbing pad (to get rust spots off the chain in the spring)

    Fuel Tank and Engine

    • Five-gallon gas container and long funnel (should reach from fuel valve to gas container) • Fuel line plug (round pencil) • Bottle of Sta-Bil (or similar fuel stabilizer) • Anti-seize compound • Metal, glass or plastic container (to catch the float bowl gas) • New spark plugs and new air filter (if they need replacing)

    Oil Change

    • Container/pan to drain the old oil into • Larger collection pan and newspaper (for catching any stray oil, especially from oil filter cavity) • Short funnel (for pouring new oil) • 1500ml (2 quarts) of motor oil (non-synthetic, non-energy conserving oil recommended) • New oil filter • New drain plug gasket and new o-rings (in case the old ones need replacing)

    Battery

    • Wire brush and backing soda mixed in warm water (for cleaning the battery, if needed) • Dielectric grease (when putting the battery back in the spring, if needed)

    THE WINTERIZING PROCEDURE

    1Choose a Good Long-term Storage Location

    The location should be flat and dry. If possible, keep the bike indoors away from extreme temperatures. Do not store it where chemical fumes, electric motors or heaters (ozone-producers) can dry out and attack the bikes rubber parts

    • If winterizing outdoors, choose a dry day you do not want rain to get in the way of the oil change, air filter cleaning, etc. Have a fire extinguisher on hand when working on the oil or fuel systems and wear safety goggles

  • 3 2Check Brake Fluid

    • Thoroughly clean off the brake fluid reservoirs and top off the fluid if necessary

    • Do not let any fluid get onto the bikes paint

    • Remember to change out the brake fluid every two years

    3Wash, Dry, Wax and Lubricate the Bike

    • Remove the front fender and wash and wax it as a separate item

    • Empty the trunk and then wet the bike with a low-pressure rinse, keeping water off the carburetors (and air filter) and out of the muffler maybe cover the open end of the muffler with a plastic bag and rubber band

    • With a soapy rag, wipe down as thoroughly as you can the greasy areas, and any areas covered in brake dust (wheels, fender, undercarriage, calipers, etc.)

    Some people use a degreaser such as Simple Green for this, but others warn that such products promote corrosion

    • With car soap and water, clean the entire bike with a soft sponge. Re-clean the spots mentioned in the previous step last. Rinse the soap off

    • Dry the bike off, especially around the seats and the entire frame and welds

    • Wipe all chrome areas with glass cleaner

    Make sure there are no fingerprints on the exhaust or any other chrome areas that get hot

    • Before waxing the painted parts, take off the seats so you dont get wax on them. Now wax the painted parts

    • Wipe a non-silicone based protectant on rubber and vinyl parts (but not the tires!), including the seats. Put the seats back on

    • Lubricate all necessary points and put trunk items back in

    • If not winterizing, go for a ride to dry off any remaining water and to warm up the drive chain. Now clean and lubricate the chain

    The chain should be lubricated every 1000km, when the chain looks dry or dirty, or after being out in a heavy rain. First, place newspaper or a piece of cardboard in between the rear tire and the chain you do not want chain cleaner or lubricant on the tire. Hold a rag under the chain when spraying chain cleaner onto it in order to catch the sludge. If the chain is really dirty, use a soft toothbrush too.

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  • 4 4Take the Bike for One Last Ride and Fill Up

    • Ride around for at least 20 minutes to get the engine hot and burn off any remaining water from the wash. Try to have the tank at least half empty (this to help with mixing the Sta-Bil)

    • Go to a gas station and add the correct amount of Sta-Bil to the tank first before completely filling the tank with gasoline. Ride around for several minutes to work the stabilized gas through the entire fuel system

    5Windshield, Trunk Items and Muffler

    • At the storage location set the fuel valve and ignition to off, and place the bike on the swingarm stand. Take off the windshield (if you have one), clean it, and pack it away tighten the headlamp screws

    • Wipe away any grime picked up from the ride. Take trunk items out and store them separately

    • Spray some WD-40 into the muffler, preferably when it is still warm (hold the spray nozzle so it doesnt shoot into the muffler by accident)

    6Clean and Lube Drive Chain

    • Clean and thoroughly lube both sides of the chain (see notes above in Wash section), as lubrication helps prevent surface rust from developing over the winter

    • See if the chain is in good condition or if it will need replacing in the spring. Look for loose pins, excessive wear, damaged rollers, dry or rusted links, kinked or binding links. Count out 20 pins and measure the distance. If it exceeds 319.4 mm the chain must be replaced. Or, if you can pull the chain off more than half a rear sprocket tooth, the chain needs replacing

    7Remove the Battery

    • Remove the front seat and clear dust and dirt off the battery area with compressed air

    • Make sure your ignition is set to off. Move the CDI unit (above the battery) out of the way

    • Disassemble the negative battery wire first. Disassemble the positive battery wire second • Remove the battery and clean the terminals with a wire brush if needed

    • Clean the battery box and the battery with a baking soda/warm water mixture if necessary, and dry thoroughly. Store the battery separately in-doors on a float charger

    • Put the CDI unit back in place

  • 5 8Change the Oil and the Oil Filter

    The manual says to wait until the exhaust pipes and oil drain plug are cool enough to touch with bare hands before draining the oil. It also says to clean the air filter with each oil change

    • Wear long sleeves and rubber gloves used oil is toxic

    • Remove the engine oil filler cap (1)

    • Drain the old oil into a pan by removing the drain plug (2) (21mm). Oil will continue to drip out for quite a while leave the pan in place

    • Remove the three nuts (3) (10mm) holding the filter cap (6) in place. Oil will flow out from the filter ca