Servicing and Winterizing a Comet 250

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Transcript of Servicing and Winterizing a Comet 250

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    Please note: This document is both a how-to for certain basic maintenance tasks plus an outline of tasks forwinterizing a Comet 250. It was compiled from many sources by a Comet owner who is not a professionalmechanic. It may not be 100% accurate and may not relate to your exact set-up (for example, your Comet maybe equipped with a vacuum-operated fuel valve and not a gravity-fed fuel valve as described below), but wascreated to be a helpful guide or starting point. Its also not meant as a promotion for certain products. There areother options for winterizing a bike than those listed here, like draining the gas tank and coating the inside withoil so do some additional research to find the right procedure for you, and read the Comet Owners andService Manuals. Also, the tips and suggestions mentioned in this guide should not override any instructions onthe products you decide to use.

    Servicing and Winterizing a Comet 250

    General storing tips: When storing a bike for less than a month in mild temperatures that dont gobelow freezing, you do not need to do anything unless you have some electronics (like an alarm) thatconstantly pull from the battery. In that case, charge the battery or disconnect the electronics. Forslightly longer storage, disconnect the negative battery terminal. In mild to cold temperatures, gasolinecan be stored unstabilized for two to three months, but draining the float bowls is always a good ideawhen storing a bike for a long period. When not riding a bike for a week or more in very hottemperatures, getting a fuel stabilizer into the system might be a good idea as gasoline may go badfaster in hotter temperatures.

    Safety Materials

    Long-sleeved shirt or sweater

    Several rubber gloves

    Safety goggles

    Fire extinguisher

    Squirt bottle filled with water

    Metal/glass container with cover and water to hold oily/lubricated rags

    General Materials

    Space heater (if winterizing in an unheated garage) Swing-arm stand (or something similar to hold the bike upright)

    Motorcycle tool box, plus torque wrenches, needle nose pliers, grip pliers, and screwdrivers

    Ruler (to measure chain slack) and tape measure (to measure rear axle alignment)

    Air compressor (for pumping up tires)

    Tire pressure gauge

    Rags and paper towels

    Cans of fogging oil, compressed air, brake cleaner and WD-40

    Bottle of brake fluid (DOT 3 or 4)

    Bubble wrap and bag (for storing windshield)

    Two plastic bags with no holes and rubber bands (for covering air in-take and muffler)

    Mothballs (for animal prevention in storage location)

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    Washing

    Scrubber, sponge, soft cloths, bucket, hose, car soap, and car wax

    Towel (if not riding the bike to dry it) and rags (for waxing)

    Vinyl and rubber protectant (use a non-silicone / non-petroleum based protectant on vinyl seats)

    Chain cleaner, chain lubricant and lever grease

    Soft tooth brush (if the chain is really dirty)

    Scrubbing pad (to get rust spots off the chain in the spring)

    Fuel Tank and Engine

    Five-gallon gas container and long funnel (should reach from fuel valve to gas container)

    Fuel line plug (round pencil)

    Bottle of Sta-Bil (or similar fuel stabilizer)

    Anti-seize compound

    Metal, glass or plastic container (to catch the float bowl gas)

    New spark plugs and new air filter (if they need replacing)

    Oil Change

    Container/pan to drain the old oil into

    Larger collection pan and newspaper (for catching any stray oil, especially from oil filter cavity)

    Short funnel (for pouring new oil)

    1500ml (2 quarts) of motoroil (non-synthetic, non-energy conserving oil recommended)

    New oil filter

    New drain plug gasket and new o-rings (in case the old ones need replacing)

    Battery

    Wire brush and backing soda mixed in warm water (for cleaning the battery, if needed)

    Dielectric grease (when putting the battery back in the spring, if needed)

    THE WINTERIZING PROCEDURE

    1Choose a Good Long-term Storage Location

    The location should be flat and dry. If possible, keep the bike indoors away from extreme

    temperatures. Do not store it where chemical fumes, electric motors or heaters (ozone-producers) can

    dry out and attack the bikes rubber parts

    If winterizing outdoors, choose a dry day you do not want rain to get in the way of the oil

    change, air filter cleaning, etc. Have a fire extinguisher on hand when working on the oil or fuel

    systems and wear safety goggles

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    2Check Brake Fluid

    Thoroughly clean off the brake fluid reservoirs and top off the fluid if necessary

    Do not let any fluid get onto the bikes paint

    Remember to change out the brake fluid every two years

    3Wash, Dry, Wax and Lubricate the Bike

    Remove the front fender and wash and wax it as a separate item

    Empty the trunk and then wet the bike with a low-pressure rinse, keeping water off the

    carburetors (and air filter) and out of the muffler maybe cover the open end of the muffler with

    a plastic bag and rubber band

    With a soapy rag, wipe down as thoroughly as you can the greasy areas, and any areas

    covered in brake dust (wheels, fender, undercarriage, calipers, etc.)

    Some people use a degreaser such as Simple

    Green for this, but others warn that such products

    promote corrosion

    With car soap and water, clean the entire bike with a

    soft sponge. Re-clean the spots mentioned in the

    previous step last. Rinse the soap off

    Dry the bike off, especially around the seats and the

    entire frame and welds

    Wipe all chrome areas with glass cleaner

    Make sure there are no fingerprints on the

    exhaust or any other chrome areas that get hot

    Before waxing the painted parts, take off the seats so

    you dont get wax on them. Now wax the painted parts

    Wipe a non-silicone based protectant on rubber

    and vinyl parts (but not the tires!), including the

    seats. Put the seats back on

    Lubricate all necessary points and put trunk items

    back in

    If not winterizing, go for a ride to dry off any remaining

    water and to warm up the drive chain. Now clean and

    lubricate the chain

    The chain should be lubricated every 1000km, when the chain looks dry or dirty, or after

    being out in a heavy rain. First, place newspaper or a piece of cardboard in between the

    rear tire and the chain you do not want chain cleaner or lubricant on the tire. Hold a rag

    under the chain when spraying chain cleaner onto it in order to catch the sludge. If the chain

    is really dirty, use a soft toothbrush too.

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    4Take the Bike for One Last Ride and Fill Up

    Ride around for at least 20 minutes to get the engine hot and burn off any remaining water from

    the wash. Try to have the tank at least half empty (this to help with mixing the Sta-Bil)

    Go to a gas station and add the correct amount of Sta-Bil to the tank first before completely

    filling the tank with gasoline. Ride around for several minutes to work the stabilized gas through

    the entire fuel system

    5Windshield, Trunk Items and Muffler

    At the storage location set the fuel valve and ignition to off, and place the bike on the

    swingarm stand. Take off the windshield (if you have one), clean it, and pack it away tighten

    the headlamp screws

    Wipe away any grime picked up from the ride. Take trunk items out and store them separately

    Spray some WD-40 into the muffler, preferably when it is still warm (hold the spray nozzle so it

    doesnt shoot into the muffler by accident)

    6Clean and Lube Drive Chain

    Clean and thoroughly lube both sides of the chain (see notes above in Wash section), as

    lubrication helps prevent surface rust from developing over the winter

    See if the chain is in good condition or if it will need replacing in the spring. Look for loose pins,

    excessive wear, damaged rollers, dry or rusted links, kinked or binding links. Count out 20 pins

    and measure the distance. If it exceeds 319.4 mm the chain must be replaced. Or, if you can

    pull the chain off more than half a rear sprocket tooth, the chain needs replacing

    7Remove the Battery

    Remove the front seat and clear dust and dirt off the battery area with compressed air

    Make sure your ignition is set to off. Move the CDI unit (above the battery) out of the way

    Disassemble the negative battery wire first. Disassemble the positive battery wire second

    Remove the battery and clean the terminals with a wire brush if needed

    Clean the battery box and the battery with a baking soda/warm water mixture if necessary,

    and dry thoroughly. Store the battery separately in-doors on a float charger

    Put the CDI unit back in place

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    8Change the Oil and the Oil Filter

    The manual says to wait until the exhaust pipes and oil drain plug are

    cool enough to touch with bare hands before draining the oil. It also

    says to clean the air filter with each oil change

    Wear long sleeves and rubber gloves used oil is toxic

    Remove the engine oil filler cap (1)

    Drain the old oil into a pan by removing the drain plug (2)

    (21mm). Oil will continue to drip out for quite a while