Servicing and Winterizing a Comet 250

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    Please note: This document is both a how-to for certain basic maintenance tasks plus an outline of tasks forwinterizing a Comet 250. It was compiled from many sources by a Comet owner who is not a professionalmechanic. It may not be 100% accurate and may not relate to your exact set-up (for example, your Comet maybe equipped with a vacuum-operated fuel valve and not a gravity-fed fuel valve as described below), but wascreated to be a helpful guide or starting point. Its also not meant as a promotion for certain products. There areother options for winterizing a bike than those listed here, like draining the gas tank and coating the inside withoil so do some additional research to find the right procedure for you, and read the Comet Owners andService Manuals. Also, the tips and suggestions mentioned in this guide should not override any instructions onthe products you decide to use.

    Servicing and Winterizing a Comet 250

    General storing tips: When storing a bike for less than a month in mild temperatures that dont gobelow freezing, you do not need to do anything unless you have some electronics (like an alarm) thatconstantly pull from the battery. In that case, charge the battery or disconnect the electronics. Forslightly longer storage, disconnect the negative battery terminal. In mild to cold temperatures, gasolinecan be stored unstabilized for two to three months, but draining the float bowls is always a good ideawhen storing a bike for a long period. When not riding a bike for a week or more in very hottemperatures, getting a fuel stabilizer into the system might be a good idea as gasoline may go badfaster in hotter temperatures.

    Safety Materials

    Long-sleeved shirt or sweater

    Several rubber gloves

    Safety goggles

    Fire extinguisher

    Squirt bottle filled with water

    Metal/glass container with cover and water to hold oily/lubricated rags

    General Materials

    Space heater (if winterizing in an unheated garage) Swing-arm stand (or something similar to hold the bike upright)

    Motorcycle tool box, plus torque wrenches, needle nose pliers, grip pliers, and screwdrivers

    Ruler (to measure chain slack) and tape measure (to measure rear axle alignment)

    Air compressor (for pumping up tires)

    Tire pressure gauge

    Rags and paper towels

    Cans of fogging oil, compressed air, brake cleaner and WD-40

    Bottle of brake fluid (DOT 3 or 4)

    Bubble wrap and bag (for storing windshield)

    Two plastic bags with no holes and rubber bands (for covering air in-take and muffler)

    Mothballs (for animal prevention in storage location)

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    Washing

    Scrubber, sponge, soft cloths, bucket, hose, car soap, and car wax

    Towel (if not riding the bike to dry it) and rags (for waxing)

    Vinyl and rubber protectant (use a non-silicone / non-petroleum based protectant on vinyl seats)

    Chain cleaner, chain lubricant and lever grease

    Soft tooth brush (if the chain is really dirty)

    Scrubbing pad (to get rust spots off the chain in the spring)

    Fuel Tank and Engine

    Five-gallon gas container and long funnel (should reach from fuel valve to gas container)

    Fuel line plug (round pencil)

    Bottle of Sta-Bil (or similar fuel stabilizer)

    Anti-seize compound

    Metal, glass or plastic container (to catch the float bowl gas)

    New spark plugs and new air filter (if they need replacing)

    Oil Change

    Container/pan to drain the old oil into

    Larger collection pan and newspaper (for catching any stray oil, especially from oil filter cavity)

    Short funnel (for pouring new oil)

    1500ml (2 quarts) of motoroil (non-synthetic, non-energy conserving oil recommended)

    New oil filter

    New drain plug gasket and new o-rings (in case the old ones need replacing)

    Battery

    Wire brush and backing soda mixed in warm water (for cleaning the battery, if needed)

    Dielectric grease (when putting the battery back in the spring, if needed)

    THE WINTERIZING PROCEDURE

    1Choose a Good Long-term Storage Location

    The location should be flat and dry. If possible, keep the bike indoors away from extreme

    temperatures. Do not store it where chemical fumes, electric motors or heaters (ozone-producers) can

    dry out and attack the bikes rubber parts

    If winterizing outdoors, choose a dry day you do not want rain to get in the way of the oil

    change, air filter cleaning, etc. Have a fire extinguisher on hand when working on the oil or fuel

    systems and wear safety goggles

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    2Check Brake Fluid

    Thoroughly clean off the brake fluid reservoirs and top off the fluid if necessary

    Do not let any fluid get onto the bikes paint

    Remember to change out the brake fluid every two years

    3Wash, Dry, Wax and Lubricate the Bike

    Remove the front fender and wash and wax it as a separate item

    Empty the trunk and then wet the bike with a low-pressure rinse, keeping water off the

    carburetors (and air filter) and out of the muffler maybe cover the open end of the muffler with

    a plastic bag and rubber band

    With a soapy rag, wipe down as thoroughly as you can the greasy areas, and any areas

    covered in brake dust (wheels, fender, undercarriage, calipers, etc.)

    Some people use a degreaser such as Simple

    Green for this, but others warn that such products

    promote corrosion

    With car soap and water, clean the entire bike with a

    soft sponge. Re-clean the spots mentioned in the

    previous step last. Rinse the soap off

    Dry the bike off, especially around the seats and the

    entire frame and welds

    Wipe all chrome areas with glass cleaner

    Make sure there are no fingerprints on the

    exhaust or any other chrome areas that get hot

    Before waxing the painted parts, take off the seats so

    you dont get wax on them. Now wax the painted parts

    Wipe a non-silicone based protectant on rubber

    and vinyl parts (but not the tires!), including the

    seats. Put the seats back on

    Lubricate all necessary points and put trunk items

    back in

    If not winterizing, go for a ride to dry off any remaining

    water and to warm up the drive chain. Now clean and

    lubricate the chain

    The chain should be lubricated every 1000km, when the chain looks dry or dirty, or after

    being out in a heavy rain. First, place newspaper or a piece of cardboard in between the

    rear tire and the chain you do not want chain cleaner or lubricant on the tire. Hold a rag

    under the chain when spraying chain cleaner onto it in order to catch the sludge. If the chain

    is really dirty, use a soft toothbrush too.

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    4Take the Bike for One Last Ride and Fill Up

    Ride around for at least 20 minutes to get the engine hot and burn off any remaining water from

    the wash. Try to have the tank at least half empty (this to help with mixing the Sta-Bil)

    Go to a gas station and add the correct amount of Sta-Bil to the tank first before completely

    filling the tank with gasoline. Ride around for several minutes to work the stabilized gas through

    the entire fuel system

    5Windshield, Trunk Items and Muffler

    At the storage location set the fuel valve and ignition to off, and place the bike on the

    swingarm stand. Take off the windshield (if you have one), clean it, and pack it away tighten

    the headlamp screws

    Wipe away any grime picked up from the ride. Take trunk items out and store them separately

    Spray some WD-40 into the muffler, preferably when it is still warm (hold the spray nozzle so it

    doesnt shoot into the muffler by accident)

    6Clean and Lube Drive Chain

    Clean and thoroughly lube both sides of the chain (see notes above in Wash section), as

    lubrication helps prevent surface rust from developing over the winter

    See if the chain is in good condition or if it will need replacing in the spring. Look for loose pins,

    excessive wear, damaged rollers, dry or rusted links, kinked or binding links. Count out 20 pins

    and measure the distance. If it exceeds 319.4 mm the chain must be replaced. Or, if you can

    pull the chain off more than half a rear sprocket tooth, the chain needs replacing

    7Remove the Battery

    Remove the front seat and clear dust and dirt off the battery area with compressed air

    Make sure your ignition is set to off. Move the CDI unit (above the battery) out of the way

    Disassemble the negative battery wire first. Disassemble the positive battery wire second

    Remove the battery and clean the terminals with a wire brush if needed

    Clean the battery box and the battery with a baking soda/warm water mixture if necessary,

    and dry thoroughly. Store the battery separately in-doors on a float charger

    Put the CDI unit back in place

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    8Change the Oil and the Oil Filter

    The manual says to wait until the exhaust pipes and oil drain plug are

    cool enough to touch with bare hands before draining the oil. It also

    says to clean the air filter with each oil change

    Wear long sleeves and rubber gloves used oil is toxic

    Remove the engine oil filler cap (1)

    Drain the old oil into a pan by removing the drain plug (2)

    (21mm). Oil will continue to drip out for quite a while leave the

    pan in place

    Remove the three nuts (3) (10mm) holding the filter cap (6) in

    place. Oil will flow out from the filter cavity, so place a collection

    pan beneath it. Do not lose the filter spring (4) and o-ring (5)

    Check the small o-ring at the back of the filter cavity (C) replace

    if necessary. Replace the old oil filter with a new one

    Check the condition of the filter cap o-ring (5). Manual says to

    use a new o-ring each time you replace the filter, but this is not

    really necessary just check its condition and have a spare.

    Apply a small amount of engine oil to the o-ring before installing

    Put the filter cap back on, making sure the filter

    spring and o-ring are still in place

    Oil filter cover nuts (10mm) torque: 7-11 Nm

    Clean the oil strainer (A) when changing the oil

    Replace the drain plug gasket (B) and put the drain

    plug back in

    Oil drain plug (21mm) torque: 18-20 Nm

    Pour the new oil through the filler hole (1). Do not

    over fill. Check the level. Keep it between the F and L

    1450ml of oil required for an oil change

    1500ml required when also changing the filter

    (1 qt = 950ml, so 1500ml = 1 qt + 550ml)

    Put the oil filter cap (1) back on

    Run the bike at idling speed for a few seconds to get the new

    oil through the system. Make sure there are no leaks at the

    filler cap, the filter cap, or the drain plug

    Stop the engine and wait a few minutes. If the engine oil level

    is low, add more oil until it is between the F and L preferably

    1mm under the F line

    B

    C

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    9Drain the Float Bowls and Drain / Remove the Fuel Tank

    Make sure the ignition and fuel valve are both set to off, and have a fire extinguisher on hand

    Lay down a towel to set the tank on once its removed

    Drain the float bowls

    Put a container under the carburetor drain hose, then

    unscrew one carburetor drain valve (A) at a time to draineach float bowl

    Pour this gas into the gas container

    Drain the tank (remember, gasoline is highly explosive)

    Put the gas container in place and have a long funnel

    ready to catch any gas that flows out of the

    disconnected fuel line or the fuel filter in the next step

    Disconnect at the fuel filter the fuel line that runs from the fuel valve to the fuel filter

    Turn the fuel valve to on and use that disconnected fuel line to direct the gas into the

    funnel and container

    After the on position runs dry, switch the valve to reserve and drain that gasoline too

    When the tank is empty, reset the fuel valve to off and plug the open end of the fuel line

    Wipe away any gas that got on the bike

    Unscrew the rear mounting bolt (12mm) holding down the fuel tank do not lose the two parts

    of the bolt assembly

    Disconnect the sender wires for the fuel gauge

    Disconnect the fuel valve from the frame (10mm bolt)

    Gently lift the back of the tank and pull back on it to remove it from the front rollers, making

    sure the fuel valve does not get caught in the other fuel lines

    Lift the tank assembly off and set it aside on the towel

    10Clean and Cover the Air Filter

    Remove the four screws (1). Pull up the cover and the air

    filter (2)

    Check the condition of the filter for tears, etc. Replace now

    or in the spring if necessary

    Gently shoot compressed air into the filter, making sure tonot tear the filter

    Reassemble, and cover the filter with a plastic bag secured

    with a rubber band (to prevent animal habitation)

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    2

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    11Check the Spark Plugs and Spray Fogging Oil into the Cylinders

    Do not get the spark plug wires mixed up. Service one spark plug and fog one cylinder at a time if

    necessary

    To access the front spark plug, the oil cooler must be moved. Unscrew both bolts at the top

    holding it in place and swing the cooler aside

    Remove all dirt from the cylinder head with a rag and compressedair, then pull out the plug cap

    Before removing the plug, blow out any dirt in the plug well with

    compressed air

    With the spark plug removed, spray a small amount of fogging oil

    into the cylinder

    Hold the spray nozzle so it doesnt shoot into the cylinder

    by accident

    Use a rag to block up the plug well opening

    If the spark plug needs servicing, clean and gap it, or replace Remove any carbon deposits with a wire or pin and adjust the

    spark plug gap to 0.7-0.8 mm, measuring with a thickness gauge

    Check to see if the electrodes are worn or burnt. If it is extremely worn or burnt, replace the

    plug. Also replace the plug if it has a broken insulator, damaged thread, etc.

    Apply a light coat of anti-seize to the plug threads. Reinstall the spark plug being careful not to

    cross-thread it. Hand-tighten using only the spark plug socket and extension, then torque it

    properly with a torque wrench

    Spark plug torque: 20-25 Nm

    Put the oil cooler back in place (mounting bolt torque not given in manual) Put on the plug cap and repeat this procedure with the rear cylinder and spark plug

    12Put the Fuel Tank and Front Seat Back On

    Make sure the two small rubber bumpers are still in place on the sides of the tank

    Carefully lay the tank assembly in place on the bike

    Reconnect the fuel gauge sender wires

    Lift the rear of the tank and gently push it back onto the front rollers

    It may be best to straddle the bike and hold it in place with your legs while you do this

    Reassemble and tighten the rear tank mounting bolt (12mm)

    Reconnect the fuel line from the fuel valve to the fuel filter

    Reconnect the fuel valve to the frame (10mm bolt)

    Refill the tank with the gas in the gas container

    Wipe the tank clean in case any gas got on it

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    13Protect the Bikes Exposed Metal and Aluminum

    Do not apply chemicals or lubricants to brake pads, brake rotors, fork tubes or tires. If you get

    chemicals on the brakes, clean them thoroughly with brake cleaner

    Spray or wipe WD-40 on the exposed metal, chrome and aluminum parts of the bike,

    particularly the underside and the welds

    14Cover the Muffler

    Cover the open end of the muffler with a plastic bag secured with rubber bands

    15Oil the Front Suspension

    Put some motor oil on your finger and spread it around the area where the fork tubes enter the

    fork sliders. Hold the front brake and work the front suspension

    16Final Steps

    Reset the Craftsman torque wrench to 25% or less of capacity if it was used

    Inflate both tires to about 5 psi higher than normal (34 front, 37 rear)

    Check the wear condition of all brake pads. Order more over the winter if needed

    Move the bike to its final storage location. Lift both tires off the ground if possible but if you

    cannot, its no big deal. Place a piece of wood or rubber under any tire not lifted off the ground

    so it is not touching any potentially damp surface, like concrete

    Take off the seats and store them indoors

    Lock the bike and cover the seat areas. Cover the entire bike only if there is good air circulationin the storage area this to prevent condensation buildup on the bike and tires

    Put some mothballs (whole and crushed) around the bike to repel animals

    What to do with those oil/lubricant soaked rags

    If keeping them: Dry out the rags by spreading them in a well-ventilated area, then wash by

    hand and let air dry. Store in a metal container sealed with a tight lid, preferably of metal too

    If disposing of them: Put them in a sealed glass or metal container filled with water

    Call insurance company and tell them the bike is in winter storage and will not be ridden for

    several months. Also let them know if the storage location has changed

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    Over the Winter

    Do not run the engine, as short runs will promote condensation inside the engine

    Regularly check the tires to make sure they are not going flat

    Work the levers and check lubrication points a few times

    Make sure nothing is leaking

    The float bowls will most likely refill with gas over time. Maybe re-drain them once over the winter

    Purchase new parts like brake pads, spark plugs, and air filter if necessary

    Charge the battery with a product like the 12V Battery Tender Junior

    Locate the charger as far away from the battery as is allowed by the length of the output

    cable harness. Do not set the charger above the battery

    Never set the charger on a surface constructed from combustible material, or on a surface

    that may get wet

    When leaving the battery to charge for extended periods of time (several weeks plus), check

    if the battery is unusually warm. If it is, disconnect and allow to cool Do not store the battery in the vicinity of sparks or an open flame (like a gas water heater or

    cigarette lighter)

    Do not operate the charger where ventilation is restricted

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    In the Spring

    1Call Insurance Company and Tell Them the Bike Is Coming out of Storage

    Do this at least one day before you take out the bike

    Also tell them if the storage location is changing

    2Lift Tank, Remove Bag Covering Air Box and Recheck Fuel Lines

    Lift the tank by first removing the fuel valve from the frame and

    allowing it to hang free, so when lifting the back of the tank the

    fuel lines are not popped off. Or drain the tank first if you feel

    this is safer

    Remove the bag covering the air box intake

    After the tank is back in place, make sure all fuel line

    connections and the fuel valve bolt are tight, and make surethe fuel gauge sender wires are connected properly

    3Reinstall the Battery and Put the Seats Back On

    Clean the terminals with a wire brush or compressed air

    Reassemble the positive terminal first

    Reassemble the negative terminal second

    Lube the terminals lightly with a dielectric grease if necessary

    4Drain the Float Bowls

    Drain them again to make sure no water condensation

    built up in them

    5Perform a Thorough Inspection

    Make sure all nuts, bolts and screws are tight, including:

    Exhaust pipe nuts (1) (12mm): 18-28 Nm

    Engine mounting bolts (2): 40-60 Nm

    Muffler mounting bolt (3) (14mm): 20-30 Nm

    Rear axle nut (23mm): 90-140 Nm

    Swing arm pivot nut: 45-70 Nm

    Gear shifter and linkage

    Check tire conditions and pressures

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    Check all fluid levels and brake pad conditions

    Make sure the gas cap vents are clear

    Make sure all fuel lines are in place and secure

    Check clutch cable condition

    The usual wear points for cables are at the ends, where they enter the sheath. To inspect

    the clutch cable at the lever end, squeeze the lever to pull the cable out of the sheath. Thatfirst bit inside the sheath is where the wear will most likely be

    6Change the Oil if Necessary

    Some say to change the oil if the bike was stored for more than two months. Others say if you

    changed the oil before storing the bike, you do not need to change it again, and whatever

    condensation built up in the engine will be boiled off once the engine is up to temperature

    If you will be changing the oil, running the engine until warm will thin the oil and make draining

    it easier. You do not need to change the filter if you replaced it when winterizing, but remove

    the oil from the filter area. Remember:

    1450ml of oil required for an oil change (if not changing the filter)

    1500ml required when also changing the filter (1 qt = 950ml, so 1500ml = 1 qt + 550ml)

    Before starting the engine:

    Make sure to take off any plastic bags covering the tail pipe and be sure youve removed the

    bag covering the air intake

    Turn the fuel valve to on and wait a few minutes to get fuel into the system. Open the

    throttle a few times. Remember: FINE-C

    It probably wont spring to life right away, and do not race the engine until the oil has had a

    chance to spread. Fogging oil in the cylinders might cause some smoke at first

    7Wash, Dry, Wax and Lubricate the Bike

    Thoroughly clean every part of the bike, especially if you sprayed a rust preventative on the

    exposed metal parts and put oil on the front suspension

    Clean and lubricate the chain. Use a scrubbing pad to brush off any rust spots that may have

    appeared over the winter

    8Clean, Inspect/Adjust, and then Lube Drive Chain

    Clean the chain (see notes above in Wash section)

    Make sure the chain is in good condition and properly adjusted. It should have 20-30 mm of

    slack. Look for loose pins, excessive wear, damaged rollers, dry or rusted links, kinked or

    binding links. Check that the chain is centered on the teeth of the rear sprocket

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    Count out 20 pins and measure the distance. If it exceeds 319.4

    mm the chain must be replaced. Or, if you can pull the chain off

    more than half a rear sprocket tooth, the chain needs replacing

    If readjustment is required:

    Loosen the rear wheel axle nut (23mm) (1)

    Loosen or tighten both chain adjusters (A and B) until thechain has 20-30 mm (0.79 to 1.18 inches) of slack in the

    middle between the front and rear sprockets. The marks (C

    and D)on both chain adjusters should be at the same

    position on the scale to ensure that the front and rear wheels

    are correctly aligned

    Check for slack using several points on the chain, as

    some can be tighter than others

    Dont trust the marks alone. Use a tape measure to

    measure the length from the swing arm pivot point to

    the center of the rear axle, on both sides of the bike

    Retighten the axle nut (while using a 22mm socket wrench to hold the rear axle nut on the

    other side of the bike) and inspect again for proper chain slack and alignment

    Rear axle nut (23mm) torque: 90-140 Nm

    Lube the chain (see notes above in Wash section)

    9Trunk Items and Registration Papers

    Put back on board all trunk items, and make sure the bikes registration paperwork is in its

    proper location (pocket of riding jacket recommended)

    10Run the Engine

    Run the engine for a few minutes (see notes in step 7) and then shut it down

    Make sure there are no leaks in either the fuel or oil systems

    Go for a ride to burn off the water from the wash and use up as much of the stabilized gas as

    possible. Maybe go to a parking lot to practice too. Fill up with new gas

    11Take Dated Photos of the Bike for Insurance Purposes

    12Set up Appointment for Yearly Inspection

    1

    A

    C

    BD