Servicing and Winterizing a Comet 250
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Transcript of Servicing and Winterizing a Comet 250
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Please note: This document is both a how-to for certain basic maintenance tasks plus an outline of tasks forwinterizing a Comet 250. It was compiled from many sources by a Comet owner who is not a professionalmechanic. It may not be 100% accurate and may not relate to your exact set-up (for example, your Comet maybe equipped with a vacuum-operated fuel valve and not a gravity-fed fuel valve as described below), but wascreated to be a helpful guide or starting point. Its also not meant as a promotion for certain products. There areother options for winterizing a bike than those listed here, like draining the gas tank and coating the inside withoil so do some additional research to find the right procedure for you, and read the Comet Owners andService Manuals. Also, the tips and suggestions mentioned in this guide should not override any instructions onthe products you decide to use.
Servicing and Winterizing a Comet 250
General storing tips: When storing a bike for less than a month in mild temperatures that dont gobelow freezing, you do not need to do anything unless you have some electronics (like an alarm) thatconstantly pull from the battery. In that case, charge the battery or disconnect the electronics. Forslightly longer storage, disconnect the negative battery terminal. In mild to cold temperatures, gasolinecan be stored unstabilized for two to three months, but draining the float bowls is always a good ideawhen storing a bike for a long period. When not riding a bike for a week or more in very hottemperatures, getting a fuel stabilizer into the system might be a good idea as gasoline may go badfaster in hotter temperatures.
Safety Materials
Long-sleeved shirt or sweater
Several rubber gloves
Safety goggles
Fire extinguisher
Squirt bottle filled with water
Metal/glass container with cover and water to hold oily/lubricated rags
General Materials
Space heater (if winterizing in an unheated garage) Swing-arm stand (or something similar to hold the bike upright)
Motorcycle tool box, plus torque wrenches, needle nose pliers, grip pliers, and screwdrivers
Ruler (to measure chain slack) and tape measure (to measure rear axle alignment)
Air compressor (for pumping up tires)
Tire pressure gauge
Rags and paper towels
Cans of fogging oil, compressed air, brake cleaner and WD-40
Bottle of brake fluid (DOT 3 or 4)
Bubble wrap and bag (for storing windshield)
Two plastic bags with no holes and rubber bands (for covering air in-take and muffler)
Mothballs (for animal prevention in storage location)
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Washing
Scrubber, sponge, soft cloths, bucket, hose, car soap, and car wax
Towel (if not riding the bike to dry it) and rags (for waxing)
Vinyl and rubber protectant (use a non-silicone / non-petroleum based protectant on vinyl seats)
Chain cleaner, chain lubricant and lever grease
Soft tooth brush (if the chain is really dirty)
Scrubbing pad (to get rust spots off the chain in the spring)
Fuel Tank and Engine
Five-gallon gas container and long funnel (should reach from fuel valve to gas container)
Fuel line plug (round pencil)
Bottle of Sta-Bil (or similar fuel stabilizer)
Anti-seize compound
Metal, glass or plastic container (to catch the float bowl gas)
New spark plugs and new air filter (if they need replacing)
Oil Change
Container/pan to drain the old oil into
Larger collection pan and newspaper (for catching any stray oil, especially from oil filter cavity)
Short funnel (for pouring new oil)
1500ml (2 quarts) of motoroil (non-synthetic, non-energy conserving oil recommended)
New oil filter
New drain plug gasket and new o-rings (in case the old ones need replacing)
Battery
Wire brush and backing soda mixed in warm water (for cleaning the battery, if needed)
Dielectric grease (when putting the battery back in the spring, if needed)
THE WINTERIZING PROCEDURE
1Choose a Good Long-term Storage Location
The location should be flat and dry. If possible, keep the bike indoors away from extreme
temperatures. Do not store it where chemical fumes, electric motors or heaters (ozone-producers) can
dry out and attack the bikes rubber parts
If winterizing outdoors, choose a dry day you do not want rain to get in the way of the oil
change, air filter cleaning, etc. Have a fire extinguisher on hand when working on the oil or fuel
systems and wear safety goggles
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2Check Brake Fluid
Thoroughly clean off the brake fluid reservoirs and top off the fluid if necessary
Do not let any fluid get onto the bikes paint
Remember to change out the brake fluid every two years
3Wash, Dry, Wax and Lubricate the Bike
Remove the front fender and wash and wax it as a separate item
Empty the trunk and then wet the bike with a low-pressure rinse, keeping water off the
carburetors (and air filter) and out of the muffler maybe cover the open end of the muffler with
a plastic bag and rubber band
With a soapy rag, wipe down as thoroughly as you can the greasy areas, and any areas
covered in brake dust (wheels, fender, undercarriage, calipers, etc.)
Some people use a degreaser such as Simple
Green for this, but others warn that such products
promote corrosion
With car soap and water, clean the entire bike with a
soft sponge. Re-clean the spots mentioned in the
previous step last. Rinse the soap off
Dry the bike off, especially around the seats and the
entire frame and welds
Wipe all chrome areas with glass cleaner
Make sure there are no fingerprints on the
exhaust or any other chrome areas that get hot
Before waxing the painted parts, take off the seats so
you dont get wax on them. Now wax the painted parts
Wipe a non-silicone based protectant on rubber
and vinyl parts (but not the tires!), including the
seats. Put the seats back on
Lubricate all necessary points and put trunk items
back in
If not winterizing, go for a ride to dry off any remaining
water and to warm up the drive chain. Now clean and
lubricate the chain
The chain should be lubricated every 1000km, when the chain looks dry or dirty, or after
being out in a heavy rain. First, place newspaper or a piece of cardboard in between the
rear tire and the chain you do not want chain cleaner or lubricant on the tire. Hold a rag
under the chain when spraying chain cleaner onto it in order to catch the sludge. If the chain
is really dirty, use a soft toothbrush too.
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4Take the Bike for One Last Ride and Fill Up
Ride around for at least 20 minutes to get the engine hot and burn off any remaining water from
the wash. Try to have the tank at least half empty (this to help with mixing the Sta-Bil)
Go to a gas station and add the correct amount of Sta-Bil to the tank first before completely
filling the tank with gasoline. Ride around for several minutes to work the stabilized gas through
the entire fuel system
5Windshield, Trunk Items and Muffler
At the storage location set the fuel valve and ignition to off, and place the bike on the
swingarm stand. Take off the windshield (if you have one), clean it, and pack it away tighten
the headlamp screws
Wipe away any grime picked up from the ride. Take trunk items out and store them separately
Spray some WD-40 into the muffler, preferably when it is still warm (hold the spray nozzle so it
doesnt shoot into the muffler by accident)
6Clean and Lube Drive Chain
Clean and thoroughly lube both sides of the chain (see notes above in Wash section), as
lubrication helps prevent surface rust from developing over the winter
See if the chain is in good condition or if it will need replacing in the spring. Look for loose pins,
excessive wear, damaged rollers, dry or rusted links, kinked or binding links. Count out 20 pins
and measure the distance. If it exceeds 319.4 mm the chain must be replaced. Or, if you can
pull the chain off more than half a rear sprocket tooth, the chain needs replacing
7Remove the Battery
Remove the front seat and clear dust and dirt off the battery area with compressed air
Make sure your ignition is set to off. Move the CDI unit (above the battery) out of the way
Disassemble the negative battery wire first. Disassemble the positive battery wire second
Remove the battery and clean the terminals with a wire brush if needed
Clean the battery box and the battery with a baking soda/warm water mixture if necessary,
and dry thoroughly. Store the battery separately in-doors on a float charger
Put the CDI unit back in place
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8Change the Oil and the Oil Filter
The manual says to wait until the exhaust pipes and oil drain plug are
cool enough to touch with bare hands before draining the oil. It also
says to clean the air filter with each oil change
Wear long sleeves and rubber gloves used oil is toxic
Remove the engine oil filler cap (1)
Drain the old oil into a pan by removing the drain plug (2)
(21mm). Oil will continue to drip out for quite a while leave the
pan in place
Remove the three nuts (3) (10mm) holding the filter cap (6) in
place. Oil will flow out from the filter cavity, so place a collection
pan beneath it. Do not lose the filter spring (4) and o-ring (5)
Check the small o-ring at the back of the filter cavity (C) replace
if necessary. Replace the old oil filter with a new one
Check the condition of the filter cap o-ring (5). Manual says to
use a new o-ring each time you replace the filter, but this is not
really necessary just check its condition and have a spare.
Apply a small amount of engine oil to the o-ring before installing
Put the filter cap back on, making sure the filter
spring and o-ring are still in place
Oil filter cover nuts (10mm) torque: 7-11 Nm
Clean the oil strainer (A) when changing the oil
Replace the drain plug gasket (B) and put the drain
plug back in
Oil drain plug (21mm) torque: 18-20 Nm
Pour the new oil through the filler hole (1). Do not
over fill. Check the level. Keep it between the F and L
1450ml of oil required for an oil change
1500ml required when also changing the filter
(1 qt = 950ml, so 1500ml = 1 qt + 550ml)
Put the oil filter cap (1) back on
Run the bike at idling speed for a few seconds to get the new
oil through the system. Make sure there are no leaks at the
filler cap, the filter cap, or the drain plug
Stop the engine and wait a few minutes. If the engine oil level
is low, add more oil until it is between the F and L preferably
1mm under the F line
B
C
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9Drain the Float Bowls and Drain / Remove the Fuel Tank
Make sure the ignition and fuel valve are both set to off, and have a fire extinguisher on hand
Lay down a towel to set the tank on once its removed
Drain the float bowls
Put a container under the carburetor drain hose, then
unscrew one carburetor drain valve (A) at a time to draineach float bowl
Pour this gas into the gas container
Drain the tank (remember, gasoline is highly explosive)
Put the gas container in place and have a long funnel
ready to catch any gas that flows out of the
disconnected fuel line or the fuel filter in the next step
Disconnect at the fuel filter the fuel line that runs from the fuel valve to the fuel filter
Turn the fuel valve to on and use that disconnected fuel line to direct the gas into the
funnel and container
After the on position runs dry, switch the valve to reserve and drain that gasoline too
When the tank is empty, reset the fuel valve to off and plug the open end of the fuel line
Wipe away any gas that got on the bike
Unscrew the rear mounting bolt (12mm) holding down the fuel tank do not lose the two parts
of the bolt assembly
Disconnect the sender wires for the fuel gauge
Disconnect the fuel valve from the frame (10mm bolt)
Gently lift the back of the tank and pull back on it to remove it from the front rollers, making
sure the fuel valve does not get caught in the other fuel lines
Lift the tank assembly off and set it aside on the towel
10Clean and Cover the Air Filter
Remove the four screws (1). Pull up the cover and the air
filter (2)
Check the condition of the filter for tears, etc. Replace now
or in the spring if necessary
Gently shoot compressed air into the filter, making sure tonot tear the filter
Reassemble, and cover the filter with a plastic bag secured
with a rubber band (to prevent animal habitation)
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11Check the Spark Plugs and Spray Fogging Oil into the Cylinders
Do not get the spark plug wires mixed up. Service one spark plug and fog one cylinder at a time if
necessary
To access the front spark plug, the oil cooler must be moved. Unscrew both bolts at the top
holding it in place and swing the cooler aside
Remove all dirt from the cylinder head with a rag and compressedair, then pull out the plug cap
Before removing the plug, blow out any dirt in the plug well with
compressed air
With the spark plug removed, spray a small amount of fogging oil
into the cylinder
Hold the spray nozzle so it doesnt shoot into the cylinder
by accident
Use a rag to block up the plug well opening
If the spark plug needs servicing, clean and gap it, or replace Remove any carbon deposits with a wire or pin and adjust the
spark plug gap to 0.7-0.8 mm, measuring with a thickness gauge
Check to see if the electrodes are worn or burnt. If it is extremely worn or burnt, replace the
plug. Also replace the plug if it has a broken insulator, damaged thread, etc.
Apply a light coat of anti-seize to the plug threads. Reinstall the spark plug being careful not to
cross-thread it. Hand-tighten using only the spark plug socket and extension, then torque it
properly with a torque wrench
Spark plug torque: 20-25 Nm
Put the oil cooler back in place (mounting bolt torque not given in manual) Put on the plug cap and repeat this procedure with the rear cylinder and spark plug
12Put the Fuel Tank and Front Seat Back On
Make sure the two small rubber bumpers are still in place on the sides of the tank
Carefully lay the tank assembly in place on the bike
Reconnect the fuel gauge sender wires
Lift the rear of the tank and gently push it back onto the front rollers
It may be best to straddle the bike and hold it in place with your legs while you do this
Reassemble and tighten the rear tank mounting bolt (12mm)
Reconnect the fuel line from the fuel valve to the fuel filter
Reconnect the fuel valve to the frame (10mm bolt)
Refill the tank with the gas in the gas container
Wipe the tank clean in case any gas got on it
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13Protect the Bikes Exposed Metal and Aluminum
Do not apply chemicals or lubricants to brake pads, brake rotors, fork tubes or tires. If you get
chemicals on the brakes, clean them thoroughly with brake cleaner
Spray or wipe WD-40 on the exposed metal, chrome and aluminum parts of the bike,
particularly the underside and the welds
14Cover the Muffler
Cover the open end of the muffler with a plastic bag secured with rubber bands
15Oil the Front Suspension
Put some motor oil on your finger and spread it around the area where the fork tubes enter the
fork sliders. Hold the front brake and work the front suspension
16Final Steps
Reset the Craftsman torque wrench to 25% or less of capacity if it was used
Inflate both tires to about 5 psi higher than normal (34 front, 37 rear)
Check the wear condition of all brake pads. Order more over the winter if needed
Move the bike to its final storage location. Lift both tires off the ground if possible but if you
cannot, its no big deal. Place a piece of wood or rubber under any tire not lifted off the ground
so it is not touching any potentially damp surface, like concrete
Take off the seats and store them indoors
Lock the bike and cover the seat areas. Cover the entire bike only if there is good air circulationin the storage area this to prevent condensation buildup on the bike and tires
Put some mothballs (whole and crushed) around the bike to repel animals
What to do with those oil/lubricant soaked rags
If keeping them: Dry out the rags by spreading them in a well-ventilated area, then wash by
hand and let air dry. Store in a metal container sealed with a tight lid, preferably of metal too
If disposing of them: Put them in a sealed glass or metal container filled with water
Call insurance company and tell them the bike is in winter storage and will not be ridden for
several months. Also let them know if the storage location has changed
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Over the Winter
Do not run the engine, as short runs will promote condensation inside the engine
Regularly check the tires to make sure they are not going flat
Work the levers and check lubrication points a few times
Make sure nothing is leaking
The float bowls will most likely refill with gas over time. Maybe re-drain them once over the winter
Purchase new parts like brake pads, spark plugs, and air filter if necessary
Charge the battery with a product like the 12V Battery Tender Junior
Locate the charger as far away from the battery as is allowed by the length of the output
cable harness. Do not set the charger above the battery
Never set the charger on a surface constructed from combustible material, or on a surface
that may get wet
When leaving the battery to charge for extended periods of time (several weeks plus), check
if the battery is unusually warm. If it is, disconnect and allow to cool Do not store the battery in the vicinity of sparks or an open flame (like a gas water heater or
cigarette lighter)
Do not operate the charger where ventilation is restricted
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In the Spring
1Call Insurance Company and Tell Them the Bike Is Coming out of Storage
Do this at least one day before you take out the bike
Also tell them if the storage location is changing
2Lift Tank, Remove Bag Covering Air Box and Recheck Fuel Lines
Lift the tank by first removing the fuel valve from the frame and
allowing it to hang free, so when lifting the back of the tank the
fuel lines are not popped off. Or drain the tank first if you feel
this is safer
Remove the bag covering the air box intake
After the tank is back in place, make sure all fuel line
connections and the fuel valve bolt are tight, and make surethe fuel gauge sender wires are connected properly
3Reinstall the Battery and Put the Seats Back On
Clean the terminals with a wire brush or compressed air
Reassemble the positive terminal first
Reassemble the negative terminal second
Lube the terminals lightly with a dielectric grease if necessary
4Drain the Float Bowls
Drain them again to make sure no water condensation
built up in them
5Perform a Thorough Inspection
Make sure all nuts, bolts and screws are tight, including:
Exhaust pipe nuts (1) (12mm): 18-28 Nm
Engine mounting bolts (2): 40-60 Nm
Muffler mounting bolt (3) (14mm): 20-30 Nm
Rear axle nut (23mm): 90-140 Nm
Swing arm pivot nut: 45-70 Nm
Gear shifter and linkage
Check tire conditions and pressures
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2
2
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Check all fluid levels and brake pad conditions
Make sure the gas cap vents are clear
Make sure all fuel lines are in place and secure
Check clutch cable condition
The usual wear points for cables are at the ends, where they enter the sheath. To inspect
the clutch cable at the lever end, squeeze the lever to pull the cable out of the sheath. Thatfirst bit inside the sheath is where the wear will most likely be
6Change the Oil if Necessary
Some say to change the oil if the bike was stored for more than two months. Others say if you
changed the oil before storing the bike, you do not need to change it again, and whatever
condensation built up in the engine will be boiled off once the engine is up to temperature
If you will be changing the oil, running the engine until warm will thin the oil and make draining
it easier. You do not need to change the filter if you replaced it when winterizing, but remove
the oil from the filter area. Remember:
1450ml of oil required for an oil change (if not changing the filter)
1500ml required when also changing the filter (1 qt = 950ml, so 1500ml = 1 qt + 550ml)
Before starting the engine:
Make sure to take off any plastic bags covering the tail pipe and be sure youve removed the
bag covering the air intake
Turn the fuel valve to on and wait a few minutes to get fuel into the system. Open the
throttle a few times. Remember: FINE-C
It probably wont spring to life right away, and do not race the engine until the oil has had a
chance to spread. Fogging oil in the cylinders might cause some smoke at first
7Wash, Dry, Wax and Lubricate the Bike
Thoroughly clean every part of the bike, especially if you sprayed a rust preventative on the
exposed metal parts and put oil on the front suspension
Clean and lubricate the chain. Use a scrubbing pad to brush off any rust spots that may have
appeared over the winter
8Clean, Inspect/Adjust, and then Lube Drive Chain
Clean the chain (see notes above in Wash section)
Make sure the chain is in good condition and properly adjusted. It should have 20-30 mm of
slack. Look for loose pins, excessive wear, damaged rollers, dry or rusted links, kinked or
binding links. Check that the chain is centered on the teeth of the rear sprocket
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Count out 20 pins and measure the distance. If it exceeds 319.4
mm the chain must be replaced. Or, if you can pull the chain off
more than half a rear sprocket tooth, the chain needs replacing
If readjustment is required:
Loosen the rear wheel axle nut (23mm) (1)
Loosen or tighten both chain adjusters (A and B) until thechain has 20-30 mm (0.79 to 1.18 inches) of slack in the
middle between the front and rear sprockets. The marks (C
and D)on both chain adjusters should be at the same
position on the scale to ensure that the front and rear wheels
are correctly aligned
Check for slack using several points on the chain, as
some can be tighter than others
Dont trust the marks alone. Use a tape measure to
measure the length from the swing arm pivot point to
the center of the rear axle, on both sides of the bike
Retighten the axle nut (while using a 22mm socket wrench to hold the rear axle nut on the
other side of the bike) and inspect again for proper chain slack and alignment
Rear axle nut (23mm) torque: 90-140 Nm
Lube the chain (see notes above in Wash section)
9Trunk Items and Registration Papers
Put back on board all trunk items, and make sure the bikes registration paperwork is in its
proper location (pocket of riding jacket recommended)
10Run the Engine
Run the engine for a few minutes (see notes in step 7) and then shut it down
Make sure there are no leaks in either the fuel or oil systems
Go for a ride to burn off the water from the wash and use up as much of the stabilized gas as
possible. Maybe go to a parking lot to practice too. Fill up with new gas
11Take Dated Photos of the Bike for Insurance Purposes
12Set up Appointment for Yearly Inspection
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A
C
BD