OPTICPLUS

Demystifying Po-larisation A Clearer Picture of Polarisation Technology

Just One Question

Ed HardyDesigning Its

Destiny

Photochromic LensesGaining Momentum

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Everything between you and eye

Vol.11 Issue 2 Nov/Dec 2011A FourPlus Publication

Everything between you and eye

Vol.11 Issue 2 Nov/Dec 2011A FourPlus Publication

OPBi-monthly Eyewear Fashion Magazine

Nov/Dec 2011 An

OpticPlus Suppleme

nt

OPTICPL

USNeed to know about

fashionable eyewear?Check out the freeOpticPlus supplement - GALLERIA

"We provide optical manufacturingsolutions, not just machines Satislohs Hanspeter Eigenmann andSubodh Modhe in conversation with Siraj Bolar

Everything between

Vol.11 Issue 2 Nov/Dec 2011

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12

Photochromic Lenses: No Longer In The DarkPhotochromic lenses have been around for a while. Read on to know what makes them even more relevant today.

Lens Talk 16 Designer 26Profile

In Conversation 36

Designing Its Destiny - Ed Hardy Heres a brand that rose to fame and has stayed there.

We provide total optical manufacturing solutions, not just machines Satislohs Hanspeter Eigenmann and Subodh Modhe in conversation with Siraj Bolar

In Conversation 36

OPTICPLUS : Everything between you and eye12

Nov/Dec 2011 An OpticPlus Supplement

OPTICPL

US

Demystifying Po-larisation A Clearer Picture of

Polarisation Technology

Just One Question

Ed HardyDesigning Its

Destiny

Photochromic Lenses

Gaining Momentum

Need to know about

fashionable eyewear?

Check out the free

OpticPlus supplement

- GALLERIA

Everything between

you and eye


A FourPlus Publication

Everything between

you and eyeyou and eye




OPBi-monthly Eyewear

Fashion Magazine

Nov/Dec 2011

An OpticPlu

s Supplement

OPTICPL

US

Need to know about

fashionable eyewear?

Check out the free

OpticPlus supplement

- GALLERIA

"We provide optical manufacturing

solutions, not just machines

Satislohs Hanspeter Eigenmann an

d

Subodh Modhe in conversation with

Siraj Bolar

OOOOPPOOOOPPOOOPPOOPPPOOPPPPEverything between Everything between Vol.11 Issue 2 Nov

/Dec 2011

All correspondence should be addressed toFourPlus Publications, 3rd Floor, Sahdev, Vishal Nagar, Marve Road,

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I N D I A | M I D D L E E A S T | S O U T H E A S T A S I A

CEverything between

you and eyeVol.11 Issue 2 Nov-Dec 2011


OP_Nov-Dec_11_Contents-Editorial_Page_12-13-15.indd 12 12/2/2011 6:58:31 PM

Buying Groups - Collective StrengthThough a relativelynew concept, buying groups are catching the attention of opticians in the country.

Digitally Changing The Eyewear MarketWith online shopping on the rise, its time for eyewear companies to reassess their market strategies.

Market 54Talk

Perspective 62Trends 46

Management 70Matters

Round Spectacles - The Iconic PairRound eyewear works. Want to know why? Read on...

Sell Value, Not Price! Bob Urichuck gives usthe lowdown on how to engage in value-added selling.

PLUS

HAPPENINGS 78EVENTS 86OPTICMAN 98OFF THE SHELF 114SNAPSHOTS 128INTERNATIONAL SNAPSHOTS 134

TRIVIA 140SOUNDING BOARD 144EYE MATTERS 154GALLERIA 158OPTICPLUS MATE 168STAR FORECAST 170

Ophtha 102Talk

Eyeducation 108

Just One 94Question

ComputerVision Syndrome Side EffectsOf Technical Convenience This ailment is alarmingly common in urban areas and can severely affect ones daily life.

Vision Therapy: What Eye Care Professionals Should KnowVision therapy is gaining importance in the world of optometry. Find out about the opportunities it offers.

Why are reading glasses still popular despite the presence of progressive lenses?Members from the optical industry share their views.

OPTICPLUS : Everything between you and eye 13


this is ic!berlinhello loved people! hello hated people! hello berlin! hello tokyo! hello mama! hello papa! hello mr. president! hello young people! hello tall people! hello bikers! hallo tante sybille! hallo angela! hallo frau bundeskanzlerin! hallo hundee guten tag dogs! hallo oldenburg! hallo philipp! hallo tante greta! hallo maria! hallo helden! hallo ic! berlin blechbrillen!

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this is ic!berlinhello loved people! hello hated people! hello berlin! hello tokyo! hello mama! hello papa! hello mr. president! hello young people! hello tall people! hello bikers! hallo tante sybille! hallo angela! hallo frau bundeskanzlerin! hallo hundee guten tag dogs! hallo oldenburg! hallo philipp! hallo tante greta! hallo maria! hallo helden! hallo ic! berlin blechbrillen!

RONAK ENTERPRISES129 Champaklal, Ind. Estate, 105, Sion (E), Mumbai-22, India. T +91.22.43402222 F +91.22.43402233 E [email protected]

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There is already a lot of excitement that is building up for the 6th Optic India, which will be held in January, 2012, in Mumbai. While trends suggest an increase in Indian visitors at international events, we look forward to seeing a similar growth pattern in this key event of the Indian optical industry.

The eyewear business, within India as well as globally, is on the upswing. Yet, there is still a need to create awareness among customers about the importance of specific eyewear solutions. Photochromic lenses is one such option that seems to find growing popularity. You can find out all about these lenses in the Lens Talk article.

And since the eyewear business is all about providing the right value to customers, you will surely enjoy the Management Matters article, where international motivational speaker Bob Urichuck talks about selling value and not price.

Buying groups, a new trend, is gaining ground in India, and two of them have started operating here, adding a good number of opticians to their networks already. You can read about this in Market Talk.

Needless to say, this is a power-packed issue and all the other regular articles like Designer Profile, Trends, Eyeducation, Ophtha Talk, etc., are also part of this issue. And as always, you can check out whats hot and whats not in our Galleria supplement.

Your feedback will help us shape the content in OpticPlus, so that you get the information you can truly use. So do write to us at [email protected]

Read on. Enjoy!

EditorialSiraj BolarE-I-C

Alim BolarE D

Vinita BhatiaG E

Prema ChandeDr Cyres MehtaDr Deepak GargSubash KatariaE A

Ishita BalS-E

DesignTabrez BolarC D

Purav MehtaA E

Amarjeet PrabhakarD A S

Paul Daniel NadarSonal MehtaG D/P

MarketingJasbir BolarM D

Farhan ShaikhB D M

FinanceR K TharoorF D

Manoj NahakA

AdministrationSamit MedidhiO A

Suhas DhumalHarish JavirO A____________________________________

Acknowledgement Models: Masha Bashkova,Tatiana

Modelling Agency: Diva Dubai (www.divadubai.com)Photography: Alim BolarContributing Writers: Vandana Gupta, Siddharth Bhatt, Kajal Sanghrajka

--------------------------------------------Our Bankers: The Shamrao Vithal Co-operative Bank Ltd. Malad (West)

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Views and opinions expressed in this publications are not necessarily those of FourPlus Publications. While every effort has been made to ensure accuracy of informationpublished, neither FourPlus Publications nor any of its employees accept any responsibility for any errors or omissions.

E



Recent campaigns from a prominent photochromic lens supplier highlighted the need for photochromic lenses for kids. Interestingly, it claimed that children are exposed to the suns ultraviolet (UV) rays thrice as much as adults. According to them, the crystalline lens in a childs eyes under the age of 10 years allows over six times more UV rays to pass through, as compared to an adult. And add to this, the estimate that 80% of a persons total lifetime exposure to UV rays occurs before the age of 18.

Thus, highlighting the importance of photochromic lenses might seem like a good marketing idea. However, it can be considered a very genuine need, if one gives it proper thought. As children spend more time outdoors than adults, and with UV exposure becoming a fact of life these days, preventive measures to protect vision will surely go a long way in ensuring healthy vision. Prior to this, photochromic lenses were

brand lenses, they are commonly referred to as Transition lenses.

THE PROCESSEvery lens company has its own manufacturing process for photochromic lenses. However, in general, for glass its the silver halides in the lenses that react to UV rays, causing them to darken. This process is reversible. So the moment the lenses are removed from sunlight and the stimulating UV radiation is no longer present, the crystals return to their original orientation and the lenses become clear again.

In the case of plastic lens, instead of silver halides, an organic molecule is used for a similar reaction. Plastic photochromic lenses have light-

Theres a lot more to photochromic lenses apart from providing wearers a chance to look at the world through tinted glasses. It is no wonder therefore, that photochromic eyewear is fast gaining popularity.

Photochromic LensesNo Longer In The Dark

brand lenses, they are commonly referred to as Transition lenses.

No Longer In The Dark

mainly offered to adults as a single solution for prescription eyewear-cum-sunglasses.

PHOTOCHROMICITY: WHAT IS IT?The phenomenon of photochromism - or the reversible change of colour upon exposure to light - was discovered in the late 1880s by Markwald, who labelled it as phototropy. This name was used until the 1950s when Yehuda Hirshberg of the Weizmann Institute of Science in Israel proposed the term photochromism.

So whats photochromicity all about? Photochromic lenses are lenses that are clear indoors and darken automatically to a moderate sunglass tint, when exposed to sunlight. The correct term for these glasses is photochromic or photochromatic, which refers to a specific chemical reaction these lenses have to UV radiation. But due to the popularity of Transitions


Photochromic Lenses

LENS TALK

OP_Nov-Dec_11_LensTalk_page16-17-20-22.indd 16 12/2/2011 5:24:57 PM

sensitive molecules that are distributed throughout the lens material or as a thin layer in

the front surface (just as silver halide crystals are present in glass

photochromic lenses).

When plastic photochromic lenses have light-sensitive molecules distributed throughout the lens material, the photochromic process is referred to as in-mass technology. Instead of distributing light-sensitive particles throughout the lens material, a thin layer of photochromic material is applied to the front surface of its lenses. This light-sensitive material penetrates the lens surface evenly to a depth of approximately 0.15 millimetres. This type of photochromic process is referred to as imbibing technology.

Corning and Rodenstock products use their own patented in-mass technology. Transitions, on the other

sensitive molecules that are

halide crystals are present in glass photochromic lenses).

Photochromic compounds fade back to their non-exposed state by a thermal process. So, the higher the temperature, the less dark these lenses will be.

hand, uses imbibition for 1.50 index and transbonding process for all the higher index material including polycarbonate. Imbibition and transbonding are proprietary technology to its products.

IS IT THE PERFECT SOLUTION?Typically, photochromic lenses darken substantially in response to UV light in less than one minute, and then continue to darken very slightly over the next 15 minutes. By this time the lens can effectively cut out about 80% of sunlight.

The moment a wearer moves away from the UV light, the lens will begin to clear. It will be noticeably lighter within two minutes and mostly clear within five minutes. Usually, it takes more than 15 minutes for them to return to their clear state.

Since photochromic compounds fade back to their non-exposed state by a thermal process, the higher the temperature, the less dark these lenses will be. This thermal effect is called temperature dependency and prevents them from achieving their full effect in very hot climate.

OPTICPLUS



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Conversely, in cold weather conditions, photochromic lenses get very dark. This makes them an ideal choice for those who like to indulge in winter sports, like ice skating or skiing. However, once the wearer moves away from the triggering UV light - for instance indoors - the cold lenses take longer to regain their transparency.

Some people worry about the lenses intensely tinting at undesirable times. But the molecules in the lenses undergo a chemical reaction and fully darken only when exposed to UV light. If they do change colour while one is indoors, it will be very slight and that too if any UV rays are present.

Even on cloudy days, or during dusk, the amount of UV light is minimal, which results in the molecules getting activated slightly. This is especially true for lenses from brands like Transitions. It claims that this moderate activation is intentional to allow just the right amount of light to pass through the lens to reach a wearers eyes so that they can see clearly and comfortably, regardless of the time of day or lighting conditions.

MARKET RESPONSEThe market has seen an increase in the sale of photochromic lenses during the last few years. One of the reasons could be attributed to a recent spurt in advertising spend by Transitions. This

definitely helped the consumer become aware of the existence of this product. A long-term, pent-up consumer desire for lightweight lenses that change from spectacles to sunglasses, in terms of the tint, suddenly transformed into a demand for it.

Another factor could be the continuing innovation in the product itself. With improvements in the technology, the product that is available today is much superior to what was introduced to the world, two decades ago.

PHOTOCHROMIC BRANDSThe most widely sold photochromic lenses today are from Transitions. Its lenses are available in plastic,

polycarbonate, Trivex and high-index plastics; as well as in bifocals and progressive lenses, in variable tints of gray and brown shades.

There are other brands on the photochromic markets horizon. The pioneer, Corning Ophthalmic, continues to offer a range of patented 'in-mass' photochromic plastic solutions, fully compatible with most anti-reflective and hard-coating treatments. This in-mass technology disperses photochromic dyes throughout the lens material (liquid monomer as a medium in addition to other technical components) with a specific manufacturing process ensuring that they are distributed evenly.

As UV exposure may, in the long run, degrade some of these molecules, especially those that are closer to the convex curve, others as-yet inactivated ones replace them. The company claims that this provides a longer-lasting, more consistent colour over the life of the prescription.

ColorMatic IQ plastic ophthalmic lenses from Rodenstock are available with an index of 1.67 or 1.6, which according to the company, make it particularly thin. It is available as single-vision or progressive lenses and blocks 100% UVA and UVB radiation.

Suntech Intense is Hoyas latest generation of photochromic lenses. Available in warm brown and cool grey and in all indices, it allows for light transmission of up to 95%, which means that it is extremely clear indoors. It activates up to 85% density outdoors, with a fade-back time of just a few minutes, according to Hoya.

Yet another company is Vision-Ease Lens, which has LifeRx photochromic lenses that are made of polycarbonate and are available in variable tints of gray or brown. These lenses reportedly darken in less than one minute and Vision-Ease claims that its photochromic dye is formulated to fade back faster indoors, as compared to other brands.

The eyewear market has seen an increase in the sale

of photochromic lenses during the last few

years, one of the reasons being the

recent spurt in advertising spend

by Transitions.


polycarbonate, Trivex and high-index

OPTICPLUS


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MARKET SEGMENT: SO WHOS THE BUYERAlmost everyone is a candidate for photochromic lenses. Parents should be educated how wearing photochromic lenses can protect their children from an early age. Kids are excellent candidates because their eyes are more susceptible to UV radiation, since they are continuing to develop as they grow older.

Then there are others with special needs that could be prescribed photochromic lenses. These include people who develop a heightened sensitivity to light, known as photosensitivity, and are therefore, more susceptible to UV rays. Photosensitivity can develop with conditions such as diabetes or recent eye surgery. The condition can be caused by taking certain prescription medications.

Some medications, even those used to treat conditions that are unrelated to ocular ailments, can also cause the eyes to become more susceptible to damage from invisible UV rays. Therefore, patients with special needs are good prospective customers.

NEWER CATEGORIESSunwear With Photochromic Lenses: Photochromism need not be limited only to prescription lenses. It can

also be used with sunwear to provide better vision. As history goes, a filtering technology was developed by Corning's Medical Optics Division for automobiles. It concluded that the ultimate windshield for automobiles should be made from tempered photochromic glass that had special filtering effects for enhancing vision for drivers. Though the concept was rejected by the automobile industry, Corning then adapted it to sunglasses and launched Serengeti, the first line of photochromic sun lenses.

Driving And Photochromic Lenses: Drivers are another good customer category. Windshields, in most vehicles today, block a majority of UV rays that cause photochromic lenses to

activate, or darken. As a result, when worn inside a car where less UV light is present, the ability of the lenses to transition to dark is reduced.

A new category of lenses, called DriveWear, offers a unique and high-tech solution for drivers. Using the technology of Transitions lenses, it combines the glare protection provided by polarized prescription sunglasses and photochromic lenses, which respond to both visible and UV light. The result is a lens that reacts to light both outside and behind the windshield of the car, and transition to a darker tint, accordingly.

With a variety of lenses and technologies, the photochromic eyewear sector certainly has a lot to offer to opticians and customers alike. The preference for prescription glasses that come with photochromic properties is rising significantly on an annual basis, across markets worldwide.

While research suggests that more than one in three consumers say they would purchase photochromic lenses, only 19% actually do so. Price may be a concern for some. But in todays market where buyers are willing to pay the price, if they see value in the purchase, this value addition is definitely worth the money. Does the buyer think so too? Maybe its time to ask them!__________________________________________

Vandana Gupta

...............................................................................

Email us at [email protected]

Break-In Period: The break-in phase is the amount of time a new pair of photochromic lens needs to get exposed in order to darken and lighten as designed. Ideally, exposure to sunlight at least five times of 30 minutes or longer is enough to break-in the photochromic process.

Effect of Temperature: All photochromic lenses perform better (i.e. get darker faster) in cold weather. For standardisation purposes, photochromic lenses are usually tested at an ambient temperature of approximately 22 degrees Celsius. At higher temperatures, photochromic lenses may take more time to change and may not darken to the same degree.

Quick Take on Photochromatic Lenses

How Long Do They Last?Most plastic photochromic lenses gradually lose some of their ability to change in sunlight after 18 to 24 months of use. For the best performance, plastic photochromic lenses should be replaced every two years. On questioning a representative of one the companies regarding this, he refused to acknowledge the periodicity stating that it could even last up to five years or beyond. So this is open to debate as to how long it does last. But as the company representative mentioned it could last the whole life of the prescription of the wearer. This makes sense because within two years time most prescriptions do change. However glass photochromic lenses do not show evidence of this fatigue and so the photosensitivity lasts as longs as the lens.

Generally when worn inside a car with UV protective windshield, the ability of photochromic lenses to darken is reduced. Recent improvements in technology have allowed products like Serengeti sunglasses and Drivewear lenses to provide an alternative for this by combining polarisation and photochromic technologies and providing a better driving experience.


OPTICPLUS


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With Audigiers marketing charisma and Hardys designing skills, is it any surprise then that the brand boasts of the biggest Hollywood A-listers amongst the ranks of its loyalists?

Madonna, Mariah Carey, Britney Spears, Snoop Dogg, Sylvester Stallone, Ashton Kutcher, Paris Hilton, Larry King, David Beckham, Usher, Kim Kardashian and Justin Timberlake are frequently spotted toting the latest Ed Hardy clothes and accessories.

It may seem like Ed Hardy was an overnight success. After all, the tattoo brand suddenly popped up out of

Images of intertwining waves, spiders, red hearts and skulls are not the only embellishments that artist Don Ed Hardy carries up his sleeve. Widely hailed as the godfather of modern tattoo art, he also lends his name to the Ed Hardy line of lifestyle products, which is recognised as the worlds largest and most popular tattoo inspired brand.

The technical brilliance and mesmerising imagery sported by the brand are a curious amalgamation of American, Japanese and Cholo symbols merged cleverly with hotrod iconography. But few know that Hardys success wasnt entirely of his own making. French-born marketing ace Christian Audigier was so enamoured by Hardys art that he decided to turn it into a worldwide sensation. He was truly instrumental in bringing Hardys tattoo culture into the world of fashion and catapulting Ed Hardy to new heights.

nowhere and gained phenomenal street creed within a few short years. The truth, however, is far removed from this. The man behind the tattoos has been around for a few decades.

His early images retro skulls, sailor girls, devils and derby-topped dragons have appeared on t-shirts, hats, purses, eyewear, belts, skirts, tights, boots, scarves, jackets, energy drinks, motorcycles and even golf carts sold worldwide. But all this popularity was acquired after a long struggle that involved breaking rules and more importantly, striking off thebeaten path.

DesigningIts Destiny

Images of intertwining waves, spiders, Its DestinyIts Destiny

So what makesEd Hardy - the brand, and Ed Hardy - the artist, stand out?They both represent sheer stubbornness to do only what one loves.

Ed Hardy


DESIGNERPROFILE

OP_Nov-Dec_11_Designer Profile_Ed Hardy_Page 26-27-30-32.indd 26 12/2/2011 4:49:26 PM

HISTORY IN THE MAKINGA Southern California native born in 1945, Hardys destiny became clear at the age of 10 when he opened a makeshift tattoo shop in his mother's house, where he drew tattoos on neighbourhood kids with wet coloured pencils and eyeliners.

He blew off a Yale fine-art fellowship to pursue a tattoo apprenticeship, while simultaneously receiving a Bachelor of Fine Arts degree in printmaking at the San Francisco Art Institute in 1967. It was here that Hardy mastered the demanding art of intaglio etching under the guidance of the late Gordon Cook.

Cook wasn't pleased when his gifted protg jumped into the socially murky waters of tattooing. But it worked out well for the plucky Hardy boy who blurred the supposed boundary between high and low art and carved a path through the worlds of art and

commerce. In 1973, he became the first Western tattoo artist to be invited to Japan to study with the master Oguri in Gifu City. Oguri, whose tattooing name in Japan is Horihide, was highly regarded as the pioneer that brought Japanese tattooing to mainstream popularity in who country. This is where he studied Irezumi, a Japanese tattooing style that had great bearing on his designs in the future.

ORIENTAL INKHardy pierced and painted the skins of a number of gangsters from the Japanese mafia known as Yakuza. When he returned, he opened Realistic Tattoo Studio in San Francisco. This was the first private, appointment-only tattoo studio in the US.

It was here that he focused on large-scale, custom Japanese style tattoos. This sensibility and style of shop, which Hardy imported to the US from his frequent travels in Japan, changed the

face of modern tattooing forever. By 1977, the demand for his work was so high that he opened a second shop called Tattoo City.

Hardys blazing images of devils, dragons and Buddhas were influenced by oriental etchings, 12th century Japanese hell scrolls, 19th century woodblock prints, Southern California hot-rod striping along with the funk and humour of Bay Area art. An unruly,

Christian Audigier: The man who made Ed Hardy the brand it is today

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designs around the arms of sweaters and down the legs of jeans. Followers of pop culture enjoyed this new way of wearing their individualistic style of fashion on their bodies.

FASHION MONOPOLISEDThere are now Ed Hardy stores in New York, Los Angeles, Boston, Seattle, Minneapolis, Honolulu, Tucson, Vancouver, Dubai, Johannesburg, Kuwait, Kuala Lumpur, Bangkok, New Delhi and Mumbai. The $20 million-a-year business - of which Hardy gets a small slice for licensing his name and art - is the brainchild of Audigier, who replicated the marketing techniques employed by Von Dutch Originals. He simply marketed directly to celebrity clients and opened stores in high profile fashion districts. In fact, the Ed Hardy brand today has entered a delicate stage where it is important to keep it cool and fashionable, without being overexposed.

Audigier's unique marketing style and networking more than any other designer to ensure that his high-profile clients wear his clothes as often as possible. The prevalent paparazzi culture implicitly propagates lucrative advertising each time these celebrities are photographed.

Audigiers remarkable ability to set trends helped him single-handedly make Ed Hardy what it is today - the most wanted brand of casual wear around the world.

THE LEGEND OF HARDYEd Hardy has marked its fashion territory well and eyewear is no exception to this. Its eyewear segment, Revolution Eyewear, consists of unique designs with oriental influences that go back to Hardys association with Japanese-style tattooing.

The eyeawear component has three categories, the first of which consists of sunglasses that stand out owing to their colourful and stylistic elements. The two constant elements in this range are vintage tattoos and crystals from the house of Daniel Swarovski. It

counter-culture aesthetic marked his imagery.

Hardy claims that he took up tattooing out of a combination of economic necessity and artistic curiosity. It was a challenge and an opportunity to be an independent agent and develop the mediums potential as an expressive art-form.

At the same time, he also found tattooings outsider status hugely compelling. He admitted, Tattooing was a commercial art in contemporary Western society and I wanted to become successful at the business itself and simultaneously grow as an artist. Happily, these two forces went hand in hand.

SUCCESS KNOCKS TWICEIn 1982, Hardy and his wife, Francesca Passalacqua, formed Hardy Marks Publications. Together they wrote, edited and published 20 books on alternative art. In 2000, Oaklands Mayor Jerry Brown added Hardy to the city's Cultural Arts Commission to reinvigorate the citys cultural scene.

In the same year, he was awarded an Honorary Doctorate by the San Francisco Art Institute. Additionally,

Hardy completed a 500-foot long scroll painting of 2,000 dragons to commemorate the turn of the millennium and the Chinese Year of the Dragon. In 2001, he was the sole US representative in the 7th Bienal of Painting at Cuenca, Ecuador.

It wasnt long before his increasing prominence caught the eye of the fashion firm, Ku USA, Inc. In 2002, Hardy licensed Ku USA to produce a line of clothing based on his art. Within two years, the collection caught the interest of Saks & Co. Hardy and Ku USA formed Hardy Life, LLC, which holds the trademark ownership as well as copyrights to all his images.

Christian Audigier reportedly flipped when he came across Hardys work. Inspired by the youth of America, vintage fashion, Hollywood stardom along with motorcycle and tattoo culture, it is no surprise that Audigier was smitten by Hardys artwork.

He made a deal with Ku USA to market it. Audigier emblazoned the tattoo

Ed Hardy's eyewear consists of designs with

oriental influences that go back to his

association with Japanese-style

tattooing.


designs around the arms of sweaters

OPTICPLUS


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ADVT_OP_Nov - Dec 11_Ronak Optik_Guess Ad_Page - 31.indd 1 12/2/2011 3:04:54 PM

Ed Hardy Timeline

present on the pouch that carries it, instantly making it a kitschy collectible.

All in all, the eyewear reflects a youthful, casual attitude - one that is devoured generation after generation. It takes a lot of confidence to pull off Ed Hardy eyewear and its strictly for people who are not afraid to make loud, bold statements.

Today, Hardy is primarily focused on creating and exhibiting works in more traditional mediums. Since the 1960s, he has concentrated heavily on non-tattoo based art forms, especially printmaking, drawing and painting. In addition to showing his own works, he has curated a number of exhibitions for both galleries and non-profit spaces.

Hardy frequently lectures at museums and universities and his works have appeared in numerous international periodicals, books, films and videos. He also mentors artists at his San Francisco studio, Tattoo City. Till date, Hardy has authored over 12 books - most notably the Tattoo Time series which is the first tattoo industry trade magazine. One of the most revered in the tattoo industry, his legend is bound to outlive him for a long time.___________________________________________

- Siddharth Bhatt and Ishita Bal

................................................................................


1967 Underwent a tattoo apprenticeship while simultaneously receivinga BFA degree in printmaking at the San Francisco Art Institute

1974 Pioneered the emphasis on unique tattoo commissions at his Realisitic Tattoo Studio in San Francisco.

1977 Opened a second shop called Tattoo City in San Francisco which also catered to walk-in clients.

1982 Formed Hardy Marks Publications along with his wife Francesca Passalacqua. They have written, edited and published over 25 books on alternative art till date.

1995 Collaborated with Bud Shark to produce a portfolio of lithographs titled Tattoo Royale.

2000 Appointed by Oakland mayor Jerry Brown to the citys Cultural Arts Commission and was awarded an Honorary Doctorate by the San Francisco Art Institute.

2001 Was the sole representative of USA in the 7th Bienal of Painting at Cuenca, Ecuador.

2002 Licensed Ku USA, Inc. to produce a line of clothing based on his art.

2004 Christian Audigier got the rights to produce the Ed Hardy clothing line, which is based on Hardy's imagery.

2009 Iconix Brand Group acquired a 50% interest in Hardy Way, LLC - the owner of the Ed Hardy brand and trademarks.

2010 IGP Beauty secured the licensing rights for Ed Hardy Professional Styling Tools. Since then, they manufactured a variety of blow dryers, styling irons, styling tools, and hair accessories that include artwork inspired by Ed Hardy's famous tattoo designs.

also has interesting combinations of leather and denim. The temples are usually large, with enough space for over-the-top imagery and stud-work and skulls are a central motif. So is the Love Kills motif which carries the image of a heart, surrounded by ancient scrolls, being pierced with a knife.

The eyewear comes in all shapes from the oversized to the tortoise-shaped, square-framed to the large rectangular ones. The lens gradients are usually in eclectic colours like pink, purple, green and red, among others. There are even rimless sunglasses that create the perfect biker-chic look. Though Hardys rebel image lends itself to all his artwork, the brand still has its own spin on femininity. With oversized sunglasses in pink gradients and skull imagery in crystal work on the temples, Ed Hardy offers a pair that is rightly named after the singer and fashionista, Beyonce. Not for the weak-hearted, this pair is custom-made for a diva.

The second category is called the Street Collection. Launched earlier this year in 2011, its meant for their young customers who want the eyewear for its brand value and prefer a more toned-down version of the earlier collection. This range has sunglasses in subtle colours as well as styles and it does not have the over-the-top artwork of its older counterpart. Definitely meant for those who prefer an understated look.

The third category is all about rimless spectacles and it predominantly focuses on lightweight frames. It, of course, has the signature Ed Hardy artwork on the sides of the glasses but is more chic owing to its being rimless.

A special thing about Ed Hardy eyewear is that the design and embellishment on the eyewear is also


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We providetotal opticalmanufacturing solutions,not justmachines


IN CONVERSATION

OP_Nov-Dec11_In conversation Satisloh_page 36-37-40-41-42.indd 36 12/2/2011 5:14:24 PM

Siraj Bolar (SB): Hello, Hanspeter and Subodh. It is nice to have you with us. So Hanspeter, I believe you are a veteran at Satisloh...Hanspeter Eigenmann (HE): You could call me that! I began my career with Satis Vacuum in 1996, which made vacuuming machines, and later I was responsible for its global business. Satisloh was created when Satis Vacuum and Loh Optical Machinery merged in 2004. Loh Optical Machinery used to manufacture surfacing equipment. This merging was a major step as we could horizontally integrate surfacing and coating in a single company.

Subodh Modhe (SM): Satisloh has been present in India for more than 12 years and we have our own sales and service office. Today, we supply complete solutions for ophthalmic and precision optics manufacturing, including equipment, consumables, tools, services and process knowledge from a single source. We offer all solutions for surfacing, coating and finishing.

SB: Just a few years after Satis and Lohs merger, Essilor took over Satisloh. How has this helped you?HE: Satisloh was a subsidiary of a Swiss company called Schweiter Technologies AG. In June 2008, Essilor acquired Satisloh. Our joint research capabilities and expertise has made it possible for us to offer all industry participants a broader, more competitive range of products and services. At the same time, we have managed to shorten the time taken to market new production processes.

SB: Given that you have a wide range of products, which component of Satislohs business is more important?HE: Currently, surfacing is the biggest component of our business. But we also have machines for coating, vacuuming, lacquering and finishing.

Our core business is to create equipment that manufacture lenses from start to finish, except for the moulding. Therefore, our range of products includes machines for surfacing, edging, coating, etc.

Satisloh AG believes that India represents a land of great opportunities. It recently launched its Mini Lab in the country and is planning to organise a series of road shows shortly, to help smaller optical labs scale their business. Here are excerpts of a free-wheeling chat that Siraj Bolar had with Satisloh AGs Hanspeter Eigenmann and Subodh Modhe.

SB: Essilor too has Kappa, an edging system that helps in chamfering lenses and is used in optical shops. How does this fit into the equation considering that Satisloh too has machines that it sells to opticians?SM: Yes, we do have machines that we sell to optical shops. But it is a very small portion of our business. In the US, there are a lot of these machines that we sell to the opticians there. But in the area that I manage, this is a small business. The machines that go to the opticians are usually glazing equipment, blockers and edging machines.

We like to say that Satisloh is not only about machines. It is an optical manufacturing solution provider. So, there are times when customers

Who is?Hanspeter EigenmannHead of Sales and Service - Europe, India, Middle East and Africa.With Satisloh since: 2004

Hanspeter's career began with Satis Vacuum in 1996, where he managed its global business. When Satis Vacuum merged with Loh Optical Machinery in 2004, he started looking after sales and service in Europe, Middle East, Africa and Middle East...........................................................

Subodh ModheArea Sales Director - India.With Satisloh since: 2006Subodh as been in sales and marketing

for 20 years and started his career by selling optical instruments. He joined Satisloh as General Manager in 2006, and today manages its sales in India.

OPTICPLUS



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SM: Six years ago, there was a big change in the lens-making process when optical labs moved from general toric lenses to digital surfacing lenses. In the latter case, the prescription was put on the inner side of progressive lenses. This evolution heralded a whole new generation of machines, which was a big step for Satisloh.

SB: Are all these machines supposed to be in the optical lens lab or do even big optical chains invest in them?HE: Frankly, it depends on the production volume. Bigger optical labs invest in big machines depending on the volume. At the same time, there are smaller machines that can be installed in small labs as well as big optical shops. But generally, our products are installed in optical labs, except for the finishing machines.

SB: Tell us a little more about Satislohs software business division.HE: We have lab management software (LMS) that can integrate all machines to a central computer and manage these devices centrally, including processes like inventor management and prescription calculations. Each of our machines has its basic software and then there is a supervisory software, which does the remote tracing or lens fitting, based on the prescription. The LMS works seamlessly so that the manufacturing

process can proceed smoothly.

SB: But wont people in the optical industry prefer to use the default software that is installed in the machine rather than invest in LMS?HE: This depends on the size of the labs. When an optical lab manufactures few lenses daily, it can continue doing that manually. A prescription can be entered into a device, the machine makes the calculations and the process for creating the lenses begins. This is how it works in smaller labs.

But in bigger labs, like the one Essilor has in Bangalore, then more automated control is needed. When an optical lab creates over a thousand jobs a day, it is impossible to keep track of every prescription. Such companies need an integrated software to manage it. Our definition of a big lab is a facility that produces two or three hundred jobs daily.

SB: Optical companies the world over are focusing on India. How important is this region for Satisloh?HE: There is no denying that India is an extremely fast growing market. And we are investing money and effort to tap this region. We have a team of customer service people who are trained regularly in Europe and locally. And we have some of our most modern machines installed here.

SM: There are over 15 labs in Delhi, Kolkata, Bangalore, Goa and Mumbai, which are using these modern machines that Hanspeter mentioned. That itself shows the kind of potential that is present in this country. We already have stock points for spare parts and consumables in the country and now we are expanding our service team here as well.

HE: I would say that due to the increased professionalisation in the business, India represents a great opportunity for us. And of course they are adopting modern lens manufacturing processes. Our product line does not cater too much to the smaller optical labs, which still use some manual process. But as they scale and become bigger, the more interesting the labs become for Satisloh. Because we are a company that covers the entire spectrum of solutions for any lab, be it small or big. Satisloh becomes a one-stop solution provider, which is a very interesting prospect for us and for the entire industry.

SB: Technology is moving at a very fast pace. So what is the product life-cycle of these new machines

have some problems and we work backwards with our R&D team and technical experts to find a solution. For example, a customer could have problems related to automation and we have solutions for that. There could be an issue about the lens quality, and for that we have lens testing facility.

SB: How does the change in lens manufacturing technology affect you?HE: The standard way of lens manufacturing begins with the blocking process where you fix the lens. Then comes surfacing, polishing, washing and hot lacquering; followed by washing once more or anti-reflective (AR) coating. Only then does the process go into edging, where the lens is fitted into the frame. A different machine is used for each of these processes.



and how often do your customers have to replace them?SM: This depends on the innovation in the technology behind the machine.

HE: The optical labs that made the shift to digital surfacing lenses around six years ago, or those companies that are making this shift, will need a new set of machines. The majority of machines in India, however, are still conventional machines.

SB: So does this mean that your machines need replacement every time lens material evolves?HE: Yes. Incidentally, Satisloh does a lot of consulting work around lab design for new lens materials. This is because every time there is any such change, our machines have to adapt

to the newer manufacturing process starting from the product generation to using new speeds and new macros for the machine. Simply put, different lens materials need different types of treatment. This is one reason why we always say that Satisloh provides total optical manufacturing solutions, not just machines.

SB: There are many smaller optical labs that would like to scale their business. How does Satisloh help them in this endeavour?SM: Two years after starting its business, an optical lab reaches a plateau and starts looking for expansion. This is when Satisloh can

provide a turnkey solution. We will discuss and understand what kind of production can be achieved, once the lab expands its operations. Based on that, we explain what kind of space would be required, what kind of power is needed and the number of people who have to be recruited. This is what we mean when it comes to offering customised optical manufacturing solutions.

SB: When you talk about customisation, does Satisloh also create machines for a particular companys requirement?SM: Basically, Satislohs machines are scalable. We have a machine like V35, which is for a small lab. We also have machines like V50 and V75, which are amongst the best time-proven

machines in the industry. Then, we have VFT Orbit, which is meant for freeform lenses. So we have solutions, which are scalable for different needs of the market.

SB: How do you train your customers on Satislohs newer machines?HE: Training our customers is a very crucial part of our business. We have an institution, known as the Satisloh Academy, which is an internal education centre located in Germany. Here, every six months, we publish a catalogue with details about training courses for all kinds of disciplines, starting from maintenance of the machine, to basic know-how in change, our machines have to adapt

to the newer manufacturing process starting from the product generation to using new speeds and new macros for the machine. Simply put, different lens materials need different types of treatment. This is one reason why we always say that Satisloh provides total optical manufacturing solutions, not just machines.

SB: There are many smaller optical labs that would like to scale their business. How does Satisloh help them in this endeavour?

Two years after starting its business, an optical lab reaches a plateau and starts looking for expansion. This is when Satisloh can

are amongst the best time-proven of the machine, to basic know-how in

There is no denying that India is an extremely fast growing market. And we are investing money and effort to tap

this region. Hanspeter Eigenmann

Head of Sales and Service - Europe, India, Middle East and Africa. Satisloh AG

machines in the industry. Then, we

OPTICPLUS



independent machines as a total solution to produce lens. We have just started selling this product in India and we are sure that this product will pick up soon.

One of the reasons I am visiting India is to explore the possibilities of popularising the mini lab concept in the country. In fact, last year we introduced a new manufacturing process, a mini lab, where you can have a series of machines that produce high-tech lens in less than 22 minutes, from start to finish!

SB: What is Satislohs agenda for 2012?HE: Our biggest task for the next year is to organise road shows in several cities in India and have many seminars. Here we can educate the optical labs

is to organise road shows in several cities in India and have many seminars. Here we can educate the optical labs

about the solutions we have and what we can do for them. This is a big event where we will bring a lot of specialists from Europe who can answer questions on the spot.

We are also expanding our product portfolio towards the smaller productivity labs to reach out to small companies that may not be keen on investing in bigger production units. In short, these are very exciting times for us.

SB: Yes, it does sound exciting, Hanspeter and Subodh. Thanks for taking the time to talk to us.................................................................................


generating lenses, to edging. These courses are offered to our customers to update their knowledge.

Of course, whenever we supply a new machine, we also provide an in-depth training to our buyers, so that the new machine is well integrated in their existing process of manufacturing lenses.

SB: Do these training sessions take place at Satisloh Academy or at the customers premises?HE: It depends. In India, if we have a group of technicians who require training, we will provide the machine at Satislohs office in Mumbai and also bring in a trainer from Germany to conduct this training.

SM: We also have on-site training at the customers site. For example, if a company opens a new lab to develop freeform lenses, then it is a very demanding step in the manufacturing process. So the customer will need training at the lab. Our trainers from Germany will, therefore, teach all the people who are involved in that process. This is because a shift in technology will affect all the manufacturing processes, be it polishing or lacquering. We need to send a trainer who knows all these steps and how our machines work best with all of the other machines involved in the complete process.

SB: You mentioned that the market for small machines placed at the opticians premises is very limited. But considering that more opticians in India are scaling up, isnt this a rather promising market instead?SM: Yes, certainly, India is a very important market for opticians and optical chains. There are over 25,000 optical shops all over the country and it is certainly growing very fast. In the context of opticians, we are talking about machines for edging, blocking and finishing. So we do have solutions for this segment and our edgers, blockers and tracers are already popular with them.

SB: What do you think about the trend of mini labs?HE: A mini lab is a combination of

Satisloh's machines are scalable for

different needs of the market.

Subodh ModheArea Sales Director - India,

Satisloh AG.


about the solutions we have and what

OPTICPLUS


www.satisloh.com

Optical Manufacturing Solutions

Satisloh AGIndia Branch Offi ce

108, Madhava,Bandra Kurla Complex

Mumbai 400 051

Phone: +91-22-6696-2520Fax: +91-22-6704-2205

Mail: [email protected]

Perfect fi t.Finishing Expert.

Complete Finishing SolutionsDimension, 3B, 7E, ES-curve and ES-4

No matter what your fi nishing needs Satisloh has the solution.From the Dimension for high wrap tracing and the robust 3B blocker to the 7E dry cutting table top edger and the automatic 5-axis ES-curve for specialty shapes you have unlimited edging possibilities.

Increase your effi ciency even further with the ES-4, a high volume industrial edger and the Edge-Server solution software.

Look to Satisloh for your fi nishing solutions.

www.satisloh.com

Optical Manufacturing Solutions

Satisloh AGIndia Branch Offi ce

108, Madhava,Bandra Kurla Complex

Mumbai 400 051

Phone: +91-22-6696-2520Fax: +91-22-6704-2205

Mail: [email protected]

Perfect fi t.Finishing Expert.

Complete Finishing SolutionsDimension, 3B, 7E, ES-curve and ES-4

No matter what your fi nishing needs Satisloh has the solution.From the Dimension for high wrap tracing and the robust 3B blocker to the 7E dry cutting table top edger and the automatic 5-axis ES-curve for specialty shapes you have unlimited edging possibilities.

Increase your effi ciency even further with the ES-4, a high volume industrial edger and the Edge-Server solution software.

Look to Satisloh for your fi nishing solutions.

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The Humble, Round Pairof the wearer. There's a certain demure appeal to them.

While most fashion trends, especially circular sunglasses, are seemingly everywhere all at once, there are certain markers in history that trigger group-think mentality in the fashion industry. And though there's no obvious source in chronology that might have ignited the interest of fashionistas who perceive this simple pair to be a strong fashion statement, we can always venture into the legends of our times.

When one thinks of round spectacles, the first few names that come to mind include at least one of these people - Steve Jobs, Mahatma Gandhi, John

Truly Iconic Spectacles

and has also struck a chord with designers across the world. They have always had a vintage, geek-chic and Hollywood feel to them. And whoever chooses to wear this style can be sure to add gentleness to their personality, while setting a standard for a simplistic design statement.

The wise round spectacles aren't a pair to be 'flaunted'. These are timeless pieces that reflect the integrity and understated charm

Well, round glasses have been on the scene for a while now and they are, without a doubt, a great accessory to one's outfit and, therefore considered 'cool'. Classic, yet not out of fashion, round spectacles, particularly because of its rich lineage, are not only 'in' vogue, but will also never be 'out' of it.

The round spectacles, though uncommercial in style, seems to have become a trademark of sorts

Round glasses have been around for many decades, so one would think they'd be outdated by now. Well, going by the iconic figures we have encountered in recent and past history, they're anything but that. In fact, it would be safe to say that they're here to stay. So what makes the round pair so special? Read on to know more about this truly magnificent and timeless piece.


TRENDS

OP_Nov-Dec_11_Trends page 46-47-50.indd 46 12/6/2011 11:15:28 AM

The Humble, Round Pair

Lennon and Harry Potter. Uncanny, how all of them, a league apart in their times, have one thing in common round glasses. So what makes legends like them opt for the simple-shaped, earthy pairs?

LEGENDARY LINEAGEA defining element of the hippie style during the 1960s counter-culture movement was owed to John Lennon, one of the front men of The Beatles. His superstar image, in round frames, has been peering at us from posters,

album covers and book jackets for years now, and is embedded in mass consciousness.

Known for his sagacious appearance owing to his long Jesus-like hair and round eyewear, Lennon's wire-rimmed glasses were sold at an auction, drawing bids of more than $1.5 million in July 2007, as reported by BBC. In fact, perfectly round metal eyeglass frames are more famously known as 'John Lennon glasses'.

Steve Jobs (RIP), whose recent demise brought the whole world together in bidding him goodbye, was arguably the greatest contributor to the 20th century invention, the computer. His

It's uncanny how Steve Jobs, Mahatma Gandhi, John Lennon and

Harry Potter, a league apart in their times,

have one thing in common round

glasses.

OPTICPLUS


OP_Nov-Dec_11_Trends page 46-47-50.indd 47 12/6/2011 11:15:37 AM

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classic ensemble was always complete with a round spectacle frame that immediately rendered a rather humble geekiness to this world-class IT tycoon.Some believe that his fascination with John Lennon was why he wore these spectacles. And though his genius was easily understated because of the eyewear he sported, round spectacles, while being the humble man's glasses, have always had an underlying charm about them. And clearly, this allure never escaped Jobs. His demise has only made designers wake up to the round spectacles, which are now making a comeback. And Jobs isn't the only legend that sported this unassuming pair.

Known simply as 'Gandhi', Mahatma Gandhi, the Indian freedom fighter who epitomised peaceful living, is still an inspiration to leaders the world over. This modest attire was never complete without his signature glasses. In fact, Gandhi's glasses, personal or second-makes, have a notorious history of being stolen.

Recently, Sevagram Ashram in Wardha, Maharashtra and known for being the place Gandhi stayed at when he first came to that town, reported the theft of his personal glasses that were there on display. Ironically, the glasses donned on the bronze statue of the icon in the Union Square Park in New York often had to be replaced owing to theft. Gandhi's round-rimmed pair are so obsessed over that they even inspired a font!

Lastly, Harry Potter (one can almost hear Snape's rendition of it), the fictional character who took both the

literary and the theatrical world by storm, couldn't have possibly looked complete without his round spectacles. Predictions by fashion-trotters came true when teenagers and adults started

appearing in the very round shaped glasses. Some even wore them simply as style statements, and not for medical reasons!

THE FRAME SELECTS THE WEARERCircular frames, though known for the simplicity of their shape, are not face-friendly. On the contrary, they are very selective of what kind of wearer they suit. While in theory they compliment square, heart and oval-shaped faces, in practical life they can be quite disastrous on such face-types, if not carried off properly.

Round spectacles don't only go by face structure, but also the wearer's personality, which should be nothing short of someone who is well-accomplished and has a clear vision of what he or she wants in life.

literary and the theatrical world by storm, couldn't have possibly looked complete without his round spectacles. Predictions by fashion-trotters came true when teenagers and adults started

They also usually look best on people with strong jaw lines.

HERE TO STAYLegends live on, and in fashion history, the round spectacles have already carved a niche. Throughout the last century, round glasses have been associated with everyone, from celebrated artists and stars, to intellectual thinkers and business icons. And what is striking is that almost all of them are men and rarely a figure noted for his cutting-edge personal style. In fact, none of them really wore it to make a 'style statement', but unintentionally ended up making one and how.__________________________________________

Ishita Bal

................................................................................


classic ensemble was always complete literary and the theatrical world by literary and the theatrical world by

Predictions by fashion-trotters came true when

teenagers and adults started sporting the round glasses. Some

even wore them as style statements, and not for

medical reasons!


OP_Nov-Dec_11_Trends page 46-47-50.indd 50 12/2/2011 4:04:23 PM

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Buying groups, as the name suggests, is a group of companies who get together for mutual benefit - not just in terms of bargaining power with their suppliers, but also a whole lot more. These are based on the provisions agreed upon by the groups participants.

Its a relatively new concept in India and currently, everyone seems to be unwilling to comment when asked for their reaction about how far they see this going. But in terms of participation, it seems to have gathered a good momentum.

There are two groups that have more or less spearheaded this concept in the country - Platin Optics and Cecop India. Platin has over 386 optical retail outlets under its banner, while Cecop claims to have added 170 members to its network, currently. What distinguishes the two is that

Cecop is focusing on the independent optical retail stores while Platin is concentrating on optical retail chains and prominent outlets all over the country.

THE ORIGINThe concept of a buying group seems to have originated in the early 80s when, globally, the eyewear distribution process started undergoing some changes. Retail chains subsequently had more bargaining power with the suppliers. Independent optical professionals, therefore, could not compete on the same level when it came to volume purchases. Understandably, manufacturers would provide better deals to the retail chains, making them more competitive than their independent counterparts.

These smaller optical entrepreneurs then came together to form buying groups. They leveraged their combined

purchasing strength to negotiate for better discounts from suppliers. This development helped in creating a more level-playing field, says Gemma Arribas Miguel, Director of Cecop India.

According to SproutLoud, a US-based marketing company, in order to procure products and equipment at better rates, optical professionals are now increasingly relying on buying groups to negotiate better pricing and handle purchasing with manufacturers. In turn, these manufacturers are also starting to rely on buying groups to streamline their products purchase and market their brands to buying group members.

AN INDIAN PERSPECTIVEThere are many optical buying groups, like C&E Vision and Vision West in the United States and Cecop in Spain, that have been in existence for over 20 years. Buying groups are now entering

Buying groups, as the name suggests, is a group of companies who get together for mutual benefit -

Cecop is focusing on the independent optical retail stores while Platin is concentrating on optical retail chains

purchasing strength to negotiate for better discounts from suppliers. This development helped in creating a

Buying Groups: Collective StrengthBuying Groups: Collective Strength


MARKET TALK

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the Indian market, drawn by the scope for offering their services in this rapidly growing eyewear industry.

Even today, many independent eye care professionals dont know that they can get the same discounts (on purchases) as the chains and franchises, if they buy through an optical buying group. From early this year, we have therefore been spending more time educating people in the Indian industry about this simple concept, says Gemma. She also adds that her company has been steadily adding many smaller optical outlets who see a great value proposition in being part of a collective, to their network.

Talking about Platin Optics, Pragnesh Gangar of Gangar EyeNation, one of the key members of the group, says, For a long time, there was a latent inclination amongst some of us to start

a national-level buying group, but it never materialised.

A couple of years ago, with Essilors help, Platin Optics was formed. Besides better pricing, we are trying to engage with select companies that can then distribute their products through our buying group exclusively.

The biggest advantage of a buying group is that the more the number of members, the better the groups bargaining power for discounts and marketing support. And manufacturers and suppliers will be more than willing to meet these terms, since it will help them address a chunk of the optical market through these members. This means better profit margins for both the sides.

The other benefit that manufacturers as well distributors see in the existence of buying groups is that they can have exclusive arrangements for certain brands with these members. Platin, for instance, is negotiating with Frances Groupement Des Industriels Et Fabricants De LOptique or GIFO, wherein select French brands can tap into the growing Indian market by selling their products through the members of the buying group.

Optical professionals are

increasingly relying on buying groups

to negotiate better pricing with

manufacturers.

the Indian market, drawn by the scope for offering their services in this rapidly growing eyewear industry.

Buying Groups: Collective Strength

Buying groups, a relatively new concept in India, is being discussed a lot in optical circles. Platin Optics and Cecop are the ones who can lay claim to introducing it to the country. And from the response they have gathered, it looks like they have made a good beginning.

Buying groups, a relatively new concept Buying groups, a relatively new concept in India, is being discussed a lot in optical in India, is being discussed a lot in optical circles. Platin Optics and Cecop are the ones circles. Platin Optics and Cecop are the ones who can lay claim to introducing it to the who can lay claim to introducing it to the country. And from the response they have country. And from the response they have gathered, it looks like they have made a gathered, it looks like they have made a good beginning.good beginning.

OPTICPLUS



DISTRIBUTED BY:COLOREYES EYECARE PRIVATE LIMITEDSHOP NO. 15/16, GANESH DARSHAN ,OPP. SHREE SAGAR HOTEL, L.T. ROAD,BORIVALI (WEST), MUMBAI - 400092.TEL. (022)3243 5328, 65772281, 30698377 Mob.: 9321009600E-MAIL - [email protected] : www.coloreyes.in

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Platin has the leading optical retail chains and opticians in its network. By signing up with our group, these French labels can be confident that their premium brands will be available only in select outlets that fit their branding strategy, Pragnesh explains.

VALUE-ADDED SERVICESMost independent eye care professionals are often busy managing their business, or are unaware about where they can find the best deals for their business. Besides, unless they have a very large optical operation, their individual negotiating power with suppliers remains rather limited.

This is exactly where a buying group can come in handy. They can negotiate for best discounts and schemes on their members behalf. The administrative committee of these groups even send out timely updates about the newer incentive plans and promotions to their members.

Buying groups can effectively override the lack of communication that sometimes exists between manufacturers and their customers. The latter might not always be aware of new product launches and availability, due to limited access to marketing materials from manufacturers.

Companies like C&E Vision in the US rely heavily on their online presence and social media networks to keep members updated about the latest developments in the industry, and also to improve

their managerial skills. C&E Vision, for instance, organises online seminars (or webinars as they are known) on a regular basis, where suppliers can talk about the latest technology in lens and frame materials and design. It also organised a flash sale for Marcolin on its Facebook page where its members got exclusive access to enjoy substantial savings on specified Marcolin collections.

MAKING IT WORKBuying groups provide services like Point of Sale (POS) material and advice on window display, too. They may even act as marketing consultants for their

members and help them sell more. These services, amongst other things, make the proposition of being a part of a buyer group a profitable option.

To ensure a certain amount of uniformity and level playing field, Platin Optics discourages price wars and unhealthy competition between its members. It has a policy wherein, other than the purchase price, it gives the suggested retail price for all products sourced from its suppliers.

With the shifting customer-buying patterns, it looks like the optical industry is in for an overhaul. Is the trend of buying groups like Cecop India or Platin Optics just a passing phenomenon or will it define the way the optical business is conducted in the future? Only time will tell...__________________________________________

Vinita Bhatia................................................................................


Even today, many independent eye care

professionals dont know that they can get the same discounts (on purchases) as the chains and franchises,

if they buy through an optical buying group

Gemma Arribas Miguel, Director of Cecop India

that they can get the same discounts (on purchases) as


members and help them sell more.

OPTICPLUS


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wholesalers and manufacturers/suppliers have become increasingly blurred and control has shifted in multiple directions. Industry giants like Luxottica and Safilo have adopted tighter controls on who and where they distribute products. Retailers, especially medium to large chains, are increasingly interacting directly with manufacturers and cutting out the middle men. Along with cost-effective gains, this helps increase control over where brands are sold and distributed. With heavily discounted designer products being sold online, brands need to do everything they can to preserve their brand value and this is not a surprising evolution.

The EyewearMarketThe digital market has changed every industry in recent times and the

optical business is no exception. With online shopping on the rise,

its time for eyewear companies to reassess

their customers buying patterns, as

well as their own market strategies.

Currently, less than 4% of eyewear are sold online, but this will leap to 15% in the next five to seven years as consumers become more comfortable buying their eyewear on the Internet. The growth is already in full motion in Western economies and is creating drastic shifts in buying patterns, which are impacting all aspects of the industry, from supply chains to customer interaction.

Let's take a look at the key impacts of the digital change in the industry and what the digital future holds for eyewear companies around the world. The first real impact has been markedly felt in the supply chain. The lines between retailers, agencies,

Digitally Changing


Digitally PERSPECTIVE

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anything to go by, cheap sunglasses has almost 250,000 monthly searches which is ranked within the top five searches related to sunglasses. This is just one of many indicators that points at the increasing demand for low cost, quality eyewear. In the US, there are many online shops offering glasses for $100 or less and worryingly for big label brands, some are gaining strong traction with customers.

With greater price transparency across the Internet, margins are under

In New York, there are several online companies, such as the Gilt Groupe, who have achieved unimaginable reach, in a short period of time, by selling designers brands at lower prices. Since they are creating a new force in the supply chain and a high quality clientele without geographic restrictions, why wouldnt manufacturers sell directly to them? This helps them quickly sell excess stock and also retain control?

For those businesses caught in the middle, the way in which their business strategies can adapt to these trends will dictate their ultimate survival in the new supply chain.

CUSTOMER'S SHIFTING ATTITUDESThe economic downturn has given birth to a new type of customer who appreciates affordable fashion and is not willing to pay the high price that strong brands once commanded. Established brands are now having to deeply discount their products and there is an emergence of new low-cost players which present a viable alternative to branded eyewear. If global searches on Google are

In New York, there are several online

has almost 250,000 monthly searches which is ranked within the top five searches related to sunglasses. This is just one of many indicators that points at the increasing demand for low cost, quality eyewear. In the US, there are many online shops offering glasses for $100 or less and worryingly for big label brands, some are gaining strong traction with customers.

With greater price transparency across the Internet, margins are under

CUSTOMER'S SHIFTING ATTITUDESThe economic downturn has given birth to a new type of customer who appreciates affordable fashion and is not willing to pay the high price that strong brands once commanded. Established brands are now having to deeply discount their products and there is an emergence of new low-cost players which present a viable alternative to branded eyewear. If global searches on Google are

anything to go by, cheap sunglasses has almost 250,000 monthly searches which is ranked within the top five searches related to sunglasses. This is

CUSTOMER'S SHIFTING ATTITUDESThe economic downturn has given birth to a new type of customer who appreciates affordable fashion and is not willing to pay the high price that

OPTICPLUS


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liteliteliteliteliteliteliteliteliteliteliteliteliteliteliteliteliteliteliteliteliteliteliteliteliteliteliteliteliteliteliteliteliteliteliteliteliteliteliteliteliteliteliteliteliteliteliteliteliteliteliteFinished Ophthalmic Lenses

Finished Ophthalmic Lenses




Finished Ophthalmic LensesliteliteliteliteliteliteliteliteliteliteliteliteliteliteliteliteliteliteliteliteliteliteliteliteliteliteliteliteliteliteliteliteliteliteliteliteliteliteliteFinished Ophthalmic Lenses

















Finished Ophthalmic LensesliteliteliteliteliteliteliteliteliteFinished Ophthalmic Lenses



















































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OPTICPLUS

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