Mkb Cash Pash Mohair

7/31/2019 Mkb Cash Pash Mohair

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STRUCTURE OF WOOL FIBRE

Wool has a highly complex chemical and physicalstructure, which is responsible for superior naturalfibre properties. Wool represents one of the mostfascinating materials, a masterpiece of design which

could never be duplicated in a factory.Wool fibre exhibits

A typical core-shell structure consisting of aninner protein core, the cortex (which is coveredby overlapping cuticle cells with scale edges

pointing in the direction of the fibre).The cortex is built up of spindle-shaped inter-digited cells, consisting mainly of ortho anddenserpara cells, which divide the stem of a finefibre into two halves.


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This bilateral asymmetry results in a naturalcrimp of the fibre being jointly responsible forcrease resistance and due to permittingenmeshed air, for insulation against loss of heator protection from heat.

The cortex contains macrofibrils formed byfibril-structured -helical keratin proteinsembedded in a cystine-rich protein matrix.The -helical material is responsible for the fibreresilience.

A diamino acid, cystine, cross-links the proteinchains and thus stabilizes the wool fibretowards environmental influences.

Cystine is also responsible for high wetstrength, moderate swelling and insolubility ofthe fibre.


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Wool is hygroscopic and the amount of water taken upcorresponds to the relative humidity and temperature ofthe surrounding air.

However, only the interior of wool fibre is able to absorb

water vapour, whereas the fibre surface is water repellentdue to hydrophobicity of the outer surface of the cuticle

This apparently contradictory behavior results in anintelligent moisture management system beingresponsible for well-known wearing comfort of wool

The hydrophobic nature of the fibre surface and the highcross-linking density of the protein layer immediatelybelow the lipid layer act as a natural diffusion barrier.

This can complicate wool finishing process and cannecessitate a modification of the fibre surface by applyingspecial auxiliaries and, in some cases, acid chlorination.


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Textile Fibres

Natural

Vegetable

Manmade fibres

Protein Mineral/ Asbestos

CellulosicCotton

Bast(Jute,HempRamie

Bamboo)

Leaf(Sisal,Banana,Pine-

apple)

Fruit

(Coir)

Wool Silk

Sheep SpecialityHair Fibre

OtherAnimal

Regenerated(ViscoseRayon, AcetateRayon

CuprammoniumCasien, etc)

Synthetic(NylonPolyesterAcrylic

PolyethylenePolypropyeleneAramidNomexPBT, etc)


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Protein Fibres

Goat Family

CashmereGoat

Other Fur fibres

CommonGoat

LLama

Camel Family

AngoraGoat

Mohair Pashmina GoatHair

Camel

Drome-dary

Bactrian

Camel Hair

GuanacoLlama

VicunaAlpaca

LlamaHair

AlpacaHair

VicunaHair

AngoraRabbit

CowHair

HorseHair

ReindeerHair

BeaverMuscat

Seal

Antelope

Santoosh


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Speciality Animal Hair Fibres

Description Producing

Countries

Fineness

(microns)

Length

(inches)

Mohair Turkey, S. Africa,

Lesetho/Basutoland,

U.S.A., Australia

25-45 4 10

Cashmere India, Tibet, China,

Mongolia, Iran

15-17 1 - 3

Camel hair China, Mongolia,

Russia

16-25 1 - 2 (fine)

5 10 (coarse)

Alpaca Peru, Bolivia 27-45 8 9

Vicuna Peru, Argentina 13 1 2

Llama Peru 30-60 5 10

Angora Rabbit France, Germany,

Asia, U.S.A

13 1 - 5


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MOHAIR

Source : Angora Goats

The main speciality hair fibre

Forms the long lustrous coat or covering of the Angora

Goat.Originated in Asia Minor.

Owes its name to the province of Angora in Turkey.

Cultivated by Turkey for thousands of years

Three main producers of Mohair Turkey, South Africa, USA

Other countries South American countries, New Zealand,

Australia for cross-breeding.

For centuries Angora goats were limited to Turkey. First

importation of Angora goats took place in 1836 to South

Africa and had become firmly established.


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Turkish Mohair

Two categories of Mohair Esas tiftikler (principal Mohair) andTali tiftikler (secondary mohair)

Principal Mohair (9 classes)

- Birinci oglak Superior quality, shiny & silky yield 70

72 percent.- Ikinci oglak short stiff hair, much lighter in weight,

yield 72 74 percent.

- Ince tiklik best average mohair, mixture of selected

good quality mohair, yield 78 80 percent.

- Iyi tiflik good average mohair, yield 76 78 percent.- Sira tiflik fair average mohair (coarse hair, yield 74-

76 percent)

- Kastomonu tiftigi Kastambol mohair, free from

grease, light yield of white shiny, open tufts yield 90 92

percent.


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Konya dug tifligi konia mountain mohair, high yield

equal to good lustrous & fibre fineness white, yield 82

84 percent.

Konya ova tifligi konia plain mohair, lighter in weight but

inferior in fibre fineness and yield, contain felted, reddish

brown and white fleece, yield 76 78 percent.

Cengelli liftings Gingerline mohair, mixture of mohair

similar to camel hair, mostly brown.


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Secondary Mohair (8 classes)

Renkli Coloured

Yagli greasy Hafif short & felted

Sari yellow

Deri Mohair from tannery

Sekari lightly coloured

Alata, Cengelli off-shorts from Ginger line

Pitrakli burry.


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U.S.A - Mohair

U.S.A imported Angora goats first in 1849 and within a

century became major producer of Mohair.

Texas, New Mexico, Arizona, California, Oregon, Utah

are the mohair producing states.

Angora goats over last 150 years have been developed

through long period of selective breeding.

This was accomplished by the use of imported stock and

by crossing the improved Angora bucks.

Mature bucks weigh 60 kg to 100 kg, mature does 35 kg 50 kg


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Production of mohair per goat 1.5 kg to 2.25 kg for doe

and kid based and wethers about 2.5 kg to 3 kg.

Colour of all Angora is generally white.There are three primary types of fleece based on

formation of locks viz (a) tight lock (b) flat lock (c) fluffy

fleece.

Grass and browse (50 :50) are the forage


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South African (Cape) Mohair

In 1836, a flock of Angora goats was imported from Turkey.

South African Angora Goat industry was primarily built-up

by cross-breeding.

Angora characteristics being largely dominant in thecrosses.

South African mohair today compares very favourably with

the best Turkish mohair.

Grading : Summerkid, Winterkid, Summer young kid, Winter

hair, summer hair,Sub groups : Super quality mohair, average mohair, mixed

quality hair.

Average yield 80 to 87%, Grease content 5 8% Suint 1

2%


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Properties of Mohair

Hair of Angora goat grows in long uniform locks forming

a fleece, which gives the animal the characteristic

appearance.

The raw fibre has a brownish colour caused by thepresence of foreign matter such as dust, sand, grease,

etc.

After scouring, the mohair shows silk like luster for which

it is mostly valued. The best grades are clear white.

Microscopic structure of mohair is similar to wool

Epidermical scales are only faintly visible and hardly

overlap. They lie close to the stem, giving the fibre very

smooth appearance


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Number of scales per 100 micron is 5 as against 9 11 in fine

wool.

The scale length range from 18 22 micron

Whereas in wool the cortex consists of two types of cells (ortho

& para), mohair cortex is formed mainly by orthocell.

This is the main reason for low crimp factor in mohair, less than

one crimp per inch.

The number of medullated fibres in the well-breed mohair is

normally below 1%. As in wool three forms of medulas are

found, viz. Unbroken, interrupted and fragmented.

High circularity of mohair cross-section is one of its

characteristics. The ratio between major & minor diameters is

1:1.2

Poor-breed mohair may contain high percentage of kemp

fibres. They affect spinnability and dyeability.


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Kid mohair fibres exhibit diameter from 10 to 40 micron

whereas coarse adult staples range from 25 90 micron.

Length of fibre of kids ranges from 4 to 6 inches for a half year

growth and 8 to 12 inches for a full growth.

Moisture content of mohair fibres is similar to wool. The same

marked hysteresis exist between adsorptive and desorptive

conditions.

Chemically mohair fibre is identical with wool.

However, because of dominent ortho-cell in cortex, mohair is

more sensitive to various chemicals than wool.

Mohair is more easily attacked by bacteria and mildew than in

wool.


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Commercial Uses of Mohair

In the past, largely as an upholstery material, usually in

the form of pile fabric.

Luxury upholstery of automobile and railroad, car-seats,where the fabric has proved to withstand hardest kind of

service.

High end aesthetic covering by variation of pile heights &

structure.

As an apparel fibre. Mohair is very popular in menssummer suiting, blended with other fibres.

Most successful mohairtropical is made of 100% mohair

yarn in the weft and a worsted yarn in the warp.


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Womens wear coatings such as velours, fleeces,

boucles, worsted coats.

Because it dyes brilliantly with good fastness property,mohair is used for nets, laces and draper of material and

produces many novel effects in decorative trimmings for

coats, hats, and shoes.

Long fibred mohair is particularly desired for use in the

manufacture of wigs and similar products usedextensively for theatrical purpose.

Rugs of beautiful appearance, with long pile, are made

from mohair.


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CASHMERE

Cashmere is one of the finest and softest animalfibres known in the textile industry.

The word cashmere derived from the word Kashmirand interchangeable with pashm orpashmina.

It is the down fibre derived from the hair ofdomesticated goat caprahircus indigenous to Asiaat high altitude (10000 to 15000 ft).

True cashmere is the very fine and soft undercoatobtained from different types or breeds of

domesticated goats designated as Cashmere goatsor down goats or Pashmina goats, found in themountaineous regions and high plateaus of Asia,stretching from Asia Minor to the Himalyas and OuterMongolia.


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Available in Tibet, India, Mongolia, China, Turkistan, Iran,Afghanistan, Russia, etc.

Cashmere : Russia (Kirghiz, Bashkie); Mongolia (Cis-Ural, Don);India and Tibet (Pashmina, Cheghn /breeds); China (Downgoats from Ningria, Suiyan & Kansu); Iran (Meshed, Kerman)

The Cashmere goat, depending on the breed and its country oforigin, varies considerably in size.

Cashmere goat is smaller than Angora goat. The range fromlarge animals weighing upto 70 kgs, 3 feet high to the shoulderto very small animals of less than 20 kgs and 2 feet high.

It has two coats, the fine undercoat or down and the coarse over

coat. The main characteristic is that the undercoat is welldeveloped.

The fibre is not clipped from the animal, but is shed naturallyevery spring, when it is gathered up or combed by the peasants.

Each animal yields only about 80 100 gms of this fine fibre.


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Colour of cashmere is white, and from fawn to grey,Iranian cashmere may be white, ginger and black andmay be more lusterous.

Average diameter is usually 15 micron with C.V.% of18 20.5 percent. Iranian Cashmere is about 19 20 micron.

The fibres are 1 to 3 inch long, the fibres tapersomewhat at the tip and root.

Cross section is highly circular

The fine fibres have scales about 14 to 17 micronlong, which protrude further from the body of the fibrethan on the other animal fibres.


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Indian Cashmere (Pashmina)

The name Cashmere derived from Kashmir as the

producer of finished soft animal hair.

Bulk of the fibre is produced in Ladakh area of J&K.Total production of Pashmina is 35 tons as against

world production of 5000 tons per year.

One scarf requires pashmina from 3 goats and one

shawl requires pashmina from 30 goats.Average yield in the form of top is in the tune of 45 to

50% of raw material.

Colour of pashmina is white, fawn, light brown.


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Govt. of India initiative for Pashmina

Pashmina Wool Development Scheme of CWDB

Benefits to accrue to 800 families from traditional & non-

traditional areas during the 1st year of the project.

Breed improvement, training, health care and nutrition of

pashmina goats.

Marketing arrangement through co-operatives/ federation

of pashmina wool products.

Establishment of early stage processing within the region

and its operation.

Enhancement of income of the goat rearers and sustain

their interest as a reliable means of livelihood.


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Increase of yield to 50MT

Formation of Federations or cooperatives

Stream-lining of marketing for raw and partially processedpashmina for value addition.

Buck exchange programme.

Distribution of high quality bucks in non-traditional areas.

Establishment of fodder bank.

Health coverage

Fodder Development

Provision of Improved Pashmina Combs for efficient

harvesting of pashmina.


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CHINA CASHMERE

90% production of Cashmere by China.

One of the best varieties of Cashmere comes from China.

This is the type of most commercial use of clothing.

It is usually divided into 3 grades.

# 1 Down 78 82% and Hair 22-18 %# 2 Down 48 60% and Hair 52-40%

# 3 Down 20 -40% and Hair 80 60%

#1 is suitable for choices garments, though coarse hairpresent in the other two grades do not matter so much in

outerwear.The main marketing centre for Chinese Cashmere isLondon, the main users are Europe and Japan.


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MONGOLIAN CASHMERE

Mongolian Cashmere is marketed through Russian

agencies.

Like Chinese cashmere it is combed from goat in the

spring season.

Russians have made great strides in improving the

quality.

Grades are standard quality of 50 60 % down and a

superior quality of 70 -80% down.

25% consists of natural browns and grays, 20 25%

of super white equivalent to # 1 white china.


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IRANIAN CASHMERE

Iranian cashmere is somewhat coarser thanChinese or Mongolian and much coarser thanthe Pashmina of India.

Unlike Chinese or Mongolian, the Iraniancashmere is shorn from the goats in the springin fleece form.

Principal areas of gathering and rough sortingare Meshed, Kerman and Berjoud.

Sorting operations are carried out in Tehranfor finished sorting.


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Sorting operations is highly specialised, a sorter cando only 1 1 kg per day.

Iranian cashmere contains colours of white, gray, darkbrown, black as well as fawns, which are not found inChinese & Mongolian Cashmere.

There is no specific grading based on amount ofdowns present. The sorted products are soldaccording to colour.


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Physical Properties of Cashmere

In raw state the commercial cashmere hair is unsightly,dusty mixture of fine undercoat and coarse overcoatfibres in the form of loose locks, batches or rolls.

Cashmere type : A coat formation in which the undercoatfibre represents a high percentage by weight of goodlength and uniform crimp all along the fibre length.

Intermediate type : The undercoat fibre is shorter thanthat of the cashmere type and is crimped only half of the

fibre length.Common goat hair type : The undercoat in this type isvery short and scanty in amount. The strong, straight orwaved outer-coat hairs form a distinct layer.


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The amount of down fibres or true cashmere present in

commercial samples can vary in wide limits from 15 90

percent, depending on the coat types and the sorting

done.

The impurities range between 20 40% of which the

natural impurities, grease and suint are the least,

normally less than 5%.

The solvent extractable matters are below 3% andacquired impurities like sand, dust, etc accounts for

largest percent.

Dandruff in the form of minute gray and white scales is

present in the root part of the fine undercoat fibres.


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In its microscopic structure, the undercoat fibres are

merino wool like, consisting of the epidermis and cortical

layer free of any medullation.

The epidermis scales are more distinct than in mohairbut less than in wool.

The scale margins are relatively far apart, averaging 6 to

7 per 100 micron and with smooth edges.

The cortical layer of the white and light coloured fibres

show distinct longitudinal striations which are coveredup by the colour pigment in the dark fibres.

The fibre cross-sections are practically circular.

The outer coat fibres or beard hairs consist of three

parts : the epidermis, cortical layer and the medulla.


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Physical Properties of Cashmere

Fineness of various

Cashmeres (in micron)

Origin Cashmere down

(Average range of

diameter)

Beard Hairs (outercoat)

(Average range of

diameter)

Pashmina 14.5 - 16 65 80

China 14.5 - 16 65 80

Mongolia 14.5 - 16 75 85

Iran 17.519 65 80

Afganistan 16.517.5 65 - 80


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Commercial Uses of Cashmere

Cashmere is used mainly for producing high quality

knitwear, sweater, mens hose, womens dress material

and coats, mens waist and sports coats, top coats and

overcoats, dressing gowns.

One of the most expensive products is a Cashmere silk

velour with a natural silk warp and a cashmere weft.

The percentage of cashmere in the various products

varies widely from 10 to 100 percent.Cashmere shawl, stoles and scarves are vary popular in

European and U.S.A. markets.


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CAMEL HAIR

Chief producers of camel hair were China and Mangolia.

Now also Afganistan, Iran, Iraq, Pakistan and Syria

produce camel hair.

There are two types of camels viz. Arabian camel (with

one hump) known as Dromedary and Bactrian camel

(with two humps).

Bactrian camel in Mangolia, Chinese north westernprovinces produces the best, softest and finest camel

hair.


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The camel hair is neither sheared not plucked. The hairbegins to form matted strands and tufts and falls off inclumps, during molting season in the spring.

Average yield of hair from each animal per year is almost 22.5 kg.

The fine fibres are uniform in diameter ranging from 5 to40 micron.

The fibres are wool like with epidermis and coated layer.

The reels are faintly visible and scale edges are generallysmooth.

No. of scales varies from 4 to 9 with average of 6.2 for 100micron.


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COMMERCIAL USE OF CAMEL FIBRES

Mens wear, high grade over coatings

Camel hair fleece & noils are used often mixed with a

certain amount of fine wools, or 10% of nylon for strength,for manufacture of fabric for overcoats, knitwear and rugs.

Also used for industrial fabric such as press cloth used in

the extraction of oil from seeds and belting cloth.

Hamadan rugs from Hamadan in Iran are generally madefrom camel fibres.


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LLAMA ALPACA, VICUNA AND GUANACO

Four species of animal of the Auchenia genus or Llama

family provides speciality hairs used in textiles.

They live at high altitude in the Andes range of mountain in

South America (Peru, Bolivia).

Domesticated llama is kept as pack animal and for food and

the alpaca kept for its wool.

Vicuna & guanaco are small, wild and rare.

Fertile hybrids of two domesticated species viz huarizo and

misti are also kept.


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These animals played an important role in the

civilization of the high Andes from pre-inca times

and during the inca period their husbandary was verycarefully regulated.

The wild species were lusted to obtain very fine hair

at intervals of 4 years.

Spinning & weaving of materials from these fibres

were highly organized, only the Inca & his count

being privileged to wear the fine vicune.


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Fur Fibres

Angora Rabbit

Common Rabbits

Muskrat Hairs

Beaver Hairs

Reindeer Hair


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Angora Rabbit Fibres

Angora rabbit is the fur fibre that has been largestused in the textile industry.

The wool of the Angora rabbit has been spun by

French country women for more than a century.Other producers are U.K., Netherlands, U.S.A,Belgium, China, India, etc.

Angora rabbit yields 200 gms to 300 gms per year.

Angora rabbit generally molts four times a yearThe rabbits are usually shorn, clipped or plucked 4times a year.

Mkb Cash Pash Mohair

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