LARRIMORS

Larrimor’sForum/The Substance of Style/Fall 2012

A CHANGEOF SEASONSWARMING UP TO COOLER WEATHER

WHYCUSTOM?

WHY NOT? WE DEBUNK SOME

COMMON MYTHS

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LARRIMOR’S249 Fifth Avenue, Pittsburgh

412-471-5727

The Galleria, Mt. Lebanon412-344-5727

Larrimors.com

EDITOR-IN-CHIEFKaren Alberg Grossman

DESIGN DIRECTORHans Gschliesser

MANAGING EDITORJillian LaRochelle

PROJECT MANAGERLisa Montemorra

DESIGNERSCynthia Lucero, Jean-Nicole Venditti

CONCEPT DIRECTORSAndrew Mitchell, Russ Mitchell

MERCHANDISING DIRECTORBob Mitchell

DIRECTOR OF PRODUCTIONPeg Eadie

BUSINESS JOURNAL S FASHION GROUPPUBLISHER

Stuart NifoussiPRESIDENT AND CEO

Britton JonesCHAIRMAN AND COO

Mac BrightonCHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER

Christine Sullivan

APPAREL FORUM Andrisen Morton DENVER, CO

Garys NEWPORT BEACH, CAHubert White MINNEAPOLIS, MN

Kilgore Trout CLEVELAND, OHLarrimor’s PITTSBURGH, PA

Malouf’s LUBBOCK/SOUTHLAKE, TXMario’s PORTLAND, OR/SEATTLE, WAMitchells/Marshs HUNTINGTON, NY

Mitchells/Richards WESTPORT/GREENWICH, CTOak Hall MEMPHIS, TNRodes LOUISVILLE, KY

Rubensteins NEW ORLEANS, LAStanley Korshak DALLAS, TX

Wilkes Bashford SAN FRAN/PALO ALTO, CA

FASHION FORUM MAGAZINE IS PUBLISHED IN 10 REGIONAL EDITIONS FOR MEMBER

STORES OF THE APPAREL FORUM COPYRIGHT 2012. PUBLISHED BY BUSINESS

JOURNALS, INC, P.O. BOX 5550, NORWALK, CT 06856, 203-853-6015 • FAX: 203-852-8175;

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PERMISSION OF THE PUBLISHERS. VOLUME 15, ISSUE 2. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A.

FEATURES22 Parking in Pittsburgh

28 Nothing Generic About Andrew Kozusko

36 Happenings

44 People Really Do Visit Pittsburgh

FASHION8 Fall Fashion Forward

42 Fit: The Evolution of the Suit

47 Why Choose Custom?

52 The Merits of Made to Measure

56 A Change of Seasons

DEPARTMENTS 20 Ask Forum for Her

32 Ask Forum for Him

66 Food: Roll With It

68 Icons: The Marilyn Mystique

30 Contents.qxp:TOC 7/13/12 3:11 PM Page LAR2

LARR_P002.pdf

Passion for NatureFeaturing “Oasi Zegna” Landscape

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FRAMES AS UNIQUE AS THE FACES THEY’RE ON.

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B Y L I S A S L E S I N G E R , C O - O W N E R & B U Y E R | P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y T O M C W E N A R

O N BEHALF OF YOUR FRIENDS AT LARRIMOR’S FOR HER, we

are excited to announce that we are “expecting” a

number of new additions this season! As a matter of

fact, thanks to your great feedback, friendship and support,

we are on our way to doubling our seasonal offerings.

Welcome to our evolution! Our designer, lifestyle and

contemporary selections have never been more expansive.

There is and will be an ever-changing selection of looks from

new and beloved designers that include more styles, more

sizes and a wider range of price-points than ever before.

Some of your current favorite designers, like Etro, Santorelli

and Lafayette 148 New York, are joined by newcomers

Escada, Lida Baday, St. John, Armani Collezioni,

Fuzzi and D. Exterior.

We have also expanded lifestyle sportswear to in-

clude more of what you want: Autumn Cashmere,

Aldo Martins, Caroline Rose, Damask, Kinross,

Beija Flor and XCVI.

Our “ageless” contemporary gives you more special items,

each one “on trend” from current and new favorites: Vince,

Jakett, Magaschoni, Yoga Jeans, Rachel Roy, Gender Bias,

Lola & Sophie.

This season, look for feminine and flattering dresses from

every line including, Issa—which Kate Middleton has made

part of her signature look. The resurrected pantsuit from Ar-

mani, Escada, Lida Baday and Santorelli looks as chic as ever

in rich colors and seasonless fabrics. Bright, bold colors from

this past season transition into deep jewel tones—look for

colorblock jackets and sweaters, and super-clean sheath

dresses from Rachel Roy and Escada. Pants are either wider

(look for fabrics with some movement to keep them looking

feminine) or slim. Yes, leggings are still with us; look for novelty

fabrics, leather trim, or self fabric patches and pair with more

volume on top or a fitted jacket over a long layer as a base.

Don’t forget to finish your look with the perfect accessories.

Our team has a solution for every challenge! Style is in the

bag with B May, Will Leather, Kooba, Hammitt, Romy Gold,

Plinio Visona, MZ Wallace and Treesje. Structured or soft,

look for muted “fall” colors or new neutrals punched up by

textural interest. Wrap yourself in our ever-growing selection

of scarves and shawls from Emilio Pucci, Etro, Brightly

Twisted, Me & Kashmere, Yarnz, Kinross and Pashma. Get

your shine on with our newest jewelry collections, including

Alexis Bittar, Deborah Grivas, Vita Fede and new great styles

from Gillian Julius.

Turn the page for a peek of what’s in store for you this

season.

Thanks to your great feedback, friend-ship and support, we are on our way to doubling our seasonal offerings.

FALL FASHION FORWARD

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INVESTED IN YOUR INTERESTSFOR OVER A QUARTER OF A CENTURY

the Next Generation in the Financial Planning Process

NADAV BAUMExecutive Vice President,Financial Advisor

When you meet with your financial advisor, are your children, grandchildren and other beneficiaries included in the process? If the answer is no, you are not alone. More often than not, when I ask clients if they wish to include children in our discussions, the responses range from, “Our children are doing fine.” to “They don’t need to know about our finances.”

I believe it is prudent for those closest to you, particularly as they grow older, to be included in every step of the financial planning process. They should know about your lifestyle, assets, liabilities, attitudes about money, future goals, and to whom and where you want your money to go once you are gone.

INCLUDE THE NEXT GENERATION AS YOU ESTABLISH AND PRIORITIZE YOUR FINANCIAL GOALS:

Financial discussions can be difficult, even among the most congenial of families. Still, if you begin sharing information early on in the process, you can feel more confident, avoid future conflicts, and make better decisions today that can affect long-term financial goals.

Including

Mr. Baum can be contacted at

The accuracy and completeness of this information is not guaranteed. The opinions expressed are those of the author and not necessarily those of BPU Investment Management, Inc. or its affiliates. The material is solely for informational purposes and is not a solicitation of an offer to buy any security or instrument or to participate in any trading strategy. Though our firm provides planning services, we do not render specific legal, accounting or tax advice. Always consult an appropriate professional before implementing any planning decisions. Asset allocation, diversification, and rebalancing do not assume a positive return or protect against loss. © 2012 BPU Investment Management, Inc.

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Q:fashion? We are constantly tweaking our con-temporary mix, as fashions changequickly, but we always want yourclothes to offer you versatility. At LARRIMOR’S for her, we look for modernknits, sweaters and shirts that can beworn with your favorite jeans or leg-gings. Some of our picks for fall 2012include Vince’s supersoft tees in a vari-ety of shapes, Autumn Cashmere’s col-orblocked sweaters and knit dresses,and Gender Bias’s double-knit jacketsand tunics.

We are also excited to bring youRachel Roy’s newest collection, featur-ing double-faced dresses and jackets infabulous colors that go from day to din-ner with ease. Finally, ISSA dresses—made even more popular by KateMiddleton—are as chic as they are fem-inine...just like Kate!

Q:How can I get more mileageout of my outerwear?

In Pittsburgh, the need for layering isespecially important. Luckily, this sea-son brings many warm coat optionsthat are still lightweight, sleek and fem-inine, and can be worn over chunkiersweaters (or not). When you’re not surewhat the weather has in store, try a coatfrom Barbour, whose equestrian-inspired designs are at home in town orcountry. Look for our Barbour tent atthe Family House Polo Match inSeptember. If you miss the event, just

stop in at either store and ask to seethe zip-in vest: it’s a great option tohelp extend your Barbour season!

We are focused on finding you outer-wear that’s fresh and different. Look forgreat waterproof coats from Jane Post,and the ultimate Urban Parka from SAM.

Also, fur continues to be chic andsporty in textured vests, and luxe butpractical in super-light carcoats thatreverse to rainwear. The quality piecesalways have a modern twist, and offermultiple layers for your changing needs.

If you buy only one coat this season,make sure it’s a shaped, three-quarterlength, mid-weight style that’s versatileenough in color and texture to layerwith the rest of your clothing.

Q:What are you most excitedabout this season?

Do I have to pick just one thing? Sorry,but it’s too difficult! We have added somuch new women’s product for fall thatwe’ve dedicated a photo spread in thismagazine to it, just to whet yourappetite!

We also have more events slated thanever before. On our schedule are trunkshows from Autumn Cashmere, NinaMcLemore, Lafayette 148 New York,Jane Post, Escada, St. John, PeggyJennings, Alta Moda… and so muchmore! Make sure to let us know (viaphone, email, or during your next visit)what you’re looking for, so that we cankeep you in the know when new fash-ions from your favorite designers arrive.

20

FASHION TIPS FOR HER

ASKLISA

RAC

HEL

RO

Y

30 Larrimors Ask Lisa.qxp:LARR_ 7/31/12 11:55 AM Page 20

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WE’VE ALL HAD THIS EXPERIENCE. You’re heading into

Downtown Pittsburgh for lunch with friends and a

carefree afternoon of shopping in the most livable

city in the country. But the broad smile on your face is soon re-

placed by a steely frown as you find parking garage after park-

ing garage “FILLED” or posted with the dreaded “LEASES

ONLY” sign.

The demand for parking is ever-present, and here to stay, be-

cause we have a dynamic and growing Downtown Pittsburgh.

Our city is filled to abundance with vibrant cultural, sports and

shopping opportunities, a growing residential presence, and

more and more business, corporate and riverfront development.

No wonder people want to come to Downtown in greater

numbers than ever before! That is a trend that we should wel-

come and encourage—now and in the future.

INSIDER SECRETS TO SUCCESSFUL PARKING IN DOWNTOWN PITTSBURGH

by Tom Michael, president of Larrimor’s, with contributions from Merrill Stabile, president of ALCO Parking Corporation

1Shop at Larrimor’s We validate customer parking fortime spent in our downtown store. So the simple state-

ment that “I’m going to Larrimor’s” at 3PNC Plaza or Mel-lon Square garages will always elicit a knowing smile fromthe parking attendant patrolling the filled-to-capacity struc-ture. With the wave of a hand, you will be ushered to a cov-eted parking space. Check out Larrimors.com (“Locations”tab) for the simple instructions.

2Download the FREE ParkPGH App With this efficienttool in hand, you can easily identify which garages in

the Cultural District have “availability,” are “approaching ca-pacity,” or have “few spots available.” And with one simpleclick on the garage of choice, view its precise location onthe map of Downtown Pittsburgh AND rates for parking.Plus, it’s only going to get better as future apps expand toinclude more garages outside the Cultural District and be-come even more high tech (imagine pre-paying your park-ing spot and swiping a barcode on your smart phone forimmediate garage entry). For more info, visit ParkPGH.org.

3Market Square’s Valet Parking Turn onto MarketStreet from Fifth Avenue, make a quick right and pull

up to the well-marked valet stand in Market Square mannedMonday through Saturday from 5 p.m. to midnight. Here’show it works (at presstime): Everyone pays $5 up front.Visit any Market Square restaurant and they’ll validate yourticket so that no further payment is needed. If you go out-side of the Square (to another restaurant, a ballgame, theArts Festival or other venue of your choice), you pay only$2 more when you pick up your keys. Tri-State Valet at-tendants park your car in the well-lit, secure environmentof the 3rd Street Garage and don’t leave until you return.

4 Call PDP To Reserve Your Parking Space With justa phone call—or a mouse-click—you can reserve your

Downtown parking space in any of the 11 participatinggarages. Simply call Pittsburgh Downtown Partnership at412.566.4190 or visit downtownpittsburgh.com/getting-around/parking/reservation. A minimum 24-hour advancenotice is required and a few restrictions apply (most notably,this courtesy program is only offered Monday through Fri-day from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m.).

TOP 4 INSIDER SECRETS TO DOWNTOWN PARKING


(continued)

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But to realize our city’s full potential, one must understand the

business realities associated with that desire. The collateral need

for accessible parking is an obvious consideration. Ironically, in

a city that services the daily needs of 130,000 downtown work-

ers with approximately 20,000 parking spaces, the business of

providing parking to those customers and constituents is actu-

ally a low-margin and relatively unattractive business venture for

Pittsburgh developers. Startup and building costs for con-

structing and managing these facilities are significant and,

without government subsidies, it is a highly risky enterprise.

Change can occur, but only when taxpayers begin to demand

more affordable and accessible infrastructures in the cities where

they work, live and play.

While you may encounter a lack of parking spaces during the

prime times of Monday to Friday from 8 a.m. to 3 p.m., there is

often an EXCESS of parking spots thereafter—a paradox which

is obviously good for you, but costly for the garage owner. We

recommend visiting downtown late afternoon and weekends

when the parking is more plentiful and economical. Go shop-

ping at 3 or 4 p.m. and have dinner afterwards!

What can you do you make your next parking adventure a

more pleasant experience?

As longtime members of the Executive Committee of Pittsburgh

Downtown Partnership (PDP), we have closely studied this situa-

tion for years. The PDP works together with residents, businesses

and civic organizations to foster economic vitality and improve

Downtown life. As proud ambassadors and conscientious advo-

cates of the City of Pittsburgh, our collective goal is to see that

everyone’s visit to our great city not only meets, but exceeds, their

needs and expectations…and that begins with parking.

So have hope, take note and arm yourself with these top four

insider secrets to parking karma in Pittsburgh. Then, don’t be

bashful; pass them on!

...the simple statement that “I’m going to Larrimor’s” at 3 PNC Plaza or MellonSquare garages will always elicit a knowingsmile from the parking attendant...


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ANDREW KOZUSKO LOOKS VERY MUCH AT HOME in his new

office at K&L Gates, although the space still feels like a

work in progress. On one shelf, the iconic British WWII

propaganda poster beseeches all who enter to “Keep Calm and

Carry On.” On another, a map of his beloved Nantucket that will

cover almost the entire wall. Both are still waiting to be hung.

But Kozusko has more pressing matters: namely, managing

K&L Gates’ new generic pharmaceutical practice. Although the

practice just launched in April, the growth of the generic drug

market has him already moving at top speed. “Generics is an

exciting practice area,” he explains. “It started off with the smaller

NOTHING GENERIC ABOUT THIS ATTORNEY (EXCEPT HIS CLIENTS)New K&L Gates partner Andrew Kozusko launches the firm’s generic drug practice—artfully. by Ann Trondle-Price

firms, but now big firms like ours are seeing that there’s as much

opportunity representing generics as there is with the big phar-

maceutical brands—maybe more.”

Formerly head of patent litigation for Mylan North America,

Kozusko brings an in-house perspective to his new employers

that he believes will help grow the practice. Plus, he believes

generics may be that rare recession-proof product. “Generics

are hot. A lot of states have mandatory substitution laws and

eventually they all will. These laws are favorable to generics and,

as the industry consolidates, investors are becoming very inter-

ested. If you’re in an acquisitive mood, generics may be a good

way to go.”

One of his biggest clients, Lupin, is a good example of the

solid generics companies he’s been seeing—well–managed,

growing and boasting phenomenal stock performance. “Gener-

ics products are also evolving into big pharma companies as

they launch their own brands. So while they made their name in

generics, they’re now competing with big pharma.” All good

news for the man whose job it is to build the K&L Gates pharma

portfolio. Spending time overseas, particularly in India where

many generics are headquartered, is one way he’s accomplish-

ing that.

“I love India,” he says with genuine feeling. “In particular, I

spend a lot of time in Mumbai, and while it has its own beautiful

culture, it still reminds me somewhat of England. It retains

that British feel, particularly in its hotels, where you can get

unparalleled service in a fabulous hotel for $300 a night.”

Kozusko’s delight for things well crafted and beautifully pre-

sented pops up often in conversation. His tailored blazer, pocket

square and designer shoes immediately give him away as a man

who cares about style. But this self-proclaimed “clothes hound”

is most passionate about food and wine. He’s also proud of

working his way onto some very exclusive mailing lists after

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waiting, in some cases, more than 10 years. “Marcassin and

Sine Qua Non are two wineries I worked very hard to crack,” he

says with a smile.

His appreciation of artisanship also extends to his collection of

Lionel trains, which number in the hundreds. “My 5-year-old son

Roman and I collect them,” he says. “Right now, we’re having a

layout built at home so we can run the trains all year round.” In

the past, Kozusko’s collections have also included collector cars,

although now he’s down to the M3 he currently drives.

“I had a pristine Porsche 911 that I traded for the M3.

I’m still looking for that next car,” he laughs.

As both an attorney with a focus on pharmaceuti-

cals and a collector with an eye for detail, one might

wonder how Kozusko developed such a left-brain/

right-brain orientation. “I’ve always been a somewhat

split personality,” he explains. “At Grove City College, I earned

degrees in both English and molecular biology.” (He’s currently

involved in the $80 million re-do of the campus’s scientific infra-

structure as a trustee of the college.) “But I still have that other

side, that love of art and beauty.”

Kozusko is also a donor to WQED-FM and the Pittsburgh

Symphony. “I truly believe that for a smaller city, we have a very

rich arts community,” he says. His one regret is that the film com-

munity isn’t more robust. “We don’t get a lot of the great films

that are being made today,” he laments. “We get the big block-

busters, but not the great indie and foreign films that other cities

do. It’s too bad.”

Today however, from K&L Gates downtown, Kozusko is

focused on raising the curtain on generics. His view on where he

wants to take the practice is clear, like the view out his window.

A thing of beauty, even. Which suits him to perfection.

“[Generics] started off with the smaller firms,but now big firms are seeing that there’s as much opportunity representing genericsas there is with the big pharmaceuticalbrands—maybe more.”


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Q:I haven’t lost weightbut my pants seem baggy.

What’s up with that?This season’s pant styles are narrowerthan they used to be: not tight butdefinitely more fitted (and no longerdown to the floor). For fall 2012, welove five-pocket pants in cottons,wools and wool blends. When itcomes to jeans, fit is all-important. Ifyour closet is full of droopy denim, letus show you how great you can lookin jeans that actually fit.

Q:If I buy only one item thisseason, what should it be?

We love refined soft sportcoats inwool blends and cashmeres (bothsolids and subtle patterns) as well asthe quintessential knit blazer. These

styles represent a new genre of sport-coat that blurs the boundary betweensportswear and tailored clothing.They can be dressed up with a tie orworn casually with jeans: comfort,class and cool, all in one item!

Q:My expensive topcoatis looking dated. Should

I have it altered?Probably not. There’s only so muchyou can change with alterations, andyesterday’s long billowy coats (top-coats and trenches) are totally OUTin 2012. So give them away to some-one in need and buy a new shorter,trimmer-fit overcoat or raincoat. Fromknee-length on up is the modern wayto wear outerwear this season.

Q:What footwear do I need for fall?

The wrong pair of shoes can instantlyruin an outfit, so don’t forget to con-sider your footwear as carefully asyour clothes. One must-have for fall2012 is a pair of slightly chunkyoxfords in suede or burnished leather,to add a bit of character. Thinkupdated wingtips that are substantialenough to wear with jeans and canalso lend an English sensibility to asuit. In addition, there are tons ofgreat boot options, from rugged con-temporary styles to beautiful pol-ished dress versions, that add instantpersonality to your look.

CANALI

32

FASHION TIPS FOR HIM

ASKFORUM

Q:With global warming, doI really need sweaters?

Although chunky sweaters arevery much in style, light and medi-um weights are also trending, andthese have little to do with theweather. A modern or retro-inspired cardigan, either button orzip-front, can often replace a jack-et or sportcoat. Today’s trimmed-down, fine gauge knits also workwell underneath sportcoats sincethey breathe comfortably—goodnews for guys who tend to run hot.Cashmeres, merinos and newblends in great colors mean lots ofstrong sweater options this season.

30 Ask Forum_For Him.qxp:LARR_ 7/13/12 3:19 PM Page 32

For leading in a world that has changed.For perfecting the art of listening.

For proactively responding to clients’ needs.For building strong relationships.

We applaud Lee Oleinick and his most significant accomplishment—winning clients’ trust.

Advice you can trust starts with a conversation.

We salute Lee Oleinick named to

Barron’s Top 1,000 Financial Advisors

Lee Oleinick Senior Vice President–Investments

412-665-9914 [email protected]

Walnut Wealth ManagementUBS Financial Services Inc.

5600 Walnut Street Pittsburgh, PA 15232 ubs.com/team/walnut

We will not rest

As a firm providing wealth management services to clients in the U.S., we offer both investment advisory services and brokerage accounts. Advisory services and brokerage services are separate and distinct, differ in material ways and are governed by different laws and separate contracts. It is important that clients understand the ways in which we conduct business and that they carefully read the agreements and disclosures that we provide to them about the products or services we offer. For more information clients should speak with their Financial Advisor or visit our website at ubs.com/guidetofees UBS Financial Services and its affiliates do not provide legal or tax advice. Clients should consult with their legal and tax advisors regarding their personal circumstances. ©UBS 2012. All rights reserved. UBS Financial Services Inc. is a subsidiary of UBS AG. Member SIPC. 1.32_Ad_7.5x9.75_OJ0613_OleL


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4th NIGHTCOMPLIMENTARY


DESSERT TASTING FOR A CAUSE

There has been no greater “touchdown moment” than what we witnessed at the recent DessertTasting for a Cause, hosted by Larrimor’s on April 16.Guests mingled with former Pitt Panthersteammates and NFL veterans Torrie Cox, Kris Wilson and Lousaka Polite, swayed to the smoothsounds of The Alton Merril Trio and savored a feast of desserts.The sweet evening benefitedthree foundations—The Cox MVPs Foundation, The Kris Wilson Foundation, and The PoliteWay Foundation—whose visionary efforts on behalf of at-risk youth and single mothers garnered countless high fives among our stylish gathering of loyal and appreciative fans.

Don’t miss out on exciting future events! Give your email address to your sales associate andwe’ll be certain to add you to our VIP invitation list.

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HELPING WOMEN HELPS THE WORLD

Giving back to the community is, and always has been, a proud Larrimor’s tradition. For more than 70years, we have celebrated our passion for Pittsburgh by showcasing those who share a commitmentto our city and our neighbors in need.

On May 31, Larrimor’s opened its own home to Bethlehem Haven’s Helping Women Helps the Worldlecture series—a distinct program that brings together dynamic women from around the region andsupports BH’s mission to provide a continuum of care for homeless women that leads toward self-suf-ficiency. Among a capacity crowd, Demetria Boccella (Utopia) moderated a distinguished panel of fash-ionable entrepreneurs including Susan Farber (Susan Farber Collections), Kiya Tomlin (Kiya TomlinDesigns), Kelly Simpson-Scupelli (Kelly Lane Design), Ava DeMarco (Littlearth) and Susan Gregg Kroger(ModCloth). These women not only share a mutual passion for fashion, but also a passionate desire tomake a difference in the world through their success.We applaud each woman for following her dream,and the tireless work of Bethlehem Haven for enabling so many others to reach that goal.

Don’t miss out on exciting future events! Give your email address to your sales associate and we’ll becertain to add you to our VIP invitation list.

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TRUNK SHOW • THURSDAY OCTOBER 11 • ONE PNC PLAZA


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fit

THE EVOLUTION

SLIMMINGDOWN

You might not have noticed muchdifference from one year to the next, butlook back five years and the change inmen’s suits is blatant! Gone are thebroad padded shoulders and loosebillowy trousers. No more wide lapels orpadded chests. Today’s suits are neithertight nor restrictive, but they skim thebody in a way that’s flattering to allphysiques. A new slimmer suit can makeyou look your best. Give it a try!

Shoulders: Narrower by about an inch, they are lesspadded and more natural than they once were.

Lapels: Narrow is more modern (but peak lapelsare fashion forward, said to have “attitude”).

Chest: Less padded than it used to be, since it’s nowmade with lighter-weight canvases and interlinings.

Button Stance: Lower, with two buttons more fashionable than three.

Trousers: Much slimmer than they were. Flat-frontsare dominant over pleats, but both are acceptableas long as the pant is not too billowy. Most makershave shortened the thigh and the rise measurementsby about an inch, the knee by a half inch.

Sleeves: Should hit at or slightly above thewrist to show some shirt cuff (about a quarterto a half inch). Sleeves below the wrist aremuch too long!

Jacket Length: At least an inch shorter than fiveyears ago (now 30 inches long on a size 40 regular).

Break: Modern trousers should have either no break or a slight break that hits mid-shin. The hem should just cover the top of the shoelaces. If you’re tripping on your trouser bottoms, they are clearly dated! Cuffs: Flat-front pants do not take cuffs; cuffs areoptional but not necessary with pleated trousers.

A TRIMMED-DOWNSUIT MEANS A

TRIMMER-LOOKINGYOU!

30 fit_The Evolution of a Suit.qxp:LARR_ 7/13/12 3:20 PM Page 42

!"#$#%$&''((() *+),+))(((-.-/(01

THREE RIVERS. TWO INCLINES. ONE REINVENTED CITY.

No wonder National Geographic Traveler named

Pittsburgh among the best places in the world to

experience in 2012.

At VisitPittsburgh, we are proud of these bragging rights. We

should be. After all, we’re the official tourism promotion agency

for Pittsburgh and Allegheny County—and our job is to market

Pittsburgh to the world. It’s a job that we love, especially when we

read positive coverage like this:

“On all counts, the Steel City’s transformation over the past

long concluded, this western Pennsylvania city changed jobs and

reclaimed major assets: a natural setting that rivals Lisbon

and San Francisco, a wealth of fine art and architecture, and a

quirky sense of humor,” writes the National Geographic Traveler.

Yes, indeed. Pittsburgh is included amongst the “Best in the

World” with the likes of Sonoma County, Calif., and London. Take

that Diamond Jubilee!

It is incredibly exciting to be among 20 destinations worldwide

selected for this ‘Best Of’ list. Those of us who reside here know

well that the city’s amazing amenities combine to create a

tremendously desirable place to live, work and visit.

And visitors are indeed coming to Pittsburgh. By the

millions. In fact, over 10 million overnight trips are taken in

the Greater Pittsburgh region every year. No wonder.

Pittsburgh is home to championship sports teams, world-

class attractions and enviable cultural amenities.

These visitors spend big money, too. Visitor spending in

Allegheny County amounted to $4.8 billion in 2010, according to

Tourism Economics Inc., a tourism consulting firm. This breaks

down to $1.5 billion spent on transportation, $993 million spent

on food and beverage, $894 million on recreation, $793 million

on retail and $611 million on lodging. So when you hear

VisitPittsburgh proclaiming that “Tourism Matters,” you know

what we’re talking about.

According to VisitPittsburgh surveys, nearly 70 percent of our

visitors stay for two or more nights, providing ample time to enjoy

renowned Pittsburgh attractions. And there are plenty of attrac-

tions to enjoy, because Pittsburgh is on the map when it comes

to arts and culture.

Our city’s rich legacy of community investment and involve-

ment from well-known industrial and corporate leaders has

built the foundation of the city's rich cultural environment.

Think Carnegie, Mellon, Heinz, Frick, Scaife, Benedum, Phipps,

Hillman and a host of others.

Visitors tell us they come to Pittsburgh specifically for the rich

cultural offerings like The Andy Warhol Museum, Duquesne

Incline, Phipps Conservatory and Botanical Gardens, and the

Pittsburgh Symphony Orchestra. According to our surveys, 35

percent of visitors come specifically because of our cultural

amenities.

We love promoting the world-class entertainment found in

Pittsburgh’s Cultural District, the 14-block area downtown that

dazzles with creative urban energy and charm. Thanks to the

Pittsburgh Cultural Trust, more than 2,300 performances are

offered each year in the Cultural District.

And, not surprisingly, visitors like to shop. In fact, nearly a

quarter of our visitors say they come specifically to shop. They

spend a lot of money, too, with 22 percent of our visitors indi-

cating that they have an income over $100,000. More than 13

PEOPLE REALLY DO VISIT PITTSBURGHB Y C R A I G D A V I S

P R E S I D E N T & C E O O F V I S I T P I T T S B U R G H

These visitors spend big money, too. Visitor spending in Allegheny Countyamounted to $4.8 billion in 2010...


percent of visitors report that they spend more than $500 while

shopping in the Pittsburgh area. Of course, quality shops such

as Larrimor’s make shopping experiences memorable.

Visitors appreciate history, as indicated by the 33 percent of

our visitors who say they are attracted to the region’s historical

landmarks. They love Pittsburgh’s storied past as showcased

inside one-of-kind attractions such as the Senator John Heinz

History Center, Frick Art & Historical Center and Nationality

Rooms at the University of Pittsburgh. Steel heritage tours

offered by Rivers of Steel take visitors back in time with hard hat

tours of the former U.S. Steel Homestead Works and trail rides

of Pittsburgh’s industrial heritage.

We also love promoting Pittsburgh as a great destination for

families, because we know that one-third of our visitors travel to

Pittsburgh with children. We say “Pittsburgh Is Kidsburgh,” as

we promote unparalleled family attractions, including the Pitts-

burgh Zoo & PPG Aquarium, National Aviary, Kennywood Park,

Sandcastle, Carnegie Science Center, Children’s Museum of

Pittsburgh and the Gateway Clipper fleet. It’s an easy sell.

With one state park, four major city parks and 22 miles of river-

front trails, it’s no surprise that nearly a third of our visitors say

they visit a city park or trail. It’s a perfect fit for VisitPittsburgh’s

“Get Healthy in Pittsburgh” campaign to encourage visitors to let

the city be their gym. And, thanks to the soon-to-be-complete

Great Allegheny Passage, which will connect Pittsburgh to

Washington, D.C., the workout just got a little more intense!

With everything that Pittsburgh has going for it, it’s no surprise

that visitors want to come back. In fact, 90 percent say they are

likely to visit again. And that’s good news for everyone.

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Hand Made in Chicago

Oxxford.indd 1Oxxford.indd 1 6/28/12 3:18 PM6/28/12 3:18 PM

Why choose CUSTOM?The benefi ts of a timeless sartorial tradition.

Individual styleand comfort.Unsurpassed fi t.Today, more andmore men are choosing custom.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY SERGIO KURHAJECSTYLING BY WENDY MCNETTHAIR & MAKEUP BY CLAIRE BAYLEY

Quite simply...The bestthing about custom is that it’s made justfor you.

The modern suit as we know it was born in mid-19th century England. A style of men’s clothing evolved that interwove infl uences from the landed gentry, the military, surgeons, sports and the Industrial Revolution. Ever since, gentlemen the world over have sought to perfect it.

A custom suit is not only the ultimate expression of a man’s individual taste and style; it also allows superior comfort and, of course, fi t. Custom clothing has increasingly grown in popularity in recent years. Our forebears would be envious of the fabric, model and detailing options available today!

CHANGE AS LITTLE AS YOU WANT...

“ Most men try custom for the vast choice of fabrics. Then they discover all the other wonderful subtleties.”menswear merchant Russ Mitchell

If you’re a40 Regularand you just want a slightly di! erent colored fabric.

model Jacket length, pant cut, button stance, lapel width, vents, pleats, pocket style, cu! s... these are some of the many style features you can customize. Some of the design decisions you will get to make and enjoy are:

CHANGE AS MUCH AS YOU WANT...

liningFrom solid to paisley and subtle to wacky, a custom lining gives you the op-portunity to add a splash of color or a surprise that can be your own little secret.

buttonsDown the front or at your wrists?

Or, if you’re di" cult to fi t and want a fl annel double-breasted suit with aubergine lining, patch pockets, horn buttons and two pairs of pants.

PANT

Undeniably, the greatest draw of custom is the extraordinary variety of choices available in fabric. While stores can only buy and hang a limited amount of ready-to-wear op-tions, the fabric selection in custom is in the thousands!

JACKET

new slimmer silhouette?

breasted

fabric varying weights and weaves, cashmeres, fl annels, linens, cottons and highly technical new performance fi bers. Add to that a dizzying array of patterns, pinstripes and color shades and you can create something that is truly your own.

Two or three, gold or silver, blue or bone? Buttons are another fun way to make a suit uniquely yours.

CUSTOM101:THE SHIRT

Our most popular custom item is the custom shirt. Try one and see why so many say that “once you go custom, you never go back.”

fabricContrary to what you may have heard, custom is not just for dress shirts. A couple of custom sport shirts are fabulous go-to pieces for your casual wardrobe as well.

Dressy or casual, the variety of colors and patterns can be a bit overwhelming, but you can cre-ate stunning signature looks that could never be achieved o! -the-

some fun!

collarWhether you prefer straight, spread, curve point, cutaway, band collar or any other style, you’ll be amazed how something as simple as a change in collar can customize your look.

cuffs Aside from the classic straight two-button cu! , there are many cu! options to choose from to give your shirt that certain je ne sais quoi, including the one-button round cu! ,

the one-button angle cu! and of course, the French cu! ... which also comes in several variations!

Custom is only for the di! cult to fi t.While custom tailoring ensures men of every body type the best possible fi t, custom is every bit as sought-after by men who can readily wear o! -the-rack clothing. They choose it for the signature look they can create as well as for the extensive fabric selection.

Custom takes forever.

tailor has taken and recordedall of your measurements, theyare stored just for you. Yousimply pick out your detailsand your suit should be ready

Custom is cost- prohibitive. With the rising popularity of custom clothing, designers are stocking larger libraries of fabric and details and are equipped with several made-to-measure models as starting points. This has brought down costs. You no longer have to be a CEO (or royalty) to wear it!

pockets Square pocket. Or no pocket. Do you like the front smooth or do

buttonsAn unexpected button

(or play) with.

monogramA monogram is the ultimate way to make a shirt uniquely yours. Simple yet elegant, pick a style that ranges from the traditional to the very modern. And choose from many placement options, too!

common MYTHS about custom:

you prefer a place for your glasses?

color, material or design is another great detail to work

52

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Thanks to the rapidly growing concept of made tomeasure, top fashion brands like Zegna, Isaia,Samuelsohn, Canali, Kiton and Brioni have slowlytransformed the once-bland process of buying a busi-ness suit (or sportcoat) into a very personal expressionof a man’s good taste and sense of style. Want a brokenpinstripe on a medium-blue super 150s wool, or a win-dowpane check in a soft brown cashmere/silk blend?Consider it done. Looking for that hard-to-find trim-cut, double-breasted jacket and want to customize itwith a lining in your wife’s favorite shade of lavender?It’s yours simply for the asking.

Just a few decades ago, the only way to have a suitmade your way was to visit a custom tailor, a processthat required you to dig deep into your wallet, bepatient enough to sit through multiple fittings, andthen wait the required six month production time. Butafter Ermenegildo Zegna became inspired by a conceptthe Japanese had developed in the early 1970s, he andother luxury suit makers found a way to speed up the

process and drastically lower the cost. Made to measure also allows stores to offer much

more product than what fits on the sales floor. “Whenmy father first started selling Zegna in Japan, he wasquite surprised to see the small amount of real estatethey had for retail,” explains Gildo Zegna, group chiefexecutive at the family-owned Ermenegildo Zegnabrand. “Back then our collection was very big, and hethought to himself, ‘How can I show it all?’ He foundthe Japanese had a clever system where they wouldshow all the fabric swatches, like in a showroom, andlet the customer pick the pattern and style. Within afew weeks the jacket was made to order for him. Myfather thought, ‘If the Japanese can make this work,why can’t we?’”

A hybrid form of custom suit making, made to meas-ure cuts out the more costly practice of creating a sepa-rate pattern for every customer from scratch (as abespoke tailor would do). Made-to-measure suits areproduced from a pre-existing pattern that is later

The Merits of MADE TO MEAAny man who’s bought an off-the-rack suit in thepast half century probably thinks that what you seeon the sales floor is what you get. If the fit, fabric orcolor you want isn’t in stock, you’re out of luck. Not so fast.

By William Kissel

_ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _

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53

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altered at the factory to meet your own physicalrequirements. “The difference in quality between cus-tom and made to measure is maybe none,” offers oneluxury suit maker. “The only difference is how you getthrough the process.” In the case of made to measure,you simply try on a jacket atthe store that’s close to yoursize and style preference, andthe suit maker adjusts thepattern for a more precise fit.

Along the way you choosethe fabric (from literallythousands of choices beyondthose offered ready-made atthe store) as well as thedetails—from working ornon-working button holes,center or side vents, and thenumber of pleats (or nopleats) on your trousers, tothe number, size and shape ofthe pockets and even thecolor of the interior lining.Need an extra interior pocketto house your cigarettes orcell phone? You’ve got it.Want mother of pearl or tita-nium buttons? They’re yours. Then, a mere four to sixweeks later, you have a suit that fits both your budget(only about 20 percent more than off-the-rack pric-

ing, depending on the fabric) and your personalsense of style.

In the past, only hard-to-fit men—those with slopingshoulders, curved backs, protruding abdomens orextremely large or small bodies—took advantage of

these suit making services. Todayit’s all about choice. “Superior fit iscertainly a big factor. But I’d saythe larger factor is men wanting tobe different and own somethingunique,” explains ArnoldSilverstone, creative director atSamuelsohn. “It’s a particularlygreat service for guys who aresuper fit and require more thanthe standard 6-inch drop found onoff-the-rack clothing,” he says. “Aguy might be a 42 Regular on topbut waist-wise he’s a 32, which is a10-inch drop. You won’t find thatcombination off the rack.”

There’s one more reason forchoosing made to measure:“Clothes are very expensive andmost men who spend $1,000 ormore on a suit want it to last fromfive to seven years,” explains one

suit maker. “If a guy is going to live with it that long,it better have all the details he loves. And the bestway to ensure that is to create it himself.”

FASTER THAN YOU’D THINK...Because made to measure cutsout the practice of creating aseparate pattern for everycustomer from scratch, suits areproduced from a pre-existingpattern that is later altered at thefactory to meet your ownphysical requirements.

SURE_ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _

LARR Fashion_Made to Measure.qxp:LARR_ 7/31/12 3:08 PM Page 53

412-561-4000 www.galleriapgh.comAnn TaylorAnthropologieAurora’s Fine JewelryBravo! Cucina ItalianaCachéCarmike Galleria CinemasChico’sCharming CharlieColdwater CreekCrabtree & EvelynDragonfire Japanese Steakhouse Footloose & Footloose Etc.

Godiva Chocolatier GymboreeGymboree Play & Music H. Baskin ClothierHoulihan’s Janie & JackJernigan’s Tobacco Village JezebelLarrimor’s Learning ExpressMark Pi’s China Gate Mitchell’s Fish Market Panera Bread

A Pea in a PodPottery Barn KidsRestoration HardwareSignaturesSoma IntimatesStarbucks CoffeeTalbots/Petites/Woman/ShoesToday’s Tiffany Lamp Co. Track ’n TrailTrombino Piano and OrganTutto BellaWilliams-Sonoma


THURSDAY & FRIDAY SEPTEMBER 13 & 14: ONE PNC PLAZASATURDAY SEPTEMBER 15: GALLERIA

with unsurpassed at tent ion to detai l .

Made in the U.S.A.

TRUNK SHOW

For that f inishing touch. Shoes in warm premium leather, hand-f inished


Days are getting shorter. Waves rougher. And that increasing nip in the air! As summer sun gives way to

autumn leaves, here are some ways to adapt... with style.

S E R G I O K U R H A J E C

C L A I R E B A Y L E Y

W E N D Y M C N E T T

P H O T O G R A P H Y

H A I R & M A K E U P

S T Y L I N G

A CHANGE OFSEASONS

A CHANGE OF

SEA SONS

Texture. Drawn from nature itself, fall’s !bers are a bit wild and roughly hewn: thick knits, coarse wools and cottons, heavy twills...

A CHANGE OF

SEA SONS

Layers. There’s no more stylish or practical way to stay warm than with a few versatile layering pieces. Pile on or peel o" as needed!

A CHANGE OF

SEA SONS

Warmth! Chunky cables, soft suedes and cashmeres, luxurious leathers, fur trim. And don’t forget a cozy scarf or two...

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f you’re looking for something light to eat, fewthings satisfy like sushi. With properties that pro-mote better memory and overall well-being, it’slong been one of the staples of the East. But overthe last two decades, Americans have increasinglywanted to make it for themselves. The good newsis, it’s not as hard as you may think—but it willrequire patience.

Wing Lam, owner and head chef of Zen Sushi, saysmaking sushi rolls at home comes down to two things:practice and creativity. “It’s like anything: keep at it and[the finished product] will continue to get better,” hesays, “…as long as you buy good rice!” Beyond thatessential ingredient is seaweed, which forms the outsideof the wrap, and then whatever you choose to put inside.It’s best to use rice that’s short and thin, mixed withvinegar, salt and sugar. To save time, Lam suggests buy-ing the pre-made rice mix at your local Asian market (ororder online at asianfoodgrocer.com).

Now for the seaweed. Ever wonder how chefs are ableto wrap it so perfectly around the rice? Using a bamboomat is their clever secret. Decide how thick you preferyour sushi rolls to be and choose your mat accordingly:the thicker the individual bamboo sticks that make upthe mat, the thicker the roll will be. Cut one-half to two-thirds of a sheet of your purchased seaweed, place it inthe center of the bamboo mat, and cover all except theouter edges of the seaweed with rice.

Now comes the creativity. You can put anything

inside a sushi roll. However, thereare certain standbys to consider. TheCalifornia roll is among the most popular,containing crabmeat, cucumber, avocado and carrot.The Philadelphia roll highlights salmon and creamcheese, sometimes along with avocado or cucumber.Or make up your own! Once you’ve decided, makesure to distribute the ingredients evenly over thewidth of the seaweed; otherwise, when you cut the roll,some pieces may not contain any filling. Then lift theedge of the bamboo mat and begin to push it forward,rolling the contents within. Slowly open the mat andslice your finished roll into individual sushi pieces.

Even once you’ve created your roll, the product stillisn’t finished. You’ll notice many sushi establishmentsdon’t just throw them on the plate; style is almost asmuch a part of sushi as substance. Try artfully driz-zling your chosen sauce over the plate in an eye-catching design, or lining up individual sushi piecesto form a pattern. In addition, consider the servingplates you use: smaller ones tend to accentuate thesushi’s own beauty.

You can even perfect your at-home sushi experienceright down to the music. Choose soft melodies toenhance the already relaxing atmosphere which goesalong with eating a light and healthful meal.

“Making sushi takes skill, but don’t be afraid to trydifferent things,” Lam emphasizes. “Some of the bestflavor combinations come from experimentation.” U

LTRAPRO

food

YOU DON’T HAVE TO EATOUT TO EAT SUSHI.

BY ERIC BUTTERMAN

STYLE IS ASMUCH A PARTOF SUSHI ASSUBSTANCE.

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bigburrito.com


My first on-screen crush was Natalie Wood inRebel Without a Cause. I was 16. Wood’s soulful eyesand short-sleeved angora sweaters were magical,though the film was already 30 years old. MarilynMonroe, on the other hand, wasn’t on my radar. Therewas the Elton John song, and every cartoon I grew upwith did a riff parodying the flying white skirt scene inThe Seven Year Itch. I knew she’d been in Playboy, andthat was kind of hot. But I was more interested in thecurrent crop of celebrities undressing in my dad’s mag-azines: Victoria Principal, Barbi Benton, Kim Basinger.

Monroe has outlasted and outshined them all,despite having died 50 years ago in August. Last yearwitnessed My Week With Marilyn (starring MichelleWilliams as Monroe), artist Seward Johnson’s 26-foot-tall cartoony homage, Forever Marilyn, in Chicago(relocated to Palm Springs in May), and a special bot-tling of the very popular Marilyn Merlot wine, celebrat-ing its own 25th Anniversary. The NBC show Smashchronicles the lives of theater actors, writers and pro-

ducers as they work to bring a Marilyn-themed musicalto Broadway. Monroe’s image also graced this year’sposter for the 65th anniversary of the Cannes FilmFestival and the cover of Vanity Fair, promoting therelease of previously unpublished nudes by photogra-pher Lawrence Schiller. The other blonde bombshellsof the 1950s—Jayne Mansfield, Mamie Van Doren,Sheree North and so on—haven’t enjoyed the sameposthumous career.

“When you look at photographs of her, she has thisability to express herself in so many ways,” says DonnaHolder, co-founder of Marilyn Wines. “I don’t thinkshe’s this dumb blonde at all. She was just kind of astraightforward person. A beautiful person.”

Why this hold on us in 2012? Contemporaries speakof an emotionally fragile, but highly canny, comicactress. In outtakes from the Laurence Olivier film ThePrince and the Showgirl (the setting for My Week WithMarilyn), we see an actress repeatedly missing her linesand cues, frustrating the prim Olivier. Yet we also seeher vulnerability, beauty and overwhelming desire to beappreciated. When she finally gets a scene right, shenails it. While watching these clips I finally understoodthe Marilyn Magic, and developed a new classic screencrush. You ache to protect her as much as to kiss her.

Norma Jeane Mortenson Baker, that spunky kid fromL.A., continues to attract new generations of fans. OnFacebook, a quote attributed to Ella Fitzgerald has beenmaking the rounds, in which the African-American jazzsinger credits Monroe with expanding Fitzgerald’s fanbase into the mainstream. Monroe’s own Facebook fanpage boasts 3.2 million fans, over half of which areyounger than 25. I recently joined Pinterest, a bulletinboard-style website used for organizing all the webstuff you want others to see. One of my “followers” onthe site, a young woman of maybe 25, had two boards(categories) I noticed immediately: “Old Hollywood”and “Movies I Love.” Guess whose platinum-haired vis-age graced both?

50 YEARS AFTER HER DEATH, SHE'S STILL TURNING HEADS. BY ROBERT HAYNES-PETERSON

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icons

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T H E U LT I M AT E T R O U S E R . . .A N D J E A N S

CAN A MAN!STROUSER OR JEAN,A NECESSARY BASICITEM OF CLOTHING,BE TRANSFORMED

INTO A“MUST HAVE?”

"HILTL THINKS SO

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