by Maísa Benatti

Analysis of the brand

Jean Paul Gaultier started his career at a very young age, 18. His first job

was with Pierre Cardin from whom he learnt that “everything was passible” in terms of

creation and materials.

Gaultier is known for his eclectic mixes, he has different inspirations each

collection and he normally has a very diverse design mix, but some of the traits he

repeats are: fetischitic clothes and corsets, navy inspiration, mix between female and

male styles, urban art, tribes and cultures. I´ve analysed his past 14 pret a porter

collections and I came up with my own conclusions about the kind of materials he

normally uses, he always choses a see-through fabric and in most of the collections I

was able to find leather and fur.

I´ve been to Jean Paul Gaultier exhibition and I could see his most important

works displayed at Grand Palais in Paris. He was the designer of Madonna´s famous

corsets that could show exactly his passion of mixing feminine and masculine style.

Analysis of previews collections

Elements present in almost all

collections: -Fur

-Feathers

-Emboridery

-Corsets

-Sctructured pieces

-Navy style

-See-through fabric

-Ajusted pices

Inspiration and focus of the brand

-Artist/singers´ costumes

-Punk inspiration

-Streetstyle

-Mixed references

-Cities inspired (London – Paris)

-Wild nature

-Indigenous people

- Mairmaids and fantasy creatures

Analysis of the brand

Accordig to Jean Paul Gaultier´s biography and Carreer book:

-“ Eclectic mixes are his trademark” (page 9).

- Gaultier was very ifluenced by the feminist movement and the gay movement, that´s

why we see a lot of mix genres in his clothing. (page 13).

- “ Even beyound haute cauture, one can detect in Gaultier´s work a sort of fetishitic or

kitsh archawology of feminine artifice and apparel.” ( Page 4).

- Gaultier´s method was: COLLECT – CONVERT – COMBINE ( Page 7).

- “ Pierre Cardin thaught Gaultier that everything was posible” specilly when it comes

to material. (pade 6).

Previews collections – favorite pieces

Spring 2015

Previews collections – favorite pieces

Spring 2014

Fall 2014

Previews collections – favorite pieces

Spring 2013

Fall 2013

Previews collections – favorite pieces

Spring 2012

Fall 2012

Grafitti inspired

Previews collections – favorite pieces

Spring 2011

Fall 2011

Corseterie

Sailor/navy

by Maísa Benatti

After studying about the brand, reading about the designer and analysing his

collections, I´ve decided I really needed to have corsets, navy inspired looks and

something related to street style in my collection. Another important trait was to try to

have some feminine silluettes. In JPG brand´s book, I could find a quote talking about

the colors he normally uses in his collections – mostly pastels, shades of sepia and rust

colors, so I´ve decided to chose colors that could keep his trait.

My “own” inspiration was Lisbon, Gaultier has already designed collections

about cities ( London and Paris) so I´ve decided that my trait in this collection was to

get inspired in the city that I live. The things that inspired me the most for this collection

was my neighborhood (Expo), Vasco da gama tower and Oriente station. I´m also very

fascinated with the street art in Lisbon, so I chose to have some grafitti inspiration in

my work as well. Next you can visually understand that by the two moodboards I´ve

created.

1 2

3 4

5

6

7

Elements of style

Color chart

Corvo

Ref:C001

Pantone: Process Black

Cimento

Ref:C002

Pantone: 416C

Marina

Ref:C003

Pantone: 283C

Torre

Ref:C004

Pantone: Trans. white

Galão

Ref:C005

Pantone: 463C

Telha

Ref:C006

Pantone: 463C

frisante

Ref:C007

Pantone: 135C

Dusk

Ref:C008

Pantone: 1485C

Material Chart - Fabric

Ref:T001

Berta

87% PES 23%PUE

$12,95

Ref:T002

Jabuti

90% PES 10% PUE

$6,95

Ref:T003

Strap

80%CV 20%PUE

$12,95

Ref:T004

Mousseline

100% PES

$4,95

Ref:T005

Vania

90%PES 10%PUE

$6,95

Ref:T006

Kondo

95%CO 5%PUE

$5,95

Ref:T007

Napa

100%PES

$9,95

Ref:T008

Voile

100% PES

$6,95

Ref:T009

Ceramica

100% VC

$9,95

Material Chart - Trims

Ref:M001

Ziper 20cm

$1,40

Ref:M002

Invisible Ziper 30cm

$1,80

Ref:M003

Beads

$3,00 Pack

Ref:M004

Fins

$3,00m

Ref:M005

Eyelets

$0,50 each (placed)

Ref:M006

Wadding

$3,95

Ref:M007

Leather straps

$1,20m

Ref:M008

Hook

$1,10

Ref:M009

Ribbon

$0,90m

Ref:M010

Lint

$4,00 pack

Collection Chart

Collection Chart

* See complete technical information on page 41

* See complete technical information on page 42

* See complete technical information on page 43

Chosen pieces to be developed

Technical information – piece 1

Technical information – piece 2

Technical information – piece 3

Testing ideas for the grafitti print

Chosen one

Pattern making and material testing

Pattern making and material testing

Price tags and textile tags

Future improvements – piece 1

Future improvements – piece 2

Future improvements – piece 3

References: