Motorcycle TourM

agazineMotorcycles, Travel & Adventure

of

2011

BestThe

January 2012

http://www.nolan-usa.com

http://www.motorcycleshows.com

Brian Rathjen • Shira Kamil ~ PublishersContributors: Mark Byers, Pamela Collins, Jeffrey Harth, Bill Heald, George Stritter, Dr. Seymour O’Life

BACKROADS • POB 317, Branchville NJ 07826Phone 973.948.4176 • Fax 973.948.0823 • email editor@backroadsusa.com • web www.backroadsusa.com

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BACKROADS (ISSN 1087-2088) is published monthly by BACKROADS™, Inc. 2012. All rights reserved. BACKROADS™ may not be reproduced in any manner without specific writtenconsent from the publisher. BACKROADS™ welcomes and encourages submissions (text and photos) and suggestions. Include phone number with submissions. BACKROADS™ willonly return material with enclosed sufficient postage. The written articles and opinions printed in BACKROADS™ are not necessarily those of the publisher and should not be con-sidered an endorsement. The Rip & Rides® published are ridden on the sole responsibilty of the rider. BACKROADS™ is not responsible for the conditions of the public roadwaystraversed. Please respect the environment, read your owner’s manual and wear proper protective gear and helmet. Ride within your limits, not over them.

Motorcycles, Travel & Adventure

MONTHLY COLUMNSFREE WHEELIN’.................................................................................4

WHATCHATHINKIN’..........................................................................6

POSTCARDS FROM THE HEDGE .................................................8

ON THE MARK ..................................................................................9

BACKLASH .......................................................................................10

THOUGHTS FROM THE ROAD....................................................11

INDUSTRY INFOBITES...................................................................12

BIG CITY GETAWAY........................................................................14

MYSTERIOUS AMERICA ...............................................................17

GREAT ALL AMERICAN DINER RUN.........................................18

WE’RE OUTTA HERE .....................................................................20

WELCOME TO THE JUNGLE.......................................................40

UPCOMING EVENTS CALENDAR ..............................................46

MOTORCYCLE MARKETPLACE...................................................47

FEATURESBEST OF BACKROADS 2011........................................................22

BEST OF BACKROADS RIP & RIDES..................................44

BACKROADS FALL FIESTA 2011 ................................................30

REVOLUTIONARIES........................................................................37

GREAT EXPLORATIONS ................................................................50

PRODUCT REVIEWSBOOSTER PLUG ..............................................................................13

W H A T ’ S I N S I D E

http://www.olympiamotosports.com

One Percenters

There has been a lot said about the 1% in our

society.

That they are above the law and care little for

others and only look out for themselves.

Now these days the Occupy crowd would like you to think filthy rich folk

make up the 1%, but I think there might be another 1% group, the real 1%

group that might have some comments on that.

I was on FaceBook one day and saw

a posting from a friend from my old

neighborhood, Tara, about the televi-

sion show Sons of Anarchy.

In her words “Sons of Anarchy

show. On FX on Tues at 10 pm. Best

show ever made. Its in its 4th season!”

I think she likes it.

I have watched it once or twice and

basically it is the Sopranos on bikes.

Just not my thing. I like my shows

based on reality – like Ancient Aliens.

But, it seems to me once Hollywood has a winner they just regurgitate it

ad nauseum. But, Tara likes it so who am I to judge?

At least this time New Jersey is not taking it on the chin.

Still, when most of the non-riding public think of bikers they most often

think of the stereotypical leather clad men with shaggy beards, covered in

road dust riding around the country wreaking havoc and getting into barroom

brawls. The truth is that most bikers are not rowdy trouble-makers and are

in fact honest, law-abiding, hard working people.

We know that because that is all of us.

But there are still the “others.” That small numbers of bikers who refer to

themselves as “1%ers”.

“One percenter” motorcycle gangs have been given this label as it is be-

lieved that within motorcycle club circles, 99% of all bikers live within the

boundaries of the law.

Heck, that 99%; we even pay our “fair share” of taxes.

Then there is the other 1% who rejects Main Street society and choose to

live outside of the law, sometimes even engaging in questionable activity.

When I was growing up as a young rider these were the real 1%ers.

I have always tried not to take sides or make political statement in these

pages (he wrote with tongue

firmly placed in cheek) but I feel

that somebody has to speak out

for all the outlaw clubs that have

patiently sat on the sidelines

while these “Occupiers” sully

their status and actually equate

the 1% moniker with ultra fat-cat

bloated corporations.

And, furthermore…hold on…

“What, Shira…? The Angels™

are incorporated?” Really….? Trade marked too. Gee…. Okay then…”

Glad I could go back and fix that.

Well, still it would be interesting to see what would happen to these “Oc-

cupiers” if they tried to occupy East 3rd Street in Manhattan to protest that

block’s 1%ers.

I do not think the Angels™ (please guys notice the Trade Mark) would be

as easy going as Mayor Bloomberg.

Much like the big corporations the Zuccotti Park crowd has been protesting

these guys have had good times and bad times.

And, I do think it has to be noted that we get a number of flyers for and

about charitable events that the Angels™ and other 1%ers have put on for

various and worthy charities. Much like the $1,000,000,000 + dollars donated

by American corporations over the years for grants, charities and endow-

ments - starting all the way back with the generosity of Andrew Carnegie

more than a century ago.

We have not received any from Zuccotti Park. At least not yet. Waiting…

(Continued on Page 9)

F R E E W H E E L I N ’

BRIAN RATHJEN

Page 4 JANUARY 2012 • BACKROADS

BACKROADS • JANUARY 2012 Page 5

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Cycle Sports

reasOns tO be cheerful – Part 3

Cheddar cheese and pickle,a Vincent motorcycle, slap and tickle…18 wheeler Scammels, dominca camels,all other mammals plus equal votes… Ian Dury & the Blockheads

Well, perhaps Ian has his own reasons to be cheerful, as disjointed as they

may be. This time of year we should all have reasons to be cheerful. This

particular year the weather certainly has contributed to my cheerful disposi-

tion. Despite the Halloween snowstorm (I’ll take snow any time it’s followed

by 60 degree days to get rid of it), November turned out to be a gift from

Mother Nature. I hope everyone took advantage and stole some ‘sick days’

to enjoy some late season riding.

One can only hope that it will continue. I’m guessing that the dealerships

had some boost to business and traffic, and I’m sure that our Moto-Inn eatery

members saw a great influx of late Autumn motorcyclists at their tables. The

Polar Bear runs had some great turnouts so far. We were able to get to one of

their new destination at the Barnsider Tavern in Sugar Loaf, NY (a Moto-

Inn participant as well). Although we arrived after the initial rush, which

numbered in the hundreds, there were still a good many bikes parked and

folks meandering through the quaint village.

And could we have asked for a better Thanksgiving weekend? Crisp, blue

skies and temps touching into the 60s had everyone rushing through their

turkey sammiches to sneak away from visiting family members. Again, a

great turnout for the Polar Bear run, as well as dealerships holding open

house or holiday gatherings.

As I write this, the frost has certainly taken hold of the pumpkins that are

left in the fields. My computer told me it was 25° when I woke it up this

morning, yet the deceptive afternoon sun is brightly shining through the of-

fice window. It’s only a couple of weeks until this sun will make its turn and

the days will grow longer, every so slowly. Yes, the dark days of winter lay

ahead, but according to the weather guru Joe Bastardi this winter is supposed

to be milder than the last couple of years. Who trusts a weatherman, you say.

Joe is not just a weatherman, he’s a meteorologist, a man of science, if you

will. He’s been right too many times not to take him seriously. I like to be

optimistic, so until there’s a bombardment of ice and snow, I’m going with

his predictions.

Another reason for me to be cheerful is my newly tuned BMW. After being

so rudely sideswiped by the inattentive woman coming up my road, I was

feeling a little ‘squishy’ on the bike. That didn’t stop me from putting several

thousand miles on it afterwards, zooming towards its scheduled maintenance

appointment. Just like the human body, it was showing signs of fatigue and

needed a little TLC. The good folks at Cross Country BMW took good care

of it, doing all necessary service and changing the leaky water pump as well

as the ill front brake rotor. Riding the bike back from Metuchen on that beau-

tiful mid-60° day, I felt like I had just picked up a brand new motorcycle.

Smiles filled my helmet and I didn’t want the ride to end that day.

With this issue, Backroads heads into its 18th year, and that’s a huge reason

to be cheerful. When Brian and I first started this magazine, we had no idea

where we were headed. We knew what we wanted for it and for those who

read it and that was to be a great travel tool to get riders out on the road. It

has been a vehicle for us, carrying us to places far and near so that we may

bring those places closer to you via our words and pictures and, hopefully,

inspire you to your own adventures and discoveries. It has brought us in touch

with some wonderful people, many of whom we are happy and privileged to

now call friends. We have developed a terrific advertising family who have

supported our growth and, without whom we would not be who we are today.

We certainly hope that you return that support and remember, ride globally

but shop locally.

Brian and I look forward to many more years of riding and discoveries and

hope that you will continue to follow along with us, either vicariously

through print or online, or on one of our rallies or rides. May you always

have reasons to be cheerful and we look forward to seeing you on the road.

Have a most happy, healthy and prosperous New Year.

W H ATC H AT H I N K I N ’

SHIRA KAMIL

Page 6 JANUARY 2012 • BACKROADS

http://www.motorcycledryer.com

the eyes Of the DO’Oh!

I’d love to start this latest exposé of Truthiness

(© Stephen Colbert Inc.) talking about how cold

it is, but in fact as I write this it’s 7 PM and 62

degrees out. With the autumn we’ve just had, continuing weather strangeness

should surprise exactly no one but it does seem a trifle odd to me. What’s

next? Tumbleweeds? I shouldn’t even kid about it.

Shortly after I wrote the above observation a storm ensued, and it got a lit-

tle colder and so things are now more normal. In other ways we had a normal

autumn, too, in that the riding was great but there were a lot of deer milling

about (and I’m sure that’s true for any of you living where there’s some type

of forest nearby). Deer and moving vehicles have been known to interact in

a very unpleasant fashion, and the four-legged beasts have a bizarre habit of

running into motorcycles and other mobile machines. If you’ve never per-

sonally hit a deer on a bike I’m willing to wager you know someone who

has, and the results can range from horrific in the worse-case scenarios to (at

the least) very unpleasant even when no lives are lost.

The stories I’ve heard over the years have spanned an incredible range of

experiences, but there is one basic scenario that seems to be common. This

involves probably about half to two-thirds of the cases, and has to do with

the incredible ability deer have to literally nail you from out of nowhere. “I

never even saw it” is not only a common statement, but one that is absolutely

true in that the crazed mammals can approach at high speeds from the out-

skirts of your usual field of view. As a motorcyclist, one of the critical things

I’ve learned in decades of riding is the importance of sharpening the art of

seeing what’s around you. It’s something we have to constantly focus on (lit-

erally), and in today’s world there are distractions that make this more im-

portant than ever. So leaving out the deer encounters that are truly impossible

to see before they happen, what about the other cases?

The Deer Menace is on my mind because of an encounter with one of the

critters the other day that really brought home how this whole art of seeing

things has to be something you think about the moment you start your engine.

With the latest audio/visual technology in cars and to a lesser extent on mo-

torcycles, there are more and more things vying for your attention. All this

messes with your ability to see, and if you think “hands free” technology

eliminates this problem you’re fooling yourself. You can be staring right at

that car that’s about to turn left in front of you, just like the driver of said ve-

hicle is staring right at you. But if both of you are engaged in a hands-free

phone conversation on your cell, and in your case your teenage daughter just

told you she’s pregnant with Mick Jagger’s child, your ability to actually see

what you’re looking at may be dramatically compromised. You can’t keep

your eyes moving and take in all the information you need to in heavy traffic

if a parcel of your attention is being occupied elsewhere, even if these activ-

ities don’t require your eyes. That may not make sense initially, but it’s ab-

solutely the case.

So you can “see” how this can be a problem under nor-

mal riding circumstances, and when you throw in the

wild, stealthy and totally unpredictable nature of deer

showing up unexpectedly when you’re riding through a

forested area you have a real conundrum. I’ve been lucky

in that the only time (as of this writing) I’ve ever hit a

deer was when I was reviewing the first generation Toy-

ota Highlander Hybrid, and was, I’m told, the first person

in the world to collide with such a beast with that partic-

ular vehicle. I was unharmed. But I’ve had my share of

close calls on a bike, and here’s a really bizarre situation

that happened a few days ago. It was dusk, which of

course can be prime time for deer activity. There was still

a lot of light, but you could clearly see the beams of head-

lights on the pavement ahead. I was coming to a stop at

an intersection between two fairly isolated roads, and on

my right was what I initially thought was a stuffed doe

that someone had placed on the side of the road for some

odd reason. But this was no L.L. Bean store window dis-

play. No, it was the real thing, and I never saw it until I

was almost close enough to touch it. There wasn’t even

the typical reflection of the eyes in the headlights. She

stood there like a statue as I rolled slowly past, and it was

kind of an odd feeling. I’m always very appreciative

when I meet a deer in a way that doesn’t involve a colli-

sion, but this spooked me nevertheless as I should have

seen her sooner, somehow.

So why didn’t I detect this restive ruminant? I think

more than anything else I wasn’t looking for it. I was

nearly home, and wasn’t thinking about the riding mo-

ment but about other things instead. My eyes were wide

open and looking in the right direction, but the deer was

all but invisible to me even though there was still enough

light to see her against the background if I had really been

on my game. Suffice it to say, this little encounter made

quite an impression on me and now I have a new mental

drill I go through before I ride off. Turn the key, push the

starter, the bike wakes up. It’s time for the rider to open

his/her eyes too, and use the suckers to the fullest. Al-

ways. So wake the bike, wake the rider. Don’t let distrac-

tions put blinders on your best safety feature, for this can

save you (and woodland creatures) from a world of hurt.

Sometimes such accidents are unavoidable, but when

they are, it’s up to you. See what I mean?

P O S T C A R D SF R O M T H E H E D G E

BILL HEALD

Page 8 JANUARY 2012 • BACKROADS

cOmmutatiOin

I’m warped. I’m warped worse than a set of brake rotors off a ’73 Suzuki

Water Buffalo, but I see beauty in strange places and situations. Today’s

masterpiece was a guy in a fluorescent green motorcycle jacket, with a

matching Aerostich bag thrown over his shoulder, commuting to work on a

stunning red Ducati 900 Supersport. The combination of red and lime to-

gether would normally be as wretched as a pair of plaid golf slacks, but today

they seemed sublime.

Why? Well, Monday was a disappointment: winter arrived like a drunken

uncle, spewing cold, moist spittle everywhere. It was the kind of day that, if

you rode at all, begged for a ratbike or a weathered Ural sidecar rig and a

heated jacket. The rest of the week wasn’t faring much better as the front

staggered through. This morning it was 36 degrees, cloudy, and blustery, but

this thoughtful guy brought his pristine Duc 900SS to work as transportation

and in so doing, kicked most people’s paradigm of “commuter bike” right in

the pills. I know it did mine.

I’ve been known to ride a dual-sport or naked bike to work on days when

the wind in my face was a welcome addition. When winter comes, however,

I normally cower behind at least a half-fairing and more often, a full one. In

my old age, I’ve become enamored of commuting on a

BMW RT with two delightful switches: one for the

hand toasters and another for the bun warmer. It makes

me admire and applaud the commuters who have nei-

ther heat nor shelter, but ride anyway.

The Duc dude isn’t the only example: it was pouring

Tuesday, but the guy across the street had a tasty red

VFR with a Givi topcase parked next to the building.

Normally, there’s a fellow who rides a green BMW

Rockster to another office in all kinds of weather and

his only concession to the elements is a small wind-

screen. My friend Paul showed up one frigid day on a

café’d BMW airhead, his body shorn in leather that

would have been at home at the Ace, circa 1969. One

of our Usual Suspects will show up at the hangar on his

tarted-up Monster 900 any sort of weather and there’s

a daily commuter who rides a Kwack ER-6 in every-

thing but pure ice.

The day-glo dude on the Duc made me reflect on my-

self and all these fellow motorcyclists and realize that

there really is no such thing as a “commuter bike.” Any

machine, regardless of size or configuration, has the ca-

pacity to carry our butts where we need to go as long

as we’re properly attired and equipped and have the in-

clination to ride. There are situations, like when the

roads are mired in ice, when riding is ill-advised, but

most of the time in the Mid-Atlantic, motivation is the

sole limitation to commuting by motorcycle.

Our weather can be capricious, snowing enough to

make riding hazardous, but never enough to make it

worthwhile to have something with handlebars as fun

as a snowmobile. Sure, it gets dark early and our four-

wheeled and four-legged friends become more of a haz-

ard than usual, but it’s nothing one of those glowing

green jackets and a nice set of driving lights won’t cure.

The Rockster guy at work has both, essentially making

him visible from space.

There’s one other aspect to the commuter thing:

cleanliness is not next to Godliness. People who run

ads for used bikes that say “never ridden in the rain”

(and are proud of it) do not have the commuting gene.

A sunny morning is no guarantee of a delightful after-

noon, as fronts go through here like celebrities go

through spouses. Unless you’re like my buddy, “Q-

tip,” detailing is just going to have to wait until the

weekend because the rest of the week it’ll be too cold

to clean.

Inspiration comes in strange forms and today’s was a ballsy guy in a gaudy

outfit on a beautiful bike. I’m cowed and I stand in admiration. I have all the

tools I need to commute any time I want and I’ve gotten soft. At the first hint

of winter precipitation, I’ve yielded to the cloying comforts of a climate-con-

trolled cabin. My machines sit idle, plugged into electronic intravenous lines.

I came home tonight, took a good look at them in the garage, and made them

(and myself) a promise: tomorrow, come hell or high water, I’m gonna ride.

O N T H E M A R K

MARK BYERS

BACKROADS • JANUARY 2012 Page 9

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free Wheelin’ (Continued from Page 4)

Just saying.

I wonder how many of the rest of us 99%ers are being mis-represented by

the Zuccotti Park crowd. I bet about 98.9%.

Sorry I would protest but I am too busy doing…oh yeah – work.

And, with all this even-handedness and fairness - how about helping out

folks so much less fortunate than you.

You see unlike many of the real 1%, or 98.9% for that matter, it is possible

that you have not done much in your life but complain.

I feel for you.

But, don’t go stealing the 1% status, please. I haven’t seen such disrespect

since these kids from South Park went after loud pipes.

Maybe you should go back to Starbucks and pull out your iPad (God bless

Steve Jobs) and watch Sons of Anarchy on Tuesday night on Fox – my friend

Tara says it is the best show ever made.

November 18, 1967

Exactly 44 years ago, to the minute- I

was riding a new R60/2 BMW from Mu-

nich to Lausanne, Switzerland. Mother

Nature delivered rain, sleet and then

snow to accompany me. We managed.

Today we took a ride together on a

cold but sunlit day with a few differ-

ences. Giove Pluvio, (The Rain God) ran

as well as it did on day one. It has not

needed replacement parts during its life-

time (unlike its owner) and today, even

at 32 degrees, it started on first kick. We

celebrated this evening with a martini,

garlic stuffed olives, (its a religious

thing).

The motor whispered to me that after

years in Switzerland, Italy and the USA and now back in Switzerland that in

spite of those words of Thomas Wolfe, you CAN GO HOME AGAIN.

Tout de bon (all the best)

Norm Smith

Wow, Norm - Exactly 44 years ago, to the

minute I was in Miss Sullivan’s class at Corpus

Christi – Woodside, Queens.

I remember it well.

Brian & Shira,

Dear Backroads,

Enjoyed the November issue as I always do.

Your High Alpine Adventure gave food for

thought about doing something similar some

day.

What caused me to write, however, was the

short piece by Jeff Bahr. It was well written and

balanced. It caused me to think. That’s what Jeff

intended so he clearly accomplished his pur-

pose. Please pass on my kudos.

Last, I will bore you once again with my two

big wish list items! (Sorry, but I won’t give up.)

First, it would be helpful for the geographically-challenged if your articles

began or ended with a tiny map indicating where the ride or destination is. It

would help readers orient better.

Second, please don’t print text on photos. It’s difficult for older eyes to

read. I must note that using larger print and restricting

it to a solid background like the lead page of the Alpine

article (page 23) is a pretty good compromise.

Thanks! Stay safe!

Larry,

Thanks. I have sent your email to Jeff - I am sure he

will appreciate it.

We are always looking for mapping programs to do

this. Not much out there. You would think there would

be more. We have had specific artists do them occasion-

ally, but it is cost prohibitive.

We are keeping it in mind.

Also - Shira hears you - we’ll do our best to keep text

and pictures more easily read.

We will send you Backroads reading glasses as I have

a hard time sometime as well!

Brian & Shira-

I got a kick out of the Caboose Motel you found and

wrote up in the December issue. Truly unique! While

lazily typing in the name into Google rather than the

actual URL into my browser, Google suggested another

caboose motel, this one in PA. Are you aware of this

one? Did I miss a write up in Backroads or is this going

to be an article next year? See link below...

www.redcaboosemotel.com/lodging.htm

Dan Morrow

I am an avid reader of Backroads and spend a lot time

going through the pages each month. I enjoy every

page of it.... even the advertisements!

(Those not advertising take note!)

I live in NY and have traveled many of the areas that

you write about and enjoy “following in your foot-

steps”.

A few weeks back I took delivery of my new bike, a

BMW K1600GTL. Coming from mostly Harleys, I

have never used a GPS with any other bikes that I have

had in the past so the experience of being able to down-

load the GPS files is a fantastic new feature for me. I

was able to download one or two but it seems like the

download process from your website is very

difficult. Instead of the actual files, it keeps trying to

download a ton of misc. software that I really don’t

need or even want. Is there any way to get the down-

loads without all the other crap?

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Page 10 JANUARY 2012 • BACKROADS

BACKLASH Letters to the Editor

(Page 12)

misleaDing articles?

I was reading the October issue, specifically the Backlash column. The re-

sponse to a note from Don Riggs caught my attention. Don was admonishing

Backroads for what must have been negative opinions published regarding

the choices of riders who wear “a vest, chaps and a half helmet”. The re-

sponse given was “To get a more graphic look at what can happen to those

who ride around in summer leisure wear please log onto this: www.rock-

thegear.org/index.php?/inspiration/ “. Of course as a curious rider I had to

look.

After looking, I think it would be fair to say that the response should have

read “To get a more graphic look at what can happen to those who ride around

in AN OVERSIZED HELMET, CAPRI JEANS, TENNIS SHOES AND A

SWEATSHIRT OVER A BIKINI, ALL WHILE RIDING ON THE BACK

OF A MOTORCYCLE DRIVEN BY A BOYFRIEND WHO OBVIOUSLY

HAD ZERO CONCERN FOR THE WELL-BEING OR SAFETY OF HIS

GIRLFRIEND....”.

The response also failed to mention that the rider, after being sucked off

of the bike by the wind, rolled over 500 feet. It is blatantly obvious by those

two facts stated in the website article, that the motorcycle Brittany was riding

on was going at an exorbitant speed, most likely well in excess of 100MPH.

Seriously, she was parachuting above the seat long enough to make a con-

scious note of it before actually flying off of the seat....

How fast must one be going in order to make that happen? I hardly think

that this is an example of TYPICAL results in a motorcycle accident. I have

been riding for a long time, as have the people that I ride with. My wife is a

very responsible and careful rider, who can offer a more “real-life” example

of a motorcycle accident and its results. See, she was hit from the side by a

deer on her way to work one fall morning. She never saw the deer, as it

rammed her from the side. Her apparel: a leather police jacket, a 3/4 helmet

with a snap-on face shield, jeans, gloves, sneakers. After being struck, she

went down on her side, and slid/rolled approximately 80 feet. Every point of

impact can still be seen on the apparel she was wearing. She walked away

with a small scrape on her knee where there was a small hole torn in her

jeans, and some bumps and bruises that, in all reality, nothing short of a suit

of armor would have prevented. This I can attribute to the fact that a) she

was riding in a responsible fashion at a normal rate of speed (at the speed

limit - she remembers looking just prior to impact), and b) she is in excellent

physical condition. I’m sure the fact that she was riding a cruiser in a feet-

forward posture as opposed to a standard or race-style bike also played into

the outcome of her crash. I believe that to generalize motorcycle accidents

and the outcome in the fashion of the Backlash response is wrong. To imply

that Brittany’s fate awaits every rider who wears less than a full body suit

and full helmet, regardless of riding habits and awareness of surroundings is

irresponsible. The very idea of “dressing for the fall” is not even endorsed

by the NJMSF anymore, as I found out in the recent Experienced Rider

course that I participated in. As stated by the instructor, (I’m paraphrasing

but very close to direct-quoting) it is more important to dress for the ride in

order to more comfortably maneuver the motorcycle, and thereby take further

action to prevent a crash in the first place. Does this suggest we should feel

comfortable riding in Brittany’s ill-chosen apparel the day of her accident?

Of course not! It makes me cringe every time I see someone riding in shorts,

or flip-flops.... But I am also not going to dress to the point that I can barely

turn my head to look both ways, or cover myself with something that does

not allow me to be cool enough to think straight. I doubt that the DOT, and

in some cases, the Snell Foundation, would certify some half and 3/4 helmets

as being safe for their intended use if they were in fact completely useless

(and I’m not talking about novelty helmets here...). I realize the potential

ramifications of this choice, but I believe I make up for it in awareness of

my surroundings at all times and more mature throttle control.

The point of the matter is - please, give ALL of the facts of the matter when

expressing an opinion, not just enough facts to support your opinion.

(Continued on next page)

BACKROADS • JANUARY 2012 Page 11

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George,

There is no ‘typical accident’ - the Law of Chaos won’t allow for it. Yes,

Brittany was going at a high rate of speed – the website says that from the

beginning - and certainly her injuries were extreme. Also are her efforts to

educate riders in the use of proper gear all the time – it has become a crusade

for her.

Although higher speeds can and will add to trauma, any low speed crash

can be equally harsh on the body. Take for example the shop owner in Day-

tona that went down in his parking lot delivering a motorcycle to a customer

and was killed.

Crazy horrible things happen to all riders. We just stress to be as prepared

as best you can be. A tee-shirt, vest and 1/2 helmet is not prepared.

You say “I’m sure the fact that she was riding a cruiser in a feet-forward

posture as opposed to a standard or race-style bike also played into the out-

come of her crash.” Do you really believe a crash victim’s outcome is effected

if they are riding a cruiser compared to a Gold Wing or BMW GS? I am

afraid the Gods of Mayhem care little for what anyone is riding.

Both Shira and I are happy your wife is okay, but Backroads has always

been about places to go and things to do with your bike and we have always

stressed proper riding gear - which your wife was wearing, except for the

jeans and sneakers that can disappear in flash – she was fortunate.

Brian Rathjen - editor

bacKlash (Continued from page 10)

In case you were interested in some feed back on the K1600GTL, it is un-

believably awesome! I’ve had over 20 bikes since I was a kid ranging from

Hondas, Kawasakis, and Harley Davidsons, and this bike blows all of them

away. It is not as comfortable as the Harley was but you can’t compare the

engine, brakes, and technology to the others. I am 45 years old and I feel

like I’m back in my 20’s when I ride this bike! Enough said!

Once again, I would like to express my appreciation for all your work on

the magazine. I have recommended it to many friends who subscribed after

reading it.

Happy Thanksgiving and I hope to see you on the road!

Ken Vanderoef

Ken,

Since we see the sendspace site as a subscriber, we weren’t aware of the

confusing download process. It seems if you go to the very small type that

says ‘Click here to start download from sendspace’ you’ll only get the GPS

file download.

This is coming from an Apple workspace, so I’m not sure if it applies to

PC. If not, you’ll need to get rid of your current computer and change your

life with a Mac.

Enjoy your new bike and thanks for the kind words.

Dear Editors,

I loved your article where you mentioned Corning. I now work with

glass.... (Waterford crystal and stuff like that, not windows...) I’m down in

McLean Virginia right now working at an antique show repairing glass, and

was trying to put together a surprise for the girlfriend. I wanted to take her to

Corning, and stay at the Inn you guys mentioned, but don’t have a copy of

your mag with me, and couldn’t find the Inn online.

What was the name of it again?

Thanks Brian.

Wade,

The Inn at the Gaffer Grille. www.innatthegaffergrille.com Great rooms...

Page 12 JANUARY 2012 • BACKROADS

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Most machines these days run with fuel injection and the idea that leaner

is greener. This thought occasionally causes fuel mixture problems, bad throt-

tle response, poor idling among other shoddy tendencies.

Some of these things go by unnoticed as we get used to them and just as-

sume that is the way the bike is supposed to be.

As time goes on these symptoms can get worse.

Think of it like your eyesight that may get worse

as time goes on but you just don’t notice it.

If there was an easy and cost effective

way to remedy this situation would

you not go for it?

I know I would and now have

for my BMW R1200GS.

The Booster Plug is the cre-

ation of Jens Lyck and utilizes the

stock connections to make instal-

lation of the Booster Plug easy

and spliceless.

Basically the Booster Plug utilizes

and processes readings from the original Air Intake Tem-

perature sensor and its external sensor that provides ambi-

ent air temperature data along with its internal resistor

data and it is this output that is sent to the Fuel Injection

Control Unit.

I know this sounds like too much Star Trek talk; why

not just run the data as a Tachyon Pulse through the

Forward Phaser Array?

Let’s bring this down to Earth, hmmm?

Simply put, the Booster Plug makes the Fuel Injec-

tion Engine Control Unit think that the ambient air tem-

perature is 20 degrees Celsius (plus/minus one degree)

lower than it actually is and accordingly the Engine

Control unit makes the mixture richer by a specific

amount.

According to Jens, “The idea itself is actually rather

simple: if you can trick the computer to think the am-

bient temperature is lower than the actual

temperature reading, it will enrichen the mixture a little

which will improve acceleration and throttle response.”

This sounded good to me so I ordered a Booster Plug

from Jens website and in about a week a package ar-

rived.

While waiting for the package to arrive from Den-

mark I perused some websites where riders had in-

stalled and used the Booster Plug. All the reviews were

glowing and it seemed that installation would be fairly

simple as the Booster Plug is a Plug and Play sort of

device.

For me the time taking off my tank bag, with all the

power and communication cables and various body

panels would take a bit longer than the actual installa-

tion of the Booster Plug.

From soup to nuts it took me an easy half hour with

WNTI (local college station) on the radio and a cold

beer sitting near by.

Once I was able to get to the Air Intake Sensor I sim-

ply unplugged the BMW connection and plugged in the

Booster Plug, the other end went onto the original

BMW plug. I then routed the external NTC Resistor

along the top of the fuel cell and zip-tied it in place

where it would be far from engine heat and get a good

flow of fresh air while I was moving along the roads.

Installation was incredibly easy.

Now this R1200GS starts with greater ease and idles

stronger. On the road the throttle response is far im-

proved and through the entire power range it feels far

smoother than it had previously been running.

It was like getting your bike back from a tune-up

after ignoring it for far too long.

It made my GS even that

much more fun to ride.

The 1200GS, which cur-

rently has 34,0000 miles on

the clock, just felt like a bet-

ter and more responsive ma-

chine. The BMW even shifts smoother

with far less clunking than before. On steep hill where I would always get a

bit of puffing and low occasional backfires I had no more issues. If you have

an aftermarket exhaust you will really notice the difference.

I was more than impressed and very pleased to see a product work exactly

as advertised.

The Booster Plug is available for most modern BMW machines as well as

the Triumph Tiger 1050 and they list for around $150 American.

We have another one on order for our F650GS and I recommend this to all

modern BMW riders – the Booster Plug could just be the best investment

you will ever make in your machines performance.

Log onto www.boosterplug.com for more information or to orders yours.

BACKROADS • JANUARY 2012 Page 13

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elDreD WOrlD War ii museum

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Tucked away in the north central part of Pennsylvania’s Allegheny Moun-

tains, right at the New York border, you will find the tiny town of Eldred.

Smack dab in the middle you will find one of the most impressive museums

dedicated to World War II in the nation - The Eldred World War II Museum.

But “Why is there a World War II museum in Eldred?”

For this we went to the museum’s website. The answer lies in a munitions

plant that was operated in the Eldred area during the war. The plant did not

start out as an American operation, however. George Roudebush, an Ameri-

can lawyer, with J.W. Whitmore, a Canadian, found the Eldred area to be a

suitable location for a munitions plant that would serve British armed forces.

The National Munitions Company began operation in mid 1941, before the

United States became actively involved in World War II. Production for

American armed forces began after December 7, 1941.

Approximately 1,500 people worked in this facility and once our boys went

off to war, 95% of National Munitions Com pany’s employees

were women. During peak production the plant stretched

across 1,800 acres with proving grounds in New York

State. Types of munitions assembled at the plant were British

3 inch trench mortars, 2 inch smoke projectiles, incendiary

bombs, bomb fuses, and thermite hand grenades. Operations

ceased once the war ended and the plant was later dismantled.

With such a history this town was the perfect place for such

a great museum.

Riding up we took in the large tank charging through the

museum’s wall. It gave just a taste of what waited inside.

If a hard-core World War II aficionado or simply a lover of

history the Eldred WWII Museum is sure to please. It is almost

a bit of sensory overload.

We first thought we would spend just a short bit of time here but it turned

out to be quite a bit longer than that.

There were many different displays – one featuring the women that were

back in Eldred building munitions for use over seas, including a stunning

stained glass featuring an image of just one of these great women. Different

weaponry and rifles were displayed, a real periscope, hundreds of original

artifacts and walking through the Eldred World War II Museum you get a

good sense of how important our

efforts were and what a pivotal

time in the world’s history that

era was.

On a note closer to home there

was some artwork depicting what

the Germans did to the Jews.

Being part of a Jewish family the

sheer emotion of this one partic-

ular sketching broke my heart as

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BIG CITY GETAWAY daytrip ideas to get out of the daily grind

loved ones held onto each other as the Nazis ma-

chine-gunned them into a ditch. Who can imagine

such evil existed and sadly still does.

Another display of a Merchant Marine Supply

Ship in the ocean had me almost seasick.

There is much mention in this museum of Con-

gressional Medal of Honor honoree Mitchell Page.

He went off in 1936 to join the Marine Corps to seek

adventure, serve his nation, and see the world. When

war with Japan broke out in 1941, Page was a pla-

toon sergeant in charge of a machine gun platoon

with the 7th Regiment, 1st Marine Division. On Oc-

tober 23, 1942 on the Island of Guadalcanal, he and

his 33 men held off approximately 3,000 Japanese

soldiers in an attack that threatened Henderson Air-

field. He was awarded the Medal of Honor for his

actions. Paige rose through the ranks of the Marine

Corps after a battlefield commission in 1943, retir-

ing as a full Colonel in 1964. The Colonel did much

to help start the museum and is honored for his ac-

tions.

There are many events that are held during the

year at the museum and you can log onto their web-

site to see what is happening and when.

The Eldred World War II Museum is a true Penn-

sylvania treasure for its marvelous portrayal of his-

tory, war and for its artwork and displays; which

struck a chord in both Shira and me.

Next time you are exploring north central Penn-

sylvania make it a point to visit the Eldred WWII

Museum; you will learn a bit about history, bravery

and the resolve of a nation.

BACKROADS • JANUARY 2012 Page 15

Regardless of being boring most historians accept

that the tower is the remains of an old stone windmill

built in colonial times by Benedict Arnold, grandfather

of the Revolutionary War patriot/traitor with the same

name. Arnold was governor of Rhode Island at the time

and owned the land where the tower is located. Arnold

mentions the structure in his will, composed in 1677,

referring to it as “my stone built Wind Mill.” Later

records show the tower was used as a lookout tower by

the Americans and an armory by the British during the

Revolution.

When I visited Newport this past Fall the tower was

being upkept and was surrounded by scaffolds while

three masons pointed and refitted ancient stones.

Surprisingly the three men working on the tower, one

was English, the other a Swede and the third Chinese

which only made me wonder more.

Right across the street from the Viking Tower is a

small shop that can fill you in on all the theories and

latest speculation of who, when and why the tower was

built.

The Viking Tower is there for you to see while riding

in the Newport region – a trip well worth it all by itself.

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Page 16 JANUARY 2012 • BACKROADS

FROM PORT JERVIS, NEW YORK

RTE. 97 TOWARDS NARROWSBURG

STRAIGHT AT RTE. 52 OVER BRIDGE IMMEDIATELY RIGHT AFTER THE BRIDGE

TAKE RIVER RD. SR1017 / 1004LEFT AT RTE. 371LEFT AT RTE. 374RIGHT AT RTE. 106 TO KINGSLEY

CROSS RTE. 11 TO SR 2024(FOLLOW BROOKLYN SIGN)STRAIGHT AT SR 3023 TO RUSH

LEFT AT RTE. 706

RIGHT AT RTE. 409RIGHT AT US 6 LEFT AT T IN TOWANDA

P/U RTE. 220 SOUTH

RIGHT ON RTE. 414STRAIGHT ON RTE. 287RIGHT ON RTE. 660 WELLSBORO

WEST ON RTE. 6BEAR RIGHT IN PORT ALLEGANY TO RTE. 155BEAR RIGHT AT RTE. 446TAKE INTO ELDRED

MUSEUM ON LEFT

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the ViKing tOWer

tOurO ParK, neWPOrt, rhODe islanD

Does something become part of Mysterious America when it is found or

forgotten?

This is a curious question with this month’s sojourn to this Rhode Island

enigma, the Viking Tower.

In the center of Newport, a very busy, touristy and slightly affluent town,

they have one or two fairly nice properties don’tcha know – you will find

Touro Park.

In the middle of this park stands a large stone tower whose beginnings

have been shrouded in mystery and obscurity for a very long time, some say

before the English arrived.

This spot in the park is now encircled by the town that has built up around

it, but hundreds of years ago it could easily be spotted from the sea. The

tower is constructed of small

slabs of unfinished stone held to-

gether with a mortar of shells,

sand and water, and is built upon

eight round columns separated

by an equal number of arches

supporting the remains of two

upper stories. Now just over 24

feet in height, it once stood at

least several feet taller.

But who built it.

Some simply say it was a

windmill, like many of the same

in England while others have the

builders creating this tower cen-

turies before the British invasion.

Many believe the tower was

built as a landmark by Norse

Vikings. It has been well docu-

mented that the Vikings had trav-

eled to North America centuries

before Columbus stumbled upon

it; so claiming the tower’s pedi-

gree is from the Norse is not that

far of a stretch. Another theory, one that

we think might have far more credibility

than you would think, is that the tower

was built by the Chinese.

Chinese? Seymour are you off your

meds, you ask?

Not at all. There has been quite a bit of speculation about the Chinese not

only reaching New England and the Canadian Maritimes but actually settling

there for a hundred years back in the 12th century. A number of settlements

have been found in Nova Scotia and the local natives, the Mic Maks, tradi-

tional garb is very Asian in design. These people were the only native Amer-

ican tribe to have a written language which looks exactly like Chinese of that

era.

Cape Breton-born architect Paul Chiasson has found ruins of a settlement

while hiking on Cape Dauphin, on the eastern edge of the island. In his book,

The Island of Seven Cities: Where the Chinese Settled When They Discov-

ered North America, Chiasson concludes that explorers from China built the

settlement. I have read this book and Chiasson makes a strong case.

Others claim the tower is an astronomical observatory and that the eight

supporting pillars of the tower face the main points of the compass. In the

1990s, William Penhallow, an astronomer at the University of Rhode Island,

studied the windows in the tower and said that he found a number of astro-

nomical alignments. At the

summer solstice the setting

sun should shine through

the “west” window onto a

niche in the inner wall,

next to the “south” win-

dow. This no longer hap-

pens due to urban

development and park trees. Similarly, the angle from the “east” window

through the “west” window is about 18 degrees south of west, which is the

southern extreme of moonsets during what is known as the “lunar minor

standstill”. The smaller windows also form alignments, on significant stars.

These alignments could be accidental, but if they were deliberate it would

explain why the pattern of windows seems, according to Penhallow, “so odd”.

Still many just say the tower is from colonial times and all this talk of mys-

tery and intrigue is simply a bunch of tall tales. Those people are so boring

– Muggles, I say. (Continued on previous page)

BACKROADS • JANUARY 2012 Page 17

Morton’s BMW Motorcycles Presents

Dr. Seymour O’Life’s MYSTERIOUS AMERICA

the erie hOtel anD restaurant

9 Jersey aVenue, POrt JerVis, neW yOrK 12771

845-858-4100 • theeriehOtel.cOm

Over the year we here at Back-

roads have taken to using the tiny

burg of Port Jervis as a stating point

for many Rip & Rides and more than

a few Backroads Rallies.

Located at the confluences of two

rivers, the Neversink and Delaware,

Port Jervis lies near the points where

the states of New York, New Jersey

and Pennsylvania come together.

South of the Laurel Grove Cemetery,

under the viaduct for Interstate 84,

are two monuments marking the

boundaries between the three states

as mentioned a few months back in

Mysterious America.

The settlement was originally

known as Mahackamack, which was

its name when it was raided and

burned in the American Revolution-

ary War by British forces under the command of Joseph Brant before the Bat-

tle of Minisink in 1779.

After the Delaware and Hudson Canal was opened in 1828, providing

transportation of coal from northeastern Pennsylvania to New York and New

England via the Hudson River, trade brought money and further development

to the area. A village was incorporated in 1853, and was renamed Port Jervis

in the mid-19th century, after John Bloomfield Jervis, the D&H Canal’s chief

engineer. Port Jervis grew steadily into the 1900s, and on July 26, 1907, it

became a city.

The first rail line to run

through Port Jervis was the

New York & Erie Railroad,

which in 1832 was chartered to

run from Piermont, New York,

on the Hudson River in Rock-

land County, to Lake Erie.

Ground was broken in 1835,

but construction was delayed

by a nationwide financial

panic, and did not start again

until 1838. The line was com-

pleted in 1851, and the first

passenger train – with Presi-

dent Millard Fillmore and

United States Senator from

New York Daniel Webster on

board – came through the city

on May 14. The railroad went

through a number of name

changes, becoming the Erie

Railroad in 1897.

Port Jervis is still a train

town and is the last stop on the 95-mile-long Port Jervis Line, which is a

commuter railroad service from Hoboken, New Jersey and New York City

that is contracted to NJ Transit by the Metro-North Railroad of the Metro-

politan Transportation Authority. The track itself continues on to Binghamton

and Buffalo, but passenger service beyond Port Jervis was discontinued in

1966.

But, that is okay for our stop on the Great All American Diner Run is right

here - Port Jervis and The Erie Hotel.

This section of Port Jervis does have its roots in railroad history and you

will find the Erie Hotel and Restaurant right next to the old Depot – one of

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Page 18 JANUARY 2012 • BACKROADS

GREAT ALL AMERICAN DINER RUN tasty places to take your bike

the last remaining buildings from the great “Iron

Horse” days.

The Erie has a most remarkable look, harkening

back to those days of yesteryear. The bar alone is

worth the stop and we dare say it is the prettiest in

this part of the northeast.

But, we’re here for the food and the Erie Hotel

certainly has us covered.

We stopped by on a beautiful Fall day and found

a few other riders had stolen the weekday afternoon

as well and headed to The Erie for lunch.

Although they serve a stupendous dinner menu, we think we’ll stick with

lunch this day.

Many of their servings are creative and different and bear historical names.

On their cold sandwich menu you’ll find the Sundance Kid – salami, ham,

cheese with greens on a roll. The Erie is sliced roast beef and cheese and ac-

coutrements with some biting horseradish and mayo.

For those of you who cannot get enough Thanksgiving we would recom-

mend the Mae West; which is fresh sliced turkey, herb stuffing and cranberry

sauce – yummy!

Along The Erie’s Specialty Sandwiches you will

find some terrific offering. The Bushwacker, which

is almost decadent with sliced turkey, ham and

Swiss cheese dipped in an eggwash then grilled and

served with Russian dressing. Part meaty sandwich

part French Toast. I do believe this is a new Shira

Kamil favorite.

The Buffalo Bill is equally as delicious with fresh

roast beef, sautéed onions and melted cheese.

Staying basic this day I went for The Erie’s ½

pound burger, which was one of the best I have had in a long time.

In truth The Erie Hotel and Restaurant has so much to offer the casual rider

or the good-sized riding group.

They have plenty of seats and rooms upstairs as well if you find yourself

in the three-states area as the sun is setting.

While in Port Jervis seek out the Erie Train Turntable and some of the mag-

nificent trains on display too.

The region, the roads, the history…The Erie Hotel has all the great ingre-

dients for a stop on the Great All American Diner Run.

FROM NYC (JUST LIKE THE TRAIN)CROSS GEORGE WASHINGTON BRIDGE

PALISADE TO EXIT 14LEFT INTO HARRIMAN

STRAIGHT THROUGH TRAFFIC CIRCLE ON 106/210BEAR RIGHT RTE.17 NORTH

LEFT AT ORANGE TURNPIKE CR 19LEFT AT BRAMONTOWN ROAD (HARD TO READ SIGN!)BEAR LEFT AT BENJAMIN HOLLOW ROAD

LEFT AT BENJAMIN MEADOW ROAD

MAKE RIGHT AT RTE. 17ABEAR RIGHT THEN LEFT AT GREENWOOD LAKE

STAY ON RTE. 17A

LEFT AT RTE. 94 SOUTH

RIGHT AT CR 1A INTO CR 1LEFT AT RTE. 284IN UNIONVILLE MAKE RIGHT AT MAIN STREET

BEAR LEFT AT CR 36BECOME CR 651 IN NEW JERSEY

PLEASE WATCH 15 MPH TURNS!!!RIGHT AT GORGE ROAD

RIGHT AT RTE 23 NORTH

CROSS OVER HIGH POINT STATE PARK

LEFT AT US 6 INTO PORT JERVIS

LEFT AT JERSEY AVENUE

THE ERIE IS DOWN THE ROAD ON THE LEFT

Rip & Ride® • THE ERIE HOTEL AND RESTAURANT9 JERSEY AVENUE, PORT JERVIS, NEW YORK 12771 • 845-858-4100 • THEERIEHOTEL.COM

BACKROADS • JANUARY 2012 Page 19

riDing tO anDes

Okay, so we’re not talking the mountains of South America – this time.

But, a while back we told you about a

great barbeque, The Cha Cha Hut, in the

tiny town of Andes, New York.

Well, there is more to this town than just

great food. Okay, there is more great food –

and a nice hotel, bar, museum and, oh yeah

lots of fantastic roads.

Pack up the bike cause we’re outta here!

This originally started as a GAADR, but

with an unusually warm couple of days in

mid-March we did a little planning and

found the perfect overnight for the trip.

The Andes Hotel.

But, let’s start with our little ride up.

We began our journey heading to the

Delaware River. Right before the bridge that

crosses in Milford, Pennsylvania, we went

to the right to stay on County Road 521

which ran us into New York at Port Jervis.

We made a quick stop at one of our own Mysterious America’s, The Tri-

State Marker, which shows where New York, New Jersey and Pennsylvania

come together – sort of.

From there we picked up Route 97 and rode the famed Hawks Nest –

which was totally empty on this warm March Thursday.

We hooked a right at County Road 31 and gained altitude as we motored

along Forestburgh and the Mongaup Valley.

Not too long after that we passed the Woodstock site and then carried on

north into the Catskills.

Although snow had been gone for a few

weeks in New Jersey the white stuff still

had a hold on the shady side of the

Pepacton Reservoir and made for a messy

ride along the still semi-frozen water.

We scooted along a small county road

towards Andes, where we’d find the hotel

by the same name.

The Andes Hotel has been around for a

long time, try 1850, but the old building

has been kept up and sitting on the porch

with a beverage at the end of the riding

day can bring you back to simpler times.

The Andes Hotel has ten rooms for rent

that are located off the main building.

We were very impressed by each of the

rooms we saw. All newly refurbished and

decorated they were as nice as any we

have seen in the region. The Andes Hotel website describes them this way

“It’s like your drivin’ cross country in the ’73 Plymouth Satellite all over

again, “Ooohh look dad they have color TV. Can we stay there tonight?”

Well, in our case we’ll be riding up on some classic motorcycles and that’ll

work for us.

Page 20 JANUARY 2012 • BACKROADS

RTE. 209 NORTH

RIGHT BEFORE BRIDGE TO CR 521CROSS IN TO NEW YORK AT PORT JERVIS

LEFT AT US 6 OVER SMALL STEEL BRIDGE

IMMEDIATE LEFT INTO CEMETERY

RIDE SLOWLY TO END AND FIND THE

TRI-STATE MARKER NEAR THE POINT UNDER I-84BACK TO US 6 - TAKE IN THE FANTASTIC MARKERS IN

THIS PLACE.PICK-UP RTE. 97 – HAWKS NEST

RIGHT AT CR 31RIGHT AT CR 42BEAR RIGHT AT CR 43LEFT AT NORTH RD.LEFT AT CR 44 / 45

LEFT AT RTE. 42LEFT AT T TO BROADWAY

BEAR LEFT AT RTE. 17BRIGHT AT RTE. 52BEAR LEFT AT CR 128CROSS CR 122 TO DYKER RD.

SLOW ANIMAL SANCTUARY

RIGHT AT BAYER RD.LEFT AT CR 122 / 123BECOMES CR 124CROSS UNDER RTE. 17 TO ROSCOE

LEFT AT RTE. 206RIGHT AT RTE. 30 PEPACTON RESERVOIR

CROSS CAUSEWAY MAKE IMMEDIATE LEFT TO CR1BEAR RIGHT TO ANDES

Bergen County Harley-Davidson Presents

WE’RE OUT TA HERE a weekend destination keeping you on the backroads

Rip & Ride® • THE ANDES HOTEL110 MAIN STREET, ANDES, NEW YORK 1373 • 845-676-3980 • WWW.ANDESHOTEL.COM

Our room was very comfortable and bigger

than most we’ve stayed in. The comfortability

ran over to the shower, which we gave a high

rating too. Always a plus.

After checking in we had a few hours to kill

before dusk so we went exploring the environs,

riding towards Bovina on County Road 6 and

then 5 which gave an awesome view of the val-

ley below, even in the melting wet.

As the sun was setting and after a well de-

served and appreciated nap we moseyed over

to the tavern and restaurant.

That night was pool night and the locals did

a good job of keeping the place busy. Frank the

bartender was very accommodating and we

met a few guys named Bob that night. One was slightly more than a “pip.”

Yes, Bob Cole – that would be you.

The Tavern carries an excellent selection of beer, ales and wine. So they

probably have whatever you crave.

Dinner at the Andes Hotel will not let you down. There is a reason for this.

Ed & Sally O’Neill are your hosts at The Andes Hotel. Ed, a graduate of

The Culinary Institute of America, spent the first eight years of his career

under the tutelage of a few of America’s most celebrated Chefs. After spend-

ing three years with Charlie Palmer from Aureole restaurant, he moved on

to spend three more with George Masraff from The Tavern on The Green

and Windows on The World.

Sally grew up in the “business” working with her family at a small summer

resort and at a local seafood restaurant, The Lobster Inn, in the Hamptons.

These folks know what they are doing and it shows with each item on the

menu.

On certain days it is well worth walking down to the Hunting Tavern Mu-

seum – where they will tell you the story of the Anti Rent War, not to mention

some great antiquing to be found in the

town as well.

Over in Europe you will often find

places to stay that combine the tavern,

restaurant and hotel in a nice way. Here at

The Andes Hotel they have done this as

well, in a strictly American-way. When we

stayed there they had a two for one special-

the same room for two nights for the price

of one. They may run specials like that this

season, but call to see if that is the case.

This place is perfect for small riding

groups and if you and your riding buddies

are looking for a great overnight, that al-

lows for serious riding and a great evening

to boot – then check out The Andes hotel

– you will not be disappointed.

BACKROADS • JANUARY 2012 Page 21

The Great All American Diner RunFor years now this monthly column has been a favorite for so many of our readers.

We all enjoy excellent food, exquisite scenery and enticing roads and with the Great All American Diner Run we try to find that magical combination for you

each month. This year we had a hard choice to bring it down to the top three for the Best of Backroads 2011.

2nd Runner Up • the forklift café1831 rte. 739, Dingmans ferry, Pa 18238 • 570-82-1920 •

www.forkliftcafe.com

Just west of the Dingmans Bridge crossing the Delaware River you will find our

second runner up for the GAADR, the Forklift Café.

A tiny but comfortable place, the Forklift Café offers up some seriously great food

from a wide and eclectic menu.

Backroads Central is not all that far from the Forklift Café and we head there

often for breakfast and lunch. We’re still exploring the deep menu.

What ever you decide on you’ll absolutely enjoy it here; we promise you.

1st Runner Up • cha cha hut bbQ43311 sr 28, arkville, ny 12406 • 845-586-6100 • www.chachahut.com

We had gotten a tip from not one but two friends about this barbeque in

Andes, New York and as soon as we could we were winging our way north

into the Catskills along snow-lined roadways around the reservoirs.

We were not disappointed as Frank and Cherie Davis serve up the best

barbeque we have had in a long time and that is even before you pour on

their incredible sauces. The ribs are to die for, the Mac & Cheese is the

best on the planet – seriously we mean that - and the rubs that they use

and thankfully sell are simply a stunning inspiration.

During our Fall Fiesta Rally we brought a dozen or so riders up the Cha

Cha Hut for lunch and many brought back dinner to the hotel as well.

New for this year will be the Cha Cha Hut’s location. By the time you

read this they will be in their new digs in Arkville, New York, right on

Route 28 and we can’t wait to head up there to see the new Cha Cha Hut.

1st Place Great All American Diner Run 2011 • glen iris innletchworth state Park, castile, ny 14427 • 585-493-2622 • www.glenirisinn.com

When it comes to taking the #1 spot for 2011’s Great All American

Diner Run it really came down to location.

When you open up a wonderfully classy restaurant, like the Glen Iris,

in the middle of the most amazing natural beauty that New York has to

offer – Letchworth State Park, with its long gorge, towering rail bridge

and thunderous waterfalls - it is hard to go wrong.

We stopped by this past May and spent a great afternoon exploring

the park, and sitting down to a scrumptious lunch. Although the Glen

Iris looks to be a bit more upscale that we usually frequent we found

the staff helpful and more than friendly.

After lunch a stroll around the grounds was in order as was some time

set aside for a little photography.

You will want to bring both your camera and appetite when you ride

to the Glen Iris, the Great All American Diner Run champ for 2011!

Page 22 JANUARY 2012 • BACKROADS

nce again our people started to drift in from around the Backroads nation.Byers flying in with a top secret (not now) Navy jet. So stealthy. Heald pulling up on an ancient Conestogawagon he was testing for Playboy. Surprising to all of us was Jeff Bahr who actually parachuted in outof a bi-plane piloted by Don “Empire” Bock. How he made it through the trees is beyond us all.

The oddest arrival was the good Doctor – O’Life.We were all wondering if he would be a no show when the series of blacked out Suburbans pulled into the

long drive of Backroads Central, with the heavy limo in the middle.Seymour stepped out followed by an attractive black woman who gave him the biggest hug and then said, “Our

nation is proud of you all…”A slender man in a suit waved from the window.

No way!All right then…Time to get to the business of our yearly Best of Backroads!

OTheBest ofBackroads 2011

Big City GetawayThe Big City Getaway has always been about places to ride to and things to see. Whether it be to a great museum, interesting site and an important place in

history; combining a good day’s ride with some place special is always a good thing.

2nd Runner Up • the saratoga battlefield

This famous Revolutionary Battle, actually two battles fought nearly 18 days

apart, changed the course of the war with Burgoyne’s loss to the Continental Army.

News of Burgoyne’s surrender was instrumental in formally bringing France into

the war as an American ally and the rest is history – American history! The grounds

of these hallowed places are quite beautiful and riding around the battlefield is some-

thing everyone should do at least once.

1st Runner Up • Pocono indian museumroute 209, bushkill, Pa • 570-588-9338

www.poconoindianmuseumonline.com

We are so used to how things are these days with modern technology, well built

roads and Cracker Barrels and Starbucks that we forget that this land of ours was

around way before Europeans arrived.

At the Pocono Indian Museum you will learn of the local native past.

The ancestors of the people we know as the Lenape arrived some 10,000 years

ago and they lived, more or less, peacefully for centuries in this region.

Here at the Pocono Indian Museum the tour will show you how they survived

and flourished for all those centuries. The tools they used, the homes they lived in,

how the Lenape hunted and farmed. And, just as importantly how, in just a short

span of 100 years, the tribes that some knew as the Delaware Indians and their cul-

ture vanished from this region as European settlers made headway westward.

It really is a super museum with some seriously great local riding as well nearby

as well.

1st Place for 2011 Big City Getaway • motorcyclepedia museum 250 lake street (route 32) , newburgh, ny

845-569-9065 • www.motorcyclepediamuseums.com

This was a very easy choice for us here at Backroads Central – our region needed

a place like this and now we have it.

As our intrepid cub reporter Pete Miller said in his article,

“Motorcyclepedia is a museum dedicated to motorcycles. It’s incredible! The

museum, established by Edward and Gerald Doering, houses motorcycles and mo-

torcycle memorabilia that have been collected by the Doerings for decades.

Will those who visit Motorcyclepedia enjoy, learn, investigate and examine mo-

torcycles? You bet. The museum is housed on two floors in an 85,000 square foot

building. Entering the museum you’re immediately struck by its spacious, well-lit

and elegant displays of all things motorcycle. Gerald “Ted” Doering’s intention was

to create a museum that anyone could enjoy. “You don’t have to be a motorcycle

enthusiast to enjoy the museum,” Ted says, “there’s something for everyone”. Is

there ever. It’s impossible for anyone to walk through the museum and not be re-

minded of some memory resurrected by a motorcycle, movie poster, song, television

show or comic book displayed in the museum.”

We’re Outta Here!This monthly column is always a favorite of ours. At the beginning of the year we never know where the road will take us

and what special inns, hotels and lodgings we will find along the way to pass onto you. Whether it be a small B & B or

palatial plantation we aim to please here. So let’s get going and see what the top three for 2011 are.

2nd Runner Up • springhill Winery Plantation bed & breakfast3205 springfield road, bloomfield, Ky 40008 • 502-252-9463 • www.springhillwinery.com

Many times in our travels we come across a place that is just wonderful. We con-

sider it a perk of the job; but when we do we like to share it with you guys in Back-

roads.

This just happened to us once again while traveling down south through the Blue

Grass state of Kentucky.

An actual working winery, the plantation is a stunning home built back in 1857

by one John R. Jones and owned now by Ed and Carolyn O’Danile. Springhill is

centrally located and just a short ride from many of the local sites and bourbon dis-

tilleries.

Its fine acreage has rows of grapevines and the vineyards produce some delectable

varieties. It is the only Kentucky winery to have been featured in Wine Spectator.

Everything about the Springhill was incredibly fine, especially Ed’s great stories of local lore and history.

Kentucky is an absolute joy to ride and the Springhill Winery is well worth the visit.

BACKROADS • JANUARY 2012 Page 23

1st Runner Up • Kitzhof inn332 route 100, West Dover, Vt 05356 • 802- 464-8310 • www.kitzhof.com

Motorcyclists will find a warm welcome from innkeepers and restaura-

teurs in the Mount Snow area, and many innkeepers, like Simon and Alison

Ferris, owners of the Kitzhof Inn in West Dover, VT, are themselves keen

motorcycle enthusiasts. In addition, they are members of the Backroads

Moto-Inn Program of Rider-Friendly places to stay. Always a good thing!

The Kitzhof is located on Vermont’s Route 100, nationally acclaimed as

one of the country’s most scenic drives, and just north of the Gray Ghost

Inn, where we’ve held a number of our rallies. In fact, Simon and Allison

have handled the overflow from their neighbors for years now and only

the greatest things have been said about the Kitzhof.

From the warm and cozy atmosphere, phenomenal indoor hot tub and

neat game room to the very comfortable rooms, the place is truly excellent.

For those of you new to riding this region, Route 100 is a fantastic two-lane high-

way that bisects Vermont, running along the spine of the Green Mountains, from

the Massachusetts border to Canada.

Along the way you will find many hotels, bed & breakfasts and inns, but few as

friendly and enjoyable as the Kitzhof.

1st Place We’re Outta Here 2011elk mountain homestead

401 homestead Drive , benezette, Pa 15821

814-787-5168 • experienceelkcountry.com

Now here was a place with a view. And what a view it was as the night

began to approach and the elk in all their magnificence came out from the

forests to graze in the wide meadow before us, which we took in from the

view atop the silo.

Why elk you ask?

At one time there were thousands of Elk in this region, but when Euro-

peans arrived they basically devastated the herds.

In the early 1900’s Elk were reintroduced from the Rockies and since

then have flourished under the watchful eye of Pennsylvania.

Page 24 JANUARY 2012 • BACKROADS

WOODSTOCKHARLEY-DAVIDSON

949 Route 28, Kingston, NY 12401845.338.2800 • www.WoodstockHarley.com

Here at the Elk Center outside Benezette, Pennsylvania you can even rent the old farm homestead for you and

your small group.

It’s a complete home, with a kitchen and all the amenities. We would recommend staying a few nights, and mak-

ing yourself at home, as the region offers the best riding in all of the Keystone state and the Center’s museum is

very well done indeed and worth taking the time to explore.

We fell in love with the Elk Mountain Homestead and plan on returning whenever we can. You should too –

there is an excellent reason this was chosen as our #1 place to overnight for 2011.

Actually there are a number of reasons and they weigh over 1,000 pounds each!

Mysterious AmericaSome 18 years ago, when we first began publishing Backroads, we were approached by one very strange dude in-

deed – Dr. Seymour O’Life who promised us an unending supply of odd, strange and mysterious destinations.

Along with a few sidekicks he has come through for nearly two decades and each month we wonder what the good

Doctor will show up with. This year he did not let us down and we would like to now offer you the top three for Mysterious America 2001.

2nd Runner Up • Desert Of maine95 Desert rd., freeport, me 04032 • www.desertofmaine.com

When one thinks of a desert the regions of northern Africa or America’s southwest might spring to mind, but rarely

would the northeastern state of Maine.

What, a desert in Maine? That’s absurd – Maine has rocky coasts and smashing waves, great woodlands, moose

and lakes. Not camels and sand.

Ah, but there you are wrong my stalwart friends, if just a bit. Come

along with Seymour now as we ride to Freeport, Maine and the old Tut-

tle farm that is now the Desert of Maine.

One day Farmer Tuttle noticed a fine sand had begun to appear along

parts of the farm. As time went on the sand began to encroach on other

parts of the farm. Tuttle’s land was being overrun by something he

thought should only be found in the Sahara.

But there was an underlying cause for Tuttle’s woes. Literally.

This part of the northeast had been buried under miles of ice during the last Ice Age. The powerful forces of the

slow moving glaciers crushed and pureed the native stone into a sand-like glacial silt. With the badly managed

crops and clear cutting, Tuttle had began eroding the shallow top soil of his once fertile farm, exposing a sandy

monster from the past. Adding the sheep, who do not simply graze but tear plants out by the roots, the farm was

quickly taken back by the underlying glacial silt.

BACKROADS • JANUARY 2012 Page 25

Everyone atMontgomeryville

Cycle Center would liketo thank all our customers

and wish you a veryHappy Holiday Season.

Montgomeryville Cycle Center2901 Bethlehem Pike, Hatfield, PA 19440

215-712-7433 • www.MontgomeryvilleCC.com

The ocean breezes kept the sand moving and eventually almost 500 acres became a desert of sorts, with huge dunes

hundreds of feet high. The Tuttle’s gave up on the farm and sold. These days the Desert of Maine is a true piece of Mys-

terious America and yours for the viewing.

1st Runner Up • roadside giants of the lincoln highway

While zipping along this great highway named after President Lincoln,

just east of Everett I saw the most amazing thing, the World’s Biggest

Quarter.

This over-sized quarter with George Washington’s profile is a full 20

feet in diameter and weighs nearly one ton. The quarter was chosen due to

Washington’s strong connections to Bedford County. Washington stayed

at the famous Espy House on Pitt Street, and often drank at the Fraser Tav-

ern, commonly known as the Graystone, during the French & Indian War.

So there was this huge Quarter.

But, this is just a touch of what can be found along this famous highway.

It seems that a few years back a number students started building these go-

liaths.

Somerset County Technology Center built a Bicycle Built for Two meas-

uring 17 feet high and weighing over 1,800 lbs. This Giant Bicycle is rid-

ing high at the intersection of Routes 30 and 219 near Jennerstown. The

owners of a local resale shop, Second Time Around, were happy to host

this Giant on their property. Students at this school wanted to recreate this

design because of Somerset County’s many bike trails, like the popular

Great Allegheny Passage.

Franklin County Career & Technology Center in Chambersburg, PA built

a 1921 Selden Apple Truck standing 10.5 feet high and weighing nearly 1

1/2 ton.

In 1927, David Koontz built a two-story coffee pot lunch stand to attract

weary drivers in need of a perk. Over the years it became a dive bar and,

in 2003, the county of Bedford bought it for $1 for their visitor’s center,

after some much needed TLC.

The Roadside Giants of the Lincoln Highway are just some of the many

mysterious things that can be seen roadside through this great country.

Keep your eyes peeled you never know what is around that bend – giant shoes, coffee pots…well, just about anything.

Page 26 JANUARY 2012 • BACKROADS

1st Place Mysterious America 2011 • Joe’s bar202 W main st, ligonier, Pa 15658 • 724-238-4877

Occasionally even O’Life runs into something that makes him take a

step back. This was the case of a simple bar in Pennsylvania.

Some folks call places like these “Old Men” bars. Other will mistakenly

label them “Dives.” But whatever you might take away from a visit to the

center of town watering hole in Ligonier, Pennsylvania we guarantee it

will be curious amazement.

Joe Snyder ran this bar for years, but it seems his passion was hunting.

We’re not talking deer or rabbits here. Nope, we’re talking big game.

The bigger the better.

Now, before any of you animal lovers go ballistic on the good Doctor

here, let’s be clear. I didn’t shoot these animals - Joe did and it’s done so

stop crying and come along to a real find in Mysterious America.

In the back of Joe’s Bar in Ligonier you will find the greatest pri-

vate collection of stuffed animals we have ever seen.

A giant elephant’s head, lions’ tigers and bears – black, brown

grizzly and Polar. But wait there is more…

Kangaroos, snakes, buffalo, rhinoceros, ibex, skunks, and almost

every creature you could possibly shoot to kill on this planet. An es-

timated representation of 100 species are on view, all for the price

of wandering in, no purchase necessary.

Even some that were never actually on the planet in the first place.

Jackalopes and squirrels dressed up like Robin Hood and his furry

Merry Men. All in all I estimated over 220 stuffed mementoes of

Joe’s travels.

We have never seen a place like this and it easily was the oddest

place we visited this last year and we hope you check it out too.

The town of Ligonier has a great B&B called the Campbell House

that will make you feel so at home and several good eateries such

as the Ligonier Tavern with outdoor dining for the warmer weather.

Joe’s Bar, the 2011 #1 Mysterious America, is just a short stroll

down the road from these.

Rip & Rides can be found on pages 44-45.

BACKROADS • JANUARY 2012 Page 27

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WE HAVE IT ALL!

Once again the Earth did its yearly trip round the sun and with the days significantly shorter and the weatherstarting to cool it was time for our annual Autumnal gathering we call the Fall Fiesta. This time around wewanted to do things a bit differently and head to some places we had not sojourned to in the past so welooked back on a ride we did last fall with the folks from Americade.

Along one of the day trips we ended up in the tiny seaside town of Booth Bay, Maine. Here Shira and I split from the ratherlarge group and ended up finding an inn called the Ocean Point. It took us about two minutes walking around the place toknow we would be doing something up this way.The problem was getting our group up and back. This, we thought, we’d handle with a few nights on the road heading toand from Maine. We have done rallies like this before, but this one would be a bit different as we had made up routes sointricate that we felt they were best done by GPS; thus this rally would have no route sheets. We were not sure if thisventure into a totally techno-ride would fly, but we would give it a shot. Worse come to worse we could always go back toManually Acquired Positioning System, also known as MAPS, and make the best of it the old-fashioned way.

Page 30 JANUARY 2012 • BACKROADS

Fall Fiesta 2011

Although many would meet us up in Sturbridge, Massachusetts at the Pub-

lick House, some met us for a quick breakfast in Fishkill and then a few dif-

ferent groups headed off following US Military Satellites north and east.

The ride was pleasant as we cut from New York into Connecticut and then

back and forth across the Massachusetts border before finally pulling into

Sturbridge in the mid-afternoon.

We had first heard of the Publick House from friends travelling through a

few years back, but as fate would have it none of them actually came on this

rally. Go figure.

The rather sprawling place certainly could handle our large group and by

evening we had the lots and restaurants full. Another Backroads Rally was

under way.

Most were up and out

early the next day as we

had an ambitious ride to the

rocky coast of Maine.

This would be the day

that would either prove our

GPS-Only experiment was

a good one or a flop.

JANUARY 2012 • BACKROADS Page 31

Opposite: The rocky coast of Maine.Clockwise: Passing the road course of Lime Rock,our digs in Massachusetts and on the road to Maine.

Shira had planned this day’s 260 miles of backroads

delight and she came through in a big way as the route

up the center of Massachusetts and into New Hampshire

was a pure delight.

Crossing into Maine we were forced to go around

Portland and did our best to stay off the Interstate as we

paralleled Route 1 heading north.

Right on time for sunset we rolled up to the Ocean

Point Inn right on Boothbay Harbor.

Adirondack chairs and a beautiful setting sun easily

cleansed us all from the miles of the day and we all knew

we had a winner with both Boothbay and the routes.

With a free day in Maine our Fall Fiesta folk went all

over. We had set up a number of rides along the coast

and Shira and I split up for the day, she riding with

friends to find the ultimate lobstah roll and me heading

back to Portland to visit Loren Coleman’s Cryptozool-

ogy Museum.

Along for my ride came Deni and Larry, both of whom

were promised the real ultimate lobstah roll for lunch.

The museum was awesome and Loren, the United

States leading expert in all things monster, was very cor-

dial and took great pleasure showing us the true Myste-

rious America.

Page 32 JANUARY 2012 • BACKROADS

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Heading back east we stopped at DeLorme

Maps and got to see Eartha the world’s largest

globe; a full three stories tall, it truly shows you

what a wonderful place we call home.

Now you know you are in Maine when the

Lobster Shacks start outnumbering the fuel sta-

tions, but one particular Lobsta’ Shack has risen

above the rest – Red’s Eats which is found right

on Route 1 in the town of Wiscasset. Considered

by many as the #1 lobstah roll on the planet we

had to do lunch there even though there was a 45

minute wait.

Not that I am an expert on lobstah roll, but

Red’s Eats serves up an entire lobster on every

roll. Simply amazing and time well spent.

Many of our riders headed to the Marshall

Point Light House made famous in Forest Gump.

The route traveled up and down the fingers of the

coast of Maine, finding some beautiful roller

coaster roads. Although it was an overcast day,

the setting made for some striking photos. It was

then a short ride to the Brass Compass Café, in

Rockland. This little place was featured in Bobby

Flay’s Throwdown for lobstah rolls and the

BACKROADS • JANUARY 2012 Page 33

Counterclockwise: Our digs in Maine, Loren Cole-man informs Deni and Larry of all things crypto,front of the line at Red’s Eats, Marshall PointLighthouse, the face-off of the lobsta rolls withPepe’s King of Clubs and Red’s Eats overstuffedroll and coastal riding.

owner, Lynn Archer, took home the title with her triple-decker

King of Clubs. All those in Shira’s group agreed it was a great

sandwich – it had bacon, how could it not be? From there some

went to explore the harbor area of Boothbay with its quaint shops

while others kept on the little roads back to the Inn.

This was the first time we had ever hit a coast on a Backroads’

rally and from the smiles and comments we think we hit the bulls

eye with Boothbay.

We had been fairly golden with the weather so far but, as most

know, it wouldn’t be a Backroads Rally without a bit of moisture.

The next day started off just cloudy but heading west through

the forests of Maine things began to get wet. Crossing into the

Granite state of New Hampshire the skies opened up and the day

became a soaker. Entering Vermont the usual tranquil roads had a

more ominous look. Our route was to bring us over the mountains

on roads we were familiar with and would drop us off on Route

100 just south of the Gray Ghost Inn, our third hotel of the rally.

We rode up to a “Road Closed” sign, which we promptly ig-

nored, and got a first hand look at the incredible destruction Hur-

ricane Irene did to the region. Houses toppled, cars crushed,

properties covered with silt, sand and rock.

We took our time along the destroyed road and waved politely

at the road crews rebuilding the state.

Later on we found that a good number of our riders chose to ig-

nore the road closed sign and took the short but adven-

turous cut through the pass.

The Gray Ghost was a complete sell-out for this

event and it is always a joy seeing Carina and the kids.

The rains kept plaguing us this day, but we had no

worries as the Gray Ghost had planned a barbeque din-

ner for our group. The bikes were parked, folks dried

off and the festivities continued. Later that night after

a number of storm bands had washed the region we

began to see stars peaking out and the next morning

was a glorious one with sun and clouds and cooler tem-

peratures.

From the Gray Ghost our next and last stop on this

year’s Fall Fiesta would be the Hunter Inn in the

Catskills.

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Hunter was holding their annual Octoberfest and there was the Color in

the Catskills Motorcycle Rally too.

We had mapped out most of the routes for this trip well before Hurricane

Irene pillaged the northeast so this day we ran into many closed roads, which

we again took any way.

Needless to say we began to reroute along the way avoiding any rivers and

streams when we could. Still there was plenty of sand and gravel this day.

We stopped for lunch in Great Barrington and then looped west and over

the Rip Van Winkle Bridge across the Hudson and into the Catskill.

With all the moisture from the previous days the waterfalls on Route 23A

were the most impressive we have ever seen them and we knew that we

would have to spend some time rethinking our next day’s ride to the Cha Cha

Hut Barbeque.

We checked into the hotel and then scooted over to the rally to see what

was going on and to visit the vendor area.

The hotel had a decent bar and a great menu so

we were set for the night, which was a good thing

as we had even more Fall Fiesta Folks showing

up for the last few days of the rally and the place

did a brisk business that night; even if it took all

night to really get dinner.

As we mentioned we had a ride scheduled that

Saturday to one of our favorite barbeques, the

Cha Cha Hut in Andes, New York, but as bad as

parts of Vermont and Massachusetts were the

Catskills took a bigger hit from Irene and any

roads by the creeks and streams might or might

not be rideable.

We found that our planned route was not going

to happen so we made a large loop along roads

that were still open to Andes.

We had promised our riders only the best in barbeque this day and Frank

and Cherie came through in a big way with their outstanding smoky delights,

creative sauces and the best mac & cheese in the world. We even bought a

few racks of ribs back for dinner later that night.

We routed up by Grand Gorge and then through Prattsville. The scene in

the town, or what was left of it, was beyond anything we had seen so far. The

town was devastated when the local creek rose over 15 feet in under 12 hours

and we heard, at one point, the rain spilling off the Catskills sent a volume

of water that was greater than Niagara Falls through the town. A large white

FEMA tent dominated a muddy lot and homes were crushed and mangled,

torn off their foundations. American flags jutted from poles stuck in the mud;

and the misery of this tragedy was enough to make you want to cry for these

people.

You barely heard about this from the big news networks, but I am sure

there will be yet another sad story about Katrina next week. It is amazing

how some news people decided what is worth reporting over and over again.

Back at the Hunter Inn we parked the bikes for the day and meandered

back to the Octoberfest and the Colors in the Catskills Rally.

The beer was flowing and the oompah bands were blaring and even though

it was a fairly crappy and wet day everybody seemed to be having a grand

time; so we got in the spirit and danced polkas,

sang unknown lyrics to obscure German drinking

songs and generally had smiles all around.

It was a fine end to a phenomenal week of rid-

ing with our friends new and old.

Sunday saw most packing up and heading

homeward and, right on cue, the sun came out al-

lowing for this last day on the road to be as perfect

as they come. Some have taken to calling it Back-

roads Weather.

Heading south out of the Catskills I began to

breathe a sigh of relief as the roads looked better

and we were making quick time home, until we

ran into the Delaware River just south of Port

Jervis. We saw one last Road Closed warning. We

ignored it, like the rest, and soon were back at Backroads Central where there

was, thankfully, no sign closing our driveway.

Another great rally in the books.

We hope to see you in May in Luray, Virginia – trust us – we already are

praying to the Weather Gods and Joe Bastardi.

BACKROADS • JANUARY 2012 Page 35

Since my family and friends were a bit worried about my disappearance I

want everyone to know that yes, I am safe and sound; no real harm done. I

was riding back from North West Argentina and was taken hostage by a small

band of leftist guerrillas operating in the mountain range of Tucuman. I man-

aged to break free but it was a pretty hairy 12 hours.

After the previous day’s rain the sun was a welcome sight as I headed down

the mountain pass from Tafi de Valle towards the low lands of Tucuman

Province. Doug Raymond and I drank our coffee at an outdoor cafe and con-

ferred over the topo maps planning his ride northwards toward Bolivia. After

breakfast we shook hands and wished each other well. He went left and I

went right.

The sun was breaking through the thin overcast that had hovered all morn-

ing, remnants of the previous night’s drizzle, and provided a dazzling array

of light across the valley on the east-facing mountains of green. The BMW

R1100 GS was running absolutely great and I cruised down the

switchbacks, the cool wind flowing through my open visor. Oc-

casionally I would pass a car heading up the mountain but

for the most part I had the road to myself. What a

great feeling.

As I approached a sharp curve cut into

the shoulder of a mountain I passed

a road sign. It read, Fin Del

Mundo (End of The

World). I stopped to

snap a picture, then

spied a dirt track leading

from the road up the side of the

mountain toward the crest. Thinking

that there might be some great photo op-

portunities I downshifted, weighted the pegs,

and left the asphalt for the gravel and packed dirt.

Realizing that this could be private property I took it slow,

wary of wires or chains that could be hidden in the shadows.

The foliage turned from vines and moss-covered rocks to a stand of

hemlock and I slowed the bike to almost a crawl, having to look sideways

into the dark recesses to find the trail.

“CRACK!” My helmet jerked sideways. I jumped

from the pegs onto the dirt and was able to stop

the GS without dropping it. What the hell? I

said, looking around to find the source

of the impact. In my mirror I

could see a brown streak,

like dirt, on the side of

my white helmet.

Was it a branch? Did I

hit a bird? As I scanned the

ground behind me a second dirt

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The Revolutionaries

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Page 36 JANUARY 2012 • BACKROADS

clod passed not inches from my face. Then, out of the shadows appeared

fifteen or twenty people, some dressed in camouflage and others in ordinary

street clothes. I was quickly surrounded.

As they came nearer I noticed that none of them were more than three feet

tall, some closer to two feet. “You’re kidding,” I snickered. It was an army

of midgets.

“Shut up Capitalist Pig!” the little guy in front of me screamed in a high,

shrill voice, like he had just sucked a lung full of helium. “We saw you com-

ing up the trail and could smell the stink

of your American Dollars all the way up

here.” I took him to be the leader as the

rest of the group let out little squeals and

giggles when he finished, rocking back

and forth on little bowed legs.

Half laughing I replied, “Hey, man, I’m

just passing through and wasn’t looking

for any trouble.”

The leader stepped out from the rest of

them, they all watched for a hint of what

was about to go down. As he approached

the front of my bike I had to stand up to

see his head over my bike’s cockpit panel.

He eyed me close, looked over my motor-

cycle, then back to me. “You have no idea

where you are, do you Capitalist Pig?”

I looked around, then to my map tucked

into the clear pocket on the top of my tank

bag, and pointed with my finger, “Actually I am about a quarter mile south

west from Route 307, twelve miles from the summit of Tafi de..”

“Silence!” the leader shrilled at me again. I went quiet. There was a mur-

mur from the rest of the group as he stepped forward. I could see his thin,

wiry beard better in the sunlight. He was wearing the best camouflage of the

group and had a cigar stuck in his jacket pocket. “No my friend,” he whis-

pered with a thick Spanish accent, “you … are in Communist Territory.”

My eyebrows went up, “Is this where the Pepsi bottling plant is?” My

comment was met with silent stares.

“You Americans think everything is a joke, don’t you?” The leader walked

to the side of my bike, looked at me with his best Clint Eastwood glare, and

reached up and tapped me on the knee with his riding crop, “The world is

not full of rich people like you. It is occupied by the working class, people

who have to toil, and labor... and...and work for a living.”

“Ah, … those are all synonyms for the same verb.” I pointed out.

“Quiet with your fancy schmancy American double-talk! You, my friend,

have stumbled into the hands of,” he paused for effect and raised his hands,

“the Fuerzas Armadas Revolucianarias de

Tucuman Solidaridad!” A collective cheer

went up around me.

As the squeal died down I did the mental

mathematics and blinked twice... “the

F.A.R.T.S.?” I raised my eyebrows again.

The squeal rose and they all started

dancing in little circles. The leader glanced

beneath my bike at the group on the oppo-

site side, “Enough!” There was silence.

“Yes, we are the F.A.R.T.S aligned closely

with other great leaders for the only true

Democracy. Where ever there are great

revolutionaries, there we are! Key allies

right behind El Che – our Comrade Mar-

tyr, El Castro ...well...actually now his

brother, El Chavez, and... and ... and that

guy from Korea...” he snapped his fingers

impatiently and looked left and right,

“what IS his name?!”

“Kim Jong?” I interjected.

“Siiiiiiii”, he sneered and his eyes brightened, “El Kim Jongo, the wisest

of them all.” A reverent hum arose from the group.

The leader tapped me again on my knee. “Obviously you have heard of all

of the revolutionaries? Then you must know who I am.” He puffed his chest

out and looked off in the distance. I waited. Everyone else waited. He waited.

I waited some more. Finally, as his face was turning red, he let out a big ex-

hale, and looked around obviously annoyed at the group.

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One of the other guys to his right, the Mas-

ter at Arms, wearing a bandoleer across his

chest – not a shotgun shell visible, stepped

forward and said in a tight, high voice, “This

is Che Limburgero, the most renowned rev-

olutionary leader in all of the Americas, the

greatest of the F.A.R.T.S.!” This was fol-

lowed by a squeal from the group.

“Ah, you are the big cheese!” I was proud

of myself at the moment. Then I turned back

to the Master at Arms, “And you must be...?”

I looked at him closer, “…Squeaky” we both

said in unison. I was beginning to get the pic-

ture. Suddenly, I could feel someone close. I

glanced in my mirror and, out of nowhere,

there was a little person standing on the seat

behind me pressing something against the

back of my neck. I moved my head slightly

to the right to get a better look in the mirror, but still couldn’t see him well,

his face partially hid by my helmet. “And this here is….,” this time I paused

for effect, “Silent But Deadly?”

I heard the almost inaudible voice behind my helmet, “SBD to you.”

Breaking the silence one of the other guys on my right stepped forward

wearing a Budweiser cap. Before he could speak I cut him off, “I think I rec-

ognize you. I believe we met while I was in college.” He sneered.

Just then I noticed a figure standing off from the rest, about 10 feet back

in the shadows of the trees. He was wearing old clothes, tattered, and looked

even from this distance to be somewhat dirty. He sheepishly toed the dirt

with his boot. “Who is that?” I asked.

The group collectively turned to look at the figure. Che Limburgero spoke,

“Ah… he’s not really part of our group.

He pretends to be but isn’t really one of

us. He’s just a little shit.” I watched as

the group of revolutionaries turned up

their noses in disgust.

“Right. Ok.” I looked at the round,

cherub faces. “Well, it has been fun and

interesting and I wish you lots of luck

with your little revolution.” I started to

turn the bike around when I heard a

“POP” followed by a sharp pain in my

arm. One of the F.A.R.T.S, holding a BB

gun, had shot me.

“Ow! Quit it!” I yelled. “That hurt!”

The clutch lever slipped out of my hand

and the bike jerked dead in 1st gear.

“You aren’t going anywhere,” El Lim-

burgero retorted. “You are with us until

your Capitalist Friends and Family have paid your ransom!” At that eight of

the little guys ran up and grabbed the bike by the side bags and the wheels

and another had climbed up into a tree and, unseen by me, swung out into

the clearing on a vine, knocking me off of the bike as he passed.

I lay on the ground for a moment trying to get my bearings but it was too

late. I was being tied down with vines to stakes in the ground. As I looked

up, getting dizzy and about to pass out, I could see four other little guys sit-

Page 38 JANUARY 2012 • BACKROADS

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ting on top of the GS, one

behind the other, the one in

front sitting on the gas

tank holding the center of

the handle bars with his

legs sticking straight out to

the side. The four of them

were leaning left and then

right making race bike

noises, the guy in the back

kicking his little legs back

and forth like he was rid-

ing a horse.

The sun was lower on

the horizon when I awoke

and I could see the GS

parked on the side stand. I

dared not move but looked

through slitted eyelids. All

of the revolutionaries were

asleep around me. I tried

to see if there was a guard

on duty but could only see

part of the way to my rear.

I thought that this would

be the time to make a run for it. The key was still in the ignition of the bike.

I took a deep breath and then pressed with all of my strength. The vines

snapped and in one swift motion I jumped up and leapt onto the GS. As I

flipped on the ignition and hit the starter all around me I could see movement.

Little voices squealed and yelled. popped the clutch into first and snapped

the throttle, spinning the back tire in the soft ground and showering the rev-

olutionaries with dirt as I spun the bike around and faced it down hill.

At this I let off the front brake, the back tire gained traction and I took off

down the trail. I could see little figures in my mirrors trying to keep up with

the bike but it was to no avail. They started to disappear behind me. Just then,

as I crested a short rise, I could see something in the trail. At this moment he

stood up. It was the guy they called, “Rip”, he was the muscle of the group,

the brashest, and wasn’t about to give way. He stood, defiantly wearing his

I Love Che Guevara t-shirt, in the middle of the trail.

I stood on the rear brake and skidded the GS to a halt, dust clouds rose

around enveloping us both. When the dust finally settled he was still there,

refusing to go away.

“Crap!,” I said putting the kickstand down and hopping off of the bike.

“You just don’t know any better, do you?” I said. I took three quick strides

towards him, snatched him up by his collar, and swiftly drop-kicked him into

the lower branches of an Elm, growing close to the trail. As he sailed upward

he let out an, “IiiiiiiiiiiiEEEEEEEEEEeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee…”

At this I turned to see the rest of the revolutionary group racing down the

hill on stubby little legs, closing on the bike, and hence, my freedom. I swung

my leg over the GS, jumped on the pegs, and ripped the throttle.

And that is how I escaped and left the F.A.R.T.S. in the dust behind me,

all the way to base of the mountain.

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Every day we are all bombarded by the insurance industry competing against each other for your motorcycle,

car, and homeowner’s insurance. Without exception, all the ads on television, radio and in print media follow the

same theme. “Call us we are here to save you money.” “Shop around and compare prices and you will see that

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they want you to buy the minimal policy of insurance coverage

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yourself and your family.

By way of example if you would purchase a minimum mo-

torcycle insurance policy for $15,000.00 you would be running

the risk that if you are hurt in a motorcycle accident the chances

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minimum amount of insurance in the amount of $15,000.00.

How will you then be compensated if you are badly hurt? If

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I do not have enough space in this article to give you more

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spend the time with you to make certain that you have the most

insurance available to protect you and your family in case you

are seriously injured in a motorcycle or automobile accident.

The best present I can give you for the upcoming holidays is

this article and the opportunity to call me or email me and dis-

cuss it further so that you fully understand precisely the type of

motorcycle and automobile insurance you should be maintain-

ing at this time.

You can reach Andrew S. Prince, Attorney at Law at 800-988-

5297 or 732-396-1800 and email him at Aprinceesq@aol.com.

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BACKROADS • JANUARY 2012 Page 41

Welcome to the Jungle - The Art of Learning to Ride SkillfullyA column dedicated to your riding survival

DUCATI FASHION NIGHT AT CROSS COUNTRY CYCLE

On Friday night November 18th

CC Ducati participated in the

Ducati National Fashion Show and

turned their 35,000 square foot fa-

cility, located at 911 Middlesex

Avenue in Metuchen, NJ into a

nightclub, complete with stage,

lights, DJ and of course models.

Hors d’oeuvres and drinks were

served throughout the evening

that ended around 10pm. Approx-

imately 250 spectators were

wowed by the lights, sounds and

models dressed in the full line of

Ducati riding and casual wear. If

that wasn’t enough, the following

weekend Cross Country hosted its

annual Open House that has been

going on for over 15 years. The

place was mobbed and between

the food and storewide discounts,

most customers left happy. The

fact is, Cross Country knows how

to throw a party!

If you have not visited the store you should make the drive down to

Metuchen which is just minutes off exit 10 on the NJ Turnpike. Not only do

they feature Ducati gear but have an enormous selection of products by

BMW, Rev’it, Olympia, Tourmaster, Gerbing, Icon, Rocket, Alpine Star and

more. The bikes on the six acre site, housed in three buildings on the power-

sports campus include BMW, Ducati, Triumph, Can AM, Polaris, Victory,

Piaggio/Vespa, Kawasaki and Honda. Their hours of operation are from 9-

6pm with a late night until 8pm on Thursday, Saturdays 9-6pm and Sundays

10-3pm. Check out the show on their website www.crossountryducati.com

or youtube.

JUDGE UPHOLDS NY’S MOTORCYCLE-ONLY CHECKPOINTS

From our friends at the NYMSTF…

In a blow to riders across the state, Judge Gary Sharpe (US Northern Dist.)

on November 17 ruled that the motorcycle-only “safety” checkpoints may

continue. The AP reports that since the purpose of the checkpoints was rider

safety, and that they were effective (motorcycle fatalities fell 17% from 2008-

2009), they may continue legally.

The NYMSTF maintains that checkpoints only served to detain and harass

legal, safe riders — indeed, depositions stated that riders were detained up

to 45 minutes for secondary violations. For those who ride in NYC in the

summer, the delay of these weekly checkpoint stops can really add up. Riders

are often handed equipment violations in error — which has nothing to do

with rider safety, but does mandate an appearance in front of an Administra-

tive Law Judge. Not every aftermarket exhaust is illegal, and arguing this on

a day off work does little to promote rider safety.

NYMSTF STICKERS

Show the public who we

are with these new stickers

from the NYMSTF. These

stickers are 3” x 1.5”,

screen-printed on lami-

nated, weather-resistant

white vinyl. The vinyl is

pliable enough to apply smoothly to curved surfaces like a helmet, topcase

or fender. $2.50 each when purchased online including S&H from

http://nymstf.org/swag.htm

Buy one for yourself, or get a pack to give or re-sell to your riding club.

All proceeds from NYMSTF sales go directly to fund the efforts of the

NYMSTF

THE PRINCE PICKS A HARLEY AND HEADS TO VEGAS

England’s Prince Harry lit up the

British tabloids this weekend when the

news surfaced of him renting a Harley-

Davidson Softtail Classic and hitting

the road for a weekend party in Vegas,

and hooking up with an unidentified

20-year-old blonde. Just the sort of

thing that American celebrities do all

the time, but not quite the way a proper

member of the Royal Household is

supposed to behave.

The Prince is nearing the end of his eight-week helicopter course at Gila

Bend Air Force base in Imperial Valley, Arizona, where he is undergoing ad-

vanced training as an Apache pilot.

Harry’s security escort was close by, but not hovering so close that he

couldn’t enjoy the desolation of the desert during the ride. The bike was

Page 42 JANUARY 2012 • BACKROADS

The Kitzhof Inn is yourAll-Season Vermont

Home Away from Home

800.388.8310 • www.kitzhofinn.com

Group Packages includeaccommodation

full cooked breakfasts and evening meals.

Fire Pit • Bar/Restaurant in walking distance

332 Rte. 100West Dover, VT

Motorcycle-Friendly Inn on Scenic Route 100 in Vermont

WE ARE OPENFOR BUSINESS

INDUSTRY INFOBITES News from the Inside

rented from Hacienda Harley-Davidson in Scottsdale Arizona.

After the 300 mile trip from Scottsdale to Vegas, the Prince and three

friends were spotted at the Tryst club in the Wynn Casino at 1.30am yester-

day, drinking Grey Goose vodka and dancing with an unidentified blonde.

The group left around 3:30 am. Ah..to be young, beautiful and rich.

2012 AMA INTERNATIONAL WOMEN & MOTORCYCLINGCONFERENCE SET FOR JULY 26-29 IN CARSON CITY, NEV.

Nowhere is the passion and dedication of women motorcyclists more ap-

parent than at an AMA International Women & Motorcycling Conference.

The popular event returns July 26-29, 2012, this time in Carson City, Nev.

— one of the West’s premier motorcycling destinations. The AMA Interna-

tional Women & Motorcycling Conference focuses on educating, encourag-

ing, inspiring and mentoring women in the lifestyle and sport of

motorcycling.

“Regardless of bike brand, riding preference or background, women mo-

torcyclists are bound together by their common passion for life on two and

three wheels,” said AMA Marketing Manager Tigra Tsujikawa. “The AMA

International Women & Motorcycling Conference provides all of us the op-

portunity to connect with, and learn from, other women riders. Through sem-

inars, activities, training classes and organized rides, we’ll work together to

gain knowledge and skills to better navigate where the road or trail leads

next.” Carson City Mayor Pro Tem Shelly Aldean said the conference is a

welcome addition to her city’s 2012 calendar of events. “Carson City is de-

lighted to be hosting the AMA International Women & Motorcycling Con-

ference in July 2012,” she said. “We look forward to accommodating the

attendees participation in the conference. We hope that during their visit, con-

ference goers will spend some time exploring what Carson City has to offer

and, as a result of our hospitality, will feel like honorary members of our

community when it’s finally time to say goodbye.” The sixth AMA Interna-

tional Women & Motorcycling Conference will be held in Carson City, Nev.,

on July 26-29, 2012. Event and lodging information is available at

www.womenandmotorcycling.com.

CRUELTY CHARGE DROPPED FOR RIDING WITH DOG IN THE RAIN

A Marlboro New Jersey man paid $449 in fines and court costs for riding

in the rain with his Boston terrier “Bosco” sitting on a platform behind the

windshield. Gyula Szatmari was originally cited for cruelty to animals, au-

thorities changed the charge to unsafe driving on a deal in which Szatmari

agreed to get a special dog carrier for Bosco.

Szatmari was headed home to Tuckerton from his job in Roselle Park on

Aug. 24 when he was pulled over in the rain on Route 18 in Marlboro. The

56-year-old was issued citations for careless driving and the improper trans-

portation of an animal.

Szatmari admitted to police in August that he had been riding his bike with

his Boston terrier sitting on a platform behind the windshield for years, Mon-

mouth County SPCA Chief Victor “Buddy” Amato told the Asbury Park

Press in August.

Amato, who was the first to spot the biker-dog duo and call police, told

the Asbury Park Press that Szatmari was warned against transporting the dog

this way last year.

COUNTDOWN TO WORLD DUCATI WEEK 2012 STARTS NOW

Announced during Ducati’s recent model year 2012 Press Conference and

Milan International Motorcycle Show, the long-awaited dates and location

for the World Ducati Week 2012 event are now confirmed. Passionate fans

all over the world are invited to join Ducati at the Misano circuit in Italy,

June 21-24, 2012.

First organized in 1998, WDW successfully brought together ‘Ducatisti’

from all over the world to celebrate their shared passion for the legendary

Italian-made motorcycles. The event has since attracted an ever-increasing

attendance of people who enjoy the high-powered fun and community spirit

of the iconic brand, with a record-breaking attendance of 60,000 fans from

5 continents and 28 countries recorded at the last event in 2010.

WDW2012 is sure to follow the tried and tested formula of race track

events, shows, top riders, competitions and great music all combined with

the incredible atmosphere created by thousands of motorcycles arriving from

all around the globe.

For more information please visit www.ducatiusa.com

BACKROADS • JANUARY 2012 Page 43

Page 44 JANUARY 2012 • BACKROADS

Rip & Ride® • CHA CHA HUT BBQNEW ADDRESS: 43311 SR 28, ARKVILLE, NY

845-586-6100 • WWW.CHACHAHUT.COM

GPS DOWNLOAD: WWW.SENDSPACE.COM/FILE/24cety

START: ROUTE 206 NORTH

JUMBOLAND MAKES A GOOD START

RIGHT BEFORE BRIDGE TO CR 521CROSS IN TO NEW YORK AT PORT JERVIS

LEFT AT US 6 OVER SMALL STEEL BRIDGE

PICK-UP ROUTE 97 – HAWKS NEST

RIGHT AT CR 31RIGHT AT CR 42BEAR RIGHT AT CR 43LEFT AT NORTH RD.LEFT AT CR 44 / 45LEFT AT ROUTE 42LEFT AT T TO BROADWAY

BEAR LEFT AT ROUTE 17BRIGHT AT ROUTE 52BEAR LEFT AT CR 128CROSS CR 122 TO DYKER RD

SLOW FOR ANIMAL SANCTUARY

RIGHT AT BAYER RD.LEFT AT CR 122 / 123BECOMES CR 124CROSS UNDER ROUTE 17 TO ROSCOE

RIGHT AT ROUTE 206RIGHT AT ROUTE 30 - PEPACTON RESERVOIR

RIGHT ONTO CR 28 TOWARDS ARKVILLE

CHA CHA HUT NEAR RAILROAD TRACKS

Rip & Ride® • ELK MOUNTAIN HOMESTEAD401 HOMESTEAD DRIVE , BENEZETTE, PA 15821814-787-5168 • EXPERIENCEELKCOUNTRY.COM

PICK UP ROUTE 6 WEST OF SCRANTON, PABEAR LEFT AT ROUTE 87LEFT AT ROUTE 220RIGHT AT ROUTE 154 – WORLD’S END STATE PARK

LEFT AT ROUTE 14 – GROVER

RIGHT AT SR 2017 – OGDENSBURG RD

LEFT AT ROUTE 414RIGHT AT SR N 44 TO HAINEYVILLE

LEFT AT SR 1014 TO HYNER STATE PARK

RIGHT AT ROUTE 120 PAST RENOVO

BEAR LEFT AT ROUTE 555 TO BENEZETTE

FOLLOW RIGHT PAST HOTEL

CONTINUE UP HILL TO VISITOR CENTER

Rip & Ride® • THE FORKLIFT CAFÉ1831 RTE. 739, DINGMANS FERRY, PA 18238

570-82-1920 • WWW.FORKLIFTCAFE.COM • 100 MI. O/WGPS DOWNLOAD: WWW.SENDSPACE.COM/FILE/vraqbl

START: RED APPLE REST, RTE. 1, SOUTHFIELDS, NYRIGHT OUT OF LOT

LEFT AT CR 19LEFT AT BRAMERTOWN RD.LEFT AT BENJAMIN MEADOWS RD.RIGHT AT RTE. 17ALEFT AT RTE. 94RIGHT AT CR 644 VERNON CROSSING RD

LEFT AT CR 517RIGHT AT CR 641 DREW MOUNTAIN

LEFT AT CR 565RIGHT AT RTE. 23LEFT AT CR 565 LEWISBURG RD.RIGHT AT CR 565STRAIGHT TO CR 628BEAR RIGHT AT CR 519 NORTH

LEFT AT RTE. 23 NORTH OVER HIGH POINT

LEFT AT US 6 RIGHT AT SR 80 NEVERSINK DR.

BEFORE STEEL DECK BRIDGE

RIGHT AT RTE. 209LEFT AT PEENPACK TRAIL

LEFT AT RTE. 42RIGHT AT RTE. 97LEFT AT RTE. 55 TO SHOHOLA, PABEAR LEFT TO TWIN LAKES RD.LEFT AT US 6 EAST

FIRST RIGHT TO RAYMONDSKILL RD.RIGHT AT SR 2001 MILFORD RD.LEFT AT RTE 739 TOWARDS DINGMANS

THE FORK LIFT IS ON THE RIGHT

BACKROADS • JANUARY 2012 Page 45

SUSSEXMOTORSPORTS446 Route 23 • Sussex, NJ • Located across from the A&P Shopping Plaza

Visit us at www.sussexmotorsportsnj.com

973-875-3640 • Open Tuesday thru Saturday

Rip & Ride® • POCONO INDIAN MUSEUMROUTE 209, BUSHKILL, PA • 65 MILE O/W

570-588-9338 • WWW.POCONOINDIANMUSEUMONLINE.COM

GPS DOWNLOAD: WWW.SENDSPACE.COM/FILE/BCZ0IO

START: EXIT 12 ROUTE 80, HOPE, NJRIGHT AT SILVER LAKE ROAD

RIGHT AT ROUTE 94 NORTH

LEFT AT SPRING VALLEY RD CR 659RIGHT AT CR 521STAY ON CR 521 TO RTE. 206 LEFT AT RTE. 206 NORTH

LEFT ON STRUBLE ROAD

LEFT AT 4-WAY INTERSECTION - MOUNTAIN ROAD

GRAVEL ROAD – TO BUTTERMILK FALLS ON LEFT

CONTINUE TO NPR 615 – MAKE RIGHT

BEAR LEFT AT PETER’S VALLEY ON OLD MINE ROAD

SHARP LEFT AT CR 560 - CROSS DINGMANS BRIDGE

STRAIGHT AT RTE. 739LEFT AT MILFORD ROAD

BEAR LEFT AT BROADHEAD ROAD

RIGHT AT RTE. 209POCONO INDIAN MUSEUM ON RIGHT

Rip & Ride® • GLEN IRIS INNLETCHWORTH STATE PARK, CASTILE, NEW YORK 14427

585-493-2622 • WWW.GLENIRISINN.COM

THIS IS AN ALL DAY RIDE PREPARE FOR AN OVERNIGHT

YOU CAN START AT PORT JERVIS, NYOR GET TO ROUTE 97 NORTH TOWARDS NARROWSBURG

STRAIGHT AT RTE. 52 (BLINKING LIGHT..USE DIRECTIONALS)

OVER BRIDGE RIGHT IMMEDIATELY AFTER THE BRIDGE

TAKE RIVER RD. SR 1017 / 1004LEFT AT RTE. 371LEFT AT RTE. 374RIGHT AT RTE. 106 TO KINGSLEY

CROSS RTE. 11 TO SR 2024(FOLLOW BROOKLYN SIGN)STRAIGHT AT SR 3023 TO RUSH

LEFT AT RTE. 706RIGHT AT RTE. 409RIGHT AT US 6 LEFT AT T IN TOWANDA

P/U RTE. 220 SOUTH

RIGHT ON RTE. 414STRAIGHT ON RTE. 287RIGHT ON RTE. 660 TO WELLSBORO

RTE. 6 WEST

RIGHT AT RTE. 449LEFT AT RTE. 19BECOMES RTE. 19ATO LETCHWORTH STATE PARK

Rip & Ride® • THE SARATOGA BATTLEFIELD

RTE. 32 OR RTE. 4 • SOUTH OF SARATOGA, NY

FROM LAKE GEORGE SOUTH ON RTE. 9RIGHT ON GURNEY LANE

LEFT ON RTE. 58 WEST MOUNTAIN RD.BEAR RIGHT AT RTE. 28 CORINTH RD.STRAIGHT AT RTE. 32 CALL ST.LEFT AT RTE. 16LEFT AT RTE. 9NSTRAIGHT AT MAN ST.RIGHT AT RTE. 24 / 101LEFT AT RTE. 32SOUTH THROUGH SARATOGA TO BATTLEFIELD

EVERY MONTH - WEATHER PERMITTINGEvery Sunday • Eastern Suffolk ABATE Breakfast Run. Crossroads Diner - Calverton NY.10:30am. Eat and Ride After • 631-369-2221

First Sunday of the month • Layton Meet at the Layton Deli, corner of Dingmans/Be-vans Rd, CR 560, Layton, NJ. Meet around 8am – breakfast available. Join others for aride or head out on your own

Every Tuesday • The Ear - Spring St, NYC. Come meet some fellow riders and do somebenchracing or whatever. 8pm-ish

Third Tuesday • 7:30pm ABATE of the Garden State, North Jersey chapter. Black RiverBarn, 1178 Rt. 10 West, Randolph, NJ. 7:30pm. New members and all mc brands wel-come. Help fight for rights as a motorcyclist in NJ! Alex Martinez 973-390-1918

JANUARY 20126-8 • North American International Motorcycle Supershow, International Centre, Toronto,Canada • supershowevents.com • 888-661-7469

13-15 • Progressive International Motorcycle Show. Washington DC • www.motorcy-cleshows.com

20-22 • The Progressive International Motorcycle Shows at the Jacob K. Javits ConventionCenter • www.motorcycleshows.com • Jacob K. Javits Convention Center, 655West 34th Street, New York • Friday, January 20, 12 p.m. – 9 p.m., Saturday, Jan-uary 21, 9 a.m. – 9 p.m., Sunday, January 22, 9 a.m. – 5 p.m. • Save an extra $2when you purchase your ticket online by using the promo code SAVES2.

FEBRUARY 201224-26 • The Montreal Motorcycle Show, Montreal Convention Centre, Montreal, Canada.www.salonmotomontreal.com

MAY 201217-20 • Backroads’ Spring Break XIV. Join us for our fourteenth Spring Break as we headsouth to Luray, Virginia. We’ll stay at the historic Mimslyn Inn (540-743-5105 •www.mimslyninn.com • mention Backroads Group for discount) which has 80years in hospitality and is home to some of the best riding in the area. For additionaloverflow lodging please call the Best Western at 540-743-6511.

May 17-20 • Concours Owners Group Northeast Spring Fling Rally - Westerly, RI. Timeto coincide with a national motorcycle accessory vendor’s open house at their new facil-ity. Rally fee includes group banquet dinner Friday night. Discount for COG members andearly registration. For more information contact Brian at bdfelice@cox.net or 401-828-3354. Check out the COG Northeast calendar at www.cog-online.org or visit the rallywebpage at tinyurl.com/COGSpringFling2012

POLAR BEAR SCHEDULE 2011-12To check on Polar Bear cancellations & updates call A.M.A. Dis. #2 Ph. # 908-722-0128.Sign-in is from 11:30 am to 1:30 pm unless otherwise posted. Check the New Memberpage for general information about the Polar Bear Grand Tour • www.polarbeargrand-tour.com/rides

January 8, 2012 • De THOMASI’s EAST 5 POINTS INN, 580 Tuckahoe Rd, Vineland,NJ 08360 Ph.# 856-691-6080 • www.fivepointsinn.com

January 15, 2012 • WEARHOUSE GRILL, 161 Rte. 181, Lake Hopatcong, NJ Ph #973-663-2222.

January 22, 2012 • SIR JOHN’S, 230 Washington Place, North Brunswick TWP, NJ.08902 Ph # 732 297-3803 • sirjohnsinc.com

January 29, 2012 • THE EXCHANGE, 160 E. Main St., Rockaway, NJ 07866 Ph # 973-627-8488 • www.exchangefood.com

February 5, 2012 • THE FRANKLIN HOUSE TAVERN, 101 Market Street, Schaefferstown,PA 17088 Ph. # 717 949-2122 • franklinhousetavern.com

Take Rte. 897 (also Rte 419) to Schaefferstown. It will be on your right at 897 and MarketStreet.

February 12, 2012 • PIC-A-LILLI INN 866 Route 206 Shamong NJ Ph. # 609 268-2066• picalilli.com

From the north take Rte 206 South, pass Rte. 70 go 9 miles Pic-A-Lilli Inn on left. Fromthe south @ Rte. 30 & 206 go north on Rte. 206 for 8.5 miles Pic-A-Lilli on left.

February 19, 2012 • HOOTERS, 25 Rte 23 South, Wayne, NJ 07470 Ph# 973-837-1876.

At intersection of Rte 46 & Rte 23 take Rte 23 South (approx. 0.2 mile) just past themall; Hooters is on the right. www.hootersnj.com

February 26, 2012 • BAHRS LANDING, 2 Bay Ave., Highlands, NJ 07732 PH# 732-872-1245.

From East take Rte 36 West over Highland bridge; immediately over bridge make verysharp right turn down hill into parking lot. From West take Rte 36 East toward Highlandbridge; Just before bridge, make right turn then a quick left turn down the hill to BayAve; make left turn under bridge into parking lot • www.bahrs.com

March 4, 2012 • FIREHOUSE EATERY, 455 Saint Georges Ave. Rahway, NJ 07065 Ph#732 382-9500 • www.firehouseeatery.com

Take G.S.P. to exit 131 (not 131A) to Rte 27; turn left on Rte 27 North; go 2.6 miles, takeleft onto Rte 35 (AKA St Georges Ave); go 0.3 mile; Firehouse Restaurant is on the right.

March 11, 2012 • LONG VALLEY PUB & BREWERY, 1 Fairmount Rd., Long Valley, NJ07853 • 908-876-1122 • www.brewpubnj.com • www.restaurantvillageatlongvalley.com

From Rte 206 in Chester, take Rte 24 West (Rte 513); go 4.5 miles to Long Valley; Makeleft at light at Rte 517; immediately on right, first parking lot is the Long Valley Pub.

March 18, 2012 • THE CHATTERBOX, #1 Rte 15 South, Augusta, NJ 07822 Ph#973-300-2300 • www.chatterboxdrivein.com

From South, take Rte 206 North to Rte 15, Ross Corner; The Chatter Box immediatelyon right at the intersection; enter from driveway about 300 feet before the intersection.From the North take Rte 565 to intersection with Rte 15, Ross Corner; go straight; drive-way into the Chatterbox is on the left.

March 25, 2012 • BRIAN’S HARLEY-DAVIDSON, 600 S. Flowers Mill Rd., LanghornePA Ph# 215 752-9400 • www.brianshd.com

PA. Rte 95 South take exit 44 (stay left) left at light on Rte. 413 - 2nd light make left onS. Flowers Mill Rd. PA Route 95 North Exit 44 stay to left - left at 1st light on S. FlowersMill Rd.

April 1, 2012 • CHEEBURGER CHEEBURGER, 100 Reaville Ave. Flemington NJ 08822Phone # 908-782-9000 • www.cheeburger.com

From the south take Rte 202 north. Make right at the last light before the circle. Chee-burger Cheeburger will be on your left. From the North take Rte 202 through Flemington.At the first light after Northlandz (Grate American Railway), take the jug handle acrossRte 202 onto Case Blvd. Stay on Case Blvd. It becomes Reaville Ave. Cheeburger Chee-burger will be on your Right.

April 15, 2012 • CAPE MAY V.F.W. post #386, N.J. 419 Congress St., Cape May, N.J.08204 Ph# 609-884-7961.

CLASS Motorcycle School 2012 DatesMar 30 Fri Streets of Willow $195 A & B season opener

April 19 Thu Streets of Willow $225 A & B both days: $450

April 20 Fri Streets of Willow $250 A & B

May 1 Tues Infineon Raceway $345 A & B Just 2 groups

May 10 Thu Streets of Willow D-Day! Two-day CLASS • 12 rider limit, $1299

May 11 Fri Streets of Willow

June 30 Sat Gingerman $275 A & B

July 4 Wed Virginia Int'l VIR $345 A & B

July 5 Thu Virginia Int'l VIR $345 A & B

Aug 20 Mon Oregon Raceway $295 A & B

Aug 21 Tue Oregon Raceway $275 A & B

Sept 3 Mon Streets of Willow $250 A & B Labor Day

Sept 4 Tue Streets of Willow $225 A & B both days: $450

Sept 27 Thu Streets of Willow D-Day! Two-day CLASS • 12 rider limit, $1299

Sept 28 Fri Streets of Willow

Oct tba Infineon Raceway $345 A & B

Oct 15 Mon Willow Springs $250 A & B Big Track

Oct 25 Thu Streets of Willow $225 A & B Force 5 FREE!+

Oct 26 Fri Streets of Willow $250 A & B both days: $450

Nov 9 Fri Streets of Willow $225 A & B Returning this year: $195

Page 46 JANUARY 2012 • BACKROADS

UPCOMING EVENTS CALENDAR What’s Happening

BACKROADS • JANUARY 2012 Page 47

M O T O R C Y C L E M A R K E T P L A C E ALL THAT GOOD STUFF

Hudson Valley’s

Number One Riding

Barbeque Restaurant

Located on Picturesque Route 9W

minutes from Perkins Drive

and Harriman State Park

just south of historic West Point

1076 Route 9W North

Fort Montgomery, NY

845-446-0912

www.barnstormerbbq.com

Celebrate the Holidays withsome awesome barbeque!

If you go home hungryit’s your own fault

The Boat House

Restaurant

Join us for Brunch, Lunch

or Dinner overlooking

Swartswood Lake

1040 Cty Rd 521 • Swartswood, NJ

973-300-0016

www.theboathouserestaurantonline.com

Member

Tuesday ~ Sunday 11am-9pm

Brunch 10am-2pm • Closed Mondays

Check for seasonal hours

Excellent Ride Destination

‘50s-Style Drive-In RestaurantFull and Varied Menu

Room for the Whole Gang

Located at Ross’ Corners • 1 Route 15 • Augusta NJ • 973-300-2300

www.chatterboxdrivein.com

Celebrate the Holiday Season at the motorcycle-friendly

THE CHATTERBOX DRIVE-INGREAT FOOD • GOOD TIMES • EXCELLENT RIDING

Gift Cards available.Make great stocking stuffers.

320 Front Street, Belvidere, NJ • 908-475-2274 • www.thisilldous.com

Open Daily for Breakfast and Beyond • 7am to 4pm • Sunday 7am to 1pm

Try our Full Throttle Breakfast Special every Saturday + Sunday

Worth the ride from anywhere!

Join Us for 1st Friday Celebration

1st Friday of each month

from 6 to 9pm

Live Music • Dinner Specials

Sharing your passion for good food since 1983

Member of

DAYTONA, BIKETOBERFEST,STURGIS AND BEYOND

MOTORCYCLE TRAILERS

BARN TRAILERS718-426-7039 • www.barntruckrental.com

57-05 BROADWAY • WOODSIDE NY 11377 (OFF THE BQE & LIE)

SALESRENTALS

GenMarHANDLEBAR R ISERS

KAWASAKI • HONDA • YAMAHA • SUZUKI • TRIUMPH • MOTO GUZZI • ETCRaise your handlebars for a more comfortable ride and still retain stock look.

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Order Toll Free (877) 471-1515Info and Fax (505) 743-2243 • www.zianet.com/GenMar

Gen Mar Mfg. Inc. • 110 1st Street • HC1 Box 35 • Arrey, NM 87930

www.stopngo.comThe Best Tire Repair.Know Before You Go!

800-747-0238718 Main St, Boonton, NJ973.335.0255 • www.PCPS.com

Who do you thinkkeeps Backroads’

computers running?

Sussex Hills Ltd.

973-875-2048946 Rte. 23 SouthSussex NJ 074613 miles north of Sussex Borough

Norman GrossSince 1976

Our Reputation Speaks for Itself

Specializing in Motorcycle

Repair, Parts & Supplies •

Cycle Tires Mounted & Bal-

anced • Batteries & Hard

Parts • Dynojet 250 Dyno

available for testing

For All Your Harley-Davidson Needs

Now stocking a full line of heated gearGet ready for some cool riding.

AMERICANA SOFT SEATSCustom Gel Pad InstallationOn Any Motorcycle Seat

Harley Davidson, Honda, Suzuki, YamahaLowest Prices AnywhereWE GUARANTEE IT!!!!

732-406-9508 • www.amsss.com • www.americanasoftseats.com

Page 48 JANUARY 2012 • BACKROADS

M O T O R C Y C L E M A R K E T P L A C E ALL THAT GOOD STUFF

If you didn’t like cool stuff,

you wouldn’t be reading

this magazine.

Here’s something

you’re going to love.

TORQ-ITScrewdriver/Speed Wrench/ Palm Ratchet

All In One Tool

Variable Speeds Over 600RPMLow Profile, with an “Ergo” Grip and a Non-Slip DesignAccepts All 3/8” and 1/4” Sockets and Extensions

BASIC SET: $19.95 • DELUXE SET: $29.95 • ACCESORY SET: $9.95

TORQ-IT PRODUCTS, INC. 1701 Manor Road • Havertown PA 19083Tel: 1.888.876.9555 • Visit Our New Website: WWW.TORQ-IT.COM

www.beemerboneyard.comUSED OILHEAD & K-BIKE PARTSHundreds of used parts at 50% off new cost or lessOrder online 24/7 ~ M/C, Visa, Discover or PayPal

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NEW MAINTENANCE PART ~ BELOW RETAILNo Backorders ~ We Stock What We SellWe now carry German Liqui-Moly Engine & Gear Oil for BMWs

973-775-3495 • M-F 12pm~5pm • inquires@beemerboneyard.com

LEGAL HELP?MOTORCYCLE ACCIDENT?

• Car Accident • Work Accident • Criminal Matter

• Drunk Driving • Speeding Tickets • Traffic Violations

I Have Recovered Millionsfor My Clients - Let Me Help You

No Fee If No Recovery • No Fee to Talk on Any Legal Issue

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BACKROADS • JANUARY 2012 Page 49

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Page 50 JANUARY 2012 • BACKROADS

Great ExplorationsDiscovering Ontario’s Ottawa Valley Region

Pamela Collins

Like Samuel de Champlain 400 years ago, we landed amidst Canada’s great landscapewith similar objectives: explore, discover, and report your findings.Unlike Samuel de Champlain, we didn’t bushwhack through uncharted, inhospitable ter-ritory. Paved roadways eased our path while two- and four-cylinder machines propelledour travel. You see, we were invited explorers, journalists on motorcycles and guests of the region,fresh-eyed and opinionless. The Ottawa Valley, Canada, Tourist Association believes mo-torcyclists and their regional roads belong together like Harley-Davidson and chrome, orDucati and red. It invited us for a tour to see if we agreed.

So, much like de Champlain, or

Joliet, or LaSalle or the other

famed explorers of this region, we

set off to see what we could see.

Like them, we journeyed through

miles of thick forests, passed acres

of open, lolling land, and braved a

ravaging river. True, we enjoyed

much easier going than the folks

500 years ago. But in some ways,

not much differed at all.

The grand city of Ottawa hosted

our arrival and departure.

Canada’s capital city hosts a col-

orful menagerie of cultures befitting its status…it’s the Canadian version of

the United States’ Washington, D.C. after all. Ottawa offers up a globally-

flavored stew, heavily seasoned with the French accents of its neighboring

province Quebec and simmered in the tasty stock of its home province, On-

tario. Centuries of history garnish its plate, and though most of the earlier

explorers passed through its doors, with today’s grand buildings and lines of

traffic it bears little resemblance to the frontier, edge-of-the-world town they

once knew.

Thanks to Deeley Harley-Davidson of Canada, Honda Canada and BMW

Motorrad Canada that provided the rides for our group of eight. That sweaty

June afternoon we threaded through traffic out of Ot-

tawa’s bustle to the more peaceful and open byways of

Ottawa Valley. Ahhh— countryside, space, and roads

begging you to open the throttle. Destination—the Cal-

abogie Peaks Resort, about 62 miles from Ottawa.

During the winter Calabogie boogies as home to

Eastern Ontario’s highest vertical ski and snowboard

resort. During our visit it wore a decidedly more serene,

demure demeanor, with wildflowers decorating its

grass and dragonflies flitting through its air. The full-

service Calabogie Peaks Lodge has an on-site restau-

rant serving up delicious meals. The resort sits amidst

a spider web of roads inviting you to lose yourself in

land that remains much the way it always has. We spent

the better part of the next day having fun doing just

that—losing ourselves—a wrong turn here, a U-turn

there, it didn’t matter. The lakes sparkled with sunshine,

the thick pines pierced the sky-

line, and the roads were naked

of traffic.

This oldest-settled region of

Canada wants motorcyclists to

know we’re more than welcome

here, and Calabogie makes a

great base station to launch

some two-wheeled exploration.

Two cautionary notes though—

this is the far north and the roads

reflect that. Major highways are

in good repair, but the smaller

side roads reflect the harsh

weather’s browbeating. Potholes frequently dot the roads, and gravel

stretches appear out of the blue, so speedy riders be forewarned. The other

caveat—Canada’s infamous, notorious and nearly-invisible black flies

abound in June, so consider scheduling your trip after that.

Our day of meandering through this area of Calabogie and the Greater

Madawaska Valley led us to the quaint town of Burnside and lunch at the an-

tique-filled Blackbird Café. We then visited the nearby Calabogie Motor-

sports Park, which rises, mirage-like, from the valley’s thick woods. We took

two laps on its 3.05-mile challenging track that winds around and about the

forest, feeling like we literally raced through the woods.

BACKROADS • JANUARY 2012 Page 51

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A River Runs Through ItFollowing our brief stint as track divas we took to the “regular” roads

again, riding to our overnight accommodations at the London House Inn &

Spa at the RiverRun Rafting and Wilderness Resort in Beachburg, Ontario,

and completing nearly 190 miles of riding that day. What began as a guided

whitewater rafting trip business nestled alongside the Ottawa River has

grown into a full-fledged adventure resort offering comfortable accommo-

dations, spa services, a pub, as well as the thrill of running through the wash-

ing machine spin cycle commonly referred to as white water rafting.

Now comes the “ravaging

river” part of our explo-

ration, as several of us did

rise to the challenge of “run-

ning” the Ottawa. Let it suf-

fice to say the famed

“Bus-eater” rapid became a

moto-journalist eating rapid

that cloudy, windy, forty-de-

gree day, as the Ottawa River

showed no mercy by tossing us into its

swirling cauldron of waves and rocks. Not

to worry as the expert guides (and outboard

motor-powered Zodiac boat) saved our wa-

terlogged hides so we could ride another day

to pursue our stories. However we finished

our trip with bragging rights, now claiming

we at least attempted to tame the largest

commercially-surfed North American rapid

at its highest runnable water level. We patted ourselves on our collective

backs while soaking in the more rider-friendly swirling waters of the Inn’s

hot tub.

Back on the more familiar (and dryer) transportation of our motorcycles,

we rode back in time… waaay back… to about 450,000 years ago when we

visited Bonnechere Caves near Eganville, Ontario. Back then the caves

weren’t much more than muck, but that was when a tropical sea hid most of

this continent. A couple eons and climatic changes later that mud and shell

mixture hardened into the limestone caves that now form Bonnechere. Walk-

ing through these damp underground passages gives the phrase “weight of

the world” new meaning, as you look at the time-hardened walls bracing the

caves, housing the fos-

silized outlines of crea-

tures that lived before the

dinosaurs.

Back above ground we

fast forwarded more than

a few centuries to around

1850, when we traveled

part of the historic series

of roads known as the

Opeongo Line. Early Pol-

ish, Irish and Scotch set-

tlers, having received land

grants from the government to settle this northeastern inte-

rior part of Canada, followed this government-carved set-

tlement road as they made their way to stake their claims.

They had tough going, and then tough living, in this unfor-

giving countryside with thick forests and poor, rocky soil.

We followed the Highway 64 portion of the nearly 95-

mile long Opeongo line, which escorted us through quaint

villages, pine-tree crowded forests and into miles of seclu-

sion dotted by ghost-town like remnants of settlements. We

rode upwards in elevation toward the Madawaska High-

lands enjoying the randomness of the scenery…weathered

barns, prim farmhouses, rolling hayfields and dark green

forests strung together like charms on a bracelet. At first glance it seems the

21st century has bypassed the region, leaving it intact—a living miles-long

historical artifact.

Page 52 JANUARY 2012 • BACKROADS

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A turn off Highway 64 to

66 brings you to the cross-

roads with Route 60 and the

town of Wilno, Canada’s

first Polish settlement, dat-

ing to 1858. People from the

Kashubian region of Poland

settled this unforgiving terri-

tory, and the tidy, colorful

town today celebrates its

unique cultural heritage. The

open air Polish Kashub Her-

itage Museum and Park ex-

plains the history of the people

and this special culture that

thrives in this tiny community

yet today.

We finished our 125-mile

trek that day with the glorious

expanse of Golden Lake reach-

ing out to us, lapping at the

shore behind our hotel, the

Sands on Golden Lake. Begin-

ning and ending that day with

the water as our focal point seemed appropriate. Rivers

and lakes have been and still are important to the re-

gion—they once lured settlers, now they beckon

tourists.

Algonquin’s Natural BeautyOur next day’s plans included more than 300 miles

that took us through Algonquin Provincial Park (similar

to a U.S. national park). Algonquin claims notoriety

for two reasons. It is Canada’s first Provincial Park. It

is also extremely secluded with only one main road,

Route 60, called the Parkway Corridor, slicing he

southern part of its 2,946 square mile expanse (High-

way 17, the Trans-Canada Highway or Champlain

Highway skirts near its northern boundary but doesn’t

bisect the park). Hikers or canoeists can use old fash-

ioned propulsion methods to navigate its interior, but

we two-wheeled enthusiasts, limited by blacktop, have

fewer options.

A log-framed entrance on route 60 welcomes you

into this colorful wilderness. The park boasts over

2,400 lakes and 750 miles of streams and rivers deco-

rating its breadth with blue-jewel tones echoed in the

sky above. Silvery-white rocky outcroppings and the

trees’ emerald lushness decorate the ride like gems of

a prized, heirloom necklace. Overlooks abound to let

you soak in the sights, and a visitor’s center and logging

museum let you delve more deeply into the history and

scope of Algonquin. You’ll notice little commercialism

here—not even signs—the park prides itself on keeping

things “natural.”

All too soon we rode out

of the wild wonderland

and headed to North Bay,

where we had a lunch date

with mayor Al McDonald,

a motorcyclist himself who

rode his Harley-Davidson

bagger to our soiree. Early

on, North Bay served as a

stop on the western canoe

route from Montreal, later

it became an important

stop on the railroad. It probably gained its largest chunk of notoriety for

the Dionne quintuplets being born near here in 1934.

As we trekked over the Highway 17 east toward the Quality Inn and

Suites in Petawawa for our evening’s stay, I thought about that early ex-

plorer from whom this road derives its nickname “the Champlain High-

way.” This year marks the 400th anniversary of that dangerous journey.

But, swinging my eyes side to side as I rolled along, it seemed he might

not be too surprised by what he would see today. True, a lot has changed,

but I think he would find the trees, the sky, the lakes and rivers, pretty

familiar, if not recognizable.

The next day dawned damp and gloomy for our hike to see Barron

Canyon in the Algonquin Park, just a short drive from Petawawa. We

searched for moose and other wildlife as we rode…via a van over the

BACKROADS • JANUARY 2012 Page 53

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mud and gravelly road… deeper into the arms of the

forest. We came prepared to fight the critters…armed

with bug repellant and mosquito-netted bug-guard

hats, gifts from the Ottawa Valley Tourism Associa-

tion. We laughed when we received them at the trip’s

beginning, but after a few days realized the black

flies and mosquitos where nothing to joke about. We

donned our gear and sprayed ourselves silly, then

scampered up the path to witness a gorgeous red-

walled rock canyon 300 feet deep.

The Barron River cut its path through here, starting

centuries ago, slowly sculpting the gorge we see

today. The nearly mile-long hiking trail actually leads

you to the canyon’s rim, where you can (carefully)

peek over the edge to see the river rushing below.

That drizzly morning, with mist rising from the

canyon’s walls and a hush spread throughout the air, seemed otherworldly

and magical.

After a quick bite of the local delicacy…poutine…French fries smothered

with gravy and cheese curds, we mounted our bikes for the return ride to Ot-

tawa. Our last night would feel like something truly out of a fairy tale, for

we stayed in a castle.

Once Upon A TimeThe Fairmont Chateau Laurier dates to 1912 and you feel like royalty en-

tering its ornate doors. Gilt and carving decorate everything, giving it an au-

thentic French chateau feeling. We ventured out to explore Ottawa…the

famed Rideau Canal, known for turning into a wintertime skating arena, and

the Canadian government’s Parliament building… sit within a stone’s throw

of the Chateau Laurier. Huge amounts of security don’t surround the impor-

tant government buildings and we wandered all around our northern neigh-

bor’s capital complex, enjoying the exquisite ar-

chitecture and sculptures that decorate the

grounds. We then headed for the city’s market

area, where food and nightlife reigned that

warm, summery, Saturday evening.

So we journalists explored and discovered

in order to report our findings…mission ac-

complished. During the trip I thought often

about those brave souls of centuries ago who

established the paths we followed this trip,

of the settlers who forged a living along the

highways we rode. I thought about the

beauty of the Ottawa Valley we experienced,

its abundance, its stubbornness to fade or

transform. Modern day has swirled through

its air, leaving just the lightest touch of influ-

ence. De Champlain’s spirit persists.

So, whether for foot- and boat-powered

explorers then, or two-wheeled explorers

now, the Ottawa Valley offers much to lure

discoverers of all types.

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For More Information:

Places to Stay:

Calabogie Peaks Resortwww.calabogie.com

London House Inn & Spa(located at RiverRun Rafting Resort)

www.londonhouseinn.com • www.riverrunrafting.com

Sands on Golden Lake Inn & Resortwww.sandsongoldenlake.com

Petawawa Quality Inn & Suiteswww.petawawaqualityinnandsuites.com

Fairmont Chateau Laurierwww.fairmont.com/laurier

Things to Do:

Ottawa Valley Tourist Associationwww.ottawavalley.org

Calabogie Motorsports Parkwww.calabogiemotorsports.com

Bonnechere Caveswww.bonnecherecaves.com

Polish Kashub Heritage Park/Museumwww.wilno.org

Algonquin Provincial Park & Barron Canyonwww.algonquinpark.on.ca

For Ontario Canada Motorcycle Touring Information:www.gorideontario.com/motorcycle

BACKROADS • JANUARY 2012 Page 55

Where in the world will

we take you next!Join the Backroads crew February 12-19, 2012

as we take on Colombia! 8 days/7 nightsof pure adventure.

Visit Motolombia website for full details.

*Buy a new unregistered 2011 GSX1250FA or V-Strom 650 ABS from an authorized Suzuki dealer and get the option topurchase a pair of Genuine Suzuki Accessories Saddlebags and Mounts for $199, a retail value of $1,085. This promotionis valid from 8/1/2011 – 3/31/2012. At Suzuki, we want every ride to be safe and enjoyable. So always wear a helmet, eyeprotection and protective clothing. Never ride under the influence of alcohol or other drugs. Avoid excessive speeds. Neverengage in stunt riding. Study your owner’s manual and always inspect your Suzuki before riding. Take a riding skills course.For the course nearest you call the Motorcycle Safety Foundation at 1-800-446-9227. Suzuki, the “S” logo, and Suzukimodel and product names are Suzuki Trademarks or ®. © American Suzuki Motor Corporation 2011.

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