Innovations and Trends of the Chinese Local Brand Cosmetics with Natural...

中国本土品牌的草本化妆品研发创新及发展趋势

Innovations and Trends of the Chinese local brand Cosmetics with natural herbs

上海相宜本草化妆品股份有限公司 Shanghai Inoherb Cosmetics Co. Ltd.

胡国胜 HU Guosheng

mintel.com

Retail market value in local currency

2 * Estimated values based on China Skin Care NPLs in first two quarters of 2012

Source: Mintel GNPD

Highlights The 面部护理产品零售 (中国) market increased in value by 10.2% in 2013. Market value in 2013 was 70,798.2 m CNY. The strongest growth in recent years for 面部护理产品零售 (中国) was in 2007, with a rate of 22.8%.

mintel.com

Trends of China Skin Care NPLs by Top 10 Claims

3

2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013

Moisturising / Hydrating 11.6% 12.3% 21.0% 22.0% 22.12% 23.06%

Botanical/Herbal 12.6% 10.8% 19.1% 21.5% 22.07% 22.35%

Whitening 7.0% 5.3% 8.5% 10.2% 11.04% 11.11%

Time/Speed 1.2% 5.7% 9.6% 10.9% 10.06% 10.13%

Anti-Ageing 3.7% 3.6% 7.6% 8.8% 9.02% 9.15%

Vitamin/Mineral Fortified 5.4% 4.1% 6.2% 5.8% 5.43% 5.22%

Long-Lasting* 1.4% 3.7% 7.8% 7.8% 7.6% 7.4%

Brightening / Illuminating* 2.1% 3.5% 7.2% 6.5% 6.4% 6.7%

Cleansing* 3.6% 3.2% 5.3% 4.4% 4.1% 4.2%

Reduces Fine Lines /

Wrinkles* 2.2% 2.6% 5.0% 5.9% 6.3% 6.3%

中国的天然本草化妆品

Natural Herbal Cosmetics in China • 添加天然本草中提取的有效成分

Active ingredients from herbs

• 具有于此相关的功效宣称 Related claims

• 符合化妆品技术要求 Technical specification of Cosmetics

天然本草化妆品的现状 The present situation of the Natural herbal Cosmetics

• 中国市场快速增长(Rapid growth in China) ：在绿色、环保、崇尚自然、回归自然理念的推动下，天然植物类化妆品在中国市

场的增长远超过普通化妆品的增长速度，2008的增长率为12.6%, 2013年的增长率为22.35%。

Driven by the concept of green, environmental protection, respect for nature and back to nature, the natural herbal cosmetics has its growth rate n the Chinese market much more than that of ordinary cosmetics, with the growth rate of 12.6% in 2008 and 22.35%, in 2013.

在中国，增长最快的主要为含中草药的化妆品，国际品牌除了采用国外流行的植

物成分（金缕梅、洋甘菊、薰衣草、迷迭香等）外，也开始介入中药领域 (金银花、野菊花、人参、甘草、首乌、生姜)。

In China, the cosmetics that is growing fast is the one containing Chinese herbalmedicine, and the international brands, with the foreign popular plant components (witch hazel, chamomile, lavender, rosemary, etc.) have also begun to march into the field of traditional Chinese medicine (honeysuckle, wild chrysanthemum, ginseng, licorice, fleece-flower root, ginger).

天然本草化妆品的现状 The present situation of the Natural herbal Cosmetics

• 中国市场快速增长(Rapid growth in China) ：目前常用的为普通提取物（一般没有成分标准）、有效成分提取物（有主要

有效成分含量标准）、混合提取物（多种植物混合物，有的是按照中药古代养颜方剂配制的提取物）。

The commonly used ingredients are ordinary extracts (generally, the composition standards are unavailable), extracts of active ingredients (the main standards on active ingredients’ contents are available), mixed extracts (a variety of plant mixtures, some of which are extracted based on the ancient beauty prescription of China).

天然本草产物在化妆品中应用的现状 The present situation of the Natural herbal Cosmetics

• 新技术的应用(Application of New technology)：超临界萃取、分子蒸馏、微波提取技术等等； Supercritical extracts, molecular distillation, microwave extraction technology, etc. 分子修饰、改性； Molecular modification 天然等同物； Nature identical 载体技术的应用：脂质体、微囊； Application of carrier technology: liposomes, microcapsules; 转基因植物和植物组织细胞培养。 Cultivation of transgenic plants and plants’ tissues 用于改善天然植物成分的安全性、稳定性、相容性、有效性、促进渗透和吸收、

降低成本，改善资源状况。 For improving the security, stability, compatibility and effectiveness of natural herbs, for facilitating the penetration and absorption, for reducing the costs and for

enhancing the situation of resources .


• 相关法规的影响(Related Regulations)：对化妆品宣称的限制《化妆品命名规定》：中草药、汉方、中药、药方、药

用植物等被列入禁止名录； Restriction on cosmetics claims Regulations on Naming Cosmetics Labeling Chinese

herbal medicine, Chinese prescription, traditional Chinese medicine, prescription, medicinal plants are included in the prohibition directory;

对功效说明的限制《化妆品标识管理规定》：理气、行气、益气、活血、祛

风、除湿、润燥等中医术语被列入禁止名录； Restriction on effectiveness description Administrative Provisions on Cosmetics

Labeling: regulating vital energy, activating vital energy, benefiting vital energy, invigorating the circulation of blood, dispelling wind-evil, dehumidifying, moistening and other Chinese medicine terms are included in the prohibition directory;

• 相关法规的影响(Related Regulations)：对植物成分的安全性要求《化妆品中可能存在安全性风险物质的评审原则》：

农药残留污染物、提取加工过程中带入的杂质（残留的有机溶剂以及为保护产品而加入的防腐剂和稳定剂）；

Requirements over the security of herbal ingredients Assessing the Potential Safety Risk Materials of the Cosmetics：residual pesticide contaminants, impurities brought in the extraction and processing (residual organic solvent and preservatives & stabilizers for protecting the products);

对天然植物中的主要有效成分检测和含量标准目前还处于探索阶段，没有明

确规定，这也是造成市场不规范的因素之一。 The detection and content standards on main active ingredients in natural herb

now are still at an exploratory stage, and the clear definition is absent, which is one of the factors resulting in the non-standard market.


• 相关法规的影响(Related Regulations)：已用化妆品原料名称目录（Catalogue of Cosmetic Ingredients Already in

Use ）(8203) 调整化妆品新原料注册管理 (Registration of New Cosmetic Ingredients ) 化妆品卫生监督管理条例 (Managerial Regulation for the Supervision in the

Sanitation of Cosmetics) 植物新原料管理办法 (Administrative Measures for the New Herbal Cosmetic

Ingredients)


植物新原料管理办法

(Administrative Measures for the New Herbal Cosmetic Ingredients)

• 如果未明确部位的，属于全株植物，那么该植物的任何部位的植物原料都不是新原料

• (If the plant parts are undefined, it can be considered as the whole plant is used and the any part of the plant will not be new ingredient);

• 定性定量控制指标 • (The qualitative and quantitative indexes); • 植物原料应用历史 • (The using history of the plant) • 《化妆品新原料试用批件》，批件有效期四年，有效期届满批件自行

废止 • 4 years of period of observation for 《The approval document of new

cosmetic ingredient》

天然本草产物的特性 Special properties of natural herbal products

• 植物成分的优势(The advantages of natural herbal products)：来源绿色、环保、可生物降解； Green, environmentally friendly and biodegradable source; 安全性相对较高； Relatively high security 多种成分能够产生相互协同的功效或者降低毒性的作用； Mutual synergistic effect or toxic effect reduction among a variety of ingredients; 很多植物成分具有长期使用历史和文化沉淀； A long history of use and a culture of precipitation for many botanical ingredients; 新的有效化合物的主要来源。 Main source of new and effective compounds.

天然本草产物的特性 Special properties of natural herbal products

• 主要来源于植物成分；Mainly from plant ingredients; • 容易受环境（地域、气候、水质）、植物品种、种植管理、提取工艺等因素

影响； Vulnerable to the factors of environment (geography, climate, water quality), plant species, plantation management, and extraction process; • 资源限制性，有的属于濒临灭绝种类；Resources are restrictive, some of which

belong to endangered species;

• 稳定性差，天然产物容易受到温度、金属离子、光、氧气等影响发生变化；Poor stability,natural products are susceptible to change due to temperature, metal ions, light, oxygen and others;

• 成分复杂性，含有多种复杂成分，难以提纯；Complex composition, containing a variety of complex components, which are difficult to purify;

• 有效成分多样性，难以确定有效成分标准。Diverse active ingredients, results in that the standard on active ingredients is hard to be determined.

化妆品中应用天然本草产物的影响因素 Restricting factors for natural herbal products in cosmetics

• 技术因素(Technical factors)：天然产物成分的复杂性，很多产品没有标准品，缺乏定量检测方法—指纹图谱；

Complexity of natural ingredients, because there are non standards for many products and the quantitative detection methods – fingerprinting are absent;

提取过程中溶剂的应用及残留量确定； Application of solvents and residue determination in the extraction process; 天然产物产地不同对提取物质量的影响—组织细胞培养、GAP管理； Affects on the quality of the extracts due to the different origins of natural products- tissue cultures, GAP management; 来源缺乏，使得应用成本上升（甘草、冬虫夏草等）----植物细胞组织培养（是否能够完

全替代）；Limited sources, increasing the application costs (licorice, Cordyceps sinensis) ---- plant tissue culture (whether it can be completely replaced);

稳定性差，容易受到多种因素相互干扰，发生变化（空气、基质成分、容器、配方加工工

艺）；Poor stability, vulnerable to be affected and changed(air, matrix components, containers, formula processing technology) by a variety of factors;

产业链，需要专门提供化妆品用途的天然产物。 Industrial chain, the natural products specifically for cosmetics are needed.

• 非技术因素(Non technical factors)：很多天然产物的应用来源于历史沉淀，受到不同程度的地域文化影响，因

此，不同地区、不同文化背景的消费者具有不同的认知度； The application of many natural products is derived from history and affected by

geographical and cultural impact to different extents, therefore, the consumers of different cultural backgrounds and different regions have different degrees of cognitive;

不同国家和地区法规不同，对天然产物的标准和产品功能宣称都有不同的

规定，例如，在中国，对于化妆品中应用中草药规定了：禁用类植物、限用类植物、禁用类植物成分、限用类植物成分、宣称限制、命名规范等；

Different laws of different countries and regions regulate different requirements and features on natural products, for example, in China, the law regulates the forbidden plants, plants of limited use, forbidden plant components, plant components of limited use, claim restrictions, naming conventions and others in application of herbal medicine in the cosmetics;


• 非技术因素(Non technical factors)：消费者群体，年轻人（18-25岁）容易接受国外天然植物成分的概念，

25-35岁对传统中药有好感； Among the consumer groups, the young people at 18-25 year-old is easy to

accept the concept of natural plant ingredients from abroad and the young people at 25-35 year-old has a favorable impression on traditional Chinese medicine;

社会服务机构（检测、标准物提供、功效证明）的完备有利于天然产物

在化妆品中的应用和推广，目前在中国还是以政府部门为主。 Complete social service agencies (detection, standard material provision,

effectiveness proof) are conductive to the application and promotion of natural products in cosmetics, and the government departments are the main social service agencies in China.


发展思路 Train of thought

• 技术解决方案(Technical Solutions)：

• 标准检测试剂的研制(Development of standard detection reagents)；

• 检测方法的验证(Verification of detection method )；

• 有效成分稳定性解决方案(Solutions for the stability of active ingredients )：

1) 有效成分载体的研究(Study on the carriers of active ingredients)；

2) 透皮吸收制剂的研制(Study on the transdermal absorption of active ingredients) ；

3) 活性成分结构改性(Modification of the structures of active ingredients)；

4) 配方适用性研究（通过配方成分改进来达到稳定天然产物活性成分的目的）

(Study on the conformity between the active ingredients and base formula)

发展思路(Train of thought)

企业、行业组织、政府部门的作用

• 企业的作用(Actions of Enterprises) ：

加强技术投入，提高研发能力； Enhancing the technical inputs and improving the R & D capabilities; 完善产业链，专业化生产化妆品天然产物原料； Improving the industrial chain and realizing the specialized production of natural

products’ raw materials for cosmetics; 建立可靠的天然产物原料标准； Establishing a reliable standard of natural products’ raw materials; 熟悉和理解相关法规； Being familiar with and understanding the relevant laws and regulations; 产品开发时需要考虑不同国家、地区的消费者对植物类（中草药、印度草药、

美洲草药）产品的文化认同程度。 Taking account of the cultural identity extent of different consumers of different

countries or regions on the plants (herbal medicine, herbal medicine of India, the Americas herbal medicine) in the product development.

• 行业组织的作用(Actions of Industry organizations) ：组织企业与政府部门之间沟通； Organizing the communication between enterprises and government departments; 引导企业开展具有针对性的研究工作； Guiding enterprises to carry out specific research; 组织企业建立有效的行业标准； Organizing the enterprises to establish an effective industry standard; 协调企业之间交流，促进行业自律，抵制侵害消费者的不良行为； Coordinating the exchanges among enterprises, prompting the self-regulation of

the indu7stry and resisting against the bad behavior of consumers; 开展专业性宣教活动，提高消费者对产品的知识。 Carrying out a professional promotion and education activities and enhancing the

awareness of customers on products;



• 政府部门的作用(Actions of government departments) ：充分理解天然植物类产品的应用对于化妆品行业发展的意义； Fully understanding the significance of the application of natural plant products on

the development of the cosmetics industry; 主动与行业协会和相关企业沟通，了解行业技术进展（比较容易与科研单位沟

通）； Taking the initiative to communicate with industry associations and related businesses,

and understanding the technological advances of the industry (easier to communicate with the research units);

制定和发布符合实际情况、相对有效的法规，规范市场（超前或落后）；

Developing and publishing the relatively effective regulations in line with the facts and regulating the market (ahead or behind);



• 政府部门的作用(Actions of government departments) ：及时修订相关标准，使其符合产业发展的进程； Revising the relevant standards in time to ensure it conforms with the

process of industrial development; 增加社会性检验机构，建立有效的认证程序，公开检验机构资质情况和

监管、投诉部门----规范市场的必要条件。 Adding the social inspection agency, establishing the effective certification

program, publishing the qualifications of the inspection agency, and the necessary conditions for regulating the market of the complaint handling departments and the supervision department.



前景和展望 Foreground and Prospect

• 天然植物加工生产技术的完善和产业链的形成：技术的进步和市场的发展形成

相互促进的关系；

Improvement of natural plant processing and production technology, formation of

the industrial chain; realizing the mutually reinforcing relationship between the

technological progress and the market development;

• 市场的成熟和法规的健全：国际化大公司的加入对消费者及市场规则的影响，

植物类化妆品标准化技术的成熟；

Market’s maturation and improvement of regulations; impact of the accession of

international companies on consumers and market rules; and the maturation of the

standardized technology of plant-based cosmetics;

前景和展望 Foreground and Prospect

• 国际经贸的发展：不同国家之间技术交流以及国际标准法规对国内生产企业的推动作用； Development of international trade and economy: technical exchanges of different countries; the promotion of international standards and regulations on domestic producers;

• 国民经济的发展：更多的消费者，更高的质量要求； Development of national economy: more consumers, higher quality requirements; • 政府部门和行业组织对市场规范作用； Regulation of government departments and industry organizations on the market; • 相关知识的普及和消费者的成熟； Popularity of relevant knowledge and the maturation of consumers

• 新技术，新产品推动产业规模增长，带动相关产业的发展的技术进步。

New technologies and new products promotes the growth of industrial scale and drives the development and technological progress of relevant industries.

Thank You

Innovations and Trends of the Chinese Local Brand Cosmetics with Natural...

Marketing

Transcript of Innovations and Trends of the Chinese Local Brand Cosmetics with Natural...