Digital Technologies for the Apparel Decorator

Global Print Drivers• Decline in run length• Shorter lead times• Full color• Variable data

• Personalization/Customization• Web-to-Print

• All Print is Converging…Digital, Digital, Digital, Digital

Apparel Market• $1 Trillion industry• Buyer-driven commodity chain• Employs tens of millions• Low-income countries account for 75% of world clothing

exports• This is beginning to change as new technology is enabling brands to

“re-shore” mfg

0%5%

10%15%20%25%30%35% 31%

22%

13% 12%9%

Multi-technology; no single processdominatingMulti-technology; Mostly Analog

Multi-technology, but mostly Digital

Entirely Analog

Entirely Digital0%5%

10%15%20%25%30%35% 31%

22%

13% 12%9%

Technology Mix - Apparel

Technology Trends

0 10 20 30 40 50 60

Multi-technology, Mostly Analog

Multi-technology, No single processdominating

Entirely Analog

Multi-technology, Mostly Digital

Entirely Digital

20182017201620152014201320122011

Screen Printing Drawbacks• Volumes required for production• Make-ready• Adverse to customization

Digital Apparel

Digital Technology Facts• The Digital World Never Stands Still• Platforms Change Rapidly

• An 18 month life span is normal for “state of the art”• Pick a Reliable System• Try to Create Multiple Lives for the Chosen Technology

• Fashion Trends Change Rapidly• Trends and Margin Opportunities Must Mix• Consumer Tastes Change on the Fly

Digital Technology Platforms• Inkjet Transfer• Laser Transfer• Dye Sublimation Transfer• Heat Applied• Print-and-Cut• Direct to Garment Inkjet• Heatset Rhinestone/Nailhead• Laser Etching

Inkjet Heat Transfers• What is it?

• Transfers printed with an inkjet printer & heat applied to your garment.• Durability – Average to Below Average. With many papers the image

will begin to deteriorate after a few laundry cycles. • Hand - Varies with brand of paper. Some produce a plastic feel. The

“box effect” surrounds your design unless you trim around your design with scissors or a vinyl cutter. Light color paper is traditionally a softer feel than opaque or dark color paper.

Inkjet Heat Transfers• How does it work for Light Garments?

• Create design & print in “Mirror Image” format.• Trim around image.• Position onto garment, print side down.• Heat press at recommended time & temperature.

• How does it work for Dark Garments?• Covered in Print/Cut Media Section

Inkjet Heat Transfers• What equipment do I need?

• Inkjet printer – Epson or HP• Heat press• Paper

• What types of fabric?• Cotton• Cotton/Poly blends• Polyester

Inkjet Heat Transfers• What are the costs?

• Printer - $49-$2,000• Heat Press - $500-$3,000• Consumables

• Paper $0.40- $0.70 • Ink $0.05- $0.75

• OEM Ink Costs: $12/11-13mL• Inkjet Transfer Ink: $40/110mL

• One mL of ink covers approximately 1 sq. ft.

Inkjet Heat Transfers• Target Markets

• Lower quantities and personalization• Photo realistic prints where durability is not priority

• (ie. tourist destinations, mall kiosks, fairs, flea markets, family reunions, 1 time wear – promotional)

Inkjet Heat Transfers• Pros

• Reduce inventories• Cost• Short lead-time

• Cons• Trimming• “Hand”• Polymer “Window”• Durability

Laser Transfers• What is it?

• Transfers that can be printed through a desktop laser printer or copier & heat applied to your garment.

• Laser uses dry toner cartridges – one per color.• Durability – Average to Below Average. With poor quality papers, the

image will begin to deteriorate after a few laundry cycles. • Hand - Varies with brand of paper but image has a plastic feel. The

“box effect” surrounds your design unless you trim around your design with scissors or a vinyl cutter. Light color paper is traditionally a softer feel than opaque or dark color paper.

Laser Transfers• How does it work for Light Garments?

• Create design & print in “Mirror Image” format.• Trim around image. • Newer produts (e.g. ImageClip™ Heat Transfer Paper) Offers “No

trimming or weeding” • Position onto garment, print side down.• Heat press at recommended time & temperature.

Laser Transfers• How does it work for Dark Garments?

• Create design & print in “Right Reading” format.• Trim around image.• Position onto garment, print side up.• Heat press at recommended time & temperature.• Newer technologies (e.g. ImageClip, TheMagicTouch)

Laser Transfers• What equipment do I need?

• Laser copier or printer• Heat press• Paper• Cutter (optional)

• What types of fabric?• Cotton• Cotton/Poly blends• Polyester

Laser Transfers• What is the cost?

• Desktop Laser printer - $500 - $10,000• High-speed Laser Copier - $1,500 - $150,000• Heat Press - $500-$3,000• Light Garments

• Paper $0.30-$1.00 (8 ½“ x 11”)• Toner $0.02-$0.25

• Dark Garments• Paper $0.60-$1.50 (8 ½“ x 11”)• Toner $0.02-$0.25

Laser Transfers• Target Markets

• Lower quantities and personalization• Sponsor logos or Add-on graphics• Photo realistic prints where durability is not priority

• (i.e. tourist destinations, mall kiosks, fairs, flea markets, family reunions, 1 time wear – promotional)

Laser Transfers• Pros

• Reduce inventories• Lower Overall Cost• Very fast (up to 60+ ppm)

• Cons• “Hand”• Polymer “Window”• Durability• Initial Investment Costs

Inkjet vs. Laser

Inkjet• Minimal Initial Investment• Vibrant Color• Slower than Laser• Slightly Higher Overall Cost

Laser• Higher Initial Investment• Same Vibrant Color• Very Fast (Up to 60+ ppm)• Lower Overall Cost

Dye-Sublimation• What is it?

• Transfers that can be printed through a desktop or wide-format inkjet printer using dye-sublimation inks & heat applied to your polyester garment.

• Durability – Excellent. Literally dyes the fabric.• Hand – Excellent.

Dye-Sublimation• How does it work for Light Garments?

• High temperature causes dye to change from a solid to a gas, without passing through a liquid state.

• High temperature simultaneously causes molecules of polyester to “open” and receive the gaseous dye.

Dye-Sublimation• How does it work for Dark Garments?

• Dye-sublimation is limited :• If color is critical, apply to white/light garments only.• If merely embellishing, dye-sublimation will work on dark garments.

Dye-Sublimation• What equipment do I need?

• Desktop or wide-format inkjet printer primed with dye-sublimation ink

• Heat press able to reach 400°F• Dye-sublimation transfer paper

• What types of fabric?• Cotton/Poly blends comprised of at least 65% polyester • 100% Polyester• Coasters, mousepads, plaques, metal, etc., etc.

Dye-Sublimation• What is the cost?

• Desktop inkjet printer - $49-$4,000• Wide-format inkjet printer- $2,500-$65,000• Heat Press - $500-$125,000• Paper $0.30-$1.00 (8 ½“ x 11”)• Ink $0.25-$1.00 or more per transfer

Dye-Sublimation• Target Markets

• High-margin customization• Bundled products• Performance apparel• Photo realistic prints where durability is TOP priority

• (i.e. tourist destinations, mall kiosks, fairs, flea markets, family reunions, 1 time wear – promotional)

Dye-Sublimation• Pros

• Excellent durability, image detail, & color• No “Hand” (feel is second to none)• Performance/wicking, Urban fashion• Product Diversity – mouse pads, mugs, ceramic tile, awards, many

others…almost limited!• Cons

• Cost of inks• Apparel choices limited & more expensive• Color accuracy & correction

Heat Applied Films• What is it?

• Vinyl material that is cut on a vinyl cutter and applied to a garment.• Durability – Excellent! Will outlast the garment if properly applied.• Hand – Based on the material used. Varieties include very soft, matte

or glossy finish, flock, glitter/metallic.

Heat Applied Films• How does it work?

• Create design & print in “Mirror Image” format. • Weed away excess material.• Position onto garment, print side down.• Heat press at recommended time & temperature.

Heat Applied Films• What equipment do I need?

• Vinyl cutter• Vinyl material• Heat press

Heat Applied Films• What is the cost?

• Cutter/Plotter - $500 - $10,000• Vinyl - $0.01-$0.04 per sq. in.• Heat Press - $500-$3,000

Heat Applied Films• Target Markets

• Lower quantities and personalization – Names, numbers, team uniforms.

• Material can be applied to virtually any type of garment provided the application temperature is within tolerance of the fabric.

• Material is available in a variety of colors.

Heat Applied Films• Pros

• Ideal for names/numbers on sports uniforms• Ease of use• Excellent durability & works on most everything

• Cons• Photo quality, gradients, continuous tone is not possible.• More than 3 colors, or intricate detail, becomes labor intensive• Weeding

Print-and-Cut Media• What is it?

• Process uses media that can be printed and cut out on an inkjet printer/cutter, and then weeded and heat applied to garment.

• Durability – Very good. When applied properly, some medias will outlast the garment.

• Hand - Based on the material used. Varieties include matte & glossy finish, glitters, etc.

Print-and-Cut Media• How does it work?

• Print & Cut in “Right Reading” format. • Weed away excess material.• Position on garment, print side up.• Heat press at recommended time & temperature.

Print-and-Cut Media• What equipment do I need?

• Solvent inkjet printer with onboard vinyl cutter OR separate cutter• Print/Cut media• Heat press

Print-and-Cut Media• What is the cost?

• Printer/Cutter - >$15,000• Cutter only - ~$2,000 for 24 in. cutter

• Heat Press - $500-$3,000• Consumables

• 18in. x 50 ft.=$50• Ink $0.25-$1.00

Print-and-Cut Media• Target Markets

• Lower quantities and personalization• Material can be applied to virtually any type of garment provided the

application temperature is within tolerance of the fabric.

Print-and-Cut Media• Pros

• Excellent durability & works on most everything• Ease of use• Combines the durability of heat transfer vinyl with full color capability

of printer.• Good solution for dark garments

• Cons• Cost of equipment• Learning curve associated with more advanced technology

Direct to Garment Inkjet• What is it?

• Inkjet printer designed to print directly to garments.

• Hand is very good. Less than screen printing.

• Works best on 100% cotton.

Direct to Garment Inkjet• How does it work for Light Garments?

• Using graphic software, your image is sent to printer much like a document.

• Once printed, ink is cured using a heat press or conveyor dryer.• How does it work for Dark Garments?

• Printer is equipped with white ink.• White ink pass is applied first, followed by color ink pass.• Garment must be pre-treated.

Direct to Garment Inkjet• What equipment do I need?

• Computer• Direct to Garment inkjet printer• Heat press or conveyor dryer

Direct to Garment Inkjet• What is the cost?

• Inkjet printer - $10,000 - $200,000• Many are below $25,000

• Curing unit• Heat Press - $500-$3,000• Conveyor dryer - $1,500-$5,000

• Cost per print• White/light garments - $0.10 - $1.00/shirt• Dark garments - $0.50 - $3.00/shirt

Direct to Garment Inkjet• Target Markets

• Customized, short-run apparel• Mixed Media / Non-Traditional• Schools, churches, local companies/small business organizations

Direct to Garment Inkjet• Pros

• Photo quality prints• No mess • High profit margins• No long setup or prep times

• Cons• Higher ink costs• Somewhat slow (depends on desired capacity)• Dark shirt printing is slow and more expensive• Not good for athletic, special FX, spot color

Heatset Rhinestone/Nailhead• What is it?

• Real or simulated gemstones with heat activated adhesive.• Stones are arranged into a design and applied to garment.• Durability – Depends on quality of adhesive. Using quality stones,

durability is excellent. Poor quality stones will not last.

Heatset Rhinestone/Nailhead• How does it work?

• Design is digitally engraved into plastic.• Stones are arranged in pattern, adhesive side down.• Using transfer tape, stones are picked up from template and heat

pressed to garment

Heatset Rhinestone/Nailhead• What equipment do I need?

• Engraver• Rhinestones• Heat press

Heatset Rhinestone/Nailhead• What is the cost?

• Engraver - $5,500• Stones - $3 - $10 per gross (144 pieces)• Heat Press - $500-$3,000

Heatset Rhinestone/Nailhead• Target Markets

• Very popular among females - young or old.• Lower quantities and personalization.• Material can be applied to virtually any type of

garment provided the application temperature is within tolerance of the fabric.

Heatset Rhinestone/Nailhead• Pros

• Unique, non-traditional decorating method• Low investment

• Cons• Labor intensive• Slow production

Laser Etching• What is it?

• An abrasion-free, contact-free process that etches a design or pattern into garment fibers.

Laser Etching• How does it work?

• Design is digitally engraved into garment fibers using a laser.

Laser Etching• What equipment do I need?

• Laser Etching Machine

Laser Etching• What is the cost?

• Laser Etching Machine - $20K-$100K

Laser Etching• Target Markets

• Tourist Destinations• Corporate

Laser Etching• Pros

• Unique, non-traditional decorating method• Very fast

• Cons• Very specialized, niche application• Design limitations; primarily color• Capital Investment

A Perfect Storm• Retail Market

• Flooded by hundreds of non-traditional online sites

• Destabilized traditional Retailers and Brands

• Uncertain marketing plans

A Perfect Storm• Shortage of undeveloped countries with:

• Sufficient water • Affordable labor

• Becoming more difficult to support the traditional offshore mass-production model

Fashion Apparel• Volume-based Manufacturing Model

• Design/Prototype approval – 3 months• Forecast Quantities – 2-3 months• Volume Manufacturing – >6 months

• Fashion works 18 months ahead• Currently working on Spring 2021

Volume-based Manufacturing Model

ApparelProduction

ConsumerSalesForecast Gap

18 Months

Volume-based Manufacturing Results• 4 out of 5 blouses produced are not sold at retail price (80%)

• 375-575 liters of water per blouse• Inventory costs• Markdowns• Lost profits

Volume-based Manufacturing• Over Forecasting• Long lead times• Reduced Profits

Not a sustainable model

Value-based Manufacturing• Garment is not printed/manufactured until it is purchased

• Pioneering approach to apparel production economics• On demand, personalized apparel• Removes profit loss caused by unsold inventory

Value-based Manufacturing Model

ApparelProduction

VirtualInventory

DesignSoftware

ConsumerSales

Micro-Merchandising

<8 Hours

MicroFactoryDigital

Coloration

Value-based Manufacturing• Reduced inventory costs, carrying charges, tariffs,

transportation charges, markdowns• Retained profit easily offsets increased production costs in a

domestic factory

Market Analysis• Digital decoration experiencing accelerated growth

• Fueled by online sales• Operates without minimums• Mass-Customization

The Future of Fashion Mfg.• Accurate body scanning

The Future of Fashion Mfg.• Custom apparel

The Future of Fashion Mfg.

Single-Pass Inkjet

Digital Inks for Textiles• Acid – Protein Fibers: Silk, Wool• Reactive – Cellulose Fibers: Cotton• Dispersed: Polyester, Nylon• Pigment: Almost anything!

The Future of Fashion Mfg.• Scan-to-cut systems can scan custom printed textiles,

automatically generate cut files, and cut directly from textile rolls

Digital Advantages• No Minimums

• Economic Run Length (ERL)• Full Color• Customization/Variable Data• Short turnaround

Digital Disadvantages• Cost• Speed of inkjet to produce high volumes• No volume discounts• Spot color• Speed• SFX

Questions