DESTINATION - A2A Safaris · seaside retreat during the presidency of Augusto Leguia, when Peru was...

104\Metro Society June 2017

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text and photographs by TRACIE ANGLO-DIZON

Land of PlentyPeru is many things to many people, and for good

reason—it has mountains, beaches, culture, gastronomy, adventure, wildlife, and of course, Machu Pichu and the Amazon. In fact, we are hard-pressed to think of the one

thing Peru doesn’t have. Maybe skyscrapers?

From Andes to Amazon, an epic

journey through Peru’s varied landscapes and

mysterious waters in unrivaled comfort.


We started our journey in the capital, Lima. Many city dwellers choose to bypass the capital Lima, but for anyone with even a passing interest in gastronomy, this oceanside city is home to some of the continent’s—and in fact world’s—best restaurants, which are well worth visiting if you can spare a night.

There are also some excellent museums and galleries, including Mario Testino’s Mate and the colonial center of the city, home to a stunning cathedral and convent. A2A Journeys also arranges private cooking classes with renowned chefs, and a private visit to South America’s oldest continuously inhabited colonial house, Casa Aliaga.

What made our stay in Lima even more special was where we stayed, Hotel B. Hotel B is a very chic, newly renovated belle époque house with the most amazing art collection and is linked directly to the Lucia de la Puente Gallery, where guests can enjoy private viewings and a vital connection to Lima’s emerging art scene.

Machu Picchu, Cusco, and the Sacred ValleyThis stunning region is home to colorful markets and Incan ruins, and

for those searching for more of an adrenaline rush, it is also the best place in the country for adventure sports such as rafting, kayaking, mountain biking, and quad biking. In Cusco, the region’s beautiful colonial capital, the narrow cobbled streets are home to stylish boutiques and gourmet restaurants.

We stayed at a beautiful Relais & Chateaux lodge called Sol y Luna, which is set in the heart of the Sacred Valley and surrounded by beautiful Andean scenery. In keeping with the traditional style of the hotel, the casitas have been constructed with adobe, wood, and stone and all have been decorated with local Peruvian artwork and furniture to give it an authentic Andean feeling. The hotel’s excellent restaurant features a creative menu of light traditional and international dishes to suit the high altitude location.

After spending a few nights at Sacred Valley, where we were able to acclimatize to the high altitude, we set off for Machu Picchu aboard the

luxurious Hiram Bingham train. Machu Picchu was never discovered by the Spaniards. For centuries, it

was buried in the jungle until Hiram Bingham found it in 1911. The Holy City of Machu Picchu was built in stone among the flanks of two hills belonging to the eastern mountain range of the Andes, descending into the Amazonian upper sylvan. There is no doubt that Machu Picchu represents an extraordinary example of architecture and engineering.

After our Machu Picchu adventure, we set off for Cusco, the capital of the Incan empire and now a major city in the Andes. Their cathedral is considered the best repository of colonial art from the Cusco school. Just outside the city is Sacsayhuaman, the fortress above Cusco whose precise zigzags of massive stone remain unmoved by the centuries. Of course, in between all the cultural expeditions were some of the best shopping expeditions in Peru (certainly very exciting for me), such as the Chincero Sunday market which sells the most amazing textiles, and San Pedro Market, one of the most vibrant markets in Peru, selling bread, alpaca sweaters, colorful blankets, and chocolate.

One of the newer hotels to join Cusco’s luxury hotel scene, Palacio Nazarenas is housed in a former palace and convent which still maintains many of its original features such as Incan stone walls and colonial frescoes. For those who are suffering from the high altitude, the rooms are also oxygenated. We say it’s one of the best places we’ve stayed, not just in Peru or Latin America, but in the world.

Puno and Lake TiticacaLocated on the Altiplano, in the Andes of Southern Peru, Puno is home

to the highest lake in the world, Lake Titicaca (4,000 meters above sea level), and to endless archaeological testimonies and ancient cultures which have remained alive despite the passage of time and the encroachment of modernity.

Titilaka, a lodge on Lake Titicaca, is the most luxurious option for those wishing to experience the mystical Lake Titicaca. There are just 18 well-appointed lake view rooms and amenities, including heated floors, iPod docks, fully stocked mini bars, and large bathrooms with a separate tub. Traditional textiles bring a splash of color to the décor, and the bath products are made

The custom-built Aria Amazon riverboat, the most luxurious base for exploring Latin America’s most famous rainforest

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Clockwise from above: The upper deck lounger bar

offers floor-to- ceiling panoramic

windows;guests delve

deep into the enigmatic black waters and lush jungle canopies

of Amazonia; the vessel boasts generous indoor

and outdoor lounging spaces;

including the observation deck’s

outdoor Jacuzzi.


The sumptuous Hotel B, set in a beautiful Belle Époque mansion. Clockwise from top, left:

Surrounded by galleries and artists’ studios, it houses a unique art collection of its own;17

stunning, luxurious suites; a signature restaurant by Oscar Velarde; the lounge is a meeting spot at

the heart of the house; ample living space with the charm of Lima´s traditional hospitality.

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Clockwise from above: Relais & Chateaux property Sol y Luna provides the perfect spot to enjoy the Sacred Valley; luscious green scenery like fields of quinoa in the agricultural heartland of Peru; small Andean villages and colorful local markets dot this valley; the colonial gem that is Cusco; the ancient Citadel of Machu Picchu.

locally using Andean mint. The dining room has expansive views over the lake, and guests can enjoy contemporary Peruvian cuisine paired with some excellent South American wines, and each evening there is a cocktail hour before dinner.

AmazonSince setting sail in 2011, the Aria has positioned herself as one

of the most luxurious boats on the Peruvian Amazon.From the moment we stepped on board, we knew we were going

to enjoy the Aria Amazon’s atmosphere of low-key luxury. As we settled into our handsomely appointed, over-sized suite, we felt the vessel begin to move—the beginning of one of the great adventures of our lives.

Over the next three days, we sailed along the largest tributaries of the Amazon, as well as the mighty Amazon itself, a place visited by only a few of even the most experienced world travelers.

Peru indeed has everything. We can’t wait to go back for more.

For bespoke trips to Peru, visit www.a2ajourneys.com or email [email protected]. All properties in the article are represented by A2A Journeys.


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Set in a tranquil plaza behind Cusco’s main square, Belmond Palacio Nazarenas set in a restored 17th-century palace and convent is now one of the city’s most exclusive hotels. Clockwise from left: Home to Cusco’s first outdoor heated swimming pool; an irresistible mix of ancient and modern; the signature suites offer beautiful private terraces; the cloistered courtyard retains the original design features.

Opposite page: Guests can enjoy breakfast with impressive views out across the city.


Places to Stay:Aria Amazon, Amazon River, Peru Recently refurbished to re-affirm the brand’s position as best in class, the 147-foot, 16-cabin ‘Aria Amazon’ was custom built to explore the mighty Peruvian Amazon River in uncompromising comfort. The vessel boasts generous indoor and outdoor lounging spaces, an elegant dining room and an upper-deck bar. Spacious private living quarters feature newly upgraded interiors and floor-to-ceiling, river-facing windows. Guests enjoy delectable dishes from Executive Chef Pedro Miguel Schiaffino, globally renowned for his Amazon influenced cuisine. Experienced naturalist guides lead excursion groups of eight guests deep into the enigmatic black waters and lush jungle canopies of Amazonia. Guests may cycle, kayak, swim and fish en route to further engage with the wonders of Amazonia. A full-time paramedic is on board to ensure guest safety on every adventure.

Belmond Palacio Nazarenas, Cusco, PeruSet in a tranquil plaza behind Cusco’s main square, this restored 17th-century palace and convent is now one of the city’s most exclusive hotels. This all-suite hotel sits in a superb location on its namesake cobbled square, Plazoleta Nazarenas.The Plazoleta is just two blocks away from Cusco’s cen-tral Plaza de Armas. An irresistible mix of ancient and modern, Palacio Nazarenas built on Inca walls, a cloistered courtyard and ancient fountain with a fabulous spa, the city’s first outdoor pool and a cutting-edge restaurant.

Hotel B, Lima, PeruThe first Relais & Châteaux hotel in Lima is conceived as a hub for travelers promoting deeper exploration of the historic city; 17 suites, a signature restaurant with the spirit of a turn of the Century Explorers Club, a guest house with the charm of Lima´s traditional hospitality, a meeting center with artistic sensibility to connect

travelers. The house is a pristine example of a Belle Époque mansion, originally built as a summer seaside retreat during the presidency of Augusto Leguia, when Peru was celebrating 100 years of independence and Lima had been transformed for the occasion. Thus it captures the celebratory spirit of the 1920s.

Titilaka Lodge, Lake Titicaca, PeruTitilaka, a modern all-inclusive experience lodge on a remote peninsula on the Peruvian shores of Lake Titicaca, offers a luxurious refuge from which to explore the treasured natural, cultural, and histori-cal resources of this mystical region. Surrounded by stunning scenery and pristine geography, Titilaka’s contemporary design and comfort integrate with the natural environment. The architectural concept of Titilaka is closely linked to a special place posi-tioned starkly between water, mountains, and sky. Lake Titicaca is the world’s highest navigable lake at 12,500 feet (3,810m) above sea level and covers some 3,200 square miles (8,300 square km) has a depth of 107 meters and is 50 miles (80 km) wide.

Sol y Luna, Sacred Valley, PeruThe Hotel Sol y Luna is located just outside Urubamba on the road to Ollantaytambo. French couple Petit and Franz set up the Sol y Luna Lodge in 2000 as a means to generate income to fund their work with local underprivileged children. Unusual for a business, 100 percent of the profits from Sol y Luna go back into the Sol y Luna non-profit association. The Hotel Sol y Luna is a Relais & Chateaux property and has 43 private ‘casitas’ or bungalows. Other notable features are horseback riding on Peruvian Paso horses, perennial lush gardens with plenty of bird life, gastronomic experiences, tradi-tional textile demonstrations, pottery workshop, along with an exceptional spa and sophisticated cuisine in two restaurants on the premises.

Travel tips/essentials:1. Take advantage of visa-free travel; Peru is one of the most welcoming countries in South America, granting Philippine passport holders up to 183 days of visa-free travel.2. Get your jabs before you fly, in areas of high altitude there is no risk of yellow fever, but if you plan to visit the Amazon then vaccination is a must. For entry back into the Philippines you may be asked to produce a certificate, regardless of the areas you visited.3. The best time to travel is April-October, whilst techni-cally winter, this is the dry season and far more pleasant.4. Take your time in Peru, allow enough days to acclimatize to the high altitude and enjoy the natural beauty of the country.5. Book restaurants in advance, particularly in Lima where the gastronomy scene is taking the world by storm, top restaurants such as Central and Maido fill up months in advance so book early to avoid disappointment.6. Immerse yourself further in culinary scene of Peru, try a local cooking class or market tour. The dish to try is guinea pig, or cuy, a local delicacy, served spatchcock style; it is not for the faint-hearted!7. There is no such thing as a bad room at Palacio Nazare-nas, but the rooms on the top floor offer spectacular views of the city.8. Drinking coca tea, which you will find readily available throughout the country, really helps with altitude sickness, known as soroche in Peru.9. Show respect when taking photos, people from traditional Andean communities may also take offense at unsolicited photography, be sure to ask.10. Leave space for extra luggage on the way home, Peru ranks among the top countries in the world for artesanal goods.11. Take good walking shoes with a proper ankle support, even if you do not plan on proper hikes, much of the ter-rain is uneven and Inca steps can be steep and narrow!12. Hike Huayna Picchu or Machu Picchu Mountain (separate permits needed) on your day at Machu Picchu for phenomenal views of the site.

“Peru indeed has everything. We can’t wait to go back for more”

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Luxury boutique experience Lodge Titilaka. Clockwise from above: Set on a remote private peninsula

on the Peruvian shores of Lake Titicaca, the lodge has a sophisticated modern style featuring craftwork of local artisans; floor-to-window ceilings allow guests to enjoy

the other worldly beauty of Lake Titicaca; the architectural concept is closely linked to its special position between

water, mountains, and sky (opposite page).

DESTINATION - A2A Safaris · seaside retreat during the presidency of Augusto Leguia, when Peru was...

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