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The closest you can get to nature and be embraced by it is through an awesome safari experience deep

in the heart of Africa, writes Anton San Diego

savage beauty

Photography MaX SeiGal

ear, there and everywhere This elephant tried to intimidate us by flapping its ears and by roaring loudly

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The first thing that hits you is the silence. Like a magnet, it draws you in, and if you just surrender to it, the silence will touch your heart and envelop your soul in an almost spiritual level that’s close to indescribable.

I had always wanted to go on a safari. My friends would often tell me how life-altering one such trip could be; when it finally happened, all those years of watching TV shows on NatGeo, and Discovery Channel paled in comparison. I felt time float by from our Land Rover,

(land travel was not an option) so I really bit the bullet on this one.

Our group’s first camp was DumaTau, set on a lagoon by the Linyanti River. Right after lunch, we were taken on a ride out to the desert where we first encountered an angry elephant that was clearly bothered by the intrusion on his territory. We tried to capture the moment with our iPhones and cameras. Suddenly, the elephant let out a loud cry and poised itself to attack our vehicle. I thought to myself, “Welcome to Africa!” Thankfully, it relented and did not pursue its attack. Despite our Disney image of elephants, they are actually dangerous, especially in the wild.

Our guide then took us to see a group of lions feasting on a zebra. This is a picture that always comes to my mind whenever the subject of safari comes up, introduced and reinforced by countless scenes on television and films. My heart was pumping as I watched the predators devour their prey. Nothing

can prepare you for a moment such as this. I was so enraptured by the scene that I did not notice a lioness approach until it brushed the side of our vehicle. Open on all sides, our vehicle left us totally exposed! Our guide warned us not to make any sudden moves or loud noises. I could already see the headline: “Editors Eaten by Lion.” Probably full from the zebra feast, it proceeded on. I took a deep breath and sighed heavily.

We took the vehicle for a spin over hills, water, and different vegetation, and saw hippos, giraffes, zebras, and a variety of birds. At about four in the afternoon, our guides found a place where we could stretch our legs and have tea, their version of après-ski.

I retired early after dinner because of jetlag. But about three in the morning, I woke up to strange sounds outside my tent. “Who’s there?” I yelled out. The sound stopped for a moment, but continued on. Curious, I set out to find the source of all the noise. I reached for the

soaking in nature’s grandeur and majesty, feeling tiny, almost insignificant.

So for five days, I visited this unforgettable continent and was able to take in all it had to offer. Our first stop was Zambia, then we moved on to Botswana, where my encounter with the “real Africa” began.

Day 1I arrived after a short trip from Zambia on a 12-seater plane—a nerve-racking flight. My eleven travelling companions were equally scared, but there’s only one way to get there

ravelling has become an obsession of mine. The tragic helicopter crash almost a year ago that I was in made me want to explore this beautiful and enormous world we live in. As one of my Instagram posts says, “Travel is the only thing that makes you richer”—and might I add, is something that makes us more appreciative of the world we live in.

ray of hope African sunset; (opposite from top) Giraffe at the plains, Okavango at 10,000 ft; (inset) The elusive wild dog

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ready for adventure Robert and Millet Mananquil, Keren Pascual, Max Seigal, JJ San Juan, Ben Chan, Miguel Pastor, Anton San Diego, Virgilio Lim, and Thelma San Juan; (opposite) A lioness quenches her thirst after a kill

flashlight and walked out to the terrace of my tent. To my delight, I discovered what was making all that noise: hippos frolicking in the water.

Day 2 At 5:30 in the morning, our guide woke me up for breakfast and to prepare for another game drive. They scheduled a total of two drives per day and lots of eating in between. On the drive, our guide regularly checked the road for animal footprints, like an American Indian tracker.

It was cold, June being the start of Africa’s winter; it was a challenge to get out of bed and take a morning shower. The camp provided us with rubber bottles to warm our hands as well as blankets to warm our bodies.

We spotted a herd of zebras and giraffes. From a distance, some birds caught my attention. A call came through on the radio that a group of lions was stalking a herd of wildebeest.

Botswana is blessed with two features that make it one of the most ideal safari destinations in Africa: the Kalahari Desert and the Okavango Delta. These are Africa’s iconic landscapes that bring together a Noah’s Ark of animals—from lions, leopards, zebras, and wild dogs on end to hippos, crocodiles, and eagles in the delta.

As we were heading to see the lions, we saw a small band of red lechwe (African antelopes), called

Our guide then took us to see a group of lions feasting on a zebra. This is a picture that always comes to my mind whenever the subject of safari comes up, introduced and reinforced by countless scenes on television and films

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In the afternoon, we took a boat ride along the Linyanti River to watch the crossing of the elephants. These gentle giants were a sight to behold; for all their weight, they were good swimmers

the McDonalds of the wild because of the shape of their rump, which looks like the letter M. Then we caught a pack of lions gamboling in the grass. The guide related that male lions are never usually with the pack, and that it’s up to the female to hunt and care for the young. Maybe they were hungry or curious about all the commotion, but it was great to see the king of the jungle.

As our Land Rover stopped, we noticed that the buffalos were taking some shelter from the lions—numbering about 25 to 30—that were just watching from a distance. There’s a safari rule that only four cars can be in one place at a time, so we were asked to transfer to another vehicle. I suddenly realised I lost my hat and made some unnecessary noise. Our guide immediately instructed me to quiet down. I did, and just then I saw, a few feet away, a lion looking at me with intensity.

It was fascinating to watch this waiting game between the buffalos that must weigh about one or two tons on one side and the lions, on another. We waited for about 45 minutes. Then we heard loud stomping and the buffalos were off, leaving a cloud of smoke. The lions were left, probably ruing their lost meal.

When not admiring the wildlife, you get to appreciate the sweeping and dramatic views of the

landscape from the river. In the afternoon, we took a boat ride along the Linyanti River to watch the crossing of the elephants. These gentle giants were a sight to behold; for all their weight, they were good swimmers.

Day 3On our last day at DumaTau Camp, we wanted to sneak one more drive before heading out to our next camp. At breakfast, we heard loud lion calls and the thought of them being inside our camp made me nervous. Our guide, however, followed the sound and discovered a group of lions caught in the fence of the camp’s garbage system. He radioed for some of the staff to fix the situation but in a few minutes, the lions managed to get out.

elephant crossing (From top) A herd of pachyderms swimming from one island to the next; Zebra in the bush; (opposite) Gazelles on the run

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Driving around, we spotted some wild dogs, a rare sight in these parks. They are usually driven away by lions as they are a threat to their territory and food source. We followed a group of four wild dogs that were clearly nervous and a bit excited; our guide said they probably smelled the markings of the lions.

As the rest of the group went ahead to Cape Town where we would meet up in two days, Max and I proceeded to our next camp, Jao, located along the Okavango Delta. It spans about 60,000 hectares filled with lush vegetation, floodplains, and woodlands.

The six-seater plane taking us was noticeably smaller, even if there were only the two of us as passengers. I really wasn’t prepared for such a small plane which, to make matters worse, was inscribed with the letters ANT, emphasising its smallness even though it was an acronym for the name of the plane. The only thought that seemed to mitigate my fear was the presence of a female pilot. Surely, I thought, if she can fly, I can fly too. As we were about to take off, I saw her instructing the other pilot what to do. Then it dawned on me that she was the coach and that our pilot was just the student! For 30 long minutes I must have prayed the hardest in all my life. By the way, have I mentioned that I also have a fear of heights?

At Jao Camp, we set off for the game drive. It was great to see the safari from two vantage points, dry and wet lands. Our vehicles were literally like boats on the flood plains. We saw giraffes, red lechwes, and impalas. Max wanted to photograph the impalas and literally ran after them, capturing them through his lenses.

Day 4Back at the camp, some Swiss tourists approached me to say that a very rare owl was in the trees. We set out to investigate and found two Pel’s fishing

african tale King of the Jungle; (opposite) A skull of an impala at the Okavango Delta

Need to KNow

WheN to GoThe peak season is between May and November, when temperatures are cooler. It could, however, get hot during midday

WheRe to StaYDuma Tau Camp (wilderness-safaris.com/camps/dumatau-camp) and Jao Camp (wilderness-safaris.com/camps/jao-camp)

aiRliNeSSouth African Airways: Flight from Hong Kong to Johannesburg; then to Maun; then a short flight to the camp

hoW to BooK A2A Safaris, creating bespoke tours for discerning travellers

What to BRiNGAn open mind, curiosity, and lots of space on your mobile or cameras

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Personal thanks to Binky and Trace Dizon of A2A Safaris for organising this amazing trip. A2A Safaris specialises in designing high quality, tailor-made journeys to Africa, Latin America, and Antarctica. Founded in 2002 by ex-investment bankers Victor Dizon and Jose Cortes, it has since arranged thousands of life-changing journeys for clients across Asia. A2A has offices in Hong Kong, Singapore, Manila, and New York City. Manila tel: +632.952.7414; e-mail: enquiry@a2asafaris.com; website: a2asafaris.com.

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owls, which are rare in the wild. Max told me that some safari enthusiasts would pay a hefty sum just to see them.

During dinner, I spoke to some of the guests who were on their 15th safari (they came on their private jet) and how, after all these years, they still find everything thrilling and are still able to marvel at nature.

Day 5On my last day at the safari, I was feeling melancholic and did not join Max on the drive. As we were heading out to catch our vehicle that would take us to the air strip to our next destination, Cape Town. Max told me that they drove so many hours that morning and didn’t see anything. But as they were heading back, they spotted two baby leopards near the camp. Leopards are rare sights because they are solitary animals. It was a fitting last photo of this unforgettable trip.

serene setting (From top) Captured at dawn, the rare Pel’s fishing owl; (opposite) Baby leopard