Cost estimation of finishes

Fabric and garment finishing

ByAyush GuhaJitendra Pal SinghP. TejasviShailja Murthy

Disclaimer: The prices given here are purely an estimate as the industry does not reveal the costing methods in the websites or otherwise.

INTRODUCTION- COST ESTIMATION OF FINISHESIntroduction

The properties of synthetic fibers, most important among them being polyamide, polyester and are essentially different from those of natural cellulosic and wool fibres. Hence the sequence of finishing operations is likely to be different. While cellulosic's require a resin finishing treatment to impart easy-care properties, synthetic fibers already have these easy-care criteria and require only a heat setting operation. The use of 100% synthetic textiles

Finishes for natural fibers.

Finishes for Synthetic fibers.

Finishes given to natural fibers

Mercerisation.

Crease Resist Finish.

Singeing.

Calendaring.

Sanforizing or Pre-shrinking.

Anti-microbial Finish.

Finishes for Synthetic Fibers

Heat Setting.

Stiffening and filling Process.

Hydrophilic Finishes.

Anti-pilling finish.

Anti-static finish.

Non-slip Finishes.

Fire Resistant or Flame Retardant Finish.

Chemical Finishes

Resin Finishes: Used on cotton or rayon, Keeps fabric smooth after washing and drying with little or no ironing needed

So-fieners : Generally used with resins to improve the way the fabric feels. May cause fastness problems

Soil Resistant Finishes: Used extensively on carpets and upholstery

Mechanical Finishes

Heat setting: Using high temperatures to stabilize fabrics containing

polyester, nylon, or triacetate, Not effective on cotton or rayon.

Raising: Two main types 1. Napping 2.Sueding

Shearing : Use of rotary blade(s) to trim raised surfaces, particularly

napped fabrics, to a uniform height

Heat setting

A. Using high temperatures to stabilize fabrics containing polyester, nylon, or triacetate

B. Not effective on cotton or rayon

C. May be performed in fabric form or garment form

D. May cause shade variation from side-to-side if done prior to

dyeing; may change the shade if done after dyeing

COST:10-15Rs more per meter

PARAMETERS: Energy for steam, tempaerature, pressure, etc.

2. RAISING

There are mainly two types of raising. They are;

1. NAPPING: Using wire-covered rolls to "dig out" individual fiber ends to the surface

COST: 1-5 Rs more per meter

2. SUEDING: Using abrasive-covered rolls (sandpaper, emery cloth, etc.) to produce shorter pile surface - does cause an apparentshade change. Such special type of raised surface fabric is corduroy

COST: 1-5 Rs more per meter

Raising

III. SHEARING

A. Use of rotary blade(s) to trim raised surfaces, particularlynapped fabrics, to a uniform height

B. This reduces the tendency of the fabric surface to mat and alsoreduces the pilling tendency

C. Special types of blades and conveyer belts can produce pattern effects on the surface

COST: 5-10 Rs more per meter

Shearing

IV. CALENDERING

Calendering is a final process in which heat and pressure are applied to a fabric by passing it between heated rollers, imparting a flat, glossy, smooth surface. Luster increases when the degree of heat and pressure is increased. Calendering is applied to fabrics in which a smooth, flat surface is desirable, such as most cottons, many linens and silks, and various man-made fabrics. It is usually an essential process at textile processing units.

1. SIMPLE CALENDERING: 3. SCHREINER CALENDERING:COST: 1-5 Rs more per meter COST: 5-10 Rs more per meter

2. FRICTIONAL CALENDERING: 4. CIRE CALENDERING:COST: 5-10 Rs more per meter COST: 10-15 Rs more per meter

Calendering

DECATISING

In decatising, the wool fabric is rolled up onto a perforated decatising drum under controlled tension. The fabric is steamed for up to ten minutes and then cooled down by drawing ambient air through the fabric roll. The piece is then reversed and steamed again in order to ensure that an even treatment is achieved.There are several quite different types of decatising;

batch decatising continuous decatising wet decatising machinesdry decatising machines

COST: 10-15 Rs more per meter

Decasting

SANFORIZING "COMPRESSIVE SHRINKAGE“)

It is a mechanical finishing technique for producing cotton fabric with less than 1% shrinkage during laundering.

Damp fabric is placed on a taut felt blanket or rubber belt that passes around a feed-in roller. The fabric is forced to stretch at the outside curve of the blanket where it is ironed by an electrically heated metal shoe. The blanket then reverses its direction around a steam-heated drum. At this point the blanket surface is shortened and the fabric adhering to it is forced to conform with the blanket of the compress and is dried.

COST: 1-5 Rs more per meter

Sanforizing "Compressive Shrinkage“

Costing Chemical Finishes

Introduction

Can be defined as use of chemicals on fabric to achieve desired properties

Usually they take place before garment making and after coloration or dyeing

It can be durable or non durable Mostly done on emulsions, water

being the base solution.

Parameters for costThe type of fabric we are using

The chemicals used

The labor involved

The time required

Factors effecting cost of finishingProperty Pick up Effect on cost

Fiber type Higher wet pickup with hydrophyllic fibers

Increased cost for more fine fibers

Yarn construction More pick up with low twist or open yarns

Cost increases for yarns with more twist

Fabric construction More pickup in open weave Tightly woven fabric take more dip time therby increasing cost

Wettability

Pressure of squeeze rolls Higher tempreture lower pickup Increase in pressure inccreases cost

Length of immersion time More immersion time more is cost

Viscosity of emulsion Higher viscosity, higher pickup

Tempreture of the emulsion Tempreture changes with viscosity and pressure

Higher tempreture increases cost

Concentration of emulsion Higher concentration leads to less dip time

More concentrated solution are more costly

Pricing of chemicals based on function

FUNCTIONAL FINISHES

Functional finishes or special purpose finishes are applied to textile to enhance its performance in a specific area.

Although these finishes do not alter the appearance of textiles they do address some consumer problem or make the textile substrate suitable for a specific purpose.

Table 1: Classification of functional finish

1. Stabilization : Shrinkage control

a. Relaxation shrinkage and finishes – e.g. Sanforisingb. Shape retention finishes – Durable press finishes

2. Appearance retention finishes

a. Soil and stain release finishesb. Abrasion resistance finishesc. Anti slip finishesd. Fume-fading-resistance finishese. Surface or back coating e.g. Carpet back coatingf.  Light stabilizing finishesg. Pilling resistance finishes

3. Comfort related finishesCost:

a. Porosity control [water proof] finishesb. Water absorbent finishesc. Anti static finishesd. Fabric softening [Enzyme/bio finishing]

4. Biological control finishes

a. Insect and moth proof finishesb. Rot proof finishesc. Antimicrobial finishesd. Mould and Mildew control finishese. Microencapsulated finishes

5. Safety related finishes

a. Flame retardant finishesb. Liquid barrier finishes [protection from hazard liquor]c. Light reflecting finishes

The challenges facing the finishing

industry have intensified in the last one decade, with finishers faced with the new task of striving to survive in this global and highly competitive market.

Consumers demand more durability, more functionality and more cost effectiveness from their clothing.

INSISTENCE ON VALUE FOR MONEY

1: Consumer is the king 2: Value for money concept 3: Markets looking for constant change in the product mix The normal life cycle of cotton, which was only up to finished fabric, in the early 1960s, is now extended to branded and specialty products

Finish name Cost increment

Anti slip finishes Rs. 10-15 per meter

Soil and stain release finishes Rs 15-20 per meter

Abrasion resistance finishes Rs 12-15 per meter

Porosity control [water proof] finishes Rs 15-22 per meter

Anti static finishes Rs 12-15 per meter

Flame retardant finishes Rs 15- 20 per meter

Fragrance finishes Rs 5-10 per meter

THANK YOU!