Chemical regulation & opportunities for EcoDesign - Case studies in textile Supply Chain - February...

Chemical regulations

& opportunities for Ecodesign :

Case studies in the textile supply chain

P. Drapeau & B. Kosinski February 2014

1. EcoMundo

February 2014 P. Drapeau & B. Kosinski

Chemical regulations & opportunities for Ecodesign: Case studies in the textile supply chain

Triple expertise

Ecodesign

expertise

Software

expertise

2001 2007

Projects

EDIT

ECODIS EcoMundo

is launched Regulatory

expertise

Multidisciplinary team 35 engineers of which 9 PhD

for innovative solutions

International presence Paris & Vancouver

2014

Supply

Chain

specialist



2. Services



Regulatory expertise



3. Software



The ‘REACH Factory’ suite

EcoMundo has designed several innovative web tools

Workers safety

Regulated use of substances

GHS / CLP compliance

SVHC Traceability

Use cases collection

Safety Data Sheet Management


4. Ecodesign



Eco-design integrated supply chain

Our eco-design expertise

• Environmental Assessment (LCA / SLCA)

• Data collection and LCA database modeling

• Software development (Simplified LCA tools)

• Environmental innovation

Worgroups: REACH SVHC and, LCA, eco-innovation ...

40 members: multi-sectoral industrial club

Objective: Develop a non-competitive research in the field of eco-design of products and recycling

EcoMundo participated in the editing of the guide "Life Cycle Analysis - A tool for quantifying environmental service of your strategy."

www.clustercreer.eu



http://www.clustercreer.eu/

CORINE platform

Web solution

Collaborative tools involving

supply chain actors

Technical, environmental

and economical data

Educational and intuitive

approach

ILCD database format



5. Textile case studies Introduction



Plan

Introduction • Consumer request

• Market trends

• Forewords on chemicals and regulations

• Thinking about EU ?

• Life cycle thinking

3 cases of products sold and used in Europe • Cotton T-shirt from India

• Polyester Sweat from Europe

• Cashmere coat from China

Conclusion : how to go forward ?



Consumer expectations

71% ?

ready to pay more for more sustainable products 56%

asking more information on manufacture production

Icons made by WPZOOM - Creative Commons (Attribution-Share Alike 3.0 Unported) - http://www.wpzoom.com



Market trends

Organic cotton

World market: from 6,8 billions $ in

2011 to 8,9 in 2012 +31 %

World production: from 151,000 tons

to 139,000 (2011-2012) -8%

=> Demand higher than supply

European Ecolabel

From 340 to 420 products from 2011 to 2012 +22%



Forewords on Chemicals and

regulations

Cloth

Manufacture

End of life

Chemicals are extensively and growingly used in textiles (+20%

chemical fibres since 1991) and at nearly every stage of the product

life cycle.

42,8 26,4

3,5 1,2

World production (MT)

Syntheticchemical fibres

Naturalvegetal fibres

Artificialchemical fibres

Natural animalfibres

• It is difficult to know which hazardous

chemicals, if any, are present in

textiles because supply chains are

long, complex and heterogeneous

(lots of SMEs)

• There is no unified legislation at the

EU level.

• Legislations throughout the world do

not match.

• There are however voluntary labels

and retrictions. February 2014 P. Drapeau & B. Kosinski


Thinking about EU ?

TEXTILES

REACH (1907/2006) and CLP (1272/2008)

regulations

Labelling and marking of fibres Regulation

1007/2011

Etc. Biocides Products

Regulation 528/2012

General Product Safety Directive 2001/95

Industrial Emissions Directive 2010/75



Life cycle thinking

Main steps of a

textile product Fibres

Cloth

Manufacture

Use End of life

Icons made by WPZOOM - Creative Commons (Attribution-Share Alike 3.0 Unported) - http://www.wpzoom.com Icons made by Visual Pharm - Creative Commons (Attribution-Share Alike 3.0 Unported) - http://icons8.com/



http://icons8.com/

5. Textile case studies 3 examples



Case studies

Case 1

Cotton T-shirt 2

Polyester Sweat 3

Cashmere Coat

Nature Textile

production

Natural vegetal Fibres 36%

26,4 Mt

Chemical Fibres 62%

42,8 Mt (artificial Fibres included)

Natural animal Fibres 2%

1,2 Mt

Main origin 1. China 2. India

1. Asia 2. Europe

1. China 2. Mongolia

Icons made by Visual Pharm - Creative Commons (Attribution-Share Alike 3.0 Unported) - http://icons8.com/



http://icons8.com/

Case 1 : Cotton T-shirt




http://icons8.com/


Fibres & Cloth - India

Cotton plantation & Washing

Fibres

Weaving & Fashioning

Chemical regulation - Insecticides Act,

1968 and Insecticides Rules, 1971 -> list of pesticides banned for manufacture, import and use

- Ban of Azo dyes chemicals since June 23, 1997.

EcoDesign - No pesticide class 1

(ex : Endosulfan) - Low hydric stress

region - Low water use - Install wastewater

treatment or select supplier having one

- Low sizing use - Install counter flow

washing systems





Manufacture, Use & End of life - Europe

Finishing and

distribution

Use and end of life

EcoDesign - Loss reduction and

reuse - Select low weight

packaging with recycled material

- Low temperature washing product

- Assess product environmental performance

- Best practice advice to users

- Recovery service


Chemical regulation - Art. 7,1, 7,2 and 33

of REACH about substances in articles

- Art. 58 of the BPR on treated articles

- Application of the GPSD. Eg: Dimethyl fumarate (in 2009)

- Fibres labelling regulation – new fibres (art. 6 & annex II)



Case 2 : Polyester sweat



http://icons8.com/


Fibres - Europe

Petrol

extraction

Fibre synthesis

EcoDesign

- Use recycled Fibres

- Reduce VOC emissions during spinning

- Reduce Antimony content


Chemical regulation - Registration under

REACH – art.6.3 - IED (Industrial

Emissions directive) : it includes the IPPC (directive on integrated Pollution Prevention and Control)




Cloth – Europe

Fashioning

Distribution,

use and end of life

EcoDesign

- No use of halogenated dye carriers

- No use of phtalate or PVC

- (…) - Recycling service

(use mono-materials)


Chemical regulation - Application of annex XIV and XVII of REACH as well as the candidate list.



Case 3 : Cashmere Coat




http://icons8.com/


Fibres - China

Breeding

Knitting

Chemical regulation - Decree 591 (2011)

: Regulations on Safe Management of Hazardous Chemicals

EcoDesign

- No desertification area

- Washing without organochlorines but with biodegradable detergent

- No mineral oil (with hydrocarbons) prefer vegetal oils





Cloth - Europe

Fashioning

Distribution,

use and end of life

Chemical regulation - Art. 7,1, 7,2 and 33

of REACH about substances in articles

- Art. 58 of the BPR on treated articles

- Application of the GPSD. Eg: Dimethyl fumarate (in 2009)

- Fibres labelling regulation – new fibres (art. 6 & annex II)

EcoDesign - For small

productions, chose transfer or numerical printing

- (…) - No change after

washing - Repair service




5. Textile case studies How to go forward ?



The case of chemicals (1)

Why going forward with chemical regulations ?

Anticipate clients’ questions

Anticipate bans

Protect your own legal responsibility and avoid penalties

Take opportunity to ensure higher quality

Preserve your brand image

Innovate

Use it as a marketing opportunity

Preserve your supply flow

Protect the health of your employees



The case of chemicals (2)

How to go forward with the traceability of substances ?

A difficulty : as often, the persons who are in the best position to provide the

information at the best cost (i.e. at the lesser cost) are the most remoted from

the pressure of clients and do not want to do so.

Two strategies exist to retrieve information :

Article

Materials

Substances

Top- bottom approach

Article

Materials

Substances

Bottom-up approach



How to go forward ?

Fibres

Cloth

Manufacture

Use

End of life


Main steps of a

textile product



http://icons8.com/

How to go forward ?

Case 1 : frugality • Fibres of recycled cotton

• Use of modular apparel

• Second hand market

The original Versalette by Seamly.co



How to go forward ?

Case 2 : technology • Trying apparel before use

• Production with no loss and avoiding fad

• Use of human mechanical energy to produce electricity

• Self-cleaning apparel

• No ironing needs



How to go forward ?

Case 3 : fashion rental service • Apparel location program

• Developing local shops

• Integrated repair chain



www.ecomundo.eu

Contact

Head office

Paris, FRANCE

195, rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau

92130 Issy-les-Moulineaux

FRANCE

Téléphone : +33 1 83 64 20 54

Email : [email protected]

Annexes



Annex I – substances restricted

under REACH and used in textiles



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