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Chapter 10 Integrated Pest Management

A publication of the Louisville Water Company

Wellhead Protection Plan, Phase III Source Reduction Grant # X9-96479407-0

Chapter 10 Integrated Pest Management

The Basics of IPM Integrated Pest Management, (IPM), is a systematic approach to managing pests that focuses on long-term prevention or suppression with minimal impact on human health, the environment, and non-target organisms. IPM incorporates all reasonable measures to prevent pest problems by properly identifying pests, monitoring population dynamics, and using cultural, physical, biological, or chemical pest population control methods to reduce pests to acceptable levels.

Although the home and garden environment contains a large variety of organisms, only a very small percentage of these organisms can be defined as pests. For the most part, these organisms live together in harmony, and play an important role in the healthy ecology of the household and its environs. The goal is to manage a pest problem without upsetting the natural harmony of the organisms that compose the ecology of an area.

The first step in IPM is to understand which organisms are pests and what damage they are likely to cause. Once the pest has been identified and the potential damage assessed, a tolerance limit, or action threshold is set, which represents a number of pests which are allowed in the setting. Once these factors are established, a creative, effective, and commonsense management approach can be undertaken. IPM focuses on the prevention of pests and the use of control methods that are most effective and present the least risk to people and the environment when pest problems arise.

An IPM uses all pest management resources available. It does not necessarily eliminate all pests, but attempts to limit the damage to acceptable levels.

Pest or beneficial insect? This ground beetle plays an important role in the total ecology of a backyard, acting as a predator for certain

‘pests’.

Practicing IMP does not eliminate the use of all pesticides, but promotes their judicious use when and where it is needed. Using pesticides as a last resort, and choosing those that are least toxic makes sense.

When plants are diseased or injured by insects, or when pests are found in the house, avoid panic. Assess the severity of the problem and identify its cause, (a few ants in the kitchen do not constitute an infestation). If you do not know what the pest is, try to have it identified. Once the pest has been identified, attempt to learn more about the pest, as well as discuss management options that do not include the use of pesticides. Some pests are listed within this chapter, in order to facilitate the identification of common pest that you may encounter in your home or garden. Additional information should be available at your local Cooperative Extension Service, or state universities.

Chapter 10 Pest Control Options

One option is to do nothing. Often, a natural predator will move into the home or garden to reduce the pest problem. Allowing the damage to occur and letting nature take its course may help you to identify what plants you want to grow in your lawn in the future. Observation of the pest may help you to determine the types of mechanical or physical controls that may be used to keep the pest from entering your home or lawn.

A good pest management program includes a record-keeping system. Monitoring or scouting for the pest presence and damage is a fundamental practice in IPM. Visual monitoring as well as the use of various traps or detection devices are used. The data collected will help you decide what to do to manage the pest.

The program might be organized according to plants in the yard, the pests appearing on them, or the places that pests occur. Include information on what you did or did not do to manage the pest. Be sure to include information on the outcome of your actions.

Ladybugs may be used as natural predators to other insects.

It may prove helpful to draw a map of the yard showing trees, shrubs, garden, and lawn areas. Include other important features and label the plants. You should record significant events such as construction, lightning strikes, chemical spills, and occurrences of pests and natural enemies. The record, kept over the years, will provide an accurate picture of events that occur in the yard, garden, or house. This information will be invaluable in the future, if the pest problems recur. Sample IPM records may be found in APPENDIX I.

How do IPM systems work? IPM is not a single pest control action, it is a series of events designed to effectively manage pests to reduce them to acceptable levels. IMP requires planning and prevention, deciding when to act, what control methods to select, applying the method, deciding on the effectiveness of the action, and keeping records so that more informed decisions can be made at a later date. Successful IPM methods are based on three major areas:

1. Prevention

2. Monitoring

3. Controlling

Using an IPM approach in the home landscape will ensure that pesticides are used only when other management tactics have not controlled the pest problem at an acceptable level. It will also ensure that pesticides are used in a manner to minimize associated risks. Determining whether or not the long-term health of the plant/home/affected member is threatened, whether the injury is acute and temporary or merely of minor consequence, and other similar parameters should be used to determine the acceptable level of a pest problem. IPM has several important benefits for the homeowner:

♦ Reduces the need for pesticides by using several pest management methods;

♦ Balances proper and minimal use of chemical pesticides with the need to manage pests;

♦ Helps to protect the environment from excessive and unnecessary pesticide application; and

♦ Fosters sound structures and healthy plants. Well-maintained homes and lawns better withstand damage from insects, weeds, and other pests.


According to the US EPA, 100,000,000 pounds of active ingredients in pesticides were applied in homes and gardens in the US in 2001. Of that amount, 13% were used in herbicides, 60% were used in insecticides and miticides, and 16% were used in fungicides. It is also reported that over 80% of the total pesticides used by homeowners in other states were used in lawn care. Application of pesticides by professional, certified applicators was not included within this total, and if included, would raise these numbers significantly.

Percent of Total Pesticides Used by Homeowners

12%

17%

71%

Herbicides Insecticides Fungicides

An Integrated Pest Management Program for the homeowner is an important aspect of reducing the use and need of pesticide products where possible, enabling the homeowner to determine when a real problem exists, and helps the homeowner select a good control for the problem. Record-keeping enables the homeowner to monitor the effects of non-chemical and chemical controls so as to further assist the homeowner in the decision-making process.

Although it is extremely important to remember that total eradication of a pest population is not the goal in most cases, it is equally important to recognize that sometimes it is. Eradication is by all means desirable when termites are damaging a structure, or when pests present the possibility of disease transmission to people or pets.

A preferred strategy in most pest control situations is to think in terms of reducing pest activity to a level which poses only minimal potential for damage to or annoyance of the host, be it plant, animal, or structure. For instance, it is not necessarily desirable to kill all the spiders in the home; most of us can live with a few spiders here and there. However, we’re not at all willing to accommodate even a single German Cockroach or mouse—known disease carriers.

First Step – Planning Ahead According to a state-wide poll of Kentucky households, 93% expressed concern over finding insects within their home. More than half indicated that a single cockroach, cricket, or spider would prompt them to use a can of bug spray or call an exterminator. Despite the immediate reaction of discovering a pest within the home, most pests encountered indoors have either flown in or crawled in from outdoors. Therefore, one of the best methods of control is to deny the pest entry into the home.

Pest Proofing Your House – One of the best ways of limiting unwanted intrusions by pests is to deny them entry. Many pests seek refuge in homes and other buildings in response to outside conditions, such as changes in weather, or changes in availability of food or shelter. Below are some helpful tips for blocking a pest’s entry into your home.

1. Caulk cracks around windows, doors, fascia boards, etc. Use a good quality silicone or acrylic latex caulk. Although somewhat less flexible than pure silicone, latex-type caulks clean up easily are can be painted. Caulks that dry clear are often easier to use because they don’t show mistakes.

2. Buy a good caulking gun. Look for a caulking gun that includes a back-off trigger to halt the flow of caulk when desired, a built-in “slicer” to trim the end off of new caulking tubes, and a nail to use in puncturing the end seal. Prior to caulking, cracks should be cleaned and any peeling caulk or paint removed to aid adhesion.

Prevent entry of pests by

caulking windows and doors.


(Smooth the caulk after application with a damp rag or a moistened finger for a more professional look.)

3. Install door sweeps or thresholds at the base of all exterior entry doors. While lying on the floor, check for light filtering under the door. Or, go outside at night and check doors and windows for light filtering to the outside. Gaps of 1/6th inch or less permit entry of spiders and insects; ¼ inch wide gaps, (the diameter of a pencil), is large enough to permit entry of mice; and ½ inch wide gaps are enough to permit the entry of rats. Pay particular attention to lower and upper corners as this is often where pests enter.

4. Seal garage doors with a bottom seal constructed of rubber, (vinyl seals poorly in cold weather). Gaps under sliding glass doors can be sealed by lining the bottom track with ½ to ¾ inch wide foam weather-stripping.

5. Seal utility openings where pipes and wires enter the foundation and siding, (around outside faucets, receptacles, gas meters, clothes dryer vents, and telephone/cable TV wires). These are common entry points for such pests as rodents, ants, spiders, and yellow jackets. Holes can be plugged with caulk, cement, or urethane expandable foam, steel wool, copper mesh, or other suitable sealant.

6. Repair gaps and tears in window and door screens. Doing so will help to reduce flies, gnats, mosquitoes, and midges during the summer, as well Sealing utility openings is a good way to prevent

rodents from entering your home.

as cluster flies, lady bugs, and other overwintering pests in the fall. Certain insects, in particular leafhoppers and hackberry psylids, are small enough to fit through standard mesh window screen. The only way to deny entry of these pests is to keep windows closed during periods of adult emergence.

7. Install 1/4 inch wire mesh, (also known as hardware cloth), over attic, roof, and crawl space vents in order to prevent entry of birds, bats, squirrels, rodents, and other wildlife. Be sure to wear gloves when cutting and installing hardware cloth, as the wire edges have razor-sharp edges. Invest in a chimney cap to exclude birds, squirrels, raccoons, and other nuisance wildlife.

8. When labor-intensive comprehensive pest-proofing is impractical, consider applying an exterior barrier treatment with insecticides. Pest-proofing can be supplemented by an exterior treatment of insecticides. Homeowners will get the most for their money by applying long-lasting liquid

This raccoon has made a comfortable nest in a homeowner’s chimney.


formulations containing synthetic Pyrethroids stocked by some hardware/lawn and garden shops. Remember to read the label and follow all instructions carefully.

If you decide to install a barrier, use a compressed air or hose end sprayer, treat at the base of all exterior doors, garage, and crawl space entrances, around foundation vents and utility openings, and up underneath siding. Select the least toxic pesticide available to do the job. Homeowners who choose not to tackle these activities may wish to hire a professional pest control firm. Be sure to read our “Choosing a Pest Control Professional” section about the best way to select a professional pest control company.

9. Remove leaves and grass clippings from around the foundation of the house, and clean out window wells to remove hiding places for pests.

Pest Proofing Inside Your House – In order to effectively pest-proof the inside of your home, you have to “think like a pest”. Pests basically have the same needs as humans: food, shelter, and water. Eliminate sources that provide for these needs and you’re well on your way to controlling a pest problem. Below are some helpful hints for preventing pests inside your home:

1. Vacuum regularly and empty trash every day. Contain trash in heavy duty bags that are less prone to breaking and leaking. Seal them securely. Keep garbage cans tightly closed. Once you vacuum, empty the bag and remove it from your home.

2. Rinse out garbage cans to reduce odors that attract pests. Wipe up spills on counter tops and floors.

3. Store pet foods in pest-proof containers.

4. Eliminate standing water in flowerpot saucers, watering cans, and gutters.

5. Reduce clutter, which can be a warm, dark, habitat for pests.

Keep garbage tightly closed to prevent pest entry.

6. Store the items that you want to keep in pest-proof containers. Using cardboard boxes may not be a good idea, as cockroaches eat glue and will readily take up residence in the cardboard. If you use cardboard boxes, place the box in a large black garbage bag, and seal the bag. You can leave the box in the plastic garbage bag out in the sun for a few hours, which will kill most insects.

7. Keep stored items a few inches from the wall so that you can more easily check for pest infestations.

8. Prevent beetles, weevils, and grain moths by storing flour, cornmeal, and rice inside the refrigerator. If that isn’t possible, freeze them overnight to kill any pests after you bring them home from the grocery. It is reported that you can add a bay leaf or a cinnamon stick to an opened bag to repel these pests, without changing the taste of the food.

9. Make sure to thoroughly clean and rinse the kitchen sink each night to ensure there is no residue left to attract unwanted bugs into your home.

Store flour, cornmeal, rice, and other grains in the refrigerator.


10. It is reported that you can use essential oils to repel pests. For example, pure peppermint oil repels mice and rats, and has a pleasant odor. Soak a few cotton balls in peppermint oil, and then strategically place them around your home, especially the kitchen and pantry. Stuff them into any holes that you may find. According to research conducted by Iowa State University, catnip oil repels roaches. ISU reports that make a catnip solution to spray around baseboards by using 1 teaspoon of essential oil with one quart of water. Be sure to try it in an unobtrusive spot before applying the repellent all over the kitchen. Make sure the mixture doesn’t stain wallpaper or painted baseboards, and make sure you remove your pets until the spray has dried. Check with your veterinarian prior to use if you have cats in the house.

11. Store opened boxes and bags of potato chips, crackers, cereals, and other foods in pest proof containers, and keep them tightly sealed. Prevent spillage by placing them in a neat fashion in the cabinets.

More Pest Prevention Strategies in the Lawn and Garden – Selecting plants for your lawn and garden is as important as using other pest prevention methods. Careful selection of native plants and other disease-resistant exotic plants is a critical first step in avoiding potential pest problems in the lawn and garden. This will require identification of the cultural and environmental conditions required for each plant under consideration for the home landscape. For example, does the plant:

♦ Prefer full sun, partial sun/partial shade, or full shade;

♦ Require moist soil conditions, or tolerate dry conditions; and

♦ Tolerate heavy clay soil or require loamy or sandy soil conditions?

To learn more about native plant selections for Kentucky, please refer to:

1. Chapter 2, A Partial Listing of Kentucky Wildflowers;

2. Chapter 3, A Partial Listing of Kentucky’s Native Grasses;

3. Chapter 6, A Brief Guide to Kentucky’s Non-native, Invasive Species, Common Weeds, and Other Unwanted Plants; and

4. Chapter 8, Garden Design with Native Plants.

Residents of other states may also benefit from this guide book, as many of the plants native to Kentucky may also be native to the surrounding states. Kentucky has an unusual plant diversity in that it provides many different climate types, which are echoed in the surrounding states.

It is especially important to determine if the particular plant species under consideration is prone to disease, insect, or mite problems. If the species is commonly afflicted with pest problems, find out if pest-resistant strains are available. Purchase native plants when possible, which have a natural resistance to many pests.

It is also important to make sure that plants you purchase have an adequate cold-hardiness for the area in which they will be planted. (The plant will be able to withstand the expected lowest temperatures.) Don’t assume that a plant has the needed hardiness rating just because it is for sale in your area—it may not be.

Although tiny, the red garden mite is fairly easy to spot because of its bright

red color. This is a beneficial insect!


Check potential plant purchases for signs of stress or pest problems before purchasing. Do not purchase plants that are pest-infested, or show evidence of significant stress. Be sure to check the root system and avoid purchasing plants whose roots are not white in the center, or whose roots are weak, soft, flaccid, or sloughing, (i.e. the outermost root tissue is shedding). Do not dig into the plant pot unless you are ready to purchase the plant, as you don’t wish to damage the merchandise.

Plants that are in poor health are weak and more susceptible to disease or insect and mite pests. They are also easily out-competed by weeds. Keep plants vigorous by providing them with adequate water and nutrients. However, do not over-fertilize, which results in succulent, tender plant tissue that is prone to pest problems.

Avoid poor soil drainage since excessively wet soil conditions are detrimental to the root systems of most plants, and favor the development of many root rot pathogens. (Or, you can plant native plants that thrive in marshy soil, and mulching them heavily.) You can increase the drainage potential of your soil by working in more organic materials, especially in the poorly drained area, and by sloping additional soils away from the poor drainage area. Standing water can also contribute to pest populations by providing a breeding ground for the pests.

Standing water can provide breeding grounds for mosquitoes and other pests.

When seeding or transplanting flowers, you should follow the recommended planting dates for the species when at all possible. Planting too early or too late results in poor germination and stress, both of which can predispose plants to disease and other pest problems. Many pest problems can be avoided by planting at the recommended time.

In vegetable gardens or annual flower beds, it is beneficial to rotate crops from year to year. Rotating areas of the garden to crops in different plant families can prevent soil pest populations from building up to detrimental levels. For example, follow eggplants, peppers, potatoes, or tomatoes with an unrelated crop, such as cucumbers, gourds, melons, or squash or beans, peas, or other legumes. If a pest problem is identified in an area, rotating to an unrelated crop for several years may be necessary, depending on the pest.

Removing pest-infested plant debris reduces the chance for future infections. Raking and removing dead leaves in the fall reduces the chance for fungal disease outbreaks in the spring. This is because the overwintering fungal inoculums, which are harbored in infested leaves, is not present to initiate new infections in the spring. Likewise, pruning out diseased portions of branches back to healthy tissue can reduce further spread of the pathogen. Prune dead growth or diseased growth back to healthy white tissue. Disinfect pruning shears with rubbing alcohol between cuts to prevent the spread of certain pests on pruning tools.

Prune diseased or dead branches back to healthy white tissue to prevent further spread

of disease.

Remove annual bedding plants and crops from the garden at the end of the growing season, and remove weeds to help prevent the spread of pests and plant disease. When using native plants to provide food for wildlife, be sure to leave brown foliage and seed pods on the plants, in order to provide food and Chapter 10 Pest Control Options

shelter for wildlife and birds during the winter months. These can be trimmed back once new growth is noticed at the base of the plants in spring.

You can reduce the risk of common pest problems on woody shrubs and trees by following a few simple guidelines.

1. Set woody shrubs and trees at the proper planting depth. The structural root nearest the soil line should be placed no deeper than 1” to 3” below the soil surface, measuring 4” out from the trunk. (Structural roots are the large, woody roots that support the tree/shrub.) Note that structural roots are sometimes placed too deeply when potted or planted at the nursery. If this is the case, remove excess soil or potting medium so that plants can be set correctly in the landscape.

2. Avoid buying pot bound container plants. If circling roots are evident when the container is removed, try to tease the circling roots out to encourage growth of roots out of the root ball into the surrounding soil. Carefully cut away circling roots at the top of the root ball that may eventually enlarge, girdle the stem, and threaten the long-term health of the plant.

Planting trees and shrubs at the correct depth can help prevent future pest

problems.

3. Water adequately during establishment. (If rainfall is below 1 inch per week, provide enough water to bring the total to 1”. You can measure this by placing a paper cup or tin can buried in the soil next to the plant, to collect the amount of rainfall that has fallen.) Keep in mind that newly planted trees and shrubs require frequent irrigation during dry periods since their root balls will dry out before the surrounding soil. Less frequent, deeper irrigation is recommended over more frequent, shallow irrigation, since this will encourage the root systems to grow deeper into the soil profile.

4. Avoid causing damage to trunks, stems, and branches both during and after planting. Open wounds create entry points for wood decay organisms and other diseases or pests. Damage to woody plants often results from lawn mowers and trimming equipment.

5. Pruning at the wrong time of the year can predispose woody plants to pest problems. Plant species vary in their recommended pruning times. Contact your local Cooperative Extension Service or nursery to inquire about the proper pruning time for your woody plant, and for ways to avoid injury to trees and shrubs by using proper pruning techniques.

6. When in doubt, hire a professional to prune your shrubs and trees, OR to deal with pest problems that are beyond your control.

Plastic stringed “Weed Whackers” can cause significant damage to tree and shrub trunks, if not used carefully


Encourage Diversity – A diversity of plant species can reduce the risk of pest problems, since most pests are specific to a single plant species or family, and do not typically occur on a broad range of plant species. For example, planting only flowering dogwoods, rather than a diversity of tree species, in a landscape will make the development of high populations of dogwood pests more likely.

Adding compost or other organic matter to soil encourages a diverse population of soil microorganisms. Some of these microorganisms can be predatory, inhibitory, or may simple out-compete soil-borne pests and reduce pest populations in the soil. Organic matter also improves soil aeration and fertility. Choose some plants that provide pollen and nectar to entice beneficial insects into the home landscape. Some of these beneficial insects may prey upon pests, and reduce pest populations.

Avoid broad-spectrum pesticides that harm non-target organisms. If a pesticide application is necessary, try to find a pesticide product that will target only the pest. Using a pesticide that harms beneficial organisms can make pest problems worse. For example, spider mites are a common problem on many plants during hot, dry summers. Carbaryl insecticides, such as Sevin, may appear to offer an easy solution to a spider mite problem. However, along with spider mites, other mite species are present that do not harm the plant, but actually prey upon the spider mites that are injuring the plant. An application of carbaryl insecticide may harm the predaceous beneficial mites, as well as the spider mite pests. This can cause the pest problem to actually worsen. If it is necessary to use a pesticide that is likely to harm non-target organisms, spot treatment of the plant may be an option that can minimize harm to beneficial organisms.

To Mulch or Not to Mulch – Mulch serves several purposes besides dressing up your landscape. It helps retain soil moisture, important because most “feeder” roots (the roots that obtain water, air, and nutrients for the woody plant), grow in the top 12” of the soil.

Mulch that is deeper than 3” can smother feeder roots and compromise the tree’s health. Roots may actually grow up through too-thick mulch past the base of the tree and encircle the trunk, a condition called girdling. As the tree grows, these roots could choke the tree and cause a slow death.

Mulch should never touch the trunk of a tree. Because it holds moisture, mulch will keep the trunk damp, encouraging bark rot and disease. Also, insects and rodents may find the mulch to be a good home, complete with a snack bar—the tree trunk.

A “mulch volcano” can encourage pests and cause disease to the tree. Not only that, but

it is a waste of money and mulch!

Some helpful tips for mulch use:

1. Spread the mulch in a uniform layer that is from 2” to 3” deep and out at least to the drip line, the area beneath the outermost branch tips of the tree. You want the natural flare at the base of the trunk, where it meets the ground surface, to be exposed.

2. You can renew the mulch by adding a little to the surface each year. There is no need to remove old mulch, but don’t allow it to become deeper than 4”.

3. Because mulch helps prevent roots from drying out, especially when newly planted, use high quality natural mulch. Untreated plant mulches are the best, since they help improve soil quality as they decompose. These include wood chips, bark mulch, straw, leaves, and pine needles. Avoid wood-chip mulches made of construction materials, pressure treated lumber, and old telephone poles, as


these might contain harmful chemicals. Avoid non-natural mulches, because chemicals used in the mulch product may leach into the soil.

Mulch also provides a “safe zone” between your lawn and the trees or shrubs. This makes mowing easier, and protects the bark of the tree from mower or trimmer damage.

If you’d like to remove a “mulch volcano” from your tree, do it gradually over a few months. The trunk has been kept shaded and damp from the mulch, and it needs time to adjust to fresh air and sunshine. Sudden exposure to the sun can cause the trunk to crack. If the feeder roots have grown up through the mulch, they could dry out and lose their ability to absorb water. Remove a little mulch at a time, remembering the water the roots thoroughly for 20 minutes each time. You may lose some roots to exposure during this process, but in the end, your tree will benefit from having deeper roots and a healthier growing environment.

Sanitation is perhaps the most important cultural practice that can be used to help manage pests. It consists of removing plants or plant parts suspected of harboring diseases or insect pests. For example, affected leaves, twigs, or branches of a tree suffering from scales, (see Chapter 11), should be removed and destroyed to prevent the scale from spreading. Do not add infested branches, leaves, or twigs to the compost pile, because they may spread the disease. Remove garden weeds before they mature and produce seeds, and add them to your compost pile.

Plant residues from home vegetable gardening should be removed in the fall, and added to the compost bin. Some perennial and annual plant foliage can also be removed, but be careful to leave the seed heads on the plants, to serve as food for the wildlife during winter months, or for re-seeding purposes in the spring. Plant leaves and twigs that are not infested with disease or insect pests, and do not serve as food for wildlife, can be added to the compost bin.

Other examples of sanitation include removal of dead or diseased limbs from trees and shrubs; garbage management to discourage flies and rodents; careful attention to pet food areas; scrupulous cleanup of crumbs both in the pet food area and in the home, and elimination of paper bags, newspapers, and other materials that provide food and shelter for pests such as cockroaches and rodents.

Recycling paper bags, plastic containers, newspapers, and other materials is another good way to save the environment while preventing pests.

Recycling newspapers, plastic bottles, paper bags, etc., is a method of both

waste disposal and pest control.

Step Two – Scouting for Pests and Pest Identification A regular monitoring program is the basis of IPM decision-making. Often, we don’t notice pests until they have become a problem, but with a scouting or monitoring program, pests can be detected before they become a problem, and decisions made that are more environmentally friendly.

Remember, when evaluating potential pest problems in the home and landscape, keep an open mind—pests are not the only cause of plant problems. Circumstances and existing conditions are also common causes of plant decline and death. Commonly encountered circumstantial or condition-related problems that may be mistaken for pest problems include:

1. Chemical injury from herbicide drift;

2. Poor nutrients available to the plant; and

3. An assortment of environmental stress factors and cultural problems.


When confronted with declining plants, determine what circumstantial or environmental factors may be factors, such as drought, poor soil conditions, mechanical injury, poor planting, too much or too little fertilization, or chemical injury.

Once environmental factors have been ruled out, it is time to look for a pest that may be causing the problem. If you monitor your home and garden on a regular basis, you will likely have some idea what the pest might be, and ways you can handle the problem without using pesticides.

Scouting, or monitoring, is one of the best ways to cut down on the use of pesticides. By scouting, you can make sure that a problem really exists before you try to fight it. Scouting helps you catch problems in the early stages and makes is possible to “spot treat” only those areas that require attention, rather than broadcast chemicals across an entire lawn or house.

Monitoring plant growth, as well as other techniques, is an important part of

monitoring for pests in the home and landscape.

Spotting signs of damage doesn’t automatically mean you should take action. It all depends on the type of pest, the type of damage caused, the severity of the infestation, and our own personal preferences. For instance does the damage fall under the category of economic damage? Some insects, such as termites, cause economic damage to a home. In this case, the appearance of one insect may prompt the homeowner to contact a professional to perform an assessment of the home and perform extermination to eradicate the pest.

Does the damage present a health risk to your family, pets, or other wildlife? For example, the tick is a species that can be responsible for transmitting Lyme disease. Finding one tick does not necessarily mean that the entire yard should be fumigated. At what point does the homeowner act?

Does the damage present aesthetic damage or is a nuisance? Some homeowners do not want to see holes eaten into leaves, or all of the leaves eaten off of a plant—particularly the leaves of an ornamental plant, even if the plant is able to tolerate the damage. Even normally desirable plants may become a nuisance if they begin to take over an entire yard.

After you identify the problem, determine the potential for damage and how much you, and your home environment or landscape, can tolerate. Once you know what you are fighting, you can search for the least-toxic alternative for control. Use pesticides as a last resort.

Set up a scouting program – Decide how often you are going to monitor and what you will look for. Many pests can be detected in monthly cycles, but some areas may need to be checked more frequently. If you are using certain types of detection equipment, they should be monitored weekly, and some should be monitored daily. Are there any areas that have a history of problems? These areas should be monitored more closely than areas that have been particularly pest-free in the past. Do you work in your garden daily? You can decide to perform a scouting program only if you notice a pest, or if plants are not doing well. Do you work in your kitchen, basement, garage, or other potential trouble spots daily? Again, you can decide to perform a scouting program only if a problem is noticed. OR, you can decide to look for problems on a more regular basis.

Create an IPM notebook – Include the scouting schedule and results, as well as the treatment records discussed in Chapter 9. Other relevant information, such as fertilizer applications should be kept here, as well as scouting forms and maps. Example forms are included in APPENDIX 1.


Draw a map of your yard and home – Keep copies of the map, with any pests noted, in the IPM notebook, as previously discussed in Chapter 9. (See Chapter 9, APPENDIX I for copies of maps and other forms. Make sure that you date the results of the scouting or monitoring program, and keep these in the IPM notebook.

Get the right equipment for scouting – Purchase and maintain the proper equipment so that your scouting expeditions may be performed quickly and efficiently. This list is a suggested starting point, and should be modified by the homeowner depending on the types of pests found.

TABLE 1 -- Tools Used in Scouting

Tool Use Magnifying glass Examine pests or disease for identification purposes. Blank note forms or scouting forms, pencil Record observations on forms. Sticky cards, clothespins Sticky cards may be purchased at your local hardware

store. Place them at strategic areas around your yard or home to collect pest specimens for identification. Clothespins may be used to attach sticky cards to stakes or other areas to collect flying insects, or attached to a stem to collect insects or dust that falls from the plant. Before collecting a sample, put on the latex gloves. If collecting an insect, the small paint brush may be used to apply a drop of rubbing alcohol on the insect to kill it. Tweezers can help reduce the risks of stings or bites. If collecting diseased plants, collect an entire diseased leaf, if possible. Place a white note card and the sample in the plastic bag, seal the bag, and label the bag with the date, time of collection, and describe the place of collection. Or, if sending a sticky card elsewhere for identification, be sure to place the sticky card in a sealed plastic bag.

Rubber or latex gloves, rubbing alcohol, plain what note cards, tweezers, small artist’s brush, small permanent marker, and small sealable, (zip lock), plastic bags.

Large and small plastic garbage bags Garbage bags may be used to isolate specific plants from others to prevent the spread of disease. Collect trash generated during the scouting process. Wrap boxes or other items infested with insects.

Soap and water After handling a diseased plant or insect, wash gloves thoroughly with soap and water to prevent the spread of the infestation.

Place these items in a plastic bucket or some other easy-to-carry container before your begin your scouting expedition. You may also want to purchase fly paper, which removes the offending pest while helping you monitor their population:

Do not use traps for rodents or wildlife unless you are certain that there is a problem. Read the label carefully, and follow all directions. Make sure that children, pets, and other wildlife is protected from poison baits or other dangerous products.

Fly paper serves a dual purpose—not only does it monitor the number of flies or other flying

insects present, it also removes them.


When planning specific observation points around your home and garden, the most efficient route is a zigzag path, with ten sampling sites per 1000 square feet. In your home, you may wish to place sticky paper, or create sampling sites in specific “problem” areas. A consistent schedule is necessary in order to accurately observe pest activity. You may wish to check some sites more frequently than others, in order to accurately assess a pest problem. When completing the scouting activities, do not wear light colored clothing, as this may actually attract some insects, increasing the count erroneously.

Unusual insects may be found occasionally on the sticky cards. If an unknown species is trapped more than twice, it should be identified. If you can’t identify the pest, (more about pest identification to come), you should take the sample to your Cooperative Agent, nursery, pest control professional, or other professional. (Most universities have an entomology department.)

Pest Identification – One of the most important aspects of IPM is correct identification of the pest. Pests may be insects, fungi and molds, or wildlife—basically anything that can cause economic damage or become a health hazard.

Not all insects are pests, and some are actually beneficial to your home and garden, because they are predators to specific pests and prevent them from becoming a problem. Chapter 11 contains information about ‘bug’ identification. The Chapter will help the homeowner to identify insect pests, as well as insects that are beneficial to the home and lawn environment. Butterflies are listed, as well, and other pests that are not true insects, but spiders, mollusks, etc.

Step 3 – Developing a Strategy to Control the Pests When various pest management strategies—exclusion of the pest, prevention, sanitation methods, etc.—are used in conjunction with regular inspections of the home and lawn environment to monitor and manipulate pest activity, the process is called Integrated Pest Management. In most cases, an IPM approach is considered sensible, environmentally sound, and will keep pest levels and damage at levels that do not create economic problems or aesthetic problems.

It is extremely important to remember that total eradication of a pest population is not the goal in most cases. In some cases, total eradication is the goal. For example, eradication is extremely desirable when termites are damaging a home, or a pest presents the possibility of disease transmission to people or pets. Effective pest management and reduced use of pesticides are compatible. Pesticides used correctly and judiciously are good tools for pest control. However, pesticides should not be used if non-pesticidal approaches can solve the problem.

Termites can cause severe damage to homes.

Selection of the most appropriate pest management method in a particular situation should be preceded by accurate pest identification and a survey of the site to determine the exact location and extent of the pest problem.

Persistent pest problems may necessitate consulting a pest management professional who is properly trained to identify pests and provide the safest, most cost-effective approach for control or elimination.

Some people try to formulate their own pesticides, using household products. This can be a dangerous practice. Many household chemicals are toxic, and mixing several of them together can result in combinations that are injurious to people, pets, and plants. This is especially true when concoctions are applied to food crops in home vegetable gardens, or when concoctions are applied within the home. Remember than these concoctions have not been tested by the US EPA! Chapter 10 Pest Control Options


Once the pest has been identified, and the extent of the infestation noted on the household/lawn maps, various methods of control can be applied. Methods of control can include the use of pesticides, but also include cultural, biological, or other non-chemical means of control. Once you have your IPM notebook set up, your property ‘mapped’, and a monitoring program set up—watch the pests, determine if the pest has become a problem that must be addressed, if only to prevent further damage, select methods of control, and monitor the results of your actions.

When a chemical control is listed as having been recommended by the Kentucky Department of Agriculture, Cooperative Extension Service, or the University of Kentucky’s Entomology Facts, the homeowner uses the product at his own risk. The use of some of the products recommended as a chemical control may not be legal in states outside of Kentucky, and it is recommended that the homeowner consult with their local County Agent or Cooperative Extension personnel prior to using any general use chemical pesticide. Louisville Water Company does not accept any responsibility for the application of or intended use of any product or general use chemical listed in these pages. These are recommendations that have been researched and listed here as a general help to the homeowner.

Methods of Non-chemical Control of Insect Pests Managing pests inside the home or in the lawn can be a challenge. The fist step is to identify the pest and the potential damage they can cause. Next, you need a strategy for managing them, choosing the best strategy for your situation. Non-chemical methods of control are often very effective. Limiting the pest’s access to the home is a great way of preventing pests from becoming an infestation. Sanitation methods, such as vacuuming, removal of spoiled food, removal of garbage and throwing away un-needed items can also help.

If you are having difficulty managing a household or lawn pest, you may wish to contact a Certified Pest Control Operator. Look for a company that uses the least toxic pest management practices. You will need to describe the pest problem, possibly collect and keep samples of the pest. You will need to tell the Pest Control Operator when and where the pests have been seen, and any methods of control that you have used to manage the pest. To be successful in managing the pest populations, it is important to follow all recommendations made by the pest management company, especially in making repairs and maintaining the structure.

Table 5 lists some non-chemical controls for common pests found inside the home and in the lawn. If the pest that you have identified is not listed below, then non-chemical controls are not known at this time, and, the homeowner must rely on preventative practices, (discussed in Chapter 10), or consulting with a professional.

Table 2 – Non-Chemical Control for Common Household and Lawn Pests Type Name Method of Non-chemical Control

Ants Allegheny Mound Ants If an infestation occurs outdoors, boiling water poured on shallow nests may be effective. Using a shovel, hoes, or other tool, scrape away the top of the nest to expose the tunnels and passageways into the nest. Be prepared for the ants to defend their nest, so wear long pants, which are tucked into boots or long socks. Use a brush to remove the ants from your clothing. Then pour boiling water slowly down the holes. Be prepared to use a lot of boiling water to kill the ants and their eggs, approximately one gallon per square foot of mound diameter. Try to keep the boiling water from pooling on the ground surface, and soaking into the surrounding soils.



Carpenter Ants New infestations are almost always associated with wet or moist wood, but infestation may continue after wood is dried. Repair moisture problems around windows, chimneys, plumbing, and porches. Clean out clogged gutters, remove stumps and logs, move woodpiles away from buildings. Coarse sawdust is sometimes seen near the nest site. Locate and eliminate ants in nest by using a bagged vacuum cleaner. Throw away vacuum bag in the trash immediately after removal. Baits may eliminate a colony, but if conditions are conducive, more may move in later. Or, if you have located the nest, you may carefully drill 1/8” holes in the wall into the nest, and puff boric acid into the holes. NEVER introduce a liquid or insert metal-tipped devices into the all near an electrical outlet.

Large Yellow Ants

Ants, (con.)

Odorous House Ants Not all ants are attracted to bait in traps, so bait traps may not work. Ant traps containing baits of boric acid or other poisons attract pest to poison without need for applying poison throughout the environment. Newer baits offer ants a choice of protein food or sweet food. When using these baits and traps, do not clean near area where the baits are placed because chemical foraging trails may be disrupted. Keep baits and traps out of reach of children and pets, (such as, inside a locked cabinet). If an infestation occurs outdoors, boiling water poured on shallow nests may be effective.

Aphids Aphids Small, often pear-shaped, soft-bodied insects that may have a sticky appearance. Sticky appearance caused by honeydew, a sweet, sticky liquid that aphids and other sucking insects excrete. Sooty mold, a black fungus, may grow on honeydew. If aphids are found on about 5% of the tips of a plant, or planting, control options should be considered. Available aphid predators include ladybugs and lacewings. Some insecticides available for home use may also kill the predators, while the aphids can then return unchecked by beneficial insects. Contact an environmentally friendly pest control firm for an infestation that can not be controlled by natural means.



Bagworms Bagworms If only a few small trees or shrubs are infesting evergreens, picking the bags off by hand and disposing of them may afford satisfactory control. This approach is most effective during the fall, winter, or early spring, before the eggs have hatched. When many bagworms are infesting evergreens, use a microbial insecticide Bacillus thuringiensis, BT, usually in June, once the eggs have hatched. Preventative treatment of low-populations may be a good idea if shrubs or trees have had a serious infestation the previous year. Other insecticides may often kill the beneficial insects that feed on other pests. Contact an environmentally-friendly pest control professional if the problem remains serious.

Bedbugs Bedbugs Take beds apart and vacuum mattresses, especially around seams and tufts. Thoroughly vacuum bedstead and floor, concentrating on baseboards, cracks, and crevices. Dispose of vacuum contents immediately after use. Clean infested bedding with hot water with detergent, and place in dryer for 20 minutes on a high heat setting to kill bedbugs. Repeat cleanup periodically if bedbugs persist. Bedbugs may be introduced through use of used beds, bedding, and furniture. Before bringing used bedding or bedroom furniture items into your home, check carefully for the presence of bedbugs. Items that can not be de-infested may sometimes be successfully treated by wrapping the item in plastic and placing them outdoors in a hot, sunny location, or by placing them in a closed vehicle for at least a day. Never put plastic-wrapped items in the oven! Monitoring with an internal thermometer is a good idea, with a target temperature of 120o. Bedbugs will also die in temperatures less than 32o, but the items must remain at that temperature for several days.

Bees and Wasps

Carpenter Bees Structural pests that bore holes for nesting in face boards of porches, windows, and door frames. Like other bees, carpenter bees are pollinators and are considered beneficial. Once nesting sites are established, the bees tend to return to the site year after year, preferring rough-cut untreated wood surfaces over painted or well-finished surfaces. Screen bees from nesting sites, especially in spring and early summer. Fill holes with putty and repaint as needed. Hanging trap boards may cause bees to use these instead of the wood of the house. Boards may gradually be moved away from house. Female bees, provisioning their nests will sting, so it is best to perform control activities at night, when the bees are less active, and wear protective clothing.



Honey Bees Although very beneficial insects, honey bees may nest in the wall voids of buildings, and are a nuisance to homeowners, especially if a homeowner is allergic to their sting. Wear protective clothing, which includes a beekeeper’s veil and leather gloves, even if you are just trying to locate the nest. You should also wear light colored clothing with the sleeve and leg cuffs tucked in or closed with strong rubber bands. Gently tap the wall with a hammer and listen for the bee’s answering hum, to locate a nest. There is only one pesticide that is registered as effective against bees, Ficam. You should contact an environmentally-friendly pest control professional to kill the bees, as eradication by products available to homeowners is difficult, and several treatments may be necessary.

European Hornets Hornets Yellowjackets

Bees and Wasps, (con.)

Paper Wasps

Stinging insects that often build nests near occupied dwellings and may become nuisance or danger to those allergic to their sting. Social insects—many individuals live in same nest. Check periodically around outside of house during early summer to spot and treat small nests. By August and September, wasp populations are at their highest and individuals sometimes enter houses accidentally. Use screens in buildings and screen ventilators to attics. If one or two enter, use a flyswatter. Use caution—insects indoors may be irritated and can sting. Painting or oiling exposed wood surfaces outside reduces their attractiveness to paper wasps. Before anyone tries to control a hornet problem, they would be wise to stop, think, and plan very carefully. You may encounter up to 400 hornets or wasps, that can sting repeatedly, will fly at night, have guards at the nest entrance, may have more than one entrance to the nest, and may have nested almost anywhere. Wear protective clothing, (see Honey Bees), even if just trying to locate the nest. If possible, wait until frost kills insects, then remove and dispose of nests. Since these insects can be a dangerous infestation, especially to those that are allergic, we recommend that you contact an environmentally-friendly pest control professional for complete eradication.

Beetles Blister Beetles Hand picking is an effective method of control, but be sure to wear protective gloves because these beetles secrete a strong chemical that can blister human skin. Place the picked beetles into a plastic bag, tightly seal the bag, and dispose of the bag in a sealed garbage can. A home remedy listed by several gardeners is to use a mixture of equal parts lime and flour as a dust on the infested plants. However, this effectiveness of this method, nor its effect on beneficial bugs is unknown at this time.



Colorado Potato Beetle Hand picking is the best non-chemical control method, by reducing the numbers of overwintering beetles coming to young plants in the spring. If you must use a pesticide, this beetle is notorious for becoming pesticide resistant. Resistance develops more rapidly when the same class of pesticides is used as the only control method. It is important to avoid repeated usage of one particular insecticide by rotating the insecticides used.

Confused Flour Beetle Red Flour Beetle Saw-toothed Grain Beetle Cigarette Beetle Drugstore Beetle

Usually discovered when an infested package is opened or when small brown beetles appear in kitchen near containers of stored grain products, pet food, o r birdseed. Locate and discard infested food; clean shelves and cupboards thoroughly. Decorative items and bird seed may also be infested with these beetles. Check beneath cans and other items. Remove food and dishes; vacuum and scrub storage areas. To prevent re-infestation, enclose new purchases in sealed plastic and freeze in the freezer for at least 3 days. Then, store products in tightly sealed containers and inspect stored food regularly or keep in the freezer or refrigerator. Keep fresh supplies in tightly closed jars or cans. Keep birdseed and pet foods in tightly closed containers.

Carpet Beetle Larvae are found infesting wool, hair, feathers, leather, mounted “trophy” animals, and dead insects. They may be associated with mice if there is a mouse problem. Moths are tan to gold-colored and small, (1/4” to 3/8” long). Vacuum wool lint and bet hair from between floorboards, remove accumulations of dead insects from attic areas. Store only cleaned woolens. Dry-cleaning kills carpet beetles. Protect uninfested areas by storing in tight containers. When heavy infestation occurs, you may need to call an environmentally-friendly professional.

Elm Leaf Beetle Outdoor pests of elm that overwinter indoors, usually in attics, unused chimneys, and barns. Repair and caulk openings near elms. Remove by hand with a vacuum or by sweeping up. Dispose of beetles outdoors. Open attic windows to allow release in the spring.

Beetles, (con.)

Flea Beetle Damage from this beetle is usually restricted to borders of gardens, especially those near wooded areas. No information is available on non-chemical control options at this time.



Japanese Beetle From a pest management standpoint, it is important to recognize that both the larvae and the adult stage of these insects can cause damage to outdoor plants. Additionally, since they are capable of flying in from other locations, the control of one stage does not preclude the management of another stage. Physically removing beetles by hand may be an effective method of control for small infestations. Japanese Beetles are attracted to plants where other Japanese Beetles are feeding, so, by not allowing beetles to accumulate, plants will become less attractive to other beetles. The easiest way to collect the beetles is to shake them off of plants early in the morning when they are sluggish. Wear protective gloves, and place the beetles in a plastic bag. You may drop the beetles into a bucket of soapy water to kill them immediately or you can seal the bag and dispose of it in a closed garbage can. Highly valued plants may be protected by covering them with cheesecloth or other fine netting during the peak of beetle activity. The use of traps is not recommended as University of Kentucky’s research shows that traps generally attract more beetles than they catch, and other plants nearby may be damaged that would not have otherwise been harmed. If you use a trap, make sure to place the trap a good distance from gardens and landscape plants.

Lady Beetles, Lady Bugs A very beneficial insect in the garden, Lady Beetles can become pests when overwintering in the home. Heat in homes and buildings warm them and they become active crawling on walls and ceilings or moving to sunny windows. Vacuum or sweep up gently and deposit outside. Seal entrances as appropriate with caulk, screening, etc.

Beetles, (con.)

Asian Lady Beetle While these beetles resemble Lady Beetles or “Lady Bugs”, they are slightly different in appearance, (see Chapter 11), and can secrete a staining, yellow milk from their joints when disturbed. They usually are attracted to light, sunny areas, and will overwinter in homes, becoming a nuisance to homeowners. See Lady Bug for non-chemical controls.



Mexican Bean Beetle Commonly a pest of the home vegetable garden, these beetles may be hand picked for control. Drop them in a pail of soapy water to kill them immediately. Also, remove the bright yellow eggs laid in clusters on the undersides of leaves. Floating row covers can be used as a physical barrier to keep beetles and grubs from damaging plants. Beneficial insects, such as ladybugs, lacewing, and minute pirate bugs, are all predators of both the egg and young larval stage. You can also apply diatomaceous earth to plants and/or spot treat with insecticidal soap to keep pest populations under control. Thorough coverage of both upper and lower leaves is necessary for control. If pest levels become intolerable, spot treat with botanical insecticides as a last resort. Treatments should be repeated in 7-10 days if additional beetles are found. Remove garden trash and other debris shortly after harvest to reduce over-wintering sites.

Powderpost Beetle Powder or very fine sawdust on or beneath wood and small round or oval shot holes in wood surfaces indicate infestation. Well-finished, painted, or other finished dry wood is seldom attacked. Keep wood dry; keep moisture and humidity levels low wherever possible. Reinfestation rarely occurs in dry, seasoned wood. Repaint or refinish surfaces as necessary.

Squash Beetle See Mexican Bean Beetle for non-chemical controls.

Beetles, (con.)

Southern Pine Beetle The beetles usually attack older and stressed trees, so practices that promote the overall health of the tree are also an important IPM tool. If an infestation occurs, avoid pruning or other activities that may produce odors that attract dispersing beetles. An insecticide may be sprayed on the trunk of neighboring evergreen trees if an infestation occurs, and won’t harm humans, pets, or wildlife once dry. Once applied, stand by the tree to prevent wildlife from approaching the trunk until the insecticide is dry. Read the label carefully to make sure you have the right pesticide product. For large trees, contact an environmentally-friendly pest control professional, to prevent danger to the homeowner during application. Do not use high pressure sprayers, as they are difficult to control and can result in contamination of the applicator, pets, or wildlife. Heavily infested trees that are unlikely to survive should be removed to prevent infestation of neighboring evergreens.



Beetles, (con.) Striped and Spotted Cucumber Beetle

While Cucumber Beetles can be a nuisance, their main danger to the home garden is that the insect vectors a bacterial infection known as cucubitis. Cucubitis is found in the guts of some Cucumber Beetles, and enters the plant through any open entry point. Once the vines of melons or cucumbers begin to wilt, there is no way to prevent the plant from dying. The most effective method of control from infested plants is to immediately remove the plant from the garden and dispose of it in a plastic bag, away from the garden area.

Borers Clearwing Borers Keeping plants healthy can minimize damage from secondary pests like insect borers. Avoid other physical injury or stress to tree trunks or roots (e.g., lawn mowers, weed trimmers, digging building foundations, septic tanks, soil compaction, soil added or removed above the roots, drought, flooding, or lightening). Mulch around the trunk to increase the distance between machinery and the plant. (Do not construct a “Mulch Volcano”.) Because many borers are attracted to recent wounds, avoid pruning during warm summer months. Place trees and shrubs in properly prepared areas protected from extreme weather conditions. After trees and shrubs are infested with borers, non-chemical controls are limited. Remove and destroy (burn or chip) infested, dying or dead plants or plant parts, including fallen limbs. Severely infested trees (“brood trees”) only produce more pests that can attack neighboring trees, and should be removed. Several natural enemies attack insect borers, including predatory beetles, parasitic wasps or flies, and birds, especially woodpeckers. You may insert a flexible, small gauge wire into borer entry holes to puncture and kill the tunneling insect. However, this is difficult, and several attempts may be needed to be successful. You may use pheromone traps to monitor adult activity, and disrupt the mating and egg-laying of clearwing borers. These traps often only attract males. Or, you may use ultraviolet ‘blacklight’ traps to monitor adult beetles, which are drawn to the light and die in the bucket. These traps attract both males and females.



Borers, (con.) Flatheaded Borers It is important to regularly check young trees and shrubs that are becoming established in the landscape. Check for chewing injury by beetles on new twig growth or leaves. Also, inspect the bases of trees for signs of oviposition (egg clusters in bark crevices or wounds), or for emergence holes from which adults recently emerged. Trees that are healthy are not as attractive to borers. Trees should be properly watered, fertilized, and protected from pests, particularly during the first two or three years of growth and during drought periods that cause extreme stress. Trimming damaged trees and eliminating weak ones is are very important management tools. Infested limbs, branches and trunks should be trimmed in the fall, burned or chipped and composted during the winter to reduce emerging borer populations. Borer damage must be prevented because once borers gain access to cambium, sapwood, and heartwood; little can be done to control them. A few worms may be destroyed by probing active tunnels (with emerging sawdust) with a stiff wire.

Boxelder Bugs Boxelder Bugs Damage from these bugs occur when they winter indoors and stain fabrics or paint. Locate and seal openings through which bugs enter, and vacuum up to destroy bugs. Empty vacuum bag immediately after use.

American Cockroach Brown-banded Cockroach German Cockroach

Cockroaches

Oriental Cockroach

Cockroaches are sometimes called Waterbugs. They hide during the day in warm, moist, dark places and come out to forage at night. They prefer starchy or sugary foods, but will feed on many different kinds of foodstuffs, as well as bookbindings and dead insects. When disturbed, cockroaches run blindly for shelter. Homeowners can use sticky traps for controls, placing them in corners and in areas where roaches have been observed. Baits and insect growth inhibitors are also available in some traps. To find hiding places, enter a dark room quietly, turn on the lights, and watch where the roaches run. Shed skin and/or feces from cockroaches may cause asthma and/or allergic reactions in children and adults. Boric acid is one of the most effective cockroach control agents if it is used correctly. Boric acid is deadly to cockroaches, but is low in toxicity to people, pets, and other non-target animals.



Crickets House Crickets Crickets are considered to be beneficial or benign bugs, but may become a pest inside the house. Remove accumulations of moist debris from basement and ground-floor entrances and windows. Be sure doors fit well and are kept closed during autumn months. Keep storage areas clean and dry. Sticky roach traps may also help catch crickets. Feed on most vegetation and will also eat pet foods left outside or in basement. Often enter homes in late fall when outdoor food is scarce. Some crickets are attracted to light at night—switch to yellow bulbs.

Drain Flies Drain Flies Woolly, stout-bodied flies commonly seen around drains or in sinks; breed in grease and soap scum in drains. To clean up breeding sites scrape pipes with wire brush to remove slime in which moths may lay eggs. Use a caustic drain-cleaning product, and follow all directions carefully. The next day, use commercial bleach to rinse. Note: never combine chlorine and ammonia because deadly fumes are produced. Use a flyswatter to kill adults.

Fleas Fleas Small, brown insects that jump and bite humans as well as animals. Usually noticed when a pet is removed from the home for a period of time. Flea larvae fed on detritus, shed skin, hair from animals, and feces of adult fleas. Check pet bedding often in warm weather; populations are often concentrated where pets sleep. Limit area used as bedding. Thoroughly clean hair, bits of food, and debris from animals’ sleeping quarters. Thoroughly clean or discard animal bedding and treat animal. Flea-comb pets regularly. Check with your veterinarian for flea control options. Vacuuming daily can help control fleas. For persistent problems you may want to consult a professional. Spot treat pet resting/sleeping areas. Remove and wash pet bedding regularly. Outdoor flea control is important to making indoor control successful. Cat fleas are carried by raccoons, possums, and other dogs or cats. Keeping these animals out of your yard (e.g., tight garbage can lids) will help you keep fleas off your pet.

Fruit Flies Fruit Flies Fruit flies are often seen around kitchens. Larvae feed on spoiled fruits and vegetables. Discard garbage regularly; discard all spoiled fruit. Be patient—flies may be present for a few days after food source is removed. As a home remedy, the homeowner can build a trap by using a canning jar equipped with a paper funnel. Bits of banana sprinkled with yeast make good bait that will last about 2 weeks. Larvae in the trap can be killed by hot tap water, (at least 150o F). Commercial traps using vinegars or other baits may be purchased. (See Fruit Fly Trap, below.)



Cyclamen Gnats and Fungus Gnats

Small, dark-colored flies often seen in home around flowerpots. Larvae feed on decaying organic matter. When houseplants are source, remove and discard growing media; repot in sterile media. Clean up spills of organic matter indoors. Cyclamen Gnats are very tiny, and not readily visible to the human eye. Feed on new growth, causing curling and distortion. Particularly difficult to control. Discarding infested plants is often the best choice.

Springtails Minute insects, abundant in most soils, with forked appendage on abdomen that enables them to jump. Feed on algae, fungi, and decayed vegetable matter. Occasionally found in damp places such as kitchen, basements, bathrooms, around drains, and in soil of potted plants. Keep areas dry where possible; correct moisture problems. Repot houseplants in sterile soil. (See How to Sterilize Potting Soil, below.)

Thrips Tiny (less than 1/20 in.), often yellowish insects. Adults have long fringe of hair around wings. Cause damage by rasping leaf surface and drinking fluid that collects in injured areas. Leaves appear silvered or dried out. Brown or black scars (fecal matter and feeding scars) often seen on plant tissue. Two species of mites prey on thrips and are available commercially.

Houseplant Pests

Whiteflies Adults are small, yellowish insects with dull, white wings. Immature whiteflies are oval and flattened, yellowish scale-like insects. Heavily infested plants send up a cloud of adults when disturbed. Some whiteflies transmit viruses that are devastating to some crop plants. Eggs are very tiny, laid on undersides of leaves. Crawlers hatch from eggs, move to feeding site, then become more sedentary. Honeydew may be present. The small wasp parasite, Encarsia formosa, is available for biological control for outdoor plants. The combined use of sticky traps and Encarsia looks very promising.

Lice Book Lice Small, transparent insects about 1 mm in size that feed on sizing of paper stored at high humidity and warm temperatures. If possible, do not store books, paper, or cardboard in damp areas. Ventilate and dry infested areas using a fan to increase air circulation or possibly a dehumidifier. You may also seal the book in plastic and freeze it in the freezer for 2-3 days after dehumidifying.



Lice, (con.) Head Lice Infestations are transmitted by children in school or by other people in close contact. Do not share combs. Brushes, hats, or scarves. To kill eggs, dry-clean clothing or wash in hot water and detergent at 125o for 10 minutes. Treatment of person must be recommended by a physician, although in some states, there are over-the-counter treatments available.

Millipedes Millipedes Elongate, segmented, wormlike creatures with two pairs of legs per body segment. Usually found in moist areas such as basements, near patio doors, or in garages. Generally feed outdoors on decaying vegetable matter. Keep ground-level entrance areas free of rotting leaves and debris; trim or remove shrubs to promote air circulation and drying near foundation. Sweep up and destroy millipedes daily. In very moist years large numbers of millipedes may move near foundations to escape excessive soil moisture, and control may be difficult.

Clover Mites In late fall, Clover Mites seek shelter either under shingles or siding, but they may also enter your home from nearby vegetation. They are a nuisance pest, and, if crushed, leave a red stain that is especially noticeable on white surfaces. Caulk or weather-strip openings where mites enter; keep windows closed tightly during fall migration. Clean areas where mites accumulate with warm soapy water or use a vacuum cleaner. Disposed of vacuum bag immediately after use. Annoying pests inside the home. Establish a vegetation border 18–24 in. wide around foundation of house or building. Trim shrubs so they do not touch house. Mites seen on the outside of buildings may be dilled with a direct spray of regular liquid dish-washing soap sprayed at the rate of 2 tablespoons per gallon of water. While this treatment provides no residual control, it is reported to be an effective treatment.

Mites

Grain Mites Pale, grayish-white, microscopic arthropods with numerous long hairs on legs and back. Occasionally increase so rapidly that grain, grain products, dried fruits, and dried vegetable matter seem alive with them. Feed primarily on microscopic mold or fungi that may grow on stored food. Clean up accumulated food debris, vacuum cabinet shelves, cracks, and crevices; avoid prolonged storage of susceptible material; and do not store in warm, humid areas. Do not use an insecticide on kitchen or food storage surfaces. Do not purchase items at the store that are in damaged packages or containers that appear to be damp. Store potential problem items in sealed containers to minimize the effects of an infestation.



House Dust Mites Microscop0ic, insect-like arthropods found in houses and other buildings that people frequent. Often found on mattresses, carpets, and upholstered furniture; they thrive in warm, moist conditions. Feed on shed scales from human skin and other similar debris. Waste particles from mites may cause reactions in allergic people. Consult your allergist or medical doctor. Avoid over-humidification and keep dust to a minimum. Dust-proof or allergen-proof covers may be recommended in certain situations as may removal of bedding, carpeting, curtains, and venetian blinds. Homeowners may also consider using allergen-trapping air filters.

Parasitic Mites—Bird and Rodent Mites

These mites may enter the home through infested nests in attics or windowsills, and in eaves by creeping or blowing through ventilation. Screen birds from common nesting areas on buildings. Wear rubber gloves and do not breathe ‘fecal dust’ when cleaning out abandoned nests. Clean infested surfaces with warm, soapy water to remove mites, or use a cloth moistened with alcohol. Wash bedding in hot water with detergent and dry on a high heat setting for 20 minutes to kill mites. Contact an environmentally-friendly pest control professional to treat badly infested areas.

Mites, (con.)

Parasitic Mites—Chiggers

Minute red to orange-yellow larval mites that bite people, causing intense itching. Regular mowing and removal of weeks and brush make areas less suitable for chiggers and their wild hosts. Most people react to chigger bites by developing reddish welts within 24 hours. Intense itching accompanies the welts, which may persist for a week or longer if not treated. Bites commonly occur around the ankles, waistline, armpits, or other areas where clothing fits tightly against the skin. Besides causing intense itching, chigger bites that are scratched may result in infection and sometimes fever. Chiggers in North America are not known to transmit disease. Persons walking in chigger-infested areas can be protected by treating clothing (cuffs, socks, waistline, sleeves) or exposed skin with tick repellents. Repellents should be used only on clothing as directed by the label. People who suspect they may have been attacked by chiggers should take a soapy bath immediately and apply antiseptic to any welts. A local anesthetic will provide temporary relief from itching. A home remedy is to immediately treat the bite with fingernail polish, to seal the wound. Once sealed, this also acts as a local anesthetic.



Spider Mites—Red Spider Mites

Tiny eight-legged arthropods that are not insects but are related to them. Visible with a hand lens on undersurface of leaves. Feed by inserting mouthparts into plant and sucking liquid contents, causing yellowish stippling at feeding sites and general plant decline. Webbing often seen when held up to sunlight. Mites may appear as tiny moving dots on webbing. Several predacious mites feed on spider mites. At least three are available commercially. It may be important to know what species of spider mite you have so as to choose the proper predator. Another method is to spray the plant with ice water, (between 32o and 41o F). Just make sure that the plant can withstand the cold water! Keep a spray bottle in the refrigerator and mist the plants several times a day until the problem is gone.

Spider Mites—Spruce Spider Mite

Mites, (con.)

Spider Mites—Two-spotted Spider Mites

Spider mites are one of the more difficult groups of landscape pests to control. Infestations are easiest to control when detected early, before the mite populations have reached very high levels. Two-spotted spider mite infestations can often be traced to the purchase of infested plant material, especially bedding and houseplants. When buying new plants, it pays to inspect the lower leaf surfaces for evidence of mites. Spraying plants with a strong stream of water from a garden hose or faucet can dislodge many mites from leaf surfaces. The approach is generally more effective on smaller plants (e.g., houseplants), with non-dense foliage and low mite populations. Water sprays should be directed upward against the lower leaf surfaces, and the technique will need to be repeated on regular intervals. Low populations of spider mites may be held in check by naturally occurring predatory mites which feed on both eggs and active stages. In addition, several predatory beneficial insects feed on both Spruce Spider Mites and Two-spotted Spider Mites. Research into the effectiveness of the purchase in introduction of predatory mites and other insects is on-going.

Mosquitoes Mosquitoes Biting insects that suck blood from people and animals. Larvae are aquatic. Keep doors and windows tightly screen and closed to prevent entry into home. If problem persists even in winter, check for indoor water sources that were not drained. Home electric light traps not very effective. Check with your department of environmental conservation on legality and health safety before you apply any pesticide to a yard area or to water. (See Mosquito Control, below, for additional information.)



Angoumois Grain Moth Larvae feed in flour and grain products, dried fruits, nuts, and dried pet and fish food. When mature, they can crawl up walls to ceiling to pupate. Destroy infested food. Clean shelves and cupboards thoroughly; remove food and dishes, remembering to clean upper corners as well. If larvae have climbed walls, also carefully clean area where walls and ceiling meet. Keep fresh supplies in tightly closed jars or cans or keep birdseed and pet foods in closed containers. Be alert for flying moths. Use flyswatter as needed. Pheromone traps can be helpful in catching remaining stray male moths.

Cankerworm Also called “Inchworms” or “Loopers”, these caterpillars can cause significant defoliation of a variety of deciduous trees. Outbreaks often occur for two or three years, then disappear for a few years. An organic pest barrier may be used to prevent the adult female moths from reaching the tops of the trees to breed. Biological insecticides include the use of Bacillus thuringiensis.

Moths & Caterpillars

Clothes Moth Larvae feed on fabric containing wool or other animal fibers. Silken feeding tubes or hard protective cases are often found on fabrics. Brush infested articles and air them outdoors in a sunny location and/or dry-clean them. Dry-cleaning kills the eggs and larvae and removes perspiration odors that attract the moths. Vacuum wool lint from between floorboards. Protect uninfested goods by storing them in tight containers. Cedar-lined chests and closets are good at repelling moths, but should be lightly sanded to release oils are a year or two of use. They concentration of oil is seldom sufficient to actually kill the larvae or eggs of the moth. For a severe infestation, you may wish to consult a professional.



Eastern Tent Caterpillar Natural enemies play an important role in reducing eastern tent caterpillar numbers in most years. Caterpillars are frequently parasitized by various tiny wasps. Several predators and a few diseases also help to regulate their populations. This, in part, accounts for the fluctuating population levels from year to year. Prevention and early control is important. Removal and destruction of the egg masses from ornamentals greatly reduces the problem the next spring. In the early spring, small tents can be removed and destroyed by hand. Larger tents may be pruned out and destroyed or removed by winding the nest upon the end of a stick. Burning the tents out with a torch is not recommended since this can easily damage the tree, and is often illegal within city limits. Young caterpillars can be killed by applying an insecticide containing Bacillus thuringiensis var kurstaki. Larvae within the tents are protected beneath the webbing and are more difficult to kill with an insecticide.

Fall Webworm

Moths, (con.)

Forest Tent Caterpillar Control of these pests is essentially the same. Destroying the tents, especially when the tents are small, is an effective way of getting rid of the caterpillars. The best time to do this is around dusk or early morning when the larvae are in the tent. On smaller trees, egg masses may be pruned off and destroyed. For larger trees or trees that have several nests, a spray may be needed. Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt) are effective against these caterpillars. If a Bt application is made, it should be made when the larvae are small and easiest to control, not when they are full grown and have already done their damage. The insecticide should be applied in the evening or early morning when the insects are in the nest. A high pressure spray may be needed in order to get the insecticide into the tents, but great care must be exercised in order to prevent overspray.



Moths, (con.) Gypsy Moth There are several ways to control gypsy moths. In small populations, it may be easiest to destroy egg masses that are found on buildings, trees, etc. To destroy the egg mass, either crush the eggs or place them in a bucket of kerosene or soapy water. Simply picking the egg masses off and dropping them on the ground will not kill them. Wear protective clothing when handling the egg masses because the hairs that cover the egg masses may cause an allergic reaction. Placing burlap around tree trunks, especially oaks, will provide a hiding place for older larvae and will provide an easy way to monitor the population. When numbers are low, the larvae and pupae under the burlap may be crushed. Use of barrier bands, such as commercial double-sided sticky tape, or grease will keep the larvae from crawling up the trunks of susceptible trees. These products should not be put directly on the tree trunk but rather on a non-porous material such as duct tape. If a large population of gypsy moths is found, an insecticidal treatment of a product containing Bt may be needed. Some cultural tips might help reduce possible gypsy moth problems. These include watering trees during times of drought, fertilization, and placing mulch around the base of the tree to increase soil moisture. As is the case with other tree pests, the gypsy moth will defoliate a stressed tree first. Stressed trees often provide wounds or deep bark crevices that provide the larvae with shelter that will aid in their survival.



Sphinx Moths—Carolina Sphinx Moth and Tobacco Hornworm Sphinx Moths—Catalpa Sphinx Moth & Catalpa Worms Sphinx Moths—Clearwing Sphinx Sphinx Moths—Five-spotted Hawk Moth & Tomato Hornworm

Moths, (con.)

Sphinx Moths—Waved Sphinx

Use a long handled hoe to cultivate the top couple inches of soil around where your plants, (i.e. tomato plants), grew last year in the hope of exposing the big brown pupa, which overwinter in the soil. Moths will emerge from these massive cocoons over the next month or so, mate and lay pearl-like eggs on the leaves, which hatch into the damaging caterpillar. Hand pick them from the soil, place into a plastic bag, seal the bag and discard it. Once the caterpillar emerges, one of the best methods of control, is to use ‘companion plants’ to attract miniature parasitic wasps, (see Beneficial Bugs), that lay their eggs within or on the caterpillars. After the parasitic wasp eggs hatch, the developing wasp larvae spin cocoons on the back or within their prey for protection as they slowly consume the pest to fuel their growth to adulthood. Never kill a hornworm that has “grains of rice” stuck to its back. Allow the baby wasps that emerge from their cocoons to escape and lay eggs in more caterpillars. (Plants of Attraction are listed in Chapter 8--native plants that attract butterflies and long-tongued bees.) If not, you can buy beneficial bugs from suppliers. Typically, they arrive in the egg or cocoon stage in a little paper cup. Pin the cup to a tree or a stake near the infested plants and the wasps emerge. Avoid chemical pesticides if you want these highly beneficial creatures to survive. In addition, birds enjoy caterpillars—so having a birdbath near your plants is also beneficial to control. Sometimes these pests are difficult to identify, because they feed at night. Go out after dark with a flashlight and search through the leaves. Most people see their ‘frass’—feces—long before they see the beasts themselves. So keep an eye out for big black poopy-pellets. An additional method of control is to spray the leaves of your plants with a form of Bt, Bacillus thuringiensis kurstaki.

Clouded Plant Bug Four-lined Plant Bug

Plant Bugs or Leaf Bugs

Tarnished Plant Bug

Repeated treatments may be needed to control these pests effectively. Insecticides such as Insecticidal Soap, and Summer Horticultural Oils. Always read product labels carefully before purchase. Look for information on phytotoxicity that can occur on sensitive plants or under some environmental conditions. Check for infestations so that a treatment can be applied before the plants are disfigured by the pest. Thorough treatment of the undersides of the leaves is needed for best results.



Praying Mantid

Chinese Mantids Often when home gardeners think of natural pest control, mantids come to mind. However the Chinese Mantid are considered to be a pest because they prey on many beneficial insects. Some insecticides can drastically reduce the numbers of mantids in the garden. Selective insecticides, such as those containing Bacillus thuringiensis (for caterpillar control) and insecticidal soap (to control soft-bodied insect pests) have little impact on mantids. The best way to destroy Chinese Mantids is to identify them properly, catch them, and crush them.

Chinch Bug The big-eyed bug is the primary predator of chinch bug nymphs and adults. The chinch bug’s head is relatively small, triangular and carries two small eyes, whereas the big-eyed bug’s are solid gray or brown, more robust, blunt head, and of course, equipped with protruding big eyes. In some instances, chinch bug nymphs and adults will be covered with white, cottony-like material, which is the fungus Beauveria bassiana (Blas.). Unfortunately, this fungus rarely attacks sufficient numbers of chinch bugs to suppress populations below their economic threshold.

Oedancala Seed Bug Use normal IPM practices. Do not store firewood indoors. Bring it in immediately before use. Install screens and other devices to keep bugs out of your house. Physically destroy the bugs. Be aware that this sometimes results in the emission of an objectionable odor. Vacuum seed bugs and dispose of the vacuum bag in the outside garbage.

Seed Bugs

Stilt Bug Use normal IPM practices as noted in Oedancala Seed Bug above.

Scales Scales Scale insects are so unlike insects that many people do not recognize them as such. Insects are hidden under waxy or hard scale cover. Brown soft scale is common in greenhouses and on houseplants. Long, piercing mouthparts allow scales to suck juices from leaves, stems, twigs, branches, and trunks. Plant may decline and die. Honeydew (see Aphids) may be abundant. Crawlers are young insects that emerge from eggs and “crawl” to a feeding site; they are more sensitive to insecticidal treatment than other stages. Once crawler finds an acceptable site it settles down and begins to feed. Thereafter it molts to next stage and begins to secrete waxy or hard scale-like covering.



Silverfish Silverfish Shiny, silver grey or mottled gray insects with three long, tail-like structures on hind end. Silverfish prefer moisture; firebrats prefer warm, dry areas such as furnace room in apartments. Active at night and hide during the day. Eat foods and other materials high in protein or starch (e.g., glue or paste, bookbindings, starch in clothing, and rayon fabrics.) Remove residues of high-protein foods. Store valued books, papers, or clothing in dry areas or in sealed heavy plastic bags. Seal cracks and crevices. Special caulking is available for sealing around pipes.

Gray Field Slug Slugs Spotted Garden Slug

Keep area near foundations dry and free of refuse or piles of organic matter (such as decaying leaves) that may attract slugs and snails. As bait, use beer ¾ in. deep in steep-sided dish or tray. Various moisture-holding devices such as an upside down flower pot or empty grapefruit skin can be used to trap slugs and snails during the day. They need to be removed (wearing gloves) and disposed of daily before dark.

Sowbugs Sowbugs, Pillbugs, and “Rolly Pollies”

Not considered to be a pest outdoors, these bugs may become an indoor pest. Fat, dark gray, hard-shelled crustaceans, usually found in moist areas around the home but occasionally enter basements and garages. Roll into a ball when disturbed. Sowbugs are lighter in color, softer shelled, and do not roll into complete ball like Pillbugs do. Repair cracks in foundation; caulk around basement windows and other entryways. Keep groundlevel entrance areas free of rotting leaves and debris; trim shrubs or other planting to promote air circulation and drying. Control same as for millipedes.

Black Widow Spiders Brown Recluse

Keep spiders out with proper screening and weather stripping. Remove indoor webs and spiders with broom; discard outdoors. This may take some time, but eventually spiders will be controlled. Control insects on which spiders feed. Never pick up a spider without gloves. It is better to herd the spider into a paper cup or dustbin.

Stink Bugs Stink Bugs Use regular IPM methods as described in Oedancala Seed Bug above.

Termites Termites Social insects that live almost entirely inside wood on which they feed. If wood is not in contact with ground, termites can build mud tunnels over obstacles to reach the wood. Use termite-resistant construction methods. Refer to USDA Bulletin 64, Subterranean Termites. When infestation is discovered, professional help is usually needed. Effective insecticides are restricted for application by certified applicators only.



American Dog Tick Ticks Lone Star Tick

Usually enter home on dog or other pet. After feeding, they drop off host and hide in cracks and crevices, under rugs, and behind baseboards. Can transmit serious diseases to both humans and animals. Control treatment should begin with pet; check with your local veterinarian. Avoid tick-infested areas if possible. Stay in center of trails and paths. Wear light-colored, long-sleeved shirts and long pants with bottoms tucked into socks or boots. It is easier to spot ticks on light-colored clothing. Check yourself, pets, and children frequently while outside. Check again at home (at least once in a 24-hour period). Ticks must feed for many hours before diseases are transmitted to people or pets. Repellents are available commercially.

Black Horse Flies Blow Flies Blue Bottle Flies

Eliminate breeding areas: manure, garbage, piles of grass clippings, and other rich and decaying organic matter. Spread to dry. Sticky flypaper is useful in entryways if flies congregate there.

Cluster Flies These are large, awkward, noisy flies that blunder about lights and windows. Vacuuming up flies is helpful. When done vacuuming, place bag into a plastic bag and store it in the freezer for a couple of day to completely kill the flies. Flyswatters are helpful if there are only a few present. Close entry routes when possible. Dispose of dead flies to prevent Carpet Beetles or other insects.

Deer Flies Biting flies that are active during the daytime. When numerous, their irritation and annoyance can be unbearable. They breed in fast-moving streams and rivers. If possible, avoid being outdoors during their season. Wear protective clothing that the insects cannot bite through.

Face Flies

True Flies

Green Bottle Flies Eliminate breeding areas: manure, garbage, piles of grass clippings, and other rich and decaying organic matter. Spread to dry. Sticky flypaper is useful in entryways if flies congregate there.


True Flies, (con.)

House Flies Gray-bodied fly with checkered abdomen, black stripes on thorax, and slightly hairy appearance. Summertime pests that breed in manure, garbage, and fermenting crop wastes. Dangerous principally because may carry and spread disease germs that may be in material where they breed, feed, or walk. Use screens, keep food covered, and dispose of garbage frequently. Spread piles of grass clippings or other rich decaying organic matter to dry. Clean up pet dung in yard because it can become a breeding site. Avoid using doors for entering or exiting house downwind of food odors where flies have accumulated. A flyswatter is very useful for dealing with flies indoors. Sticky flypaper is useful in some situations. Home electric light traps are not very effective.

Larval stage of many insects

First, it must be noted, that the name White Grub is representative of the larval stage of many different insect types, including Japanese Beetles,

White Grubs

Weevils Rice Weevil See Confused Flour Beetle, Red Flour Beetle, above.

Using Boric Acid Like a Pro The key to success to using boric acid as an indoor insecticide is proper application. For best results, the powder should be applied in a very thin layer barely visible to the naked eye. Piles or heavy accumulations will be avoided by foraging cockroaches and other pests—much as we would avoid walking through a snow drift.

Boric acid is a white, inorganic powder chemically derived from boron and water. Boron is mined from vast mineral deposits in the ground and is used in countless consumer products, including laundry additives, toothpaste and mouthwash. Boric acid insecticide formulations can be purchased at hardware and grocery stores. The powder comes ready-to-use, i.e., no mixing or dilution is required. Formulations sold in plastic, squeeze-type bottles with narrow applicator tips are the easiest to use. (These containers are similar in appearance to the squeezable mustard and ketchup bottles found in restaurants).

Boric acid is a typical low-toxicity

chemical used by homeowners to kill cockroaches and other insects.

Cockroaches and other pests succumb to boric acid when they crawl over treated areas. The tiny particles of powder adhere to their body, and the material is ingested as the insects preen the powder from its legs and antennae. Some boric acid is also absorbed through the greasy outer covering of the insect's body. All species of cockroaches and many other pests are susceptible to boric acid provided the powder is applied into areas where the roaches are living.

To apply a fine layer, shake the container and puff a small quantity of powder into the target area. Manufacturers of boric acid often fill their containers with too much powder. By using a container that is only 2/3 full of powder, an airspace is created at the top of the container which allows the dust to be puffed more easily. You may place a few pennies or pebbles inside the container to prevent the powder from caking. The trick is to give the container a shake, then puff a very light dusting of the powder on the area you wish to treat. Avoid applying a heavy layer and NEVER apply the material with a spoon.


Where the powder is applied is just as important as how it's applied. Cockroaches prefer to live in cracks, crevices and secluded areas close to food, moisture and warmth. Kitchens and bathrooms are the most common areas to find cockroaches, although any area of a home may become infested if the infestation is severe, or if other species are involved. Key areas for treatment include under/behind the refrigerator, stove and dishwasher, into the opening where plumbing pipes enter walls (such as under sinks and behind the commode, shower and washing machine), and into cracks along edges and corners inside cabinets and pantries. Oftentimes, there is a void (hollow space) under kitchen and bathroom cabinets which become a hiding place for cockroaches and other pests. This area can be accessed and treated by injecting powder through any existing gap at the top of the kickplate, or if none is present, by drilling a few small holes.

NEVER apply boric acid onto countertops or other exposed surfaces, especially those used to prepare food. Any visible residues should be wiped off with a damp cloth. Boric acid can be used alone or in combination with other non-chemical control products. An effective way to augment the activity of boric acid is to place containerized baits, as discussed in Chapter 9. Avoid dusting over, or in the immediate vicinity of your bait stations, as this may reduce the attractiveness of the bait. Used correctly, this dual approach will produce results comparable to a professional exterminator.

Fruit Fly and Gnat Traps

Fruit Fly or Gnat Traps are easy to construct, and an effective, non-chemical control for these small flying insects. Use a mason jar a piece of paper rolled into a cone, as shown to the right. Bait the trap with a small piece of ripe banana. Once the flies begin to gather, take the jar outdoors and allow the flies to escape, where they will become food for birds or other predators. Then, once indoors, pour hot, (150o) water into the jar, and allow it to set for at least 5 minutes, to kill any eggs or larvae. Drain the jar into the sink, replace the cone, and flush the drain with hot water. Repeat as needed.

Courtesy University of Kentucky Department of Entomology

How to Sterilize Potting Soil Sterilized soil or soilless mixes are recommended for potted and container plants in and around homes and for germination of seedlings. Sterilized soil is free of weed seeds, plant-parasitic nematodes, insects, mites, and disease-causing organisms. Most important is the absence of organisms that can cause damping-off of seedlings and root rot and vascular wilt of potted plants. All of these diseases can ultimately kill infected plants. Sterilized soil can be purchased from greenhouses, nurseries, and garden stores. Soilless or “Peat-lite” mixes, formulated with peat moss and vermiculite or perlite, are generally considered sterile. Although it is not highly recommended, garden soil can also be used. Mix the soil with equal parts of sand, vermiculite, or perlite. Then sterilize this mixture by placing it in a shallow pan and baking it in a preheated oven for one hour at 200º F. The soil must remain at 160º F for at least 30 minutes. The sterilizing operation may give off a strong odor, which may linger in the oven.

Mosquito Control – Practical Advice for Homeowners We would like to attribute this section to the University of Kentucky, Cooperative Extension Service, ENTFACT-005. For more information, contact your local Cooperative Extension agent.

Unfortunately, there is no easy solution for managing mosquitoes. Countless products on the market claim to be effective and easy to use but few have appreciable value in lessening the annoyance and incidence of bites. Unlike most insects found around homes, mosquitoes are pervasive outdoor pests and there are


limits to what can be done to minimize their abundance. However, there are measures that can afford some relief. To lessen the effects of mosquitoes, the homeowner should first understand the life cycle of the insect. The picture below shows the various stages of the insect’s growth from adult to eggs to aquatic larvae, to adult.

Breeding Areas -- The most effective way to reduce the number of mosquitoes around homes and neighborhoods is to find and eliminate their breeding sites - standing water. A neglected bird bath, swimming pool, or clogged rain gutter can produce hundreds of new mosquitoes in a just a few days. Uprooted trees leave soil depressions that collect seepage and rainwater. Large areas of standing water, such as in poorly drained lawns, or from sluggishly moving streams or ditches may require community efforts. Adults of some mosquito species remain near their breeding site. Others can travel long distances, even up to several miles. Because of this, problem mosquitoes may come from breeding sites some distance away. And, even the control of breeding sites does not guarantee the eradication of mosquitoes from your yard.

There are effective steps that individuals can take to minimize mosquito breeding on their property: 1. Dispose of old tires, buckets, aluminum cans, plastic sheeting or other refuse that can hold

water. Empty accumulated water from trash cans, boats, wheel barrows, pet dishes, and flower pot bottoms. If possible, turn these items over when they are not in use.

2. Clean debris from rain gutters and unclog obstructed downspouts. Clogged rain gutters are one of the most overlooked breeding sites for mosquitoes around homes. Remove any standing water on flat roofs or around structures. Repair leaking faucets and air conditioners that produce puddles for several days.


3. Change water in bird baths and wading pools at least once a week and keep swimming pools cleaned and chlorinated. Ornamental pools can be aerated or stocked with mosquito-eating fish. Aeration / water movement helps because mosquitoes prefer quiet, non-flowing water for egg-laying and development.

4. Fill or drain ditches and swampy areas, and other soil depressions and remove, drain, or fill tree holes and stumps with mortar or sealant to prevent accumulation of water. Eliminate standing water and seepage around animal watering troughs, cisterns, and septic tanks. Be sure that cistern screens are intact and that access covers fit tightly.

5. Irrigate lawns and gardens carefully to prevent water from standing for several days. Take measures to insure that your lawn has good drainage so as to eliminate standing water during wet seasons.

Larvae Control -- Use of a mosquito larvicide may be beneficial when it is impractical to eliminate a breeding site. Larvicides are insecticides which are used to control immature mosquitoes before they have a chance to develop into biting adults.

Most larvicides sold to homeowners contain either the active ingredient methoprene or a toxin produced by the soil bacterium Bacillus thuringiensis israelensis, (BTI). Methoprene prevents adult emergence by disrupting the development of mosquito larvae. BTI toxin attacks the digestive tract. It is lethal only to mosquito wrigglers and the larvae of some aquatic gnats and black flies. Neither methoprene nor BTI toxin is harmful to fish, waterfowl, pets, or humans when used according to label directions.

Mosquito larvae are usually noticeable by the naked eye. Some species twist about,

making them easier to spot.

Many products and formulations containing methoprene and BTI are used by mosquito abatement agencies and other professionals. Homeowners can purchase methoprene as granules in shaker bottles. Less than a dozen granules are needed to prevent mosquitoes from developing in a flower pot bottom or bird bath. Less than a teaspoon of granules is needed to treat 100 feet of rain guttering. Mosquito development will be inhibited for up to a month in ornamental ponds and similar bodies of water; longer protection is provided in sites that periodically dry out.

Typically, one donut-shaped BTI dunk brick is recommended per 100 square feet of water surface. The dunk brick breaks down slowly when wet and releases the insecticide over about a 30 day period. Other granular formulations begin to release the BTI toxin more quickly than the dunk bricks, resulting in faster action. While results come more quickly, the residual life of the treatment is generally not as long as the dunk formulation. Granular formulations may be more desirable when treating smaller areas, such as flower pots or tree holes.

With a little careful observation it is fairly easy to see mosquito larvae in clear, shallow water over light colored bottoms. They are harder to see in dark, stagnant water where there is a lot of debris or vegetation. Avoid casting a shadow over the water when inspecting for mosquitoes because the larvae and pupae will dive in response to light changes. They can be captured by quickly plunging a long-handled dipper into the water. However, while it may help, hand netting is seldom effective.


Mosquitoes prefer to rest in protected sites during the day. Yards with lots of trees, shrubs, and dense vegetation, or properties adjoining such areas, can have nightmarish problems. Consequently, removal of tall weeds and overgrowth is part of an integrated mosquito management program.

To further reduce intolerable levels of biting mosquitoes, insecticides can be applied to the lower limbs of shade trees, shrubs, and other shaded areas, such as under decks and along foundations. Pyrethroid insecticides, applied by a hose end sprayer, are effective but will need to be reapplied periodically. Always read and follow label directions before using any pesticide. Some homeowners may wish to enlist the services of a professional for this service.

Trimming weeds, shrubs, and trees not only is an important tool to manage mosquito pests, it is

also an important IPM tool.

While some mosquitoes are daytime biters, most are more active in the evening. Staying indoors at dusk and during evening hours will lessen the chance of being bitten. Long-sleeved shirts and pants will provide protection when outdoors but bites can still occur through thin clothing and to exposed skin. In fact, some mosquitoes line up along the seams of pants and other garments, where the fabric is thinnest, to bite.

Topically applied mosquito repellents will help to prevent bites when spending time outdoors. The most effective mosquito repellents contain the active ingredient diethyl toluamide, (DEET), but may be considered to be dangerous to small children, pets, or other animals. The higher the percentage of DEET in the product, the longer the protection lasts. Low percentage formulations are available for use with young children.

Non-DEET containing repellents, with citronella oil, may provide some relief, but generally to a lesser degree and for shorter duration than DEET products. It is often desirable to apply insect repellent on outer clothing as well as the skin. Always read and follow directions on the container. Mosquito repellent should not be applied to the hands of young children, and treated skin should be washed with soap and water after returning indoors.

Some non-DEET mosquito repellents are specially formulated for children,

but adults may also use them.

Topically applied mosquito repellents will help to prevent bites when spending time outdoors. The most effective mosquito repellents contain the active ingredient diethyl toluamide, (DEET), but may be considered to be dangerous to small children, pets, or other animals. The higher the percentage of DEET in the product, the longer the protection lasts. Low percentage formulations are available for use with young children.

Non-DEET containing repellents, with citronella oil, may provide some relief, but generally to a lesser degree and for shorter duration than DEET products. It is often desirable to apply insect repellent on outer clothing as well as the skin. Always read and follow directions on the container. Mosquito repellent should not be applied to the hands of young children, and treated skin should be washed with soap and water after returning indoors.


Other Methods of Control -- Many consumer products claim to attract, repel, or kill mosquitoes. Most of these devices do not appreciably reduce mosquito abundance or incidence of bites, or else are unproven. Electrocuting devices or "Bug zappers", using ultraviolet light as an attractant, are generally ineffective in reducing outdoor populations of mosquitoes or their biting activity. Studies indicate that mosquitoes make up only a tiny percentage of the insects captures in such traps. The majority are moths, beetles, and other harmless night flying insects. Incidentally, sitting next to a “bug zapper” may actually attract more mosquitoes to the person desiring control.

Other types of mosquito traps use carbon dioxide, warmth, light, sonic vibrations, and various chemicals as attractants and claim to capture tremendous numbers of mosquitoes. Such devices are often expensive. Performance claims to the contrary, such devices seldom have been shown to actually reduce populations of biting mosquitoes on a property, or the incidence of bites. In some situations they could even attract more mosquitoes into the area one is hoping to protect. “Bug Zappers” typically kill beneficial or

harmless bugs than mosquitoes.

Advertisements for portable electronic devices that use high-frequency ultrasonic sound routinely appear in magazines and claim to keep mosquitoes and other pests at bay. Some supposedly repel mosquitoes by mimicking the wing beat frequency of a hungry dragonfly. Scientific studies have repeatedly shown these devices to be of negligible benefit in deterring mosquitoes and reducing bites. Companies that market such devices with unsubstantiated claims have been told to cease and desist by consumer protection agencies but others continue to appear hoping that consumers will buy them. Save your money, these devices seldom, if ever, provide any measure of relief.

Citronella oil does have mosquito repelling properties and the scented candles can provide a degree of protection. For maximum effect, use multiple candles placed close (within a few feet) of where people are sitting. A single candle at the center or edge of a picnic blanket probably won't provide much benefit other than atmosphere. Mosquito repellent plants like garlic and other oft-advertized botanicals generally are ineffective.

Bats and certain types of birds (purple martins) often are cited as effective natural agents for managing mosquitoes. Conservation groups and articles in nature magazines often suggest building bat and bird houses to promote nesting and to protect against mosquitoes. However, mosquitoes make up only a portion of their natural diet. Much like "bug zappers", they capture all kinds of flying insects. Efforts to colonize and conserve these animals should not be done solely with the intent of significantly diminishing biting mosquito populations. Rather, appreciate the additional benefit of an animal’s mosquito-killing ability, while developing an ecologically safe environment for the wildlife. When it comes to managing mosquitoes, a good rule of thumb is "if the device or method sounds too good to be true, then probably it is.

Purple Martins eat mosquitoes as well as many

other ‘bugs’. While a single Purple Martin colony may not provide noticeable relief from

mosquitoes, at least they are helpful in reducing their numbers.


Moss Control A simple plant growth that thrives in damp, shaded locations. Usually found on north slopes of roofs and roots shaded by overhanging trees. The most common way to remove mosses from plants is by hand. This is labor intensive and will only be effective on shrubs, but is probably the best way to rid your shrubs of unwanted mosses. It is wise to do this during the winter when the plant is dormant so you do not damage active tree growth. You may do more damage to buds than the mosses will do if you are not careful., so great care must be exercised.

You may be able to remove mosses from trees and shrubs by using a power washer to scour them away. This should be done in the winter when a plant is dormant so you do not damage it with the force of the water. Damage to buds even in the winter is an important consideration. This method is not suitable for delicate plants and may not prove too effective except on tree trunks and larger branches that do not have developing shoots.

On the lawn, the best way to effectively and permanently control moss is to correct the conditions that are favoring moss growth. Moss grows better than most types of grass in areas with heavy shade, poor drainage, and compact soils. Mosses are often found in cool, shaded areas of the lawn where they are more competitive than grasses. The following physical control methods can help prevent and control moss growth in shady areas.

Physical removal of moss is the most effective control.

• Trim shrub and tree limbs that create shady areas on the lawn. • Complete removal of shrubs or trees may be needed in areas that receive less than 3-4 hours of

direct sunlight or 6-8 hours of filtered sunlight. This is the amount of sunlight that is required for any type of grass to grow.

• Mow at the top of the recommended mowing height for each grass species. In general, no more than 1/3 of the top growth should be removed when mowing. This will encourage deep rooting and maximum leaf surface area, which will allow the grass to absorb more sunlight

• A shade-tolerant grass, such as St. Augustine grass or fescue, can be planted in partially shaded areas. Look for low-maintenance species to plant in shady areas. Contact your local Cooperative Extension Agent for more information.

• Instead of grass, shade tolerant native ground covers can be planted in shady areas in the lawn. See Chapter 8 for lists of low-growing native species that love shade.

Excessively wet soils can promote moss growth because mosses grow better than grass in wet, poorly drained soils. Some physical control methods that target excessive moisture include:

• Watering the lawn only when it is needed. Regularly scheduled watering and automatic watering systems will often over-water the lawn, especially in shaded areas.

• Adding sand or soil to localized low-lying areas. This will increase the elevation and the drainage ability of the soil, and will allow more sunlight and wind to dry the area out.

• Contouring or trenching wet area, to allow excess water to be drained. • Installing french drains or subsurface drainage tiles in large areas of water build-up.


• Removing thatch (dead organic matter) from the lawn, which will increase grass vigor and decrease water retention on the surface. Thatch can be removed by hand raking or with a vertical mower or de-thatcher.

Moss growth in the lawn and garden can also be encouraged by heavy or compacted soils. Compacted soils have a decreased amount of air, water and nutrient movement, thus causing stress to the grass and allowing mosses to move in. Furthermore, the decrease in water movement can prevent water drainage in the compacted soils, thus favoring moss growth. Controlling mosses by increasing the aeration of the soil can be done in several ways.

• Core aeration is a process that removes cores of soil from the lawn. It can be done with a manual sod-coring tool or a power-driven core aerator and should be done every year.

• Incorporating several inches of organic matter into the compacted soil will improve the texture and draining in the soil.

There are also some negative side effects to some physical control methods. Removing trees to reduce shading and using a power-driven core aerator can be dangerous. Other physical control methods, such as installing subsurface water drains can be expensive and time consuming. Only the homeowner can decide which method of physical control will work best for the situation.

Wildlife Pest Control Methods Sometimes, despite our best intentions in creating wildlife habitat, wildlife can become a nuisance, and create problems. The key is to manage the wildlife so that it remains an enjoyable part of your lawn/garden experience, not a nuisance. Even homeowners that wish to attract wildlife, don’t always want the wildlife entering their home and becoming a pest, or creating a potential health problem outdoors. However, there are many physical, cultural, and non-chemical controls that may be used by the concerned homeowner that does not harm the wildlife, or create additional problems by harming the ecology of the area.

When you have some wild animals around, (even your own pet), you've got more work to do to keep your lawn looking great. Pets are our own responsibility, but other animals that cause damage to our lawns and landscapes are usually related to food sources or shelter. Removing animal pests involve either structural elements (fencing) that keep the destructive animals out of your landscape, or removing their food source (insect removal or changing the plants we have in our landscape. It may be a good idea to remember:

• Wild animals do best on their own, with minimal interaction with humans. Don't feed or set out food for wild, or domestic animals. You can attract a normal population of wild animals by planting native ornamental plants in your lawn and garden, but actually ‘feeding’ wild animals is not a good idea. What if you move, and the animal is used to having a food source? The population of the wildlife will increase over the normal ecological balance, and the animals will become dependent upon the food you supply. Remember that in areas of the country with large cats, attracting deer will also attract their hunters.

• Bears and raccoons are attracted to compost piles and fruit trees and bushes. Electric fences can be effective deterrents, as can other types of sturdy fencing.

Possums can sometimes set up housekeeping in inconvenient, (for the

homeowner), places.


• Pick up fallen fruit to reduce the attraction. • Feed your pets inside your home. Don't feed pets outside on a deck, or near your house. Pet food

attracts wild animals like raccoons and bears. It's important they don't learn to see your home as a source for food.

• Secure your garbage cans. Get a can with a snap-on lid. If possible, store your can inside, in a garage, shed, or wooden garbage-can enclosure.

• Screen your roof and crawlspace vents and cap your chimney, to prevent animals from seeking shelter in or under your house.

Bats Despite their ecological value, bats are relentlessly and unjustifiably persecuted. Bats are often killed because they live near people who needlessly fear them. These actions emphasize the need to educate the public on the reasons for bat conservation and why it is important to use safe, nondestructive methods to alleviate conflicts between people and bats. Except where control is necessary, bats should be appreciated from a distance — and not disturbed. Before you exercise even non-chemical controls for bats, you should you ask yourself, “Is this a real potential health problem, or am I just afraid of bats?”

Bats, the only mammals that truly fly, belong to the order Chiroptera, and are not flying rodents. Their ability to fly, their secretiveness, and their nocturnal habits have contributed to bat folklore, superstition, and fear. Among the many species of bats found in KY, only a few cause problems for humans, (note that vampire bats are not found in the United States and Canada). Bats congregating in groups are called colonial bats; those that live a lone existence are known as solitary bats.

Table 3 – Bats of Kentucky Name Description Picture

Big Brown Bat (Eptesicus fuscus). Abundant statewide resident. The bat most commonly found in buildings. A large bat about twice the size of the little brown bat. In Kentucky, this species is by far the most commonly encountered by people. Lives in colonies, hibernates.

Eastern Pipistrelle Bat

(Pipistrellus subflavus). Tiny bat with tri-colored fur. Abundant statewide resident. Prefers caves in winter and trees and buildings in the summer. Hibernates, singly scattered through caves and mines.



Evening Bat (Nycticeius humeralis). Found in western and southern Kentucky. State threatened species. Found in trees and buildings; avoids caves. Lives in colonies, migrates.

Gray Bat (Myotis grisescens). Similar to other

Myotis bats but larger. It can be identified by the wing membrane attached to the ankle instead of base of toes. Found in inner Bluegrass and cave region of south-central Kentucky. Sometimes seen in other areas of the state. Federal endangered species. Lives in colonies, hibernates.

Hoary Bat (Lasiurus cinereus). Rare, but found

throughout Kentucky. Larger than Big Brown Bat. Color is grayish yellow-brown, overcast with grayish white. Spends summer days in tree foliage. Solitary, migrates.

Indiana Bat (Myotis sodalis). Difficult to

distinguish from other bats. Federal endangered species. Found in winter throughout Kentucky cave regions. Lives in forested areas during summer, roosting in snags and under tree bark. Lives in colonies, hibernates.



Little Brown Bat (Myotis lucifugus). A small brown bat weighing about 10 grams. Common throughout Kentucky, it can sometimes be found in attics of buildings or roosting on boat docks. One of bats most commonly encountered by humans. Lives in colonies, hibernates.

The Little Brown Bat is a small bat, (shown here in a man’s hand for scale). Never pick up or bother bats!

Northern Long-eared Bat

(Myotis septentrionalis). Similar to little brown bat except for its longer ears and a long pointed inner ear membrane. Rare. A state special concern species. Found in caves, rockhouses or shelters, old mines, and buildings. Lives singly or in small colonies, hibernates.

Rafineque’s Big-eared Bat

(Plecotus rafinesquii). Uncommon but scattered throughout the state. Occurs in caves, mines, wells, and abandoned buildings. Very similar in appearance to Virginia big-eared bat. State threatened species and candidate for federal endangered species list. Lives in colonies, hibernates.

Red Bat (Lasiurus borealis). Abundant

statewide resident. Fur is rusty red, washed with white. Cannot be confused with any other species. Seeks daytime refuge in trees. Solitary, migrates. In June, females laden with young (up to four) often fall onto lawns.



Silver-haired Bat

(Lasionycteris noctivagans). Medium-sized black bat with white-tipped fur. Usually found during spring migration. Seasonally solitary, migrates. Some hibernate in caves, mines, and rock crevices in Kentucky.

Small-footed Bat

(Myotis leibii). Very tiny bat identified by small size, small forearm and foot, and a long bone spur on one of the ankle bones. Found in eastern and central cave regions of Kentucky. May also be found in other areas of the state. State endangered species and candidate for federal endangered species list. Lives in colonies, hibernates.

Southeastern Bat

(Myotis austroriparius). May be confused with little brown bat because of numerous similarities. State endangered species and candidate for federal endangered species. Found in buildings, caves, culverts, or tree cavities. Lives in colonies, hibernates.

Virginia Big-eared Bat

(Plecotus townsendii virginianus). Known only from eastern Kentucky cave region. Federal endangered species. Largest known winter colony occurs in one eastern Kentucky cave. Lives in colonies, hibernates. Unlikely to be found in Jefferson County, but may be seen in the Carter Cave area.


The colonial species most often encountered in and around human buildings in Kentucky are the Little Brown Bat, (Myotis lucifugus), the Big Brown Bat (Eptesicus fuscus), and the Evening Bat (Nycticeius humeralis). Solitary bats typically roost in tree foliage or under bark, but occasionally are found associated with buildings, some only as transients during migration.

Bats in North America are virtually all insectivorous, feeding on a variety of flying insects. Many of the insects are harmful to humans. While there must be some limitations based on such factors as bats’ body size, flight capabilities, and jaw opening, insectivorous bats apparently consume a wide range of prey. The Little Brown Bat’s diet includes mayflies, midges, mosquitoes, caddis flies, moths, and beetles. It can consume insects equal to one-third of its body weight in 1/2 hour of foraging. The Big Brown Bat may fill its stomach in about 1 hour (roughly 0.1 ounce per hour) with prey including beetles, moths, flying ants, true bugs, mayflies, caddis flies, and other insects. The nightly consumption of insects by a colony of bats can be extremely large.

Bats may become a nuisance when they roost in buildings, fly about swimming pools, or swoop down near white lights. Unfortunately, the mere presence of a bat outdoors is sometimes beyond the tolerance of some uninformed people. Information is a good remedy for such situations.

Bats commonly enter buildings through openings associated with the roof edge and valleys, eaves, apex of the gable, chimney, attic or roof vent, dormers, and siding. Other openings may be found under loose-fitting doors, around windows, gaps around various conduits (wiring, plumbing, air conditioning) that pass through walls, and through utility vents. Bats are able to squeeze through narrow slits and cracks. For purposes of bat management, one should pay attention to any gap of approximately 1/4 x 1 1/2 inches or a hole 5/8 x 7/8 inch. Such openings must be considered potential entries for at least the smaller species, such as the Little Brown Bat. The smaller species require an opening no wider than 3/8 inch, that is, a hole the diameter of a US dime. Openings of these dimensions are not uncommon in older wood frame structures where boards have shrunk, warped, or otherwise become loosened.

The discovery of one or two bats in a house is a frequent problem. In some places in KY, Big Brown Bats probably account for most sudden appearances. Common in urban areas, they often enter homes through open windows or unscreened fireplaces. If unused chimneys are selected for summer roosts, bats may fall or crawl through the open damper into the house. Sometimes bats may appear in a room, and then disappear by crawling under a door to another room, hallway, or closet. They may also disappear behind curtains, wall hangings, bookcases, under beds, into waste baskets, and so forth. Locating and removing individual bats from living quarters can be laborious but is important. If you are unable to locate the bat, wait until dusk when the bat may appear once again as it attempts to find an exit. Since Big Brown Bats may hibernate in the cooler recesses of heated buildings, they may suddenly appear (flying indoors or outdoors) in midwinter during a warm spell or a cold snap as they move about to adjust to the temperature shift.


Bats use roosting niches that are indoors (human dwellings, outbuildings, livestock quarters, warehouses), semi-enclosed (loading docks, entrance foyers), partially sheltered (porches, carports, pavilions, highway underpasses, bridges), and open structural areas (window shutters, signs). Once there, active bats in and on buildings can have several economic and aesthetic effects, often intertwined with public health. Unusual roosting areas include wells, sewers, and graveyard crypts. Before considering control measures, verify that bats are actually the cause of the problem.

Fecal pellets, (guano), indicate the presence of bats and are found on attic floors, in wall recesses, and outside the house at its base. Fecal pellets along and inside walls may indicate the presence of mice, rats, or even roaches. Bat droppings are easily distinguished from those of small rodents. Bat droppings tend to be segmented, elongated, and friable. When crushed, they become powdery and reveal shiny bits of undigested insect remains. In contrast, mice and rat droppings tend to taper, are un-segmented, are harder and more fibrous, and do not become powdery when crushed (unless extremely aged). The droppings of some birds and lizards may occasionally be found along with those of bats. However, bat droppings never contain the white chalky material characteristic of the feces of these other animals.

Bat guano may provide a growth medium for microorganisms, some of which are pathogenic to humans. Guano accumulations may fill spaces between walls, floors, and ceilings. It may create a safety hazard on floors, steps, and ladders, and may even collapse ceilings. Accumulations also result in the staining of ceilings, soffits, and siding, producing unsightly and unsanitary conditions.

Bats also urinate and defecate in flight, causing multiple spotting and staining on sides of buildings, windows, patio furniture, automobiles, and other objects at and near entry/exit holes or beneath roosts. Bat excrement may also contaminate stored food, commercial products, and work surfaces.

Bat guano may be an indication of a problem inside the home.

Bat urine readily crystallizes at room temperature. In warm conditions under roofs exposed to sun and on chimney walls, the urine evaporates so quickly that it crystallizes in great accumulations. Boards and beams saturated with urine acquire a whitish powder-like coating. With large numbers of bats, thick and hard stalactites and stalagmites of crystallized bat urine are occasionally formed.

The close proximity of bat roosts to human living quarters can result in excreta, animal dander, fragments of arthropods, and various microorganisms entering air ducts as well as falling onto the unfortunate residents below. Such contaminants inside the home can result in airborne particles of public health significance.

First, Confirm the Infestation - To confirm that bats are actually roosting in or on a building, look for bats flying in and out of a site and/ or for signs of infestation. A bat watch can be conducted by two people (more may be necessary to observe large or complex sites) posted at opposite corners of a structure. An evening watch begins about 30 minutes before dark and a morning watch begins about 1 hour before dawn. Observations should continue for approximately 1 hour.


It may be necessary to watch for more than one night to compensate for weather conditions, bats’ sensitivity to observers, noisy or inexperienced observers, and improper use of light. Observations can be enhanced with a standard flashlight, but be certain to keep the bright part of the beam as far as possible away from the exit hole being observed. Bright light will increase bats’ reluctance to exit and may result in an incomplete exit of the colony. A valuable observation aid is a powerful, rechargeable flashlight equipped with a plastic, red pop-off filter. Bats are sensitive to light intensity and can visually discriminate shapes and patterns in extremely low light situations. They can only see in black and white; hence, the low-contrast illumination and soft shadows produced by red light has little effect on bats.

Such observations can indicate exit/ entry points and the number of bats. With practice, distinguishing some bat species may also be possible. For example, compared to the Big Brown Bat, the Little Brown Bat is noticeably smaller in size, and its flight has more rapid wing beats, and more rapid turning and darting.

Locating the Roost(s) - It is not always possible or convenient to conduct a bat watch. Thus, a detailed inspection inside the building for bats or bat sign may be necessary to find specific roosts. Daytime is best, especially during the warmer part of the day. Bats roost in the most varied kinds of buildings and in every part from cellar to attic. Some types of buildings appear preferable (older houses, churches, barns, proximity to water) as do certain roost locations, especially areas with little disturbance, low illumination, little air circulation, and high temperatures.

Bat roosts outside are usually helpful in controlling lawn pests.

Often it is easy to locate bats, especially in warm weather in attics or lofts, where they may hang in clusters or side-by-side from the sloping roof lath, beams, and so forth. However, bats have the ability to find crevices and cavities, and if disturbed may rapidly disappear into the angles between converging beams, behind such beams or wallboards, into mortise holes on the underside of beams, and into the multilayered wall and roof fabrications. If bats cannot be openly observed, usually there are various interior and exterior signs of their presence. Often there are multiple roost sites within or on a single building.

Assess the Problem - Once it has been confirmed that bats are present, one must determine if there is damage, if there is a health risk, and if some intervention is warranted. There are circumstances in which “no action” is the correct action because of the beneficial role of bats. In cases where there is risk of contact, damage from excreta accumulations, stains, and so on, intervention may be necessary.

Timing - With the exception of disease treatment and removal of the occasional bat intruder, timing becomes an important planning consideration. Management procedures must not complicate an already existing problem and should emphasize bat conservation. Therefore, all interventions should be initiated before the young are born or after they are weaned and able to fly. Thus, the annual opportunity extends from about mid-August to mid-May. Treatments might otherwise result in the unnecessary death of animals (especially young unable to fly) trapped inside, offensive odors, and attraction of arthropod scavengers.

Removal of the Occasional Intruder - A bat that has blundered into the living quarters of a house will usually find its way out by detecting air movement. When no bite or contact with people or pets has occurred, the simplest solution for “removing” the bat is to try to confine it to one room, then open windows and doors leading outdoors and allow it to escape. If the bat is present at night, the lights should be dimmed to allow the animal to find open doors and windows; some light is necessary if an observer is to insure that the bat finds its way out. If bright lights are kept on, the bat may become


confused and may seek refuge behind shelving, curtains, hanging pictures, or under furniture. It may help to turn on an outside light, to “attract” the bat to the outdoors.

Healthy bats normally will not attack people even when chased. Chasing a flying bat with a folded newspaper, tennis racket, or stick will cause the bat to take evasive action, and a bat’s flight reversal to avoid a wall is often misinterpreted as an attack. These flailings, often futile, will cause a bat to seek safety wherever possible, making escape more difficult for the bat and more frustrating for the human. So, do not chase or attack the bat. If the bat has difficulty escaping, it can be captured in a hand net. Large fishing nets may be used for this purpose.

Also, you can wait for it to come to rest, quickly cover it with a coffee can or similar container, and slide a piece of cardboard or magazine under the can to trap the bat inside. Take the captured bat outdoors and release it away from populated areas, preferably after dark. Note that reasonably thick work gloves should be worn at all times when trying to capture a bat. Also, if a bite or physical contact occurs, capture the bat without damaging its head and immediately contact a physician. Management of problems involving bat colonies requires more complicated procedures and a greater time commitment.

Exclusion - The most satisfactory and permanent method of managing nuisance bats is to exclude them from buildings. Prevent bats from entering the home by practicing IPM techniques previously discussed. (See Squirrel Control, as well.) Often it is apparent where bats might gain entrance even when such openings are not directly observable. By standing in various locations of a darkened attic during daylight hours, one often can find leaks of light at the extreme parts of eaves, in layers of subroofing, and below chimney flashings. Seal all gaps of 1/4 x 1 1/2 inches and openings 5/8 x 7/8 inch or greater.

Bats will also use some of the same obscure holes in buildings through which heat (or cooled air) is lost; thus, bat-proofing often conserves energy. Simple, homemade devices can be used to locate air leaks. Bathroom tissue or very thin plastic film bags can be taped to a clothes hanger. When placed in front of an area with an air leak (for example, around window frames and sashes where caulking or weather stripping are needed), the tissue or plastic will wave and flutter from air movement. The easiest time to seal bats out of buildings is during the cooler part of the year when colonies are not resident. During this period, many homeowners need to be reminded that bats, and bat problems, return each summer

Non-chemical Controls – Hardware mesh screening over openings may be coupled with one-way doors manufactured by companies specializing in bat management. These doors allow the bat to leave, but not to enter. Netting is usually not a good idea, as the bat may become tangled, and die a lingering and miserable death. Conventional draft sweeps (metal, rubber) and other weather stripping supplies (felt, vinyl, metal) will seal the space between a door bottom and the threshold or around windows

Hardware mesh screening placed around any openings is a good way to prevent bats, squirrels, and other animals from entering

your chimney or attic.

While many chemical aromatics and irritants have been proposed and tested for bat repellency, the success has been very limited to date. Illumination has been reported to be an effective repellent. Floodlights strung through an attic to illuminate all roosting sites may cause bats to leave. Large attics may require many 100-watt bulbs or 150-watt spotlights to be effective. Fluorescent bulbs may also be used. In some situations such lighting is difficult, costly, and an electrical hazard. Where possible, the addition of windows to brighten an attic will help to reduce the desirability of the roost site and is not likely to introduce additional problems.


Air drafts have successfully repelled bats in areas where it is possible to open doors, windows, or create strong breezes by use of electric fans. Addition of wall and roof vents will enhance this effort, as well as lower roost temperature. In a similar fashion, colonies located in soffits, behind cornices, and other closed-in areas can be discouraged by opening these areas to eliminate dark recesses. Discourage bats from roosting behind shutters by removing the shutters completely or by adding small blocks at the corners to space them a few inches away from the wall.

Ultrasonic devices have been tested under natural conditions, both indoors and outdoors, to repel bats either in the roost or as they fly toward an entrance hole. The results have not been promising. Numerous ultrasonic devices have been removed from clients’ homes because the bats remained in the roost after the devices were activated. Distress cries of bats recorded on tape and rebroadcast can be used to attract other bats to nets or traps, but they do not serve as an effective repellent. Little Brown and Big Brown Bats respond to their own distress cries but not to the cries of other species. Another non-chemical control is to place manufactured, (or home made) bat houses some distance from the house, and to follow the guidelines above for driving them from your home.

Birds Birds become pests when they create a physical or health hazard or when they damage or deface property. Some ways in which this happens are:

• Large numbers of birds near airports cause a hazard to air travel.

• Birds deface buildings, monuments, and vehicles with their droppings.

• Birds and their can get caught in building ventilation equipment, dryer vents, exhaust fans, and HVAC ducts, sometimes causing damage to the equipment and spreading germs and allergens throughout the building.

• The droppings of many birds contain pathogens that cause several serious diseases, such as histoplasmosis or cryptococcosis.

• Ectoparasites living or feeding on birds can transmit a number of serious diseases including West Nile virus and other arboviral encenphalitides.

In order to achieve lasting effectiveness, most bird control work begins with non-chemical measures to exclude birds from sensitive areas and/or make a property less attractive to birds. Done properly, non-chemical bird control is both safer and more permanent than using chemicals. However, it may require working on ladders or scaffolds and can be dangerous; so many people prefer to call a professional rather than trying do-it-yourself bird control.

Some non-chemical bird-control measures include:

• Proper sanitation and refuse management, to remove sources of food that attract and sustain pest bird populations.

Pigeon feces can carry several different kinds of diseases.


http://www.cdc.gov/ncidod/dbmd/diseaseinfo/histoplasmosis_g.htm

http://www.cdc.gov/ncidod/dbmd/diseaseinfo/cryptococcosis_t.htm

http://www.cdc.gov/ncidod/dvbid/arbor/arbdet.htm

• Exclusion measures, such as covering roof vents and other structural openings with bird-proof covers, bird netting, or hardware cloth.

• The use of bird spikes, which are placed along ledges and other places where birds roost. • "Fright devices," such as ultrasonic repellants, tape that irritates the birds, stroboscopic devices,

motorized owl manikins, coyote silhouettes, inflatable snakes, and inflatable eyeballs, all of which are designed to frighten pest birds away without harming them.

In general, pretty much all of these methods will help keep birds away -- for a while. However, most of the fright devices lose their effectiveness as the birds lose their fear of the devices. Birds may not be the smartest animals in the world, but even they eventually realize that bird fright devices never actually seem interested in attacking them. Move the devices every three or four days, which tends to prolong their effectiveness

A plastic owl is a good means of repelling birds from unwanted areas.

Birds can create a nuisance in all sorts of situations, and many novel and unique approaches to bird control have been tried -- with varying degrees of success. For example:

• Some airports, like Pearson International Airport in Toronto, Canada, employ predator animals such as trained falcons or dogs to scare birds away from aircraft flight paths.

• Trained dogs are also helping to keep golf courses free of unwanted geese.

• Some people make mobiles out of the unwanted CD-ROM disks that constantly show up in their mailboxes, and hang them outside their homes to frighten away woodpeckers. Old pots and pans hung from the side of the house also seem effective. (Of course, your neighbors may wonder if you've lost your mind by hanging your pots and pans outside, but hey, nothing's perfect.)

Chipmunks

Chipmunks can cause a tremendous amount of damage through their gnawing and burrowing activities. Pools and sidewalks can be undermined and garden plants ravaged by this cute animals behavior. Chipmunks are not a true hibernator, but they will den up for extended periods of time during severe winter weather. They often prefer their dens to be located in stone walls.

How can you tell if you have chipmunks, other than another type of pest? Look for these signs

• 2-inch clean round hole, sometimes a second hole is nearby;

• Alert whistles can be heard • Easily seen scurrying around searching for

nuts; or • Tracks:

1. 4 toe pad marks on hind feet 2. Size of front feet 1/2 inch X 1/2 3. Hind and front pairs of tracks are

together when animal is bounding. Front feet usually diagonally placed behind hind feet.

Chipmunks, while cute additions to a yard, can be a pest in the flower or vegetable garden.


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http://exn.ca/AnimalTracks/DeadlyEncounters/Story2.cfm

http://www.reviewjournal.com/lvrj_home/2000/Sep-08-Fri-2000/news/14340951.html

Chipmunks can be pests in the home landscape by caching seeds, flower bulbs, or pet food. Their burrows can undermine pools, sidewalks, and embankments. Chipmunks can also prey upon young birds and their eggs.

Before deciding on a control measure, ask yourself these questions:

• Can I keep the chipmunk from digging in the garden by erecting a fence or other exclusion device? • If I can’t erect an effective barrier, can I repel them from the site? Often visual, sound, or

chemical repellents are available. • Can I move the animal safely and effectively? Often live trapping is effective in removing

problem animals.

The most effective types of chipmunk control are exclusion and trapping. Each method has advantages and disadvantages, and homeowners must decide which method will work for their particular problem. Be patient. Animal damage problems are rarely solved quickly.

How do you control Chipmunks without using chemicals? First control their habitat: • Remove food sources such as bird feeders, seed bearing trees. • Remove harborage such as stone walls and replace with wood or brick or interlocking stone. • Exclusion: Use 1/4-inch (6-7 mm) hail screen mesh; rodent proof stored seeds or pet food.

In wooded areas where chipmunks are abundant, the best long-term solution is to exclude them from important areas. In these situations, trapping becomes never-ending, and exclusion is cheaper and less time consuming. Hardware cloth is one of the best exclusion materials available. Use 1/4-inch material and be sure to bury it 6 inches to 8 inches deep to keep chipmunks from digging under sidewalks and around gardens or other important areas.

Chipmunks can be easily trapped using live-traps. Your chances of catching several chipmunks in a short period are increased if you place bait on or in an unset trap for three to four days before setting the traps. Good baits include a mixture of peanut butter and oatmeal, sweet corn and high-quality grains, including wheat, barley, oats, or peanuts.

Live traps are a more humane, and legal, method of chipmunk control.

For best results, set the trap in a burrow where chipmunks have been seen entering. Wedge the door end firmly into the entrance and prop the trap into position with a block of wood. Gravity will hold the door closed until the chipmunk enters as it leaves the burrow and traps itself. Other live-traps can also be effective. Pre-bait these traps and block open the door. Place the trap close to the burrow entrance in a runway. You can increase your trapping success by covering wire live-traps with canvas, cardboard, or some other dark material.

Coyotes In the last 30 years the coyote (Canis latrans) has gradually spread throughout the eastern United States from its historic range in the plains and mountains of western North America. Except for the eastern mountains, the coyote is now common in all parts of Kentucky.


Although the bulk of their diet consists of small wild mammals, carrion, fruits, and vegetable matter, some coyotes will kill livestock or household pets if given the opportunity. Coyotes’ most common prey is lambs (less often adult sheep), calves, swine, and poultry. Not all coyotes live by killing livestock, however. Livestock losses often are due to individual “problem” coyotes that have learned to kill livestock or that have been afforded an easy opportunity by the farmer. Free-ranging dogs also kill and injure livestock.

Although range conditions and livestock management differ between western states and Kentucky, the coyote behaves basically the same everywhere, and many predation management practices used in the West are applicable to Kentucky. Kentucky homeowners should take full advantage of their western counterparts’ knowledge.

Coyotes are not protected in Kentucky and may be taken year-round with traps or non-locking snares during the furbearer trapping season. Coyote traps are restricted, which can be further explained by the Kentucky Department of Fish and Wildlife.

If you have a problem with coyotes on your property, contact the KY Department of Fish and Wildlife for proper control methods within an urban environment. Coyotes are now fairly common in KY.

The coyote is an opportunist and will eat whatever is easiest to obtain and consistently present. They can be an important predator of rodents, rabbits, and similarly sized mammals and also eat carrion (dead animals). In the summer, coyotes eat substantial amounts of vegetable matter, fruits, and insects. Where deer are abundant, coyotes may prey on fawns in late spring.

Where coyotes are present, one adult coyote per 1 to 2 square miles is an average population density over a large area. However, population levels often vary considerably between areas or from year to year. The size of a coyote’s home range may vary from 5 to 13 square miles or more, but daily activity is usually confined to smaller areas. Coyotes are most active at night and at dawn, often traveling 3 to 8 miles each night within their home range. During the daytime, coyotes usually rest or “bed” in different locations each day (except when adults are caring for pups at a den).

Coyotes are basically solitary and do not travel in packs like wolves, although family groups (up to six to eight animals) may be seen. Coyote pairs or family groups live in distinct, non-overlapping territories.

Human activity is a major cause of coyote mortality in many areas. Coyotes also are susceptible to a number of canine diseases including distemper, hepatitis, mange, parvovirus, and rabies. Average annual mortality rates of 30 to 40 percent for adults and up to 70 percent for juveniles are typical.

If you have a problem with coyotes on your property, contact the KY Department of Fish and Wildlife for proper control methods within an urban environment.

Deer Deer feed on many plants and trees. They love vegetables, flowers, and the tender tips of young trees. They may also damage trees by rubbing their antlers against them. They'll dig up a lawn in search of grubs, the fall favorite of many forest animals. Stopping them from doing what comes naturally to them--foraging for food-- can be difficult, especially during long snowy winters when food supplies are scarce.


Most landscapes are like a drive through restaurant for a hungry deer, and many people plant native plants that are especially attractive to dear. You have several options: ignore the animals and just admire their intrinsic value, plant less of their favorite foods, or try controlling their feeding habits. Chapter 8 lists native plants that repel deer or other wildlife. There are also cultural controls.

Several deer repellent products are available that promise to reduce feeding on valuable plants and trees. Many are short-lived, and once the deer become accustom to the odor or taste, they may become ineffective. It is best to change products or methods on a regular basis.

1. Hang a bar of soap in a mesh bag from a tree. Fragrant soaps such as Lifebuoy, Irish Spring, and Dial seem to work the best. If there are several trees to protect, use hotel-size bars, or cut the larger bars into several pieces. Tie the bags to the ends of the branches so that any soap that drips off during a rain or snowstorm will not drip onto the trunk. There have been some reports that rabbits will gnaw on the soap residue.

2. Human or dog hair can also be placed in mesh bags or nylons and hung from tree branches.

3. Baby powder, blood meal, or bone meal will also provide some resistance to their feeding, but these will require continued, repeat applications.

4. Many kids of deer-resistant fencing is available for purchase and installation as well.

Deer will often feed on native plants that are planted to attract them. Other plants may be

selected that repel deer and other wildlife.

Deer are beautiful creatures and fascinating to watch. Keeping your landscape free of them browsing through the garden can be a frustrating and perhaps a hopeless task, so sit back and enjoy Mother Nature doing her thing. After all, deer are relatively harmless.

Dogs Dog urine and feces can be a frustrating lawn care problem. Small amounts may produce a green up or fertilizer effect while larger amounts result in lawn burn or dead patches. While most burn spots recover with time, dead areas can be large enough in some cases to require reseeding or sodding. Homeowners who are also dog lovers, are presented with a dilemma, particularly when one family member prefers the dog and another prefers a well-manicured lawn.


The presence of urine or feces on the lawn is related to the nitrogen content and concentration of these waste products. Urine, when produced as a waste product in animals, removes excess nitrogen from the body via the kidneys. Nitrogen waste products are the result of protein breakdown through normal bodily processes. Carnivores, including cats and dogs, have a significant protein requirement, and urine volume/production varies due to animal size and metabolism. Urine is a more serious problem for lawns because it is applied all at once as a liquid fertilizer, whereas feces slowly release the waste products over time. Since stools are usually solid, owners have the option of frequent removal. With more time for the waste to dissolve into the lawn, stools that are frequently removed, damage lawns less than urine.

Urine spots in the lawn can be annoying.

The primary concern from urine damage to lawns is minimizing the nitrogen concentration added to the lawn at any single time. Female dogs, being less likely to urine mark and more likely to squat, are the primary culprits of lawn damage since they will urinate anywhere on a lawn and usually all at once. This habit results in a single nitrogen dump confined to a small patch of grass. The resulting brown spot often have a green ring around the outside. The nitrogen overload at the center causes the burn, but as the urine dilutes toward the edges, it has a fertilizer effect. This characteristic brown spot/green ring pattern has been called "female dog spot disease" by some horticulturists. As might be expected, lawns most susceptible to nitrogen burns are ones where standard fertilizers are maximized in the lawn. Using a low-maintenance or native grass on the lawn will help to control the problem. Homeowners making the extra effort to have a green lawn may be quite discouraged by their neighbor's dog damage or their own pet's potty residue

A great many dietary modifications for dogs have been tried, often based on home remedies or anecdotal experience. A veterinarian should always be consulted prior to making any dietary modifications, whether they include additions or subtractions from standard nutrient guidelines. Remember, the pH of the urine has little or no effect on the urine damage to the lawn. The addition of acidifying agents, fruit juices, or alkalinizing agents can predispose the dog to bladder stones or infections, which may be fatal. Therefore, they are not recommended.

When owners have reported successes, as is sometimes the case on Internet forums, liquids likely improved the situation because the urine concentration after treatment was diluted. Safer ways to accomplish more dilute urine include feeding canned food, or moistening dry food with water prior to feeding. No not add salt or garlic salt to the food, nor use tomato juice, the increased salt intake can cause problems for dogs, especially those with existing kidney or heart conditions.

Dogs with more diluted urine may have to urinate more frequently and need more frequent elimination opportunities, so remember this when adding water to the dry dog food. While specific breed differences haven't been noted, as a rule, smaller dogs produce less urine than larger dogs so are dumping less nitrogen waste. Dogs with bladder infections often demonstrate an urgency to urinate and typically squat several times, leaving small amounts or drops each time. Dog owners who actually note that their dog's urine is no longer causing lawn burn, without having made any changes, should have their dog examined by their veterinarian and a urinalysis performed to make sure there are no medical conditions causing this change. The health of your pet comes before the health of your lawn.


Like all IPM practices, prevention is often the key. Where applicable, fences can be used to keep neighboring dogs from eliminating on the lawn. Advising neighbors of the legality of leash laws, where applicable, can restrict damage to areas near sidewalks and on tree lawns/median right of ways. Unfortunately, no repellents are universally effective although a variety of home remedies have been tried. Hot and bitter products are most likely to have taste or odor aversion for dogs. Most repellents function better as taste repellents than to touch or odor repellents. Some odor repellents may actually encourage a dog to over-mark the strange smell. Some of the better known commercial repellents have these limitations as well.

A newly developed motion activated sprinkler, primarily designed to keep cats and rabbits out of gardens, may have benefits for some yards. The sprinkler, may provide benefit in small yards or at corners of front yards where damage is most likely to occur; however, the

presence of numerous squirrels, stray animals or children may result While humans enjoy their pets, a dog can be a nuisance on the lawn, especially if it

isn’t your pet.

in over-watering and very high water bills if they continuously trigger this device.

In many cases, the problem dog is the homeowner's housemate. Walking the dog to a park or field away from the house is a simple remedy to this. The time can be well spent since exercise has physical and emotional benefits for both dogs and their owners. Homeowners are encouraged to choose an appropriate destination and not create problem lawns elsewhere that may affect the overall aesthetics of the neighborhood.

A more feasible approach may be to train the pet to eliminate in a designated area of the yard. This area would be a landscaped area specifically designed for the dog. It could be covered with something like pea gravel or mulch acceptable to the dog and may even include a marking post like a large boulder, bird bath, or some other lawn ornament. (Some lawn ornaments are even shaped like fire hydrants.) Collecting the dog's urine in a cup and using it in this area for several days can provide some odor attractant value to this area. Feces can also be collected and transported to the new, designated area . Consistency for at least 2-3 weeks is important to establish this as a routine, trained behavior; several months may be necessary in some cases. Initially, training can occur with the dog on a short leash and food rewards employed.

Dogs should not be unsupervised in the yard while this initial training is occurring. It is often easier to train a young puppy to a particular ground texture than an adult dog, but never impossible in any age dog. A variable reward system utilizing one standard treat if urinating anywhere outside and several treats or a special treat if in the designated area, can be helpful in this process and avoid confusing the dog regarding the new housebreaking rules. It is important for the dog owner to realize that it is often difficult for anything to urinate or defecate on command.

The use of gypsum will not prevent urine damage. However, it is helpful in neutralizing areas that have had dog-urine burn. This is especially true in the spring. Dogs often like to do their business in places that smell familiar. During the cold winter months this is usually someplace close to the back door. When spring arrives and everything is greening up, you'll probably find a dead spot that refuses to green. It is here that gypsum can be helpful. Gypsum will help neutralize the remaining urine-salts in that area making it possible to successfully re-seed the area. Spread a thin layer of gypsum over the area. Give it a few days to completely neutralize the area before re-seeding.


Geese If you have a population of Canadian Geese living on your property, you have probably already tried as many remedies as you can get your hands on to get rid of these large pests and nothing has worked consistently over time. The one item that does work is putting a grid of black monofilament lines (like heavy duty fishing line) across the waterway that attracts the geese. The grid consists of about 25 lines in each direction and about 2 to 3 feet above the surface. When the geese come in to land, it looks to them as if there are twice as many wires because of the reflection on the water. Besides the visual confusion, if the geese actually do try to land, they will hit the lines and be scared off. Some tips on geese:

• Female geese are the ones you need to move. If the female leaves, the male goes with her. • The longer geese sit on the nest, the more defensive they become. Once female goose has

established a nest, leave her alone, for your own safety. • Use more than one element in the deterring process. Geese are very adaptable and will quickly

learn that a decoy is not going to hurt them. Change tactics often. • Visual harassment does work well by itself. Add other stimulants, especially sound. • Begin the disruption process in the fall when the first migrants arrive to scout the territory.

Early is better than later.

Sight - Sight aversions are designed to look like predators. While some sight scare aversions are virtually useless due to the fact that geese become accustomed to their presence, others have been modified for maximum effectiveness. Rather than the traditional statue of an owl, try a balloon with Mylar eyes. These are designed so that the eyes appear to follow any goose within a given area. Rather than sitting on the ground, they can be hung in trees so that they blow in the wind and move as a real predator would. For even more impact, they can be moved periodically to keep the geese from getting used to them. Also, holographic tape can be useful as the geese will feel ill-at-ease as the reflection changes with the light. Sight scare tactics are an economical and easy approach to dealing with bird troubles. They are very effective especially if you have a smaller property.

Smell - Geese utilize something called the trigeminal system which is similar to our sense of smell. A constituent of concord grapes has been found to be so unappealing to Canada geese that it actually seems to overwhelm them to the point that they are driven away from the treated environment. Despite its dramatic effect on bird infestation it has been used by the food and drug industry for over 40 years to flavor candy, sodas, gums, and medicines, is listed by the US FDA as "Generally Recognized As Safe" (GRAS), and

Canadian Geese can be a real nuisance on the lawn. is classified by the US EPA as "reduced risk".

Touch - For specific areas that you would like to protect, netting can be used to block an area off from geese.

Taste - Products that utilize the same part of concord grapes that were mentioned in the “smell” section also act upon the sense of taste. Geese will not want to graze on your property when the overwhelming sensation of these products hits them.

Sound - There are goose-specific sound devices that project the sound of distress calls into an area. While many companies carry sonic bird control devices they are not all created equal. In fact, all but one of these sonic devices uses distress calls that were recorded in a laboratory environment. As a result,


http://www.articlesbase.com/landscaping-articles/repel-geese-from-your-property-258547.html



the calls obtained by the researchers are not the same calls a flock would use to signify real, immediate danger in the wilderness and are, therefore, less effective. Some manufacturers distribute a sonic goose repeller with varied recordings obtained from the wild. These devices include the very rare “alarm call” which is elicited for only the most dire emergencies. Prior to purchase of a sonic goose repeller, it would be wise to investigate which sounds were recorded and by what method.

These devices are especially useful if you have a large property or small farm which is otherwise difficult to monitor. One unit covers 5-7 acres of land and adding another unit extends the coverage to 15-21 acres. After a couple scares geese will remember that your area is considered unsafe and will find another, safer environment for when they are molting and nesting—times when they are most vulnerable.

Gophers Gophers are definitely difficult to control. They also can do considerable damage. They are strictly vegetarians and most of their tunnels are about 12" — 18" below the surface, however, they do have much deeper tunnels that can go down 5' or so.

There are some home remedies that have questionable results. One is planting caster bean plants. Caster Bean Plants are highly toxic, (See Chapter 6), and should never be planted in a home environment. In addition remedies like the vibrating windmill and ultrasonic devices usually don't work either. Gophers don't frighten easily. Just imagine how much vibration and noise a lawn mower causes going overhead every week

and if you have gophers, you know already that they Gophers are rodents that can cause considerable damage

to a lawn. aren't moving out because you're a noisy neighbor.

An alternative, non-chemical control that may work is to pour used cat litter down the main hole. The bentonite in the cat litter, (the ‘scoopable’ kind is best), helps to seal the hole, and the odor is unpleasant. In addition, the bentonite prevents the urine and feces within the cat litter from entering the groundwater, as it is mixed. Bentonite is used to seal water wells and other potential contaminant containers to prevent pollution of the groundwater. A cat is also a natural predator of gophers. Now, whether it's the gopher’s basic survival instincts or the fact that gophers don't care much for the smell, it must send them packing to a safer and better smelling area. If this doesn’t work, contact a professional about trapping the gopher for release at another area, or enjoy the gopher as a wildlife enthusiast.

If this doesn’t work, the next best remedy is traps. It may take several tries getting it set just right to nab them. Even though they are usually solitary critters, during the spring, they are usually in an amorous mood and will probably have a mate or two holed up with them so you'll have to keep at it putting traps in at several tunnel openings. Remember, it is illegal, (in Kentucky), to release a pest without permission of the person owning the property where you wish to release the pest. So, remember that to release the animal, you may have some difficulty finding a place for release in the wild.


Find the main tunnel by locating a fresh opening and then determine its direction by running a rod (or buy a gopher probe--really!) into the ground around an imaginary circle. You'll notice a give in the pressure when you hit the tunnel. The main tunnel runs underground for a considerable distance. They will then dig up to the surface in various places and these are the mounds you see in your yard. You want to find the main tunnel, not the lateral access tubes.

Once you find the main tunnel, dig a hole that intercepts this tunnel. Set two traps, one on each side of the exposed openings so you'll be catching them either coming or going. Normally, you don't have to bait the traps, but it may help. If you opt for this you might consider using lettuce, carrots, or slices of apple.

Humane gopher traps catch the gopher without

harming it for release elsewhere.

Once the traps are properly set, place some cardboard over the hole you dug and cover with soil so no light enters the hole. If you don't catch one in 3 days, you've got a dead-end tunnel and will need to relocate it and try again. Once you get the problem under control, be prepared for a re-infestation, especially if you live in an area bordering a vacant lot, or wild-lands. You might get rid of the ones in your yard, but as soon as that tunnel becomes vacant, another opportunistic critter will take advantage of the already excavated new digs.

Groundhogs


and Woodchucks You may have ground hogs if you see 10" — 12" holes on your property or your neighbors. You may have groundhogs on your property if you notice large bites taken from your vegetables garden fruits. You may have groundhogs on your property if you notice gnawed marks near the base of your fruit trees.

These are all symptoms of woodchuck or groundhog activity. You may have noticed them along the highway as they sit on the rear haunches observing their territories. Groundhogs hibernate in winter and don't usually stir from their comfy burrows. The same burrow is also used for mating (which occurs just after hibernation ends) and raising young. A groundhog burrow will often have one main entrance and an emergency escape hatch. Some groundhogs have a summer home and a winter retreat. Groundhogs are typically solitary critters, only getting together with other groundhogs to mate and for the mother to raise her young. Once the young are mature, they leave the burrow to fend for themselves, and seldom return.

Groundhogs can also damage lawns.

When you have verified that you indeed have a groundhog on the property, you have a few courses of action:

1. Do nothing and enjoy watching the wildlife up close.

2. Scaring the groundhogs away from the garden with motion devices or making it uncomfortable for them to remain by using repellents either in the form of disagreeable odors or providing things that taste bad.

3. You can also erect fencing that will keep groundhogs out of the garden once you've removed the ones that you have living on the premises.

4. As a last resort, you can also try trapping them as they leave their home and then relocating them to a place where groundhogs and people can co-exist in harmony. However, these places are few and far between. Most farmers don't like having groundhogs around any more than you do as an urban gardener. Next, if you release them alongside a deserted road, they will probably become road-kill in short order. Also, live-trapping and relocating can be illegal in some states. (In KY, you must have the property owner’s permission to release an animal.)

Option #2 is often the most viable. Epsom salts can be sprinkled on the vegetation and fruits of your garden plants to render them foul-tasting to groundhogs. Epsom salts may even help some of your garden plants grow better. Rain will quickly wash away Epsom salts requiring you to make repeated applications which may not be quite as good for the plants as a single application.

Ammonia is also a deterrent. However, it is not only foul-smelling to the groundhogs, but to people as well. Ammonia-soaked rags can be strewn along the perimeter of your garden, forming a stinky barrier to repel groundhogs, or near the main hole of the groundhog’s home. But even ammonia's smell fades eventually and Epsom salts may be purchased at most local

pharmacies, and has a variety of uses, besides groundhog repellent.

a re-application will be necessary.

Once the groundhog is removed, then fencing becomes the best way of keeping these guys away. Fencing will need to be 3' — 4' in height with a portion buried to help prevent tunneling. For extreme situations, you may even want to add an electrified hot wire that will give the animal a sudden, but non-fatal jolt when touched. This hot wire will need to be about 4" — 5" above ground level, and should be clearly marked, to protect humans from an unpleasant jolt. Groundhog control can be a long battle of wits between man and animal. It will take repeated attempts and combinations of deterrents for you to win.

Mice The house mouse is remarkably well-adapted for living year-round in homes, food establishments and other structures. Homeowners are especially likely to notice mice during winter, following their fall migration indoors in search of warmth, food and shelter. Once mice become established inside a home, they can be extremely difficult to control. (See also, Rats)

Mice are more common than rats and cause significantly more damage. Mice are prolific breeders, producing 6-10 litters continuously throughout the year. The greatest economic loss from mice is not due to how much they eat, but what must be thrown out because of damage or contamination. Food, clothing, furniture, books and many other household items are contaminated by their droppings and urine, or damaged by their gnawing. House mice gnaw through electrical wiring, causing fires and failure of freezers, clothes dryers and other appliances. Mice also can transmit diseases, most notably salmonellosis (bacterial food poisoning) when food is contaminated with infected rodent feces.


Mice are nocturnal creatures, and, therefore, are rarely seen by the homeowner. The most obvious indicators of their presence are droppings (1/8 - 1/2-inches long, dark and pointed at both ends), sounds of them running, gnawing or squeaking, or damage to stored food or materials used for nesting.

Compared to rats, mice forage only short distances from their nest -- usually not more than 10-25 feet. When food and shelter are adequate, their foraging range may be only a few feet. For this reason, traps and other control devices must be placed in areas where mouse activity is most apparent. Mice prefer to travel adjacent to walls and other edges-- another critical point to remember when positioning control devices. Mice are very Mice inside the home can be a serious pest. Vectors of

disease, they can also cause a lot of damage to books, clothing, and other items.

inquisitive and will investigate each new object placed in their foraging territory. If control devices are not initially successful, move them around to a different location.

Good sanitation and food storage practices are helpful in reducing problems with house mice. Since seeds are a preferred food, all adjacent to the building should likewise be eliminated. However, because mice are able to occupy such small nesting areas and survive on minute amounts of food, sanitation alone will not normally eliminate an existing infestation.

Other than calling a pest control firm, homeowners have two non-chemical control options available for ridding their premises of mice:

• traps, or • glue boards.

Traps are generally preferred over rodenticides. Traps are less hazardous to use around children and pets. Because mice are caught by the trap, there is less chance of odor from mice dying in wall voids or other inaccessible areas. Conventional snap-type traps are easy to use and available at most supermarkets and hardware stores. Trapping efficiency will be enhanced by tying small pieces of bacon, gum drops, peanut butter or raisins to the trigger with thread. Research has shown that snap traps with an expanded trigger catch significantly more mice than conventional designs. Another type of trap available at most hardware and farm-supply stores is a multiple-catch mouse trap. This device can capture and hold a dozen or more mice before needing to be emptied.

Mouse traps are an effective method of control.


Regardless of which design is used, traps should be placed up against walls, behind objects, and in secluded areas where mouse droppings, gnawing and damage are evident. Snap traps should be oriented perpendicular to the wall, with the trigger end against the vertical surface. Multiple-catch traps should be oriented with the entrance hole parallel to the wall. Take care when setting the trap, as the snap trap can also snap on fingers!

Glue boards also are very effective against mice. Mice become entangled in the glue when they run over the boards, soon dying of suffocation. In addition to traps, they are the method of choice in homes and other sensitive locations. Should the glue from a glue board contact the fur of a pet or the skin of a child, it can be removed with mineral or vegetable oil.

A third alternative is to acquire a cat. Cats are natural predators of mice, and, even if the cat does not actually catch a mouse, the attention the cat plays to the mouse may cause the mice to become uncomfortable and leave the home. However, do not purchase a cat simply for mouse control, as you will be disappointed. Cats are also pets, and must be also become a part of the family—not just a rodent control method.

Traps and glue boards should be checked daily and dead mice disposed of in plastic bags. Gloves should be worn when handling mouse carcasses to prevent any chance of disease.

Moles There are several types of moles in the United States, but two, the Eastern mole and the starnosed mole, are the ones that cause the most damage for homeowners. Moles are about the size of a chipmunk and weight between 3 — 6 ounces. Although their damage seems to come and go, they usually stay in one location year round. As the weather cools, they go deeper in the ground and sometimes go into a modified hibernation period during extreme cold, so their damage is less apparent. In some aspects they are very similar to gophers.

Moles will move nearer to the surface as the insects they seek migrate also migrate to the surface. This is when you're more likely to see damage in your lawn. Long burrowing tunnels crisscrossing your lawn certainly aren't attractive and when their tunnels approach the surface of the soil, they usually chew through the roots of a lawn causing it to yellow and die.

The reason the little miners are digging their way through your lawn is that they are looking for food, (insects), and finding it. They typically enjoy feasting on insects, with grubs and worms being at the top of the list. You can almost count on finding grubs in your lawn if you have moles. Moles are thought to damage roots and tubers by feeding on them, but rodents usually are to blame. Scientists have determined moles eat anywhere from 50% — 100% of their body weight each day depending on temperature and other climate conditions.

Even though moles eat grubs, worms, and insects,

they can cause quite a lot of damage to a lawn. The best way to prevent moles from residing in your

lawn is to prevent grubs, (the larvae stage of many insects), from growing into adults and reproducing.

The easiest way to get rid of them is to get rid of the grubs. However, this is no guarantee. Moles also enjoy earthworms and a soil favorable to earthworms, which is also easy for the moles to dig through. This is particularly true in garden areas where the soil is normally very loamy— ideal for worms and ideal for moles to dig in.


http://www.landscape-america.com/problems/animals/gophers.html

The only proven way to rid your lawn of moles is humane traps. Chewing gum, flooding, gassing, noise or vibration makers, spraying for grubs and other methods to rid your lawn of moles do not work, and may cause damage to the environment. Moles often leave active areas. You still hear other methods touted as successful, but that is because the mole has moved on. The only proven method is humane traps that catch the mole for release elsewhere.

The best time for humane trapping is early spring, about the same time as the forsythia blooms. This is normally before they breed, so getting rid of one mole then, is the same as getting rid of 7. Consult with your Cooperative Extension agent for availability of and instructions on using traps. To avoid potential injury, never remove a mole trap from the ground unless it is disarmed.

Before initiating a control program for moles, be sure that they are what is causing the damage. Moles play an important role in soil management and grub control. Moles work in the top soil and sub-soil. Only a part of this work is visible from the surface. Mole tunneling permits better aeration of the top soil and sub-soil, carrying humus farther down and bringing the subsoil nearer the surface.

Trap and release mole management programs

are a humane method of minimizing mole damage to the lawn, and are environmentally-friendly. Remember that moles can also be beneficial to

your lawn’s health.

Did you know:

• Moles can tunnel at 15' — 18' per hour in un-excavated ground; • They can travel up to 80' per minute through existing runs; • Moles are carnivorous predators, killing and eating other animals, insects and their larvae.

Earthworms are their favorite meal; • Moles have very poor eyesight, but very sensitive touch. They can detect the motion of an

earthworm; • They do not eat roots, tubers, or bulbs, but are often blamed for this damage, usually because

other critters such as gophers will occupy abandoned mole runs; • When the soil dries out in the summer months, they burrow deeper and push out the diggings as

loose soil piles producing the classic molehill; and • The moles have only a few natural enemies because of their secluded life underground. Coyotes,

dogs, badgers, and skunks dig out a few of them, and occasionally a cat, hawk, or owl surprises one above ground.

Muskrats People either love or hate muskrats. Muskrats hold a special place in the scientific and wildlife community because much of our early understanding of wild animal population dynamics was derived using the muskrat as an experimental animal. These semi-aquatic furbearers are clean animals.

But if you are a decorative or other pond owner or gardener plagued by their burrowing and feeding activities, you are likely to consider the muskrat a pest. The most serious conflicts between humans and muskrats occur when muskrats burrow into the banks of ponds, reservoirs and other earthen water-retaining structures. By tunneling into the dam, muskrats may cause a leak that is difficult to plug, resulting in pond drainage.


They can also become a nuisance to gardeners when they feed on crops or vegetables. Urban homeowners sometimes become terrified of muskrats because they mistake these clean, water-loving, plant-eating rodents for black or Norway rats. This is a common mistake because a muskrat, with its flattened, scaly, sparsely haired tail, resembles a large vole (to which it is closely related). This fear is unwarranted because muskrats are very clean animals and do not carry most of the diseases associated with rats and mice.

Muskrats are often mistaken for rats that carry disease,

but the Muskrat is a clean plant-eating animal.

Muskrats (Ondatra zibethica) are one of the largest rodents in Kentucky. They are stocky animals with broad heads and short legs. Their pelts consist of soft, thick underfur with long, glossy, dark-red to dusky-brown guard hairs. Their front feet are not webbed. They have four sharp-clawed toes and a small thumb on each front foot. Their large hind feet are partially webbed, with stiff hairs along the toes. Adult muskrats measure 16 to 25 inches in length and weigh between 1 3/4 and 4 pounds. Their tails measure 7 to 11 inches long.

Muskrats get their name from the pair of musk glands located at the base of their tails. These glands are used during the breeding season when musk is secreted on logs or other areas around houses, bank dens or trails on the bank to mark the area. Muskrats are found throughout Kentucky wherever appropriate habitat is found. Appropriate habitat for muskrats is almost anywhere they can find a year-round supply of food and water. Muskrats spend most of their lives in aquatic habitats, such as ditches, streams, marshes, lakes, beaver ponds, mine pits, farm ponds or any wetland area. The key component of muskrat habitat is slow-moving or non-flowing water that allows the growth of aquatic vegetation. Ideally, the water should be two to three feet deep. Cattails, bulrush, sedges and arrowhead (excellent for food and construction of houses) should be present around the bank.

Muskrats are vegetarians and relish cattails, bulrush, smartweed, duck potato, horsetail, water lily, sedges, young willow sprouts and pickerel weed. Muskrats will eat almost any aquatic vegetation, including the bulbs, roots, tubers, stems and leaves of numerous wetland plants. They occasionally eat corn, soybeans, grain sorghum and small grains. Muskrats will sometimes eat animals, such as crayfish, mussels, turtles, frogs or fish, during periods of low food supply.

For shelter muskrats use bank burrows, "houses" built of aquatic plants and feeding huts. The entrance to the burrow is usually a four- to six-inch diameter hole located six to eight inches below the surface of the water. This opens up to a lateral burrow which may be as long as 15 feet. At the end of the burrow is a raised, dry nest chamber.

A muskrat den is fairly distinctive.


Muskrats are mostly nocturnal and remain active all year. They are not great travelers, and the average home range is no larger than a 200-yard circle in optimal habitat. During the spring or fall and at times of crisis (flooding, drought, and food shortages) muskrats can move considerable distances. It is during these crisis periods that muskrats are often seen on roads and traveling through urban subdivisions. At these times it is not uncommon to see a muskrat miles from the nearest source of water.

Non-lethal methods of controlling muskrats are best for controlling muskrats in the urban environment. If you are experiencing muskrat damage to the point where control is necessary, consider using non-lethal traps during the winter. Muskrats are considered furbearing animals in Kentucky. An open trapping season is established for the legal harvest of these animals, and they are subject to all applicable state laws and regulations. Consult the Kentucky Department of Fish and Wildlife Resources for information on removal of muskrats. Another method of reducing muskrat problems is to remove their habitat or food supply (cattail, burreed, rushes, sedges and arrowhead). Unfortunately, this also decreases cover for a variety of desirable fish and wildlife species.

Opossums The Virginia Opossum (Didelphis virginiana) is a medium-sized animal with long, rather coarse fur; a sharp slender muzzle; prominent, thin, naked ears; short legs all about the same length; and a long grasping tail covered with scales and scant hairs. Opossums are in the family Marsupialia, which comes from a Latin word meaning “pouch” and refers to the pouch on the belly of the females. Young opossums are born incompletely formed and are carried in this pouch while they continue their growth and development.

Although most opossums are gray, there are several other color phases. Some are black, some are brown and a few are white. Generally, the nose is pink, the eyes are black and the ears are bluish-black. The tail is gray, and the feet and toes are pink to white. Adults range in length from 24 to 34 inches and weigh from 4 to 15 pounds.

Opossums need watering areas nearby. Although they seem to wander aimlessly, radio transmitter studies indicate that some opossums live their entire lives on as little as 40 acres. Opossums are omnivorous, which means they eat a wide variety of foods including carrion, crayfish, frogs, tadpoles, clams and berries.

Live traps are a good method of control for

opossums. Remember to acquire permission from the landowner prior to the release of any trapped

animal.

Generally, opossums do not cause humans much trouble. They live in urban and suburban habitats and sometimes get into basements, attics, sheds and garages. Often, they are injured or killed by automobiles as they cross highways. Opossums are known to host parasites such as mites, ticks, lice, fleas, roundworms, flukes and tapeworms. They may also spread fungal, bacterial and viral diseases.

Opossums are not aggressive and flee when pursued. A common defense is pretending to be dead, or “playing ’possum.” The frightened animal rolls over, becomes limp and shuts its eyes, coming back to life at the first opportunity to escape.

Opossums are not wary of live traps and are easily captured. Almost any kind of bait will attract opossums into a live trap. Fish, fresh fruit, or cat food work best. A live trap measuring 12 by 12 by 36 inches is big enough to capture the largest opossum.


Rabbits Rabbits generally inhabit places with dense cover such as brushy areas, wooded areas with some underbrush, or areas with piles of rocks or debris. Abandoned structures and sometimes cultivated fields are also used for cover. Open areas are used more at night, while dense cover is used more during the day. Rabbits seldom feed more than a few feet from its cover.

Most cottontails and brush rabbits have a home range of up to 10 to 15 acres. A good habitat, such as a park with a clump of low-growing junipers about 30 feet wide, may harbor 10 to 15 cottontails, but normal density is considerably less (an average of one rabbit per acre). Cottontails and brush rabbits are not territorial but maintain home ranges that overlap broadly with other individuals of all age and sex classes.

The food habits of cottontails and brush rabbits vary with the location and time of year. Cottontails feed seasonally on grasses, sedges, herbaceous plants, willows, oaks, blackberries, and wild roses. Brush rabbits prefer clover and also feed on the stems and berries of woody plants such as blackberry.

Rabbits can be very destructive in gardens and landscaped places. This is particularly true where wild or uncultivated lands border residential zones, parks, greenbelts, or other landscaped places. Open lands such as uncultivated, wild areas provide resting and hiding cover during the day within easy travel distances to prime, irrigated food sources.

The cosmopolitan tastes of rabbits are well illustrated by the following partial list of crops and plants they damage: vegetables (beans, beet, broccoli, carrot, lettuce, peas); tree and berry crops (almond, apple, blackberry, cherry, citrus, pistachio, plum, raspberry, strawberry); herbs (cilantro, parsley); and ornamental plantings (various flowers, shrubs, trees, and turf). Rabbits also gnaw and cut plastic irrigation lines.

Rabbits can cause a lot of damage to a vegetable garden, but are also a part of the wildlife that

makes viewing enjoyable.

Most rabbit damage is close to the ground, except where snow allows rabbits to reach higher portions of plants. Rabbits use their incisors to make a characteristic diagonal, 45° cut when clipping off woody twigs, buds from saplings, or flower heads. Twig clipping by rabbits is sometimes confused with deer browsing. Deer damage can be identified easily if it occurs above a height that rabbits can reach (about 2 feet) and by careful examination of the damaged twigs. Deer have no upper front teeth and must twist and pull when browsing, leaving a ragged break on the branch. Rabbits clip twigs off cleanly, as if with a knife.

Rabbits tend to gnaw the smooth, thin bark from young trees. The rough bark of older trees discourages gnawing, although old damage and gnaw marks are often present on old bark along with fresh patches of gnawing in areas of younger growth. Gnawing can completely girdle a tree, and clipping can remove the terminal shoot and lateral branches from plants. Damage by cottontails and brush rabbits is often concentrated in areas near escape cover.

Tularemia, or rabbit fever, may be carried by rabbits. This disease is relatively rare in humans but can be contracted by handling an infected rabbit with bare hands or by eating insufficiently cooked rabbit meat.

In rural-suburban areas where rabbits are abundant, the most cost efficient damage control is fencing using chicken wire, electric wire, or heavy duty plastic netting. Surround the garden with 36 inch widths of chicken wire attached to stakes. Bend the bottom 6 inches outward along the ground to prevent


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digging under the fence. By bending the top 6 inches outward, you can also prevent other animals from climbing the fence.

Plastic netting can be used in the same way as chicken wire. Use two layers if the netting is light gauge because rabbits will chew through netting. Encircle the garden with an electric fence by suspending 2 wires from insulators attached to stakes or rods. String the bottom wire 2 inches above the ground on the outside and the top wire 4 inches above the ground on the inside. Keep the wires weed and grass free. Charge with a garden electric fence charger.

Some commercial rabbit repellents will repel rabbits from all plants. Mix and apply according to the label. Make the first application to all plants in the garden and to all vegetation immediately surrounding the garden within 10 feet. Thereafter, apply only to vulnerable plants with as little material as possible. Re-treat every 10-14 days or after every rain. You can try used kitty litter from a cat that hunts and kills wildlife in and around the garden. Sometimes, this will repel rabbits. Scatter fresh kitty litter from such a cat in and around the garden once a week.

The most efficient and effective way to prevent rabbits from gnawing the bark off trees and shrubs is to encircle the base with a 12 inch - 24 inch width of 1 inch mesh chicken wire or welded wire. (If snow depth exceeds 18 inches, wider widths are necessary.) No supporting stakes are needed. The wire will remain effective for 5-10 years if left in place. Be sure to adjust the wire for tree growth.

Raccoons

Raccoons, Procyon


lotor, are found throughout most of the United States. Although raccoons are commonly found in wooded areas along rivers and streams, marshes or lakes, they have the ability to adapt and take advantage of new habitats. Like many animals they are opportunistic and seek a lifestyle that has the greatest reward for the least effort. Urban environments often present such opportunities, and raccoons have readily adapted. Kentucky’s raccoon population has increased significantly over the past decade. This increase has been particularly noticeable in urban and suburban areas of the state, where natural predators are few, artificial foods are abundant, and hunting and trapping are more restricted.

Raccoons are familiar to most of us and are one of the easiest of mammals to identify. They are grizzled gray in color and are distinguished by their bushy tail with alternating black or gray rings, and black mask across their face. The print of the hind foot faintly resembles that of a small child.

Most towns and cities in Kentucky have raccoons living within city limits. Because raccoons are active at night (nocturnal), they are seldom seen. Of all the wild animals that have adapted to city life, raccoons probably have the potential to be the most destructive. Raccoons cause problems when they lose their fear of humans and move into urban areas to live. Problems include feeding in garbage cans, establishing dens in chimneys and plugging them with nest material, tearing off shingles or facia boards to enter an attic or wall space, or causing damage to gardens and fruit trees. Raccoons also may carry fleas, ticks, lice, distemper, mange, and canine and feline parvovirus. Raccoons may also carry rabies, which is different from other rabies strains.

Raccoons can build their nests in chimneys, which can cause a lot of problems for the homeowner.

Raccoon rabies is extremely virulent and spreads very quickly. It is more dangerous to wildlife and people than the type that currently affects skunks and other animals. House pets are especially vulnerable to rabies spread by raccoons because of the raccoon's habit of haunting chimneys, attics, porches and trash cans.

Raccoon feces may also contain the roundworm eggs. Humans, especially children, who come in contact with raccoon feces containing this roundworm also can become infected. Clinical symptoms depend on the number of roundworm larvae present in the body and their location. If the larvae migrate to the eyes or brain, blindness or death can result, but this is rare.

Adult raccoons may weigh from 10 to 30 pounds. Most daily movements of raccoons are within a relatively small area called a "home range." Males normally have home ranges no larger than 2 to 3 square miles while female ranges do not exceed 1 to 2 square miles. These home ranges also become smaller as winter approaches. During extremely cold winter days, raccoons are not very active. Raccoons do not hibernate during the winter, but may sleep several days during these extremely cold periods. They are nocturnal and solitary except when breeding or caring for their young.

A female with young may attack if cornered, so caution should be exercised if a mother and young are encountered in an attic or other enclosed space. Pet raccoons may also attack humans and therefore should not be kept as pets. Raccoons generally have short life spans. Fifty to seventy percent of all populations consist of raccoons under one year of age.

Raccoons are omnivorous and will eat either plants or animals, depending on what is available. Plant foods may include fruit, vegetables (especially sweet corn), or nuts. Animal foods may include grubs, worms, crickets, grasshoppers, large insects, crayfish, clams, frogs, fish, turtles, bird eggs and nestlings, and small mammals such as squirrels, rats or mice. In urban areas, raccoons may feed on dog or cat food, fruit on trees, garden vegetables, or trash can garbage.

The first step in controlling any wildlife problem is to determine which animal(s) are causing the damage. Evidence of raccoon activity may include tipping over trash cans and scattering trash, tearing up shingles or facia boards to enter an attic or wall space, or plugging chimneys with nest material. Raccoons in a chimney or attic may whine, growl, or make other noises that indicate their presence.

Raccoons may damage gardens or fruit trees, as evidenced by remains of partially eaten fruit under or still on the tree. Raccoons usually pull over cornstalks or pull down ears, then partially husk the ears before eating the corn off the ear. Melons are damaged by digging a small hole in the melon and hollowing out the contents.

Sometimes, the first evidence of raccoons in the yard is

disturbed trash.


Raccoon problems may be alleviated by making the habitat or the area around the site, less favorable to raccoons. Because raccoons have fairly large territories, a neighborhood or community-wide effort may be more successful than isolated control measures in urban areas. Removing potential sources of food, water, and shelter is the first step in eliminating the problem. This includes removing pet food and water during the night and keeping the yard cleaned up and woodpiles stacked neatly. Garbage cans should be tied down to a solid structure so they cannot be overturned, and lids should be tight fitting, tied or weighted down to deny access to garbage.

Excluding raccoons may be the most successful strategy to prevent or eliminate damage to buildings, poultry yards, and gardens.

• Damage to facia boards or shingles may be prevented by denying access to the roof. The removal of tree limbs overhanging the roof will deny access to roofs.

• Access to chimneys may be denied by covering the chimney opening with a heavy metal screen or with a sheet metal cap.

• Damage in poultry yards can usually be reduced by excluding the raccoons from poultry at night. This may be done by moving the poultry into buildings at night and tightly closing all doors and windows and sealing any openings larger than 3 inches in diameter.

• Woven wire fencing alone may not be sufficient to keep raccoons out of gardens or poultry pens. Raccoons will climb, tear a hole, or burrow under most fencing, particularly if ripe sweetcorn or watermelons are available in the garden. If a fence is already present, the addition of a single wire about 8 inches from the fence and 8 inches above the ground electrified with a charger will provide an effective deterrent. Use a charger with a seal of approval from Underwriters Laboratories Inc. (UL). Use warning signs if the area is accessible to children or the public.

• When no other fences are present, two electrified wires, one 6 inches and the other 12 inches above the ground, mounted on insulated stakes or poles will accomplish the same result (Figure 1). A single strand 6 to 8 inches above the ground may be sufficient, but two wires will provide added insurance. The fence needs to be activated only at night.

The use of scare tactics or devices, such as propane cannons that make loud booms, pyrotechnics (fireworks), scarecrows, lights, or dogs, are not effective or practical in controlling raccoons, particularly in urban areas, (not to mention that all of these may disturb your neighbors). Raccoons usually figure out that scare tactics pose no physical threat, and usually ignore them.

If no other control methods are effective, the problem animals may need to be removed from the area. There are no poisons or fumigants currently registered for raccoon control. Humane trapping can be effective at removing the problem animals. Raccoons are relatively easy to catch in traps, but it takes a sturdy trap to hold one. For urban areas and for homeowners with pets, a live or cage-type trap is usually the preferable alternative. Traps should be at least 12 inches wide by 12 inches high by 36 inches long and constructed with heavy materials. The trap may be baited with sardines, fish, meat, or fruit. Baiting with peanut butter on bread or fruit, vanilla extract on bread, or just fruit in an urban area should decrease the likelihood of catching a cat.

Humane traps are the best method to remove

an unwanted raccoon.


The trap should be placed on a sheet of plywood or other hard surface, because raccoons will dig up all the grass or anything in reach after being trapped. Place the trap so that the back is against a tree, wall or other solid object. Lastly, the trap may have to be covered with burlap or a tight wire mesh to prevent animals from reaching through and stealing the bait.

Rats The house mouse (Mus


musculus) and Norway rat (Rattus norvegicus) are two of the most troublesome and damaging rodents in Kentucky. These rodents are called commensal rodents because they live in such close association with humans. (See also, Mice.) Several characteristics of commensal rodents have allowed their populations to flourish. These characteristics include:

• Their ability to survive in a wide variety of climates and habitats; • A varied diet; and • A high rate of reproduction.

Often, homeowners first notice house mice in the winter after the rodents’ fall migration indoors in search of food, warmth, and shelter. I t is extremely difficult to control house mice once they have entered a home or other building. Many people tolerate mice in their homes or businesses because they seem less objectionable than rats. However, mice infest far more structures than do rats and can cause considerable damage.

It is difficult to place an economic value on the damage rodents cause. T he greatest economic loss is not from how much they eat, but what must be thrown out because of damage or contamination. Food, clothing, furniture, books, papers, heirlooms, and many other household items are contaminated by mouse droppings or urine, or damaged by their gnawing. Rodents also gnaw through electrical wires, causing fires or appliance failure. Rats can cause structural damage to buildings through their gnawing or burrowing. Rats can also cause considerable damage to insulation when they burrow and form nests in walls and attics.

Rats and mice also may transmit diseases to humans or livestock. The most notable disease transmitted by mice is salmonellosis, (bacterial food poisoning,) when food is contaminated with infected rodent feces. Rodents may also transmit murine typhus, leptospirosis, trichinosis, ratbite fever, reckettsialpox, lymphocyctic choriomeningitis, and dermatitis.

The Norway rat, often called the brown or sewer rat, is much larger than a house mouse, averaging 7 to 10 ounces. Rats are about 13- to 18-inches long complete with a 6- to 8 1/2-inch tail. They have coarse fur that is generally brown scattered with black on top and a grey to yellowish white belly.

Rats will eat almost anything, including seeds, cereal grains, meats, vegetables, and garbage. Rats are also fond of foods high in fat and protein.

The Norwegian Rat is commonly found in homes in KY.

Keep these foods in mind when choosing bait for snap traps. Rats tend to be more cautious in their feeding habits, preferring certain foods over others. Rats also require water each day when feeding on dry food.

Commensal rodents do not need a large amount of living space. On any given day, rats normally do not travel farther than 100 to 150 feet from their shelter to obtain food and water. For this reason, traps and control devices must be placed in areas where rodent activity is most apparent. Rats are nocturnal (active at night) and prefer to travel along walls and other edges. Keep these traits in mind when positioning your control devices. If your control devices are not initially successful, move them to a different location.

Rats can crawl through an opening 1/2" in diameter. Rats have a vertical leap of more than 36 inches. • Rats can climb vertical pipes of any size if the pipe is within 3 inches of a wall or other supporting

material. • Rats can drop 50 feet without being killed or seriously injured. • Rats have a horizontal leap of more than 8 feet and can reach as far as 13 inches along smooth

vertical walls. • Rats are capable swimmers if they need to be. Rats can swim as far as 1/2 mile. • Rats can run horizontally along insulated electrical wires, small ropes, and the like with ease.

The natural habits of rats give homeowners evidence of rodent activity. The following are some of these “rodent signs”:

• Droppings may be found where rodents travel, near their shelters, or other places rodents frequent. Droppings are usually the first evidence of rodents in a dwelling and are a key indicator of where you should place control devices.

• Tracks, including footprints or tail marks, may be seen on dusty surfaces or in the mud. A tracking patch made of talc or flour can help you determine whether rodents are present.

Rat holes may be found to indicate the rat’s home.

• Urine stains, either wet or dry, will show up under ultraviolet (black) light. Look for this sign along possible travel ways and feeding areas.

• Rodent sounds such as gnawing, clawing, climbing in walls, running in the attic, and various squeaks are common at night.

• Smudge or rub marks can be found on beams, rafters, pipes, walls, or other places frequented by rodents. These marks come from oil and dirt rubbing off rodents’ fur along well traveled routes.

• Runs and burrows can be found next to walls, along fences, next to buildings, and under bushes or debris. Rats use the same routes daily and their feet make a beaten pathway along the ground.

• Gnawing marks can be visible on doors, ledges, in corners, in wall material, or other surfaces where rodents are present.

• Wood chips the consistency of coarse sawdust around baseboards, doors, basement windows and frames, and kitchen cabinets are further evidence of rodents. The size of tooth marks frequently helps distinguish whether rats or mice are the culprits.


Because mice and rats are prolific breeders, it is faster and cheaper to control them before their numbers get too high. To successfully control mice and rats you must “think like a rodent,” keeping in mind the animal facts and biology noted above. Long-term results are best achieved by using the following combined methods:

• Reducing populations, • Sanitation, and • Exclusion.

To reduce rodent populations, you have two non-chemical control options, traps or glue boards. Or, if the problem is too severe, you can contact a pest control expert. Rodenticides are not recommended, as they contain toxic substances.

If signs indicate you do not have a large rodent population, traps are generally preferred over poisons because they are less hazardous to use around children and pets. In addition, because rodents are captured by the trap, they are not as likely to die in walls or other inaccessible areas and create odors. The simple wooden snap trap is easy to use and available at most supermarkets, hardware stores, or farm supply stores. Bait the traps by securing bacon, peanut butter, gum drops, chocolate, or fruit to the trigger with thread or a “twist tie.” For more effective control set in pairs or use traps that have an expanded trigger design. It often helps to leave the traps baited, but unset, until the bait has been taken at least once. Set snap traps perpendicular to the wall with the trigger against the vertical surface.

Another type of trap available at most hardware and farm supply stores is the multiple-catch trap. This device can capture and hold a dozen or more mice before needing to be emptied. These traps are expensive but can be effective, especially when trapping is done on a continual basis. Place multiple-capture traps with the entrance hole parallel to the wall. Use enough traps to make the endeavor short and decisive.

An alternative to the use of traps are glue boards. Glueboards work like flypaper; when a rodent attempts to cross the glueboard, it gets stuck and suffocates. Place glueboards along walls or other areas where rodents frequent. It is not necessary to bait glueboards, although bait can entice rodents onto the board in some situations. Glueboards lose their effectiveness in dusty areas unless covered. Cold temperatures may affect the tackiness of the glue and make the board less effective. If the glue from the board comes into contact with a pet’s fur or child’s skin, it can be removed with mineral or vegetable oil.

Glueboards are an effective, non-chemical control for rats. Remove glue from children and household pets

with mineral or vegetable oil.

Check traps and glueboards every few days and dispose of dead rodents in plastic bags. Remember to wear gloves when handling dead rodents.

Proper sanitation or good housekeeping will help reduce rodent problems, particularly in the case of rats. Because rodents prefer seeds and grains, store these items (including pet foods) in sealed containers. Don’t forget food items that you store in garages or outbuildings. Weed seeds are a favored food of mice; therefore you should remove any weeds growing next to your house or other buildings. While good sanitation will seldom eliminate rodents, poor sanitation is sure to attract rats and mice and will permit them to thrive in greater numbers.



Most buildings in which food is stored or used will support rodents if not rodent-proofed, no matter how good the sanitation. In addition, pay particular attention to eliminating places where rodents can find shelter. If they have few places to rest, hide, or build nests and rear young, they cannot survive in large numbers. Store lumber, firewood, crates, boxes, sacks, gardening equipment, pipes, and other items off the ground so you do not attract rodents. Off-the-ground storage also makes it easier to detect any rodent populations you might. Do not allow garbage, trash, and garden debris to accumulate, and make sure your garbage containers have tight-fitting covers.

Once you have reduced or eliminated a rodent population and have removed the rodents’ food and shelter, the final step in preventing further problems is to “rodent-proof” your property. The most successful—and permanent—form of rodent control is to “build them out.” The best way to control rodents is to prevent their entry. Use IPM practices previously discussed

Skunks Skunks dig to feed on insects, particularly on grubs. Skunks will dig up lawns and gardens searching for the insect larvae. They leave cone-shaped, divot-like holes, three to four inches in diameter and may also turn over larger pieces of sod. Removing their food supply usually causes them to go elsewhere. This includes applying grub controls and removing other possible food sources that initially attract the skunks to your property.

Skunks usually breed in the spring, from February to May. A second mating may occur later, if the skunk did not find a mate, or fails to impregnate. Young are usually born in May or June, with the average litter being 5 to 8 babies. Young are weaned at 8 weeks and typically, stay with the mother until they are 2 to 4 months old. Some juveniles will stay with their mothers or siblings until the following spring. Skunks are usually nocturnal, coming out well after dark.

Skunks are often attracted to residential areas by the availability of food, water and shelter. They can be encouraged to leave by reducing or eliminating these attractants.

Do not leave pet food or water outside at night. Remove all remaining food scraps and water bowls each evening. Store pet food in animal proof containers inside the garage or home;

Pick up trash, and ensure that garbage cans possess tight-fitting lids. Tie trashcans down to prevent tipping or keep them in the garage or other structure until the morning of trash pickup. If kept outside metal trashcans are better that plastic trashcans, as animals can not gnaw through the metal trashcans;

Harvest your garden vegetables as soon as they are ripe. You can install motion-detection lights to discourage midnight feeding by skunks and other animals. A solution of hot pepper and water sprayed on fruits and vegetables still in the garden will effectively deter skunks and other invaders, and is not harmful to the environment;

Skunks causing lawn and turf damage may be encouraged to leave by controlling grubs, worms, and other subsoil insects;

Remove large woodpiles or junk piles to prevent skunks from making a den under them. Store items up off the ground, at least 18 inches. Cover compost piles completely and tightly with a heavy tarp;

Burrows underneath raised decks, porches, and sheds are favorite den sites for skunks. Particularly beneath structures having latticework or heavy landscaping covering the perimeter, which provides perfect cover and protection from predators. You can fence out skunks from these areas by using ½ inch hardware cloth or chicken wire. Dig a trench 6 to 8 inches deep and 8 to 10 inches wide around the base of the deck, porch, or shed. Then attach the top or the hardware cloth or chicken wire to the lower side of the structure with fencing staples and extend it down into the trench and across the bottom of the trench in an "L" away from the base of the structure. Finally, refill the trench. Skunks are very good diggers and will readily dig under improperly installed fencing;

Skunks can invade the home environment and

become pests.

Skunks will also nest in crawlspaces if they can. Be sure all openings are sealed with vents, hardware cloth, or boards. Check these regularly to be sure they are in good repair;

Discourage nesting by placing a nylon stocking filled with mothballs or an ammonia-soaked rag in den sites or burrows. Attach a long string to these items for easy removal. Make sure the animals have vacated before filling in any burrows. Filling in a hole with an animal still inside will cause a horrible, cruel death as well as a repulsive stench. To be sure the skunk has withdrawn from the site, sprinkle a dusting of white flour around the burrow and look for telltale exit paw prints;

Do not leave your pets outdoors at night, especially dogs. Skunks are quite docile and can easily be killed by any dog. If attacked, the skunk will spray your pet, leaving behind a vile odor and another problem for you to deal with in the morning. Keep your pets inside at night;

Do not rely on trapping. All trapped skunks must be euthanized (destroyed); most state health laws do not permit relocation. Trapping is also only a short-term solution. If the environment is right (wood piles, vegetable gardens, sheds, compost piles, pet food, trash, etc.), a new skunk or skunk family will move right in to replace the old one, thus resuming the same old scenario. If you do trap, the device must be a humane type live trap. NO LEG-HOLD TRAPS ARE PERMITTED;

If you encounter a skunk, especially during the day, do not approach or harass the animal. Leave the animal alone, and it should depart, most likely during the evening or night. If the animal remains out in the open during the day for more than a day, it may be ill or injured, and Animal Control should be call immediately. NEVER HANDLE A SICK OR INJURED WILD ANIMAL; ALWAYS CALL FOR PROFESSIONAL ASSISTANCE


; and Be persistent in your weekly efforts to skunk-proof your property. Skunks won’t nest if the

property is undesirable to habitation or the environment is harassing to them.

Snakes Snakes are perhaps the most feared and hated animals in Kentucky. These irrational feelings toward snakes are caused by a lack of understanding and the superstitions handed down from one generation to another. Most people shudder at the very thought of a snake because they do not understand the unknown. Snakes are not mysterious at all, and their colorful, fascinating life histories don’t justify the anxiety many people feel about them.

Of the 33 snake species found in Kentucky, only four are poisonous. These are the Copperhead, Western Cottonmouth (water moccasin), Timber Rattlesnake, and Pygmy Rattlesnake. While venomous snakes should be respected and approached with caution, most snakes a homeowner encounters in an urban environment are harmless and beneficial because they eat mice and other rodents. Table 4 shows the most common kinds of backyard and poisonous snakes found in Kentucky. Several snakes common in rural communities have also been included. Poisonous snakes are highlighted in pink.

Table 4 – Common Backyard and Poisonous Snakes of Kentucky

Name Description Picture Slender & long. Adults typically 36 to 60" in length. Satiny black color. White chin & throat. Similar snakes are the black rat, which has keeled scales on back and black Kingsnake which is glossier, has more scale rows, and has a heavier body. Eats rodents, small birds, lizards, snakes, frogs, and insects.

Black Racer Snake

Small snake. Adults typically 9 to 13" in length. Variable color and pattern from plain brown to gray, dark brown or reddish brown. Some have dark head. Look for double row of small dark spots around a light central stripe. Similar snakes are the earth snake which has no pattern, ringneck and worm snake which have smooth scales. Eats earthworms and slugs. Lives under logs, boards, litter and moist forest habitats.

Brown Snake

Adults typically are around 2' in Copperhead length. Look for darker "hourglass" Snake crossbands on a lighter brown to rust background. Our most common venomous snake. Eats rodents, lizards, large caterpillars and cicadas. Normally somewhat sluggish. When agitated they will vibrate tail & strike. Dangerous although bite is rarely fatal. Lives in a variety of terrestrial habitats.



Name Description Picture Non-poisonous. Heavy, stout bodied. Look for row of light brown, diamond shaped spots on back that are outlined by a dark brown color. Pattern appears net or chain-like. Adults reach 30 to 48". Eats fish and frogs. Like other water snakes it can be aggressive and will bite if harassed.

Diamond-backed Water Snake

Adults reach 1 1/2 to 2' in length. Slender snake with 3 light colored stripes on a black, dark brown, tan or greenish body. Yellowish, greenish or blue-tined belly. Eats earthworms, frogs, toads, salamanders. Common in a variety of habitats.

Garter Snake

Adults range from 7 to 10" in length. No distinctive markings but a somewhat pointed nose. Eats earthworms and soft-bodied invertebrates.

Earthsnake

Color may vary from solid black to mottled brown and black. Stout bodied snake reaching 2' as an adult. Nose is slightly pointed and upturned. Usually three rows of spots with alternating light and dark spots. Often seen around water as this snake eats toads and occasionally a frog. When alarmed will hiss, puff and jerk and flatten their head. If this fails they may "play" dead.

Eastern Hognose Snake



Name Description Picture Two forms occur in Kentucky. The Eastern Red Milk Snake in western Kentucky can be confused with the Scarlet Kingsnake. Snake is marked with a row of brown to red blotches with black borders on a gray to tan background. Belly is white, checkered with black. The red milk snake is similar except the blotches are redder, larger, and fewer, with a whitish to yellow collar. The scarlet snake has a plain belly. Reaches 2 to 3' in length. Eats rodents, birds, lizards and snakes. Milk snakes can often be seen around buildings.

Eastern Milk Snake

Slender snake reaching 3' in length. Dark brown or black back with three bright yellow or white stripes. And a long tail. Eats salamanders, frogs, toads, and small fish. Found near aquatic habitats and associated uplands.

Eastern Ribbon Snake

Very shiny or glossy black with variable amounts of yellow or white crossbands that may resemble a "chain-link" pattern. Often gives rise to a salt and pepper appearance. Adults can reach 3 to 4' in length. Eats snakes, lizards, mice, birds, and eggs. Occurs in a variety of habitats but often found near water. When cornered will vibrate tail, hiss, and strike. Non-poisonous.

Kingsnake



Name Description Picture Look for reddish belly with a prominent row of dark spots on each side. Wetland snake that can be found in backyards in Louisville. Usually found along Ohio River wetland habitats. Eats earthworms and slugs.

Kirtland’s Snake

Adults reach 12" in length. Color varies from brown to rust or gray on top. Look closely for light spots or a center patch on the neck and a lighter stripe down the back. Eats earthworms, slugs, and other invertebrates. Usually found under logs, boards, or other debris.

Northern Red Belly

Coloration can be variable from solid grayish-brown to dark brown or light gray with blotches that can vary in color. Eats rodents, frogs, birds, lizards, and snakes. Likes old fields and brushy spots. Often lives underground in loose soil or rodent burrows.

Prairie Kingsnake



Name Description Picture Adults can reach 6' in length. Coloration is variable but most often is dark gray with darker blotches although they can be almost completely black with indistinguishable blotches. Young almost always are gray with dark blotches. Perhaps one of the most common snakes in Kentucky. Lives in a variety of habitats including old buildings where they hunt for mice. Excellent climber that eats rodents, birds and bird eggs, lizards.

Rat Snake

Adults reach about 1' in length. Black back with yellow, orange or red belly. Cream or yellowish ring around the neck. Very common snake that eats salamanders and earthworms. Usually found under logs, rocks or other debris. Not often seen above ground.

Ringneck Snake

This is an easy snake to identify because it is our only snake with a bright green colored body. Adults reach 2 to 3' in length. Eats spiders, caterpillars, crickets, and other insects. Likes thickets and brush and can be found climbing around branches.

Rough Greensnake



Name Description Picture This is a coral snake mimic. Key identifying feature is the red and pointed nose. Adults reach 14 to 20". Smooth scales. Eats young mice, small snakes, lizards. Seldom seen above ground. Lives in soils and debris suitable for burrowing.

Scarlet Snake

Adults can reach to 5' but these old Timber individuals are rarely seen in Kentucky Rattlesnake any longer. Stout snake with a distinct head. Usually brown in coloration with dark brown or black "chevron" blotches. A highly persecuted snake. Populations are becoming smaller and they should be vigorously protected. New research from the University of Louisville shows these snakes do not travel large distances and remain near their

dens. Eats rodents up to the size of squirrels. Stout bodied snake. Typical adults reach 4' in length and have dark brown crossbands on the neck and forepart of body. Coloration can vary but is lighter between the dark blotches. Our most common water snake, It is often confused with the cottonmouth or water moccasin. Prefers permanent water and can be found around ponds, even in urban habitats. Eats fish, frogs, toads and salamanders. Nasty disposition and will strike and bite if harassed.

Water Snake



Name Description Picture Very heavy body, stout. Head is wider Western than body. Distinct crossband Cotton-pattern of young fades as snake ages mouth and the bands can be difficult to see Snake in adult snakes. Obtain sizes of 30 to 48". Eats fish, frogs, snakes, sirens, birds, and rodents. This is a very aggressive water snake. While they can be confused with non-venomous water snakes, you should beware of any heavy, stout bodied snake in western Kentucky aquatic habitats where the snake does not try to move away. They often "stand their ground" and sometimes gape showing their "cotton" colored mouth. Often seen swimming with their head above water. Adults range up to 2' in length. Only Western rattlesnake in KY with dark round of Pygmy oval blotches. Base color varies from Rattlesnake reddish to brown or gray. Pointed tail with TINY rattle, sometimes barely visible. Only known from Land Between the Lakes. Eats mice, lizards, frogs, and snakes. Found in a variety of habitats, often near water. Rattle sounds like an insect buzz. Adults may reach 1' in length. Color varies from glossy gray to black or brown. Pink belly extends up the sides. Flattened head and short tail. Rarely seen above ground. Eats earthworms, and other soft-bodied insects. Can be found under logs, leaf litter and in loose soil.

Worm Snake

A snake regulates its body temperature by taking heat from or giving off heat to the environment. Because their body temperature is affected by environmental temperatures and varies with surrounding conditions, snakes become inactive during very hot seasons (aestivation) and very cold seasons (hibernation). Snakes may go for several weeks without eating because of frequent periods of inactivity. Because they are cold-blooded, snakes must rely on behavior to regulate their body temperature. During the hot part of the day, snakes move to shaded areas, and on cool days they sun themselves on rocks or in warm open areas. Snakes often seek out paved roads where they are attracted by the heat from the road surface.


Snake bones are very light and highly movable. The lower jaws and skull are connected by a piece of stretchy material (ligament). This allows the snake to open its mouth very wide and move each jaw independently. Thus, a snake can swallow prey much larger than its head by “walking” its mouth around the food from side to side in a forward movement.

Snakes are very specialized animals. Contrary to popular belief, snakes are not slimy. In fact, they feel dry to the touch. The snake’s scales and skin help keep it from losing moisture from its body. Snakes shed their skin and eye covering together. When threatened, many snakes produce a unique scent from musk glands located near the anus. Water snakes smell like skunks, while rat snakes and copperheads smell like cucumbers.

Soon after the temperatures rise during spring, snakes come out of hibernation and mate. Some snakes lay eggs in a damp, protected area where they will hatch in about two months. Other snakes hatch eggs inside the body. Copperheads, rattlesnakes, cottonmouths, garter snakes, and water snakes give birth to live young. If you find snake eggs around your home or garden, there is no cause for concern because they were laid by a harmless snake.

All snakes are predators, and many are very fussy eaters. Ratsnakes (common in Kentucky) eat rats, mice, and chipmunks. Water snakes feed primarily on dead, diseased, or injured fish. King snakes feed on other snakes, mice, young birds, and bird eggs. Some small snakes, like the rough green snake, eat insects, while others (earth snakes and worm snakes) eat earthworms, slugs, and salamanders. Toads are the favorite food of hognose snakes.

When people encounter a snake, they often corner it. Then the snake will hiss loudly, open its mouth in a threatening manner, coil up, and strike at the individual—or bluff by advancing toward the intruder. These behaviors, designed to scare off the intruder, lead to a common misconception that snakes charge or attack people. In most cases, a snake reacts only if it feels threatened. Usually it crawls away if it can reach cover safely. One exception is the male black racer, which may chase after larger animals, including humans, when it is defending its breeding territory. There are no “hoop” snakes—a snake cannot reach around and grab its tail to roll away from predators.

Even non-poisonous snakes can strike if frightened

or cornered.

Snakes like to live in damp, dark, cool places where food is abundant. Likely places around homes to find snakes include: • Firewood stacked directly on the ground. • Old lumber or junk piles. • Gardens and flower beds with heavy mulch. • Untrimmed shrubs and shrubs growing next to a foundation. • Unmowed and unkempt lawns, abandoned lots, and fields with tall vegetation. • Pond and stream banks where there is abundant debris or trash. • Cluttered basements and attics with a rodent, bird, or bat problem. • Feed storage areas in barn hay lofts where rodents may be abundant.


The poisonous snakes in Kentucky have more specialized habitat requirements. Cottonmouths are confined to a few choice wetlands and swamps in western Kentucky. Cottonmouths may be common in swamps, but the number of swamps where they can be found is declining because these wetlands are being converted into agricultural fields.

Pygmy rattlesnakes are rare in Kentucky. These small snakes are sometimes encountered when they cross gravel roads in the evening. Their range is restricted almost entirely to the Land Between the Lakes region.

Timber rattlesnakes prefer sparsely populated forested areas where there are numerous rock outcroppings, rocky slopes, and boulders. At one time, timber rattlesnakes were common throughout Kentucky. Because humans have disturbed much of this snake’s habitat, timber rattlesnakes are becoming uncommon throughout Kentucky and do not occur in the inner Bluegrass region. Killing a rattlesnake is now an unusual occurrence and is considered front-page news in local newspapers.

Copperheads are the most abundant venomous snakes found in Kentucky. They can be found throughout the commonwealth but are rare to absent in the inner Bluegrass Region. Copperheads prefer to live in hilly forested areas with rocky bluffs and ravines. They can also be found along wooded stream borders, old fields, and meadows where they search for rodents. Copperheads cause the majority of poisonous snake bites in Kentucky. Their bites are almost never fatal, and fewer than 10 percent of rattlesnake bites are lethal.

Before deciding to kill a snake in your yard or garden, consider the many benefits of snakes. Snakes are one of nature’s most efficient mousetraps, killing and eating a variety of rodent pests. Although snakes will not eliminate pests, they do help keep their numbers in check. Some harmless snakes (king snakes, milk snakes, and black racers) eat other snakes, including poisonous ones.

Snake venom has been used in developing a variety of human medicines. One type of high blood pressure medicine was developed using information based on chemical secrets contained in snake venom. Researchers are conducting studies using snake poisons in developing treatments for blood and heart problems. Snake venom is also being investigated for controlling some types of harmful bacteria.

It isn’t that snakes are poisonous—it’s that they can be

startling to the average homeowner, like this snake found in a dishwasher.

The only efficient method of discouraging snakes is to modify the environment so they find it unattractive. You can modify the environment by removing the snake’s shelter (hiding places) and its food source (rodents). Lawns and fields that are kept clean and closely mowed are less attractive to snakes than are areas of tall grass, weeds, brush, and junk. Remove other hiding places such as old boards lying on the ground, rock and junk piles, and trash piles. Trim shrubs and bushes so limbs hang no lower than 12 inches from the ground. Stack wood for your fireplace or stove away from your home on a rack (not on the ground) that sits at least 12 inches from the ground.


Cleaning around the yard also removes rodent (favorite snake food) habitat. Other suggestions for reducing a snake’s food source include placing garbage in sealed trash cans (not bags) away from the house. If you feed pets outside, keep all dog and cat food cleaned up after each feeding and store feed so it is unavailable to rodents (steel trash can). To summarize, remove rodents, rodent food and shelter, and all objects that create a damp, cool, dark environment preferred by snakes.

Snakes enter buildings in search of cool, damp, dark areas or places where rodents and insects abound. To prevent these unwanted guests from entering your home, check the foundation for cracks and openings 1/4 inch or larger. Use mortar for poured concrete, concrete block, or brick foundations. Use 1/8-inch hardware cloth or sheet metal to seal holes and cracks in wooden buildings. Seal cracks and openings around windows, doors, electrical pipes, and wiring with caulk. If you have an open septic or sump pump drain outside, cover the opening with 1/4-inch hardware cloth. Be sure to check it periodically to ensure that the wire does not interfere with drainage.

If you have young children and live in an area where poisonous snakes are common, you may want to invest in a snake-proof fence. Snake-proof fences are expensive to construct, so fencing an entire yard is not practical. However, you can enclose a small area where young children play. Snake-proof fences must be constructed of 1/4-inch hardware cloth at least 36 inches wide. The lower six inches must be buried underground, and the fence should be slanted outward at a 30-degree angle. Supporting stakes need to be placed inside the fence. The fence can be made sturdier by attaching wires from the fence to the stakes. All gates must fit tightly; they should open to the inside because of the outward slope of the fence. Be sure to keep grass and weeds around the fence mowed closely to the ground to prevent snakes from using them to crawl over the fence.

Snake fences can be unsightly and expensive, but a good

idea to protect small children and pets during an infestation of poisonous snakes.

Occasionally homeowners will encounter a snake inside the home, usually in a basement or crawl space. Snakes are attracted to these areas by the warmth on cold days and the cool shade on hot days. You can increase your chances of capturing a snake in the basement by placing rumpled, damp cloths covered by a dry cloth in areas where snakes have been seen. You can then remove the whole works or capture the snakes individually and remove them. If you are not afraid of snakes, the best way to remove them is to sweep them into a bucket or large garbage can with a broom.

Homeowners should exercise extreme caution when moving in a crawl space, especially if venomous snakes have been seen in the area. A face bite could be very serious, and even a face-to-face encounter with a racer or rat snake can be an unpleasant experience.

Another very effective method of capturing snakes inside a home or under porches, crawl spaces, or mobile homes is to use a glueboard. These can be purchased in a variety of places such as agriculture supply or hardware stores. Most small snakes can be captured using a single glueboard placed against a wall and away from pipes or other objects a snake could use for leverage to escape. A more elaborate arrangement is necessary to capture larger snakes. This type of glue trap can be made at home with


purchased glueboards. It is constructed of 1/4-inch plywood cut into 16-by-24-inch sections. Drill a 3/4-inch hole in one corner to allow removal of the board by using a hook on the end of a long stick. Fasten two to four glueboards (or use bulk glue) along one side of the plywood board. This type of trap, when placed against a wall, is capable of capturing snakes up to 5 or 6 feet long.

Glueboards should be used only indoors or under structures where children, pets, or other wildlife cannot reach them. The glue is quite messy and hard to remove. Common cooking oil or vegetable oil can be used to remove animals from the glue. Once the unwanted guests have been removed, be sure to close any holes or entrances so the snakes do not return.

Another option is to use the newly developed snake trap. It should be used like a glueboard. Another method of capturing snakes is to use a drift fence with a large 5-gallon bucket for the trap. Use 6-inch aluminum flashing 10 feet long for each of the wings. Dig a hole large enough to bury the bucket at ground level. Fill the bucket about one-third full with water or ethanol. Remember, snakes are an important part of our natural world. The best approach in managing snake problems, where possible, is to leave these animals alone

Squirrels Squirrels can be a real nuisance, especially if you have more than just one or two hanging around the yard. They have a tendency to dig holes in your lawn and flower beds either hiding food in the fall, or looking for food in the winter and early spring. Unfortunately, there's no easy way of ridding your lawn of the pests, except for eliminating whatever their food source happens to be, which is probably a neighbor that overfeeds or improperly feeds the local bird population.

The gray squirrel is the most common squirrel inhabiting over 2/3 of the United States. In general, squirrels come in a variety of colors from pure black to pure white and all shades in between. Squirrels are typically 8"-10" long and 12 to 24 ounces in weight. They are mainly active during the day, and do not hibernate. Typically, they spend long hours in their nest during the cold winter months.

The squirrel's tail plays an important role in communication, locomotion and insulation. Squirrels are extremely vocal. They bark, chatter, scream, and purr. Flashing movements of their tails, stamping their feet and the way they walk are also modes of a squirrel’s communication. Their ideal habitat is a forest filled with oak, beech, and hickory trees which provide food and natural cover.

Squirrels are primarily vegetarians. The Squirrels' natural diet consists of nuts, fruits, berries, mushrooms and the occasional insect. Many suburban backyards offer a similar habitat with an added bonus of bird seed

Squirrels provide amusement for wildlife lovers,

but can cause damage in the lawn and garden.

In early fall, make certain that all possible entry points into your house are tightly secured to prevent them from over-wintering in your home. Squirrels have a tendency to pry open the screen in older gable ventilators. Once inside they can do all sorts of damage including chewing through electrical cables. If you have a squirrel in your attic in the fall, you can count on having a number of baby squirrels in your house come spring.

Prevent squirrels from climbing isolated trees and power poles by encircling them with a 2-foot-wide collar of metal placed about 6 feet off the ground. Attach metal using encircling wires held together with springs to allow for tree growth.


Prevent squirrels from traveling on non-electric guide wires by installing 2-foot sections of lightweight 2- to 3-inch diameter plastic pipe. Slit the pipe lengthwise, spread it open, and place it over the wire. The pipe will rotate on the wire and cause traveling squirrels to tumble. Never touch or modify a wire unless you know it is safe to do so.

Close openings to attics and other parts of buildings but make sure not to lock squirrels inside. They may cause a great deal of damage in their efforts to chew out. Place humane traps inside as a precaution after openings are closed. A squirrel excluder can be improvised by mounting an 18-inch section of 4-inch plastic pipe over an opening. The pipe should point down at a 45o angle. A one-way door can also be used over an opening to let squirrels out and prevent them from returning.

Close openings to buildings with heavy 1/2-inch wire mesh or make other suitable repairs. Custom-designed wire mesh fences topped with electrified wires may effectively keep out squirrels out of gardens or small orchards. Contact your local County Extension agent for advice on installing any electric fence, prior to installation. If you are installing an electric fence near your home, be sure to clearly mark the fence to prevent injury or discomfort to children or others.

Hardware cloth can be used to block openings to prevent

squirrels and other rodents from entering your house.

Trim limbs and trees to 6 to 8 feet away from buildings to prevent squirrels from jumping onto roofs. In backyards where squirrels are causing problems at bird feeders, consider providing an alternative food source. Wire or nail an ear of corn to a tree or wooden fence post away from where the squirrels are causing problems.

Strobe or other lights may temporarily discourage squirrels from entering attics and other enclosed spaces. Never use mothballs or moth crystals as a repellent because the chemicals in these products are carcinogenic to humans and may cause severe distress. These products are also toxic to wildlife, so it is best to leave it at the store. A cat allowed to forage in the attic may discourage squirrels.

If you already have squirrels in the attic or soffits, watch for a couple days to find all of their entrances. Once located, block off all but one using flashing, wire fence or hardware cloth. Then affix a one way door squirrel trap over the final hole, preferably the most used hole. If there is still a squirrel inside, he will have no choice but to leave through the trapped hole. Once the squirrel is caught, you can release him into the yard.

In the bird feeder, safflower seed is very common for attracting wild birds. It is found in many blends and is a favorite of the Cardinals, Chickadees, Mourning Doves and various Finches. It does, however, have a somewhat bitter taste than many squirrels find unfavorable.

Motion activated sprinklers are also a good, environmentally safe method of control. Not only does it chase off squirrels, but deer, raccoons, cats, dogs and Peeping Toms. It does no real damage to any sort of critter and your grass and garden plants appreciate the water.

Nothing works for squirrel removal like live trapping. Purchase a good humane trapper. Peanut butter makes great bait. To keep the mess to a minimum, spread the peanut butter on a cracker or a small hunk of bread before placing it in the trap.



Many squirrel repellents rely on hot peppers such as cayenne, red and chili peppers. Ground white and black pepper is also common. These are frequently advertised as deterrents from forbidden spots. Many other products rely on concentrated predator urine. These products are meant to be sprinkled, sprayed or hung around flower beds and other squirrel free zones. For any squirrel repellent make sure to read the directions carefully and follow all directions as it is sometimes necessary to reapply after a certain amount of time or after a rain.

Please refer to Chapter 11 for insect, mollusk, and arthropod pests.

References for this chapter are listed in Chapter 9.

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