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    INSTRUCTION MANUALGP BEACH BUGGY & GP SUPER BUGGY

    MK 3

    2000

    GP Buggies Manual

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    INSTRUCTION MANUAL FOR

    GP BEACH BUGGY & GP SUPER BUGGY

    Our kits are designed with the home constructor in mind, the quality of build allowing for

    construction time of under 120 hours!Here you will find a complete set of instructions how to turn your donor VW beetle into a head-turning, street legal buggy!

    THE GP BUGGY IS ONE OF THE FEW KIT CARS EXEMPTFROM THE GOVERNMENT S.VTESTIN THE UK!!!

    What you need to do the job

    Choosing a suitable donor VW Beetle

    Stripping the donor VW down to the chassis

    Shortening the chassis *[for SWB GP Beach Buggy only]

    Part A: Removing Components from the rolling chassis

    Part B: Measuring up and cutting the chassis METHOD ONE - DIAGONAL TUNNEL

    Part C: Measuring up and cutting the chassis METHOD TWO - DIAGONAL FLOORPAN

    Part D: Removal of the 400mm section & Welding it back together

    Preparing the chassis

    Mounting your GP body to the chassis

    Fitting optional components

    Final checks and your on the way to an MOT!

    ndex

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    What you need to do the job

    s both GP Buggy Kits are designed for home construction, there are no specialist tools requicomplete your car, except for any VW tools you may need to work on the mechanics of the

    onor vehicle. We would recommend the following:

    OOLSHAYNES manual for the donor VW model

    complete METRIC spanner & socket set, 6 - 19mm36mm Socket (Rear Brake drum nut & flywheel)drill with a selection of HSS drill bitsps, screwdrivers, hacksaw etc

    MIG welder (for shortening/reconditioning chassis)grinder (for tidying up welding/cutting chassis to shorten)

    aw horses, planks and blocks/axle stands/ trolley jack (to support the chassis when shortening)

    chisel, tape measure, protractor & masking tape (for chassis shortening)

    Sabre saw (optional for chassis shortening)

    ARTS, M6 Bolts and Nutsor 5mm plate steel for producing bracketsf-tapping screws

    nd somewhere to do it - access to a pit or ramp helps, but it is not essential- most of ourstomers have done it in their own home garages or on their drives!

    CH 1 - Tools Required

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    Choosing a suitable donor VW Beetle

    ease check the guidance given here to ensure you have a suitable vehicle for your buggy...

    hich Model?

    P kits are designed to fit the torsion bar front suspension chassis of the Type 1 VW Beetle,hich includes all standard models exceptthe 1302, 1302S, 1303 and 1303S. These can still ed, although it involves changing the whole MacPherson strut front end for a new chassis

    ame head to hold the torsion bar front, plus a flat fuel tank. This is certainly worth the extrafort, as this will give you the vastly superior double jointed independent rear suspension (IRr better roadholding.

    hat Age?ny age of Beetle can be used, although a 1961 or later is preferable and best of all is aost-1967 with 12V electrics, ball-joints and 4 stud wheel hubs. This has the benefit ofmponents being more plentiful and also cheaper than those from earlier models. Later 4 st

    ubs have better brakes, plus early 5 stud wide wheels are now difficult to obtain and bandedheels are now illegal!

    onor Chassis or Complete Car?s up to you, as each has its pros and cons! Obviously, starting from a donor car means thatme has to be spent removing the body first, which may then reveal problems not inherantiginally on the chassis. However, as the GP Buggy utilises many parts from the original car,ese are already to hand, plus you will have the opportunity to test various parts of the car e brakes, engine and transmission). A rolling chassis will be cheaper to acquire and allow a

    uicker build time, although several items (i.e. the guages, switches, windscreen wiper assemc.) will have to be purchased seperately. If you intend to use customised items to finish your, rather than re-utilising stock VW items from a donor car, then a rolling chassis is a good

    ption, but starting with a complete donor car gives you the piece of mind of a fully workingehicle beforehand.

    Complete donor car

    The choice isup to you!

    Rolling chassis

    hat should I look for?

    CH 2 - Choosing Donor

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    hether choosing a complete donor car or a rolling chassis and whether it is a wreck or not,wayscheck the following:

    The floorpan, torsion bar and front bulkhead for accident damage/repair, corrosion, cracks, bends and excessive wear in ering.

    The front and rear suspension for bent trailing arms, wheel bearing play, worn ball joints and worn shock absorbers.

    The transaxle for leaks and cracks in the casing.

    The engine for oil leaks, cracks in the crankcase and seizure if it hasn't been run for some time.

    ny repairs should be carried out BEFOREfitting the GP Buggy kit - and if it doubtbout the condition of the donor chassis - or your own ability to correct any defectsen d o n ' t use it!

    CH 2 - Choosing Donor

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    Stripping the donor VW down to the chassis

    REFER TO THE HAYNES MANUAL FOR EXACT GUIDANCE ON REMOVING COMPONENROM YOUR PARTICULAR DONOR MODEL]

    omponentsssassembling the VW Beetle is pretty straightforward, with the following parts needing to bmoved and KEPT SAFELYfor completing your GP Buggy:

    Battery strap and cover.

    The steering column. Start by removing the clamping bolt at the bottom end of the shaft, then remove the 2 bolts and clathe upper end that holds the column to the underside of the dashboard. The whole steering column can then be pulled oumplete. Save the rubber grommets at each end (top one in the shaft and bottom one through the body).

    *Care must be taken so that the column is not bent in any way during removal - than often be a sod to get out and resorting to strong tactics can end up in damage!*

    nternal Instruments - the speedometer, speedometer cable, ignition switch complete, light switch complete, windscreen wotor, assembly and switch complete, fuel gauge and sender cable, rear light units and front indicators which can all be re-o desired in your GP Buggy. Remember to mark up electrical connections!

    Wiring loom complete - if you intend to re-use it. Again, remember to mark up electrical connections! ( W e w o u l d s u g g ew e v e r t h a t a co m p l e t e n ew l o o m i s in s t a l l ed , w h i ch w e c an s u p p l y ) .

    Petrol tank and cap. Keep the 4 retaining bolts for use later.

    Brake reservoir and connecting pipes.

    sassemblynce all the above items have been removed and stored safely, the body is ready for removaom the chassis. The body is simply held on by a series of bolts running around the outside oe floorpans underneath the car and beneath the rear seats. Undo these and keep safely aloth their rectangular washers. Next, remove the 2 x 10mm bolts and rubber pads that secur

    e body to the top of the front axle beam (these are accessable through the inspection hatche rear of the front spare wheel well).

    he body can now be simply lifted off the car - the more people there are to do this the bettebviously, lessen the weight as much as possible by removing the bonnet, deck lid, doors anass first if you have to! After all - you're not gonna need them anymore - and if they're in gndition, you could get some money for them. And there you have it - one VW rolling chassady to fit your GP Buggy body to!

    CH 3 - Stripping Donor Car

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    [ I f y o u a r e b u i l d in g t h e SW B GP Be a ch B u g g y , n o w p r o c ee d t o S ec t io n 4 o n h oSh o r t e n y o u r c h a s si s , o r f o r t h o s e c o n s t r u c t i n g t h e LWB G P Su p e r B u g g y , y o u c a n

    s t r a i g h t o n t o Se c t i o n 5 ,Ch a s s i s p r e p a r a t i

    CH 3 - Stripping Donor Car

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    Undoing the gear selector rod coupling.

    he gear selector rod assembly can now be completely removed from the tunnel, by drawingut through the front access cover.

    -4]Now the main brake line must be removed. Start at the rear, where it joins the 'T' fittine chassis and disconnect it. Then, bend open all the tabs along the left side of the floor tunat keep it in position - from the rear up to the vicinity of the handbrake.

    Bending tabs out of the way to enable removthe brake line.

    he rubber grommets at the rear, where the line goes through the chassis can now be removhe whole line can then be extracted through the hole and gently bent forward out of the waywards the pedals, but don't kink it. ( I f t h e c o n d i t i o n o f t h e b r a k e l in e l o o k s su s p e c t inn y w a y , t h e n e n s u r e i t i s