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INSTRUCTION MANUALGP BEACH BUGGY & GP SUPER BUGGY

MK 3

2000

GP Buggies Manual

le:///F|/1 Websites/GP Buggies/page html/ACROBAT_manual_1.htm [24/03/2000 18:47:19]


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INSTRUCTION MANUAL FOR

GP BEACH BUGGY & GP SUPER BUGGY

Our kits are designed with the home constructor in mind, the quality of build allowing for

construction time of under 120 hours!Here you will find a complete set of instructions how to turn your donor VW beetle into a head-turning, street legal buggy!

THE GP BUGGY IS ONE OF THE FEW KIT CARS EXEMPTFROM THE GOVERNMENT S.VTESTIN THE UK!!!

What you need to do the job

Choosing a suitable donor VW Beetle

Stripping the donor VW down to the chassis

Shortening the chassis *[for SWB GP Beach Buggy only]

Part A: Removing Components from the rolling chassis

Part B: Measuring up and cutting the chassis METHOD ONE - DIAGONAL TUNNEL

Part C: Measuring up and cutting the chassis METHOD TWO - DIAGONAL FLOORPAN

Part D: Removal of the 400mm section & Welding it back together

Preparing the chassis

Mounting your GP body to the chassis

Fitting optional components

Final checks and your on the way to an MOT!

ndex



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What you need to do the job

s both GP Buggy Kits are designed for home construction, there are no specialist tools requicomplete your car, except for any VW tools you may need to work on the mechanics of the

onor vehicle. We would recommend the following:

OOLSHAYNES manual for the donor VW model

complete METRIC spanner & socket set, 6 - 19mm36mm Socket (Rear Brake drum nut & flywheel)drill with a selection of HSS drill bitsps, screwdrivers, hacksaw etc

MIG welder (for shortening/reconditioning chassis)grinder (for tidying up welding/cutting chassis to shorten)

aw horses, planks and blocks/axle stands/ trolley jack (to support the chassis when shortening)

chisel, tape measure, protractor & masking tape (for chassis shortening)

Sabre saw (optional for chassis shortening)

ARTS, M6 Bolts and Nutsor 5mm plate steel for producing bracketsf-tapping screws

nd somewhere to do it - access to a pit or ramp helps, but it is not essential- most of ourstomers have done it in their own home garages or on their drives!

CH 1 - Tools Required



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Choosing a suitable donor VW Beetle

ease check the guidance given here to ensure you have a suitable vehicle for your buggy...

hich Model?

P kits are designed to fit the torsion bar front suspension chassis of the Type 1 VW Beetle,hich includes all standard models exceptthe 1302, 1302S, 1303 and 1303S. These can still ed, although it involves changing the whole MacPherson strut front end for a new chassis

ame head to hold the torsion bar front, plus a flat fuel tank. This is certainly worth the extrafort, as this will give you the vastly superior double jointed independent rear suspension (IRr better roadholding.

hat Age?ny age of Beetle can be used, although a 1961 or later is preferable and best of all is aost-1967 with 12V electrics, ball-joints and 4 stud wheel hubs. This has the benefit ofmponents being more plentiful and also cheaper than those from earlier models. Later 4 st

ubs have better brakes, plus early 5 stud wide wheels are now difficult to obtain and bandedheels are now illegal!

onor Chassis or Complete Car?s up to you, as each has its pros and cons! Obviously, starting from a donor car means thatme has to be spent removing the body first, which may then reveal problems not inherantiginally on the chassis. However, as the GP Buggy utilises many parts from the original car,ese are already to hand, plus you will have the opportunity to test various parts of the car e brakes, engine and transmission). A rolling chassis will be cheaper to acquire and allow a

uicker build time, although several items (i.e. the guages, switches, windscreen wiper assemc.) will have to be purchased seperately. If you intend to use customised items to finish your, rather than re-utilising stock VW items from a donor car, then a rolling chassis is a good

ption, but starting with a complete donor car gives you the piece of mind of a fully workingehicle beforehand.

Complete donor car

The choice isup to you!

Rolling chassis

hat should I look for?

CH 2 - Choosing Donor

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hether choosing a complete donor car or a rolling chassis and whether it is a wreck or not,wayscheck the following:

The floorpan, torsion bar and front bulkhead for accident damage/repair, corrosion, cracks, bends and excessive wear in ering.

The front and rear suspension for bent trailing arms, wheel bearing play, worn ball joints and worn shock absorbers.

The transaxle for leaks and cracks in the casing.

The engine for oil leaks, cracks in the crankcase and seizure if it hasn't been run for some time.

ny repairs should be carried out BEFOREfitting the GP Buggy kit - and if it doubtbout the condition of the donor chassis - or your own ability to correct any defectsen d o n ' t use it!

CH 2 - Choosing Donor



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Stripping the donor VW down to the chassis

REFER TO THE HAYNES MANUAL FOR EXACT GUIDANCE ON REMOVING COMPONENROM YOUR PARTICULAR DONOR MODEL]

omponentsssassembling the VW Beetle is pretty straightforward, with the following parts needing to bmoved and KEPT SAFELYfor completing your GP Buggy:

Battery strap and cover.

The steering column. Start by removing the clamping bolt at the bottom end of the shaft, then remove the 2 bolts and clathe upper end that holds the column to the underside of the dashboard. The whole steering column can then be pulled oumplete. Save the rubber grommets at each end (top one in the shaft and bottom one through the body).

*Care must be taken so that the column is not bent in any way during removal - than often be a sod to get out and resorting to strong tactics can end up in damage!*

nternal Instruments - the speedometer, speedometer cable, ignition switch complete, light switch complete, windscreen wotor, assembly and switch complete, fuel gauge and sender cable, rear light units and front indicators which can all be re-o desired in your GP Buggy. Remember to mark up electrical connections!

Wiring loom complete - if you intend to re-use it. Again, remember to mark up electrical connections! ( W e w o u l d s u g g ew e v e r t h a t a co m p l e t e n ew l o o m i s in s t a l l ed , w h i ch w e c an s u p p l y ) .

Petrol tank and cap. Keep the 4 retaining bolts for use later.

Brake reservoir and connecting pipes.

sassemblynce all the above items have been removed and stored safely, the body is ready for removaom the chassis. The body is simply held on by a series of bolts running around the outside oe floorpans underneath the car and beneath the rear seats. Undo these and keep safely aloth their rectangular washers. Next, remove the 2 x 10mm bolts and rubber pads that secur

e body to the top of the front axle beam (these are accessable through the inspection hatche rear of the front spare wheel well).

he body can now be simply lifted off the car - the more people there are to do this the bettebviously, lessen the weight as much as possible by removing the bonnet, deck lid, doors anass first if you have to! After all - you're not gonna need them anymore - and if they're in gndition, you could get some money for them. And there you have it - one VW rolling chassady to fit your GP Buggy body to!

CH 3 - Stripping Donor Car



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[ I f y o u a r e b u i l d in g t h e SW B GP Be a ch B u g g y , n o w p r o c ee d t o S ec t io n 4 o n h oSh o r t e n y o u r c h a s si s , o r f o r t h o s e c o n s t r u c t i n g t h e LWB G P Su p e r B u g g y , y o u c a n

s t r a i g h t o n t o Se c t i o n 5 ,Ch a s s i s p r e p a r a t i

CH 3 - Stripping Donor Car



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Undoing the gear selector rod coupling.

he gear selector rod assembly can now be completely removed from the tunnel, by drawingut through the front access cover.

-4]Now the main brake line must be removed. Start at the rear, where it joins the 'T' fittine chassis and disconnect it. Then, bend open all the tabs along the left side of the floor tunat keep it in position - from the rear up to the vicinity of the handbrake.

Bending tabs out of the way to enable removthe brake line.

he rubber grommets at the rear, where the line goes through the chassis can now be removhe whole line can then be extracted through the hole and gently bent forward out of the waywards the pedals, but don't kink it. ( I f t h e c o n d i t i o n o f t h e b r a k e l in e l o o k s su s p e c t inn y w a y , t h e n e n s u r e i t i s r e p la c ed . )

-5]The next step is to pull out both the handbrake cables and heat exchanger cables from

ar of the tunnel. If you have trouble locating them through the rear access panel, it can benlargened with a hacksaw, but ensure you do not make the whole bigger than the cover plagood idea is to use the cover as a template, and scribe around it on the tunnel. Then measu

pproximately 15mm in from the line to mark the outline of the metal to be removed, ensurinough is left surrounding the clutch and throttle guide tubes on the passenger side.

CH 4 - Chassis Shortening



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-6]The cable conduits behind the rear access panel now need to be loosened from the chas they exit the rear of the transmission tunnel. They are welded in place, and these welds nbe broken, so they will simply be pushed through when the chassis is shortened. At the sa

me, measure the amount they poke through so you will be able to cut the tubes back to thisngth when you have shortened the chassis.

Break the welds where the cable conduit chanattach to the chassis at the rear.

-7]The 2 jacking points can now be removed from the chassis, either by breaking the weldtting to remove the mounts completely, or by simply hacksawing off the ends in line with tutside edge of the floorpan.

-8] The floorpan gasket can then be stripped off the outer perimeter of the chassis.

-9]Finally, unless you are going to re-use them, the VW seat runners can now be removedom the floorpan. Don't worry about any holes made at this time, as they can be welded upter.

-10]The chassis now needs to be cleaned up as much as possible, in preparation for cuttinhe sound deadening material around the centre tunnel and floorpan has to be removed, toevent it catching fire when cutting and welding up the floorpan. It is best cleaned off using

ood chisel.

T h e r e a r e se v e r a l m e t h o d s av a i la b l e t o sh o r t e n t h e ch a s s is - a n d w e t r u s t t h e 2 g i vh e r e a r e b o t h s i m p l e en o u g h t o f o l lo w o u r g u i d e l i n e s t o - a n d s h o u l d p r o v e t h e l e ad i f f i c u l t t o u n d e r t a k e . T h e y a r e b y n o m e a n s t h e o n l y m e t h o d s , s o f ee l f r e e t o u s e a

o t h e r s t h a t y o u m a y b e f a m i l i a r w i t h .




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Measuring up the chassis & cutting the 400mm section out: METHOD ONE

DIAGONAL CUT TO TUNNEL METHOD

** It must be stressed at this point that only proceed with the cutting of the chassou are confident in your ability to do so. If you are unsure of being able to correctlarry out the procedure, then get an experienced person do it for you - it may bedditional cost, but it will mean that you are left with a usable chassis on which to

omplete your GP Beach Buggy.***

efore you eagerly launch in with the hacksaw, please do remember the GOLDEN RULE OFEASURE TWICE AND CUT ONCE! Also ensure that you are working on a level floor and neart cutting or welding until you are 100% sure of what you are about to do. Spend as muchme and care as possible in measuring so that when you cut there will be no unforseenoblems!

HE SHORTENING DISTANCE IS: 400mm (15 3/4")

CUTTING THE CHASSIS - DIAGONAL

UNNELhe method we have set out here involves cutting straight across the floorpan, then coming ue side of the tunnel at a 30 degree angle BACKWARDS (to the vertical), before going straigross the top of the tunnel and repeating on the other side. This allows for the longest weldea at the strongest point and caters for the taper in the tunnel.

-1] The first measurement to make is 30mm behind the handbrake support bracket on the the tunnel. For accuracy, a thin piece of sheet metal, measuring at least 100mm wide by

00mm long, can be bent around the tunnel to scribe against. Mark a line across the tunnel t

-2] Next, measure 400mm back and scribe a second line across the tunnel. Use masking tamark your lines, with the lines on the outside of each piece of tape(i.e. both pieces o

pe are on the piece to be cut out).




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Ensure your measurements are accurate and the tape is on the inside of the measuremen

-3]Now, take a 30 degree angle down and FORWARDS from each mark and scribe down eade of the tunnel to the floorpan. You can check your accuracy, as of course the 2 marks whe lines meet the floorpan should be 400mm apart as well, on each side. The exact angle

oesn't have to be bang-on 30 degrees, so long as the 2 lines are parallel.

By cutting an angle forwards on the tunnel,stronger join is made, with the front sliding ov

back.

-4] Now scribe 2 parallel lines straight across each floorpan, again ensuring accuracy byecking that the 2 marks are 400mm apart on the outside of each floorpan.




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Shaded section to be removed (not to scale!) -5]Now you can begin to cut - BUT DOUBLE CHECK ALL MEASUREMENTS FIRST!

-6] The first cut is across the top of the tunnel at both front and back marks but THIS MUSE DONE VERY CAREFULLY, SO NOT TO CUT THE CABLE CONDUITS THAT ARE SITUALONG THE TOP OF THE TUNNEL.

When cutting the top of the tunnel, don't go deep to start with - as there are cable condu

underneath!

-7] With the two cuts made, carefully cut along the sides of the tunnel between the two ma

enable the top of the tunnel lid to be lifted off, exposing the cable tubes. However, if thennel top cannot be easily removed, there may be a conduit fastened to the underneath of iis is so, other cuts can be made in the section to be removed, all the while inspecting

nderneath, by carefully prising the lid up until you are able to unfasten the tubes withoutamage.




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Be careful when removing the top of the tunnethe guide conduits are often attached by clips underside of it.

-8]Unless the heat exchangers are to be retained on your buggy, the heater cable guide tun be cut and removed at this point - but do ensure you get the right ones - and not the

andbrake cable guide tubes at the top!

[ NOW PROCEED TO SECT I ON 4 P a r t D Fi n a l Cu t & R em o v i n g t h e 4 0 0 m m s ec t i

/ Measuring up the chassis & cutting the 400mm section out: METHOD TWO

DIAGONAL CUT TO FLOORPAN METHOD

** It must be stressed at this point that only proceed with the cutting of the chassou are confident in your ability to do so. If you are unsure of being able to correctlarry out the procedure, then get an experienced person do it for you - it may bedditional cost, but it will mean that you are left with a usable chassis on which toomplete your GP Beach Buggy.***

efore you eagerly launch in with the hacksaw, please do remember the GOLDEN RULE OFEASURE TWICE AND CUT ONCE! Also ensure that you are working on a level floor and neart cutting or welding until you are 100% sure of what you are about to do. Spend as muchme and care as possible in measuring so that when you cut there will be no unforseenoblems!

HE SHORTENING DISTANCE IS: 400mm (15 3/4")




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CUTTING THE CHASSIS he second method of cutting the chassis is to use DIAGONAL cuts across the floorpan and araight cut across the tunnel. When the 2 halves of the chassis are matched up, a dartmplate is usedto cut out spare metal from the chassis to compensate for where the floor

as a more narrow front section, than the rear end which will be wider - s e e A PPEND I X I A GRAM .)

-1] Using the rear of the four seat tracks as a starting point, scribe a line in a diagonalhevron across the floorpan. To secure accuracy, a piece of thin sheet metal, at least 100de by 350mm long can be bent around the tunnel to scribe against. The lowest portions of

oor should be scribed with the help of a straight piece of wood cut to fit.

Ensure your measurements are accurate whmeasuring up!

-2]Next, make a stick exactly400mm long (be sure the ends are cut square). This will beed to layout the second line across the floorpan. Using the 400mm stick as a measure, plac

ne end even with, and at right angles to, the first line scribed just behind the seat tracks. Atpposite end of the stick, scribe a small mark. Continue doing this from one side of the floorpver the tunnel and to the opposite side.

Ensure the lines are PARALLEL when marking o

diagonal chevron across the floorpan.




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-3]Now, using the sheet metal and the straight wood from the first line, scribe through thearks completing the second line. These two lines 400mm apart, indicate the section to

emoved from your floorpan.(Additonally, there will be two darts taken from the rear cornthe floorpan to accomplish a straight line along each side - s e e A PPEND I X D I AGRAM.)

Shaded section to be removed (not to scale!) -4]Next, cut the lines on the tunnel only, making sure you do not cut any of the controlbes inside. Now, remove this section of the tunnel by cutting along the lower corners betwee previous two cuts. If the tunnel top cannot easily be removed, there may be control tubell fastened to it inside. If this is so, other cuts can be made in the section to be removed, ae while inspecting underneath, by carefully prising the lid up until you are able to unfasten bes without damage.

When cutting the top of the tunnel, don't go deep to start with - as there are cable condu

underneath!




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-5] With the control tubes exposed, you will find that the two tubes nearest the top lead to andbrake. Hacksaw these tubes off, directly behind the handbrake opening, or even with thear of the seat tracks. Sometimes it is necessary to braze these remaining short tubeack onto the bracketjust under the handbrake opening, as they will be loose and inadequbecome handbrake cable guides. By reaching through the enlarged rear access hole,the

andbrake tubes can be cut near the torsion bar housing. (Older models pass under the torsiar housing, and later models pass over the top.)

Be careful when removing the top of the tunnethe guide conduits are often attached by clips

underside of it.

-6]Next, cut the heater cable guide tubes, front and back, as they will no longer be usednless you intend to retain the original heating system in your completed buggy. If you look jside the rear access hole, you will see where the throttle, clutch, and on early models theoke guide tubes, pass through the left side,and are welded to the floorpan. You need to relese, first measuring the distance that the clutch tube protrudes beyond the chassis.When

ome to rewelding - this distance must be the same!When you are happy, cut through elds so the tubes are unfastened from the chassis.

[ NOW PROCEED TO SECT I ON 4 P a r t D Fi n a l Cu t & R em o v i n g t h e 4 0 0 m m s ec t i

/ Removal of the 400mm section & Welding it back together

-1] BEFORE CONTINUING, NOWIS THE TIME TO SUPPORT EACH END OF THEHASSIS, JUST OUTSIDE THE CUT LINES, IN ORDER TO REMOVE THE 400mm SECTIO

-2]Now continue the 2 cuts down the tunnel sides following the lines you have made,but d

ot continue across the floorpan yet!Before these long cuts, the underside of the tunnel has e cut - and don't fall foul of forgetting to do it like many people have in the past! A Hacksawe best tool for this and again make sure you avoid the control conduits!-3] When you are happy with the tunnel bottom cut, continue the cuts from the sides of thennel to the outer edge of the floorpan, either straight or at an angle (depending on whichethod you have used). For safety stop approximately 50mm from the edge to leave

ome support whilst each long cut is made.A sabre saw is ideal for this is you have one n beg/borrow or steal one! Otherwise it's some hard work with a hacksaw or an angle grind




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A sabre saw makes the floorpan cuts a lot easyou can get your hands on one.

-4]NOW SUPPORT THE SECTION TO BE REMOVED BEFORE CONTINUING CUTTINGnally, cut the edges of the floorpan to remove the 400mm section. As you have removed thp of the tunnel, it can be simply dropped out leaving the conduits exposed and undamaged

nd sit back and admire your handiwork! There's no going back now!

he repositioning of the 2 halves can be easily accomplished with a pair of axle stanupporting the rear half of the car and a trolley jack under the front half to move it osition.

-5] Bring the 2 halves of the car together so the front half of the tunnel simply slides over tack half into alignment. If you followed METHOD 1 , The guide conduits, having beenrlier released from the chassis at the rear of the tunnel, will simply move back through thennel and poke out 400mm longer at the back, although they will probably need someone to

uide them at this point. You should now be able to see how much of the rear outer edge corthe floorpan will need to be cut down, due to the chassis being slightly wider on the rearction. If your measurements are accurate the 2 halves will meet with very little grinding or

ammer work to get a perfect fit where the gaps at the outer edge of the floorpan can just beelded up, with spare sheet metal from the cut-out section. If you followed METHOD 2e section D-7] for instructions on using the dart templateto cut out the surpus part of th

oorpan.

-6] Once you are happy, use a few tack welds, about 100mm apart, leaving about 200 mmnwelded on the outside edge of the floorpans. This should hold everything in place, so you ceck alignment, squareness and lengthwise and diagonal measurements, to ensure that you

ave not inadvertently put a twist in the chassis while working. Double-check everything NOWy trial fitting the body to chassis gasket and placing the GP Beach Buggy body tub on top -tll also allow you to accurately shape the outer side of the floorpan correctly at the join line.




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-7] Once you are happy with everything, strengthen the welding by adding additional tackelds between the ones already made. Now is the time to use the dart templateto measureow much metal has to be removed to compensate for the mis-aligning of the floorpan edgese e A PPEND I X D I AGRAM . )

he dart template should be cut out and copied onto light sheet metal. Place your -sheet metmplate with point 'A' on the aft corner of the floorpan, and point 'B' unwelded on the outsid

dge of the floorpan. The template edge 'B-C' should align with the previously cut edge of theoorpan section. Scribe onto the floorpan around the inboard edge of the template from poin

point 'C'. Use a small square to ensure a perpendicular projection down into the deepest a

the floorpan. While maintaining point 'A' swing the 'B-C' end of the template inward until tmplates outside edge 'A-B' aligns itself with the outside edge of the forward section of the

oorpan. Again, scribe around the inboard 'A-B' edge of the template using the small squarehere needed to project downward onto the floorpan. These two scribed lines indicate the dae removed. Remove the dart , which will completely disconnect the rear corner of the floorphen rewelding the rear corners of the floorpan back into position, make sure to align with tont section of the floorpan to both fore and aft, and sideways dimensions.

here will be a small remaining hole to be filled by a piece trimmed from the 400mm section e floorpan, which you have already cut away.

-8]If it's all OK, complete the welding with a further series of tack welds approximately20mm apart along the entire length of the cut. Then complete the welding proper, working fde to side and never in one spot for any length of time, to avoid distortion.

-9]Do not forget the underneath of the tunnel, which is best left to the end, when theassis can be tipped onto its side and rested on the wheels to do this.

-10]From your earlier measurements (see section 6), you should now be able to cut downble conduits protuding at the back down to size, shortening by 400mm. Once this is done,

nduits can all be spot-tacked back onto the chassis at the rear of the tunnel.

-11] All cables and linkages must now be shortened by 400mm before replacement. ( T h e uf a sh o r t e n i n g k i t f o r t h i s i s h i g h l y r e co m m e n d e d - w h i ch w e ca n s u p p l y .) Thecelerator cable is best cut at the exposed end above the transmission, where the terminalock adapter will not interfere with anything.

-12]Shortening of the gear lever linkage tube has to be done extremely carefully, to ensurat the 2 halves are rejoined in perfect alignment. Measure a 4 0 0 m m se ct i on t o b e c u t o ue r e a r s t r a i g h t p o r t i o n o f t h e l i n k a g e t u b e . Make 2 marks 400mm apart, and with the

n a flat surface, scribe a line along the tube and parallel to its axis that bisects the two mark e n s u r e t h e r e i s n o r o t a t i o n w h e n t h e t w o h a l v es a r e r e j o i n e d . Remove the 400mmction with a hacksaw, make certain the line along the side is perfectly re-aligned, then welde 2 halves back together.

-13] Be sure to grease the gearlever and bushing freely when re-installing, remembering thosition of the shift guide plate (see section 2) for the reverse lock out, if you are re-using thock VW gearlever.




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-14]When re-installing the main brake line through the hole in the back of the chassis, ensat it is correctly seated using the grommets and tabs along the floorpan and not kinked in aay.

n d t h e r e y o u g o - o n e s h o r t e n e d c h a s si s - e a sy w a s n ' t i t ?!




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Preparing the chassis

ow that you have your chassis ready to go, it is a good idea to take the opportunity tocondition it before mounting the body. Any parts that are damaged in any way, or are

ven slightly suspect should be REPLACED at this point.This cannot be stressed enoug it is vital to ensure that all moving parts are in a condition to withstand any off-roading abat you may feel inclined to put your buggy to! (And we all know how irresitible that feeling so, with the addition of wide wheels and an uprated engine, then your chassis and workingarts - suspension and braking system - MUST be in good condition.

he most important items to look out for are:

The 3 transaxle rubber mountings - check these are in good condition. If in doubt - replaceem NOW as it's a lot easier with the gearbox already removed! You may wish to considetermarket HEAVY DUTY transaxle strap to go with the mountings - t h i s i s e s p e c i a l

m p o r t a n t o n a s h o r t e n e d c h a s si s t o m i n im i se g e a r b o x m o v e m e n t a n d a ss is t i n co r re a r s e l ec t io n w i t h a n y a f t e r m a r k e t " f a s t " s h i f t e r s . I f y o u i n t e n d t o o f f - r o a d , u p r a t eo u n t i n g s a r e a MUST !

The rubber axle boots - check for leaks and tears - these are easily replaced with thetermarket split type.

The complete braking system - master cylinder, rigid and flexible brake pipes, wheel cylindoes and drums. If you are using the older 5 stud drums, then you may wish to consider theore modern 4 stud ones. Not only are 4 stud wide wheels more readily available (although uld use adapters), but the brake shoes are larger for better braking.

P: On the standard VW Beetle, the wheel cylinders are larger at the front for front-biasedaking. You may wish to swap them to the back to compensate for larger tyres on your off-r

onster!

The rear axle outer oil seals for leakage - check for the tell-tale signs of oil drips on the hustreaks on the inside of the wheel rim. The replacement kits are only about 5 from any V

arage and simple to fit.

The front wheel bearings - inspect and repack with grease.

The front and rear suspension - check for excessive wear and tear, the shock absorbers foaks and worn bushes. If replacing with aftermarket shocks, especially stiffer ones forf-roading, DO bear in mind that your finished GP Buggy will be considerable lighter than aormal car - and if you make the suspension too stiff, it can make for a rather hard ride!

The steering assembly - check for excessive play and correct lubrication. Very often theamper may be worn or leaking, especially if from a particularly high-mileage donor vehicle.

Any holes or damage anywhere on the chassis. Now is the time to weld everything up thatuld possibly need doing, including fitting new seat runners in position if you are relacing thock VW ones.

nce you are content that the rolling chassis is servicable, remove any remaining insulation fe floorpan and tunnel and treat the whole works to a coat of rust-proof paint. We wouldcommend a product such as Hammerite, which although expensive, does do a very good joso comes in spray cans for getting to those awkward areas. Ensure any loose rust is remov

CH 5 - Chassis Preparation



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nd give the chassis a good rub-down before applying, so that there is a firm key for it to adh.

or a truly professional finish, you may wish to have the chassis blasted clean before paintingnd even properly spray painted with a Zinc coating or underbody sealer such as Schutz oraxoil. Some clients decide at this point to reallygo to town by chroming the torsion bar,

ainting parts of the chassis in their final car colour, gold-plating the gearbox and all sorts ofcks.....

h - and don't forget to put the gearbox and engine back in!!!

CH 5 - Chassis Preparation



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Mounting your GP body to the chassis

nally you can get to the fun bit - the actual construction of your GP Buggy, once yoe positive that your chassis is prepared and all unservicable parts have been replaced!

]The new body to chassis gasket can now be fitted to the floorpan, sealed down using aoprietary car body sealant (we would recommend a good quality one such as TIGER SEAL -hich although pretty expensive, sticks to anything!)

] Next, place your GP Buggy body tub on top of the chassis and ensure you have got itrrectly positioned. Using the M8 x 30mm bolts supplied with the Starter Kit, you can now s

olting the body on. Drill 8mm holes up through the holes already in the floorpan, a couple och side to start with to ensure the body is straight. Use the rectangular VW washers

nderneath as before and the large flat washers that come with the kit, above. When you areappy with the first few, continue bolting the body on all the way round. If you find at any poat the original holes in the chassis are beyond the bulkhead of the body tub, then do not usem (this certainly may be the case at the rear of the car) - drill new ones instead. Complete body fitment by again using a sealant all the way around the join - both inside and out.

] The VW petrol tank can now be positioned in the front of the chassis. There are 2 ways tt the tank, so read the whole of this section before proceeding.You will notice that ine GP Buggy, the tank is angled downwards at quite a steep angle - and dependent on the ythe donor vehicle that it came from- i t m a y n o t a c t u a l l y f i t ! This can be overcome by soreful trimming around the edges of the tank opening, but y o u m a y a l s o f in d t h a t i t f o u l se s t e e r i n g g e a r b e l o w , whichever way you turn it round! Don't worry as there are a coupsolutions to this - and (before you ask) - no, it's not a design fault - the tank has to beodified to fit, otherwise the bonnet line could not be kept as it is! Plus, with so many sizes oW Type 1 petrol tanks over the years, it is very difficult to cater for every one!

o, to get your tank to fit - there's only one way to do it, namely "to modify the profile with aallet" (to quote our old instruction manual) - i.e. bashing in the parts that get in the way!heck which way round is the best fit, then looking underneath to see where the steering geaets in the way, you can re-shape the tank to fit. B e fo r e d o i n g t h i s h o w e v e r , a decision me made over the position of the filler neck for the tank. There are 3 basic positions on standW Type 1 tanks:

Pre-1961 tanks have the filler neck in the middle. These are best used as they are, inOSITION 2 (See below).

1961-1967 tanks have the filler neck to the lower left corner (looking forward on the car).hese style of tanks can be used as they are in POSITION 1 or modified for use in POSITION

Post-1967 tanks have the filler neck in the upper right corner (looking forward on the car)hese types will have to be modified to either POSITION 1 or POSITION 2.

OSITION 1

his involves having the filler neck to the lower left-hand corner, sticking through the bonnetext to the headlight. On a 1961-1967 tank, this is where the filler neck already is; on all othey will have to be modified. Trial fit the tank to work out the position needed for the neck tck through the bonnet, then cut out a hole to the full size of the neck plus 6mm. The breatbe on a standard neck will need clipping short - to enable the bonnet to slip over - and then

CH 6 - Mounting the GP Body onto the Chassis



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aled off to prevent petrol leakage. Another breather tube will need fitting to the tank, byilling a hole at the top and making up a tube to run down from the tank. Place the tank in

osition and drill holes to attach the retaining bolts. Check they are correct with a trial fit, buOT tighten them up as the tank will have to be removed again later. Make sure the filler necntred in the hole you have made in the bonnet at this point. A rubber sealing neck can be uhide the metal tube sticking through - either purchased or we have heard of them made u

om axle boots! Either the standard VW filler cap can be used, or an aftermarket chromesembly can be fitted to really look the business! (A company such as Europa in the UK suppwide range of locking chromed filler caps and accessories for fitting.)

OSITION 2

he second position is at the top of the tank, above the sender unit, in the middle of the bonhere is certainly an advantage to this as its elevated position gives an additional couple ofallons capacity. This position involves either having an elongated neck fitted, so that the acter cap is above the bonnet, or having a short one under the bonnet, accessed through a

ummy aircraft-style filler cap attached to the bonnet. The choice is up to you! Whichever waou decide, remove the original filler neck carefully, and fill up the old hole - either by weldining a proprietry petrol tank filler/bonder. The neck can then be used to scribe around on thnk in the position you want, before cutting a hole and then bonding/welding the neck on in

ew position. (Again, a company such as Europa in the UK supplies a wide range of lockingromed filler caps/ aircraft-style filler caps and accessories for fitting.)

* Do take care when working on an old petrol tank - it can be extremely dangerounless the tank has been thoroughly cleaned before any cutting or welding iserformed. We would suggest a rigorous steam cleaning to remove ALL traces of fuefore any modifications are begun. If you are in ANY doubt whatsoever about theafety of working on a petrol tank, seek professional advice or get somebodyxperienced to do it for you **

nally, due to the tank being fitted an angle - and not flat as originally in a VW Beetle, it is aood idea to modify the fuel feeder line from the bottom of the tank to compensate. Simply,nscrew the fitting and remove the original pipe and using some copper fuel pipe, cut a secti

stick through the hole, angled down and bent forwards to the lowest level in the petrol tan

a good idea to braze the fitting to prevent against leakage.

]Once the petrol tank is in position, the brake reservoir can be fitted. This is best positionee front bulkhead of the passenger footwell. Some people prefer to have it on the inside, soey may check levels at a glance, whilst other people will mount it on the outside of the

ulkhead, under the tank. A bracket can be made up from sheet steel, or holes drilled and arge 'jubilee' clip used to hold it in position.

] Now, the body tub can be securely attached to the front of the car, using the 2 stubs on tothe axle beam. In order to do this, 2 'Z' shaped brackets will need making up, which are

mply made out of 4 or 5mm plate steel. With the petrol tank in position, you will be able toeasure the size needed and the clearance required for them to attach to the body tub. Drill

5mm hole in each leg of the bracket to fit them, facing forwards from the axle stubs and usee bolts and rubber washers from the VW chassis for the lower mounts with the petrol tank

olts being used at the top.

] The dashboard can now be fitted to the car. In order to do this, the bonnet must be placedosition - and ENSURE IT IS IN THE CORRECT POSITION- i.e. correctly seated on the bob - before measuring up for the dashboard. In some instances, you may need to trim the

dges of the bonnet to ensure it sits squarely. This can be easily done with the tank out, so tou can view the high spots from underneath. You can mark them, lift off the bonnet and them it. In some cases, you may then find that the petrol tank then fouls on the bonnet panelthis is the case some more mallet modification may be in order!




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he dashboard first has to be attached to the dashboard frame. 2 small cuts will have to beade on the dashboard to allow the frame to be let in, before attaching which is best done uther pop rivets or self tappers, positioned as shown with the tube section along the bottomdge of the dashboard. M a k e su r e y o u g e t t h e f r a m e in t h e c o r r e ct w a y r o u n d - t h e n g l ed f e e t s h o u l d b e p o i n t i n g d o w n w a r d s , w i t h t h e s t r a i g h t s e ct i o n s a t t a c h e d t o t ha s h b o a r d .

ith the bonnet then in the final correct position, offer up the dashboard as tight as possible ark holes in the body tub for fitting. Bolt the dashboard on securely and then remove theonnet section again.

] The next task is to fit the steering column. You should have the complete unit from youronor VW, including the top mounting bracket, which in a Beetle, is connected to the undersithe dashboard. It can still be fitted like this in the GP Buggy, mounting to the underside of

P dashboard, but many people find this too low. The solution then, which most of ourstomers prefer, is to turn the column bracket upside down, so it mounts downwards to theside of the dashboard.

o do this, cut a suitable hole to pass it through the dashboard and one in the front bulkhead

king care to ensure the holes are aligned as the column passes through the body tub. The hthe front body wall should be made large enough to accept the rubber grommet that wastained from the original car. The steering angle can be altered by loosening the 2 x17mm bat hold the steering box to the front axle. Once in position, the top mounting bracket can th

e attached to the dashboard. For added strength, it is a good idea to weld or bond in some etal to the dashboard and dashboard frame, to bolt or bond the mounting bracket to.

hichever way you do it, take some time to measure up and ensure the column will be in therrect position for you! Of course, this may well be dependant on what type of seats you are

oing to fit, so fitting these in position is a sensible solution at this point. Again, with the steelumn in position, you may find that it fouls the fuel tank, which means you'll have to get th

ammer out again!!

on't forget to tighten up the steering box bolts at the end!

] Now that you know the petrol tank is not going to foul anything above or below, it is a gooea to treat it to as coat of rust-proof paint.

] With the bonnet removed, you can now fit all the internal components. Start by fitting thering loom, ensuring it is firmly attached around the body. Put the battery into position, thee instrument gauges and switches can then be put in place, wired up and checked, followede light units front and rear together with the front indicators. Take your time in doing this,aking sure any holes you drill are symmetrical and that your wiring is all connected correctlhe fusebox can be placed anywhere you desire - as long as its accessible! Make sure all the




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rrect electrical connections are then made to the engine, starter and alternator.

rill a small hole through the front body tub to pass the speedometer cable through, going ue petrol tank to the left front wheel hub. Remember that if you're fitting an aftermarket gauhave different sized wheels or tyres from a stock VW Beetle, that not only will the cable en

quire modification, but the guage will need re-calibrating so it shows the correct speed andileage.

he stock VW windscreen washer bottle will need replacing with an electrically pumpedtermarket one, as you won't have a spare tyre on your GP Buggy. Mount these wherever yo

el is suitable! The washer nozzle(s) can be attached to the underside of the bonnet, ensurinere is enough slack in the water tubes to make the connection from the pump to the nozzlehen the bonnet is put back in position. Then, connect up the petrol tank to the central fuel le fuel line to the engine fuel pump and the brake reservoir to the master cylinder.

nally, the windscreen wiper assembly and motor can be fitted. A good idea is to make up aacket to hold the motor, which can be bonded to the underside of the bonnet and hold thehole assembly in place. This has the advantage of easy removal should the bonnet have to moved in future, simply by undoing the electrical connector beforehand. Whether you are-using the stock VW assembly, or fitting an aftermarket one (Mini assemblies are a goodoice, though the Lucas motors for them can be expensive), the positioning is up to you,

ependant on whether you want the arm spindles to be evenly placed on the bonnet or to on

de. If they are to be evenly placed on each side, then the position of the wipers will be one-nd one-down in the park position. If to the side, then both wiper arms will be down whenarked. Due to the smaller windscreen height on the GP, the wiper arms themselves will needplacing (again Mini ones are good value - and even available in Stainless Steel from a comp

uch as Mini Sport).

0]The bonnet can then be fixed in position. To start with, use 2 self tapping screws on eachde at the forward lower end of the front wings - but do not tighten too much at this stage.ext, make sure that the bonnet fits tightly over the dashboard and using 2 M6 x 30mm bolttach it to the dashboard through each side of the bonnet. When drilling the holes for this,a k e su r e t h a t y o u g o t h r o u g h t h e d a sh b o a r d a n d d a sh b o a r d f r a m e . Make sure the be securely fastened - but again not too tight.

he wing piping can then be put in position down each side of the bonnet. Continue drilling aolting the bonnet down the length of the body, from underneath the front wings, working frode to side. Get all the positions correct and then tighten up and you will see the gaps graduose up on each side for a snug fit!

hen complete, don't forget to connect up the electrics to the windscreen motor and the wasbe(s) to the nozzle(s) on the underside of the bonnet.

1]It is now time to fit the windscreen. The laminated glass and rubber come with the kit - ou'll also need some washing up liquid. The rubber seal has a filler strip that fills the grooveake a tight fit - this must be removed before trying to install the glass. To start then, place

reen in position and scribe a line around the edge approximately 6mm larger than the glassut out the excess fibreglass and then install the rubber seal in position. Liberally coat the oudge of the screen with washing up liquid, then offer up the glass from the bottom first and pposition. The amount cut out for the seal should allow enough movement to make this fairsy, so long as you keep the pressure even and are not too heavy handed. A second personsist makes this job a lot easier! With the glass in position, the filler strip can then be replactake up the slack in the rubber to make a watertight seal. Again use lots of washing up liqu

nd the end of a teaspoon handle really helps!

n d t h a t ' s i t - o n e c om p l e t e GP Bu g g y b u i l t - h o w ' s i t f e e l ?!




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Fitting optional components

] ROLL BAR

he GP Buggies supplied roll bar is angled slightly backwards with a 3 point fitment to the

assis. The feet are located on each side utilising the one original hole in the floorpan and oew one that must be drilled. The upper mounting locates through the body onto the rear of tassis. Be sure to use large enough spacers when bolting in.

] GP BUMPERS

he front bumper simply attaches to the front axle tubes using standards 2" exhaust clamps.ar bumper/engine cage fits to the top of the rear shock absorbers and at the bottom to the

earbox mounting bolts.

] HOOD

tting the hood perfectly is never an easy task - so take plenty of time and care in doing so!nyone can fit a hood badly!) The more people there are to assist in this operation, the bett

art by strapping the frame into the inside of the hood using the 4 press-stud flaps. Then,osition the hood onto the body and locate the correct position for the frame to be attached te body. This is an exercise in patience to ensure that the correct position and tension will bhieved. Pull the hood forward to the windscreen to assist in the positioning, and when happill and screw the frame into position.

he best way to attach the hood is by using "Lift the Dot" fixings, consisting of a male studttached to the body) and a female tab plate on the hood itself. In order to ensure an even fe hood should first be attached at the rear of the car. Decide how many fitments you would

the back, measure and space then out evenly in position and fix the male studs onto the bork out where the corresponding female fixings will go on the hood, fit them and attach.

ow, fit the male studs around the windscreen, then pull the hood forward and position themales in order to get an even tension across the length of the hood, making sure it isntralised. The fittings can then be attached down each side. Job Done!

CH 7 - Fitting Optional Components



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Final checks and your on the way to an MOT!

ow the actual build is done, there's still a lot to do before you can grab your MOT and get it e road!

on't forget to check the following items:

Tracking - adjustment will be the same as for the original VW Beetle.

Brakes - ensure you bleed them properly, all fittings are tight and brake shoes are adjuste

Headlights - aligned correctly (easily done using the Haynes manual method).

Tyre Pressures - keep them low for some extra grip!

Electrics - double check all connections and be sure to keep some spare fuses handy asmething is bound to go as your car wears itself in!

our vehicle should now be ready for its MOT test - and all being well you can get it done witobody querying that its no longer a VW Beetle! Unfortunately, although insurance is fairly eand cheap on kit cars!)the problem can come when you have to tax it - when your V5 (Vehegistration document) says "VW 1200 Beetle Saloon" and your insurance certificate says "Veach Buggy"!

this point in time, although the DVLA rules state that as long as you retain the original chand 2 of the other main components (from the suspension, axles, transmission, engine, geareering assembly), then you can retain the original number plate - and are not subject to thVA (Single Vehicle Approval) Test BUT this is actually being enforced to differing degreesepending on your location in the UK and who deals with your paperwork!

here seems to be a real drive on by the DVLA to Q-plate anything they feel isn't an originalctory mass-production vehicle. So, send in your V5 for an update at your peril - you may gede letter back demanding you take your car for a special SVA test to get it re-registered (a

300 cost to YOU - plus 80 re-registration fee!!!!!) Our advice is stick with your current V5 and a sympathetic Post Office to get your tax done!

nd that's it - so we would just like to take this opportunity to wish you many yearhappy motoring in you GP Buggy and we hope to see you buggin' around at a few

events in the future!

CH 8 - Final Checks

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I f y o u h a v e a n y c o m m e n t s o r su g g e s t i o n s o n a n y t h i n g w e h a v e sa id h e r e , d o n ' th e s i t a t e t o g e t i n t o u c h : [email protected]

GP Buggies

16 Pawley Close- Tongham - Farnham - Surrey - GU10 1DR- England

Tel:+44 (0) 468 005111

Fax:+44 (0) 1252 665880

hese instructions are provided by GP Buggies as guidance only to assist customer

constructing their own cars. In no event shall GP Buggies be liable, in any formwhatsoever, for customers either following or failing to follow these instructions

cluding any consequential loss or damage caused as a result. No warranties are mfor any products purchased from GP Buggies in respect of their merchantability an

fitness for any particular purpose.

All Contents GP Buggies:1999, 2000.

Manual - UPDATED 24.03.00 - SRK

CH 8 - Final Checks

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mailto:[email protected]:[email protected]


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Appendix - Dart Template

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Appendix - Dart Template