BOULDERING GUIDE

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Transcript of BOULDERING GUIDE

Written By Dean Lords
GUIDE BOULDERING
a dam bouldering guide 1riley everett rollins on scream, dracula, scream (see page 21).
tABLE Of cONtENts Introduction
middle boulders Circuit Breaker (V?)
mother board Roll With It (V1/2)
the Quarry Hot Lava (V3*)
The Thing that Only Eats Hippies (V5*) Not Cho Cheese (V1)
Cool Ranch (V3) Baby Slab (V0)
Biggy Slabs (V?) Jack in the Crack (V2*)
Through the Never (PROJ) Killing of a Flash Boy (PROJ*)
The Floor is Liquid Nitrogen Heather Slab
Lumber Jill (V1) Lumber Jack (V2/V4*)
Bazooka Joe (V4*) Vendetta (V1)
Sippin’ on Sunshine (V3) Long Black Cadillac (V7*)
Seven Deadly Sins (V4/V5*) Dirty Crack (V?) Baby Steps (V?) Sidewinder (V3)
Hang the DJ (V?) Dinosaur Jr. (V?)
Lily’s Boulder Joel’s Traverse (V3)
Lily’s Man Child (V6*) Sunset Seam (V?)
Simon Says (V4) Lily’s Mantle (V2/V3*)
Gothic Boulder
Brad Pitt Jennifer Aniston (V2*) Angelina Jolie (V2/V3)
Driftwood Boulder
Flat Top Face (V1) Tree Surgeon (V?)
steak Boulder Chad Sr. (V3*)
Mothership Driving Rocketships (V2)
Alien (V?) Honest Abe (V3)
UFO-ology (V2)
Sakura (V2*) Feta (V4)
the chamber Chamber of Secrets (V2/V3)
Chambermaid Secrets (V?) Chambermaid (V8*)
catacombs the crypt
Rocket From the Crypt (V2*)
the lower catacombs San Callisto (V9*)
Open Project Riley Everett Rollins Project
The Coffin Lid (V5)
chick Rocks Little Chick Rock (V0/V2)
Chick Rock North Face (V0) It’s Not Easy Being a Hobbit (V3)
the Big Dam Boulder
Variation Love Nation (V?) Dam Nation (V6*)
Dam the Man (V3*) Just Another Dam Sit Start (V3*)
The Big Dam Pump (V?)
the Walrus The Walrus (V1)
Snake Eyes (V4*) The Walrus & The Carpenter (V2*)
Grace Under Water (V3/V4)
Aromatherapy Justin B. Project
Chocolate Eruption (V2/V3) Savior Faire (V6)
sponsors climbs by rating
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A DAM BOULDERING GUIDE Lower teton River canyon, Idaho Located below the old Teton Dam site near Newdale, Idaho, the Lower Teton River Canyon offers a collection of er- ratic boulders and small walls on the south side of the river that are perfect for bouldering. Early exploration of boul- dering possibilities started in the fall of 2004 wherein several dozen problems throughout the canyon were climbed. Spring 2010 brought a resurgence of in- terest to the canyon and new problems were being established on a daily basis. Increased interest in bouldering and the rising number of boulder problems are the reason this print-out exists.
The landscape in the canyon is unique and full of mystery. Just imagine what 800 billion gallons of water rushing down river in a single episode must have been like. Without this disaster,
the bouldering would not exist. What appears to be a barren wasteland when viewed from the dam at the south rim of the canyon is in fact a recreational para- dise. The more time spent walking the sculpted landscape will open your eyes to the magical environment it truly is.
As for the bouldering itself, you can ex- pect the typical characteristics of Volca- nic Tuff: abrasive and somewhat friable. The stone is generally good, but being composed of volcanic ash, one must expect things to break. All manner of boulder problems exist: short problems, serious highballs, overhanging powerful problems, and crimp-laden steep slabs. Something for everyone can be found at the Dam Boulders!
Directions: From Highway 33 east of Newdale, Idaho, turn north onto the Teton Dam Road (12000 N); signage for the “Teton Dam Site” will be your guide. At the end of the pavement, turn right onto an obvious dirt road. Follow this road along the canyon rim, staying left as it forks, and park near the turnaround point just above the white Bureau of Reclamation gate. This gate blocks driving access down the switchbacks and into the canyon.
Walk down the road past the white gate to the first switchback (a right turn in the road) and continue straight, leaving the road to follow a climber’s trail which passes a power pole to its left. As the
next switchback in the dirt road comes in from the right, continue walking slightly left down the grassy hillside, passing right of the next power pole, then down rocky slabs until you reach the bottom of the canyon just uphill (south) from the big pond. Continue west and within 100 yards, the Quarry will appear on your left.
To reach the Big Dam Boulders (25 minutes from the parking lot), simply walk the dirt road downstream (SW) from the Quarry. It may seem like a burden to walk so far but just remem- ber most things worthwhile require effort! You can always mountain bike the approach.
season: Spring and autumn are best. Summer is usually too hot, but early morning or late evening sessions can be good. Many of the sunny winter days can also provide excellent conditions and will likely offer the best temperatures for those sloper problems.
A few things to consider: Ticks and mosquitoes are a serious problem in the spring and early sum- mer. During the summer months, the boulders are a haven for rattlesnakes. . . BIG ones! Think before you leap! It’s also a good idea to check the tops of the boulders before blindly reaching up for the awaiting fangs of a rattlesnake.
There are a fair number of highball boul- der problems in the Canyon. PLEASE do it right. Come prepared with multiple pads and good spotters. The last thing you want to do is hike out, or hike some- one out of the canyon with a broken ankle, leg, or arm. It’s serious business, so take it seriously. With that being said, a pad for any bouldering is a good idea.
Please use A LOT of chalk. If you can see bare flesh on your palms, you need
more chalk! Without chalk, the holds will quickly grease up, leaving polished and slick stone void of necessary tex- ture. Chalk balls are great for the gym, but don’t do jack for bouldering outside! Fill your bucket or chalk bag with crushed block chalk. Also, brush the holds often with a nylon bristle brush. DON’T USE METAL BRUSHES; you will brush off the very important texture required for gripping slopers.
The canyon is home to many types of recreation: fishing, 4x4 rock crawling, shooting stuff, and on occasion, rag- ing parties. Climbers are not the only recreationalists in the Canyon. Do your part to keep the canyon clean. Pack out your trash even if other canyon visitors do not.
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Difficulty Ratings: The climbs are rated using a “V” scale from V0 to V9, where 0 is the easiest and 9 is the most difficult. Some of the climbs are not rated because they haven’t been climbed enough times to establish a rating. Some climbs are
classified as projects; this means a new climb has been discovered and not yet rated/named.
Recommended climbs: Climbs identified by a star (*) are rec- ommended by the author.
UNDERstANDING syMBOLs
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POWER BOX BOULDERs At the bottom of the switchbacks where the dirt road crosses the north end of the pond are some big electric power boxes. Just south- west from the power boxes are a few boulders. These erratics are the easiest to reach, which made them the subjects of early explo- ration in 2004, yielding some fun problems. There are other easier problems here not mentioned below.
heather lords working the hairdresser on fire at the switcheroo boulder
switcheroo Boulder: 1. bre hammel V? Climb up and right along the left edge of the south face using crimps and the left edge of the boulder.
2. switcheroo V2* Climb the right edge of the south face using the right edge and with crimps/edges on the face. Top out at the apex of the boulder. This corner was the first official boulder problem from ’04, a classic.
3. tweedle dee V4* Low start in the scoop on the east side of the boulder by using a jug at the lip of the scoop. Traverse up and left con- necting with and finishing on #2.
4. hairdresser on Fire V5 This problem is located on the north- east corner of the boulder. Sit start. Pull up to the lip where the overhang turns to slab, then figure out a way onto and up the slab to the top. Good luck!
Middle Boulders: 1. circuit breaker V? Inside the cave-like feature formed by the two overhanging boulders are sev- eral short sit start problems. Try to span the gap from one boulder to the other!
Mother Board:
1. roll with it V1/2 Climb the steep slab on the north side of the boulder with liberal use of the right trending sloping rail system that cuts left to right across the face.
The southern-most erratic of the Power Box Boulders
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thE QUARRy Just southwest of the pond near the base of the dam is a long and tiered hillside resembling a stone quarry. Many of these problems are tall requiring adequate padding for the landings. Slabby to ver- tical and crimpy best describe the bouldering at the Quarry.
diagram of the quarry: see explanation below
1. hot laVa V3* Start right hand in the pocket. Go up with liberal use of the left edge and perhaps a dyno to the lip. Top out.
2.the thing that only eats hippies V5* Located just left of the main Quar- ry on the hill side. Look for an overhang- ing boulder with an obvious man made landing zone below it. Start underneath on the far right side. Pull onto the lip and traverse left to the very apex of the boulder, then mantle out. The big flat top boulder under-neath is off.
3.not cho cheese V1 Climb small crimps on this steep slab.
4. cool ranch V3 Can you figure this one out? Sit start and follow the right edge of the Doritos Chip. Holds on #3 are off.
5. baby slab V0 Hike up the low angle slab.
6. biggy slabs V? Tall slab climb.
7. Jack in the crack V2* Climb the obvious inside corner crack. Not as easy as it looks.
8. through the neVer (proJect) V? Underclings to half pad crimps. Very, very, very difficult! Don’t fall off the left side of the landing zone!
9. killing oF a Flash boy (proJect) V?* Start with the left hand in the thin horizontal crack and either a crimp or, if you can reach it, the pocket with your right hand. Pull up to another shallow pocket, followed by a big move to a slop- ing edge near the lip, then the lip itself. Dam hard for just a few moves!
10. the Floor is liquid nitrogen
11. heather slab
12. lumber Jill V1 A tall one! Follow a line of good holds up the left side of this left facing dihedral. Down climb the slab on the backside of the dihedral.
13. lumber Jack V2 /V4* Sit start for the full V4 value! Follow a line of campus board crimps trending right to left on the face of the di-hedral. SO GOOD!
14. bazooka Joe V4* A classic outside corner. Multiple pads and a few spotters would be a good idea for this one!
15. Vendetta V1 Tall techy face climb. Start on #4 then move right.
16. sippin’ on sunshine V3 Fun slabby face climb to the right of #15. Make sure you pad the tall block on the right side of the landing zone!
17. long black cadillac V7* A hard move into the pocket. A long pull from the pocket to a small edge followed by another long move to a narrow horizontal shelf. Move a bit right and top out. CLASSIC!
18. seVen deadly sins V4/V5* Climb the outside corner to the right of #17 by using crimps to the left and the corner itself. The crack and anything right of the crack is off.
19. dirtycrack
19b. baby steps V? Just right of the Dirty Crack is a slabby face with a protruding shelf near the bottom. Crimps are the name of the game for this dangerous tall problem. *Beware of the shelf if you fall.
20. sidewinder V3 A super fun lip traverse on the right side of the upper most boulder. When viewed from below, this boulder looks like the head of a rattlesnake.
21. hang the dJ V? A fun and unique problem. Climb the wall under-neath the capstone; reach the big hold on the face of the capstone itself, then pull up and right on big holds. Airy!
22. dinosaur Jr V? Chad Witbeck’s slabtastic master- piece. Techy and thin!
jennica hirrlinger climbing “lumber jill” at the quarry
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LILLy’s BOULDER Just down canyon from the Quarry and about twenty feet south of the dirt road is Lilly’s Boulder. It’s the single erratic with a thin seam cutting across its southwest face.
starting up lily’s man child
1. Joel’s traVerse V3 Lip traverse from left to right ending at the big jug on the right corner (start hold for Lilly’s Man-Child). This problem is on the west side of the boulder next to the dirt road.
Additionally, hang from the lip, heel- hook, then try to mantle onto the slab above! A laughable exercise to say the least!
2. lilly’s man-child V6* Start on the big flat-topped west corner hold. Move up and right, travers- ing the top edge/rail of the southwest face. Burly!
3. sunset seam V? Open Project. Start as for #2, but instead of moving up to the top rail, traverse the thin seam cutting across the southwest face.
4. simon says V4 On right side of the southwest face, start with an undercling on the bottom side of the low roof. Pull straight up and follow the right corner of the boulder up to the apex. This was the first problem on Lilly’s in ’04.
5. lilly’s mantle V2/3* Same start as #2, but instead of moving up and left, heel-hook and mantle onto the shelf, then up. A very cool mantle problem!
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GOthIc BOULDER The Gothic Boulder sits high on the hillside directly south of Brad Pit. It can be identified by a huge dark roof with an orange streak on the headwall above. Also visible is the man-made stone landing zone at the base of the boulder.
1. bauhaus V2/3 On the left side of the boulder, climb crimps to big edges on the right side of this left facing wall.
2. bela lugosi V6* THE HIGHBALL of highballs. Bring
multiple pads and spotters. Tricky start. Undercling and toe cam in the back of the roof. Make the span out to the good rail along the lip of the boulder. Follow the rail to the right corner and then go up from there. Take care to not collapse the edge of the landing zone.
BRAD PIt This is a small erratic boulder about 70 yards southwest of Lilly’s on the southern edge of the gravel bar and is easily identified by the small gravel pit underneath the east side of the boulder.
1. JenniFer aniston V2* Sit start down in the Pit and climb out the left side of the overhang using good holds.
2. angelina Jolie V2/3 Start on the far right side of the overhang in a little nook. Traverse the lip moving leftward to connect with #1.
dean lords hanging from the corner of the boulder with chad alldredge spotting him.
jennica hirrlinger is being spotted by heather lords.
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Walk the dirt road southwest from Lilly’s to where the ravine starts on the left side of the road, just before the big cement pipes. Fol- low the ravine south until you reach a large boulder on the east side with driftwood piled up around it.
climbing the tick
DRIftWOOD BOULDER
1. the tick V2/3 On the west side of the boulder. Sit start. Move up and left to a big ledge, then top out.
cEMENt PIPE Just south of the Cement Pipes, across the ravine is a small over- hang with a white, west facing wall to its right.
1. oVerhang
2. the white wall
fLAt tOP Walk west from the Cement Pipe, either on the road or in the ra- vine. High on the hillside is an obvious flat topped boulder. This is an obscure place with a couple of good, easy routes.
1. Flat top leFt V1 Sit start right of the cave. Pull up and over the small overhang on jugs. Continue straight up to the top.
2. Flat top Face V1 Big jugs over a small overhang on the north side (facing the river) of the tier directly below the Flat Top Boulder.
3. tree surgeon V? This is located below the Flat Top Boulder near the edge of the wash. A short problem hidden behind a tree. Start low with the undercling and move up and over the lip using pockets and crimps.
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stEAk BOULDER This is the big boulder a few feet to the east of the Mothership. The west side looks like a big raw steak complete with a nice marbling effect!
MOthERshIP From the Cheese Wedge walk east past the Chamber and follow the big water pipe until it disappears underground. Directly in front of you is the Mothership.
1.chad sr. V3* Climb the right edge of the flat and red west face next to the Mother- ship Boulder. Stand start with a shallow pocket right hand and an edge/pocket/ crack thingy with your left hand. Move up and right to the lip, then up and left along the lip to the top of the boulder.
1. driVing rocketships V2 Climb the southeast corner of the boulder. Sit start using slopers. Pull up and use good edges and a pocket to reach the lip of the boulder.
2. chad’s traVerse V2 Start as for #1 and traverse right, topping out at the apex of the boulder.
3. the mothership V?* This project is located on the un- derside of the huge overhung wall.
4. alien V? This project traverses the right side of the overhang.
5. honest abe V3 Sit start near the bottom right side of the cave. On the bottom lip, start with a mono and a crimp. Go straight up.
6. uFology V2 A short problem with a compres- sion start on the west corner of the boulder.
Just east of the Big Dam Boulder/Chick Rock/Walrus cluster along the base of the hillside is this obvious vertical wedge shaped boul- der.
the cheese wedge climbs
thE chEEsE WEDGE
1. goat cheese V2 Sit start using slanting edges and crimps. Go straight up using similar holds.
2. sakura V2* A classic arête problem! Sit start using crimps, a thin foothold and a heel hook. Tic-tac up crimps on either side of the corner to the jug, then make some big pulls to the top.
3. Feta V4 Sit start using a sloping rail 2’ right of Sakura. Go straight up using edges and slopers. Holds from Sakura are off.
4. the big cheese V6* Same sit start as for Feta, but move up and right across the face to a side pull and big finish move to the lip.
5. corey king (proJect) V? In the gap on the south…