A Guide to Rock Climbing and Bouldering in Ethiopia (2014)

7/25/2019 A Guide to Rock Climbing and Bouldering in Ethiopia (2014)

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A G R C B E (2014)

F I I


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E C

C

E R C B G (2014) ............................................................................................ 1

For Inspiration and Information .................................................................................................................................... 1

I ........................................................................................................................................................ 9

B M C E ..................................................................................................................... 10

G I F P C T E ............................................................................... 11

Logistics ....................................................................................................................................................................... 11

Water .......................................................................................................................................................................... 11

Climbing Eqipment .................................................................................................................................................... 12

General Kit .................................................................................................................................................................. 12

General Medical .......................................................................................................................................................... 12

Wildlife ........................................................................................................................................................................ 12

Weather ...................................................................................................................................................................... 12

Secrit ....................................................................................................................................................................... 12

B M, S E, B R R, ............................................................................... 14

General Information abot Climbing in Bale Montains ............................................................................................ 14

B B .............................................................................................................................................. 15

R C B ......................................................................................................................................... 17

N M Z, S A A, ..................................................................................................... 19

A H, S W A A: .............................................................................................................. 20

A (S E O A A) ...................................................................................................................... 21

B C, H ........................................................................................................................................... 22

6a/b and 5* 6c/7b ....................................................................................................................................................... 22

S (S A A, N A) ....................................................................................... 23

A G (A A), O .............................................................................................................. 24

Poroto Gringo .............................................................................................................................................................. 26

Wendem .................................................................................................................................................................... 27

Asterit Measres ..................................................................................................................................................... 28


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WeiNei Gdei ............................................................................................................................................................. 29

Enkefet ........................................................................................................................................................................ 30

A Spposedl Fn Climb I'll Neer Climb Again .......................................................................................................... 31

Tara Gaga .................................................................................................................................................................... 32

Jegna Almotem ........................................................................................................................................................... 33

Osters Balls ................................................................................................................................................................ 34

Osters Nts ................................................................................................................................................................ 35

Cracked Wheat ............................................................................................................................................................ 36

Dihedral 5.12 on the Upper Wall ................................................................................................................................ 37

Climbing throgh the black streak. P1 5.10 and P2 5.11. ........................................................................................... 37

A G N P: .............................................................................................................. 38

M, W A A (2014): ........................................................................................................... 41

W M, E A A, (2014): ............................................................................................. 42

Ne 'on sight' first ascent in Wchacha, Ma 5th 2014 ............................................................................................. 42

Mabe E2, 6a or 5.10b? .............................................................................................................................................. 42

Wchacha Montain, Ne Rote Potential: .............................................................................................................. 43

G B G, N A A ( E): ................................................................ 44

ENTOTO, N A A, O .......................................................................................................... 45

Dae's Fall & Hena's Secret (Hena Point) 2014 ....................................................................................................... 45

Hena's Secret ............................................................................................................................................................. 46

H, B H, E M, .............................................................................................................. 47

H T, S M, E ...................................................................................................... 48

Q Y, A Z, (B G B D (2012)): .................................................... 48

S G M: ............................................................................................................................. 49

M A S D G, T N 1 ......................................................................................................... 50

Molalit Face ESE, Aferan, D Sp, 200m, (2012): ...................................................................................................... 50

M A S D G, T N 2 ......................................................................................................... 51

Molalit Face ESE, Aferan, D Sp, 200m, (2012): ...................................................................................................... 51

S M .............................................................................................................................................. 52

S, (S R) V L ............................................................................................... 53


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L M, L, (1/2 A & A) ............................................................................ 54

A L R ...................................................................................................................... 55

From Nico Parkinson based on his Horion Ethiopiqe Eped (2011): ....................................................................... 55

Campsite and directions to it: ................................................................................................................................. 55

Where is the climbing in relation to the campsite? ................................................................................................ 55

Food and Water? .................................................................................................................................................... 55

Camp gard? ........................................................................................................................................................... 55

A A, R C M G I 2 (F): .............................................................................. 57

A M E R 2014 ............................................................................................................ 58

Snopsis of Climbing ................................................................................................................................................... 58

Abba Girima Area General Information and Satellite Map ......................................................................................... 58

N C C ........................................................................................................................................... 59

1. Bill and Ben the Floer Pot Men, Seere, 20m ...................................................................................................... 59

2. Danger Mose, HVS 4b, 25m .................................................................................................................................. 59

3. Poddington Peas, 4b, 25m ...................................................................................................................................... 59

4. Btton Moon, E1 5a, 25m ....................................................................................................................................... 59

5. Trapdoor, HVS 5a, 25m ........................................................................................................................................... 59

6. Finger Mose, E1 5b, 25m ...................................................................................................................................... 60

S E B M .............................................................................................................................. 60

1. Welcome to the Jngle ,E3 5c, 30m ........................................................................................................................ 60

2. Staira to Heaen, E1 5b, 30m ............................................................................................................................. 60

C B B S .............................................................................................................. 61

1. Good things.......small packages E2/3 5b, 15m ..................................................................................................... 61

2. The Corner E1 5b, 35m ............................................................................................................................................ 61

T L ................................................................................................................................................ 62

1. Pets Corner, VS 4c, 100m ........................................................................................................................................ 62

1. Jell Shoe Heroes, E1 5a, 150m............................................................................................................................... 63

M T, A, T N 1 .................................................................................................................. 64

Relais Sr Le Ephorbias, TD Inf, 300m (2012): ....................................................................................................... 64

M T, A, T N 2 .................................................................................................................. 65


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Vie Ada, TD, 190m, (2012): ................................................................................................................................. 65

M O, A, T N 1 ........................................................................................................... 66

Timkat, TD/TD Sp, 180m, (2012): .......................................................................................................................... 66

M O T N 2, A ............................................................................................................ 67

Si Gentils, D, 120m, (2012) ...................................................................................................................................... 67

M O, A, T N 3 ......................................................................................................... 68

Presqe 50 ans et presqe totes mes dentsor Depis hier soir jai 2 dents creses! TD, 180m, (2012): ........... 68

S, A M, .............................................................................................................................. 69

Costa Braa, 8a, 850m, (2012): ................................................................................................................................ 69

S, A, P L J: ........................................................................................................................ 69

Soth Crest of loer toer near left side of the main face: 11pitch E1, (2008) ....................................................... 69

A D G S, A, J C................................................................................... 70

S, A, J C ......................................................................................................................... 70

M A, A, M R ................................................................................................................. 71

West Face of Mont Aftera, 5.10 R, 67 pitches, 2008, .......................................................................................... 71

T S V, A, T ...................................................................................................................... 72

L D D V, T,............................................................................................................................... 73

la Directe des Vertacos, 7a.......................................................................................................................................... 73

P D A, A, T ............................................................................................................................. 74

Gie me mone or go home, TD Sp, 200m, (2011)................................................................................................ 74

JA U C A G M M G H, T ................................................................................... 75

Gie me mone or go back home!" TD ..................................................................................................................... 75

C, A ................................................................................................................................................ 76

le Fissre Fioresse, A2 o 7b+ ..................................................................................................................................... 76

Montagne des Anges .................................................................................................................................................. 77

S A M U G A .................................................................................................... 78

E2, anders p shorter sothest side, Sipitch, (200m), LittlejohnSstad, (2007). .............................................. 78

Y G I ............................................................................................................................... 79

Yeha Area Maps .......................................................................................................................................................... 79

M R ..................................................................................................................................................... 81


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1. Throgh the Ee of a Needle, HS 4b, 145m ............................................................................................................ 81

2. Monke Sa, Monke Do, HVS 4c , 120m ............................................................................................................... 81

T C, T C .................................................................................................................................... 82

1. The Gns of Ye Ha, E2 5c, (120m) ........................................................................................................................... 82

1. Toching the Snake, HVS 5a, 155m ........................................................................................................................ 83

R&R C ........................................................................................................................................................... 84

1. Good Night Mr Tom, HVS 5b, 90m. ......................................................................................................................... 84

F B .................................................................................................................................................. 85

Y A, E A, T ......................................................................................................................... 86

Soth West Crack of Toer (10), Bat Cae, E1, 5a, 4b, 4a, 150m, .......................................................................... 86

West Ridge of Toer (11), E1 5a,6a, 110m, (2002), ................................................................................................... 87

East Face of Toer (1): Ethiopian Garden, III+, 100m; So Strong and Brae, E4 6a, 45m; Tree Nt, HVS 5a, 35m ... 87

H ............................................................................................................................................................ 88

Logistics ....................................................................................................................................................................... 88

Climbing ...................................................................................................................................................................... 88

M S H T, G, T ................................................................................... 90

K S, G R O ............................................................................................................ 91

Description .............................................................................................................................................................. 91

K T, G .................................................................................................................................... 92

Telihe ("The Sharp One"), 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a, 375m, (2012), ......................................................................... 92

Description .............................................................................................................................................................. 92

K T ( N T), G M P L J ................................ 94

Sheba Toer, 5.10/5c, 500m, (2005 and 2006) ...................................................................................................... 94

N P S K T, G R .............................................................................. 95

Scared Hamster Tbe Part, 5.10 R/X, 4 pitches, (2012) ....................................................................................... 95

N (AKA K) T, G M, M B ......................................................................... 97

Teadros: Learning the Hard Wa, III, 5.10, 5 Pitches, (2007) ............................................................................... 97

GUHE TOWERS, G, T......................................................................................................................... 98

Magic Smell Poodle, 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII E4 5c PG13, 300m, (2012) ......................................................................... 98

Description .............................................................................................................................................................. 98


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Nico Parkinsons Stor of the Ghe Toer, Gheralta Region, 2012 ......................................................................... 100

Abne Yemata Gh, 5.11, Ghe Toers, Gheralta, Pat Little Johns Accont: ....................................................... 101

T F ( A Y), ........................................................................................................... 102

Sond of Frida, 300m .............................................................................................................................................. 102

Sandstone trns to sand in Gheralta Espen Fadnes retrns to Ethiopia ............................................................ 102

N, N H, T, M R ..................................................................................................... 104

5.10R, 6 pitches, (2008) ............................................................................................................................................ 104

G T A G I, A B (2012).................................................................................... 105

M D L G, T ........................................................................................................................... 106

Pilier Des Americines, TD Sp, 4 pitches, (2012), ................................................................................................ 106

M E, M D L G, T ................................................................................................... 107

Sebre (Notre Chaffer Patient Et Smpat), TD, 140m, (2012), ......................................................................... 107

G T, A D B, G ....................................................................................................... 108

"Bards Can't be Choosers," P1 5.10 +, P2. 5.8 X, P3 5.11+ R, (150m), (2012), .................................................... 108

N W G T, G R ............................................................................................ 109

KK, G M, T ........................................................................................................................ 110

Coma La Vista, 5.8; Dece of Hardts, 5.7; Reading Corner, 5.4; Free Dance, 5.9; Molls Reach, 5.6; The Fall Back,5.6 ............................................................................................................................................................................. 110

K, G M, T, E M .................................................................................................... 111

Arenas Moedias, 7b+/c, 350m, (2012) ............................................................................................................... 111

T K S T, G, 150, (2012) ..................................................................................... 112

G, T, 2012, J C AAC ........................................................................................................ 113

Great Cornholio, 5.10, 3 pitch, (2012) .................................................................................................................. 113

N H, G, T, 2008, I M R .......................................................................... 113

AGAME MASSIF: G C, N M H ........................................................................ 114

N G G, T ...................................................................................................................... 116

E F H T T, N D, T ............................................................................................ 117

Mega Crack, HXS, 5.10/ 5.11, 5 Pitches, (2005+6) b Pat Little John .................................................................... 117

D, T, (P H T) .................................................................................................... 118

We Laigh at Danger, HVS, 5a,4b, *, 100m, and Somehere Else, HVS 4c,4c**, 100m, (2001), B Bookham

Crag Rats ................................................................................................................................................................... 118


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D P, D, N A, B B C R ............................................................................. 119

Green Mamba, E2 (5c)****, 300m andLc In The Sk ith Diamonds, E2(5b), 300m, (2001) ...................... 119

D G, N A .................................................................................................................................... 122

North Bttress, E1, 10 Pitch, 400m, (2006), b Pat Little John/Stee Sstad ........................................................... 122

B A Q N H: 2007, M R, AAC ......................................................... 123

H, 2007, M R, AAC ........................................................................................................................ 123

M W E, N A, (H R) ....................................................................................... 124

Beneath the Path of Princes, E1 5a ....................................................................................................................... 124

The prison of Mt Wehni Ethiopia ........................................................................................................................... 124

F M W T K T, A 2 .............................................................................................. 127

T A A R, N R U O R, 2008 .......................................................................... 129

Gobo Dra ................................................................................................................................................................. 129

Mai Gndi .................................................................................................................................................................. 129

Abba Gerima Cliff ...................................................................................................................................................... 129

Dabba Gba............................................................................................................................................................... 129

Ganderta (Jordan): ................................................................................................................................................. 129

Tahatai Logmte ....................................................................................................................................................... 129

Ra........................................................................................................................................................................... 129

W C, T M, H S, T ....................................................................... 130

W C, H S, A C D ........................................................................... 134

Wasea Cracks, 14/08/2004 ..................................................................................................................................... 134

Wasea Cracks, 2829/08/2004 ................................................................................................................................ 134

Wasea Cracks, 910/10/2004 .................................................................................................................................. 136

Wasea Bolder Field Topo/Map ............................................................................................................................. 138

H W H D R W C C T ............................................................ 139

b Nico Parkinson, ..................................................................................................................................................... 139

M B', B H S M ............................................................................................... 142

T A, K T, N A A ............................................................................................................. 143

M Q, M .................................................................................................................................. 143

O E C W A B: ................................................................................................. 144


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B M C E


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G I F P C T E

Ethiopia is part of the Horn of Africa, it is the oldest African independent contr and it is 4.6 times larger than the

UK . It coers 1.13 million Km, and has the second largest poplation of an African contr.

Ethiopia is a contr of etremes, ith the fertile Omo Valle in the Soth, hich has an aerage annal rainfall of

1134mm, (the Uks 2013 aerage annal rainfall as 1091mm). The Danakil Depression in the North is 125m belo

sea leel and one of the hottest places on earth, hile Ras Dashen (the highest montain in Ethiopia), is 4550m

aboe sea leel (jst 260m belo Mont Blanc).

Addis Ababa, the capital is ab ith ne inestment, epensie hotels and lots of foreign orkers, hile the rral

illagers tend to be poor sbsistence farmers. The aerage male life epectanc is 58 ears of age.

The national food (eaten dail b most Ethiopians) is Injera, and its Ethiopias anser to marmite: torists (knon

locall as Farenji) either loe it or hate it! At times, members of the Ethiopia Rocks team cold be oerheard

comparing it to sor carpet nderla, I hoeer, qite liked it!

In the past 10 ears there has been an increase in the nmber of Ethiopian based rock climbers, and a groing

nmber of climbing and boldering epeditions to Ethiopia b British, American, French, Sedish, and Spanish

teams. As a reslt man ne rotes and bolder problems are being pt p all oer Ethiopia each ear. Despite

mch hard ork and effort b a fe dedicated climbers, the amont of information aailable abot Ethiopian

climbing on the internet is still er time consming to research.

L

All members of the team fle into Addis Ababa airport. We prearranged a ehicle (44) and drier (dobled as a

camp gard/translator, ho spoke Amharic and Tigraan), for the three eeks of or epedition, at a (retrning

cstomers) rate of $150 per da, paing 90% in adance, all inclsie of fel and driers epenses, ith

http://.festethiopia.com/. At the time of or trip, nonnationals ere not permitted to drie in Ethiopia. Cars

are boght at estern prices pls 100% ta, so car hire is not cheap. If o hae plent of time (and some local

langage), then traelling b pblic transport (bses) is plasible and cheap, bt on a limited time schedle, ith

retrn flights to catch, e decided it as not a good se of or time.

We spent one da and night in Addis getting spplies together (food, fel, etc), as e planned to camp for all three

eeks, as e ere nsre hat goods old be aailable once in Ada. Hoeer it transpired that most basic

spplies; rice, frit, egetables etc... ere aailable in the regions larger market tons (althogh the qantit and

ariet ere sometimes limited).

Fest booked the Hotel in Addis, it cost $40/night for big doble ensite rooms ith a table, fridge and sofa.

It takes to das to drie from Addis to Ada, therefore one night in either Dessie or Kombolcha is reqired, one

night as also spent in Ada before driing to or base camp. It is possible to fl to Aksm and hire a drier form

there. Flights are cheaper if boght once in contr.

W

Most illages had local ells, bt these ere locked most of the time and onl open for a fe hors each da, in

addition, these ells can get ct off (een in tons) reqiring longer trips to other ells or, if aailable, prchasingbottled ater. We prified ater ith iodine or a Steripen, hoeer it seemed generall clean and safe to drink,

and no filtering as reqired.


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C E

No climbing eqipment is aailable in contr, bt the tpes of climbing aailable are so aried and plentifl, that

o can pick and choose the rotes o do and the amont of kit o need to take. Dring or trip as a grop e lost

onl a fe nts, and a small amont of tat, as e chose rotes e cold mainl alk off, and lckil didnt retreat off

man rotes. A bolder mat proed er sefl.

G K

We took biodegradable toiletries and ashing p/clothes ash liqids ith s, as ell as all toiletries sch as sn tan

lotion and mosqito repellent (hich old hae been er difficlt to get hold of), and a solar shoer from the UK

hich proed er effectie.

We prchased pans, ashing p bols, bckets to collect ater (inalable) and ctler (er epensie) in Addis,

bt cold hae boght pans in the larger market tons. We took mltifel stoes ot, and boght a plastic

container of fel once there. The fel as dirt and didnt brn ell.

G M

Adice aried abot hether anti malarial drgs ere reqired or not, most of the grop took them and ore doses

of DEET, bt the realit as e onl sa mosqitoes on the jorne from Addis to the North, bt not reall in the

climbing areas, and beteen s got onl a fe bites.

It old definitel be orth haing a fll epedition first aid kit ith o at base camp inclding antibiotics,

painkillers etc. As a hospital ma be a long a aa, and illeqipped. For eample, it as the case that (ot of the

hole contr) there as onl one embass in Addis hich held rabies medication for those ho had been bitten.

Be aare, that the locals ma come p and ask o for medical spplies hile o are there. In general or ie as

that it as best to offer basic adice that the cold se again in the ftre., A common complaint as conjnctiitis,

e sggested the bathe their ee in (cooled) boiled ater and salt, and adise them not to rb or toch their ees,or others if the had been in contact ith the infected area, before ashing their hands. Giing ot drgs (as non

trained people) ma case more problems and perpetate the isses of stone throing in the ftre etc.

W

While in Ethiopia e did come across scorpions and er large spiders in the campsite, and some eidence of snakes

and monkes enrote. It is orth making sre o are making enogh noise to scare aa the snakes on crags

before o arrie, as there are poisonos arieties. There are dogs in the cities and contrside, e did come across

a nmber of dogs rnning ild hen getting to and from climbing areas, most looked qite health thogh.

W

Whilst in Northern Ethiopia e eperienced jst one afternoon of rain, lckil it started on or retrn from the crag.

Temperatreise, e ere earing light fleeces and indproofs earl mornings, eenings and nights (and

sometimes at shad crags in the da). Dring the da temperatres generall rose qite high, and shorts and t shirts

ere all that ere needed. Often it as too hot to climb in the midda sn, so e ent to crags in the shade, or left

at first light to climb in the cooler morning temperatres. It as chill at night, and most people ere glad of their 3

season sleeping bags hile camping.

S

It is orth haing a camp gard, althogh o are sre to be able to pick one p/acqire a selfappointed one locall.

There are greater secrit fears (b locals) in Yeha, as it is closer to the Eritrean border, althogh e personall sa


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B M, S E, B R R,

G I C B M

E F:

The rles for the Bale National Park are that o mst hire a gide in order to enter the park and o mst pa the

park entr fees. Ther prices for Entr to Bale Nation Park are as follos (as per 04/2014):

20 birr per da per ehicle

40 birr per da for a tent90 birr per person

300 350 birr per da for a gide (althogh it ma cost more if o ant the gide to sta oernight, as o ma

hae to pa more for horses, assistants to look after the horses and mabe een a camp cook to proide food for

the gide? These are things o ma be able to negotiate on the da.)

W:

Rain falls most das from Ma ntil September and the montains are dramaticall cloaked in mist and clod.

Hoeer, Ma throgh Jl is a pleasant time to isit and despite the freqent afternoon shoers, the das are

arm and snn.

From October to April, das are snn and night skies are filled ith stars.

Jne is the best time for spring floers; redhot pokers coer the hillside ith their flamecolored egetation.The best time for trekking is from October to April. There are often frosts at night, and one ebsite sggests that the

aerage temperatre is 5 degrees C.

H B:

http://balemontains.org/pcontent/ploads/2013/11/baletraelgidebookeb.pdf

http://bradtethiopiapdate.ordpress.com/categor/balemontains/

TB T R B:Qick resme of a short eploring trip in Bale Montain National park. To of s hae a 6 das alking trip in Bale

Montain. We didn't take an horses bt a la gide and a backpack (The gide is complsor inside the park). We

alked from Dinsho to the Sanetti Campsite ith oernight campsite in Raf at 4000 meter high (3 das alk in

impressie landscape from Dinsho. Neertheless a 4 hors alk is possible from the sanetti campsite hich cold be

reach b car (hitchhiking is possible). Here is the most impressie bolder chaos, bt there are bolder problems all

oer the entire park, inclding hge potential for single pitch trad climbing rotes all oer the park too. In fact, all the

a from Dinsho o follo 2050m high cliffs, and most oer alles hae similar, easil reached crags. There is also

abndant ildlife and astonding ies.

https://.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10152319634663390&set=pcb.10152338710251271&tpe=1&theater

B E B:On the other hand, there is a ton more high qalit climbing otside the parks. In fact from hat I'e seen so far

(hich isn't too mch) the rock is mch more accessible and has better qalit otside the Bale Park at least.

https://.facebook.com/grops/119822356270/10152340612471271/?notif_t=grop_comment_repl

https://.facebook.com/bernde.emmerich?fref=fi


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B B

C G, 2013

Bale boldering ideo: http://.otbe.com/atch?=mbI0rMHbWIs

boldering part a beteen Raf and Rira: http://27crags.com/crags/balemontainsraf

Topos: http://27crags.com/crags/balemontainsraf/topos/paradoofaccessabilit

Bale Montains ebpage: http://balemontains.org/

http://carlgranlnd.blogspot.co.k/2013/01/ethiopia.htmlor http://carlgranlnd.blogspot.co.k/2013/11/the

climbinggidetoethiopiainpdf.html

http://climbing.iloooe.it/spot/balemontainsnationalpark7587?image=34196

https://.facebook.com/grops/119822356270/permalink/10151379151021271/photos

One eek has past since I came back to the order in seden. I'e been to Ethiopia for 2,5 eeks on a climbing

epedition ith Adam Herring and m brother Johannes. Or plan as to eplore the Sanetti platea in balemontain national park for potential boldering bt also tradclimbing.

The Sanetti platea has a section called Raf hich is a big laa flo that has sept oer the Sanetti platea and this

as also the area ere e staed for 12 das and climbed and brshed bolders non stop.

The area is at least a 23 sqare kilometer ocean of blocks beteen 130m high. And alot of the taller blocks has the

potential to hose some er spectaclar sport climbing pitches :).

Adam as the initiatie holder of this trip in the first place since he had been to Ethiopia man times before. Three

ears prior to or epedition, Adam made his first trip to Bale montains to trek in the Harrena forests. Dring this

trek he stbbled pon a bolder and as all climbers kno o can't jst lk b a bolder ithot making sre that

there is no potential a p. It's not a hindrance for a tre climbing pioneer een thogh the bolder might be small

and the potential line so contried that o need to dig a big hole in the grond onl to find a defined lo sit start.

Of corse o need to dig this hole becase establishing a pre mantle problem is an eil inention of the deil and

those ho adocates those tps of bolders are non reliable and minions of the eil poers.

Hoeer, In Adams head the seed as planted and he ent home ith the optimistic thoght that "

". He started searching on the internet and on google earth and soon fond pictres on

big laa flos that sept along the Sanetti plate that seemd to be hosing bolders in nimaginable qantities.

In the atmn of 2012 Adam shoed me some pictres of the area and it didn't take me long time to decide to tag

along. Emil had alread decided to come and soon m brother also jmped on the train.

The reslt after the trip as abot 60 ne bolders beteen 5a and 7c, and considering the trad climbing e are

still er optimistic een thogh e didn't anthing stnning. The main reason for this as that the rock qalit

tended too differ qite a bit. Or scoting ith binoclars kept s ith an optimistic felling for trad climbing on som

big alls in the distance, bt all those FAs are still p or grabs :).


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R C B

Abot 3 pitches, 4000 meters aboe sea leel, potential of rotes, more than 50

Some rotes hae alread been completed here.

https://.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10202872175996275&set=gm.10152159563251271&tpe=1&theater

N L E R/P, B H N R P

Photo by J H Ibsen: http://.panoramio.com/photo/66172398?sorce=api&referrer=kh.google.com

Other photos ith Bale crags in the backgrond!

http://.panoramio.com/photo/18050965?sorce=api&referrer=kh.google.com





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N E R/P, B H N R P

N M Z, S A A,

This looked like a prett cool crag to check ot sometime if e are p for an adentre. It is located on the

a to Mt. Zqalla (8.68913 N 38.92366 E). The google earth image is looking sothest.


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20

N E R/P, B H N R P

A H, S W A A:


This place as a famos Italian arm otpost oerlooking the Gibe rier bridge. After the Italians left, the art of

roasting chicken remained (arrosto). The place is a faorite lnchtime pitstop for man lorr driers going to

Djimmah from Addis Ababa. A hole chicken comes ith spic 'aae' sace and injera bread, costs o anherebeteen 50 and 80 birr. M faorite is the garlic roasted one, so crisp it melts in or moth... .

If o don't mind going don a little frther past Welkite on the Djimmah road, o cross the Gibe rier and get to a

ton called Abelti. There is a point hill ith the same name that hasn't been eplored et. Abelti also has the best

arrosto chicken in the orld!


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23

S (S A A, N A)

Some nice bolders ot near Shashamene. Complete ith monkes, hraes and bemsed locals.

Photo and ords b And M Gra

https://.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10154346901365567&set=pcb.10152577467571271&tpe=1&theater


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NB: recentl, children hae been throing large rocks off the top of this crag at the climbers. It ma be best to aoid

this crag ntil some local climbers hae had some talks ith the local illage elders.


A G (A A): Crimpin on the basalt!


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26

P G

5.10 6 20 VII E2 5 PG13

International: Africa: Ethiopia: Armora Gedel (Addis Ababa)

FA: N

N R:Y

T: S

C: 5.10 6 20 VII E2 5

L: 1 , 75'

D

Climb starts directl nder the first bolt. Climb p to a ledge and reach for positie slopers. Clip the first bolt from

the ledge if o can. Pll on the left hand sloper to the jgs aboe. The second bolt is far from the first bolt ith

possible TCU (cam 0.51) placement in beteen the to bolts. The middle of the rote is the most fn and the

reason o ant to tr this climb. The ertical basalt is a a laa flo ith shallo and deep pockets as ell as

horiontal and ertical ledges. Green and ello lichen paints mch of the all making it a pschedelic pmp!

L

Look for a series of finger cracks ith lots of grass plants groing ot of them on a slab to the far left of Armora

Gedel. Poroto Gringo starts a bit to the left of these cracks. Yo can't miss the first bolt on a lip aboe a small alcoe.

P

5 bolts and 1 possible TCU placement.

2 bolt anchor ith chains

P G: Poroto Gringo


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29

WN G

5.11 6+ 23 VIII E4 5


FA: N

T: T, S

C:5.11 6+ 23 VIII E4 5

L: 1 , 90'

D

This rote as born ot of frstration hen I coldn't get p the left side of this magnificent pillar. I then tried the

right side and WeiNei GDei as born! There is another 2 bolt anchor in the middle of the pillar that cold be

another rote if somebod ere interested in tring to get p the left side of the pillar.

WeiNei Gde starts in the middle of the pillar. There are some eas moes of balance throgh the first to bolts.

The 3rd and 4th bolt go oer a part of the all that is a bit choss bt ith enogh solid holds to get o to the net

head all.

Place a .75 cam aboe the forth bolt in a horiontal crack.Then moe p and slightl right toards the nose aboe.

Tr the nose direct or moe arond to the right into the large dihedral and step ot on the nose. The final 23 moes

are tiring and perhaps the most difficlt, bt ell protected.

Weinei GDei is a common epression in Amharic that means something like 'jmpin' jess on a pogostick'

L

The rote is located to the left of Enkefet and to the right of the Poroto Gringo all.

P

9 bolts, 1 gear placement (.75 1 tc)

2 bolt anchor ith qicklinks


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E

5.11+ 7 24 VIII E4 6


FA: D S

T: S

C:5.11+ 7 24 VIII E4 6

L: 1 , 90'

D

Face climbing p the center of a robst colmn of aried basalt tetres. Ten bolts protect the leader and are spaced

ot hile protecting the all's hardest moes. The first tothirds of climbing is sstained 5.10+/.11 climbing hile

the last section before the last bolt featres hard 5.11+ moes oer 56 meters of sloping, small side plls and

crimpers on hard basalt. Fn climbing ith to ledges for natral rests to attack the Enkefet ith Ethiopian poer!

Enkefet means 'obstacle' in Amharic.

L

This climb goes p the middle of the face of a large colmn to the left of Tara Gaga (the obios and fn corner

crack). The first bolt is abot 4 meters off the grond belo a dice roof.

P

10 qickdras and to bolt anchors at the top ith qicklinks.

Note: Climbers can reach the anchors of Enkefet from Tara Gara b climbing a small 3 meter section of 5.7 to set pa top rope.

E: In the second section of Enkefet.


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A S F C I' N C A

5.11 6+ 23 VIII E4 5


FA: ??

T: TR

C:5.11 6+ 23 VIII E4 5

L: 80'

D

This line rns directl p the face belo hte Tara Gaga chains and doesnt se the corner crack. Unfortnatel, the

second section of the climb is hard and er fragile making it difficlt to find solid holds. There is a small pocket that

o can reach b standing on the ledge of grass and crank from there!

The middle section gets easier and the top section is 5.10+, bt mostl becase of dirt holds and sloping pockets.

One da, somebod ma ant to bolt this line. Bt hopefll the name ill not change!

L

This line is located to the left of Taragaga and to the right of Enkefet. Use the grass ramp to get a good position for

the first section of climbing.

P

Toprope onl. Uses the same anchors as the trad line 'Taragaga' net door.


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T G

5.8+ 5 16 VI HVS 4


FA: N

T: T

C:5.8+ 5 16 VI HVS 4

L: 1 , 75'

D

The line climbs an obios ramp p to the right some 3 or 4 meters aboe the grond. There is a flake to place

protection. Then climb throgh the cr (hich has thin protection) to a perfect fistcrack aboe and then to a large

ledge ith lots of grass and dirt. Here the corner starts and protection is abndant for all sies of material.

There are still a cople big grass clmps hanging on the cliff that ill hopefll one da disappear proiding a sperb

crack for beginner and intermediate trad climbers.

L

This classic rote starts to the left of the big tree in the middle of the crag and goes p to an obios corner.

P

Carr a fll rack.

2 bolt anchors ith chains.

T G: Tara Gaga Toproper


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J A

5.10+ 6+ 21 VII+ E3 5


FA: N

T: T, S

C:5.10+ 6+ 21 VII+ E3 5

L: 90'

D

This climb starts to the right of the big tree at the base of Tara Gaga. There is an obios finger crack (or first piece

of pro) in a sea of orange lichen. Gain a ledge and o ill see the climb's first bolt. Place 2 or 3 pieces throghot

the net 1520 feet goes oer steep, darker basalt ith aesome formations and horiontal edges. There are some

bolts and then the roof cr. Pll oer the roof onto the harder, smoother orange basalt colmn. Three more bolts

and then the anchors.

Jegna Almotem means "heroes don't die" in local Amharic, and as often heard hen the last primer minister Meles

Zenai passed aa.

L

Left of Osters Balls, Right of the tree belo the Tara Gaga crack.

P

Carr 9 qickdras, small cams and nts.

To bolt anchors ith qicklinks.

J A: Leading, a fe feet belo cr roof.


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O B

5.10 6 20 VII E2 5


FA: ??

T: TR

C:5.10 6 20 VII E2 5

L: 1 , 90'

D

After leading Osters Ntshich starts a bit to the right of Osters Balls, climbers can toprope this line hich goes

direct to the first pitch anchors of Osters Nts. The line goes oer a simple bolder problem, then throgh popcorn

tetre basalt, and finall to steeperthanertical all ith big holds.

L

This line rns direct to the first pitch anchors of Osters Nts. Climbers can then contine to the 2nd pitch of Osters

Ntsif the ant.

P

Toprope onl.

Shares the chains ith Osters Nts.


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O N

5.9+ 5 17 VI E1 5


FA: N

T: T

C:5.9+ 5 17 VI E1 5

L: 2 , 180'

S: A (M S)

D

Armora Gedel's most poplat climb. Climbers need a fll rack for Oster Nts. The climb starts 2 meters left of

Cracked Wheat and angles diagonal left throgh a series of ertical crack sstems. Thogh the foto shos a lot of

plants, there reall aren't an plans on the climbing line itself. It has been cleaned b the people ho pt p the line.

After a small blge, nearl 20m from the grond, the climber plls oer the last blge to to bolts and qicklinks on

the pper headall. It ma seem like there isn't enogh pro, bt there is!

The first pitch is sstained 5.9 climbing ith no serios cr moe. It is sstained and has plent of protection on

high qalit basalt.

The second pitch follos an obios finger crack on climber's right that leads to a een more obios, crescent

shaped crack that is sometimes flaring, sometimes perfect hand crack.

Don't miss the 2nd pitch as it's mch better than the 1st and er straight forard, crackdelightfl climbing. There

are face holds, crack holds and aries sies of pro throghot.

The name comes from a Noregian climber ho first attempted this line onsight. At some point belo the first

anchors, he left a cople nts and came don. Before being cleaned, the line as er hair ith plants and dirt.

L

Look for a rightfacing crack that angles p and to the left. At the base of the rote to the left, there is a small tree.

P: Fll rack. 2 bolt anchors ith chains.

O N: From the top of the 2nd pitch!


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D 5.12 U W

With Elad Omer and Nico Parkinson

https://.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10152906704134617&set=pcb.10152851184851271&tpe=1

&theater

C . P1 5.10 P2 5.11.

With Elad Omer and Nico Parkinson

https://.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10152906704449617&set=pcb.10152851184851271&tpe=1

&theater


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A G N P:

In Ethiopia, there is a lot of rock. Aside from the priests, not man people hae climbed it. For most, the

histor of modern sport climbing starts in 2008 ith Vertical Ethiopia, a pictre book abot a grop of

omen jamming their a p cracks in the Gheralta Valle. Hoeer, before that, in 2005 Belgian climbers

had deeloped a trad limestone crag called Wasea in the Tembien Montains. And before the Belgians, in

the 90s, an American climber had bolted a cople mied sport climbs in the Entoto Montains near Addis

Ababa.

Add in a fe doen climbing epeditions, and o hae cataloged almost eerone ho has rock climbed

in Ethiopia. Althogh the list is short, the climbing potential in Africas most montainos contr is

enormos. Man factors hae kept Ethiopia ot of the minds of climbers and torists, bt images of

droght and famine hae been perhaps the most deastating. For too man, Ethiopia is the face of African

poert and for a generation of children, it is the reason that o shold finish or dinner. Nothing cold

be frther from realit.

Rock is central to Ethiopias past. Mch of the contrs histor has been etched into rock. Ancient

dnasties chiseled 30m tall stele from granite alls in Tigra. Ethiopian Christians sclpted sbterraneanchrches into the basalt bedrock and cared monasteries high p in the cragg montains. Ethiopia is both

here the Nile is born and the Roof of Africa. According to local legend, the orlds montain ranges once

gathered in Ethiopia, and hen the meeting ended, none of them ent home.

I can relate. Thats hat happened to me. I spent the better part of three ears traeling arond the

contr, roping p ith phenomenal climbers and searching for the least isited montain ranges and

nclimbed toers. Hoeer, I didnt realie that in m on backardright otside of the capital Addis

AbabaI old find and establish Ethiopias first complete sport climbing crag.

A W B

In March 2013, I began placing rotes on Armora Gedel, a cliffface high aboe the Farensa neighborhood

in Addis Ababa. The 60meter ertical basalt all is a smphon of bron, black, and orange rock spotted

ith green and ello lichen. Lines ar from cracks to pockets to edges and slopers. The rock is alie,

earning to be discoered, and b that I mean climbed. Most Ethiopians find it difficlt to reconcile

climbing rock faces and hman natre, and eqate or actions ith those of monkes. Wh climb a rock

face hen there is an eastofollo path leading to the top of the cliff? M plan as to change the focs

from h climb to ho to climb.

Armora Gedelmeaning Haks Cliff in Amhariclies in the Entoto Montains, 2800 meters aboe the

ha citscape. Local farmers from Kile, the illage perched aboe the cliff, cltiate heat and in the

alle. Here, like most of rral Ethiopia, farmers se oen to plo the fields, depend on the rain season,

and integrate their children into the ccle of agricltre at an earl age, prodcing shepherds instead of

stdents.


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On that da in March, the small rains ere late, the sn baked dng hile croded clotheslines saed in

the cool breee. Folloing the smell of roasting coffee, e fond orseles in the ht of a oman named

Werke. She elcomed s b seeping the ard hile her daghter began preparing coffee, intrinsic to

hospitalit in Ethiopia.

We represented hat cosmopolitan Addis Ababa had become. A half doenas ere

ephemisticall referred toin possession of modernits latest and greatest onders, like hoses made

of magic fibers that repelled rain, small hitech cook stoes, and lighteight beds of air. In addition, e

came ith hea bags of climbing gear. We ere foreign and msterios, and it as er likel that thisclimbing project old change the illage of Kile in one a or another.

Immediatel the illagers ho erent ot preparing fields for seed gathered arond Werkes ht. The

neighbors, the ncles drnk on homemade liqor, idling children ot of school, and an old man ho as

either blind or deaf or both, came arond to hear hat the isitors had to sa. Ho cold I conince the

illage that e ere not drilling the rock to etract hidden riches? I shoed the illagers a climbing

magaine, eplaining there ere professionals ho do hat e do, bt are so good at it, the get paid.

Althogh the name Chris Sharma meant nothing, the gloss photos srel impressed them.

Yo hae a cliff here in or illage that e ill tr to climb like the do in these photos, I eplained inAmharic, Ethiopias nifing langage. We ill not die, and if anbod ants to learn to climb rocks, e

are here to teach o. The Ethiopians seemed dbios.

2nd pitch of Cracked Wheat. Werke (left) and Kiles neighbors

I old neer get close to the cliff. M blood pressre is er high, one neighbor said. Armora Gedel is here the

birds lie. Its not a place for hmans.

I pt on a harness and shoes and handed climbing eqipment to the neighbors. I tried to sho that rock

climbing as a sport: their children pla soccer, e climb rocks, simple. None of the illagers isibl

opposed or ideas, bt the ere clearl haing troble ith the idea of climbing as sport. Seeral illagersasked me if it as gold I as after. Another assred me that people hae come to drill for oil, bt to no

aail. Talking asnt going to conince anone.

Come ith me. We ill no longer stand on the grond. We ill stand in the air, I declared, raising the

Bosch to the sk.

S C, B S

The same da e set p rappel from the top of the all and drilled anchors on the first and second pitches

of the first climbs. The ork had barel begn, and illagers ere perpleed. And if these ropes sddenl

break, their bodies ill be bried in the fields, a neighbor said oer and oer.


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M, W A A (2014):

N E R/P, B H N R P

In other nes beside terminating and scaring, I as p on Menegesha from the forest presere side

looking off to NW smmit there as a good looking 2 pitch all (see pictre). The Soth smmit from

here I as looked like it had a steep oerhanging sports tpe all. On the NE point seemed to hae some

short alls and short spire, bt as hard to see from here I as. It smmit 'platea' p there. We

definitel need a to make a eekend trip p there and do some eploring. Sharp Granite.



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42

W M, E A A, (2014):

N ' ' W, M 5 2014

Jst managed to sqeee this one in folks! Good solid crstalied rock here and is the beginning stage of a 100m all

hich flattens ot (70 degrees) after the first 2030 meters of erticalness.


M E2, 6 5.10?

I had a ire brsh and a nt tool that did the cleaning relatiel eas. I placed mostl medimlarge sied nts, and

the cams I placed ere from .5, .75, 1 and 2.


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W M, N R P:

S E R/P, H N R P

https://.facebook.com/media/set/?set=oa.10152203728131271&tpe=1


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H' S

5.11 6+ 23 VIII E4 5

International: Africa: Ethiopia: Dae's Fall & Hena's Secret (Hena Point)

FA: ??

T: T, S

C:5.11 6+ 23 VIII E4 5

L: 1 , 75'

D

This is aesome, sstained climbing ith seeral carefl, technical moes oer ertical rock. The rote follos the

bolts ntil the third or forth bolt hen climbers are forced oer a small blge. There is one more bolt and then a

final bolt anchor. We are crrentl looking to install a 2nd bolt on the anchor.

This is trl a classic Entoto climb that sholdn't be missed if o are in the are for more than one da.

L

This is the onl rote on the all.

P

Bolts and gear. Place TCUs throghot beteen the bolts.

[hide]H' S: Notice the pillar to the left of the all. Climbers ma hae to do some gardening at the base.

https://.facebook.com/media/set/?set=oa.10152242908926271&tpe=1


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H, B H, E M,

Name: Homebase

Location: Enderta

Altitde: 2250 m

Nearest cit: Mekelle

Rock tpe: basalt

Rote lengths: 50 meter

Nmber of rotes toda: 1 + 5 bolder rotes First rote opened: 13/08/2004 b R. Aerts (Direct, 4b)

Eqipped ith: nothing

Other: bolders near rock base

Info at: https://pers.kleen.be/0019879/trc/trcnes.html

BABU HILLS, H, 13/08/2004:

The B Hcliff or as e like to call it, is a long basalt cliff east of Mekelle, or home ton. It is located behind the

Bb Hills Hotel (no the Hilltops Hotel) and is easil accessible b car or b foot. Althogh the oerall qalit of the rock is

rather poor de to onionpeel eathering of the basalt, etensie parts of compact rock ith cracks can be fond here. At the

foot of the cliff, some large basalt blocks make good bolder fn.

We opened 5 bolder rotes (3 to 5c) and one eas chimne toda. The chimne as named "" (4a) since rock hraes

ere sing the crack as a commnal toilet.

Davide on a 5c

boulder route inBubu

Raffa on an

easy 4bboulder route

in Bubu

Davide opening

LaTrine (4a) on thesouth section of the

Bubu Hills cliff


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S G M:

Qatrime et dernier stop G

Jaais bien qelqes ombres sr google map mais franchement je ne m'attendais

pas troer atant de si belles montagnes....

Nos n'aons grai qe de oies par manqe de temps, ne porrie et ne sperbe,

mais le potentiel est raiment norme..

Sel inconnient les montagnes sont asse loin les nes de atres

Por Molalit, Gondar pet tre ne bonne base(15 mintes de oitre)

Por les atres Addis Zemen pet assi tre tilise comme base srtot q' l'Est de

cette ille nos aons encore aper des sommets magnifiqes,

Je n'ai acne ide de la faon de les approcher mais ce sera srement l'objet d'n

prochain oage.

Le rocher est trs bon et ressemble celi de Aokenet dans le hoggar

Sr Molalit notre oie fait presqe 200m et il a de qoi en orir 15 atres...

Por les atres montagnes entre Meksenit et Addis Zemen l'accs est estim o 2h

siant les faces aec des haters de faces sprieres 300m par endroit.

La one est asse pastorale et donc il a asse pe de jngle a pied

Un accompagnant local est iement recommand,

Hotel Amabarras

Gondar(11 eros la chambre doble) sper propre et trs dispo por nos troer n

minibs n 4X4 etc

resta de l'hotel

accompagnant Voir Aferan

il porte le gros sac, accompagne, sreille et gre les conflits aec les loca...

de pls il sait ce qe grimper et dire aec les contraintes de timming, d'incertitdes et

atres qe cela impliqe.

Pls gnralement

il fat tre trs clair dans la faon de contractaliser aec n gide, n propritaire de

minibs car la moindre faille de tradction o atre sera eploite en otre dfaer...

Il at mie tojors tre accompagn d'n local qi portera le gros sac mais assiepliqera, grera les hordes de gamins hrlants...

Ceci os itera les caillassages qe nos aons sbis...

Nos aions choisi de d'tablir nos bases en ille dans des htels afin de nos reposer

raiment et de nos sostraire la pression.

Vos poe assi le faire pls root mais ce ne sera pas moins cher car os dere

embacher ne personne por sreiller otre camp nit et jor et os dere grer par

os mme les problme d'ea et atres.

Nos oies sont qipes minima

trois o qatre pitons stratgiqes pas pls.

Nos n'aons plant q'n sel spit la descente de Molalit

Mais la protection est soent bonne et facile leception de qqs passages mentionnsdans les topos

Bdget

600 eros aion Tolose Addis

1000 eros chacn por presqe 5 semaines sr place

http://epeditionconsltanc.com/p/pcontent/ploads/2013/09/AlainBrescaladeenEthiopie.pdf


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N E R/P, B H N R P

S, (S R) V L

Boldering and rotes potential


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54

L M, L, (1/2 A & A)


Matt Roberts and Catherine and Nico Dems made a possible first eer climbing ascent on Asheten montain aboe

Lalibela. 70m, 2 pitches, 5.9. First pitch is the best climbing. Qalit basalt, perfect cracks, lots of plants light rain and

lightning threats at 3300m aboe sea leel. A orld of rock aaits in the Lasta Montains.

N E R/P, B H N R P

Potential in the Lasta Montains! Note the all on the left. 100m of loel ertical basalt!


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A A, R C M G I 2 (F):

Italian Map of Ada Montains from 1890s

Deime stop A Cemassif est sit ator de la ille d'Ada elle mme positionne 20 km l'Est de Am.C'est ne illepossirese, agite, pas belle d tot mais terriblement smpatiqe, Pas de toristes et d cop pri

raisonnables(1/4 de Am) et rapports aec la poplation etrmement cordia et faciles, La roche est partot neroche olcaniqe(Andsite trachte et atres basaltes) soent trs bonne, Les formes de montagnes ne sont pas

sans rappeler le hoggar mais il a soent la jngle et les baboins a pied et de l'herbe, des arbres(oliiers

majeste) a sommets, Les ois qe nos aons oertes font entre 140 et 300m mais il a des faces de 400

oire 500m magnifiqes et pas difficiles d'accs.

A notre ais le mie est d'installer le camp de base Ada(hotel samaata) d'o en 15 30 mintes de minibs o

oitre on atteint le dbt des approches.

Il a des montagnes partot comme a desss de Yeha, a desss de la rote d'Adigrat, mais assi a nord d'Am

et pls loin 10 km a sd de Shire.

L'escalade se pratiqe sr n rocher presqe tojors ecellent le long de fissres, colonnes basaltiqes perons et

dalles. C'est raiment n des pls gros potentiels qe j'ai dans le monde, comme Rm o Taghia mais plsparpill.

Hotel et restarant: Hotel Smaata(7,5 eros la nit chambre doble) la sortie d'Ada ers Am(proche

d croisement de la rote d'Asmara) 0347712153 raiment propre smpat, le propritaire et le manager (Teska)

sont de raies bonnes ressorces por troer n accompagnant, n minibs o n 4X4, Boffe ecellente(5eros

por de) ; ne pas oblier de goter les Chacla tossis(iande de chre grille en lamelles aec des oignons)

Minibs demander Mabr 0910333168, Accompagnat Aleander 0914764445

Eiter les agences et les hotels resta Am....Rfrence les jenes Grenoblois oir le site CAF Grenoble


http://ogdenotdooradentre.com/2012/02/08/adentreclimbinginethiopia/

G , H E, .


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A M E R 2014

S C

Large rock toers made p of qartite, basalts, andesites and marble abond the area as ell as nmeros smaller

crags. The rock is generall solid and compact hich can in places lead to long rn ots hen not folloing natral

crack lines. There is lots of potential for ne adentros trad rotes on the toers and smaller crags. De to the

compact natre of the rock on man of the smaller crags there is a ast amont of potential for bolted sport climbs

. ,

.There is also scope for mch boldering especiall on the otskirts of Abba Girima illage.

A G A G I S M

We camped and based orseles in Abba Girima illage, in consltation ith the illage elders, for the first eek.

The hae had preios climbing parties there so are not totall naccstomed to climbers, hoeer it is still far

from normal life and so be prepared to feel like a circs animal. The elders reqested that the illage gard keep an

ee on or eqipment at nights. The also instrcted the children not to bother s and reqested an adlt to atch

oer or base camp. It shold be noted that it as common to hae grops of children srronding or tent. In order

not to eacerbate the isse e made sre not to gie anthing aa ntil e left to illage and to make sre that e

ere as discrete ith or food and belongings as possible. Upon leaing the illage e made a small cash donation

to the illage elders and sggested that it as sed to prchase some desks for the local school.

There is a small shop here it is possible to b a fe soft drinks or bottles of beer and a fe packets of biscits.

There is a local lad ho is able to make o bread (if she can get hold of the spplies for it). It is possible to get

enogh food stffs to prepare basic camp foods from Ada market.

Written b Ethiopia Rocks 2014

S

T

L

B

C

A

N

C

C

C

C

S E

B, M

N


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6. F M, E1 5, 25

Climb p the corner to gain the start of the right hand crack hich is folloed to the obios tree, finish as

for Trapdoor.

Jacob Phillips. 23/04/2014


S E B M

1. W J ,E3 5, 30

The hand crack in the centre of the face left of Staira to Heaen. Climb the crack to here a pll p and

left oer protrding blocks and flakes leads to a niche. A large singing I bsh lo don if being blon

toards o can make the cr feel harder!

Tom Bide, 24/04/14 (lots of aid)

2. S H, E1 5, 30

Climb the corner crack p to the roof and traerse right delicatel on smooth rock to a step don to gain the

obios ledge.

Jacob Phillips, 24/04/14



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C B B S

1. G ....... E2/3 5, 15

Abseil to the small ledge at the base of the hand crack, there is potential for a first pitch to gain the ledge at

a er high grade and on poor rock for those inclined.

Climb the hand crack b steep jams, ntil the angle eases and a rest is gained, finish p the fist crack aboe.

Tape recommended.

Jacob Phillips, Abseil Inspection/cleaning, 25/04/14

2. T C E1 5, 35

Start belo the obios right facing corner here a ledge at 3m is gained from the right. Traerse left along

the ledge for 2m and climb p into a small niche hich reqires an interesting moe to eit. Climb the corner

aboe to gain a ledge ia a traerse right for 2m. Finish p the ide crack aboe either b getting into it or

staing on the otside. A moe left and p at the top of the crack gains the bela.

Carl Reill, Abseil Inspection/cleaning, 25/04/14



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M O T N 2, A

S G, D, 120, (2012)



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M O, A, T N 3

P 50 D 2

! TD, 180, (2012):


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A D G S, A, J C

N F D G, B M SH, 5.8 R/X, 800, (2012),

Or second destination in Tigra as Ada, a ton most famos for being the site of the final battle in the First Ethio

Italian War, in hich Ethiopia sccessfll defended itself against imperial forces. Or interest in the cit as piqed

mainl b the Ada Montains, in hich the ton lies at the center. These striking domes are composed mostl of

trachandesite; the rock is generall ecellent and ell featred, bt protection is sparse. Pitches rotinel featredrnots of 30' or more oer sections of nontriial climbing. Thogh e broght a handdrill and a small set of bolts, these

ere neer sed, as e fond the rock too hard to make handdrilling practical; hoeer, pitons came in hand.

We first did a armp climb on the central ramp on the north face of Debre Gndo, ith to pitches of eas bt rnot

roped climbing and 500 of fifthclass brsh scrambling and fn, eas soloing: Brrs in M ShHo (800, 5.8 R/X), an

homage to the abndant polestergripping seeds of the rotes natie foliage.

S, A, J C

11 P N, 5.10 R/X, 11 ,

From this first smmit, e gained a clear ie of the loer sotheast bttress of Samaata, the ranges highest peak.

After a dalong reconnaissance hike, e picked a line p the right side. We hiked back the net da ith or gear and

made sleeping arrangements in the hose of a friendl Tigrina man, naare that a edding celebration old occr the

net morning in his hose. Or climb as delaed b a breakfast of injera and the blood and intestines from a freshl

slaghtered goat, hich proided some ecellent sending energ.

Or line folloed 11 pitches of discontinos face featres and ledges, ith long rnots. Etended gardening sessions on

lead and or late start left s climbing the last to pitches b moonlight. We stopped pon reaching a ridge one to topitches beneath the loer bttress smmit, here the climbing became steeper and more rnot than e ere prepared

to handle. We made eight long rappels don the choss gll on the other side of the ridge and named or partial ne

rote 11 Pitches to Nohere (5.10 R/X).

In or traels, Dan and I learned that climbing in Tigra reqires etreme patience and a illingness to entre into the

nknon. There is absoltel good climbing to be had in this region, bt oll hae to ork to find it. Climbing reall

becomes a secondar prsit, as this region ill take o throgh places fe others eer trael, here oll meet some

of the friendliest and most hospitable people anhere. John Collis,AAC

A ie of the loer bttress on Samaata's east face ith the line of 11 Pitches to Nohere (5.10 R/X).

http://pblications.americanalpineclb.org/articles/13201212129/GheraltaMassifandAdaMontainsnerotes


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L D D V, T,

D V, 7


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S A M U G A

http://epeditionconsltanc.com/p/pcontent/ploads/2013/09/horionethiopiqe.pdf

U G A:

E2, , S, (200), LS,

(2007).

Remarkable isolated toer of marble standing on the soth side of the range. Tohor alkin.

The 300m northeast face is nclimbed and er challenging.

http://pblications.americanalpineclb.org/articles/12200828502/AfricaEthiopiaTigraandAdaRegionsNebeletSmmar

ofNeRotes2006Winter2008


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T C, T C

1. T G Y H, E2 5, (120)

Pitch 1, 30m, 4b. Climb p the centre of the slabs linking shallo grooes to gain a large cae bela.

Pitch 2, 20m, 5c. traerse a sloping slab right from the bela ntil a corner is reached, step p and left ot of

this on small holds onto the face (short sharp cr), once better holds are reached mantle onto the top of

the corner and step back right arond the arte and follo egetated cracks to a large set back cae bela.

Pitch 3, 30m, 5b, climb ot of the cae on the left p a all to steep cracks follo these ntil a blge and

then make a rising traerse back right ntil a large broken crack climb this steepl to the net bela ledgePitch 4, 40m, 5b, climb ot on to the hanging arte on the left of the bela ledge steepl on positie holds

onto the face, climb easer grond the angle eases.

Tom Bide, Carl Reill & Martin Lane. 29/04/14.


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H

Carl Reill

L

We staed at a nice gest hose in the centre of Haien (hich is not normall sed b Forengi, and is off the main

rondabot, net to the ton hall), from here e droe ot each da to the toers to climb.

C

Three das ere spent searching for climbing on the Megab & Horsetooth toers jst otside of Haien. Seeral

rotes ere attempted and abandoned mid pitch or at the top of their first pitches de to poor rock qalit. There is

no shortage of lines to climb if ore a proficient crack and/or offidth/chimne climber ho likes an adentre. It

shold be noted that a significant rack of large etremel large gear is reqired for the majorit of the climbing inthis area. The rock is in general soft and feels friable nder toch, flakes are commonl loose and the srface of the

holds seem to erode pon toch hich does not inspire confidence. As epected, the chimnes are alas mch

larger than inspection throgh binoclars from the road old lead o to beliee.

A cople of boldering sessions ere spent on the rond granite bolders at Gobbo Dra. These bolders are on the

otskirts of Megab jst a short 15 minte alk from the road that leads back to Haien. There is scope for lots of

high qalit problems, e fond the boldering to be far better than the climbing in the area. We fond that isiting

the bolders dring school hors helped to redce the nmber of spectators, and renting a local gide to look after

or kit and to help dissade the local spectators from getting too boisteros cold be of benefit.


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G R K S: The Koraro Spires ith the tallest Sheba Soth Face of The Sharp one

on the far right and the obios point one to its left being The Sharp One.

T ("T S O"): P1. ("T S O"): The Sharp One. At bottom of sharp nose I think!

https://.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10201572231802790&set=a.10201572229642736.10737418

29.10875577

A Guide to Rock Climbing and Bouldering in Ethiopia (2014)

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Transcript of A Guide to Rock Climbing and Bouldering in Ethiopia (2014)