a little bouldering guide

of

28

presents

Joshua Tree

Hidden Valley Campground

Barker Dam

Ryan Campground

Asteroid Belt

JBMF area

Turtle Rock

Cap Rock

Real Hidden Valley

(enough to keep you busy for a while)

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Barker Dam

Streetcar Named DesireF R

V6The classic dihedral. Stem into the dihedral to double dyno above the small bulge.

BirdmanF R

V3Climb the seam 6 feet left of the arete. THIS IS ALSO THE DESCENT.

GunsmokeF R

V2Start at the far left, traverse right to a corner and keep traversing to finish on a good sloper over a bulge, left of small trees.

High NoonF R

V5 RStart with two horizontal cracks, up to a jug in another one and up to a seam.

Corner ProblemF R

V1Climb the crack in the dihedral. To go down, walk all the way left.

UnknownF R

mediumSDS - Start with two low crimps in an horizontal seam and straight up to the end of Gunsmoke.

The ChubeF R

V2Climb the left-facing, right-leaning flake to a rounded top out.

Old WaveF R

V3Start on a cheater stone? to grab high crimp and climb over the bulge.

New WaveF R

V3Climb over 2 bulges in the middle of the face.

JuniorF R

V0-Climb the short slab by its right arete.

BabyfaceF R

V0Climb the slab right of the dike.

Fat LipF R

V1Climb the arete and through the left of a small flat roof.

Liquid WrenchF R

V1Climb with the left-facing, right-leaning flake.

Chicken WingF R

V0Start over the roof with a good right-facing flake/arete and go to a right-leaning crack.

7

1 2

3 4 56

14

13

12

11109�

8

Although Barker Dam doesn't have a big concentration of problems, a few are classics. Test your endurance on

the 70 feet traverse Gunsmoke or enjoy the pure line of The Chube. For the

more experienced climbers, Streetcar Named Desire is a must. To get there

from Hidden Valley Campground, simply drive on the dirt road and follow the signs to Barker Dam.

(enlarged to serve you better)

To Barker Dam

2 27

Joshua Tree, California

SacramentoNot many places in the US have as many rocks as does Joshua Tree. There are more than 5 000 routes in the park! You'll find also many excellent boulderings as good as anywhere else. The sharp granite offers excellent friction. If your trill is to do first ascent, you'll never leave Josh. Just in the more developed area of Hidden Valley Campground, some guys from St-Louis put over 10 problems. These are Great Lines! If you happen to put up some new stuff around the area covered by this topo, why not send us the info and share your work.�How to get there: You'll find Joshua Tree Park on any map of California. It is Southeast of Barstow. Coming from the North you'll enter the park either by Joshua Tree (the city) or 29 Palms. They'll give you a map at the entrance of the park. You want to go to Hidden Valley Campground or Ryan Campground. From there use the map on page 14. The access fee is $10 per car, $25 for a year pass or "free" with the Golden Eagle Access ($65). To pay your fee, it's better not to arrive or leave late evening or during the night when there are no rangers to collect the money...

When: This is a winter area, so from late fall to early spring. In March it starts to be warm. However the nights are cold so bring warm clothes and firewood.

Eat: Joshua Tree (the city) is the closest town (15 miles). You'll find some small groceries and good cafes. Yucca Valley is 5 miles further west and has big stores and fast foods. THERE IS NO WATER IN THE PARK.

Sleep: One of the best things in Josh: free camping. Once you're in the park, you'll enjoy nice campsites (that you might have to share) for free. Picnic tables, fireplaces and restrooms. There is a 14 days limit.

Guidebook : Joshua Tree Bouldering by Mari Gingery.

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Ryan Campground

Flight AttendantF R

V4Climb the overhanging arete by its right side. Also a SDS.

Gibb's AreteF R

V1Climb up and right to finish over a table.

Lip Encounter 1F R

V0+Start just right of a "fallen slab". Grab jugs at the lip and mantle to the slab.

Lip Encounter 2F R

V2Stand on a small rock, grab good holds at the lip and mantle.

Dreaming Of The MasterF R

V7Climb over the bulge with a slopey right-leaning crack.

The Chiped BulgeF R

V0+Climb the small bulge with suspect holds next to the table.

Figure FiveF R

V2Climb with 3 small vertical cracks.

Fidelman AreteF R

V0+Climb the bulgy arete with good sidepulls.

Riff RaffF R

V0Climb the narrow face with 2 aretes.

WannabeF R

V0Start with a rounded-flakey crimp and go to sloping shelves.

UnknownF R

easyStart with a good foot hold and climb the short face.

Chili SauceF R

V8Climb the overhanging dihedral with left-facing holds and go left to slopers.

Mattaté FaceF R

V4Grab high slopers, climb over the bulge and go up and right.

Stab In The DarkF R

V4Small jump to a slopey knob, then climb over the bulge.

Sting In The SunF R

V5Start right hand with a slightly-left-facing crimp and jump to a slopey edge.

Stepladder MantleF R

V0+Start with 2 big black knobs and climb the rounded face.

Arrowhead LungeF R

V3Start with 2 edges and go straight to the lip.

26

Ryan Campground

Lots of boulders

J

JJJ

JJ

J7

8

9

1011

12

131415 16

17

Horse CampReservations

only

Ryan

Campground

T

T

T

T

F

F

JJ

F

1

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5

6

by Robert MiramontesA Complete Bouldering Guide to Joshua Tree

The most comprehensive guide to Joshua Tree. It has 304 pages with over 1000 problems, 300

reference pics, many action photos, 65 detailed maps, GPS

coordinants and perfectly bound with high quality stock.

Available just about anywhere, Climbing Magazine, REI, Sports Chalet and most local climbing

shops.

4 25

DTriangleBoulder

Caveman Area

F

F

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78910

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222324

CavemanBoulder

SchoolBoulder

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3c.

3d.

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7.

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9.

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17.

18.

Cap Rock III

SealF R

5.6The right side of the face.

WalrusF R

V0-The left side of the featured face.

Picture PerfectF R

V1Climb the overhanging arete up to jugs. Also a SDS (hard).

SquirmF R

V5Start with a left-facing sloper and go either left or right to top out.

The End of the DayF R

V2Start with 2 low sidepulls, go to slopers and top out. Also a possible SDS.

GrainlineF R

V1Climb the crack/seam over a bulge.

JokerF R

V1Climb the right side of the black face.

AceF R

V0Climb the left side of the black face.

Foot Fetish TraverseF R

V7Start with a thin flake, traverse right for 8 feet to finish in Foot Fetish.

Foot Fetish F R

V2Climb the cracked patina slab over the bulge.

Prince FariF R

V6Start with a big flake and go right to climb the face between 2 faint dikes.

Left Hoi PolloiF R

V2Start on the rounded arete over a small rock and go right to the jugs.

Center Hoi PolloiF R

V2Start on the center of the narrow face and go straight to the jugs.

Right Hoi PolloiF R

V0+Climb the rounded arete with good holds and go left to the jugs.

MultigrainF R

V0+Climb the rounded arete with short flakes.

UnknownF R

esaySDS - Climb up and left on the arete.

Dances With WeaselsF R

V1Many variations on the patina face.

RenegadeF R

V0+ RStart with good crimps and go to a seam on the "arete".

19.

20. MaverickF R

V0+ RStart left hand with a good knob and climb the left side of the patina face.

DescentF R

VBClimb the face with big patina patches.

21.

22.

23.

24.

25.

UnknownF R

easyTraverse left with the crack.

UnknownF R

V2Start under the roof, go right to a sidepull and left to the lip of the roof and mantle.

ProjectF R

hardStart in the horizontal crack under the roof and go straight to the lip without using the side.

UnknownF R

mediumStart with slopers and climb left of the arete.

Mushroom ProblemF R

V0+Climb up into the chimney. THIS IS ALSO THE DESCENT.

26.

Thug MantelF R

V1Blank sloping face/mantel on east side of a small boulder just west of Mushroom Problem.

26b.

Slab-a-Dabba-Doo!F R

V1/2/1Three different (delicate) slab problems. Better (and higher) than they appear...

1.

2.

3.

FluffF R

V0-Climb the broken arete with jugs.

Small WorldF R

V0+SDS - Traverse left with the crack and top out.

Sand CastleF R

V3 RTwo long flared crack left of the arete.

5c

5b

24 5

Cap Rock III

J

J

J

J

D

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222324

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to Cap Rock II

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Caveman Area

BushwhackF R

V0Climb the short wide crack.

Split GrainF R

V0-Climb the rounded arete by its left side.

Brief SqueezeF R

V0-One move on a short arete to a jug and a mantle.

CashboxF R

J1+Run and jump to the scoop. Downclimb and jump to get down.

CavemanF R

V6/7Start on a good left-facing flake at the far right of the cave, traverse left to finish on the face. Reverse if for a V8. The SDS with a right hand pinch and left hand undercling is V10.

Press TestF R

V0+Small jump to a good dish at the lip and mantle.

Basketball JumpF R

J1Run and jump over a bulge to grab high slopers.

5b.

5c.

Missing LinkF R

V6/7Start as Caveman but go right via lone patina crimp and climb onto the ledge. The SDS is a hard V8.

Monkey ClawF R

V9/10Start on the left side of the face (under the end of Caveman). Low start with right hand on sidepull hueco and left on sloping shelf. Reverse Caveman and finish in Missing Link.

RoundupF R

V2Grab a high sloper left of a black scar and mantle.

South FaceF R

V0+Climb the face without the arete.

East FaceF R

V0-The left side of the slab.

Descent RouteF R

VB RStart on the ledge and climb the slab. This is also the descent.

UnknownF R

VClimb the bulge with the right-leaning seam.

UnknownF R

VStart left hand with a good pinch and right hand small crimp. Climb over the small bulge with the big boulder leaning on top.

Left SideF R

V1Start right of the arete and the crack. Climb with good edges to better holds.

Center RouteF R

V4Climb the middle of the face.

Right SideF R

V0+Start with left hand on a good sidepull-crimp and climb left of the arete.

Mumbles MumblephoneF R

V3Start right of a small overhang and climb the face.

Mantle of AuthorityF R

V2Go up to the mantle above the black streak.

19.

20.

Mantle of the New AdonisF R

V2Start with a low, good foot and go up to a mantle.

LargonautF R

V4 RGo up and left on a slopey rib over a bulge.

21.

22.

23.

24.

25.

Cheese GraterF R

V3Climb along a small right-facing seam.

North Face, LeftF R

V0-Slab just right of the arete.

North Face, CenterF R

V0+Go up and right on the slab to climb over the bush.

Varsity CrackF R

V1Start right of the bush and left of the scoop.

Jr Varsity MantleF R

V2Mantle to the scoop and climb the slab.

3c

3d

3b

6 23

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7.

8.

9.

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Stem Gem Area

Slam DunkF R

V3Start on the small boulder jump to a dish and top out.

Air JohnsonF R

J2Run into the scoop of Stem Gem and jump left to grab a high right-facing jug.

Stem Gem F R

V3Smear your way up into the scoop and climb up and right on the slab.

Stem Gem MantleF R

V5Start on a sloper above the lip and mantle to finish in Stem Gem.

VicegripF R

V6Start on the same sloper than Stem Gem Mantle but go up and right to a small right-leaning seam.

Realized Ultimate...F R

V6Start with a slopey pinch and go up and left to a small right-facing seam above the bulge.

Piss CrackF R

V0+ RClimb the wide crack in the dihedral formed by the two boulders up to a sharp arete.

SloperfestF R

V3Climb with 3 slopey seams.

The PusherF R

V0+Grab a high sloper at the lowest part of the lip and mantle.

The TotemF R

V2SDS - Start with a low left-facing flake and go up to the arete.

LemmingF R

V0+Chimney with the 2 boulders to reach a sloper then mantle.

YabolatorF R

V6Go into a shallow scoop between 2 bulges and up to a dish at the lip.

BoondoggleF R

V2Start with a high scoop and go left into the slab.

UnknownF R

VStart with big slopey gaston/sidepulls above a black streak and go up and right to the arete.

F

T

F

T

F

T

Campsite #18

Stem Gemboulder1

2,34,5

6

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1314

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Cap Rock II

CollieherbF R

V0+Start with a jug in an horizontal crack and climb the face with many horizontal slashes.

HerbivoreF R

V2Climb the buttress with pinches over a small bulge.

All Washed UpF R

V6Start with an horizontal crack. Climb 6 feet right of a crack on slopey edges.

3b. All Burned OutF R

V8Start in All Washed Up and traverse right across the center of the face on small crimps, and ends on Soar Eagle. (aka Soar Finger)

Bald EagleF R

V7/8Start in the horizontal crack, make a long move to small crimps. 3 feet right of All Washed Up and finish in All Washed Up.

Soar EagleF R

V6Go up to a pinch left hand and up to a high crimp. 3 feet right of Bald Eagle.

UnknownF R

hardStart with a gaston left hand and a pinch right hand and go to the horizontal seam.

LungeF R

V3Start with good holds in a scoop, traverse left for 6 feet with the crack then long move to the lip. Direct start is V4.

Up 20F R

V2 RClimb the thin right-leaning crack.

False AyatollahF R

V0+ RClimb the tall gray face with small vertical seams. Bad landing.

VibratorF R

V2Start with a pointed flake. Climb the face and the rounded arete.

Largo DynoF R

V3Start on a small rock left of the "lichens" sign. Jump to the lip and mantle.

Pumping MonzoniteF R

V7Start low on a thread/undecling and climb the steep face with 3 parallel seams.

South AreteF R

V0+ RClimb the right-leaning arete while your spotter is nicely seated!

11.

12.

13.

TalonF R

V9Start at head-high sloper, climb arete and right face with micro crimps up to jugs.

Lock JawF R

V9Step off boulder and climb between 2 diagonal slashes (note: if it's still there, the loose flake is off).

Hueco PatchF R

V5Jump to slopey huecos then go up on slopers.

Powell PinchF R

V3A short trail from a small pullout will get you straight to this left-leaning arete.

Powell CrankF R

V6Start with a slopey edge/pinch, go to a right-facing crimp and climb the short rounded arete.

FitnessF R

J1+Run and jump between 2 bushes to grab a slopey dish.

Cap RockParking

PavedTrail

R

To KeysView

WashWash

PavedTrail

1

2

34

56

78 9

10

1415

16

171819

to Cap Rock III

13-11

22 7

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Cap Rock I

SombreroF R

V1Climb with seams on the left side of the face facing the parking.

FedoraF R

V0-Climb the friction slab left of the middle.

TurbanF R

V0+Climb the face with slopey edges right of the handicaped parking sign.

Ten GallonF R

V0+Climb the right side of the face with a crystal knob.

PanamaF R

V3Start with an almost horizontal crack and crimps and go to a rounded top out.

UnknownF R

VBClimb the right side of the face with jugs formed by seams.

UnknownF R

VBBig flakes and crack.

House BrewF R

V0-Start with right hand crimp, go to a jug at the lip and mantle.

French RoastF R

V1Start with a slopey sidepull left hand, go to the slopey lip and mantle.

Parking Lot ProblemF R

V4Climb the cracked bulge of a boulder standing on another.

Gram Parsons MemorialF R

V0Traverse the lip of a fallen boulder with many "GRAM" graffitis.

Short CrackF R

V0-Climb the black and orange bulge with a crack. Escape right and climb the flake.

UnknownF R

easyTraverse right with an horizontal crack.

White CrackF R

V0-Start with a good flake and climb the crack.

Love HandleF R

V3Start with a slopey edge but good feet, go to slopers and climb over the bulge.

High Heeled SneakersF R

V5 RClimb the thin left-leaning crack to a rounded top out.

West CornerF R

V3Climb left of the arete with a high slopey sidepull.

North CornerF R

VBClimb the less inclined arete.

19.

20.

East CornerF R

V1Climb a rounded, slabby arete.

South CornerF R

V0+Climb the low inclined arete.

Cap RockParking

CapRock

Paved Trail

1 2 3 45

R6

789

10

11

1213 14 15

1617

18

1920

To RyanCampground

To KeysView

To Hidden ValleyCampground

1.

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5.

6.

7.

8.

9.

10.

11.

12.

13.

14.

Hensel Arete Area

Hensel AreteF R

V1Climb the rounded arete.

SlabmasterF R

V3Climb the middle of the slab, over a stump.

The No HandsF R

VBClimb the scooped slab, just left of the small overhang.

Slap ProwF R

V3Start left hand in a pocket and right hand on a sidepull sloper. Bear hug the aretes.

Scoop ProblemF R

V2Climb into the scoop then through the bulge.

Hard's AnkleF R

V1Climb with the right-facing flake over a bad landing.

ScatterbrainF R

V6Start left hand sidepull, right hand crimp. Climb the prow to a jug.

Lapse Of LogicF R

V1Start with a good slopey edge and go through the "V".

Tricky TraverseF R

V4Traverse the 10 feet high horizontal crack from left to right.

Formula OneF R

V4Climb the arete left of the chimney.

UnknownF R

VClimb the steep arete over a bush.

Ceader's SlabF R

V0+Start with sidepulls and crimps from a platina flake and climb the rounded arete above a bulge. Possible hard SDS.

Midwest MadnessF R

V4SDS - Start with slopey-platina-flakes and climb right of the rounded arete. Uneven landing.

UnknownF R

VStart with good holds in the left-leaning seam and climb the face over a small boulder.

F

T

TT

F

F

Campsite #10

Campsite #11

Campsite #12

1

2

3

45

Hen

sel

Bou

lder

RoastedPeanut

The Cube

ScatterbrainBoulder

Chi

mne

yB

ould

er

6

7

89

1011

1213

14

8 21

1.

2.

3.

4.

5.

West Outback

Gripped and GrungedF R

V4From the trail, you'll see this boulder with an obvious right-leaning dike. Climb the dike over the bulge and on the slab.

Laura ScudderF R

V2Start with a left-facing flake. Climb the concave face up and right to thin flakes.

False Hueco TraverseF R

V3SDS - Start as False Hueco but traverse right along an horizontal crack.

False HuecoF R

V1SDS - Start in a really low hueco and go up to a slopey scoop.

TorquemeisterF R

V4SDS - Start with slopers, go up to a pinch, crimps and the top. Really short.

9

10 11 12

1314

15

16

1718

19

20

21

2223

24

2526

27

2829

30

IronDoorCave

CavemanArea

1

2

3,4

5

67

8

31 32 33 34

35

Big ScaleMany features

have been omitted

TheBlob

Stem GemArea

HenselAretearea

3637 38

39

40 41

7.

8.

9.

10.

11.

12.

13.

14.

15.

16.

17.

18.

Asteroid Belt

The Boxer ProblemF R

V2Choose from many crimps to go to an undercling.

XylophoneF R

V2Start with a two-hand crimp, go to a left-facing crimp then the rounded top.

FishbaitF R

V1Start with a right-facing flake, go to a slopey scoop then the top.

South West FaceF R

VBClimb up to a small right-facing dihedral.

Out Of TouchF R

V2Climb left of the arete with a good left-facing undercling/flake.

UnknownF R

mediumStart with a left-leaning crack. Go to a small edge then the top.

Off ChamberF R

V4Start with a big shelf and go straight to the top.

GrungeF R

V0+Climb a big right-leaning, left-facing rounded flake.

CrankcaseF R

V3Start with the good part of a left-facing flake/seam and go to a slopey top out.

WranglerF R

V2Start with 2 slopers on a ramp over a small roof. Climb over the bulge.

GambitF R

V1Start with a small rounded left-facing flake, go up to a ramp and a left-leaning crack.

ThingamajigF R

V0Start with small flakes and go up to jugs and a mantle.

19.

20.

Meat SubstituteF R

V2Climb the arete left of an open chimney.

RibticklerF R

0+Go up to a scoop with 2 small seams.

21.

22.

23.

24.

26.

27.

28.

29.

30.

31.

32.

33.

34.

35.

36.

37.

38.

UnknownF R

easyStart with slopey edges and climb left of a scoop.

Burning SensationF R

V1Start with tiny flakes and climb the slab left of an horizontal crack. The trail is just next to this problem.

Smoke DetectorF R

V3Start with good crimps and go to a "bump".

UnknownF R

VStart with an horizontal flake, go to a crimp and the high right-facing flake.

Anaconda WinkF R

V0+Jump to a good slopey knob and go to the rounded ridge.

RetroF R

V0+Start with a black knob for a foot and climb the face just right of the arete.

UltravioletF R

V2Go up to a black right-leaning dike.

VoyagerF R

V2Start right hand with a good sidepull in a "V".

NebulaF R

V0-Start with black knobs and a small left-facing seam.

UnknownF R

VBGood right-facing flake up to a big black knob.

UnknownF R

VBGood left-facing flake up to a dish.

PeabrainF R

V3Climb over a bulge with right-facing holds in a crack.

OptigripF R

V4Start with an horizontal seam and go over the bulge with intermittent cracks.

UnderdogF R

VStart with high crimps and go up to a left-facing seam.

FootsieF R

V3Start with a good edge for your feet.

Face OffF R

V2Climb the face with 3 black scars.

InterceptorF R

V0+Climb a right-facing flake to an horizontal crack and the top.

39.

40.

OrbiterF R

V3Traverse around the boulder. Start wherever, but finish where you started.

PigpenF R

V3SDS - Start at the back of the cave and climb the crack.

41. NicopressF R

V5 RStart on the shelf 9 feet high and mantle.

42. UnknownF R

hardSDS - Start in the cave with a small crack, go right in the alcove and through the roof/bulge.

25. Little Big HornF R

V0Start with jugs on a steep arete and go to a dish at the lip.

30b

20 9

1.

2.

3.

4.

5.

6.

Asteroid Belt

Key LargoF R

V2Start from a big jug 7 feet high, go 4 feet left to a slopey knob then up the face.

Chip FlakeyF R

V4Go up to a 9 feet high right-facing flake.

The WombF R

V0-Climb a face with a big scoop and avoid the small roof by the left.

Right ScuttlebuttF R

V0Climb up to the scoop 4 feet left of the arete.

Left ScuttlebuttF R

V4Start as Right Scuttlebutt but go left to climb through the bulge.

UndertowF R

V3Climb with a sidepull and the crack between 2 small bulges.

Big Scale

Peewee

Cyclops

to HiddenValley

Campgound

to CapRock

to HiddenValley

Campgound

To get to the Asteroid Belt from Hidden Valley Campground. Walk

on the dirt road to Barker Dam. You'll see on your right a

mountain with a small hole in the middle, near the top. That's the Cyclops. Take the trail in the

curve, after the outhouse.

1

23

4

56

7

8

9

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12

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2625

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27 28 29 30 31 32

33

34

353637

3839

3939

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West Outback

Trout ChowF R

V0+Climb with edges and a tiny right-leaning up to a sloping ledge.

Mr. HF R

V2Start with good holds in the horizontal crack and climb the narrow face without any aretes.

Voice's AreteF R

V0Climb up and right with the arete.

Scissor LockF R

V1Climb the face with the seam.

BulgemasterF R

V3Start left hand with a big knob, right hand in a slopey hueco and go straight up over the the bulge.

UnknownF R

mediumSDS - Start sitting on a small boulder. Grab crimps and go slightly left.

Tilt-O-MeterF R

V2SDS - Start low with a left-facing flake and go straight up over the bulge.

Heel HoockerF R

V0+Start with a good slopey knob and climb the short bulge.

UnknownF R

easyStart just next of the boulder that goes underneath. Climb with scoops.

Dino's EggF R

V0+Start with the left of the scoop and climb the small bulge. Bad landing.

PlatypusF R

V0+Start with a high platina flake and pull over the bulge.

West FaceF R

V0-Many variations on the platina face.

Sit-Down FlakeF R

V4Start on good crimps and climb the short, steep, detached boulder.

Flintlock DynoF R

V10Start on a good edge and dyno to the lip.

ChuckawallaF R

V1Climb the face over the alcove.

UnknownF R

hardStart left of the arete, traverse right staying low and finish above Flintlock Dyno.

Tidal WaveF R

V6Climb the steep arete left of the scooped face.

UnknownF R

mediumClimb the right side of the scooped face up to the arete.

19.

20.

Bedrock AreteF R

V0+Climb up and left on the arete with a tree at your back.

Stoney Point ProblemF R

V3Grab high slopey edge and climb over a bulge.

21.

22.

23.

24.

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26.

27.

28.

29.

30b.

31.

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35.

Yabba Dabba DooF R

V6Start with 2 holds in a short crack and go straight up on the bulge.

Problem ChildF R

V2Thuggy, undercut traverse right to left on arching flake, rising to mantle finish.

30. I.D.C. ProblemF R

V2Start with sharp crimps and climb the face.

Right Nixon CrackF R

V0+ RThis boulder is a little bit above the trail level. Climb the crack on the right of the face.

Left Nixon CrackF R

V0+ RClimb the crack in the middle of the face.

Watergate ScandalF R

V5Start with a big undercling, step on a rail, go left to a small seam then straight up.

HostessF R

V1Climb the short rounded slab.

Central ScrutinizerF R

V5 XClimb the thin, flared crack over a bad sloping landing.

Cole AreteF R

V2 RClimb up with a small black right-facing feature and up to a left-facing flake.

Cole DihedralF R

V2 RClimb in the left-facing corner.

Yabba Dabba Don'tF R

V4 RClimb with the left-leaning crack up to a thin seam and a big obvious knob at the lip. Uneven landing.

36.

37.

38.

39.

40.

41.

ProjectF R

VSDS - Start as Mystical Vibrations but go right to the slopey shelf and on the right face with bad holds.

Mystical VibrationsF R

V6SDS - Start with a big hueco undercling, go to the best holds on the shelf and straight up the steep prow.

ProjectF R

VClimb the tall, steep face on slopey edges.

BreathlessF R

V6SDS - Start under the bulge and climb the short arete.

PalmistF R

V4Start right of the big hueco and climb in the black streak.

Feel the GritF R

V5Climb with pinches over a small bush.

10 19

East Side of Hidden Valley Campground

Hidden Valley

Campground

R

R

G

R

R

3

1 2 45

6

ChimneyRock

see insetbelow

to AsteroidBelt

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2122

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to RealHiddenValley

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1819

Stem Gem Area

CavemanArea

HenselAreteArea

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18.

Turtle Rock

Left SideF R

V3Climb left of the middle of the face with thin flakes.

CenterF R

V1Climb the right side of the face with thin flakes.

Right SideF R

V0Climb the rounded arete.

Right TurtlefaceF R

V2Start 8 feet left of the arete, step on the face to grab a left-facing crimp and go straight up.

Centre TurtlefaceF R

V3Climb the middle of the face, finishing right of the highest point.

Left TurtlefaceF R

V2Start 6 feet right of the arete and climb up to the arete.

Nort West AreteF R

V0-Climb up and right with the arete.

PlaceboF R

V0+Start with edges 4 feet left of the arete and climb the face.

Blood MantleF R

V4Start with slopers over a small bulge and climb the face.

WedgieF R

V3Climb over the small bulge and the rounded arete up to the right of a big undercling face.

West AreteF R

V0Climb up and left with the arete.

March of DimesF R

V3 RClimb the middle of the face, over the right of the slab.

The North AreteF R

V0-Start with a big sidepull and climb the arete.

Morning GloryF R

V3Start with crimps 3 feet right of the arete. Climb the face up to the rounded arete.

Accomazzo FaceF R

V2 RClimb the center of the face to a high, thin, undercling flake.

South FaceF R

V1Start right of a big bush. Climb over a small bulge to a slab.

Desert TortoiseF R

V2Start on the right side of the catclaw bush. Ascend arete using small holds and lieback moves. Stay on arete.

17. TurnbuckleF R

V1Start with a high undercling flake. Go up to a good edge and a mantle.

Sorta HighF R

V3 RClimb the scooped slab. Start either direct or by the left.

19.

20.

Button HighF R

V5 RGo up to a short 8 feet high left-facing flake then traverse left to a small obvious black knob and to the finish of Sorta High.

Powerband WestF R

V9Start 6 feet right of the arete and traverse right to finish on the starting holds of So High.

21.

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So HighF R

V6 RStart on a small rock to grab the first holds. Climb along the crack 2 feet left of the arete.

Crank CityF R

V4 RStart with crimps above a bulge. Climb up and left to a jug and the finish of So High.

ShipwreckF R

V3Traverse the lip/arete of the steep boulder from left to right.

Fistful Of WalnutsF R

V2Climb the wide crack in the evasive dihedral formed by the 2 boulders.

NeoflangeF R

V5Start with a slopey left-facing flake and go up and right to a good left-facing flake.

TurboflangeF R

V3 RStart at a small gray scoop and climb the face with small flakey crimps.

Block PartyF R

V3Climb left of the midlle of the face with thin flakes.

18 11

Turtle Rock

J

J

J

J

J

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J

J

To Real Hidden Valleyend loop

to Hidden Valley Campground(not the easiest way to find Turtle Rock)

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4 56

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D 18

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FlakeyBoulder

WedgieBoulder

WaveBoulder

TurnbuckleBoulder

So HighBoulder

ShipwreckBoulder

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East Side of Hidden Valley Campground

Pothole ProblemF R

V0+On the left side of a small boulder with a lot of scoops. Start with an oblong scoop with a big step and up to the rounded top.

Copper PennyF R

V3 XClimb to a big high hueco under a bulge and to a right-leaning dike. Escape right and downclimb the chimney.

Lunar LiebackF R

V1From Chimney Rock, walk west on the flat stack of boulder. You'll see this 14 feet right-leaning crack on the right side of a small corridor.

Guerin TraverseF R

V7Start with a crack with a small alcove at the bottom and traverse right with horizontal seam to finish in Rats With Wings.

Rats With WingsF R

V2 RStart on a rock, left of a bush and climb the tall crack.

Crack Of NoonF R

V3Walk between the piles of boulders and you'll get to this obvious 13 feet thin crack.

UnknownF R

mediumSDS - Start left hand with a good sidepull and climb the short crystal arete.

Weenie RoastF R

V1Start on a small rock to grab a sidepull left hand and the lower lip with your right hand. Climb over the bulge.

UnknownF R

easyGood sidepull right hand. Climb the short rounded arete.

UnknownF R

easyStart just left of the arete, with an undercling and climb straight up.

UnknownF R

mediumClimb the arete by its left side.

UnknownF R

hard RSDS - Start with an obvious hold. Climb the steep face.

UnknownF R

mediumStart with an horizontal crack. Go up to a good edge and up and left to a horn.

The PisserF R

V5Start with an oblong two-finger pocket in a seam and climb up and right. A SDS would be rad but pretty hard.

UnknownF R

easyStart with an high sloper above the bulge and mantle left.

RazorburnF R

V5Start with a good foothold and climb the patina face up and right.

UnknownF R

hardStart with a left-facing flake and the steep crack. Go up to a hard top out.

Last Chango in J.T.F R

V0+ RClimb over the low bulge and up to a high crack.

19.

20.

PhallusF R

V0- RClimb the west arete of the pinnacle and downclimb the east arete.

Upside-Down PineappleF R

V1Climb up and right along the crack under a roof.

21.

22.

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26.

27.

28.

29.

Tiré Or RetiréF R

V5Climb the face with tiny black knobs.

UnknownF R

mediumStart left of an arete, with sloper and a low scoop for your left foot and mantle onto the slab.

UnknownF R

easyClimb up and left with the arete.

UnknownF R

easySDS - Start with a big undercling flake and go up to the arete.

Orange JuliusF R

V6Start with a hole and go to the obvious orange dike.

LemonF R

V3Go up into the scoops 10 feet right of Orange Julius.

HooferF R

V0+Climb the left side of the face.

Double OrificeF R

V4Climb the low roof and pull over it.

Pure FunF R

V0SDS - Start with good left-facing holds at the bottom of the wide seam and go straight up to a dish at the lip.

For the next problems: from the end loop, scramble up to a high plateau with a bunch of

boulders

17b

12 17

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5.

6.

7.

8.

9.

10.

11.

JBMF Area(lower part)

YardarmF R

V1Go up to a 8 feet high jug in an horizontal crack then up the short face.

UnknownF R

hardSDS - Start left hand sidepull under the roof, right hand sloper. Pull over the small bulge.

Yabo RoofF R

V2SDS - Start with a jug right of a crack. Go up to the lip and mantle.

UnknownF R

mediumSDS - Start with a short flake, go up to a pinch and slopers.

UnknownF R

easyStart at the bottom of a left-leaning crack and go left to climb the arete.

False BlockheadF R

V2Start with a pointed flake and go to the lip.

UnknownF R

mediumSDS to False Blockhead. Start with crimps at the bottom of a curved flake.

NitwitF R

V0+Start with a high shelf and climb over the bulge.

UnknownF R

mediumSDS to Nitwit. Start with crimps on top of a flake.

ShindigF R

V2 RStart on a small rock. Climb the black streak on the face above the cave to a high left-leaning crack.

False Up 20F R

V0+ RClimb the 20 feet long left-facing flake.

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Indian CaveBoulder

False Up 20Boulder

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Real Hidden Valley

DescentF R

VBClimb on the right side of the face with small scoops.

Stand Up For Your RightsF R

V3SDS - Start with a jug at the bottom of a right-leaning seam and climb the face and the arete.

Caesar's PalaceF R

J2A run and jump problem to a high, right-leaning shelf.

Sign ProblemF R

V0+Start with the little bowl right of the arete and climb the face.

West FaceF R

VBStart with a 5 feet high horizontal seam and climb the west face.

Soft PretzelF R

V2Start with a high, juggy horizontal flake, go to the lip and mantle into the slab.

CasabaF R

V1Start standing on the right of a slaby boulder. Grab the lip and pull over to the slab with a small right-facing corner.

John GlennF R

V4 RStart with an high undercling under a small roof and go to a small knob above the lip.

Night CrawlerF R

V0+Traverse the face with the slaby ledge from right to left.

Night TrainF R

V2Step onto the face to reach a 12 feet high left-leaning, right-facing seam.

Saturday Night LiveF R

V4Start with a low horizontal crack and a good sidepull sloper and dyno to the lip.

Betty Jo YablonskiF R

V1 RLeft of the begining of the Real Hidden Valley trail, you'll see this 25 feet face with horizontal cracks and a small roof.

KirkatronF R

V2Start 12 feet right of the tree and traverse right for 30 feet to finish just right of the offwidth.

Lobster LiebackF R

V5Start right of a tree. Climb a right-facing flake to a slopey shelf and a big ledge.

TrailblazerF R

V2Go up to a 8 feet high right-facing flake and pull to a seam above the bulge.

12

3

4

5 bike rack

DEntranceBoulder

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P dirt road

to Hidden ValleyCampground

to Turtle Rock

613

1415

Sports Challenge

Rock

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JBMF Area(upper part)

UnknownF R

easyA short rounded arete.

True GritF R

V3Climb up and right with the arete.

JBMFPF R

V5 RClimb the middle of the face to finish left of the highest point.

RazariumF R

V5Start 6 feet right of JBMFP and climb up into a small shallow scoop.

Two StrokeF R

V2Go up to a high sloper and to the "V" in the lip.

Pinch AreteF R

V3Climb the arete by its left side.

Hensel FaceF R

V2Climb the slab to finish left of the small left-facing corner.

19.

20.

Penny PincherF R

V0+Climb the slab in black streak up to a jug.

Death SeriesF R

V1Mantle wherever on the slopey lip.

21.

22.

23.

24.

25.

Slick WillieF R

V2Start with an undercling crack and go up to the slab.

UnknownF R

hardSDS - Start in an horizontal crack under a bulge, go left to a sloper and to the top of the bulge.

Skip's AreteF R

V6 RClimb the arete with a really slopey right-facing "flake".

TerminatorF R

V5 RStart between bushes, climb up to and over a small bulge to a slab.

English LeatherF R

V1 RStart between bushes and climb the thin face.

11

False Up 20Boulder

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stump21

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Intersection Rock

Punk JunkF R

V3 XThis bouder is on top of a mini-mountain. Climb the right-leaning, left-facing seam over a small bulge.

Reider ProblemF R

V3Start right hand with a pinch, climb over the bulge to go to big scoops and escape wherever.

Knuckle CrackerF R

V0Climb the 20 feet crack.

Augie ProblemF R

V1Climb the narrow slab. Once on the big scoop, escape by the crack.

Undercling TraverseF R

V1Start in the small gully and traverse left for 40 feet with undercling cracks to the start of Right Ski Track (route).

FlingF R

V0-Start left hand with a high sloper and right hand at the bottom of a rounded flake. Go up to the horizontal seam then the top.

Split EndF R

V0Step on a scoop. Go either left to a bigger scoop or right to the horizontal seam.

AnglosaxophoneF R

V6Start on a big cheater stone and climb the thin face with a small tree at your back.

Sweet SpotF R

V6Start with a crimp and a high slopey right-facing pinch and climb over the bulgy face.

Mediterranean SundanceF R

V9 or J2Climb into the slightlty-overhanging-grey-concave face to a small, final bulge. Harder for short people?

Right SideF R

V3Climb the right side of the slab, over a bush.

CenterF R

V1Climb the center of the slab.

Left SideF R

V0+Start with a good foot hold and go slightly left to climb right of the rounded arete.

Intersection MantleF R

V0Start with a perfect-one-hand-knob, go left to a slopey shelf and mantle.

5 5

4 23

RightSki Track

8

9

10 11

12

13

14

to HiddenValley

Campground

to RealHidden Valley

1

6 7

Front View

14 15

A

B

C

D

E

F G

I

J

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KL

MN

O

Hidden Valley CampgroundA - Caveman Area (page 4)B - Stem Gem Area (page 6)C - Hensel Arete Area (page 7)D - West Outback (page 8)E - East Side (page 10)

Real Hidden ValleyF - JBMF (page 12)G - Intersection Rock (page 16)H - RHV parking lot (page 17)I - Turtle Rock (page 18)

Lost Horse ValleyJ - Asteroid Belt (page 20)K - Cap Rock I (page 22)L - Cap Rock II (page 23)M - Cap Rock III (page 24)N - Ryan Campground (page 26)

O - Barker Dam (page 28)

Not to Scale

JoshuaTreeBouldering

GuideOverview

a www.drtopo.comproduction

Climb at you own risk.Always check the descent

before going up.Bring water.

Hit the abrasive slopers at the right place.Crank hard and enjoy.