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FLSCC.ORG 2016 Issue #3 Summer

FLSCC Membership

If you have not renewed your membership please visit

www.scconline.org and register. Renewals are due by 30 Decem-ber 2015 for 2016. We want you to continue to be an active

part of FLSCC.

- Officers - Upcoming Events

Page 2 - Announcements Page 3 - Technical ArticlePage7-8 - Employment Page 9 - Newsletter Sponsors

Contents

FLSCC 2015 Officers

Chair Sandy [email protected]

Chair-elect Marisa Bailey [email protected]

SecretaryDiane M. [email protected]

TreasurerStephen Dawes [email protected]

Membership/Bylaws ChairChris [email protected]

Area IV Directors Danielle [email protected]

Michelle [email protected]

Newsletter [email protected]

AdvertisingMarisa [email protected]

RSVP to Chapter [email protected]

Websitehttp://www.flscc.org

SCC National Office120 Wall StreetSte 2400New York, NY 10005-4088(212) 668-1500FAX (212) 668-1504email: [email protected]: www.scconline.org

Upcoming Events

October Meeting13, October 2016 -

IFSCC Congress30 October - 2 November 2016 - Lake Buena Vista, FL

December Meeting & Golf OutingTentative Date: 7th or 8th DecenberCoral Springs Marriott, Ft. Lauderdale

FLSCC CEP COURSE Rescheduled26, January 2017Coral Springs Marriott11775 Heron Bay Blvd, Coral Springs, Fl

FLSCC Sunscreen Symposium13th - 17th, September 2017Disney’s Yacht and Beach ClubLake Buena Vista, Fl

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The Society of Cosmetic Chemists will be the host Society for the 29th Congress of the International Federation of the Societies of Cosmetic Chemists in Orlan-do in October 2016. The event will take place at the Walt Disney World® Resort Dolphin Hotel. The dates will be October 30- November 2, 2016.

We are pleased to announce that there will be an exhibition held on Monday and Tuesday of the Congress similar to the exhibition held during the 2004 Congress. The exhibition will take place in the newly renovated Pacific Hall at the Dolphin Hotel. This Hall was a great venue for the 2004 Congress exhibition and it is sure to be even better for 2016. We are planning some innovative new booth concepts and floor plans for the event, and with close to 2,000 people expected to attend, this will be the “Premier” Exhibition in 2016.

The cost per 10’ x 10’ booth is $5,500. Like 2004, the fee will include one full registration to the entire Congress plus an additional four exhibitor passes.

The Exhibition Hall is filling up fast! Reserve your spot before we sell out!

If you feel your company would like to be an exhibitor, please complete the Exhibitor Interest Form at https://ifscc2016.com/exhibit/exhibitor-or-der-form/ as soon as possible and return the form to the SCC office per the instructions listed on the form. We will ensure you receive the Exhibitor Prospec-tus information.

We look forward to your participation at the Congress!

Complimentary online subscription

SOFW JOURNAL – 1 yearPlease send Promo Code FLSCCSOFWto [email protected]

If your company is interested in sponsoring the Florida Chapter Society of Cosmetic Chemists newsletter, please email us at

[email protected].

Visit our facebook Page!!!We are working to make it easier for you to keep up with your

FLSCC events and activities, check out our Facebook page, like us and stay up to date on activities and let us know what infor-mation would be helpful to include on this page. This is your site, let us know how we can help to build value for you.

https://www.facebook.com/SCCFloridachapter

Save the Date!!Forida Chapter Society of Cosmetic

Chemists

2017 Sunscreen SymposiumSeptember 13-17, 2017

Disney’s Yacht and Beach Club Resort

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Setting up a complete quality assurance program for the microbiological content of cosmetics is an enduring task. Since so many products are water based, the program must place emphasis on the control and inspection of processing water. It is well documented that water is a major source of bacterial contamination in cosmetics.1-4 A technical understanding of a system for the control of processing water is essential for the microbiologist. This article is mainly concerned with this aspect of the microbiological quality assurance of cosmetics. In order to set up a program for the microbiological

quality assurance of cosmetics, the microbiologist must know the FDA regulations and Personal Care Product Council guidelines for cosmetics. A system that will assure the quality of processing water must be properly designed. For that purpose, knowledge of the effectiveness of ultraviolet light and how it works to destroy microbes is important. Methods of enumerating and identifying bacteria must be readily available to the cosmetic microbiologist.

Introduction

The cosmetic microbiologist must perform quality control measurements on finished products for bacterial con-tamination before releasing them for retail. This is necessary to prevent spoilage of the product, the possible spread of disease, and noncompliance with federal and self-imposed regulations. Product spoilage in the forms of altered pH, separated

emulsions, created malodors and discoloration, fungal growths, etc. can be the results of microbes growing and metabolizing in cosmetic products. This loss of aesthetic appeal can lead to product recalls and significant economic losses. Pathogenic bacteria isolated from cosmetics have prov-

en to be etiological agents of disease. Lotions applied to injured skin of burn victims have even produced disease.1,4,5 It has even been shown that mascaras contaminated with bacteria produce injury to the eyes.1,5,6 Companies have a moral responsibility to ensure that their product does not harm the consumer. Such unfortunate events may result in costly litigation and damage to the company’s public image. The FDA compliance program for the microbial con-

trol of cosmetics states that:1. All gram-positive microorganisms present in cosmetic prod-

ucts at levels greater than 1000 per gram must be identified.2. All gram-negative isolates from cosmetic products are to be

identified at any level as to genus and species.1 The FDA’s laws controlling cosmetics are few and the

agency’s authority to regulate these products is limited.7 However, FDA inspectors do check to ensure that proper tests are per-formed for microbiological contamination on all susceptible raw materials. They also inspect production facilities to certify that all equipment coming in contact with the product is cleaned and sanitized as necessary. Not surprisingly, federal regulations regarding microbial

content are more rigorous for drugs than for cosmetics. There-fore in order to avoid expenditures of time and money to comply

with tough federal laws for drugs, manufacturers often formulate in such a manner to have their product labeled as a cosmetic rather than a drug. The Food Drug and Cosmetic Act defines cosmetics

as products whose ingredients are intended to be applied to the human body for cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness, or altering appearance without affecting the body’s anatomy or physiological function. Products that affect anatomy or physiolo-gy are considered drugs. Products like anti-dandruff shampoos, suntan lotions, and antiperspirants are examples that fall into both categories.7 Furthermore, guidelines were prepared by the Personal

Care Products Council Microbiology committee. These guide-lines are an attempt by manufacturers to regulate their prod-ucts without federal intervention. The Personal Care Products Council Microbial Content subcommittee defines a ‘standard’ as an administrative regulation with the force of law and a ‘limit’ as a suggested maximum number of organisms as determined by prescribed methods. The following guidelines were proposed by the subcommittee:1. Baby products should not contain more than 500 microor-

ganisms/ml.2. Products used around the eye region should not contain more

than 500 microorganisms/ml.3. Oral products should not contain more than 1,000 microor-

ganisms/ml.4. All other products should not contain more than 1,000 mi-

croorganisms/ml.

The Control and Examination of the Microbial

Content of Processing Water used in Cosmetic

Preparations

…by Joseph Albanese

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In addition, no product shall have a microbial content recognized as harmful to the user as determined by the standard plate count method.8 All microorganisms need water to survive and water based products are highly susceptible to bacterial con-tamination.9 Products like alcoholic preparations (greater than 25%), deodorants and antiperspirants, bath salts, and aerosol products have low susceptibility to microbial growth. Inspecting raw materials of animal or botanical origin is

important. Even water contains enough organic matter to sustain bacterial growth. The fact that Pseudomonas sp., in particular, can grow in distilled water is well noted.1,2,5,10 Pseudomonas cepacia grown in distilled water can reach levels of 106 to 107 bacteria/ml.5,10 Unfortunately, a normal cosmetic preservative system cannot handle such high bacterial insult incurred during manufacturing. Pseudomonads are the most commonly found contam-

inants isolated from the water-based products. In fact, five of the eighteen different species isolated by Blachman and Elowitz-Jef-fes from cosmetic products were pseudomonads.1 Pseudo-monads are gram-negative pathogens and must be kept out of cosmetics. All this makes processing water perhaps the single most

important raw material worthy of bacterial examination. In order to keep count within acceptable limits the microbiologist must be concerned with the operation of the processing water system.

The Processing Water System

Water used in cosmetic preparations must be as pure as possible. Purity means free from particulate matter, minerals, and bi ological contamination. The more pure the water is the higher its specific resistance (ohm/cm).11 Coarse filters remove particulates and prevent turbidity. UV radiation is commonly used to kill microorganisms. Factors affecting the penetration of UV radiation through the water are turbidity, metal salts, and organic compounds.12 UV light is unable to penetrate glass and therefore the UV lamp must be housed in a quartz sleeve.12,13 Ion exchangers remove minerals from processing water. In any event, eliminating bacteria from water is easier

than waiting for them to contaminate the finished product. This may lead one to ponder, which method is best to remove biologi-cal contamination?There are six methods of killing microorganisms.1. Tyndallization: Three successive 30 min boil/cool cycles.2. Autoclaving: Apply steam (121 °C) at 15 PSI for 20 min.3. Chemical treatment: Treatment with Hg or halogens (Cl, Fl,

and I).4. Millipore filtration: 0.1 to 0.2 μm.5. Radiation treatment: Short wave ultraviolet radiation.6. Pasteurization: 72 °C for 15 min. Five of the methods listed above result in sterility

or 100% kills. The sixth method, pasteurization, removes all pathogenic or disease causing organisms. Only two methods are practical for the removal of microorganisms from processing water. These are Millipore filtration and radiation treatment. A combination of these two methods provides an efficient and practical means of removing microorganisms from processing water.

System Set-up and Maintenance

A schematic diagram of a simple, but proven, process water plant, designed to provide deionized water on-demand, is shown in Figure 1. Even without a holding tank for the deionized water, it is highly recommended that there should be continuous recirculation of water contained in the system to prevent the buildup of a microbial film of bacteria proliferating along the in-terior of pipes and elsewhere. The first in line is the coarse filter, which removes particulates from incoming water. Downstream is the first of two UV lamps, which provides the initial kill. It is followed by two ion exchange filters, which remove cations. This reduces the hardness of the water making it more suitable for cosmetic preparations. It also increases the specific resistance After the ion exchangers, the second UV lamp is positioned. This secondlamp kills any bacteria that survived exposure to the first lamp. It is particularly important to place a UV lamp in-line after the ion exchangers, because the resin beds tend to filter out and accumulate bacteria.5,11 The submicron filter (0.2 μm) is lastin-line at the point of exit. It should be noted that McCarthy points out that water-borne P. diminuta could permeate 0.2 μm filter cartridges.4 The submicron filters not only filter bacteria, but also prevent back contamination. Maintenance of this system includes replacing the UV lamps once per year, or even every six months if in continuous use.12

The UV lamps must be cleaned daily with a mechanical scru ber. In addition, the UV monitor must be examined daily to ensure that the lamps are emitting the correct wavelength of light. The flow rate through the UV purifier must be controlled at 2,400 gallons per hour. The temperature of the quartz sleeve must be maintained at 20 °C. Temperatures higher or lower than this value reduce the germicidal efficiency of the purifier. If bacteria counts are above acceptable limits, the resin

beds must be replaced or flushed with 0.25% formaldehyde for 3–5 hours. An alternate method employs sterimine at a concen-tration of 6 g/ft3 of resin bed. It is important to note that hy-drogen peroxide and cationic germicides are harmful to the resin bed.11 It is important to note that hydroven peroxide and cationic

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germacides are harmful to the resin bed. Finally, part of routine maintenance must include sampling for microbial examination.

Sampling Techniques

Dunnigan suggests that bacteriological tests should be carried out daily on the water, although this may seem exces-sive.5 Weekly sampling should be sufficient in most cases. Water samples must be collected in sterile sample bottles. If residual chlorine is suspected to be present in the sample, 0.1 ml of 10% sodium thiosulfate solution must be added as a de-chlorinating agent. The sample bottle should remain unopened until the mo-ment it is to be filled. The water should be taken from a tap that is not malfunctioning. The tap should be swabbed with alcohol to kill bacteria on its exposed surfaces. Also, the tap should be fully opened and the water allowed to run long enough to remove stagnant water and for the collection of a representative samples. Naturally, the technician collecting the water must be well aware of aseptic techniques.

Function of the UV Lamps

The entire UV radiation spectrum (200–400 nm) is not as efficient from a germicidal perspective as the 200–295 nm range. The mercury vapor lamp converts electrical energy to UV shortwave radiation energy of 254 nm. This is in the region of maximum germicidal effectiveness.14

The dose necessary to kill microorganisms is dependent on time of exposure and intensity of the lamp. The survival ratio of water borne E. coli is given as:

P⁄Po = e -Et⁄Q (1)where: P = avg. number of surviving organismPo = the original number of organisms present

E = lamp intensityt = time of exposure

Q = dose (Et) or exposure; termed a limit lethal exposure foundto be approximately 40 μW•min/cm2

Most bacteria require 6–1,300 μW•s/cm2 for destruc-tion. As two representative examples, P. aeruginosa requires 10,500 μW•s/cm2 and P. fluorescens requires 6,600 μW•s/cm2. UV radiation penetrates right to the “heart” of the

microorganism. It causes genetic damage in the nucleus, causing the DNA to improperly transcribe resulting in total destruction of the microorganism. The modifications to the genetic material are the result of unsaturated bond disruption, in particular to the purine and pyrimidine nucleotides. Covalent bonds are formed between adjacent pyrimidine residues resulting in the formation of pyrimidine dimers. These dimers distort the conformation of the DNA, which interferes with normal base pairing, eventually killing the organisms since they no longer effectively perform transcription and translation.

Enumerating and Identifying Bacteria

The cosmetic microbiologist must be able to identify and en merate bacteria isolated either from raw materials or finished products. Gucklhorn provides two methods for enumer-

ating bacteria: the viable count and total count.15 The viable count assesses the number of living organisms present. It may be performed by any one of several techniques. In each tech-nique, a series of dilutions is made of the test sample. Afixed quantity of each dilution is inoculated into separate samples of nutrient agar. After incubation, the number of colonies is counted and multiplied by the dilution factor to give the num-ber of organisms per ml in the original sample. Three methods for conducting the viable count are: the Pour Plate or Standard Count Method; Roll Tube Method; and the Miles and Misra Method. The total count assesses the number of living and

dead organisms without differentiation. The two methods pro-vided for performing a total count are Brown’s Opacity Tube Method and Helber Counting Chamber Method. Detailed, stepwise procedures for performing these tests are available in an article by Gucklhorn.15

In the analysis of processing water, the most com-monly used methods are the Standard Plate Count, the Most Probable Number (MPN), and Membrane Filtration. An alternative method is the Presumptive Coliform Count. This is perhaps the most used method for assaying water. It is useful for determining not only the amount of coliforms present, but also the presence of other pathogens.15,16

Identification The department head must decide which organisms

to identify. He uses the Personal Care Products Council limit guidelines and FDA regulations to guide his decision. Basically, the organisms that get identified are those termed “objection-able.” These are the organisms that have pathogenic potential, are deleterious to product integrity, or are present in extremely large numbers.1 Strict aerobes and anaerobes can be separated by

controlling the oxygen supply. Incubation temperatures may be set to give optimum growth for either psycrophiles, mesophiles, or thermophiles. Selective media cultivate specific organisms, thereby eliminating those organisms that cannot metabolize the

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nutrients in that media. Before bacteria can be identified, they must be iso-

lated from the product. To carry out this task, a “key” is used, such as Bergey’s Manual of Determinative Bacteriology. Bac-teria are classified according to their morphology, physiology, pathogenicity, and immunological reactions. Perhaps the single most important test to separate and

identify bacteria is the Gram stain. This separates all bacteria into two groups: gram-positive and gram-negative. There are nine steps involved:1. Prepare a bacterial smear.2. Heat fix (prevents washing away of the smear).3. Primary stain (crystal violet penetrates the cell walls of all

bacteria).4. Wait 1 min and wash with water.5. A mordant (fixative) iodine penetrates cell wall complexes

with the crystal violet; forms crystal violet iodine complex (CVIC).6. Wait 1 min and then wash with water.7. Flush with acetone or ethanol for 10 s; gram-positive

– CVIC does not wash away and the organismis stained; gram-negative – CVIC washes away and the organism is color-less.8. Counterstain with a red dye (basic fuschin) for 30 s.9. Wash with water; gram-positive will stain blue; gram-nega-

tive will stain red. After the gram staining procedure is completed, the

cells are examined with a microscope. This provides only some clues toward solving the mystery of identification. This is but one procedure for the identification of bacteria; there are many more in the literature. The identification of pseudomonads is most import-

ant. They are gram-negative rods, obligatorily aerobic, aspo-rogenous, polarly flagellated, usually motile, catalase positive, oxidase variable, and glucose non-fermenting. Identification to

species level requires many different test procedures. Or, bacterial identification kits can be used, which contain many selective me-dia on a single card, which can be used to identify bacteria quickly and easily.

References

1. U. Blachman and L.S. Elowitz-Jeffes, Microbiology of cosmetics—regulatory and quality assurance aspects, Cosmet. Technol., 24-54, January 1982.2. C.L. Goldman, Microorganisms isolated from cosmetics,

Drug Cosmet. Ind., 117, 40-41 (1975).3. T.J. McCarthy, Microbiological control of cosmetic products,

Cosmet. Toil., 95(8), 23 (1980).4. S. Tenenbaum, Microbiological limit guidelines for cosmetics

and toiletries, CTFA Cosmet. J., 4(3), 25-32.(1972).5. A.P. Dunnigan, Microbiological control of cosmetic products,

Proc. Joint Conf. Cosmet. Sci., Toilet Goods Association, Wash-ington, D.C., pp. 179 (1968).6. L.A. Wilson, J.W. Kuehne, S.W. Hall, and D.G. Ahearn, Micro-

bial contamination in ocular cosmetics, Am. J. Ophthalmol., 71, 1298-1302 (1971).7. H.J. Eiermann, FDA regulation of cosmetics, Cosmet. Toil.,

98(4), 67-71 (1983).8. J.G. Mone, Ultraviolet water purification, Pollution Eng. Mag.,

5(12), (1973).9. S.R. Marouchoc, Cosmetic preservation, Cosmet. Technol.,

38-44, October 1980.10. L.A. Carson, M.S. Favero, W.W. Bond, and N.J. Petersen,

Morphological, biochemical, and growth characteristics of Pseudomonas cepacia from distilled water, Appl. Microbiol., 25, 476-483 (1973).11. M.G. DeNavarre, The Chemistry and Manufacture of Cos-

metics, Vol. II, D. Van Nostrand Co.: Princeton, NJ (1962).12. C.B. Huff, H.F. Smith, W.D. Boring, and N.A. Clarke, Study

of ultraviolet disinfection of water andfactors in treatment efficiency, Public Health Rep., 80, 695-705

(1965).13. B.M. Mitruka and M.J. Bonner, Methods of Detection and

Identification of Bacteria, CRC Press: Cleveland,OH (1977).14. R.Y. Stanier, J.L. Ingraham, M.L. Wheelis, and P.R. Painter,

The Microbial World, Prentice Hall: EnglewoodCliffs, NJ (1986).15. I.R. Gucklhorn, Cosmetic microbiology, Manufact. Chem.

Aerosol News, 23-35, December 1968.16. A.D. Eaton, L.S. Clesceri, A.E. Greenberg, and M.A.H. Fran-

son., Standard Methods for the Examination ofWater and Wastewater, American Public Health Association,

American Water Works Association (1995).

This article was originally published in Cosmetiscope, Vol. 33, No. 3, pp. 1-6 (2016).

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Employment Opportunities Formulation Chemist – Personal and Home Care

http://nexeo.taleo.net/careersection/jobdetail.ftl?job=12375&lang=en#.V2skyR_2OWQ.mailto

Nexeo Solutions is the largest global chemical and plastics distributor with a centralized business model. With operations worldwide, Nexeo offers over 26,000 products used in a broad cross-section of industries, including chemicals manufacturing, oil and gas, paints and coatings, automotive, healthcare and personal care. We are currently recruiting for a Formulation Chemist that has obtained a Bachelor level degree in Chemistry or other related

technical degree with a minimum of 5 years of R&D formulation experience in the Personal Care industry. Candidates must have new formulation development experience, reverse engineering and formulation evaluation experience specific to Hair, Sun, Skin Care and emulsion products. Experience with HI&I (Home, Industrial and Institutional) is also highly desired. Please apply by emailing your resume directly to Michael Gruen at Nexeo Solutions using [email protected] or

by following the link, creating a profile and applying to the position.

Mary Kay

Job Description:

Provides technical support and direction for preservative formulation efforts, method development, and regula-

tory compliance.

Serves as a liaison between Mary Kay Inc., international affiliate companies, and subcontractors for preservative formulation, formula risk assessments, testing, and troubleshooting.

Coordinates and ensures timely response to R&D formula preservative requests, follow up on issues and specifi-cation input/approval.

Serves as a global Microbiology technical specialist on issues relating to microbial quality and formulation micro-bial risk.

Experience

Bachelor’s Degree in Microbiology or Biology Minimum 7-10 years

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AIG Technologies

Senior Lab Technician Role and Responsibilities

Role

Supervision of the laboratory and associated personnel and priorities.

Primary Responsibilities:

• Perform laboratory test of raw materials, bulk and finished product samples.• Management and recording of third party laboratory results related to raw material, bulk and finished product

samples.• Oversight of laboratory processes relative to SOPs, STPs and cGLPs.• Ensure equipment maintenance and calibrations are properly performed.• Management of in-house stability protocols for finished product.• Collaborate in laboratory investigations.• Writing, review, and feedback of laboratory related SOPs and STPs.• Maintain laboratory supplies inventory.

When not performing the responsibilities listed above, this individual would be expected to work in whatever capacity is needed at the time. This might include special projects, product development, filling, or assistance in the manufac-ture of bulk product.

Skills Required

• Previous laboratory experience.• Ability to work independently with minimal supervision.• Ability to perform complex mathematical calculations.• Computer literate in MS Excel and Word.

Education Required

• Biology or Chemistry degree.

Language Required

English (Speaking, Reading, and Writing)Bilingual a plus, but not required

Manufacturing Facility Location:

5001 NW 13th AvenueSuite BDeerfield Beach, FL 33442

Hours of operation:

7:30a.m. – 4:00pm (M-F)

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If your company is interested in sponsoring the Florida Chapter Society of Cosmetic Chemists newsletter, please email us at [email protected].

2016 Newsletter Sponsors

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of CareDimensions

Visit us at IFSCC / Booth 606 and explore how we consider culture, science and innovation to help the personal care industry reveal the holistic beauty of consumer in every region of the world

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If your company is interested in sponsoring the Florida Chapter Society of Cosmetic Chemists newsletter, please email us at [email protected].

)/6&& 2IÀFHUV 8SFRPLQJ(YHQWV !#$$% &'()'*+,-. · suntan lotions, and antiperspirants are examples...

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