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January/February 2017

SquealsThe official newsletter of Costumer’s Guild West, Inc.®

2 - Squeals, the official newsletter of Costumer’s Guild West, Inc.® -

From the President: Mela Hoyt-Heydon

Welcome to 2017! I really hope that this upcoming year is so much better for all of you. It has been a rough year for so many of our members and the nation as a whole and so I look at this year as an opportunity for each of us to have a clean slate (even though I think we would all prefer a clean sewing room!) on which we can each create the year we want. CGW is helping to make that possible with all sorts of meet ups, events and workshops scheduled to get your creative juices going. Tea at the Biltmore, ice skating in Pershing Square, viewing “Hidden Figures” and that is in just one day! (I wonder if they will let you book a room at the Biltmore for the day just so one could change three times?) Then don’t forget to stock up on gold fabric before everyone else wants a Belle gown so you can join CGW at “Beauty and the Beast” in splendor. (Oh come on, admit it, we all love poufy dresses!)

Now is also the time to think about what you have to offer teaching wise for Costume

College 2017. Sometimes we think that everyone else is so much more knowledgeable than we are and that we have nothing to offer but this is so untrue! Everyone has some sort of skill, talent or expertise that they can share. Do you make a petticoat that you wear under four different time periods and no one is the wiser since you never lift your skits at an event? (No, only can can dancers do that!) Are you an expert at whipping out a bonnet just hours before an event? (No sewing and driving please!) Is that a zipper hiding underneath that supposedly button up bustle gown so you can get dressed by yourself? (I actually have one of those and no one is the wiser until now) These skills are just as important to share as being able teach how to fit a corset or construct a Worth gown. The Costume College website has the teacher forms up for 2017 and I hope you will all consider throwing your hat into the ring as a possible instructor. I know I am offering to teach an “all day” workshop on Thursday. (Any requests?) Until next month, wishing you a very Happy New Year and may all your shears be sharp!

Mela Hoyt-HeydonCGW President

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- Squeals, the official newsletter of Costumer’s Guild West, Inc.® - 3

You’re reading Squeals: The official newsletter of Costumer’s Guild West, Inc.®January/February 2017. Volume 33, Number 1.

Article Submisson for the Next Issue Due february 14!

Squeals would not be possible without contributions from members. Please consider sharing your knowledge and experience with others by submitting articles, photographs, and reviews.

Send your contributions to the editor at [email protected]. All e-mail messages received are assumed to be for publication unless specifically marked do not print or do not quote. We’re always looking for articles on costume-related subjects. Please include photos as attachments.

ContentsFrom the President. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .From the Editor-in-chief . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .From the Costume College Dean . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Thursday Night Pool Party . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Costume College Market Place . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Costume College Guest Teacher . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Princess Alice . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Inspiration and Primary Sources . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Book Review . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Creating Squeals . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Recent Events . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . CGW Goes To . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Fashion Shows . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Upcoming Events . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Help Wanted . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Colophon & Contacts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

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From the Editor-in-chief:Athena Dryden

Happy New Year All! I apologize for the delay in this issue reaching you. I has been difficult to get each issue out for each month in a timely manner when the schedule has been so behind. In an effort to “catch up” and keep everyone informed of the current events and news I have combined the January and February issues!

The March issue will arrive at the beginning of March. Accordingly I ask that all stories, photos, and events be sent in to me by February 14!

Thank you!Athena [email protected]


From the 2017 Costume College Dean:Heather PritchettSo I should be writing the next Costume College update. I should be telling you that we’ve been accepting class submissions since Mid-December. Instead i’m still mourning Carrie Fisher and Debbie Reynolds. I’m re-reading Wishful Drinking and binge-watching the original Star Wars trilogy.

[Warning: Long ramble ahead. Skip down to the bottom for the important Costume College stuff.]

At first, I wasn’t quite sure why Carrie Fisher’s death hit me so hard. I was always a huge fan of Princess Leia, but she was the only significant female character in the original Star Wars trilogy, so I didn’t have many options. Thankfully, she was a bad-ass. As I grew older, I got a few more options in the Star Wars female pantheon. The prequels brought Queen Amidala and her excellent fashion taste, as well as Zam Wesell and her awesome purple armor, not to mention a large group of women with light sabers. All of these made for great costume fodder, despite their movies having subpar plot, but none of them really inspired me outside of the outfits they wore. When Force Awakens came out my heart sang with happiness and not just because of Rey (who was freaking awesome) it was because of GENERAL LEIA! GENERAL LEIA! The heroine of my childhood had grown up. She was an older woman and she _still_ kicked ass. She was a leader. She was a mom. And she kept on fighting. She was everything I wanted to be when I grew up. Over the last few years I was also becoming reacquainted with Carrie Fisher as a person. I had always followed her life and its ups and downs. I read and loved her books. I cheered for her and cried for her. The Force Awakens brought her back into the spotlight and I loved her even more. Her life had been a bumpy one and she was always honest about all the highs and lows. She was wickedly open about losing weight (or not), agism, mental illness and her thoughts on Princess Leia’s space bikini. She was an amazing person who had mostly conquered her demons, didn’t care what you thought and was finally getting the positive attention she deserved. And then she was gone. Thank you, Carrie, for being a real life General Leia. For always fighting the Imperials and for being honest, funny and inspiring, on and off screen.

And before I could buy more tissue, Debbie Reynolds followed her. Unlike her daughter, my love of Debbie wasn’t rooted in her movie roles, but rather in what she did when she finished filming. As most of you are probably aware, Debbie Reynolds was an avid collector who preserved thousands of movie costumes before anyone believed there was a reason to save them. I remember being very frustrated that Debbie was never able to find a home for her massive collection and finally auctioned many of the pieces off back in 2011. The auction house (which is based in southern California) put the costumes on display for two days in Beverly Hills right before the auction. I took off from work and drove out to see them. Thank you, Debbie, for allowing me to see up close and personal My Fair Lady’s ascot race dress and hat, Dorthy’s blue dress and ruby slippers, Cleopatra’s slinky gold gown and many many more.

[Important stuff below...]Hi Everyone! It’s the monthly-ish update from your 2017 Dean. As I write this (Feb 1st) the Programming Team is hard at work getting ready for the “Wall Party”. That’s our name for the day long event where we assemble the Costume College schedule. It’s a pretty complex system with a lot of data that has to be beat into shape by half a dozen volunteers. They’ve been going through the class database and trying to make sure we have everything we need to create the schedule. We have so many new and awesome class submissions! It’s going to be tough to narrow it down!


I want to give a quick shout out to the hard working programming team, who are all burning the midnight oil this week.

Programming Teacher Liaison, Maria AceitunoProgramming Student Liaison, Tracey GorinAssistant Students, Karen NorrisAssistant Teachers, Sara ReeveAssistant Proofreader, Jane CadieuxAssistant Panic Room, Tamara NorrisAssistant, Andrew Schmidt

While programming is cranking away everyone else is hard at work writing articles for the registration book. The new slew of deadlines coming up for the committee are all related to our printing schedule. All the articles are turned in, reviewed by myself and Val, the Assistant Dean, and then our super talented Publications Team, Rebecca Lowell and her assistant, Julia Thomas, add the magic which will be, eventually, arriving in student’s mailboxes around mid April.

If you’re local, please mark April 8th on your calendar. That will be our registration packet stuffing event at which volunteers stuff the 400 or so envelopes with the final registration book and additional materials for students. Bonus: Volunteers get to pick up their packets and get a first look!

Thanks for reading!

Heather Pritchett - Cont.

Thursday Night Pool Party Happiest Place on Earth

(Disneyland)

As we all prepare for Costume College Squeals will share inspiration for each planned event.

Disneyland offers a wealth of possiblites, but these excerpts from Midwest Magazine, April 9, 1961, are special. These photographs and captions are original to the article.

Five o’clock, add a turban, meet your date and go!

Greet them like a modern southern belle, whether along the shores of the Mississippi, or outside Disneyland’s Oak Tree Tavern.


Passengers on board Disneyland’s new Columbia sailing ship will

never get scurvy… especially if handsomely suited in gay

tangerine.

There’s just no telling what might happen when you choose high-waisted banana capris & a clown blouse.

Big game falls readily to a safari swim suit with matching

jacket.

Why is a raven like a writing desk? Who cares when you look like this!

Off the port bow… a cool cotton caftan, side slashed!


So how does one get to sell in the Marketplace at Costume College? Why aren’t there more vendors and why can’t we have a large Marketplace? Why wasn’t my favorite vendor there last year? Why are there always the same vendors? Why don’t we have a vendor selling 18th Century goods, 1940’s makeup, or period shoes? These and many more questions are asked after every Costume College and so I thought I would try and answer them.

During the CGW Board meeting in October, if the agenda allows time, the Board discusses whether or not the cost of a vendor space should stay the same as the year before or increase. (This year it is staying the same as it has been for the last three years which is the lowest price for any vendor space that I know of. I just participated as a vendor for the 2 day Dapper Day Expo held at the Disneyland Hotel and my” double space” was the size of a single space at Costume College and cost me $1200.00 as opposed to the cost of $125.00 it would have cost me at Costume College! ) Once the price is decided upon, the vendor application goes up on the Costume College website under Marketplace (usually by December 1, but this year it went up in November) and it is available for vendors to fill out and send to the Marketplace Coordinator to be received by February 18. In addition, the notice about applications being available is posted on the Costume College Facebook page and all vendors from the previous year are sent an email letting them know that the application has been posted online. The Facebook notice also asks members to let anyone they know who could be a possible vendor that applications are available.

As each application is received, it is numbered by postmark (those received on the same day get the same number), placed in box but the envelopes are not opened at this time. When the deadline is reached for the applications to be in the Coordinator’s hands, several vendors actually hand deliver their applications. Any late applications are also numbered but placed in a different box labeled “backup vendors.”

While we do not know how many vendors we can accept, we do know how many spaces there are. The ballroom that is used is the largest space available in the hotel unless we lose the space that the Bargain Basement and the costume exhibit’s use. Costume College uses every available public space in the hotel and there just isn’t another room larger. In the past, we were allowed to place up to two vendors in the hallways but as of 2016, the fire marshal vetoed that as the crowds around these vendors blocked the hallways for too long a time, thus creating a fire hazard. It is fine to have a few tables that one or two people visit at a time such as the volunteer table, but the vendor spaces were attracting too large of crowds.

The week just after the applications are due, the Marketplace Coordinator and if there is an assistant or a Co-Coordinator, meet and open the envelopes placing a 1 or a 2 on each envelope denoting whether the vendor wants one or two spaces. Then each application is read to see what type of products the vendor wishes to sell at Costume College. Those that are applying for the first time are supposed to include pictures of their products, while those who have participated before can just list the type of products they wish to carry. Vendors are sorted into piles of like products (jewelry, vintage clothing, fabric and trims, etc). Piles that only have one vendor in them are looked at first because we would like to have as many different types of products available for sale as possible. If they are costume related in any way and we feel that the Costume College attendees would be interested in buying their products, it is noted how many spaces each needs and these are deducted from the total of spaces available. Those selling items not costume related such as herbs and spices, Jamberry nails, pewter mugs, and dragons are placed in the backup box.

Next the piles with multiple applications (jewelry is usually the largest) are read, trying to select

Costume College Market Place-How is a Vendor Selected?By Mela Hoyt-Heydon


those that do not overlap the most. No vendor wants other vendors selling the same product. Then it comes down to who got their application in first and how many spaces they want. Last year at the deadline we had a full house of costume related vendors and any application that came in late, (there were 7 slots of costume related vendors that arrived late and I am not talking about a day or two, but 6 weeks to 3 months late!), was numbered and placed in the backup box in case of early cancellations. As it turned out, there was one cancellation in 2016 before Costume College started and the vendor who turned in their application late but before the other late applications got a slot.

Why you see some of the same vendors year after year is that they apply on time and sell a product the members want enough that it makes it worthwhile for the vendor to want to return. Why is your favorite vendor missing some years? Many vendors alternate Costume College with other venues, many vendors are not good about getting their applications in on time and are surprised when all the slots are filled by the deadline, and other vendors decide they would rather attend Costume College as a student or teacher rather than stay all day in the vendor’s room and sell.

So why are certain vendors that you know go to other conventions not applying to Marketplace if we are so reasonable in cost? It is the size of our convention. Comic Con-200,000 attendees, Dapper Day-16,000 attendees, Wonder Con-10,000 attendees, Costume College-500 attendees. It is not profitable for many vendors to travel to California with their product, spend 2 nights in a hotel, and pay for 7 meals per person working along with possibly wages in order to sell to a crowd of 500. If each and every person at Costume College spent $100 that would be $50,000 divided by 20 vendors, which would give each vendor $2500 before they paid for their goods (which is usually half the retail cost) and their expenses. Not a good profit margin and that is why vendors seldom come from out of state and we are unable to get vendors such as Remax (1920-40’s shoes) or Pin Up Girl Clothing. Also, many of our members own costume related businesses but want to come and participate at Costume College not come and work. This is their vacation.

So there is still time for you to encourage your favorite seller of costume related items to apply for Costume College Marketplace 2017! Just remind them to get their completed, written application into my hands by February 18, 2017 so Lois Munera our new Marketplace Assistant and I can try to put together a wonderful shopping experience for you in July. Next month, I will write about what a Market Place Coordinator does throughput the year and how one is given that position.

Costume College 2017 Hotel ReminderOur hotel for Costume College 2017 is the Warner Center Marriott, located at 21850 Oxnard Street, Woodland Hills, California 91367.

The room rate for 2017 is $134 for single, double, triple, or quad.

Also included in our special group rate:*Discounted overnight self parking at $15 plus tax per vehicle per night*Discounted breakfast buffet at $17 plus tax*Complimentary Wireless internet in guest room

These rates are available until our room block sells out, which is often in February or even earlier.

To reserve your room at the special rate of $134 per night, please follow the link on www.costumecollege.net or call the hotel directly. Be sure to request the Costume College 2017 rate.

For general Marriott Warner Center hotel questions, feel free to call the hotel directly at 818-887-4800.


Announcing Our Guest Teacher for Costume College 2017By Valarie LaBoreWhen I started looking around for a special guest teacher for Costume College 2017, my first thought was to bring in cosplay, since I was fascinated by the cosplayers doing “Game of Thrones” and “Outlander” characters. And I know many of them use historical clothing as part of it. It would also bring in a lot of new blood of those interested in anime costuming.

I started putting feelers out to some of my friends who do cosplay and anime, and Twila Taylor suggested Jez Roth, a well-known cosplay designer in Las Vegas. She introduced us via Facebook, and immediately after seeing his photos, I knew we HAD TO HAVE HIM. Jez has an amazing list of work he’s done and his connections to Cirque du Soleil really sold me. Just take a look at his biography he sent me.

Jez Roth started sewing at the age of 13 on small crafts, and at the local dance studio, before falling in love with the art of cosplay at Katsucon 1998 (Ed.- a cosplay convention). His work covers Cirque du Soleil. Nightclubs. ONE PIECE. Olympians. Red Carpets. Electric Daisy Carnival. Film. Commercials. Music Videos. After many years of competing at anime convention masquerades, winning Best in Show 15 times with tailored costumes and heavily choreographed skits, he moved to Las Vegas to work for The Venetian designing the Opera Gowns, eventually landing at Cirque du Soleil’s water spectacular, “O”. Cirque’s methods have changed from show to show and the result is fascinating. Some of their work is truly couture and/or historically patterned. Since leaving Cirque, he currently works freelance out of his own studio – creating everything from mermaids that shoot water, Mirrorball Men, and Golden Fairies that contort through the air, designing for events with A-list celebrities such as Kim Kardashian, Eva Langoria, Snoop Dogg, and DJs such as Benny Benassi, Dash Berlin. His jewelry has even been worn on the red carpet at the Billboard Awards.

He has traveled as far as Japan as a cosplay guest and represented the United States at the IOEA

Jez Roth


Otaku Expo in Japan, and Canada to choose the Canadian WCS representative. He believes that the world of costuming is an endlessly fascinating pursuit – from armor to gowns, giant puppetry to monsters and his goal to share unique events that educate and involve the community such as his Lip Sync for Your Cosplay Event. His artistic journey came full circle last year when he was hired as an Artistic Consultant for One Piece: Gold film, working with Toei Animation to give their film a fully realized Las Vegas feel.

His current obsession is creating costumes that give the illusion of looking like metal, armor, plastic, but are 100% fabric.


Original photo (left) of HRH The Princess Alice, second daughter of HM Queen Victoria. Reproduction (below) of this gown made for Ashli Welsh, who portrays Princess Alice at the Riverside Dickens Festival each February. The reproduction gown is made from olive silk dupioni, appliqued with black silk dupioni around the hem and on the sleeves. Buttons down the front are covered with black silk dupioni and encircled with flowers of black lace. Gown is worn with white cotton chemisette, undersleeves, white net gloves and matching reticule.

Princess AliceBy Janet Clark


Members: Please consider submitting your stories and projects too!

Day gown replica (left) made of bittersweet and copper silk dupioni from the photo of Princess Alice (above). The reproduction is worn with an ivory blouse of cotton batiste, trimmed to match the original with tea-stained lace on collar and cuffs. Ivory net gloves, silk dupioni Medici belt and matching reticule in copper (not shown).

Ball gown replicated from the original picture (above). In the photograph on the right, Princess Alice is shown with Queen Victoria (portrayed by Janet Clark). Both gowns were copied from photos and a painting from the period which shows the original gowns were peach and blue respectively. Both of the reproductions were made from silk dupioni, accented with deep lace overlays, and vintage kidskin long gloves. The Queen wears the royal regalia and carries a hand crocheted reticule made especially for her by a friend.


Inspiration and Primary SourcesBy Virginia MekkelsonPaper Dolls

Looking for Costume Ideas and Inspiration?Take a Look at PAPER DOLLS!

Paper Dolls are enjoying a revival. For a quick intro, call up “Paperdoll Review” ( paperdollreview.com) and you’ll find a whole world of beautiful costume ideas to borrow – or steal outright.There are paper dolls for every costume interest. Available are beautiful books devoted to major

designers, like Christian Dior, all the way through to your favorite fictional characters (Jane Austen lovers, get ready to swoon). Famous people and celebrities from Cleopatra and Marie Antoinette to Michelle Obama have their own books displaying their real or imagined wardrobes. Your favorite movie stars show costumes from their films as well as their “red carpet” gowns. Reprints from the Golden Age of Paper dolls, the 40’s and 50’s, are now available. Find costumes from around the world and through the ages, including alternative Steampunk time periods. You’ll find costumes for all six wives of Henry VIII and suggestions for your Civil War re-enactment project. There are many paper doll books available for the first half of the 20th Century, and you’ll find books on 60’s fashion in time for Costume College. There are books of fantasy as well as books rooted in careful historical research.

Of Special Interest to Costumers: First, paper dolls usually come with a full wardrobe. They have underpinnings, night clothes, party clothes, work clothes, tea dresses, walking suits, sports costumes, whatever a well-dressed paper doll needs for a full life.

Second, many of the clothes are already costumes. If it’s from a movie, it’s a costume. Of course, with fairy tales and fictional characters it’s all costume. Costumes often use bolder colors and have interesting, specialized details with fancy shoes, hats and other accessories, that costumers can adapt.

Third, the illustration of the clothes, because of the size of the format (usually 8.5” x 11” or 9.5” x 11.5”) calls for some simplification; this helps shows off the basic line and silhouette, making it easier for the costumer to see the


essentials.

My New Paper Doll Books:I recently ordered some paper doll books with making costumes in mind, and they have filled my head with ideas. ART DECO FASHIONS, by Tom Tierney, gives the year and designer for every outfit given, and it has the Fortuny “Delphos” gown that I covet! Clothes range from 1911 to a 1937 Schiaparelli “Surrealist” gown.

Second book was MARIE ANTOINETTE, QUEEN OF FRANCE, by Helen Page. The 12 gowns given dress the Queen for everything from horseback riding and playing shepherdess to Court appearances and parties.

Finally, and a huge favorite already, MASQUERADE PARTY PAPER DOLLS, by Sandra Vanderpool. Costumes are from the 1920’s, when masquerade parties were huge. It’s like finding costumes from a forgotten trunk in the attic. It’s a reminder that every age, or decade, views the past through its own unique lens. I am anxious to make a couple of costumes in the style shown.

I have a Grumpy Cat paper doll book, too. But Grumpy makes it clear that cats hate to dress up.

Check out the Paperdoll Review website – and glance through their catalog. They often have free paper dolls you can download and print out. I now subscribe to the Paperdoll Review, which is a four issue subscription. You can get their catalog for $3.00. Have fun.


Book ReviewCharles James: Designer in DetailBy Athena Dryden

Charles James (1906-78) was a fashion designer most know for his ready-to-wear garments and fine women’s couture. V&A Publishing’s Charles James: Designer in Detail takes the reader into the world of fine couture of the 20th century.

The book features a nice introduction to James’ personal history, from his beginnings in a typical upper-class Edwardian family in England to his experiences in art schools and eventually the opening of his Chicago hat shop in 1926. In 1927 the Chicago Sunday Tribune described James as “one of the rare mortals who knows what he wants and gets it through sheer grit and determination. Alone, against what most of us would consider fearful odds, he has made his own place here...”

Through the narrative the reader learns about the business and design successes of James, as well as his failures. One

Butterfly Evening Dress, 1954Courtesy of Chicago History Museum, Given

by Mrs John V. Farwell IIIMrs William Randolph Hearst, Jr Full-Length Form, 1955Courtesy of Museum of Art, Rhode Island School of Design, Providence

story related in the book describes his difficulties with his ready-to-wear contracts of the 1940s and 1950s, “On one occasion, James walked into the premises of a fur manufacturer with a glass jar full of moths, screaming that if they didn’t make the designs to his wishes, he would set the moths free.”

From someone who had only know James through the magnificent textiles creations that survive


Charles James: Designer in Detail,

V&A Publishing, 2015

Evening Dress, 1952Courtesy of Brooklyn Museum Costume Collection at The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Gift of the Brooklyn Museum, 2009; Gift of Mrs. R. A. Bernatschke, 1955

Diamond, 1957Courtesy of Brooklyn Museum Costume Collection at The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Gift of the Brooklyn Museum, 2009; Gift of Mr. and Mrs. Jean de Menil, 1959

James Working on Padded Form, c.1945

Courtesy of The Metropolitan Museum of Art

him, the back story of financial difficulties and failed business ventures paints another complex aspect to his story.

Another aspect of the story focuses on the understructures of James’ gowns that so distinctly define his productions. As mentioned, “By the mid-1940s, it became increasingly apparent that James was unable to find materials that could meet his needs. So instead, he created new fabrics by quilting layers of natural and man-made textiles together to acheive the thickness, stiffness or flexibility he needed for a specific design. There are some unique images of the understructures and James’ process in the pages for study.

Perhaps the most exciting aspect of the book are the fine color photographs of different gowns, with accompanying sketches and text analyzing each design.

This book serves as a great inspiration and starting point for anyone wishing to recreate a costume in Charles James’ style. Whether you are inclined to draft a pattern from scratch, or adjust a commercially available version this book may help you fill in the gaps to create the overall image you wish to create.


Creating SquealsBy Athena Dryden

Over the last couple issues of Squeals there have been features that shed light on the business of CGW and the process by which activites are completed. In this spirit I wanted to bring the membership a glimpse in the production of Squeals!

My professional experience is the in the museum world, mostly artifacts and exhibits, but this sometimes overlaps with the text and design aspects of displays. Consequently I have done some work with Adobe InDesign, formatting text panels, captions, etc. I am by no means an expert on graphic design, but I know just enough to get by.

The process for creating Squeals each month is not difficult as a whole, but can be time consuming. Some members of the CGW board have regular articles they share each month, as well as any additional articles that are related to their activities. The Corresponding Secretary wrangles all of these in from the members, requesting more information or clarification as needed. The rest of the issue consists of member submitted content, such as feature articles on their research, accounts of events recently attended, etc. Any holes in the layout are then filled in by articles by the Corresponding Secretary, or if there happens to be an extra story that did not fit in a past issue that is included.

On the surface this process should not be hard, but we all know this is a volunteer organization so each member is constantly balancing their personal and professional lives with the time they are able to spend on CGW activities. This can sometimes result in more content about some peoples interests, with little about others. It is not intentional and we are constantly trying to make sure there is something for everyone. This is why it so important for each member to contribute to Squeals. We truly are member generated and oriented, what we get from the membership is what everyone else sees.

I would like to encourage each member to consider what they would like to see more of in Squeals, as well as what they might be able to contribute so that others may learn from their experiences. It can be intimidating to think of having your work published for everyone to see, but we are a group of peers dedicated to learning from each other. None of us would be where we are without the guidance and inspiration of others!

If you have years of costuming experience, we would love to have you share your expertise with everyone else. What book is your go-to source, how do you find inspiration, what subject have you done extensive research on? Consider putting together a short article with photographs to share with everyone, even if you think it is something everyone knows there will be people interested in hearing it. For those new to costuming that do not feel comfortable writing a feature, or feel like their experience is not extensive enough, please remember everyone started somewhere and your contributions will help others on their journey.

Another place that we always need more assistance is in documenting the wonderful costuming events we all attend! Whether is a CGW Goes To event, or something indepedent, it is great to have a brief description of the activities and photographs of everyone’s beautiful outfits. Anyone can write a short paragraph to document their experience and share it with members. This helps everyone see what they should participate in in the future. I would also request that members consider sending in photographs of their creations for inclusion on the front and back covers. It is a great way to showcase your hard work!

Currently the best way to share your stories and photographs is by sending an email to [email protected]. However, you can also post to the CGW Facebook page with your account of an event and photos, just make a not or send me a message that we can use the content in Squeals! Next deadline is February 14!


Recent EventsCGW Goes to Afternoon Tea and Ice-SkatingCGW members met up for afternoon tea at the Biltmore Hotel, in the Rendezvous Court followed by ice-skating in Pershing Square. There was fun had by all!

Photographs Courtesy of Tracy Gomez


CGW Goes To...CGW Goes to The Revolution 2017Date: February 11-12, 2017Suggested Meetup Date: TBDCGW Liaison: TBD *Please let us know if you are interested in being our Liaison. Check the Facebook Event Page for an update.The Revolution! The 2nd Annual reenactment of the American Revolutionary War in Huntington Beach. The weekend event is hosted by the Huntington Beach Historical Society. The event opens to the public at 10:00am on Saturday and 9:00am on Sunday.

Costume Suggestions: Bring out your 18th century finery!

Location/Time: Huntington Beach Central Park, 18000 Goldenwest St, Huntington Beach, CA 92647

CGW’s Facebook Event Page: https://www.facebook.com/events/1659149011082418/

CGW Goes to Teens Era Petticoat WorkshopDate: February 18, 2017Time: 10:00 amCGW Liaison: Colleen CrosbyLocation: Redondo Beach (Actual location will be provided upon registration for the class) In connection with the continuation of compiling your Teens Era wardrobe Costumer’s Guild West, Inc. is hosting an 8 hr. workshop for constructing a Teens era petticoat.

This is the third workshop in the CGW Teens Series! At the end of the day, you should have a mostly-completed slip to wear under 1909-1916-style dresses. This will be your foundation for Late Edwardian clothing, including events for Titanic, season 1 of Downton Abbey, Early Automobile (Model T), and Doctor Zhivago. The class will be taught by Natalie Meyer. She will provide all the materials necessary for the construction, including a pattern. The student must provide a sewing machine and a basic sewing kit. Patterns will be drafted for each student. Class participation is limited. Please see the CGW Event’s page for complete details and registration http://129.121.107.232/~costumer/category/events/


CGW Goes to Disney’s Live Action Beauty & the Beast Release Date: March 17, 2017Suggested Meetup Date: March 18, 2017CGW Liaison: Emily BennionGeneral Theater Location: West Los Angeles, CA

Join CGW in seeing Disney’s new (live) adaptation of Beauty & the Beast. “An adaptation of the classic fairy-tale about a monstrous prince and a young woman who fall in love.”

Costume Suggestions: Dress to the time the tale was first published in 1740, take inspiration from the animated film, or dress with the new version in mind. However, feel free to join in modern clothes as well.Location/Time to be updated once the CGW Liaison decides

CGW’s Facebook Event Page: https://www.facebook.com/events/572786459572719/

CGW Goes to King Arthur: Legend of the SwordRelease Date: March 19, 2017 Suggested Meetup Date: TBDCGW Liaison: TBDGeneral Theater Location: Liaison’s Choice!

Robbed of his birthright after the murder of his father, Arthur (Charlie Hunnam) acknowledges his true legacy after pulling a sword from a stone. Director: Guy Ritchie.

Costume Suggestions: Bring out your Renaissance wear and join CGW for a viewing. Looking for a liaison, contact [email protected] if you are interested!


Downton Abbey Fashion ShowThe Muzeo Museum in Anaheim is putting on a tea in conjunction with their Dressing Downton costume exhibit and has asked the CGW to provide the models for the fashion show being held during the tea. They are giving a generous donation to our scholarship fund and Mela, our CGW President, will be doing the show commentary. She is looking for CGW members and friends who own 1900 to late 1920’s clothing and would like to wear their clothing in a fashion show on March 5, 2017 at the Muzeo (241 S. Anaheim Boulevard, Anaheim, CA 92805). Mela is hoping

for 20 models and models may wear more than one outfit in the show if they wish. Both day and evening clothes are welcome, including menswear.

The tea starts at 1:00, with Mela’s commentary starting approx. at 1:15, so models would need to have arrived, checked in with Karen Lavoie our model coordinator and Den Mom and be completely dressed by then. There is a room to change in, several clothing racks, mirrors and two of Mela’s students will be assisting with clothing changes and back fastening gowns. Maps and written instructions will be sent to each model at least one week prior to the event. Please email Mela at [email protected] if you are available to model, how many outfits, whether you are modeling day and/or evening and an approximate date each garment represents (1908, 1910, 1920, etc) by February 12 so she can put the program together.Please help support the CGW Scholarship program while you get to dress in and show off your finery while also getting to see the wonderful exhibit, Dressing Downton at The Muzeo which will be it’s only West Coast showing.


The annual Fashion Show at Heritage Square Museum in Los Angeles will be held this year on Saturday, April 15, 2017. The theme of this year’s show will be “Famous Women (and a few men!)”

If you have something you would like to model and you would like to participate, I would love to have you join us. Don’t have a famous woman in mind? No worrys. You just tell me what you would like to model and I will find a famous (or perhaps even infamous!) woman to go with it.

The call time for the models is usually 9:30 and with the show starting at 11:00. Lunch and drinks will be provided.

If you’re interested, contact me at [email protected] or 818-956-1303.

Please send your stories, photos, scholarly advice, book review, etc to [email protected].

Without wonderful content from our members we would not be able to produce each issue!

Heritage Square Fashion Show


Please consider writing a brief article, with or without photos, about any event that you attend. We are always looking for articles of interest to our readers.

Upcoming Events

February 4 -Viennese Nights: A Grand Victorian Ball, Balboa Park Club, San Diego. http://www. orgsites.com/ca/sdvdance/February 18 -CGW Goes to Teens Era Petticoat Workshop, Redondo Beach. http://129.121.107.232/~costumer/category/events/February 25, 26 - Riverside Dickens Festival, Riverside. http://www.dickensfest.com/February 25 - The Great Los Angeles Air Raid of 1942, Fort MacArthur Museum, San Pedro. http://www.theairraid.com/ March 5 -Dressing Downton Fashion Show, The Muzeo, Anahiem. Contact [email protected] 15 -Annual Heritage Square Fashion Show, Heritage Square Museum, 3800 Homer St., Los Angeles. Call 323-225-2700.Films and Programs of InterestVisit www.imdb.com for more information about these films.

Now Available - Z: The Beginning of Everything (Amazon)February 24 - Tulip Fever (In Theaters)March - God of War (In Theaters)March 17 - Beauty and the Beast (In Theaters)March 31 - The Zookeeper’s Wife (In Theaters)May 31 - Interlude in Prague (In Theaters)

Museum Exhibits Please email the Editor at [email protected] if you hear of any exhibits of interest.25th Annual Art of Motion Picture Costume Design, February 7, 2017 - April 22, 2017, FIDM Museum, Los Angeles. http://fidmmuseum.org/exhibitions/current/

Exotica: Fashion & Film Costume of the 1920s, February 7, 2017 - April 22, 2017, FIDM Museum, Los Angeles. http://fidmmuseum.org/exhibitions/current/

Fashionable Likeness: Pastel Portraits in 18th-Century Britain, November 1, 2016 - May 7, 2017, Getty Center. http://www.getty.edu/art/exhibitions/fashionable_likeness/index.html

Dressing Downton: Changing Fashion for Changing Times, February 12, 2017 - May 7, 2017, Muzeo, Anaheim, CA. http://muzeo.org/

Crimson Peak, Image © FIDM


Southern California Monthly Activities Every Sun - San Diego English Country Dancers. 6:00-9:00pm, Ranch Bernardo Swim and Tennis Club, 16955 Bernardo Oaks Dr., Rancho Bernardo, CA 92128. (www.sdecd.org)

Every Sun - Maxwell DeMille’s Cicada Club. Live Music. (www.cicadaclub.com/weekly_ schedule.asp)

1st Fri - Simi Valley Waltz Practice. Victorian and modern dance. 7:30-9:30pm. Rancho Santa Susana Community Center, Dance Rm. 5005-C, Los Angeles Ave., Simi Valley, CA. (www.simivintagedance.com/simiwaltzpolka.html)

1st Sat - Cosplay Sewing Circle. 11:00am-6:00pm LASFS Back Room, 6016Tyrone Ave., Van Nuys CA. (except July) You don’t have to be a LASFS member to check it out. Open to club members and non- members; be advised that club members pay $4 weekly dues, and after three free visits non- members will be asked to join. Come to 3 for free! Lunch will be available, donation of $1- $2 suggested. [email protected]

1st Sun - Victorian Tea Dance. Scottish Rite Cathedral, 150 N. Madison Ave., Pasadena, CA 91101.1:30-5:30pm, $20. (www.victorianteaanddance.org)

1st, 3rd, 4th, 5th Mon - West LA Sewing Circle. 6:30- 11:00pm. Email [email protected] for info

2nd & 4th Sun - English Country Dance. 4:00-7:00pm. Lindberg Park Stone House, 5041 Rhoda Way, Culver City, CA. (www.caldancecoop.org)

2nd Tues - South Bay Sewing Circle. Info: Gayle Steinmeier, [email protected]

2nd and 4th Fri - English Country Dance, St. Luke’s Episcopal Church, 122 S. California Ave., Monrovia, CA. 7:30- 10pm. $5 pp, no partner/experience needed. Contact Todd Brun, [email protected]

3rd Fri - Simi Valley Victorian Dance, Simi Valley Senior Center, Multi Purpose Rm 116, 3900 Avenida Simi, Simi Valley, CA. [email protected]

3rd Sat - Orange County English Country Dance. Anaheim Downtown Community Center. 250 E. Center St., Anaheim, CA. (www.ocecd.sdecd.org)

3rd Sun- Mrs. Beraha’s Drum, Valley Area English Regency Society. 1:30-5:30pm Reformation Lutheran Church 570 E. Orange Grove Blvd. Pasadena, CA 91104 $8.00 donation. For more information contact Laura (818) 992-1252

Monthly - Cocktails in Historic Places™. Hosted by Art Deco Society Los Angeles. (www.adsla.org)

For a comprehensive list of comic book conventions visit:www.conventionscene.com/schedules/comicbookconventions/

If your group has events planned, or there are events you feelthe membership would enjoy that we may have forgotten, please

email us the details at [email protected].


HELP WANTED

The CGW, Inc. Events Coordinator is looking for Event Liaisons to be point-of-contact persons at Goes-To’s and other events.

If you’re interested, please contact [email protected].

The Squeals Editor would like to request articles and photographs for inclusion in Squeals.

In addition it would be nice to have a monthly article for the “Inspiration and Primary Sources” section. Share all your wonderful research and

reflections with the membership.

Seeking a cover model for each issue! All we need is a couple lovely photographs of your creation and a brief description.

If you’d like to find out more please write to [email protected]

Costumer’s Guild West, Inc. is looking for a new Outreach Chairperson.This position requires an enthusiastic individual who will assist in the growth

of our guild by distributing promotional materials to members who are attending various events, possibly organizing “Fan Tables” at conventions, and

generally helping to spread the word about CGW.

Interested volunteers should contact [email protected]

ReminderIf you are going to an event and/or convention where you believe the attendees would be interested in CGW, Inc., please contact our Outreach Coordinator Lorri Gums at [email protected] for a

CGW, Inc. promotional pack.


Costumer’s Guild West, Inc. is Southern California’s costuming enthisiast group. We welcome all costumers from hobbyist to professional and novice to master, whether

histoical, science fiction, or fantasty.

The mission of Costumer’s Guild West, Inc. is to promote the love of costuming, be it making, wearing, or simply appreciating.

Colophon & Contacts

CGW website: www.costumersguild.orgE-mail discussions: https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/CGWcostumers/infoFacebook: https://facebook.com/CostumersGuildWest https://www.facebook.com/CostumeCollegeTwitter: @CGWInc & @CostumeCollegeInstagram: @CGWInc & @CostumeCollegeTumblr: http://costumersguildwest.tumblr.com/ & http://costumecollege.tumblr.com/ CGW Flickr: https://www.flickr.com/groups/961007@N24/Costume College Flickr: https://www.flickr.com/groups/costumecollege/

Remember, you can switch your hardcopy Squeals subscription to eSqueals any time!Just send a note to [email protected] with the email address to which you’d like to receive Squeals.

It may take a month or two to process your request.

Membership Type PriceU.S. resident – paper or electronic $30Canada/ Mexico resident – electronic Squeals $31Canada/ Mexico resident – paper Squeals $38.50Other International resident – electronic Squeals $36Other International resident – paper Squeals $47.50Additional Household Membership* - Household Memberships only available when added to a full membership.

$15

Officers of Costumer’s Guild West, Inc.®President: Mela Hoyt-Heydon, [email protected] Vice President: Cynthia Aronin, [email protected] Recording Secretary: Zoe Jones, [email protected] Treasurer: Annette Grace, [email protected] Corresponding Secretary: Athena Dryden, [email protected] at Large: Cheryl Avirom Director at Large: Maryann Jones, [email protected] Director at Large: Heather Pritchett, [email protected]

Appointed positionsCostume College 2017 Dean: Heather Pritchett, [email protected]: Becky Thelin, [email protected]: openScholarship Committee Chair: openBookkeeper: Natalie Meyer, [email protected] Membership Development: openWebsite Administrator: Gillian BaileySocial Media Coordinator: Becky Thelin, [email protected] Outreach: Lorri Gums, [email protected] Director: Tim Jones, [email protected]

Many thanks to this month’s contributors and to the Squeals editorial staff.

Brooklyn Museum Costume Collection at The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Gift of the

Brooklyn Museum, 2009; Gift of Mrs. Cornelius

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