13 February 2017 Issue 5 cosmeticsbusiness.com …13 February 2017 Issue 5 cosmeticsbusiness.com...

US beauty giant accused of misleadingconsumers with mentions of keratinbenefits in marketing materials for itsMatrix Keratindose hair products

L ’Oréal and its brand Matrix Essentials arefacing a class action lawsuit over three ofits Keratindose hair care products.

Consumers Brandi Price and ChristineChadwick filed the case against L’Oréal USAafter raising concerns about its Matrix BiolageKeratindose Pro-Keratin + Silk Shampoo,Conditioner and Renewal Spray.The plaintiffs allege that L’Oréal USA is guilty

of false advertising as its Keratindose products donot contain keratin and therefore are notconsidered able to provide the benefits associatedwith keratin-containing products, such asnourishing and repairing hair strands.In the complaint filed in the United States

District Court for the Southern District of NewYork, the plaintiffs claim that L’Oréal ismisleading the consumer via product labels,advertising and marketing.Through these platforms, the products claim

to prevent damage and restore overprocessedhair, as well as be formulated with pro-keratinand silk, while the name of the range could beviewed as an implication of a keratin formula.The lawsuit accuses L’Oréal’s ‘misbranding’

as intentional, leaving the products ‘worthless’. It alleges: “[The] defendants’ conduct is all themore egregious, as they have chosen to label theKeratindose products with brand and productnames which blatantly suggest the inclusion of aningredient – keratin – which is not found in theproducts at all.”L’Oréal faces ten counts including breach of

contract, fraud, unjust enrichment and violationof the California False Advertising Law.L’Oréal did not respond to Cosmetics Business’

enquiries by the time this article was published.

L’ORÉAL USA HITWITH MATRIXKERATIN LAWSUIT

@cb_beautynews Cosmetics Business cosmeticsbusinesss

BAREMINERALS has partnered with 28-year-old US YouTube personalityIngrid Nilsen to support the launch of a new limited edition collection. Nilsenrevealed that she is gay in 2015 in a candid video on her channel. Since thenshe has gone on to become a Change Ambassador to the UN, workingtowards encouraging gender equality.

The Be Your Best Self collection comprises four skus designed to helpconsumers achieve flawless foundation coverage with luminosity. Thecollection includes: Original Foundation Broad Spectrum SPF 15, LimitedEdition Invisible Glow Highlighter in Resilience, Limited Edition BeautifulFinish Brush and a silver make-up bag with the slogan ‘Be Your Best Self’.

The kit costs $50 and is available from bareMinerals’ boutiques, as well asthe brand’s website and sephora.com.

13 February 2017 Issue 5 cosmeticsbusiness.com

NEWSPEOPLE 11YSL Beauté names new Global Beauty Director

BUSINESS 4Walgreens Boots Allianceappoints WPP for marketing

EXPERT ADVICE 7Learning from the Product ofthe Year USA 2017 winners

DIGITAL 8Scentbird reveals 2016’s mostsearched fragrance terms

Copyright © 2017 HPCiMedia. This publication may not be distributed without prior permission.

T he Founders behind new skin care brandPeini have spoken out about their ambitionto bring Ghana’s gifts of nature to UK

consumers and the rest of the world.Kwaku Kyei, 32, and his wife Sarah Nicolas-

Kyei, 29, launched the Peini brand last year,motivated by the desire to spread Ghanaiannatural remedies and their skin benefits to peopleoutside of the region. Peini means ‘gift’ inDagbani, a language derived from the Dagombatribe in Northern Ghana.Kyei told Cosmetics Business: “Growing up in

Ghana I was raised with the many medicinalplants whose extracts have been healing the ruralpopulation for generations. From my 12 yearsspent living in the UK I have come to value thebenefits of these natural remedies and havenoticed the lack ofknowledge andappreciation forthem.” The range (£7.50-

£13.95) contains abody conditioner,shower gel and handcream – all free fromparabens and SLS.The products’formulas are based ona “tropical vitaminskin supplement”,

A.S. Watson Group, the company behindretailers including Superdrug, Watsons and ThePerfume Shop, has announced plans to investUS$70m on ‘big data’ over the next three years.The investment will be made with Toronto-

based Rubikloud, a company that specialises insoftware platforms for retailers. Rubikloud’s Rubicore data platform aims to

help A.S. Watson Group’s retailers makeinformed decisions to grow loyalty revenue andforecast product promotions accurately.A.S. Watson hopes to enhance its customer’s

experiences as well as its own business efficienciesusing Rubicore’s machine learning applicationsPromotion Manager and Lifecycle Manager.The conglomerate’s network of 13,300 retail

stores across 25 Asian and European markets areset to benefit from the new software.Malina Ngai, Chief Operating Officer of A.S.

Watson Group, said: “We are investing in bigdata amid global economic uncertainties becausewe believe that technology is a critical enabler forsuccessful retailing in today’s world. A.S. Watson revealed that Lifecycle Manager

helped it to grow sales from direct-to-consumerCRM campaigns by more than 8% with one of itsEuropean operations.

which includes vitamins A, E, F and K, as well asraw materials indigenous to the region, such ascocoa, shea butter, palm oil, coconut oil,groundnut oil and almond seed oil. All rawmaterials are sourced from Northern Ghana. Thebrand works closely with the PelunguCommunity Co-op, which comprises of womenfarmers, including widows and orphans. Thefarmers use natural, organic and biodegradableingredients during production, and are able toearn more money per tonne of raw materialbought being largely responsible for production.Kyei continued: “The essential oils and fats

industry supports and employs thousands,especially women, so our mission is to provide amechanism to proactively sustain this market forour rural women.”

A.S. WATSON TO INVEST $70MON‘BIG DATA’ OVER THREE YEARS

Sally Beauty confirms job cutsafter disappointing Q1 2017

BUSINESS

2 cosmetics business 13 February 2017

Sally Beauty has confirmed that jobs will be cutas part of its restructuring plan to pull thebusiness back on track.Restructuring plans were announced on 2

February as the company released its fiscal Q12017 results, which its President and CEO ChrisBrickman called “disappointing”. The Q1 figuresincluded below expectations sales growth andgross margins. Gross margin was 49.2%, down30 basis points on the prior year.Brickman said: “In our core Sally business, our

financial performance was negatively impacted bythe challenging retail environment andpromotional activity that failed to drive sufficienttraffic to the stores.“In response, we are announcing a

comprehensive restructuring plan and otheraggressive cost reduction initiatives that weexpect will meaningfully lower our cost structurewithout compromising our ability to serve thecustomer and execute on our strategic priorities.”The company expects to incur charges of

approximately $12-$14m from the restructuring,including estimated severance and related costsof approximately $7m.

PEINI BRINGS GIFTS FROM GHANA TO UK

EditorLucy Tandon Copp

ReporterSarah Parsons

Sub EditorAustyn King

ContributorsSarah Cohen, Patricia

Mansfield-Devine

Art EditorSibylla Duffy

Digital ProductionNita Salem

Head of Print & Digital Production

Ross Murdoch

Managing DirectorColin Bailey-Wood

Cosmetics Business HPCi Media Limited

Natraj BuildingThe Tanneries,

55 Bermondsey St, London SE1 3XG+44 20 7193 1279

[email protected]

Subscriptions+44 20 7193 1279

[email protected]

Editorial+44 20 7193 9502

[email protected]

©HPCi Media Limited

Articles published in this publication mayonly be reproduced with permission. Thepublisher accepts no responsibility for anystatements made in signed contributions orin those reproduced from any other source.

ISSN 2057-1984

NEWS13 February 2017

Issue 5

cosmeticsbusiness.com


L a Prairie has partnered with Art Basel, aninternational art fair held annually indifferent locations around the world.

The Swiss luxury skin care brand willteam up with Art Basel for the eventheld in Basel, Switzerland, from15-18 June.At the fair, La Prairie will

offer VIPs the chance to tryout its products withcustomised treatments in the Art Basel CollectorsLounge.La Prairie felt driven to

strike up the art fairpartnership as it believes its“innovative spirit” is mirroredin the world of contemporary art.Patrick Rasquinet, President and

CEO of La Prairie Group, said: “We are veryexcited about the partnership between La Prairieand Art Basel, which we feel perfectly representsour quest for timeless beauty and our passion for audacity.

French advertising regulator ARPP has issued areminder to advertisers that as of 1 January thisyear, photographic retouching of images must beclearly mentioned in advertising materials if therehas been digital manipulation of a model’s weight. The ruling is under the code of work L.7123-2

and states that if an image has been digitallyaltered to make the model either thinner orfatter, the words ‘photographie retouchée’ mustbe added. The law applies to posters, onlinecommunications, newspapers, publicity materialssent to retailers and printed publicity materialsdesigned to be seen by the public. The penalty for non-compliance is a fine ofu37,500, which can be increased to a maximum of30% of the amount spent on the advertisement. The ruling has been in the works since January

2016, when the French Parliament adopted a newhealth code. The ARPP was fully consulted andgave its opinion in November 2016, when theGovernment drafted a decree outlining the law. In a note to the European Commission on

3 November last year, the Government said:“The exposure of young people to thesenormative and unrealistic images of the bodyleads to a feeling of... low self-esteem that has animpact on health behaviours.“The resultant pressure in favour of thinness is

among the factors involved in the emergence anddevelopment of eating disorders.”The ARPP has pointed out that regardless of

whether or not the decree is ever published, theruling still applies and advertisers shouldtherefore consider this in their marketing.

“From the painstaking research behind ourscientific breakthroughs to the opulentformulations that envelop the senses, from the

jewel-like packaging to the high-touchservice, art is not just what La Prairie

is, it is what we do.”As well as partnering with ArtBasel, La Prairie will alsocollaborate on a scientificand artistic innovation witha group of modern artists,the company revealed.More details of thatpartnership will beannounced in due course,

but it is being organised to celebrate La Prairie’s 30th

anniversary of its hero Skin Caviar product.

In 2015, the brand added two new products toits iconic skin caviar range including a ConcealerFoundation and limited edition CaviarSpectaculaire featuring 75ml of skin caviar luxeinside a Baccarat crystal caviar server.

FRENCH ADVERTISERS TOLD TOREVEAL IF IMAGES RETOUCHED

NEWS IN BRIEF

COTY has completed itsacquisition of a majorityshare in Younique, justweeks after it announced the deal had been struck.The acquisition is expectedto be immediately accretiveto Coty’s top-line growth,

EBITDA margin and full-year2017 earnings, adding morevalue than the $600m cost.As part of Coty’s ConsumerBeauty division, Youniquewill continue to be led byCEO Derek Maxfield andChief Visionary OfficerMelanie Huscroft.

SOLÉSENCE, a US skin care manufacturer that

specialises in environmentalprotection technology, has

partnered with prestige beautybrand Colorescience to develop

products for skin care andprotection. Solésence will usepatented mineral skin care

actives to develop sunscreenproducts exclusively for

Colorescience. It marks the firstuse of Solésence’s technology

in the beauty industry.

DENMAN, the UK hairbrushbrand, has been announcedas the sponsor of Hairlooms:The Untangled Truth About

Loving Your Natural Hair andBeauty, which made its

debut on amazon.com on 7February. The book, writtenby Michele Tapp Rosemanfrom Maryland, US, providesa first-hand view of the

author’s connection to herhair, and includes the ‘hairstories’ of 32 people.

Roseman said: “The materialis not just something I wrotebut something I still use to

empower me today.”

BUSINESS

13 February 2017 cosmetics business 3

ESPA, the professional spa products andtreatments brand based in the UK, has givenits brand a refresh as it reaches its 25thanniversary.The brand has been updated with

refreshed and modernised packaging, whichFounder Sue Harmsworth MBE, said isdesigned to “broaden its appeal making itcleaner, easier to navigate, select and buy”.Talking about the brand’s evolution over thepast quarter century, Harmsworth toldCosmetics Business: “While reflecting on thelast 25 years, it was clear that our originalbrand philosophy was even more relevanttoday. “My original goal was to create a brand

that considered the impact of health andwellness on beauty combined with a holisticapproach to deliver natural beauty and innercalm. We’ve refocused on our originalphilosophy and taken cues from thesimplicity and purity of the brand when it firststarted.”ESPA has a network of spa partners in

more than 60 countries around the world. It works with biochemists, skin

experts and aromatherapists to createproducts and treatments designed to benefitskin and mind.Harmsworthadded: “At ESPA we are guided by a holisticphilosophy,caring foryour wholewellbeing.”

LA PRAIRIE INKS FIRST ART PARTNERSHIP


A fter a lengthy review process lasting almost a year, WPP has beenappointed to handle all marketing

and communications for cosmetics and personalcare conglomerate Walgreens Boots Alliance.The communications services group and a team

of its agencies will look after Walgreens BootsAlliance’s retail and wholesale businesses, as wellas its health and beauty product brands.The decision was made after a “thorough

review process”, which began in early 2016.Offices will be set up in Chicago, London and

New York housing ‘Team WBA’ to support thecompany’s Walgreens, Boots and AllianceHealthcare businesses.Walgreens Boots Alliance is the parent

company of the Boots pharmacy chain in the UK and Walgreens in the US. It is also the owner of brands including Liz Earl, Soap &Glory and No7.Stefano Pessina, Executive Vice Chairman and

CEO, Walgreens Boots Alliance, said: “We havegrown rapidly, so too have our marketing andcommunications needs, and this multi-dimensional model and new way of working willbetter support our vision for the company andfuture growth plans.”

WPP TO HANDLE WALGREENS ACCOUNTSMARCHESINI GROUP, the packaging solutionscompany headquartered inItaly, has announced a leapin turnover in 2016 fromu270m to u292m. Of this,78% is generated byoverseas exports.

Marchesini revealed thatdomestic orders have alsoalmost doubled comparedwith 2015. The company’s

Chairman MaurizioMarchesini explained thatthe company aims to

expand its activities in thecosmetics industry throughthe takeover of Dumek, acompany from Bologna,

which it acquired in January.

THE ENVIRONMENTALWORKING GROUP releaseda statement on 30 Januaryvoicing its concern over

rumours that President Trumpcould pull out of the Parisclimate change agreementimminently. Ken Cook,

President of EWG, said: “EvenVladimir Putin, once an ardentclimate change denier, nowsays it’s ‘one of the gravest

challenges humanity is facing.’When Putin and Russia

outflanks the US on humanhealth and the environment,

we’re in big trouble.” He added:“The only silver lining in Trump’s

disastrous agenda is thegrowing movement of

resistance at home and aroundthe globe against hisadministration.”

THE GENTS PLACE, a USlifestyle club for men thatprovides men’s groomingservices such as razorshaves as well as shoeshines, and hand and foot‘repairs’, has signed afranchise developmentagreement to expand its

concept to Austin, Texas, inthe US. The brand’s first

location will open in autumn,headed up by franchiseePaul Terracina. Terracina, 26, previously worked at

Massage Heights’ corporateoffice in San Antonia.

L’Oréal’s Chairman and CEO Jean-Paul Agonhas spoken out about the importance of genderdiversity for the company, following its wins atthe Gender Diversity Awards.L’Oréal scooped the Grand Prize for Gender

Diversity in the CAC 40 Category (French stockmarket) and Gender Diversity Award in theConsumer Goods and Services category. Agon said: “Gender diversity is a strategic

priority for our group as it is a source of creativity,innovation and performance. These two awardsrecognise L’Oréal’s long-standing commitment toequality between men and women at all levels ofthe company. They encourage us to furtheraccelerate our efforts to advance gender diversityin our company and in society.” L’Oréal’s workforce is dominated by women,

which account for 70% of its 89,331-strongglobal workforce. At senior level, women makeup 33.3% of the group’s Executive Committeeand 46% of the Board of Directors.The ceremony was held at the Palais Bourbon

in the 7th arrondissement of Paris, France, on 30January. It was organised by the Ethics & BoardsObservatory, a company that observes thegovernance of publicly traded companies, and the Institut du Capitalisme Responsable,which was founded this month and is dedicated to supporting ‘integrated thinking’ amongcompanies and investors.The ceremony was held as part of the

inauguration of the Gender Diversity in BusinessIndex or Zimmermann Index. The index willprovide an annual measurement of genderdiversity of French stock market SBF 120company boards and executives. The index willbe extended to all of Europe in 2018.


L’ORÉAL CEO SAYS GENDERDIVERSITY IS STRATEGIC PRIORITY THE ESTÉE LAUDER COMPANIES

President and CEO Fabrizio Freda revealedplans to make “targeted investments” thisfiscal year.Talking about the company’s Q2 2017

results, Freda said: “We plan to maketargeted investments throughout thebalance of the fiscal year to support andgrow our brands.”This strategy, combined with product

innovation, increased consumer coverageand improving trends in certain brands andmarkets, rounds out the company’s plan toachieve sales growth of 6-7% for the fiscalyear.The Estée Lauder Companies registered

better-than-expected profits in Q2 2017,thanks in part to the acquisitions of TooFaced, Becca and By Kilian.The acquisitions contributed roughly 90

basis points to sales growth, of which lessthan half was down to Too Faced. Referring to the takeover of Becca and

Too Faced – the latter of which wasrumoured to be the company’s largestacquisition in its history at $1.4bn – Fredaadded: “Both brands complement ourmake-up portfolio, which is the fastest-growing category in prestige beauty, andstrengthen our position in the specialty-multi retail channel globally. We have ampleroom to expand their consumer reach.”

NEWS IN BRIEF

BUSINESS



COMMENT

“Unilever’s decision to run its#AlternativeFacts Dove campaign hasprovided a few laughs in the office.However, as the company becomesmore vocal about its position on Trump,it does make me wonder whether realprogress could be achieved here – orwhether consumer companies are justputting themselves at risk. Unilever as abusiness is not alone in its anti-Trumpsentiments. Uber’s CEO Travis Kalanickhas stepped down from Trump’seconomic advisory council aftermounting internal pressure, while 2,000Google employees recently walked outover his anti-immigration orders, withtheir boss’ support. And now there istalk of a ‘virtual war’ with Trump’sadministration led by tech giantsincluding Facebook and Apple; a publicletter is said to be in the works opposingTrump’s early moves. But being aconsumer company like Unilever isarguably more risky than a Silicon Valleygiant – and Starbucks is a case in point.Its CEO Howard Schultz recentlycriticised Trump’s immigration ban,which led to shares plummeting and aboycott by Trump supporters. It wouldbe a shame for Unilever to keep quiet –but there could be consequences.”

WAS DOVE RIGHT TO MOCK TRUMP?At the end of January, Unilever brand Dove took out a print ad in The Times and The Guardian that went viral –but not for the reasons you might first think. The ad poked fun at Trump’s Counselor Kellyanne Conway and heruse of the phrase ‘alternative facts’ on Chuck Todd’s Meet the Press show. The brand printed a list of its veryown #AlternativeFacts, which soon dominated social media feeds. But was the campaign really a good idea?

“BEING A CONSUMERDRIVEN COMPANYCARRIES RISKS”~ Lucy Tandon Copp, Editor

“Dove has surprised, but alsoimpressed consumers with its relevant yet subtle and entertainingcriticism of the Trump administrationdisinformation campaign. In the currentdivided political climate, the need toclarify brand values and take a stancehas never been greater. Beautyconsumers are increasingly demandinghonesty and authenticity from brands,and Dove’s ad builds on the progressit has already made in this direction,through its Real Beauty campaign andSelf-Esteem Project. By strengtheningits role as both a challenger and a voice,Dove could encourage other beautybrands to be bolder with their voices inthe future too.”

“DOVE COULDENCOURAGEOTHER BRANDS”~ Jo Allen, Editor

“Dove was in safe hands when itcommissioned creative agency Ogilvy to design its #AlternativeFacts ad. The agency is not one to shy away fromhard-hitting social commentarycampaigns and Dove is no stranger tothe agency – the relationship dates backto the 1950s. The pair previouslyrevealed the power of opinionatedbranding through its anti-airbrushingReal Beauty campaign. But Dove is notalone in criticising Trump and hiscircle – fashion houses have refused todress the First Lady. During theSuperbowl, America’s largestadvertising platform, Coca-Cola, Audi,Air Bnb and Budweiser voiced pro-immigrant messages remindingconsumers that hope and passion isalways welcome in the US. Theseadvertisers are just exercising theircreativity and using basic coremarketing messages to uniteconsumers – this one happens to beagainst Trump policies.

“DOVE IS NOT ALONEIN CRITICISINGTRUMP”~ Sarah Parsons, Reporter

New Dove antiperspirant increases your IQ by 40 points.

New Dove antiperspirant boosts your Wi-Fi signal.

New Dove antiperspirant is a really good listener.

#AlternativeFacts


PRIMARK is set to become the anchor store for a new w70m shopping mall in Ireland.Operating under the name Penneys, the two-storey 51,000sqft shop will join other internationaland local retailers on the Carlow Central site.The newly developed Penneys will sit on a site of 6.5 acres, with the mall due to open for

Christmas 2018. Penneys’ beauty offering has expanded in recent years and it now offers colourcosmetics throughout its stores. In 2015, it partnered with Australian brand ulta3 to launch a newline of beauty products. When completed, the Carlow Central shopping mall will comprise of200,000sqft retail space and 640 car spaces, and will create more than 1,000 jobs.Gerry Butler, Sales Director at Primark, said: “This announcement is an important milestone for

us and one which we know is eagerly anticipated by the people of Carlow.“We are delighted that the expansion will generate additional jobs in the new store.”

Primark was founded in Dublin, Ireland, under the name Penneys in 1969. It could not use thename outside of Ireland as J. C. Penney legally registered the name.

NEWS IN BRIEF

UK customers spent 27%more in health and beauty

SME stores over theChristmas period than in

2015. The cosmetics sectorhad the most successcompared to other retailcategories: homeware,

lifestyle and gifts grew by23%; sports, toys and

hobbies by 12%; and fashionand apparel by 8%. PoSprovider Vend compared

year-on-year spending fromBlack Friday to 15 January.The date was based on asample of 1,500 UK SMEretailers from across all

product sectors.

INDITEX has announcedplans to introduce e-receipts for

online transactions for itsclothing and beauty stores Zaraand Oysho. Online customerswill receive a digital receipt viae-mail or saved in their online

account. The announcement ispart of the Spain-based

retailer’s latest digital push. Itfollows the launch of mobile

payments in Spanish stores lastyear. Inditex claims the new

receipts will improve thecustomer shopping experience

and reduce the company’senvironmental impact.

SOAPER DUPER, a bathand body range with over90% naturally derived

ingredients, will be stockedin Tesco stores and on itswebsite from 22 February.The brand prides itself on

being an affordable guilt-freebody care brand containing

no plastic microbeads,parabens or phthalates. Therange includes shower gels,body butters, hand creamsand scrubs. Soaper Duperwill launch in Tesco and

tesco.com nationwide, withRRP for the brand’s

products starting at £5.50.

Walmart’s two-day shipping Walmart has launched a free two-day shippingservice to consumers across the US.

US shoppers will be able to use this deliveryoption without the need of a membership fee.

The retailer is encouraging customers to usethe service by lowering its minimum purchaserequired for free shipping from $50 to $35. Itemsbeing shipped to stores have no price threshold.

“I couldn’t be more excited. We are moving atthe speed of a start-up,” said Marc Lore,President and CEO of Walmart US e-commerce.

“Two-day free shipping is the first of manymoves we will be making to enhance thecustomer experience and accelerate growth.”

The company will continue to offer its onlinegrocery pick-up option at more than 600locations across the country, with plans to expandthe service in the coming year.

“In today’s world of e-commerce, two-day freeshipping is table stakes. It no longer makes senseto charge for it,” added Lore.

John Lewis has cut its generous 90-day refundpolicy to 35 days.

The UK retailer said shoppers will not noticethe two-third decrease as most customers alreadyreturn the unwanted items within 35 days.

A spokesperson for John Lewis said: “Beforewe made the change, we asked our customersabout our policy and found that over 85% wereunaware of our policy for unwanted items andover 90% of customers who change their mindabout a product bring it back within 35 days.”

The retailer claims the change will still “be oneof the best returns policies of all UK retailers”.

All items purchased before 1 February willcontinue with the 90-day rule. The changes willapply to all cosmetics and fragrances within thestore. Customers may open the packaging, butwill not be able to return any used cosmetics.

John Lewis said customers will continuously bewarned about the change via point of sale,receipts and parcels ordered online.

JOHN LEWIS SLASHES 90-DAYRETURNS POLICY IN THE UK

RETAIL



Have any beauty winners thisyear surprised you?All of the brands that won inthe skin, lip, hair and oral carecategories have introducedproducts with innovationsunlike anything else we haveseen before. These brands aretaking home Product of theYear Awards because they havebeen extremely successful inidentifying customers’ wantsand needs, and are thencapitalising on those needs.Kleenex recently introduced aline of Kleenex FacialCleansing products, whileanother winner, Amopé,introduced a revolutionaryproduct called GelActiv Insoles& Inserts. These insoles areavailable in variations based onheel height, an offering we havenot seen before from women’sfootwear insole manufacturers.Overall, we are excited by theinnovations we are seeing, butare not surprised by the brandsintroducing those products, asthey are consistently at theforefront of innovation,introducing new attributesahead of their competitors.

What do you think USconsumers want in beauty?Two of the major trends that weare seeing this year in thebeauty and personal careindustry are the risingpopularity of beauty routinesthat can be done at-home, andthe expansion of all-in-oneproducts. This is a growingtrend because for consumers,convenience is key. Forexample, the Sensodyne TrueWhite toothpaste gives awhitening treatment and acts asa sensitivity toothpastesimultaneously, creating

WHAT IT TAKESTO BE AWINNER

IN THE US The Product of the Year USA awards are the largestconsumer-voted awards for product innovation. Over40,000 US consumers voted in 2017, but what do thewinning brands tell us about what consumers want?

EXPERT ADVICE


and an innovation thatsimplifies the at-home beautyroutine, helping to save timeand money.

What’s the secret to winningover consumers today?It is vital to understand thatchange is a delicate balance.When introducing newproducts, brands must innovatebut not alienate. Companieshave to understand thatconsumers constantly craveproducts that are new andexciting, yet they are alsocreatures of habit. For example,with the new Comfort Care LipBalms, Carmex is introducingnew flavours, but they are stilldelivering the benefits ofCarmex products thatconsumers have come to relyon and trust over time.

How important is consumertrust in the beauty market?Consumer trust is extremelyimportant in the beauty andpersonal care market, both inthe US and around the world.Websites like Yelp are popularbecause we are always lookingfor testimonials andrecommendations from ourfriends, and other people likeus. We use Yelp to figure outwhere to eat because we wantto make sure we’re getting thebest information and feedbackout there. By the sameprinciple, customers look tofriends and peers to decidewhat products to try, which iswhere Product of the Yearcomes into play. If someone isdeciding between two new lipcare products and one has theProduct of the Year Award logoon pack and the other choicedoesn’t, most often, that personwill choose to buy the Productof the Year winner. In fact, ourresearch shows that 44% ofconsumers are more likely tobuy a product recommended by fellow consumers, and thatProduct of the Year winnershistorically outperformcategory sales performance by 38.1%.

Share this interview oncosmeticsbusiness.com

Mike Nolan is the GlobalCEO of Product of the Year USA

convenience and removing astep from the beauty routine,saving time. The SchwarzkopfKeratin Color acts as a

conditioner to protect andrepair hair, and helps cover greyhair, which is yet anotherexample of a 2-in-1 product,

2017 BEAUTY CHAMPIONS:FOOT CARE Amopé GelActiv Insoles & InsertsSKIN CARE Kleenex Facial Cleansing, Exfoliating CushionsFEMININE CARE SweetSpot Labs Washes & WipesLIP CARE Carmex Comfort Care Lip BalmHAIR TREATMENT Schwarzkopf Keratin ColorORAL CARE Sensodyne True White


S centbird has revealed the most searchedfor scent terms by millennial’s in 2016.The US fragrance subscription brand has

released an infographic showing ‘sexy’ and ‘fresh’at the top of the list for women and men.

Scentbird has a unique view of the category,particularly when it relates to millennials. “Wefielded over 4 million fragrance queries last yearon our platform and our subscribers are 80% 18-40 year olds,” said Rachel ten Brink, CEO ofScentbird. “We wanted to identify whereconsumer preferences were going.” The terms‘sexy’, ‘floral’ and ‘fruity’ were the most searchfor by women, while ‘fresh’, ‘date night’ and‘classic’ came out on top for men.

“Sexy, was searched more than 350,000 timeson our platform, while ‘fresh’ was searched125,000 times by men,” added Brink. “For women,‘clean’ is still somewhat relevant but is losing

THE BALDEN GROUP, an Italian wellnessand body care company, has launched itselectronic beauty mask to the UK market.Consumers will need to download the Play

Skin app, plug the mask into theirsmartphone, then apply the two suppliedelectrodes to the face, which will thenactivate a low current to tone facial muscles.The hydrogel mask contains moisturising

and anti-ageing properties such as Camelliasinensis, a fresh green tea plant withnutrients said to counteract the ageingprocess. The brand claims the electronicmask is a ‘cult product within the Europeanbeauty market’ and has beendermatologically tested at the University ofFerrara in Northern Italy.Users only need to use the mask for 10

minutes and once a week to see “theenhancement of hydration and radiance ofskin post-treatment”, according to its creators.

AZOYA is celebrating itsofficial US launch. Theturnkey e-commerce

solution provider works withcompanies to manage theironline presence in China.Already established inEurope, the company isexpanding to help UScompanies. Feelunique

and La Redoute are amongthe European brands the

provider has partnered withto help break into theChinese market. Azoya

works with brands to tailortheir marketing strategy toChina and advises them onhow to educate customers.

INSTAGRAM is trialling afeature for multiple images in a

single post. Currently thisoption is only available tobrands and Instagram’s

200,000 advertisers The app’susers have been able to swipe

through images fromcompanies, but now they

themselves may soon be ableto select ten photos at once,with separate filters for each toshowcase to their followers.

The Facebook-owned app said44% of customers were

influenced by beauty brandsand 52% were influenced by

beauty experts on social media.

NIVEA has been announcedas the official backstage‘care partner’ for Britishtalent show The Voice UK.The brand will work withmake-up artist Lauren

Murphy to provide backstagesupport for the acts and

reveal professional skin caretips. The partnership isdesigned to highlight theimportance of effective

cleansing in a fast-paced,stressful environment. Thewider campaign aims to

engage consumers throughthe backstage content foundonline and via social media,including skin care tips and

interviews.

Rimmel hits the roadCoty’s make-up brand Rimmel hosted its firstYouTube Road Trip episode in Cardiff on 27January as part of a new style and make-up series.

Each month, two successful YouTube beautystars will show off what they love most about thestyle and attitude of a particular UK city anduncover the latest looks in beauty and make-up.

The first episode took place in Cardiff whereEm Ford from the My Pale Skin blog grew up and it shows her taking beauty vlogger Fleur DeForce to special places from her past as well asnew ones. The girls showcased their favouritemake-up looks to suit the different places theyvisited and the audience were encouraged tosuggest venues via social media.

A new Rimmel Road Trip episode will beuploaded to the RimmelLondon YouTubechannel each month until June. Each episode willfeature two influencers in different UK cities.

DIGITAL


NEWS IN BRIEFpopularity. Women in 2017 are more interestedin ‘floral’ scents that are ‘sexy’ and ‘sophisticated’.For men, ‘classic’ and ‘fresh’ are most desired.”

Scentbird further identified a consumer desirefor more complex, sweeter fragrances – ‘woody’,‘sweet’ and ‘mysterious’ also grew in popularity.

The brand believes this data can be helpful tobuild a picture of the consumer mindset whencreating fragrance. “This information may helpto think of fragrance in a different context. Forexample, ‘occasion’ may be the most intriguingresult of this research. Women search most for‘everyday’ scents, while men are looking for ‘datenight’ – pointing to a focus on special occasionusage. However, men are evolving to using scentmore often as the ‘office’ grows in popularity.”

“We were surprised by the rising popularity of searches for ‘trendsetter’ and ‘workout’,” Brink added.

MILLENNIALS SEEK SEXY SCENTS IN 2016


INNOVATION


PICKING A GOOD BRANDNAME IS A HARD TASK

A word has the power to conjure up strong emotionsand associations, so getting your brand name rightfrom the beginning can be the gateway to success

What’s in a name?A name says so muchabout your brand.Chanel, Maybelline,ghd... Each oneconjures up a lookand feel so consumersknow exactly what to expectfrom that brand.

Choosing a name howeveris one of the hardest tasks inthe design world. I say ‘designworld’ because the bestsuccess we have had withbrand creations is when acompany comes to us with itsproduct even before it haschosen a name. So how do it?

One of the first things Ilook for with a new beautybrand is the back story. It iscritical to its success to getthis right. There needs to be a clear reason why the newproduct is different andspecial. Getting an authenticand single-minded brand storyright helps to create a brandwith genuine depth and thepotential for longevity.Consumers can easily spot a‘wannabee’ a mile off. I wantto see clients with a passionfor their creations and it’s myjob to turn that passion into abrand. One thing that trumpseven big brands and big bucksis passion. You’ve got to haveit and to show it. Why wouldanyone spend money on aproduct that even the creatordoesn’t believe in? Two yearsdown the line if there’s nobackstory – no influences andexcitement to communicate –you can’t dream one up. Evena multinational can have true

passion – and even anentrepreneur can lack it.

So, how do youpick a name? The

name follows theback story and can be

inspired by the creator ofthe brand such as Eve Lom; aningredient, in Moroccanoil’scase; a brand ethos like Crèmede la Mer; or simply what theproduct does, for exampleEnhance. We task our creativeteam to come up with an ideaand then we test it. It’s often assimple as brainstorming namesthat we like. Ask the desiredaudience for its input – butnever undervalue your gutinstinct – it has got to feelright. Our goal is to create aname that’s true to the brand,unique and sticks in theconsumer’s mind.

When the creative team hasconjured up a suitably stickyname, testing it beyond theUK’s borders is essential. Onefantastic sounding name in theUK could mean somethingoffensive elsewhere, or itcould sound just plain silly.

The next step is to make itlegal. Register you name asearly as possible and get thelegal rights both here andabroad. If it’s alreadyregistered (but not in use)don’t be put off. You might be able to buy the rights back.And never underestimate howlong it takes.

Now the fun can begin.Once the name and story arein place, that’s when yourbrand can be built.

TOM HEARN IS THE BUSINESS DIRECTOR OF BRAND ANDPACKAGING DESIGN COMPANY NUDE BRAND CREATION

OPINION COLUMN

”

“

ICONIC ASTRAL BRAND HASPACKAGING MAKEOVERDDD-owned moisturiser brand Astral has had a packagingmakeover. Previously in a plain blue pot, the Original Face & BodyMoisturiser range has an updated design for the 50ml, 200ml and500ml sizes. Astral worked with the RPC Manuplastics and M&H,both part of the RPC Group, to update the brand’s image, whichwas first established in 1953.

Astral explained the original shade of blue has been maintainedto ensure the consumer can still recognise the product on the shelf.

Brand Manager Sian Rimmer said: “Since 1953, the same Astralformula has been used by all kinds of women for all kinds of things.

“Manuplastics and M&H have helped us to deliver a new potthat reflects our original pack design while modernising the brandfor the future.”

DDD is a family-run company based in the UK. It acquiredDentyl Active Mouthwash in 2014 and, prior to this, theSnufflebabe baby healthcare brandin 2010. It has been inoperation since 1912.

BASF RESEARCHERS USE EPIGENENTICS TOREVITALISE FIBROBLASTS AND AGEING SKINBASF researchers have joined forces to explore the field of epigenetics.Experts from public and private research institutions plan toascertain how genetic changes caused by chronological ageing orenvironmental factors can be mapped and precisely controlled.

BASF intends to develop and market several active ingredientsfor cosmetic products that harness the findings on epigenetics.BASF’s new launch is the first active ingredient that re-activatesfibroblasts, the cells that dictate continuous skin cell renewal, byprotecting them from epigenetic modifications and the ageingprocess, which alter the fibroblast’s functionalities.

David Herault, Head of Global Research and Development forBio-Activesm, said: “Epigenetics is our strongest ally. It is the key to understanding gene modulation and stimulating the activity ofgenes that have an influence on the longevity of the skin.”

The loss of fibroblast’s vitality leads to a rarefaction of collagenand a loss of dermal density. The skin loses its tonicity, elasticityand firmness, which is when the first signs of ageing appear.

Based on these observations, BASF teams have created an extractfrom Origanum majorana leaves, that stimulates actin synthesis infibroblasts. It does not change the fibroblast’s genetic code, butwakes up the cell and stimulates it to prevent ageing. “We wantedto find ways to slow the ageing process of the skin throughenvironmental influences and lifestyle.

“With Dermagenist, we are now able to maintain the fibroblasts’capacity for self-renewal and stimulate their activity,” said SabinePain, R&D Project Manager.


NEW PRODUCTS

BRANDS

4 PRIMAVERA has launched abody care collection for spring.The Harmonising Rose andOsmanthus Body Care range(£13-£30) contains four organicproducts designed to soothe theskin after winter. Primavera saysthe products could help toreduce broken capillaries andpromote cell renewal, while theosmanthus will moisturise andimprove the complexion. Therange is available online and inhealth stores.Launch: out now

5 HEATHCOTE & IVORY hasreleased the Sweet Pea &Honeysuckle bath and homecollection (£3-£10). The 11-skurange includes body creams,bathing flowers and an edt. Theproducts contain vitamin E,glycerin and shea butter, as wellas patchouli and cactus essentialoils. The entire range is free fromparabens and sulphates.Launch: out now

of a Malagasy co-op to create the collection, which is madeentirely of crocheted raffia.Photojournalist and fashionphotographer Serge Antonworked with the brand on itsmarketing images of the Mikeatribe. Launch: March

3 NUBIAN HERITAGE hasexpanded its bath and bodycollection into facial care. TheAfrican Black Facial Carecollection ($4.99-$16.99) isavailable online and in WholeFoods. Inspired by traditionalhealing philosophies, the rangefeatures US-certifiedhomeopathic remedies. Thecollection is naturally black incolour, and is designed tosoothe and clear blemishes. TheAfrican Black Soap Facial Carecollection is cruelty-free anddoes not contain parabens,sulfates, phthalates, paraffin,mineral oil, petroleum, DEA,synthetic fragrance or artificialcolouring. Launch: out now


1 BOBBI BROWN hasannounced the arrival of its firstcompact foundation. The SkinFoundation Cushion CompactSPF 35 (£36) will be available in nine shades and comes inrefillable airtight packagingdesigned to preserve itsfreshness. The foundationcontains caffeine and lychee torejuvenate the skin, and isinfused with moisturisers for adewy glow. Amy Conway, BobbiBrown make-up artist, advisescustomers to curve the includedsponge into a ‘taco shape’ andthen apply the foundation in arolling motion for an even finish.Initially available in Selfridges inthe UK, the foundation will thenroll out nationwide. Launch: March

2 BAOBAB COLLECTION haslaunched a spring/summercollection inspired by theMadagascan Mikea tribe. Apercentage of the sales of thepremium Mikea candles (£89-£540) will be donated to thetribespeople whose land is beingexploited for rosewood. Thebrand collaborated with women

6 ELIZABETH ARDEN’S newfragrance is designed toencapsulate simple pleasures.The White Tea edt’s ($37 for50ml) top notes are Italianmandarin, clary sage essence,sea breeze accord and Japanesewhite fern. The middle notesinclude white tea extract andwhite iris accord, while the basecontains madras wood and tonkabean Venezuela absolute. Launch: out now

7 DOVE has introduced itsDermaCare Scalp Series ($4.99each) to help women combatdandruff. The range’s productsaim to moisturise hair whileensuring a flake-free scalp. Thecollection includes Pure DailyCare 2 in 1 and Shampoo;Invigorating Mint 2 in 1 andShampoo; and Dryness & ItchRelief Shampoo and Conditioner.The line will be available onlineand in US mass retailersLaunch: out now

Share these stories oncosmeticsbusiness.com

1

2

3

4

5

6

7


YSL has appointed TomPecheux as its newGlobal BeautyDirector.The make-up artist has

worked in the beautyindustry for three decades

and has created looks for the likes ofChanel, Balmain, Lanvin and Emilio Pucci.

As well as creating runway looks,Pecheux was previously Make-up Directorat Estée Lauder. He was also involved increating the Shiseido make-up brand andColour Creator, while in 2001 he helpedthe brand launch its Beauty Navigator.Pecheux has been credited for transformingShiseido into a beauty empire.

In his new role, Pecheux will work withthe other YSL ambassadors – Staz Lindes,

Anja Rubik, Crista Cober and EdieCampbell – to create looks for YSL’s beautyadvertising campaigns. He will collaboratewith the brand’s key colour creators onproduct development, as well as advisecustomers through expert ‘how-tos’ andinformation about the brand’s latestproduct innovations.

Pecheux succeeds Lloyd Simmonds, whowas at the company for six and a half years.Stephan Bezy, International GeneralManager at YSL Beauté, said: “I amdelighted to welcome Tom Pecheux as thenew Global Beauty Director. We are proudto collaborate with such a talent andcreative mind.”

Pecheux said in YSL’s Instagramannouncement: “At Yves Saint Laurent wearen’t just selling make-up, we are selling

an attitude, and that is embedded in thecolours, the textures and the materials.

“And I adore that about make-up, tocreate the tool to make that woman feelgood or to feel sublime. I simply do notunderstand how one cannot take pleasure inmaking oneself pretty.”

Pecheux’s appointment follows theannouncement last month that Staz Lindeswill become the luxury brand’s globalambassador. Originally signed to thecompany last December, Lindes is a fashionmodel and musician who was the face ofDior’s SS16 campaign.

YSL called her a “brilliant artist, true toherself and a symbol of her generation”.

Share these stories on cosmeticsbusiness.com

ON THE MOVE AT... YSL BEAUTÉ

For the latest opportunities, visit cosmeticsbusiness.com/jobs/jobs_page PEOPLE


GILLETTE has named its first ever eSportsathlete, Enrique “xPeke” Cedeño, as its newglobal ambassador.The P&G-owned brand will be working with

the world’s largest eSports event ESL bysponsoring the League of Legends IntelExtreme Masters (IEM) World Championshipin Katowice, Poland, later this month. Cedeño is a professional gamer, team

owner and former IEM Katowice MostValuable Player. He will join a long list ofacclaimed players to have partnered with thebrand, including Roger Federer, Thierry Henryand Tiger Woods. Speaking about his newrole, Cedeño said: “I’m happy and humbledto be their first global eSports ambassadorand get the chance to show more of theworld how much precision eSports requires.”Gillette will offer ESL fans customised 3D

printed razor handles at the event, as well asautograph sessions with the ambassador.


WHAT’S TRENDING?


‘FASHION SWEAT’ LOOKSSET TO STICK IN BEAUTYAgainst all odds, greasy and lived-in make-up isbecoming desirable as fitness trend filters through

“The lived-in make-up trend is huge right now.2017 is the year for healthy looking skin, withmany women wanting to imitate that ‘postworkout’ look. Last year we saw a trend for thestrobing/highlighting technique, but now it’s all

about the watery glow. This kind of glow is easilyachievable with the right skin care. Opt for hydrating

products to prep the skin. Recently, at New York Fashion Week weused Extra Face Oil pressed in on top of make-up. Simply apply asmall amount to the palms of the hands, warm and press aroundthe cheeks, forehead and chin. This finish looks so natural and ismore flattering than shimmer.”Amy Conway, Bobbi Brown make-up artist

“IT’S ALL ABOUT THE WATERY GLOW”

Over the past year, trends in the food and fitness industries haveinfluenced cosmetics as consumers look to buy into the well-beingmovement across all areas of their lives.However, if there is one part of healthy living regime that seems,

at first glance, to be an unnatural fit with the beauty industry, it isthe physical process of sweating.With cosmetics companies historically investing in R&D and

basing product lines on consumer desire to banish oil, it may comeas a surprise that MAC chose to dedicate an entire section of itsTrends SS17 lookbook to the theme of ‘wet’. By this, the EstéeLauder brand means ‘fashion sweat’, which in itself is meant to bean embodiment of words such as grease, humidity and athleticism.The trend goes beyond skin including other features such as oilyeyelids, blurred lips and wet-look hair.In South Korea, consumers are already well on their way to

mastering fashion sweat thanks to a myriad of specially-designedskus. Innovations have so far focused predominantly on lipproducts. Laneige has launched its Two Tone Lip Bar, an ombrelipstick with two strikingly different shades in the same bullet.Available in 14 variations, two of the skus, Orange Blurring andMilk Blurring, feature a bright orange and a fuschia pink paired

with solid white respectively. The product can be used in one slickto achieve a uniquely blurred result every time. Meanwhile, EtudeHouse offers its Color in Liquid Lips product in six shades. Theproduct is described as having a ‘cushiony water-sliding texture’. Toapply, users can draw the wide side of the waterdrop applicator tipalong the lip line, then poke the centre of the lips to encourage thecolour to gradate freely, without being controlled.As the trend grows, it seems that South Korean consumers are

veering away from perfection and towards individuality throughmeans of ‘going with the flow’, taking direction from their productsand not the other way around. And if there’s one thing you can besure of, it’s that avid beauty consumers in the West will already bewatching closely.


13 February 2017 Issue 5 cosmeticsbusiness.com …13 February 2017 Issue 5 cosmeticsbusiness.com...

Documents

Transcript of 13 February 2017 Issue 5 cosmeticsbusiness.com …13 February 2017 Issue 5 cosmeticsbusiness.com...