YSL Latest News 2012-2013
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Transcript of YSL Latest News 2012-2013
The Latest News & Company Updates
2012 - 2013
Table of Contents
Campaigns
Ready To Wear YSL Music Project
Menswear S/S 2013 Womenswear S/S 2013
Womenswear S/S Precollection 2014
Handbags & Accessories The Duffle
Sac de Jour Fall/Winter 2013
Footwear
Beauty Cosmetics
Rouge Pur Couture, Baby Doll Mascara, Touche Éclat
YSL Saharaienne Heat Collection Summer 2013 Perfume
Paris Je T’aime, Parisienne Manifesto Skin Care
Forever Light Creator
Media & Celebrities
Media Vogue US January 2013 Vogue Japan June 2013 Vogue US August 2013
Twitter Talk
Celebrities Saint Laurent: The Movie?
Musicians Hollywood
New Concept Store Design
Corporate Happenings
A New Ceo What the Change Means for Hedi
Other Plans for YSL What Hedi Has Since Achieved
Fashion Face-Off
Financial Statements Yves Saint Laurent
Kering (formerly PPR)
Retrobranding
Rebranding: Name Change “Down with the Ritz, Up with the Street”
A Confusing Message? Supporters Opponents
How YSL Should Respond
YSL Music Project Starring Daft Punk, Kim
Gordon, Courtney Love, Beck Hansen, Christopher Owens,
and Marilyn Manson
Womenswear S/S 2013
Womenswear S/S 2014 Pre-Collection
Hedi’s Still Breaking the Rules: Debuts Resort Collection Online
“ While retailers had a chance to peruse his cruise collection for Saint Laurent in person during presentations in New York from June 7 to 12, members of the press are getting their first glimpse online. Based on the black-and-white photographs featuring model Sasha Pivovarova and shot by Slimane, the designer has dialed back the grunge factor of his fall ready-to-wear collection to focus on chic basics in a mostly monochrome palette. […] Heavily sequined jackets, including one in an abstract leopard motif, emphasized the luxe factor. […] Fashion editors will be able to get a closer look at the clothes at a presentation in Paris on July 3. ”
- Joelle Diderich, WWD.com
The Duffle: The Next “It Bag”
“Yves Saint Laurent's new creative director, Hedi Slimane, has also been showing the actress, mother, designer, singer, cook, blogger and fitness fanatic [Gwyneth Paltrow] the love in the best way a fashion designer possibly can - by creating a must have handbag in her honor.”
The Duffle: $2,650
Sac de Jour
…a ‘rip-off’ of the Hermés Birkin?
YSL Sac de Jour: $2,950 Hermés Birkin: $11,000
Details ● embossed Saint Laurent signature ● polished calfskin exterior, suede-lined interior ● removable leather encased padlock ● available in 2 sizes
“Presenting the bags from Saint Laurent’s Fall/Winter 2013 Collection. Hedi Slimane got his inspiration from California Grunge on his recent creation. The Classic Duffle and Betty bags are still present in this collection. The Betty bag has been given with another update as it now available in python and more embellishments.” –SpottedFashion.com
black Embellished Betty Bag
red Betty Bag
black Python Betty Bag
grey Clutch Bag
black Top Handle Bag
gold Clutch Bag
Slimane’s Take on Footwear
“While Hedi Slimane did not propose much in the way of complicated ready-to-wear for fall, the designer went the opposite direction for the footwear. In this case, he embellished biker boots with virtually everything but the kitchen sink. For those who wonder if too much is ever enough, these fancy flat boots will certainly keep things interesting come fall.” –Regina Smith Popp (WWD.com)
Saint Laurent SL/01H High Top Sneakers
Details ● tall, high-top silhouette ● padded ankle collar ● embossed gold branding on tongue and sides ● tonal stitching across premium calfskin leather upper ● rubble sole ● available in Black and Optical White ● available for Men and Women Price: $575
“ […] But contrary to many reports, the company’s official name will not change. Nor will the move impact the beauty business, which is owned by L’Oréal. Beauty products will continue to use the original name as well as the brand’s iconic ‘Cassandre’ logo. In fact, the rebrand applies only to Slimane’s ready-to-wear line. ” –WWD.com
YSL Saharienne Heat Collection starring Lindsey Wixson
“This summer is about boldness…”
…A Tribute to the Past?
YSL’s 1968 Safari Jacket “[…] a logical continuation of his African collection of 1967. This safari jacket was a total outsider, with only one copy made specially for a fashion spread in Vogue magazine, photographed by Franco Rubartelli. In the middle of the brush, worn by Veruschka, the sculptural muse on the eve of the seventies, the Saint Laurent safari jacket is more of a tunic than an outfit for hot countries...” -Fondation
“Parisienne captures the essence of the fresh and romantic lady who isn’t from Paris, but who goes there…” –Hillcoweb.com
“Romantic, ultra feminine, exquisitely refined, the parfum of YSL Paris… In creating the original parfum, Yves Saint Laurent gave to the world the glamour and allure of the city he loved above all. A rose accord blooms at fragrance’s heart, highlighted by violet with hints of bergamot. Light powdery accents of may rose and iris meet in the middle, set free by a base of sandalwood, vetiver and vanilla. In a tempered crystal flacon.” –YSL Beauty
2010 Ad (Kate Moss)
2013 Ad (Anja Rubik)
starring American actress Jessica Chastain, of hit films The Help and Zero Dark Thirty
“Scramble for ‘Luminous' Anti-Ageing Serum: Thousands of Women Sign Up to Waiting List for New Yves Saint Laurent Product”
“ […] This frenzy is down to a world first formula protected by thirteen patents, which gave fresher skin immediately to 76 per cent of women tested and a more even complexion within one month of use to an impressive 92 per cent…
The general manager of Yves Saint Laurent Amandine Ohayon says the technology will: ‘significantly reduces the appearance of darker pigmentation which distinguishes an older face from the smooth, uniform complexion of youth.’ ”–The Daily Mail
serum (£61)
“…the secret to luminous skin… perfect enlarged pores, uneven skin tone, blemishes, and dark spots…” ($53)
Media & Celebrities
Left: from Harper’s Bazaar US - August
“Gwen Stefani’s Vogue Cover is the Best Ad for
Saint Laurent Ever”
“A New Tradition – American model Karlie Kloss, gets decked out in a wardrobe of all Saint Laurent for Vogue Japan’s June issue. The beauty poses for the label’s Creative Director Hedi Slimane in a mix of slim-fitted pants, billowing gowns and glittering jackets.”
Daft Punk & Karlie Kloss: Vogue US August 2013
“Back after a long six year hiatus, the electronic French duo Daft Punk have made a dynamic return on not only the charts but on our magazines too. Looking slick in signature Hedi Slimane for Saint Laurent suits, the helmeted pair, photographed by Craig McDean, are storming through New York in an editorial dedicated to ‘Inspired New Eveningwear’ with model Karlie Kloss.”
–Trendland.com
Twitter Talk
“Gaga Takes Slimane’s Side Against Horyn”
October 2012: Catherine Horyn reviews Slimane’s RTW debut (“…Considering that Mr. Slimane was an avatar of youthful style, I expected more from this debut. I had the impression from the clothes of someone disconnected from fashion of the past several years…”) and also mentions how she “was not invited” Hedi responds on Twitter: "Miss Horyn is a schoolyard bully and also a little bit of a stand-up comedian […] her biggest achievement [is a] book about Bill Blass [and her personal style is] seriously challenged." Gaga Tweets: Gaga retweeted Hedi Slimane's "open letter" to Cathy Horyn. She also tweeted links to the photos of his collection and wrote, "Monsters, check out @hedislimanetwit garments for YSL this season ... a true punk visionary. Modern, forward, LA VERITE."
Saint Laurent: The Movie? TWO films set for production later this year…
Yves Saint Laurent Director: Jalil Lespert Star: Pierre Niney Backed by: Pierre Bergé, close companion and business partner of Saint Laurent Focus: Saint Laurent’s love life
“Two films on YSL? I hold the moral rights in the work of YSL's image and mine have authorized that of Jalil Lespert.” -Bergé (who then hinted that a trial may be in the near future)
Saint Laurent Director: Bertrand Bonello Star: Gaspard Ulliel Backed by: Francois-Henri Pinault, head of Kering Focus: Saint Laurent’s success in the 60s and 70s
According to The Telegraph, Bonello's team wrote to Bergé explaining that they had not sought his blessing because they wanted true "freedom of expression". It's believed that the businessman's lawyers responded immediately denying any use of his image or Saint Laurent possessions.
Lady Gaga’s New Look
The pop icon will be “toning own” her style for
her upcoming album, Artpop, due out this
November. Designers including Alexander
Wang, Hedi Slimane for Saint Laurent, Balenciaga, Armani, and Versace have
been confirmed to be designing custom pieces for her more refined and
chic wardrobe.
Spotted: Musicians Loving Saint Laurent Paris
“ […] Slimane's just hit another rock 'n' roll high point: outfitting Keith Richards for the Rolling Stones' current anniversary concerts. So far the man hit the stage on Sunday in a graine de poudre (tightly woven wool) waistcoat and wore a navy polka dot scarf by the designer for the premiere of Crossfire Hurricane … ”
Bruno Mars in Saint Laurent Paris leather biker jacket at Bank Nightclub
Spotted: Hollywood Loving Saint Laurent Paris
an impressive line-up of fans: (from left) Scarlett Johansson, Katy Perry, Lady Gaga, Emma Roberts
even Anna Wintour’s daughter, Bee Shaffer, approves
New Concept Store Design
“The 3,200-square-foot Shanghai store is the first of its kind, designed by Mr. Slimane and set to sell both men’s and women’s ready-to-wear
lines. According to YSL, the retail space’s design references the French Art Deco and Union des Artistes Modernes (French Union of Modern Artists) movements. Key materials include black and white marble and raw
concrete with gold, silver, mirror and glass accents, furnished with 1930s-inspired displays.
Initially the store will carry products designed by Slimane’s predecessor,
Stefano Pilati. As for Mr. Slimane’s new creations, fashionistas will have to wait until next year: His first collections are expected to hit shelves in
January 2013.
Saint Laurent Paris opens Sept. 25 [2012] at Reel Department Store, 1600 Nanjing Xi Lu, Shanghai.” –The Wall Street Journal (September 25, 2012)
Hedi Slimane’s New Retail Vision
Corporate Happenings
A New CEO
Paul Deneve heads to Apple to head a “special projects” division (“another way of companies designating cutting-edge products or technologies that will either work at the markets, or won't … They're usually futurist and revolutionary.”)
Effective September 1, former executive director of Bottega Venetta Francesca Bellettini will replace Deneve.
“ ‘Hedi Slimane has a clear creative vision for Saint Laurent,’ François-Henri Pinault [CEO of Kering] noted. ‘He has successfully rejuvenated and repositioned the brand in line with Yves Saint Laurent’s original message in 1966. This reform project was essential to ensure that Saint Laurent is in step with the times, and to secure its success. Today, the brand is one of the world’s most prominent fashion houses and my ambition is that Saint Laurent is able to realize its considerable long-term potential for growth.’ ”
- Fashionista.com
Recap: Back in March 2012… Besides hiring Slimane as YSL’s ready-to-wear line’s new Creative Director,
Deneve had other big plans for a “complete brand overhaul”…
Overall Brand revolutionize fashion again, as Saint Laurent did in the 60s and catapult YSL to the scale of Chanel and Dior by January 2013, all aspects of new brand identity – including clothes – will be complete and
in stores
Business reorganize/upgrade production, product development, and merchandising
Stores open 15 stores per year all under the Saint Laurent Paris banner (Shanghai Berlin Paris…) French Art Deco and Union des Aristes Modernes-inspired stores stores of B&W ‘marble mazes’ and 30s-esque displays of gold, silver, mirrors, and glass Products accessories: Cabas Chyc bag and Tribute shoes will be upgraded/reworked and then carried over RTW: (presently accounts for the smallest percentage of sales) will feature a wider price range to attract new, younger clients
2011 March 2012 (enter Slimane) 2012
Did Slimane’s Entrance Affect Kering’s Financials?
“In the second quarter of 2013 Kering recorded €2.3 billion in revenue, up 1.6% on second quarter 2012 as reported…” - Kering 2013 First Half Report (page 13)
Retrobranding
Rebranding Yves Saint Laurent RTW to Saint Laurent Paris “Slimane, the man behind the name change (as well as the complete redesign of YSL’s brick and mortar stores–watch that space) tells Vanity
Fair this month that he thinks the criticism has to do with people failing to understand that the new branding is inspired by the original
branding used by the label’s namesake back in 1966 when the ready to wear line was first established.” –Fashionista.com, August 2012
“…Then, last week, Saint Laurent’s press office sent out a mass email instructing media on the nomenclature we should use when referring to the brand. “The House is referred to as ‘Yves Saint Laurent.’ The ready-to-wear collection by Hedi Slimane is correctly referred to as ‘Saint Laurent’. (‘Saint Laurent Paris’ is used in the logo but not when spoken/written about the collection). Collection credits, should you photograph any items, is [sic] correctly written ‘Saint Laurent by Hedi Slimane.’” –Business of Fashion
A Confusing Message?
“Saint Laurent, by Hedi Slimane, Wins
Wallpaper's 'Best Rebranding' Award”
new stripped-back and minimal Helvetica (left) replaces original Cassandre logo (right)
The brand's new packaging takes
its cues from Saint Laurent's
famous smoking jacket, with the
paper recreating the jacket's 'grain de poudre' wool
texture.