Volume 2 — Issue 2www.indoorgardenermagazine.comISSN: 1715-0949 – Bimonthly
Plus:• Indoor Plant Classification: 5 - The Main Orchid Families• My Idea Of The Perfect Plant• International Flora Montreal 2006• Gardening Philosophy: What Is “Natural”? What Is “Organic”?
HYDROPONIC AND AEROPONIC GARDENING
A Look At 15 Influential Systems
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September / October 2006
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Volume 2 – Issue 2September / October 2006
Published by: Green Publications
Publisher: J.M.
Managing editor: Bruno [email protected]
Contributing editors: Helene Jutras, Jessy Caron, Fred Leduc
Art Director: Anna Kanaras
Editorial coordinator: Bruno Bredoux
Collaborators in this issue:
Kari Bayne, Bruno Bredoux, Jessy Caron, Stan Daimon, Jim Gall (Rotogro Garden), Hedi Green, Paul Henderson, Edward Jackson, Helene Jutras, T.K., R. LaBelle, Fred Leduc, M.M., Ted Marchildon (Omega Gardens), Josh Morell (Growing Crazy – Hooked On Hydroponics), Roger Raynal, Réjean (EcoSystem), P. Steph (Summum), William Sutherland, vieux bandit.
Sales & advertising: Stan [email protected]@indoorgardenermaga-zine.com
Translation/Copy editing:
Helene Jutras
Cover design: Anna Kanaras with photos taken by Ted Marchildon (Omega Gardens), MegaWatt, Jim Gall (Rotogro Garden), Bruno Bredoux (International Flora Montreal), Jessy Caron (Orchids) and EcoSystem.
Illustrations: Anna Kanaras & USDA
Administration: R. LaBelle
Information: [email protected]
THE INDOOR GARDENER MAGAZINEPostal Station Saint-MichelP.O. Box 183Montreal, QC, H2A 3L9, CANADATel.: (514) 728-8118 Fax: (514) 728-1840www.indoorgardenermagazine.comISSN: 1715-0949
© 2006, Green Publications, Montreal, Qc, CanadaArticles, iconographic representations and photographs contained in this magazine cannot be reproduced, in whole or in part, without the written consent of the Publisher.
Legal deposit: Second Quarter 2005. National Library of Canada. Bibliothèque nationale du Québec.
Printed in Canada by Transcontinental
Conversion TableLinear Measure (imperial to metric)1 inch 2.54 centimetres1 foot (=12 inches) 0.3048 metre 1 yard (=3 feet) 0.9144 metre
Linear Measure (metric to imperial)Imperial 1 millimetre 0.0394 inch 1 centimetre (=10 mm) 0.3937 inch 1 metre (=100 cm) 1.0936 yards
Volume (imperial to metric)Metric 1 (imperial) fl. oz. (=1/20 imperial pint) 28.41 ml 1 (US liquid) fl. oz. (=1/16 US pint) 29.57 ml 1 (imperial) pint (=20 fl. imperial oz.) 568.26 ml 1 (US liquid) pint (=16 fl. US oz.) 473.18 ml 1 (imperial) gallon (=4 quarts) 4.546 litres 1 (US liquid) gallon (=4 quarts) 3.785 litres
Volume (metric to imperial)Imperial 1 millilitre 0.002 (imperial) pint, 0.176 pint 1 litre (=1000 ml) 1.76 pints
Mass (imperial to metric)1 ounce (=16 drams) 28.35 grams 1 pound (=16 ounces) 0.45359237 kilogram 1 stone (=14 pounds) 6.35 kilograms
Mass (metric to imperial)Imperial 1 milligram 0.015 grain 1 kilogram (=1000 g) 2.205 pounds
Temperature To convert Fahrenheit to Celsius, subtract 32 degrees and divide by 1.8. To convert Celsius to Fahrenheit, multiply by 1.8 and add 32 degrees.
BC Plant’s product, which should have been described in the same column, is the
Monster Booster. Here is a brief description of it: “Monster Booster 0-53-33 is
a pH-controlled nutrient solution designed to effectively increase the size of the
flowers and fruit.” Our apologies to both companies.
Page 63: The text accompanying the photograph of the yellow suspension cable,
in the lower left of the page, did not print. Here is the entire text as it should have
appeared: PowerMaster Overhead Spring Balancers are specially designed to
free the operator from the weight of the hand tools. When properly balanced by
adjusting spring tension, the tools become almost weightless in the hands of the
operator, and can be moved up and down with very little effort. Characteristics:
rugged construction, contained main spring, self-lubrication bearing, quick
connecting and disconnecting of load, automatic drum lock arrangement,
external tension adjustment, swivel hook for any operating angle; useful for:
portable tools, welding guns, bag closers, general use. To reduce operator fatigue
and increase efficiency. To see videos of the spring balancers in action, visit
www.springbalancers.com (site in English, French and German). – B.S. See also our
Q&A section in this issue for a list of North American distributors.
Volume 1 – Issue 5: Contrary to the photo credit that appeared on page 46, none of
the photographs printed in the “Strawberry Fields Forever” article came from K and
S Greenhouse’s collection. Thank you.
Volume 1 – Issue 2, Page 77: The Tell 2 Friends Indoor Gardening & Hydroponics
company did not approve the use of its web site logo by our graphic artist in its ad
appearing in The Hydroponic World Of North America (4th line, 2nd column). We
apologize. The company has supplied its own artwork for the following issues.
ERRATA Volume 2 – Issue 1Page 4: Contrary to
what was written in
the erratum on ballasts,
the Supernova model is
manufactured by Brite-
Lite Group and not by
BioFloral.
Volume 1 – Issue 6
Page 26: In the article
“Plant Foods – Part 2”
under “The Plant Food
Products Available On
The Market Today”,
— second column,
fourth paragraph, – two
products were switched.
Monster Bloom 0-50-30
was attributed by mistake
to BC Plant Products,
while it is made and
distributed by Grotek®.
�THE INDOOR GARDENER VOLUME 2 – ISSUE 2
Photos: Grotek
® & Blue M
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asTABLE OF CONTENTS
6 Editorial There Is A Season, Turn Turn Turn… By Bruno Bredoux
8 introduction Nettle, Fern and Foxglove Are in Town! International Flora Montréal 2006: The Garden Passion A tour of the new horticulture, landscape and design industry exhibit in Montréal By Bruno Bredoux
13 industry Homage: Claude Poirier (1936 – 2006), cofounder of Systèmes rotatifs Bonzaï 360º By B.B.
14 notEs & nEws The Unknown History Of The Carrot By Helene Jutras
China: Super Corn Gives Super Yield …and other notes and news By B.B. and al.
18 tips & tricks: My Idea Of The Perfect Plant By Fred Leduc
20 draw For our subscribErs: An EcoSystem Is Waiting For You!
22 Hydroponics and aEroponics GardEninG A Look At 15 Influential Systems By W.S.
28 tEcHniquEs Supercharge Your Ecosystem Naturally: 5 Elements For Good Gardening By Réjean
29 GallEry The Omega Gardens In Pictures By Ted Marchildon
36 GallEry The Rotogro Garden In Pictures By Jim Gall
38 tHE wilt prEvEntion ExpErimEnt After adapting a new technique of cloning, our gardener discovered that the plants were more prone to wilting. He decided to try two of the more popular wilt prevention products available. Here are the results! By Josh Morell
40 cHoosinG a sitE to transplant your plants outdoors – part 2 The second part of our tips for transplanting your crops outdoors By Paul Henderson
Protecting Your Outdoor Crops And Flower Arrangements By B.B., H.J., W.S. & P.H.
46 indoor plant classiFication 5 – The Main Orchid Families The fifth instalment in our series about indoor plants and their care By Jessy Caron
50 plant pHysioloGy Glucids: An Explanation By Roger Raynal
52 GardEninG pHilosopHy What Is “Natural”? What Is “Organic”? How to determine what is natural and what is organic – the beginning of an explanation. By Bruno Bredoux
55 tHE Hydroponic world oF nortH amErica
60 sHoppinG: A Selection Of New Products That Caught Our Attention For This Fall By B.B., Kari Bayne, Jessy Caron, T.K., M.M., W.S. & P. Steph
64 q & a Questions keep pouring in. We answer the most relevant ones! By Edward Jackson, B.B. & H.G.
volumE 2 — issuE 2 / sEptEmbEr — octobEr 2006
46
188
52
�THE INDOOR GARDENER VOLUME 2 – ISSUE 2
Photos: Bruno Bredoux & Fast Cool Cars
EDITORIAL
The 20th century allowed mankind to elevate its habitat in
the air to gain space on build-able land with an exponential
value and also simply to better spread the dense population
of large cities. The trend’s symbol remains the sky-scraper,
always higher, always more creative, glass towers that seem
so frail and yet are so strong! No imaginable infernal tower
has ever stopped the construction of new towers, each
defying the laws of physics.
Another symbol of the 20th century, the car, has had another
destiny. After the SUV and Hummer craze, the trend has
swung back towards compact, smaller vehicles that guzzle
less gas but are extremely well designed to maximize interior
space. When my North-American friends used to travel to
Europe, they would always have their picture taken next to a
Smart, the symbol, according to them, of vehicular ridicule.
Since the Smart was launched in Canada, two years ago, the
same friends have developed an undying enthusiasm for the
vehicle’s interior spaciousness.
Nothing is trendier than a Smart, a Mini-Cooper or a New
Beetle. Indeed advertisers are ready to pay you, if you own
such a vehicle, to have you roll in an advertising banner –
your trendy car, apparently, is perfect to carry their colourful
advertising messages, and they are always eager to discover
new supports for their ads. Why am I going on about such
clichés from the 20th century? Simply because with rotating
gardens, aeroponic pipeline systems, towers and hydroponic
carousels, we may hold the equivalent trend that will define
the new century.
I was recently stunned by the design of a new Canadian
rotating garden. H2O Dynamic’s B-Pod’s design is just as
beautiful as a Smart, if not
more so. With its metallic
yellow support hoops
– a complete circle
for the wheel
support and a half-
circle embedded in
the first as feet,
it is like a huge
smiley face with
a HPS central lamp
acting as a Cyclops’ eye! Unfortunately I cannot yet print
a picture of this funky jewel here, but visit the website (in
construction) www.h2odynamic.com: the first prototype is
shown on the home page.
Just like sky-scrapers and
tiny cars, hydroponic
systems specifically
designed for small
indoor spaces
also have their
nay-sayers. Some,
however, are already
dreaming awake, and
their utopian vision will
certainly become reality one day.
Thus Ted Marchildon, from Omega Rotating Gardens, sees
the streets of future suburbia transformed into hydroponic
farms under guerrilla-style tarps, cultivation wheels stacked
up with the famous carousels, that would be able to feed
entire neighbourhoods in large cities. He has even calculated
that we could feed three people with one linear foot of
road with such a garden! And downtown, he is thinking of
stacking up the systems to create vertical gardens. Science-
fiction?
Not really. Columbia University’s Environmental Health
Science and Dr. Dickson Despommier are already working
on a vertical farm project (www.verticalfarm.com), a
scientific approach that aims to redefine agriculture for the
21st century and after… The challenge? In 2050, 80% of
the world’s population will be piled up in urban centres,
while mankind already uses 80% of all fertile lands currently
available for agriculture. Once the land runs out, we will
have to find new ways to feed the world. Now is the time to
start making the 21st century the century of hydroponics –
whether complex or simplified. Every one of us, humankind
as a whole, will benefit!
Bruno Bredoux
The Indoor Gardener Magazine
August 2006
There Is A Season, Turn Turn Turn…
Will the 21st
century take the
hydroponic leap?
�THE INDOOR GARDENER VOLUME 2 – ISSUE 2
Photos: vieux bandit & Bruno Bredoux
INTRODUCTION
Ironically, at the beginning of the path of the extremely sophisticated International Flora Montréal
2006 — the Garden Passion, display number 3 is called “Native Canadian Plants”. With the
collaboration of Pépinière rustique, this exhibit offers a flourishing of common native plants that
grow anywhere in Canadian thickets, marshes and vacant lots. Urtica dioica (nettle), Athyrium filix-
femina (lady fern) and Digitalis purpurea (purple foxglove) are joining the throngs of trendy plants in
this first edition of the exhibit which is replacing the famous Mosaïcultures in Montréal’s old port’s
Parc des Écluses. The Official Guide indeed tells us it is “a strong trend”. We couldn’t agree more.
We are simply worried because the creator of plot 19, “Emerald Enchantment”, apparently did not
inform herself much about the preferred location for fern before transplanting these poor forest plants in
the bright open sun instead of in a shady humid corner. They will probably not last as long as the exhibit!
That is not the only paradox to be found in this exhibit that multiplies the points of view without offering
a coherent whole. Avant-garde and the worst of kitsch go hand in hand.
Nettle, FerN aNd Foxglove are iN towN!InternatIonal Flora Montreal 2006By BruNo Bredoux
Solamente Una Vida
SOGO Garden“I Spy” Garden
Between Earth and Sky
�VOLUME 2 – ISSUE 2 THE INDOOR GARDENER
Phot
os: v
ieux
ban
dit &
Bru
no B
redo
uxINTRODUCTION
During the press conference held on June 15th,
Luce Daigneault, General Director of the Fédération
interdisciplinaire de l’horticulture ornementale du Québec
(FIHOQ), an organisation rassembling nearly 5,000 industry
people, said right off that “trends are just like ice cream
flavours. It’s all a matter of taste and anything goes.” That
is true, but the plants included in the creations of artists,
outdoor landscaping specialists and landscaping architects
must still be viable outside their natural habitat. The visitor
is happy to discover lush, chaotic or calculated ensembles
that offer contrast with the urban flowerbeds made up of
rows of French marigolds alternating with rows of scarlet
sage that we had been offered for decades. A partnership
with the Association des architectes paysagistes du Québec
(AAPQ) indeed ensures, as its President, Marie-Claude
Robert, indicated, “renewal, since Flora, thought-out three
years ago, presents gardens done by young designers”.
According to her, Flora is none other than “a garden of
gardens, and taking care of the landscape is taking care
of the passion.” She believes that the passion for gardens
stems from the tiny plot that a person starts to cultivate:
“residential gardens open consciousness to large scale
gardening.” Another trend of Flora Montréal is also, clearly,
sustainable development and design. According to Mrs.
Robert, the 17 creations presented here by a few of the
400 AAPQ members brightly honour the choice made by
UNESCO’s Global Alliance for Cultural Diversity, which has
designated Montréal as “UNESCO City of Design” as part of
the Creative Cities Network, on May 17, 2006.
It is through a stroll that the visitor is invited to let him
or herself be amazed by a succession of gardens and of
new expressions, offered by the cream of the profession
represented by 41 international creators invited to Montréal.
The wanderer strolls through the itinerary, through eight
types of gardens: city gardens, nature gardens, slope
gardens, nurturing gardens, rooftop gardens, avant-garde
gardens, streetside gardens and balcony gardens. In each
area, the creations were designed, according to Christine
Vaillancourt, General Director of the Association des
paysagistes professionnels du Québec (APPQ), “to push
back the limits of landscaping. Those creations offer links
between nature and quality of life. […] With Flora Montreal,
landscaping confirms its status as an art form.” Gilles Lemieux,
formerly site coordinator of the Canadian Tulip Festival and
a humorous man (“I’ve gone from one flower to an entire
garden!”) adds that “Flora is an opportunity to promote
all kind of gardens […] and a showcase for the industry.” It
is him who answers the unspoken question of the curious
visitor about the on-site presence of a booth maintained by
the Association des chiropracticiens du Québec, a booth that
could seem out of place in this context: “Chiros are here to
explain how to work in the garden without ending up in the
clinic on Monday morning.” Phew! In truth, to reproduce
most of the gardens presented here in your backyard, all
your physical capacities will be required! You can also visit
the conference hall, where for 12 weeks, conferences will
be offered on 12 different themes related to gardening and
the profession. Perhaps you will come out with elaborate
professional notions.
One of the major themes of the exhibit remains, through
each of the eight types of gardens displayed, that of the
Solamente Una Vida
Solamente Una Vida
10THE INDOOR GARDENER VOLUME 2 – ISSUE 2
Photos: vieux bandit & Bruno Bredoux
INTRODUCTION
integration of the residential garden within
the urban landscape. As we are reminded
by Raquel Peñalosa, Artistic Director
and Head of product development
for International Flora Montréal,
“Each garden is a contribution to
the city, as the three spiral staircases
are a Montreal landmark. […][My]
garden is also for the people who pass
in front of my house, too.” One of the
most contemporary aspects of this type of
urban garden, which has been richly developed
within the exhibit, is that of rooftop gardens. Rooftop
gardening is at the avant-garde of urban landscaping
and offers a strong environmentalist dimension. Rooftop
gardens have an impact on the quality of the air within a
city. Mrs. Peñalosa insists: “Rooftop gardening could also
be a new floating landscape, a new way of looking at a
city. […] It also promotes sustainable design, like designer
Nathalie Bédard does when she recoups rain water for a
residential garden.” In the presentation of her “If Water”
garden, Nathalie Bédard point out that “If water and its
infinite cycle, basic element of all gardens, would be used
rightly the results would be peaceful and harmonious living
spaces as elegant as ecologically sustainable.” Finally, Mrs.
Peñalosa is happy to report
that the visitor is under no
outside influence: “There is
no commercial information
within the garden, in
order to maintain the real
experience of strolling
through a garden. […] The
promenade takes you from
city gardens to country
garden, from discovering
inclined garden to
exploring the slopes.”
Few creators were present
during our visit. We did,
however, glimpse at Lizzie
Taylor, a British designer,
who was parading behind
a laptop computer in the
metallic egg installed
in the center of her
“SOGO Garden (small
office garden office)”.
Mrs. Taylor’s idea is
to bring telecommuting to the backyard with
this brushed steel case containing a swivel
chair, a desk for the laptop and a seat
for visitors, allowing for work meetings
in the middle of a greenery ocean. The
association of the metallic structure and
the luxuriant garden offers a shortcut
between the office tower and the
flowerbeds of downtown, all in one level.
Australian Jack Merlo, for his part, offers
us “Cocoon”, an outdoor cocooning garden
where rounded shapes of a very 1960’s structure
(think of all the era’s plastic objects) shelter a garden table,
chairs, a hammock and a fireplace, gently preparing us for a
descent into a blue cool pool. The cocoon, with the organic
curves of its exterior structure, is both a refuge (from the
city, from the rain…) and a social locale. In the Québec firm
Catalyse Urbaine’s “Between Earth and Sky”, the cocoon
impression comes from living walls, the first such experiment
by Ontario company ELT Easy Green, which sponsors the
creation. Greg Garner, President of ELT, and Justin Lefebvre,
Marketing Director, were on the site to explain to us how,
from developing rooftop gardens, they came to develop
these living walls, veritable weavings of matter and textures,
where various plants such as basil, beans and sweet peas
grow vertically by taking root in small containers slightly
Foxglove (Emerald Enchantment)
Christine Vaillantcourt, APPQ General Director
Gilles Lemieux, Site Coordinatior,
Flora Team
Luce Daigneault, FIHOQ General Director
Marie-Claude Robert, AAPQ President
Michel Gauthier, Executive Director,
Flora Team
Raquel Peñalosa, Artistic Dirrector and Head of Product Development,
Flora Team
iNterNatioNal Flora MoNtréal 2006 press coNFereNce speakers, JuNe 15th.
Hydrotech Rooftop Gardens Showcase
12THE INDOOR GARDENER VOLUME 2 – ISSUE 2
Photos: vieux bandit & Bruno Bredoux
INTRODUCTION
angled towards the sky and held by a vertical
metallic structure. With many rooftop
garden projects in Toronto and Montreal,
ALT Easy Green is now moving towards the
United States, where three of its projects
are under way.
Near the river, we found peace in the
“Solamente una vida” garden created
by StuartWebsterDesign and done by
DaccordWebsterDesign from Montréal.
Landscaping architect Pierre Bilodeau
was on site to help us discover this space
dedicated to “relaxation, pleasure and
perfect to meet people.” Pierre and his
brother Christian created screens, wood
structures with elaborate grid designs that
create boundaries and mark the spaces
of the garden which opens onto the river
and on other intimate discoveries such as a
water basin with three deck chairs waiting
for us to relax after a tiring walk through the
city. There we find in a corner our Urtica dioica, the now-
trendy nettle. A little further, Marie-Ève Lussier’s “Emerald
Enchantment” also uses, on the ruins of a chapel (or is it
Cinderella’s castle?) with sumptuous stained glass, the most
rustic plants in the exhibit: many varieties of foxglove, ferns
and nettles. Spread between the sunlit and the shady garden,
the native plants seem to grow in an abandoned garden,
where time and nature took back their rights on a spot that
was once cultivated and cared for. Finally, with the help of
Hydrotech, we discovered roof covering systems that, with
their alveolate design, allow the recuperation of rain water
to feed a rooftop garden. The cut of the successive layers,
with various types of more or less corrugated membranes
used to create the green roofs, are set up in two displays
the visitor can admire, sitting on a magnificent bench made
with this same water-recuperating material. Surprise: it is
very comfortable!
And if all this bores you, you can take refuge at the Flora
Café, where you will be served the delicious Flora cocktail
in a martini glass: mango, strawberry, Grand Marnier and
crushed ice. Yum!
International Flora Montréal 2006 is on until October 9th,
2006. www.floramontreal.ca
Artists and companies listed:Lizzie Taylor Garden Design: www.designing-gardens.co.uk
Jack Merlo Design: www.jackmerlodesign.com
ELT Easy Green: www.eltgreenroofs.com
StuartWebsterDesign: www.swdla.com
DaccordWebsterDesign: www.daccordwebsterdesign.com
Nathalie Bédard / Images & Paysages: [email protected]
Catalyse Urbaine: www.catalyseurbaine.com
Marie-Ève Lussier / Mel Design: www.meldesign.ca
Hydrotech: www.hydrotechmembrane.ca
INDUSTRY
Top & Right: Cocoon by Jack Merlo
Bottom: vieux bandit, our photographer, in the middle of the Blue Stick Garden, by Claude Cormier
Phot
os: B
onza
ï Gar
dens
INDUSTRY
Claude Poirier, who launched the rotating gardens Bonzaï 360º, died on June
18th, at the Valleyfield (Qc) hospital after an infarction linked to an aneurysm.
He had been born on December 28th, 1936 and after a well-filled
professional horticultural career, his passion for indoor gardening
took over during his retirement. From then on, he used well the
days that this new period in his life offered. For Christmas 2002,
inspired by technology developed by NASA, he made a first
prototype of what was to become the Bonzaï rotating garden. To
make sure everything worked properly, he demonstrated the system in his own
living room in front of his wife, Monique Blondeau. Enthused by her husband’s
project, she tied a Christmas bell to the wheel, and its happy ringing certified that
the prototype worked well.
The year 2003 marked the true beginning of the business, which is now well
established in the North-American hydroponics landscape.
Claude Poirier first developed the model that can contain
240 plants. At first, the rotating garden models were archaic
and made of rough hardened steel. With Claude Poirier’s
experience and his increasing interest for lighter, more flexible
materials, the wheels have come to be made of aluminium.
Due to demand for smaller models, Claude then launched
the simplified model, designed to cultivate 120 plants. It was
a great success. The last model to be designed is that holding
360 plants. The demand is now great for this model and the company builds
about one hundred units per year, following grouped orders of 5 to 15 models
at a time.
The Bonzaï rotating garden offers an optimal light diffusion on 360º, which
makes the most of every available lumen. The inside cylinder allows the gardener
to cultivate a surface 3.14 times larger than the surface of the cylinder if it was
unrolled on the ground. What’s more, the plants are perpendicular to the light
source, which is the best possible position of the plants around the light, both for
distance and orientation. The system is based on the optimization of geotropism
to better spread the growth auxins within the plant. The effect produced on the
plant by the system’s 360º rotation is called orbitropism. Innovation is still the
company’s priority and its technicians pay attention to the technology’s evolution.
A new Bonzaï rotating garden model is now being designed that will contain a
glass tube with only one light bulb, which will allow the light to mode horizontally
within the system.
The Indoor Gardener’s team and I wish to offer our sincere condolences to Mrs.
Monique Blondeau, Claude Poirier’s widow, and to Mr. Jean-Pierre Morin, his
partner. We also want to thank them for the time they spent talking with us for
the writing of this note.
B.B.
(see also: www.4hydroponics.com/hydroponics/bonzai.asp)
Homage:
Claude Poirier (1936 – 2006) cofounder of Systèmes rotatifs Bonzaï 360º
1�THE INDOOR GARDENER VOLUME 2 – ISSUE 2
Photos: D.R
.NOTES & NEWS
Ask any toddler what color is a carrot and he will happily
exclaim “Orange!” Now turn on the time machine, and
ask a toddler in ancient Egypt or, 2000 years ago, in what
is now Afghanistan. The ancient toddlers will answer:
“White! Purple! Yellow!
Green! Black!” Yet each
toddler is correct. Our
beautiful Daucus carota
(from the Celtic word for
“red in color” and the
Greek word for “to burn”),
our common orange root
vegetable, has only been
orange since the 1600’s!
5000 years ago, and most
likely for thousand of years before, the wild carrot was used
in Middle Asia as a medicinal plant – and its roots were most
often white or purple. The root,
leaves and seeds of the carrot
have long been used as a diuretic,
an antiseptic and a stimulant. In
the 10th century, purple carrots
were cultivated in Afghanistan,
Pakistan and northern Iran, and
purple, white and yellow carrots
were imported to be grown in
Southern Europe by the 14th
century. 2800 years ago, the
Egyptians used carrot leaves as
a culinary herb, and when the
Roman Empire expanded, carrots
followed it – and other vegetables
and herbs – as far as Britain.
So how did the orange carrot,
filled with beta-carotene, come
to be? The story goes that
it was developed by Dutch
horticulturists, who crossed different colours of carrots
to get the orange carrot – as an emblem of the House of
Orange and the struggle for Dutch independence. In the
16th century, the Dutch territories were ruled by Spain, and
this control led to the 1586-1648 Eighty Years’ War, which
ended with Dutch Independence. The orange carrot thus
developed contains four times the amount of beta-carotene
as its predecessors.
This romantic story is somewhat questioned by historians,
who believe that the orange colour was developed simply
because the purple carrot gave soups and dishes an
unappetizing brownish colour. Dutch paintings from the
16th century, interestingly enough, display long purple and
yellow carrots – and, in later years, orange and almost every
colour in between. It was soon
found that cows fed carrots gave
richer milk and more golden-
coloured butter.
By the 1700’s, Holland was
the leading carrot breeding
country, and all modern orange
carrot varieties are derived from
the four varieties that existed
then: Early Half Long, Late Half
Long, Scarlet Horn, and Long
Orange. The modern carrot
was further helped by French
botanist Vilmorin-Andrieux, who
produced garden biennial types
of carrots with a fleshy root.
The purple carrot, containing
purple-red pigments called
anthocyanins, is back in some
The Unknown History Of The Carrot
By Helene Jutras
Phot
os: D
.R.
NOTES & NEWS
supermarkets – some say it is a new colour for the carrot,
but now you know better! Many companies now offer
seeds for you to grow your own white, yellow, purple or red
carrots, each with their own specific health benefits. The
“regular” orange carrots growing in your garden, however,
could spontaneously become purple and change texture if
their shoulder is above ground and exposed to the sun.
1�THE INDOOR GARDENER VOLUME 2 – ISSUE 2
Photos: Bruno Bredoux & D
.R.
NOTES & NEWS
China: Super Corn Gives Super Yield
Chinese researchers have recently produced new
corn species, with their indicators approaching that
of the so–called “super corn”. Zhao Jiuran, Director
of the Corn Research Center, a part of the Beijing Academy
of Agriculture and Forestry told reporters that the center
has screened out four hybrid corn combinations from some
10 thousands hybrids. The selected
combinations have registered a
yield exceeding 900 kg, very close
to the expected yield of 1,000 kg/
mu (1 mu = 0.0667 ha.) for a super
corn. Their other major indicators,
including quality, resistance, seeding
capability, are also approaching that
of a super corn.
Under the project initiated by the Beijing Municipality for
super corn innovations and establishing a standard corn
DNA fingerprint database, China
will augment and create new corn
species, using extensive fine quality
corn species both from home and
abroad, in an attempt to screen out
real super corn species.
Source: Newsletter of the Ministry of Science and Technology,
People’s Republic of China, issue #392.
Russia: The Largest Corn Species Collection In The World
The Komarov botanical institute’s seed bank, in St. Petersburg,
linked to Moscow’s Science Academy’s Botanical Garden,
and the third largest seed bank in the world, says it has,
through the years, accumulated the
largest collection of seeds of the various
international corn species (including
seeds of species that have vanished
since the collection was started in the
1950’s). Approximately 400 original
species of corn are still cultivated
(far behind the potato with its 4,000
species), as well as close to 10,000 hybrids. Corn is also the
plant whose number of strains keeps on increasing with the
arrival of genetically modified strains (see above).
The Russians thus are engaged
in a race to find and preserve
the rarest ancestral corn
varieties that some Central
and South American tribes
still cultivate but that are near
extinction. We must note here
that the Komarov seed bank has always specialized in native
cultivated plants. It, however, is facing difficulties of its own:
reduced budget, experimental
freezing methods, antiquated
locale, etc.
– B.B. (as per Libération)
Southern Africa: OPV Corn Strains Against Poverty And FamineNew OPV (open pollination variety) corn strains have been
developed by the researchers of the Swiss Agency for
Development and Cooperation, in collaboration with the
New Seed Initiative for Maize in Southern Africa (NSIMA)
project and Mexico’s CIMMYT (Centro internacional de
mejoramiento de maiz y trigo). The hybrid varieties kept at
the CIMMYT have allowed researchers to obtain new corn
strains that are drought-resistant and offer a better yield
that traditional species – even in arid or infertile soil.
The performances of the new strains (30 to 40 new strains
each year) are directly tested in the field by southern Africa
farmers. The OPV varieties were chosen because, when
compared to traditional or hybrid strains, they can be stored
and re-sown each year with no loss of characteristics or
performance. With hybrid and traditional varieties, farmers
needed to buy new seeds each year because the stored
seeds did not give a yield approaching that of the first year.
Nine to 12 millions hectares of corn are cultivated for
food in southern Africa. The NSIMA project only covers
approximately one million hectares of corn-cultivated land
since 1996, when it started. The area’s food security largely
depends on the expansion and success of this project.
Source: www.sdc.admin.ch/index.php
– B.B.
17VOLUME 2 – ISSUE 2 THE INDOOR GARDENER
Phot
os: B
runo
Bre
doux
, Sub
Pho
to P
ublic
& V
IPNOTES & NEWS
Iraq: Destruction Of A Priceless Seed Bank
Washington wanted to sow “the seeds of democracy” in
Iraq by launching its military offensive in 2003. In reality,
the Iraqi seed treasure did not survive! For years, Iraqis had
collected and referenced samples from all their precious
native strains in a national seed bank located – how ironic
– in Abu Ghraib, the town sadly famous for its prison and
the tortures there inflicted on prisoners by soldiers in 2004.
After the site was occupied and bombarded, the priceless
seed bank has vanished.
Source: www.horizons-et-debats.ch/actuel/32_12.htm
Norway: Plants Get Their Own NoahA Norwegian project intends to create a bunker in the
Svalbard Islands, in the Arctic, where seeds of all known
plants will be stored, in the hope of preserving them should
an international catastrophe occur. Thus preserved, the
seeds may keep their genetic properties for millennia.
– B.B., as per A.P.
Alternative Medicine: Burdock For All!
Burdock (Arctium lappa), commonly called “Love Leaves”,
is a very vigorous plant that grows on unused lands and
can reach up to 0.5 to 2 meters in height; its roots are
most commonly used. The despised burdock, in fact, treats
many ills. Its infused roots
cure the body of impurities.
As a fresh leaves poultice,
it treats dermatological
problems such as acne,
furuncles, abscesses, eczema
or psoriasis. It also contains
a hypoglycaemic substance
that helps to decrease the
blood sugar levels in case of
diabetes.
Burdock is also recommended to appease gout, bladder
lithiasis, rheumatisms, excessive sweating and measles.
Finally, according to the AFEAS Mauricie, burdock flowers in
an infusion are excellent against heart failure.
Dosage:
Infusion: 30 grams of roots
for 1/2 litre of water. Boil for
3 minutes, allow to steep
for 10 minutes.
Decoction: boil 10 grams
of roots in 750 ml of water,
allow it to reduce by one
third, filter; drink 250 ml
of tepid liquid before each
meal.
For a dry flower infusion, throw in a handful of flowers per
pint of water, steep for 20 minutes, allow to cool and filter;
drink cold.
Sources: www.lepetitherboriste.net and La nature à votre service,
AFEAS Mauricie.
St.Laurence River: Water Quality Improving
Twenty years ago it was estimated that the St.Laurence
River was slowly dying. Since the 1980’s, however, the
water quality has greatly improved. According to Luc
Bergeron of the Ville-Marie ZIP (Priority Intervention Zone),
“Brown water that is not clear like that of a pool does not
mean it is polluted”. Of 115 sample stations in 2005, 72
received a water quality reading that was sufficient to allow
swimming. The bacteriologic quality of the shore water is
thus considered good and without danger.
Source: Métro
– B.B.
1�THE INDOOR GARDENER VOLUME 2 – ISSUE 2
Photos: Fred LeducTIPS & TRICKS
Unlike most gardeners, I treat
my house plants roughly;
I guess I treat all my
plants roughly. I want
plants that are tough
and not too needy. My
idea of the perfect plant
is a plant that you can
forget about for months and
when you come back to it, it looks
like you have been giving it constant loving care. When it’s
time to make more plants, I want a plant off of which you
can break a piece, throw it on the ground, step on it, and
it will spring to life. It also needs
to be tough enough to handle all
kinds of weather — hot, cold, wet,
dry, whatever comes along — and
bugs have to hate it. That sounds
like a tall order, but I’ve found a whole group of plants that
are perfect for me: cacti.
There are about 8,000 different cacti and
they come in every shape and size. The
unique forms that some cacti take are quite
spectacular. Most often, cacti grow so
slowly that they will look the same for years.
This makes it easy to plan a permanent
display. There are plenty of cacti that grow
at reasonable rates and there are some cacti
that can grow 30 centimetres in one year!
There are also some cacti that are very fragile
and will not tolerate much abuse.
It’s easy to grow a great looking cactus
that makes you look like a great gardener. Most cacti take
so little care that I have to write a note on the
calendar to remind myself when to feed
them. The biggest problem with cacti is
over-watering. I do not water my cacti
from December to March and if any die,
I say “oh well, that one was not for me”.
After years of this process, I have a collection
of plants that take care of themselves and make
me look like a super gardener!
Here are some of the plants that made it on to
my list of tough plants:
The Hedgehog Cactus
(Echinocereus adustus)
is my first choice for
propagation. It produces
many pups or offshoots.
You can often purchase
a mature hedgehog
cactus in a 10 to 15
centimetre pot that can
have more than 40 pups
for less than $20.
To make the new plants,
simply break off the pups
and let the wound heal in direct sunlight for two to three
days. You can plant them any time after that in a standard
cactus soil mix or you can stand them up all together in
an empty pot and
over the next four
to six weeks they
will begin to develop
roots. You can
also delay planting for up to six months. If you’re not
going to plant them within three weeks of harvesting
them, however, they should be kept in a
shady location.
This is an excellent plant for the novice. For
a teacher, it can make an interesting and
inexpensive class project, easily producing 25
to 50 plants in a small area.
Joseph’s Coat Cactus (Opuntia monacantha
‘Variegata’) is my personal choice for the
strange and unique forms that it takes. I have
several that are just so bizarre looking. You can
see pink, yellow and green on one branch.
To make new plants, cut off a branch, let the
My Idea Of The
PerfecT PlanT
By fred leduc
Echinocereus adustus (Hedgehog Cactus)
There are about 8,000 different cacti and they come in every shape and size.
Joseph’s Coat
Phot
os: F
red
Ledu
cTIPS & TRICKS
wound heal in the sun for a few days and then plant it in
standard cactus soil mix.
For a phenomenal growth rate, no
cacti can beat the Peruvian Fence
Post, also known as Peruvian Torch
(Trichocereus Peruvianus). It often
grows more than 30 centimetres
a year. My personal best was 45
centimetres of growth in one season.
A fully mature Peruvian Fence Post
can be six metres tall.
A close second is the San Pedro Cactus
(Trichocereus Panchanoi), often
growing close to 30 centimetres a
year. What makes this cactus special
is that it has very small, finger-friendly
spines.
Both of these plants are an excellent
choice for grafting stock, often
accelerating the growth of much
slower varieties, increasing the growth
rate by a factor of ten. Making new plants from them is
done the same as for the previous plants. Cut off a piece, let
the wound heal and plant it.
All the plants I have mentioned here are as tough as nails.
They can all take the cold, right down to 0°C, and most
Trichocereus can take as low as -5°C. All of these plants can
be made dormant and stored at 5°C with no light and no
water for at least three months. When storing plants, it is
critical to maintain a temperature between 3 and 5°C.
care, lIghT Strong light is essential for growing cacti. It doesn’t have to
be direct sunlight, but four hours a day of strong light is a
minimum.
care, feedIng and WaTerIng The best growth is going to happen with regular feeding
and watering during the growing season. Only water your
cactus when the top quarter of the flower pot is dry; if your
pot is 10 centimetres tall, you have wait for the first 2.5
centimetres of the dirt to dry out before you can water.
Regular feeding with 15/30/15 water-soluble fertilizer at
haft strength every two weeks during the growing season
will give you very good results.
If you are someone that has to be doing something in
your garden all the time, then these plants are not for you
and you should try orchids or something else, but if like
most of us, you are always running out of time, cacti are
the answer!
Echinocereus adustus (Hedgehog Cactus)
San Pedro Cactus
Close-up of Joseph’s Coat
Joseph’s Coat and San Pedro Cactus
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22THE INDOOR GARDENER VOLUME 2 – ISSUE 2
Photos: GP Technology, Sunleaves, M
egaEatt, Ecosystem
, W.S. &
D.R
.INDUSTRY
The ebb & flow tables have been designed to remove nutrient
solution from the growing medium by creating slanted groves
to pull away the water from the growing medium. Water sits
on flat surfaces, leaving a puddle for the roots to sit in.
Having the drain groove on a slope actually pulls the water
away from the growing medium, giving more oxygen to the
root system.
Protect the roots from light: light and roots do not belong together.
By blocking out light, humidity will be considerably higher at the
root zone. Because roots do not dry out, they can expand further
in their search for plant food. More roots mean bigger, healthier
plants. It is a great system for aeroponics. Just drill holes in the top
plate to insert misting lines. It can also be used for nutrient
film technique (NFT): just slope the table and apply water
from one end of the table, gathering water at the other
end of the ebb table.
Each complete system comes with an ebb & flow table, a
drain fitting, a fill fitting, tubing, a pump, a reservoir and growing
medium. You may also need a bigger reservoir to hold larger
volumes of water (models are available for 160 litres or 240 litres of
water).
b) The AquATop from megAwATT
Aquatop is a grow table manufactured in Québec
by MegaWatt Hydro. There are three different
models available on the retail market: the smallest one
with a table size of 3’ x 6’, then a table size of 4’
x 4’ by 6’’ (30 holes) and the biggest one with a
table size of 4’ x 8’ (41’’ x 88’’ inside – 64 holes). It
also comes with a jet type mister in the complete
kit (4’ x 4’ complete kit or “kit 30” and 4’ x 8’
complete kit or “kit 64”).
c) The ecoSySTem
See page 28 for more details on this system (and page
20 to see how to get a chance to win an EcoSystem!).
Hydroponics and aeroponics GardeninG
By W.S.
I – HydroponIc GardenInG
In four words, what is hydroponics? Water working for you! Hydroponic growing consists of keeping the root system moist
with an enriched water solution holding the necessary mineral elements essential for plant growth.
This can be done with or without a growing medium. If you use a growing medium, the growing
medium should be inert and pH neutral so that it cannot interfere with the mineral elements being
delivered to the plants. If you change the nutrient solution on a regular cycle, the growth rate and yield
will normally be higher when gardening with hydroponics.
With hydroponics, a new nutrient solution is constantly being delivered to the
growing medium, leaching away the old nutrient solution and bringing new mineral
elements to the roots. The more frequently the nutrient is changed, the healthier the
growth will be. Once the solution gets in contact with the root system, the mineral
elements that have been dissolved into the water begin to be absorbed. When you
completely remove the old nutrient solution and make a fresh solution, you will
see faster growth. When using the same nutrient solution over time, with each passing day you will
notice a slowing down of the growth. Change the nutrient solution again and the speed at which
the garden grows is faster. After three or four days, you can see the slowing down of your
garden. The longest that a nutrient solution should be given to a plant is about four days.
When you top up a nutrient solution, always use plain pH adjusted water. Never use nutrient
solution to top up the reservoir, even if it is diluted. By changing the nutrient solution often,
we have the opportunity to grow our plants closer together. It also gives us healthier, larger
plants and flower clusters with faster growth, making much better use of our growing facility.
HydroponIc SyStemS A) ebb And flow (flood & drAin) TrAyS
Sunleaves Garden of Ease
Phot
os: E
urop
lant
, Bon
zaï,
Roto
gro,
O
meg
a G
arde
n &
D.R
.INDUSTRY
d) The coliSeum
Why grow on flat land, when you can make better use of space
with this garden, the Coliseum? The Coliseum makes the
best use of light. You need no reflectors here since the
light is trapped in the Coliseum. The Coliseum is built
round; there is no far corner that needs extra light. All the
plants get the same amount of light.
Each unit is 104 centimetres high and 170 centimetres
across five levels. Or get the 40 centimetres two-level
Coliseum. The Coliseum is plumbed and ready to
use; just add the growing medium. The Coliseum
has special drain tubing so that when you stack the
systems on top of one another, the nutrient solution
delivered to the top unit does not contaminate the
bottom unit. Fill with a mixture of 50% vermiculite
and 50% perlite (not included). Each section of the
Coliseum should be illuminated with a 1000 watt light,
within an air–cooled glass tube. Feed your plants twice
a day for five minutes and only use the nutrient solution
once, draining the excess to waste. Each section of the
Coliseum comes plumbed with up to 75 growing
spots to plug in your 7.6 cm NFT pots. All holes
will be predrilled.
The Coliseum is available in two different models
and parts: five level Coliseum (H 104 cm X 170 cm)
or two-level Coliseum (H 40 cm X 170 cm). It features a 30 gallon
horseshoe reservoir (18 cm X 170 cm), 7.6 cm baskets and 104 cm
air-cooled glass, stackable.
e) The bonzAi roTATing hydroponicS SySTem – 96, 240 And 360 SiTeS
The Bonzai Garden is a continuously moving garden, where the
plants are literally moved around the light source. At
one complete revolution per hour, your plants will not
fall off the wheel. The turning action of the Bonzai
Garden creates a stronger, shorter plant. According
to a satisfied user, “The Bonzai is actually an ebb and
flow hydroponics system on steroids.” There are three
different sizes to choose from: 96, 240 or 360 plant sites.
This unit takes about two hours to set up and plant with your
favourite plants.
f) The roTogro fully AuTomATed gArden SySTem (J.g.)The Rotogro garden is a flood and drain system. Plants are inserted
into rock wool type cubes, which are secured in the “quick drain
trays”. The garden is motorized and the trays are revolved 24 hours
a day around two center-fixed HID lamps. It takes approximately
one hour for the trays to complete one revolution. A pump is
placed at the bottom of the main reservoir and when switched on
it fills the top reservoir to the desired depth. The “quick
drain trays” are then revolved through the nutrient/water
mixture, feeding the plants. Once all the plants have been
fed, the pump is switched off, letting the nutrient/water
mixture drain back into the main reservoir. The Rotogro
garden uses 1/3 of the space and power of traditional ebb
and flow tables. There are two models to choose from: a
122 cm model with 240 plant capacities and the 122 cm
model with 312 plant capacities.
g) The VolkSgArden™ by omegA gArden™ inc. (e.m.)The Volksgarden™ is a new one–lamp plastic system from the
people at Omega Garden™. It is made of precision moulded plastic,
with the remaining structural components made of powder-coated
steel. The cylinder is chain driven and rotates a constant 24/7,
taking approximately 45 minutes to complete one full rotation. The
Volksgarden™ is designed to hold 7.6 cm cubes of rooting medium
and will accommodate up to 80 plants.
This new single lamp system includes:
- One-piece plastic cylinder;
- Individual plastic medium holders;
- Drive motor and pump;
- Glass lamp housing;
- Stainless steel feed tray;
- Powder-coated steel stand;
- (Light and reservoir are not included);
- Assembles in minutes – easy to use;
- Dimensions: 130 cm length, 81 cm deep, 162 cm high.
h) The gi-grow roTATing gArden (c.A.)This machine injects the exact required amount of liquid fertilizer
to each grow site. The trays are made of ultra solid and
sturdy stainless steel. Unlike plastic ones, these trays do
not break and they do not release contaminants. It is
possible to upgrade from 144 to 240 or to 336 plants by
purchasing an extra set of trays and accessories while
using the same frame. The light is not reflected, which
means it is much more effective. The rotation works
with 400, 600 and 1000-watt HPS or MH lamps. The
heat escapes through a glass tube that prevents the
plants from becoming dehydrated and the ends of the
leaves from becoming burned.
i) The mulTi gArden from b&b hydroponicS gArdenS
The Multi Garden is built out of plastic pails, mesh baskets, fittings, tubing
and growing medium. We use two different sizes of drain connectors and
different amounts of growing medium, so the price will vary accordingly.
The Multi Garden was the first garden that we built over 20 years ago
and will always be a favourite among hydroponics enthusiasts.
Sunleaves Garden of Ease
Photos: Grow
World, Chiang M
ai University, A
ero Rooter & W
.S.INDUSTRY
The bottom pail (B & C) acts as a reservoir,
holding about 10 litres of nutrient solution
per plant. The top basket holds your favourite
growing medium. All bottom pails are connected
together using 1.3 cm grommets with 1.3 cm
tees, 1.3 cm 90 degrees or, for more water flow,
2.9 cm drain fittings (E) on both sides of the pail.
Picture right top: 1.3 cm grommet and tee. Picture right bottom:
2.9 cm drain fitting. All the top baskets have a header line with
smaller tubing attached delivering the nutrient solution to each
plant (D).
All Multi gardens come complete and ready to set up. These are
great for large plants. (A) is the control center giving you access
to the pump and nutrient solution. (B) is the expanding module,
one for each plant you want. (C) is the end unit that completes
the system, giving one last plant in the line. Choose a pump that
will provide enough pressure to deliver the nutrient solution to the
end bucket. We provide 30 cm between pails, but if you would
like more distance between the pails, buy more header tubing and
drain line. We recommend using the larger 2.9 cm drain fitting for
years of trouble-free gardening. Change the nutrient solution every
four days for best results.
J) reSerVoir gArdenS from b&b hydroponicS gArdenS
All our reservoirs have lids that can be drilled for mesh
baskets. This will make an excellent drip garden
because the reservoir holds the nutrient solution
and the reservoir lid holds the plants up. Great for
closet gardening as the reservoirs are 60
cm X 1.2 m, 90 cm X 1.2 m and 1.2 m
X 1.2 m. Set them up together to get
the layout you want.
k) compleTe hydroponicS reSerVoir gArdenS in A box
Different companies and models (Highlander from Hi-Tech Grow
Systems, Coolkast from Grow World, Casa Box from Casa Grow, etc.)
offer a complete hydroponic garden in a box. They are illuminated
with a 600 watt HPS lamp, set up in an air-cooled canopy, and with
a hydroponic drip garden for 16 plants. The reservoir sits below
the unit, giving easy access to the nutrient solution. It has its own
ventilation system, bringing
fresh carbon dioxide to the
plants. The charcoal air filter is
behind the unit, purifying the
spent air from the growing
chamber. Add a CO2 regulator
to build up the CO2 levels
within the garden to achieve
outstanding yields. All this just from a
little box! It is so simple that grade school
kids are using hydroponics systems for
their science fairs and getting great food
(and marks!) for their efforts. If you have
a problem with your garden, do not wait
until you are past the point of trouble
and with no way of return; ask when you
first notice a problem.
II – aeroponIc GardenInG In four words, what is aeroponics? Atomization of water droplets. Nutrient solution, i.e. water, is pumped under extreme
pressure through a small opening, creating even more pressure, forced up against a pan,
shattering the water into very small dropplets. The smaller the droplets, the better. Once the
water is atomized to a mist, the nutrients, air and water are absorbed by the plants much
quicker.
In fact, aeroponics is a class of hydroponics where the roots of a plant are
suspended in a mist or fog of nutrient-rich solution, so the plant’s roots never
stand in water. Because the plants roots are bathed in a nutrient-enriched
water with plenty of oxygen, they will not rot. It has always been a problem to
get the right water–to–air mixture in soil. When you water soil, the soil is usually soaked with nutrient
solution and water, which fill up all the air pockets under the surface of the soil. As the soil dries, we get a better
air–to–water mixture, but soon, within a few hours, the air has replaced the water and the soil has started to become too
dry and plant growth slows down.
When the ideal mineral elements have been dissolved into the water with
plenty of oxygen, plants do not have to expand their roots in search of
these elements, allowing them to concentrate on growth and flowering or
fruit setting. Soil will only allow the right mixture to be available for a very
short period before one of the other extremes is reached, either too wet
or too dry. With aeroponics, that perfect condition can be achieved right
from seedling or cutting to the end of a plant’s life.
Phot
os: W
.S.,
F.H
.D. &
D.R
.
II bIS – aIroponIcS GardenInG
In four words, what is airoponics? Ultrasonic nebulizers
spreading nutrients. Airoponics is a very slight variation of
aeroponics: “(This) technique employs the use of ultrasonic
nebulizers or foggers instead of spray
nozzles to deliver nutrient solution.
This technique is considered even
more effective (than aeroponics). The
roots are indeed really in the air. It
encourages development of a healthy
plant root system, whereas with traditional aeroponics the
roots can become matted and bound. (Retrieved from
“http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aeroponics”).” We’ve got
another definition from directopedia.org: “Aeroponics is a
class of hydroponics where the roots of a plant are suspended
in a mist or fog of nutrient rich solution. Traditional aeroponic
techniques use pumps and misters more commonly found
in micro-irrigation systems, whereas state-of-the-art
techniques (airoponics) employ ultrasonic nebulizers which
render the nutrient solution into an extremely fine fog.”
In fact, ultrasonic foggers are the new airoponic method…
Some people suggest combining the fogger with the normal
aeroponic system to obtain the same results. Another great
difference between airoponics and aeroponics is the fact that
in the case of airoponics cultivation, the roots are moving
under the influence of the ultrasonic nebulizer, whereas in
the case of aeroponics cultivation, the roots are inert and
just suspended in the mist of nutrient solution provided by
the system of your choice. In airoponics, the droplets must
be smaller than 0.1 micron in order to fertilize the roots, and
there is always the risk that such a small droplet evaporates
before reaching its target! By comparison, aeroponics
systems accept five microns droplets.
aeroponIcS SyStemS
A) pipe dreAmS bAlcony, pipe dreAmS wAll gArden, pipe dreAmS mini 32, pipe dreAmS V 96, pipe dreAmS 192The strategically designed Aeroponic Growing
Systems from Pipe Dreams grow into the future. Made
from high quality material, including the introduction of
titanium injection into the grow tubes. Titanium places
a coating inside the grow tubes, stopping fungus spores
from repeatedly reoccurring in crops. The systems come
with a uniquely designed stand that tiers the growing
tubes to form a stadium effect, giving the grower
the ability to utilize the entire growing space. Comes
complete ready to set up: all systems contain growing tubes,
an aeroponic pump, a nutrient tank, a stand, all plumbing
fittings parts, misters, a water timer, web baskets, a feed
line, a feeder line, a drain line and an instruction manual.
Packed in cardboard boxes for easy shipping. A few
hours’ set up time and you’re ready to grow. My personal
INDUSTRY
Photos: W.S.
INDUSTRY
A) Tubing And fiTTingS
Most hydroponic stores carry all types of fittings and tubing, from
0.16 cm to 5 cm tubing, fittings
to connect tubing to tubing or to
growing systems. Let them help
you with your pluming needs.
A pump will lift water through
tubing to the growing chamber. By
using transfer barbs, we can connect two
different sizes of tubing together (A). To
get the water back to the pump station,
we connect fittings to the container and
attach the tubing to the fittings (B). If you
need more water delivery to the growing
chamber, such as in ebb and flow, just connect the fittings.
b) emiTTerS
The amount of water pouring onto the growing medium can be
controlled by emitters. Emitters come in a variety of flow
rates and are used on long header runs to even out the
flow of water to each plant. This way, the first plant
receives the same water volume as the last plant does.
c) wATer pump
Water pumps are used to move water from the reservoir to the
growing chamber or to waste. We carry different
sizes and types of water pumps. We have water
pumps that deliver from 90 gallons of water to
pumps that will give you more pressure than your
house plumbing does.
advice: just add the Aroma Formula
from Growing Edge Technologies at
half strength.
b) The Single mulTi Aeroponic gArden
Only need a few large plants? Then this is the garden for
you. Air pushes the nutrient solution up to the growing
chamber, vitalizing the nutrient solution with plenty of
dissolved oxygen. This is the type of system that we have
been recommending for over 17 years for school kids to
do for their school projects. We had a father that came
in looking for a cheap system they could make at home
for his daughter’s school project. They ended up at the Toronto
School Fair as Ottawa’s representative project. Excellent unit, with
years of fun.
c) The grow Tube
The Grow Tube is a vertical garden that allows you to
set up as many Grow Tubes as your room will allow.
Screw the eye hooks into the ceiling and hang up the
tubes. Place them exactly where you want them, in
any shape. 16 plant sites per tube with a special folded
lip to stop the plastic from cutting the plant stem. Use
a strong pump to lift the nutrient solution to the top of Grow
Tubes. Connect the bottom of Grow Tube to 2.9 cm flex tubing and
drain back into the reservoir.
Strawberry, lettuce, herbs, flowers all can be grown in the Grow
Tube. Use up against the townhouse to give you a very large-
yielding garden and enjoy your patio space. Can be used as wall
dividers in offices: bring some beauty to work! Besides, who wants
to be working alI day when you could be gardening! The Grow
Tube is sold alone – you choose the growing medium (heydite –
porous shell rock – or clay pellets) and the pump, reservoir, transfer
barbs and header tubing are sold separately.
d) The Trough SySTem
The Trough System is a great system for growing small plants. Two
plants per 30 cm, spaced as far apart or as close as you need them.
For a drip garden system, add header tubing with drip lines to each
plant. Or use as a nutrient film technique: set the
units on a slant about 2 cm over every 1.5 m
and feed from the elevated end, allowing the
roots to be covered in one to two centimetres
of an enriched nutrient solution.
The Trough Garden can even be set up as
an Airoponic System: just drill holes in the
Top Plate between each plant and provide a
bigger pump with misting heads attached
to the header tubing. The Trough Garden
is a very versatile garden that allows you to
set up many different systems.
Parts Available: 3 m troughs, 30 cm top plates, 7.6 cm baskets,
trough end caps and hole covers. Add-ons: reservoirs, pumps,
tubing, misting heads, drain fittings, grommets and tees, 90
degrees.
III – Water & aIr movement
As I said at the beginning of this article, hydroponics is water working for you. Now, to make water work for you, we will need
to store a volume of water in a reservoir and connect the pumps, fittings, tubing, reservoir and growing device all together.
Finding leak-proof fittings and methods of connecting different sizes of tubing together can become a challenge.
2�THE INDOOR GARDENER VOLUME 2 – ISSUE 2
Phot
os: W
.S.,
Sunl
eave
s &
KM
ITL,
Tha
iland
d) Air pump, Air STone And Air curTAin
Air pumps are used to pump air into water to enrich the water
with dissolved oxygen. There are three ways of enriching the water
supply with oxygen:
1 – The use of air pumps and air stones.
Air stones break up the air supply as small
as possible. If a large bubble and a small
bubble are released under water, when
these two bubbles break the water surface
they will add the same amount of oxygen
to the water. We can create considerably
more small air bubbles than large air
bubbles with the same equipment. Air
stones break up the air into medium-sized air bubbles. Air Curtains
break up the air into very tiny bubbles, and will not break down
and are cleanable.
2 – Water pumps, by lifting water up and forcing the water back
into itself, such as a waterfall does. This is the absolute best way of
adding oxygen to water!
3 – Use of chemicals that react with organic matter in the water
creating chemical oxygen (using O2 Power from Growing Edge
Technologies for example). There is special tubing on the market
when you need to split where the air goes, four ways or more (see
pictures).
INDUSTRY
2�THE INDOOR GARDENER VOLUME 2 – ISSUE 2
Photos: Stan Daim
onTECHNIQUES
1st element:Water goes down a slab which hangs vertically, forcing
down nutrients and oxygen, allowing the plant to feed
more efficiently.
2nd element:The plants growing vertically are forced to work constantly
against gravity, which pulls them up, and against the lights
that are pulling them down. By constantly fighting, the
plants get more vigorous, and then have a tendency to
produce more fruits with a higher sugar content.
3rd element:The Ecosystem’s circular growing
area allows maximum use of lighting.
Supercharge the Ecosystem by using 2
x 1000 watt bulbs and add a pull of at
least 800 CFM. The more oxygen that
passes through the Ecosystem, the
more CO2 your plants absorb. Doing so
promotes a more than productive yield.
• More oxygen = more CO2;
• 1000 watts = a higher range of lumens;
• Allows you to boost NPK to a higher level;
• CO2 + lights + NPK = supercharge;
• Quality + quantity = cost effectiveness.
4th element:Two ways to irrigate the Ecosystem:• Economical: fill the base of the Ecosystem with water.
Adjust the pH and ppm. Add Grozyme®. Install pump on
timer. Water for a half hour every three hours while the
lights are on, change the water once a week or every three
days (which is preferable). Empty the reservoir completely.
Wipe clean of all residue. Fill it again.
• One way: install a drain at the bottom of the
reservoir. Install the exterior reservoir. Connect the
Ecosystem drip line to the exterior reservoir pump.
Fill the exterior reservoir with water. Add nutrients
and Grozyme®. Adjust pH. Water for 1.5 to 3 minutes
every hour. You must verify that the plants receive
enough water. Start your pump when the water
drops down the slab. Stop the pump.
5th element:NPK:For the first few days, the plants need a rooting agent that
will also promote a more vigorous growth. We also use
an enzyme during every stage. Just add it during every
water change. If you’re growing exotic plants or large size
plants, you must use a product that stops growth when the
required size is obtained. In the last two or three weeks,
we recommend a bloom enhancer. Always do a week-long
rinse at the end.
Simple, efficient, compact and cost efficient… here are six good reasons to get an
Ecosystem:
• No need to buy expensive CO2 equipment;
• No need for a costly growth controller system;
• Professional type results, first time around supercharged
hydroponics;
• The first mathematic hydroponic growing system that fits
almost anywhere: in a room, a walk-in closet, a shed, a
garage, a basement, the kitchen,
etc;
• You obtain the finest hydroponics
technology created with the help
of Université Laval and Université
de Montréal’s HEC. The simplest,
most efficient unit on the
market;
• To obtain the same results
(using another system), three times the space would be
necessary.
So, with the Ecosystem, you will save time… and reap great
harvests! Visit www.ecosystemonline.com.
Supercharge your Ecosystem naturally: 5 elements for good gardening By Réjean
Phot
os: O
meg
a G
arde
ns™
GALLERY
Omega gardens in pictures
By Ted Marchildon
Our good basil.
Japanese mustard chard called Komatsuna in the Omega
Garden.
Japanese mustard chard called Komatsuna
30THE INDOOR GARDENER VOLUME 2 – ISSUE 2
Photos: Om
ega Gardens™
GALLERY
Sample of peas grown in the Omega Garden.
Red leaf lettuce called Revolution in the Omega Garden.Peas in the Omega Garden.
Omega gardens in pictures
By Ted Marchildon
31VOLUME 2 – ISSUE 2 THE INDOOR GARDENER
Phot
os: O
meg
a G
arde
ns™
GALLERY
Swiss chard in the Volksgarden.
Omega Garden model 10001 with Swiss
chard growing in.
Omega Garden model 10001 with Swiss
chard growing in.
Photos: Om
ega Gardens™
GALLERYSwiss chard in the Volksgarden.
Urban farming is made possible with the vertical Omega carousel.
Bottom: Urban middle carousel. This picture is what I call my “middle of the road idea” and it is my answer to “peak oil” so when
it becomes too expensive to drive and ship foods over great distances, we can convert the streets into farms — the power, water,
mouths to feed and workers are all there in that picture. My calculations say that three people can be fed per linear foot of roadway
done this way, so given even 10% or less of the roads, we can feed suburbia, cut greenhouse gas emissions and increase food
security, food safety, economic diversity, and solve many social issues. Downtown we could build up and stack the systems on top of
one another in “Vertical Farms” – see www.verticalfarm.com by Columbia University.
Phot
os: O
meg
a G
arde
ns™GALLERY
Top: Red leaf lettuce called Revolution growing in
the Omega Garden model 10001.
Bottom: Urban farming with the Omega carousel.
To learn more about the Omega Gardens, visit:
www.omegagarden.com.
Photos: Jim G
all
THE ROTOGRO GARDEN IN PICTURESBy Jim Gall
Lettuce (Lactuca) and basiL (Ocymum basiLicum) grOwn in fuLLy naturaL and biOLOgicaL cOnditiOns in the rOtOgrO rOtating garden.
To learn more about the Rotogro rotating garden, see
The Indoor Gardener Magazine, Vol. 1, Issue 6, page 31,
or visit www.rotogro.com ([email protected]).
GALLERY
3�THE INDOOR GARDENER VOLUME 2 – ISSUE 2
Photos: Am
erican Agriculture &
D.R
.TECHNIQUES
I had never needed these
products until a few years ago.
After adapting a new technique
of cloning, I discovered the
plants were more prone to
wilting. I decided to try two of
the more popular wilt prevention
products available.
For many years, my chosen method for cloning was in
aeroponic cloning systems. This method did not require
the use of a humidity dome, so the plants were always
adapted to the given climate. Aeroponics is a ‘hybrid style’
of hydroponics, one of the best methods, but it can also
be very difficult. There are many systems commercially
available for aero cloning, and most produce similar results.
Aeroponic cloning was the best method I had encountered,
so the choice of switching methods wasn’t easy.
Why did I switch to using a humidity dome for cloning?
Simple answer: because of high temperatures.
When growing in high temperatures, anything that adds
heat can be another potential problem. Hydroponic systems
usually require the use of water reservoirs. Hot water and
horticulture can be a disastrous combination. Hydroponic
systems that use water pumps are subject to increased
reservoir temperatures. The motor on the pump gives off
added heat, raising the reservoir water temperature, more
on some models than others. Pick one up after it has run a
while and feel the heat radiating from it. This issue forced
me to reconsider how I clone.
A friend introduced me to his preferred technique of
cloning, using just a nursery tray with a humidity dome. As
I witnessed multiple trays having a 100% success rate, I was
quick to try his method out. This technique will be discussed
in-depth in another issue…
When cloning under
a humidity dome,
one is creating an
environmental barrier.
These clones are shut
off from the “outside
world”, so they adapt to
this domed climate. Within a humidity dome, expect the
obvious: humidity, no wind or air circulation, and often a
higher temperature. This cloning technique was just as
effective for me: 100% survival! Unfortunately, I noticed a
problem my friend hadn’t experienced. After removing the
well-rooted clones from under the dome, they would begin
wilting within 30 minutes. He didn’t have this problem since
his environment had a naturally higher humidity. The search
began…
The recommended products were Grotek’s ‘No
Wilt’, and Vita Grow’s ‘Anti-Wilt’. I considered
this a good opportunity to do
some testing, so I purchased both.
The testing was performed on
multiple batches of clones,
including a selection of
plant varieties. Side-
by-side, I would
compare the two
products, and here
is what I found. Both
appeared to be the
same, leading me to
The Wilt PreventionExperiment
By Josh Morell
“After removing the
well-rooted clones from under
the dome, they would begin
wilting within 30 minutes”.
Phot
os: G
rote
k®
believe they were manufactured with the same derivatives.
I assumed I would get similar results from each. Neither
manufacturer discloses what its product contains; however,
the Grotek web site was more informative than many other
manufacturers’ sites I’ve visited.
I started the first round of tests with Vita Grow’s Anti-
Wilt, simply because it is manufactured in my home state
of Oregon. Anti-Wilt did not work on the first attempt,
resulting in wilting. I placed the wilted clone back under
the humidity dome for recovery, but it did not survive the
stress. After that, I decided to keep a closer watch on the
clones during the following attempts. During the second
attempt I noticed the wilting and continued to spray the
plant more frequently. I gave up in frustration, and placed
the clone back under the dome; it survived. Before giving up
on the Anti-Wilt completely, I tried a new formula: I doubled
the recommended amount for use. This third attempt with
the strong mixture resulted in the first clone to survive the
transplant, but it required frequent spraying for about one
hour. This still wasn’t the result I had hoped for. At this
point I was discouraged, and skeptical that Grotek’s No Wilt
would be any better. Maybe with the right mixture, Anti-
Wilt would work flawlessly?
Grotek’s No Wilt proved to be a world of difference. From
the beginning it out-performed its competitor, proving to
be almost hassle-free. The plants required spraying twice
and they were fine from then on. Over time I realized I
had made a simple, yet stupid mistake. After reading the
directions again, it occurred to me that I hadn’t been using
the complete recommended dose. Once I corrected this
mistake, the added effectiveness was quickly noticed. After
losing so many clones to wilt prior to this experiment, I
prefer the insurance provided by No Wilt. Just be sure to
read the directions carefully!
How do anti-wilt agents work? Latex and sometimes pine
resin are the derivatives used in wilt-proofing agents.
After misting the plant with this agent, a transparent film
is created as the water/latex dries. This protective film
inhibits the transpiration of moisture (water loss) from the
plant tissue. If you don’t want wilting to occur, eliminate the
water transpiration with Grotek’s No Wilt.
Grotek Manufacturing Inc.(284)-505-8840 BC, Canadawww.grotek.net
American Agriculture, Vita Grow Anti-Wilt(800)-433-6805 www.americanag.com
TECHNIQUES
�0THE INDOOR GARDENER VOLUME 2 – ISSUE 2
TECHNIQUES
The first part of this article was published in
our Volume 2 – Issue 1 (July/August 2006).
E – Nutrients
Those who know me and those who have
discussed this topic with me know that I
prefer to use chemical nutrients for indoor
cultures. When I garden outdoors, however,
I am careful of the environment and I mostly
use biological nutrients. Since organic
nutrients are bulkier and harder to transport
than chemical powders and nutrients, I
choose to use both chemical and biological
nutrients.
The first thing to do to reduce the nutrient
input required for an outdoor garden is to
choose a site that is already fertile. My article
published in The Indoor Gardener vol. 2,
no. 1 (pages 8 to 12) sums up the topic. By
using an already fertile site, you will decrease
the physical efforts required to carry heavy
organic nutrient bags.
Organic nutrients have the ability to be slowly
released, as opposed to chemical nutrients,
which are directly absorbed by the plant. For
this reason, when using non composted (non
decomposed) organic nutrients, it is important
to apply them at the end of the preceding
season, in the fall, for decomposition to
occur during winter. Composted matter must
be added early in the season, in the spring,
and further applications with quick release
organic matter must be performed.
1 – A Few Organic Matters That Can
Be Used
a) Fresh Manure
Usually rich in nitrogen and trace minerals.
Most fresh manure offers a good base for
any type of soil.
• Sheep and rabbit manure: very rich, perhaps
the richest manures. They improve heavy
soils, and their composition improves soil
drainage.
• Cow manure: it contains a lot of water, and
thus improves light soils with a weak water
retention capacity. It usually has, however,
a rather weak content of N (nitrogen) – P
(phosphorus) – and K (potassium).
• Chicken and poultry manure: it decomposes
more rapidly than other types of manure.
In the fall when their usual food sources dry up, hungry deer cause considerable damage to gardens, landscaping and prairies on the edge of woods. The American company Nature Technologies has designed the Deer Tech 880, which emits ultrasounds that keep the voracious mammals at bay. The device uses a patented ultrasound technology to saturate the deer’s predator detection system. The Deer Tech is harmless for pets and birds; it is aesthetic and will not stand out in your landscaping. See www.naturetechnologies.com.
Choosing A Site To Transplant Your Plants Outdoors IIBy Paul Henderson
Have you ever seen those impolite rodents run on electrical wires with your gorgeous sunflowers between their teeth? I have! To keep them away
from the garden, you can spray the plants they are interested in with a product called Ro-Pel. It is harmless for plants and non toxic for pets, but it has a horrible taste for squirrels. You could also spread pepper corns around the plants, or even moth balls, but it does not work every time (neither do scarecrows nor loud mobiles). Moth balls, however, are toxic, for you, your pets and your neighbours, who might not enjoy their strong smell. In any case, you will need to repeat the Ro-Pel application or re-pepper your garden after every rain shower!
Protecting Your outdoor croPs and Flower arrangements
BY B.B., H.J., w.s. & P.H.
What can you do against trespassers, small and not so small animals that set their sight on your flower beds or on your plump vegetables as soon as they are ripe for harvest? Here are a few ways to repel the unwanted critters and to protect your pets that could get intoxicated from your favourite plants (see our Vol. 1, issue 3).
a) against deer
Photo: Bruno Bredoux
B) against squirrels
Pho
to: N
atu
re T
ech
no
log
ies
Pho
to: P
estr
ol &
Gar
den
Evening primrose (Œnothera tetragonal), a very hardy and invasive perennial.
�1VOLUME 2 – ISSUE 2 THE INDOOR GARDENER
TECHNIQUES
Once dried, it acts very quickly. Rich in N
(nitrogen) and P (phosphorus).
• Horse manure: it decomposes slowly and
improves heavy soils. It is rich in N (nitrogen)
and P (phosphorus). Beware however of
viable weed seeds that it can still contain!
b) Composts
Compost should be a part of any bio garden.
Just like fresh manure, compost is one of the
bases of bio gardening. What’s more, making
your own compost with a composting
machine is very simple. Composting machines
are sold everywhere and are not very
expensive. You only need to insert, in layers,
different organic matters. Composting takes
about six months, and then the compost can
be used. It is still preferable to put it in the soil
in the fall, for the decomposition process to
be completed. A good compost will be made
up of many elements so that it can contain all
the nutrients required by plants.
Good composting conditions include: good
humidity, heat, worms and air; bacteria then
do their decomposition work. Composting
instructions are usually included with the
composting machine; I suggest you read
them carefully.
Here are a few elements that should be
found in a composting machine (before they
are put in, it would be best to shred them to
accelerate the decomposition process):
• Grass cuttings and plant matter;
• Wood shavings and chips;
• Wood ashes;
• Leftovers from fruits and vegetables
(without skin or peal to avoid chemical
products);
• Shredded newspaper;
• Animal manure;
• Animal litter;
• Egg shells;
• Conifer needles;
• Healthy faded flowers and leaves;
• Most food leftovers.
I use organic nutrients that are as concentrated
as possible, such as guanos and fresh rabbit
manure. I also choose the matters that will be
released as quickly as possible, such as dried
chicken manure and wood ashes. I make a
mixture with compost and fresh manure – a
mixture that will drain well but will retain a
good humidity rate. I then incorporate this
mixture into the soil of my future garden.
Blood meal and algae meal compost are also
excellent biological nutrients that I use to
balance out the mixture.
My chemical nutrient use is limited to a
growth start boost, a flowering boost and an
end of flowering boost. At the beginning of
the growth cycle, when I transplant outdoors,
I use 10-52-10 to strengthen the roots. A
month later, I use a two-part hydroponic
liquid nutrient for growth, at a concentration
As is the case for squirrels, there is a product specially designed to keep hares and bunnies out of the garden: Wilson’s Rabbit Repell, which is applied with a brush to the plants’ stems to keep away hares, but also deer and mice. The product repels them and keeps them from chewing on your plants. You can also try the products designed for environmental protection made by Dr. T’s Nature Products / The Repellent Co. at www.repell.com.
Nixalite® Premium Bird Control strips are an all stainless steel bird spike barrier that repels pest birds on nearly any surface. It works for all birds including pigeons, seagulls, sparrows, starlings, swallows, etc. (source: www.nixalite.com). See also the products sold by Bird-B-Gone, Inc. at www.birdbgone.com.
Phot
o: B
runo
Bre
doux
c) against Hares
d) against Pigeons, seagulls, sParrows, starlings, swallows…
Pho
to: W
ilson
Pho
to: N
ixalite®
These Calendula maroccana on the left are ready to be transplanted outdoors, the ones on the right are very weak (the pot did not drain well after germination, giving week plants).
�2THE INDOOR GARDENER VOLUME 2 – ISSUE 2
TECHNIQUES
of 1,200 ppm. The only other chemical I use
is a flowering boost, three weeks before
harvest, such as Blue Magic’s Monster
Bloomer. The effects of that application are
quickly visible!
F – Protecting your garden
It is not rare for plants grown outside to be
the victim of predators. Prevention remains
the best means of minimizing the damage
from a future invasion. When growing
outside, think of the environment and of the
ecosystem: it is best to use biological means
and products to protect against predators.
Here is a very brief summary of some of the
biological techniques I use outdoors.
1 – Insects
Attacks from insects are quite natural, so we
should not panic when we see insects or their
traces on plants. Young plants, however, are
much more vulnerable because they do not
have many leaves to protect themselves
– they must be watched closely.
Insecticide soaps like End All, which are not
chemicals, offer a relatively good protection
against most insects, and most particularly
against white flies and thrips (thysanoptera
– they look like one to three millimetre long
whitish beige sticks).
Sticky traps are very efficient against gnats
(small black flies). Spider mite (small red of
whitish beige spiders with two black dots on
their backs, like eyes) infestations are rare
outside, because spider mites do not like
rain, but if the summer is hot and dry, they
can be a danger. A product such as Vendez
can then be sprayed on the leaves with lots
of water. Insecticide soaps like Safer’s are
also good biological prevention tools against
spider mites.
Slugs eat and love to eat leaves. You’ll know
where they’ve been when you see a trace
of viscous slime they leave behind around
the site and on the plants. This can easily be
prevented by placing coarsely shredded egg
shells around the base of the plants – this will
act as an anti-slug barrier.
2 – Wild animals
Wild animal attacks on our garden are
usually very damaging and can cause the
loss of most of the crop. Deer are the most
threatening, followed by beavers.
There are a few good products, such as Skoot,
Nothing works better than ant traps, such as the Maxforce FC Ant Bait Stations – sold in packs of 24. Maxforce FC Ant Control Bait Stations are certified child resistant stations, and they are approved for use anywhere. Maxforce FC Ant Control Bait is effective against a broad spectrum of ants. Small, clear, plastic bait stations allow for quick inspection. This lets you know when the bait is gone and it is time to replace them. (Source: www.diypesticides.com).
These small haemophiliac animals are too often the victim of cruel traps that make them die of exsanguination. There are environment-friendly ways of protecting your crops against moles. For example, you can plant castor oil plants (ricin) and wet the soil around the molehills with castor oil – moles will not cross such a barrier. You will reach the same results by diluting castor oil in water. Towards the end of the fall season, spray the perimeter of your lawn with castor oil. A five-centimetre strip should suffice. Against moles and a few other rodents, you can also use a highly concentrated elder manure, to be sprayed directly in the molehills and tunnels. It is also said that hardy gloxinia (Incarvillea delavayi) repels moles. It is also a beautiful perennial that will complete your garden.
e) against ants
Photo: Stock Exchange Image
F) against molesHorse manure: beware of weed seeds that could remain.
Pho
to: D
.R.
Pho
to: F
irm
a K
reu
k
��THE INDOOR GARDENER VOLUME 2 – ISSUE 2
TECHNIQUES
7854 N. SR 37 Bloomington, IN 47404
2247 N. Plaza Drive Visalia, CA 93291
Give your customersGardener’s Digest -available now.96 pages of great products and info.Ask for it by name.
Check out the newestSunleaves Product Guide.• All Sunleaves product info and images
in brilliant, eye-catching color printedon a heavyweight glossy stock
• Handy Lighting Comparison Chart• Guano Feeding Schedule
A self-contained light system, the Pulsar Two-Way Mini accommodates both MH and HPSlamps; available in 250- and 400-watt sizes.
LITTLE
biglight
We love indoor lighting!Check out the newest developments in horticultural lighting in addition to our
other innovative year ‘round gardeningproducts at your nearest Sunleaves dealer.
We love indoor lighting!Check out the newest developments in horticultural lighting in addition to our
other innovative year ‘round gardeningproducts at your nearest Sunleaves dealer.
Browse the complete line of Sunleaves products at:
T5 Fluorescent Fixtures
In four-, six-, and eight-tube configurations, thesew i d e - d i s p e r s i o n fixtures haveVitaLUME T5 tubes INCLUDED! Availablewith Grow or Bloom tubes.
of Sunleaves Garden Products.BWGS is a Proud Distributor
BWGS 800-316-1306 BWGS WEST 888-316-1306fax 800-316-1264 fax 888-316-1264
IndGrdnr_SL_lights_BWGS.qxd 7/19/06 9:54 AM Page 1
that give plants a very bitter taste that animals
do not enjoy! For this reason, however, you
must only spray these products on growing
plants – never on flowering plants, because
the product will give the plant or vegetable
a horrible taste.
My preferred method to prevent deer from
eating my plants is to make a fence around
the garden with 20 lb fishing wire. Use trees
as spikes and make three rows of fishing
wire, starting at 30 centimetres from the
ground and placing each one 30 centimetres
above the last one. This will create an almost
invisible fence that works and yet is discreet!
3 – Intruders
I’m thinking of thieves and hikers. Do not
put bear traps or other violent traps against
intruders. You would risk injuring an innocent
hiker who, in any case, was not likely to touch
your crop. You must beware, however: even
in the city, some people do not hesitate to
leave with your geranium pot or to uproot
a decorative shrub that is still young, easily
transportable and transplantable!
Perhaps the neighbourhood’s cats and dogs meet up in your garden. Be careful: in that case, you will need to protect your plants without harming your neighbour’s pets or your own! You will need to protect the plants they like, but also protect them against plants that can poison them. To prevent local cats from taking your vegetable plot for an open-air litter box, spread used coffee grounds and citrus peels. You could also wet cloths with white vinegar and place those at the base of plants: vinegar repels cats, dogs, racoons and rabbits. There are also many mechanical or chemical solutions, from lemon spray to invisible fences linked to a sensor system and to a collar your dog must wear. You will find those at pet shops or garden centres. There are even automatic sprinklers that are movement-activated. If you are looking for an all-natural solution, there is a specific variety of coleus (Coleus canina Sumcol 01) that is reputed to repel cats, dogs and rabbits. You might want to have a few specimens throughout the garden. For more information, see www.scardy-cat.com.
You can make your own entirely natural repulsive oil against flies. At the pharmacy, get two ounces of citronella. You will also need four ounces of olive oil and three little squares of camphor. Melt the camphor in the olive oil, and once it is completely melted, add the citronella. Spray on fly-attracting plants. Source: La Nature à votre Service, AFEAS Mauricie.
Watering of beans during early flowering.
Calendula marocanna in bloom.
The diseased Rex begonia pictured in the previous issue is now (two months later) in full health since
it has been transferred outdoors.
g) against Flies
H) against cats and dogs and (also) to Protect tHem against tHemselves
Photos: Bruno BredouxPh
oto
: D.R
.Ph
oto
: B.B
.
Duchesse under the magnolia tree.
Flowering white beans.
7854 N. SR 37 Bloomington, IN 47404
2247 N. Plaza Drive Visalia, CA 93291
Give your customersGardener’s Digest -available now.96 pages of great products and info.Ask for it by name.
Check out the newestSunleaves Product Guide.• All Sunleaves product info and images
in brilliant, eye-catching color printedon a heavyweight glossy stock
• Handy Lighting Comparison Chart• Guano Feeding Schedule
A self-contained light system, the Pulsar Two-Way Mini accommodates both MH and HPSlamps; available in 250- and 400-watt sizes.
LITTLE
biglight
We love indoor lighting!Check out the newest developments in horticultural lighting in addition to our
other innovative year ‘round gardeningproducts at your nearest Sunleaves dealer.
We love indoor lighting!Check out the newest developments in horticultural lighting in addition to our
other innovative year ‘round gardeningproducts at your nearest Sunleaves dealer.
Browse the complete line of Sunleaves products at:
T5 Fluorescent Fixtures
In four-, six-, and eight-tube configurations, thesew i d e - d i s p e r s i o n fixtures haveVitaLUME T5 tubes INCLUDED! Availablewith Grow or Bloom tubes.
of Sunleaves Garden Products.BWGS is a Proud Distributor
BWGS 800-316-1306 BWGS WEST 888-316-1306fax 800-316-1264 fax 888-316-1264
IndGrdnr_SL_lights_BWGS.qxd 7/19/06 9:54 AM Page 1
��THE INDOOR GARDENER VOLUME 2 – ISSUE 2
Photo: Jessy CaronBOTANICAL DICTIONARY
A Touch of HistoryThe terrestrial orchid, the only one known during Antiquity, draws its name from the observation made by one of Aristotle’s
disciples, Theophrastus (372 – 287 B.C.) of its subterranean tubers. He called it “orkhis”, from the Greek for testicles, as
an allusion to the resemblance between those and the two rhizomatous bulbs shared by most orchids then known in the
Mediterranean area. Orchids were then grown for their medicinal properties and not for their beauty or perfume. Two
thousand years ago, under the lead of Greek wise man Discorides (41 – 68), the “Doctrine of signature” was applied – this
doctrine said that every part of a plant that resembled a human organ could be beneficial to the organ and enter into the
care given to the patient. People then believed that orchids were perfect to cure infertility. Antiquity doctors also attributed
a high aphrodisiac property to orchids. It was only during Renaissance that orchids were cultivated for their horticultural
value.
In 1818, Lord Cattley discovered the first epiphytic orchid, growing on the branches of trees to which it clings. This led to
orchid hunts, and to orchids becoming a sought-after treasure. Many explorers died in their expeditions, in an attempt to
discover new varieties. After harvesting a newly-discovered variety, the hunters often burned the site to have an exclusive
right on the flower, but this led to the extinction of some indigenous species. In 1885 a conference was held and the Royal
INDOOR PLANT CLASSIFICATION
5 – THE MAIN ORCHID FAMILIES By Jessy Caron
Phot
os: J
essy
Car
onBOTANICAL DICTIONARY
Horticultural Society (RHS) was created; it started to see to
the protection of endangered species. Such societies offer
books, conferences, classes, contests, meetings and exhibits
to increase our knowledge of orchids. It is mainly because of
such societies that orchid cultivation is now available to all.
The Most Common GenusPhragmipedium: This genus includes fifteen to twenty
epiphytic and terrestrial orchids, mainly from Central America
and Mexico. Like Paphiopedilum, their close relative, they
have a slipper-shaped labellum, but they differ with their
long, more numerous and narrower
leaves, 20 to 30 centimetres long.
The flowers are solitary or in small
clusters on floral scapes, generally
show narrow arched petals, a
hood-shaped sepal and a show-
shaped labellum. The colours vary
but usually include a base of white
or greenish yellow, nuanced with purple. Minimum winter
temperature: 10 to 15 degrees for cool climate species and
18 degrees for tropical species. WD, GIL, MD, MS, zones 9-
11 (they live outdoors in USDA zone 6).
Paphiopedilum (relative of the Lady slipper): This
genus is found from India to south-eastern Asia, in the south
of China, in the Philippines and in New Guinea. It includes
approximately 60 species. Often
compact, the plants have fleshy roots, a
few large leaves (often marbled), a short
stem and one to a few flowers with a
characteristic slipper-shaped labellum.
GIL, HS, WD, MD, MC, zones 8-11 (they
live outdoors in USDA zones 3-6).
Cattleya: This genus includes 40 to
60 species of epiphytes from Central and South America.
The flowers have led to countless hybrids with miniature
to gigantic flowers ranging from 5 to 15 centimetres in
diameter. Beside blue, practically all colours are present.
The typical flowers shows three rather narrow sepals in
front of which are placed two larger superior petals, often
with a wavy side, and a flashier central lip or labellum, with
wavy margins. The labellum is marked in various ways and
its sides flap back onto one another in the back to form a
tube. The plants have crawling rhizomes and narrow erect
pseudobulbs. In a group of species, the bifoliate cattleya,
two large leaves emerge from the top of each pseudobulb.
The other group, the unifoliolate, only bears
one leaf, usually narrower and more erect.
The floral spikes can bear only one or two
leaves or up to ten and they emerge from
the summit of the pseudobulbs. Hybrids
and bifoliate require a lower temperature
��THE INDOOR GARDENER VOLUME 2 – ISSUE 2
Photos: Jessy CaronBOTANICAL DICTIONARY
than unifoliolate species. They like a rest in winter. MD, GIL,
zones 10-12.
Dendrobium (Dendrobe): This type of orchid is one of
the most prolific, with 1,200 species spread out from India
to Japan, including Australia, New Zealand and Fiji. These
species prosper on humid tropical plains
and up to 3,000 metres in altitude, as
well as in Australia’s semi-desert-like
climate. They are mostly epiphytic but
also grow on boulders or in swamps,
which makes any generalization about
their mode of cultivation difficult.
Species that form bushes develop fleshy
pseudobulbs, while others grow thin
pseudobulbs, and the flowers often
spread out on secondary branchlets
once the leaves fall. We can distinguish
between the erect types and the more
supple ones, and there are warm,
temperate and cool climate species. Warm climate species
should not be put in conditions where the temperature is
below 15 degrees, but temperate species can handle as
low as 2 degrees. The ideal substrate is a mixture of bark,
wood charcoal and sphagnum. A dry period of rest in winter
improves flowering. MC, WD, zones 10-12.
Epidendrum: With some thousand known species, this
orchid genus is one of the largest, although many varieties
have been taken out of it, such as Encyclia. The species are
variable – some form stems that resemble bulrushes, and
others form vigourous pseudobulbs. They
grow from Florida to Argentina, at many
altitudes and in habitats that range from
the rain forest to an arid rocky hill. MD, MP,
GIL, WD, WC, zones 9-11.
Cypriledium (Lady slipper): This genus
includes 35 species of deciduous terrestrial
orchids. They grow in the temperate areas
of Eurasia and North America as well as
in southern Asia and Mexican mountains.
Its two names, common and scientific,
come from the way the bulbous labellum is carved to
form a little pouch resembling a slipper. The wide thin
corrugated leaves emerge from the rhizomes in the spring
and the flowers bloom in summer on erect stems, either
alone or many to a stem. Many tropical orchids that used
to be classified as Cypripedium, are now spread across the
genus Paphiopedilum, Phragmipedium and Selenipedium.
Their difficult cultivation is important to take into account.
CC, S, RS, WD, MD, zones 5-9 (they live outdoors in
USDA zone 3).
Phalaenopsis: The pastel flowers, large leaves and
complex petals of the fifty species that compose this genus
recall a butterfly and contribute to these orchids’ grace. They
are found in tropical Asia, in New Guinea and in Australia.
They do not form pseudobulbs:
their uniform green or spotted
green leaves emerge straight
from the stalk and the arched
floral scapes go well above
them. These scapes can grow
higher than 60 centimetres and
bear 20 beautiful flowers, 10
centimetres in diameter, most
often a glossy white and sometimes pale pink, almost year-
round. HC, WC, GIL, WD, RS, MD, zones 9-11.
LegendsLIGHT
HS: Half-shade
S: Shade
GIL: Good indirect light
CLIMATE
WC: Warm climate
CC: Cool climate
HC: Humid climate
SOIL
WD: Well drained
RS: Rich or fertile soil
PROPAGATION
MC: Multiplication by cuttings
MP: Multiplication by pips
MS: Multiplication by seedlings
MD: Multiplication by division
How is an orchid named?An orchid’s name always contains at least two parts:
* the first indicates the genus, e.g. Cymbidium,
* the second indicates the species, e.g. lowianum.
If, within a species, there are notable differences on the
flower, its colours or its size:
* the third element indicates the variety, e.g. var. concolor.
The complete name of the orchid in the example above is:
* Cymbidium lowianum var. concolor.
Does the name have any particular meaning?
The name can be given in function of:
- a particularity;
- its discoverer;
- its origin, etc.
Source: Société française d’orchidophilie
After ArmAgeddon… only the strongest will survive
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50THE INDOOR GARDENER VOLUME 2 – ISSUE 2
Photos: D.R
.PLANT PHYSIOLOGY
Glucids are substances that in everyday life we call sugars
(because of their taste, although there are exceptions!). In
fact, we make a distinction between:
• monoses, or simple sugars or monosaccharides that cannot
be separated through hydrolysis;
• osides, glucids that are formed through the
association of many monose molecules. Through
hydrolysis, they give out monoses (but don’t be in a
hurry – the reaction is often slow!)
Osides + water -----> monoses!
What about the sugar you put in your coffee? We will see
that it is, in fact, made up of two monoses – and therefore
is an oside.
In this brief biochemistry lesson, we will only examine the
most important aspects of these molecules, and we will
look at their biological roles.
1 – Let’s Discuss Monoses The best known monose is glucose: you’ll find it in all
candies, in your blood, in fruit (in fructose form) and it even
is, for many of your cells, the only acceptable nourishment.
A – How A Monose Is MadeFormulas used to represent monose moleculesWhich atoms form a monose? Only C, O and H!
In what proportions? We always find the same number of
C and O, and twice as many H. This means monoses follow
the general formula (Cn H2
n O
n)x times.
Monose are also called carbohydrates (water + carbon). It is
true that monoses are carbohydrates, but not all carbs are
simple sugars: the lactic acid produced by your tired muscles
(following the formula C(H2O)
3) is a carbohydrate but not a
monose.
The value of n in the formula (Cn H2
n O
n) varies. For
example:
• Glucose: n=6, C6H
12O
6.
• Ribose: n= 5, C5H
10O
5.
• Fructose (sugar produced by fruit): n=6, same basic
formula as glucose!
These two molecules thus share the same molecular mass,
since they contain the same quantity of the same atoms.
The simple formulas are not precise enough, but they do
allow us to distinguish the different simple sugars:
• those with six carbon atoms are hexoses (hexo = 6 + oses):
glucose, fructose, galactose…;
• those with five atoms of carbon are pentoses
(pento = 5 + oses);
• those with four atoms of carbon are tetroses
(tetra = 4 + oses);
• those with three atoms of carbon are trioses
(tri = 3 + oses).
B – Where We Use More Precise Formulas (called structural formulas)A simple sugar is always made up of an unbranched carbon
skeleton that bears atoms containing O (oxygenated
functions) or not.
The nature and the position of functions only appear on
semi-structural formulas, which represent the relations
between atoms more precisely.
N. B.: Atoms attach to one
another by exchanging electrons.
Atoms can only exchange a
certain number of electrons, never
more. Carbon (C), for example, can only e x c h a n g e
four electrons, not more. Oxygen, O, can only exchange two
and hydrogen, H, can only exchange one electron (because
it only has one!).
2 – Let’s Start By Looking At GlucoseFirst, the name of functions. Groups containing O and H
grafted onto carbon can bear different names (chemistry
is a well organized science!). Let us recall three that can be
useful:
• The alcohol function: OH. It is found in all… alcohols, of
course!
• T he ketone function: C=O (C double bond O, not C equals
O! This means that C and O exchange
two electrons instead of one)
• The aldehyde function: CHOH
Glucids: An Explanation
By Roger Raynal
Phot
os: D
.R. &
T.J
.
One monose thus contains many alcohol
functions and either a ketone function or an
aldehyde function.
What you see below (bottom right page 50) are three ways
of representing glucose. At the top, the structural formula
gives us a map of the molecule. Every atom is separated by
its bonds, but the formula is unwieldy.
In the middle, the “semi-structural” formula: groups branch
out of the carbon axis but are not detailed.
Underneath, the formula is more condensed: all similar
groups have been combined.
We can thus classify monoses with the help of two criteria:
number of C atoms in the molecule and presence of an
aldehyde or a ketone function.
Number of carbon atoms:
• Monose with aldehyde function: aldose six
• Monose with ketone function: ketose six
• Galactose five
• Fructose five
• Ribose four
• Ribulose four
• Erythrose three
• Erythrulose three
• Glyceraldehyde three
• Dihydroxyacetone three
3 – StereoisomersGlucose and galactose share the same formula, even when
using the “semi-structural” formula: they have the same
functions in the same positions, leading you to believe
that they are the same molecule. Look at your hands (I will
assume you have two): you will find the same fingers in the
same positions (well, I hope so for your sake!). And yet, a
left hand is not the same as a right hand: your fingers do
not have the same spatial orientation (which is obvious at
the thumb). It is much the same for glucose and galactose:
a carbon atom (called alpha carbon) is the palm of the
hand, and four “fingers” make up the bonds with the rest
of the molecule. Their only difference is in the asymmetrical
orientation of the functional groups making up the
stereoisomers (an important point, since they have many
peculiarities among living beings!). These stereoisomers are
represented using Fischer projections: vertical
carbon chain + aldehyde function above
+ H and OH couples towards the front.
On the alpha carbon, OH to the right:
D series; OH to the left: L series.
PLANT PHYSIOLOGY
Photo: D.R
. — Illustration by A
nna Kanaras after a photo of The Thinker by Rodin (D
.R.)
DISCOVERY
In the third issue of The Indoor Gardener, I had touched upon the
difference between the terms “bio”, “biological”, “ecologic” and
“organic” (Notes & News, page 14). I am now asked about the
difference between “natural” and “organic”. Why? Perhaps because in
our times and reading this magazine, our readers wonder and oppose
soil cultivation methods to hydroponic cultivation, while hanging on to
the illusion that hydroponic is somehow more natural, or even more
assuredly organic.
To explain this, I must go back to the philosophy (yes, now is the time to
use those philosophy classes and to recall the shock you felt when you
heard about the “animal-machine” theory!) of René Descartes (1596-
1650) and reprint the text below. This excerpt asks the question of what
is, according to him, natural, which here meets the association between
a “natural” soil-based mode of production and a mode of production
in a mechanical machine – made by a craftsman or an industrialist –
that is still in and of itself, “natural”, and as such leads to a “natural”
production, which will also be “organic” if the only products used
are made from biological organic matter, which is to say
with no chemical additive (but as we will see this too is
overly theoretical), to ensure a final “organic” crop. Do
you follow?
Here is the excerpt from René Descartes, which, according
to me, sheds light on the preceding paragraph: “I know of
no difference between the machines made by craftsmen
and the various bodies that nature assembles, except that
the machines’ effects depend only on the arrangement of
certain pipes, or springs or other instruments that, having to be
proportionate to the hands of their makers, are always so large that
“The Universe, in making man, gave itself both a victim and a judge.”Jean Rostand, biologist, 1894-1977
Gardening PhilosophyWhat Is “Natural”? What Is “Organic”?By Bruno Bredoux
53VOLUME 2 – ISSUE 2 THE INDOOR GARDENER
Phot
o: B
runo
Bre
doux
— Il
lust
rati
on U
SDA
DISCOVERY
their figures and movements are visible, while the pipes or
springs that cause the effects of natural bodies are usually
too small to be perceived by our senses. And it is certain that
all mechanical rules belong to physics, which means that all
things artificial are also natural. When, for example, a watch
shows the hour by means of the mechanism of which it is
made, it is no less natural than it is for a tree to bear fruit.”
If we follow Descartes’ reasoning, it is thus no less “natural”
for a hydroponic system to produce plants than it is for soil
to support a plant or for a tree to produce fruit. Nature has
the capacity to generate its own plants, biological beings,
mineral or chemical substances. All of this is thus natural.
These “natural” productions have the ability to generate
themselves. This is corroborated by the Latin etymology
of the word “nature”, which comes from nascere, “to be
born”. That which grows in a hydroponic system, however,
is produced with the means of a human invention (for
example, the rotating hydroponic wheel). Nevertheless,
according to Descartes, the end result – the crop – remains
natural. If in his text he denies the difference between
mechanical production and organic growth, we can take
for granted that organic growth in a mechanical production
unit remains natural. On his blog, Le Labyrinthe (The Maze),
contemporary philosopher Jérôme Coudurier-Abaléa goes
as far as saying that for Descartes, natural, in the end, means
“normal”. We can thus say that anything produced in the
world is natural, that human and artificial are both natural.
The only specificity to each is the field of study of its different
production results. Inanimate objects will be subjected to
the physical sciences, while the living belongs to biology
and medicine. Now we only need to figure out what is also
organic!
The definition of what we can call organic in agriculture
is much more recent than Descartes’ definition of what is
natural. It is only in the early 1970’s that the concept of
“organically grown” foodstuffs was invented. It was the
editor of Organic Gardening and Farming magazine
who started the ball during a public hearing held
on December 1st, 1972 in New York: “Food grown
without pesticides; grown without artificial
fertilizers; grown in soil whose humus content
is increased by the additions of organic
matter, grown in soil whose mineral
content is increased by the application
of natural mineral fertilizers; has not
been treated with preservatives,
hormones, antibiotics, etc.”
This definition, however, did
not survive long, because of the overwhelming diversity of
the methods called “organic” that existed in the 1970’s. In
1980, the U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) revised
and narrowed this definition in a report that went so far as
to say there could never be a unique, universally accepted
definition of “organic farming”.
The USDA report thus stipulated: “The organic movement
represents a spectrum of practices, attitudes, and
philosophies. On the one hand are those organic practitioners
who would not use chemical fertilizers or pesticides under
any circumstances. These producers hold rigidly to their
purist philosophy. At the other end of the spectrum, organic
farmers espouse a more flexible approach. While striving to
avoid the use of chemical fertilizers and pesticides, these
practitioners do not rule them out entirely. Instead, when
absolutely necessary, some fertilizers and also herbicides are
very selectively and sparingly used as a second line of defence.
Nevertheless, these farmers, too, consider themselves to be
organic farmers.” (Source: USDA Study Team on Organic
Farming. Report and Recommendations on Organic
Farming. USDA, July 1980). After the 1970’s purism
and intransigence, reality was back and offered a
much more realistic definition of what actually
happens in so-called organic production units.
Although in December 1997 the USDA
proposed and drafted a series of specific
regulations to regulate the production
and handling of “organic” products
(National Organic Program;
Proposed Rule. Federal Register
62:65850/65967, 1997) in
the United States, there are
5�THE INDOOR GARDENER VOLUME 2 – ISSUE 2
Photos: Bruno Bredoux & D
.R.
DISCOVERY
at the moment 11 state agencies and 33 private agencies
that hold the power to certify the production of some
4,000 farmers and 600 handling facilities
(resellers, distributors, transformers) that
qualify as “organic”. Each of these agencies
thus evaluates its own authorized or
forbidden substances, its own standards
and its own qualifying and disqualifying
agents. Allowed substances have to
meet no national prior agreement and
no U.S. agri-business industry standard.
The USDA’s seal is only one among many.
Following the USDA’s program, after
having done everything to bring a crop
to term while following specifications
(recycling of organic waste in compost,
integrated pest control using their natural
predator or beneficial micro-organisms, plant manipulation
performed without synthetic additives, etc.), if the result
is failure, the USDA then allows the use of some chosen
chemicals. The list of those is very
specific and does not include any
cytotoxic chemicals that are carbon-
based. This means that the USDA’s
“organic” seal is applied even to
products treated with the chemical
products on its list.
The debate regarding organic
products is far from over. Other
associations are now entering the debate – consumers,
environmental activists, political activists, etc. – and are
looking at other aspects: are organic products more
nutritious, safer, tastier, do they prevent certain types of
cancer? Dissatisfaction is rising with regards to the standards
currently applied and to the new proposed regulations.
Each group has its own focus and attempts to have a say
or to have its point of view considered. The OTA (Organic
Trade Association), for example, declared: “The definition
of organic as written in the proposed, national organic
standards lacks the holistic approach central to organic
practices. The proposed rules take a reductionist approach
to organic food production that eliminates key concepts such
as the health of the agro-ecosystem and biodiversity on the
farm.” Shall we call those products “organic-holistic”? The
USDA is also pressured from the other side – consumers are
not the only ones involved, nor indeed concerned. If the
4,000 certified “organic” farmers in the United States have
one power, it is the power to draft their own law. If the
USDA’s rules are too precise and if control is too restrictive,
the farmers threaten to get their organic raw material
supply from foreign countries, where regulations are more
lenient. This threatens the USA’s agricultural
protectionism.
The problem encompasses more than
production and manipulation. Can an organic
product that leaves its production site (the
organic farm) still be considered organic once
on a consumer’s plate? What distribution
network does it go through? Are all rules
(which ones?) respected at all steps? Are
there other steps (transformation, polishing,
embellishing) that we are not aware of?
To conclude, we will get back to the beginning
and to science and philosophy. According to
biologist Jean Rostand (1894-1977): “The
biological ignores the cultural. Of all that the human being
has learnt, experienced, felt over the centuries, nothing was
deposited in his organism. […]. Each generation must learn
anew […]” (A Biologist’s Thoughts). We must combine
the innate to our cultural inheritance and to our future
perspectives. Man’s great goal is survival in a disintegrating
world. Can organic products save us? Will we be able to
keep them sufficiently pure, natural and organic for the
greater good? The debate is constantly changing. Nature
or nurture? Natural or organic? Philosophers have been
wondering, from the 18th century to now, from Jean-Jacques
Rousseau to Claude Levi-Strauss... Does culture complete
nature or does it replace it?
In our societies, organic is slowly replacing what is natural,
what is born of the soil. Do we want products that are so
well/properly transformed that they can no longer be called
natural, but only organic? And then, we may be satisfied
and allowed to rest...
With references to Jérôme Coudurier-Abaléa’s blog, Le Labyrinthe, at http://lelabyrinthe.over-blog.net (article:Descartes: Le corps est une machine déterminée) and a text by Stephen Barrett, M.D. (Aliments “Organic” Foods: Certification Does Not Protect Consumers) published on Quackwatch: Your Guide to Quackery, Health Fraud, and Intelligent Decisions (www.quackwatch.org), and available at www.quackwatch.org/01QuackeryRelatedTopics/organic.html.
THE HYDROPONIC WORLD OF NORTH AMERICA10051 North 2nd St.
Laurel, Maryland 20723
301-490-9236866-MD-HYDRO
WWW.mdhydro.com
8484 Florin Road # 110 Sacramento, CA. 95828
Ph. (916) 381-2464Fax: (916) 381-2468
Opening soon1918 16th street
Sacramento, Ca 95814
PLANT’ IT EARTH2279 Market StreetSan Francisco, CA 94114(415) 626-5082www.plantitearth.com
PLANT’ IT EARTH1 Dorman AveSan Francisco, CA 94124(415) 970-2465www.plantitearth.com
B E R K E L E Y INDOOR GARDEN
844 University AveBerkeley, CA 94710
(510) 549-1234Fax: (510) 549-2582
GREENMILE HYDROPONIC GARDEN SUPPLY
1035 South Mt Vernon Ave, Suite GColton, CA 92324Tel: (909) 824-9376
Boulder / Denver
Year-round Garden Supply
(formerly Growers Choice Hydroponics)
1100 Carver Road, #20Modesto, CA 95350
Tel.: (209) 522-2727Toll free: 1-866-788-0765
5561 South Orange Blossom Trail
Orlando FL. 32802 Toll Free(888) 833-4769
ROCKY MOUNTAIN LIGHTING AND HYDROPONICS
302 Main SterlingDenver, CO 80751
Tel: (970) 522-2250Toll free: (800) 886-5020
www.rockymountainlightin-gandhydroponics.com
THE GROWCERY STORE
1501 Lee Hill Road, #17Boulder, CO 80304(303) 449-0771
www.thegrowcerystore.com
132 Kennedy AvenueCampbell, CA. 95008
http://www.precisionhydroponics.com
Tel: (408) 866-8176Fax: (408) 866-8187
We specialize in CUSTOM DESIGN
116 West Orangeburg AvenueModesto, CA 95350
www.cocas-hydroponics.com
Monday to Friday: 10AM-6PM
Saturday & Sunday: 10AM-5PM
United States
10051 North 2nd St.Laurel, Maryland
20723301-490-9236
866-MD-HYDROWWW.mdhydro.com
THE HYDROPONIC WORLD OF NORTH AMERICA
www.AnthonysGarden.com
"Our Business Is Growing"Your Indoor Outdoor
Gardening Specialists
93779 Troy Lane - Coos Bay, OR 97420(541) 266-8822 Fax: (541) 266-9754
3839 6th AveTacoma, WA
(253) 761-7478www.indoorgarden.com
714 South CentralKent, WA
(253) 373-9060www.indoorgarden.com
23303 Highway 99, Suite AEdmonds, WA
(425) 673-2755www.indoorgarden.com
394 Route 15/P.O. Box 235Underhill, Vt 05489
Tel.: Toll free 1 (800) 564-9376www.hooked-on-ponics.com
Green Thumb Gardening
Grow Monster Plants
THE GROW ROOM8 Bridge StreetNyack, NY 10960Toll Free:
(800) 449-9630Fax: (845) 348-8811www.thegrowroom.com
38 Front StBallston Spa, NY 12020
Toll free (800) 850-GROW(518) 885-2005
Fax (518) 885-2754www.saratogaorganics.com
1555 Hurffville RdSewell, NJ 08080
Tel.: (856) 227-6300Toll free: 1-888-927-6300
Fax: (856) 227-2930www.tastyharvest.com
AHL Garden Supply1051 San Mateo Blvd SE
Albuquerque, New Mexico 87108phone 800-753-4617 / fax 505-
255-7417Read what other customers are
saying about their experience with AHL and ahlgrows.com
at http://ahlgrows.com/kudos.htmle-mail: [email protected]
For sales and advertising, contact:
Subscribe & WIN!!!
23529 Little Mack Ave.St.Clair Shores,MI 48080 USA
Toll Free; 1-866-493-7627www.tcs-hydroponics.com
1866-HYDRO-CS (1866-493-7627)
10051 North 2nd St.Laurel, Maryland
20723301-490-9236
866-MD-HYDROWWW.mdhydro.com
THE HYDROPONIC WORLD OF NORTH AMERICA
Canada 107 Falcon Drive (Hwy. 97 S) Williams Lake, BC V2G 5G7
Phone: (250) 398-2899 Fax: (250) 398-2896
Toll Free: 1-877-588-5855www.hallsorganics.com
AQUA GRO HYDROPONIC SUPPLIES101-2689 Kyle RdKelowna, BC V1Z 2M9(250) 769-7745Fax: (250) 769-7748
GREEN WONDER GARDENING INC.22 Waddell Ave.Dartmouth, NS B3B 1K3Toll Free: (877) 845-6866(902) 466-1255www.greenwonder.com
2192 Route 102 Lincoln, New Brunswick, E3B 8N1
Phone: (506) 458-9208 Facsimile: (506) 459-1377 Email: [email protected]
"TIME IS MONEY, START GROWING TODAY
6 MONTHS NO INTEREST NO PAYMENTS!" "EXCLUSIVELY AT 21ST CENTURY GARDENING!"
Tracadie3717 Rue Principale506-395-6055
Edmundston 11 Crabtree 506-737-9982.
Dieppe 663 Malenfant Blvd. 506-388-9982
P.E.I.18790 Highway 1Desable, P.E.I.902-658-3182
St-John20 Bayside Drive506-657-9982
DEN HAAN'S GARDEN WORLD
exit 18 off 101Annapolis Valley, NS(902) 825-4722www.denhaansgardenworld.comwww.denhaansgreenhouses.com
4-2133 Royal Windsor driveMississauga, Ontario
L5J 1K5(905) 403-GROW (4769)
1-877-263-6287www.secondnaturehydroponics.com
GIVE YOUR PLANTS WHAT THEY NEED
Peterborough Hydroponic Center347 Pido Road Unit 32 Peterborough OntarioPhone/Fax 745-6868Toll Free 1-866-745-6868Manufacturer of PHC Garden Productswww.hydroponics.com
For any information, comment or request, contact [email protected].
For sales and advertising, contact [email protected].
If you want to send us pictures and articles, please contact us at:
[email protected] with “submission” in the subject line and
we will get in touch with you.
COME AND GROW WITH US!
3132, Isleville St.Halifax, N.S.
902-454-6646B3K 3Y5
4 Ontario locations: Ottawa, Gloucester,
Mississauga, North York
1-800-489-2215www.hydroponix.com
Hydroponics, fertilizers, lightingHome of Optimum Hydroponix®
bma404 Maitland Drive #2Belleville, ON K8N 4Z5(613) 967-9888www.bmacanada.com
5�THE INDOOR GARDENER VOLUME 2 – ISSUE 2
Photos: Summ
um &
Temp G
unSHOPPINGH
ortic
ultu
ral N
ovel
ties
Summum Super Boost: Summum’s Boost is a powerful supplement,
specifically designed for the flowering
stage. Its unique formula, consisting of
nutritive elements and hormones, promotes
a profusion of flowers and fruits. Added to a balanced nutrition, it
will provide a generous vegetative crop as well as an abundant floral
growth. You may use Summum Super Boost as soon as buds appear.
Simply add 2 gr of the product per 10 litres of nutritive solution.
P.S.
Summum O2 Hydrogen Peroxide: Summum O
2 provides numerous benefits to
the plants. It helps germination, maintains
the nutritive solution active and keeps the
roots clean and healthy. It disinfects and
prevents fungal diseases. Finally, it will
provide the oxygen needed for the absorption of the nutrients.
You may add Summum O2 to every watering for soil gardening or
once every second day in a solution for non-soil gardening. Usage
instructions: add 1.5 ml per 4 litres of water or of nutritive solution.
P.S.
Summum B-1 Tonic For Plants: Summum B-1 blend is made up of
nutrients, vitamins and Norwegian
seaweed. Summum B-1 acts as a catalyst
directly on the chemical structure of the
plant to stimulate the active components
during the root growth and during the growing stage. It also acts
as a stabilizer, helping to reduce the stress caused by extreme
environmental changes. It helps the healing of damaged or
weakened plants. You may use it:
• on seedlings and cuttings: it helps the plant to establish the root
system.
• for transplantation: it considerably reduces the transfer shock and
encourages root development.
• for other problems: fungal infections and insects, nutritional
deficiency, etc. Using Summum B-1 after the adequate treatment
will help the healing and recovery of the plant.
• Environment: transport, excessive temperature, etc. It reduces
stress and helps the healing and recovery of the plant.
Guaranteed Analysis: total nitrogen (N) = 1.0%; available
phosphoric acid (P2O
5) =1.0%; soluble potassium (K
2O) = 1.5 %;
vitamin B-1, humic acid, seaweed extract.
Usage instructions: always shake the container well before use;
add the correct quantity of Summum B-1* to the water or to the
nutritive solution; mix well and balance the pH.
*Applications (per week): 1 to 2 ml/L (foliar application: 1ml/L,
transplantation: 2 ml/L, other problems: 2ml/L).
P.S.
Pro Exotics Temp Gun Non-Contact Infrared Temperature Gun PE1 and Laser Sighted Non-Contact Infrared Thermometer PE2The Pro Exotics Temp Guns are terrific tools to give immediate and
accurate non-contact surface temperatures. Easily fine tune your
understanding and comprehension for your particular application,
hobby, or industry. They are ideal for horticulture, gardening,
facility maintenance, cooking, food service, automotive, radio
control and animal care.
Simply aim the thermometer at the target and press the “Scan”
button to display the surface temperature. The distance to target
ratio is 1:1, therefore the thermometer should be positioned as
close to the target as possible. You can change the reading mode
from ‘Cº’ to ‘Fº’. The PE1 has a default emissivity of 0.95, and the
PE2 has a default emissivity of 0.05~1 adjustable. It’s a real wrist
strap! A great tool for a great experience.
Be aware that those tools do not read through glass and do not read
core body temperatures – those units read surface temperatures
only. And do not point the laser of the PE2 model into your eye
– or anyone else’s!
You can also check the websites www.tempgun.com and
www.proexotics.com for the laser sight and high temperature
(2500ºF) units.
Metal case: available at www.tempgun.com.
T.I.G.
The Summum Products By P. Steph
PE1 PE2
Measurement range: -27ºF to 428ºF (-33ºC to 220ºC)
Accuracy: +/- 2ºField of view: 1:1 optics ratioEmissivity: 0.95Battery: CR2032, includedBattery life: 40 hours of continuous
use with auto offDimensions: 25 x 35 x 95 mmResolution: 0.1ºC / 0.1ºFResponse time: 1 secondModes: Max – Min – Lock Weight: 36 gramsCalibration: NIST traceable
calibration available
Range: -27ºF to 428ºF (-33ºC to 250ºC)
Accuracy: +/- 2ºField of view (D:S ratio): 8:1 Emissivity: 0.05~1 adjustable Battery: Two CR2032 batteries,
included Battery life: 40 hours of
continuous use Display: LCDDimensions: 25 x 50 x 110 mmResolution: 0.1oC / 0.1oFResponse time: 1 secondWeight: 80 gramsSpecial features: Red sighting laser /
Modes: Max – Min – Lock
Calibration: NIST traceable calibration available
Warranty: 1 year
New From Hydrofarm: The Mondo Reflector The Mondo Reflector from Hydrofarm is a new reflector which
offers a bigger, broader light spread at an incredible value:
• Broad even spread of light.
• Compatible with all system cord set, ensuring centering of all bulbs.
• Accepts all wattages and all sizes bulbs.
• Low profile, light weight aluminum for easy hanging — 40% less
weight than steel.
• Easily convertible into an air coolable version.
• One reflector does it all — fully airtight design with gasketed lens.
• Incredible value – Big reflector, small price.
Please contact Hydrofarm (www.hydrofarm.com) for ordering
information.
M.M.
Introducing the T5 High Performance Light Kit: The Newest Innovation From Hydrofarm Exclusively from Hydrofarm, the T5 High Performance Light
Kit includes uniquely designed hardware that allows you to link
multiple reflectors together.
Now you can easily create
a light configuration
tailored to suit your specific
growing area. The T5 High
Performance Kit fits most
T5 fluorescent grow lights,
is available with a 2-foot
or 4-foot reflector, and
includes special “linking” hardware.
• Modular and extendable to fit your every lighting need.
• Increases efficiency of any T5 Grow Light.
• Super reflective interior finish directs more light energy to your
plants.
• Hang it any way you like! Use it as an up light, down light, or
side light.
• “Daisy chain” up to 8 units in any rectangular design imaginable,
or link into single rows.
• No Tools Required — Connecting units together is quick and easy.
Please contact Hydrofarm (www.hydrofarm.com) for additional
product information.
M.M.
Phot
os: H
ydro
farm
SHOPPING
Introducing MagiCalTechnaflora Plant Products has just launched a new product
called MagiCal. A highly enriched formulated blend of
magnesium, calcium and iron, MagiCal promotes vigorous
and healthy plant growth for both soil and soilless gardens.
Incorporated in your regular feeding program MagiCal
increases flower bud absorption and improves the nutritional
quality of plants while correcting nutrient related plant
deficiencies such as grape stem rot, grass tetany, tip burn in
lettuce, blackheart in celery, blossom end rot in tomato or
watermelon and bitter pit in apple. In addition to correcting
nutrient deficiencies, MagiCal also accelerates protein
syntheses, maintains high starch content in crops, improves
the density of fruit and the production of essential oils,
creates lush and greener foliage, and maintains a healthy
root system.
Designed for universal application, and
tested to work in conjunction with
any premium brand of nutrients
in our industry, MagiCal is for
customers whose gardens require
bolstered levels of magnesium and/
or calcium. MagiCal is scientifically
formulated to make extra cagnesium
and calcium readily available during
vigorous plant development. These
elements are highly essential and
can often times be deficient in
both soil and hydroponic systems.
Completely soluble and clear of any
sediment, MagiCal will mix with ease
into any solution providing an instantly
available source of required nutrients. To learn more about
MagiCal or about other Technaflora Plant Products visit their
website at www.technaflora.com.
L.M.
Plasmaponix: dare to grow!Here come the Plasmapockets.
Plasmaponix’s new pocket for vertical
growing is now on the market. The goal:
making you dare to grow where no one
has grown before: in vertically suspended
pockets. The pockets are soft, and are
suspended one above the other with
shower curtain hooks. The watering
system is comprised of a 6 millimeter hose
to properly irrigate the plants. Inserting
mesh pots or 8 centimeter rock wool cubes into the pocket
is ideal to facilitate nutrient access for the root mass.
To drain? Simply install a gutter at the base, or a T connection
system with a one centimeter hose. The hose will bring the
water to other plants or rather to the central recuperation
system, where it will be re-oxygenated and recycled.
Plasmaponix is an intelligent system, that should tickle your
imagination!
J.C.
The Garden GhostThe Garden Ghost scares birds and animals by emitting
a loud burst of air. A compressed can of
air with infrared motion detector lets
out a strong burst of air
when any heat-producing
mammal moves in
front of the Garden
Ghost. Each can has
over 200 bursts of air.
W.S.
Odor Controller AromaskOdor controller Aromask is an innovative
product that masks odors very
well. It does not leave that oily
aftertaste in your throat when you
consume your fruits and vegetables
after cleaning your growing space.
W.S.
Micro TimeMist Ultra Concentrated Metered Air Freshener PackWith over 3 500 bursts of odor control per bottle and a
time-release dispenser, this product from
TimeMist is very effective. With its ultra
concentrated premium fragrances, the
Micro TimeMist Ultra Concentrated
Metered Air Freshener Pack is one of
the more effective at controlling strong
odors. The TimeMist Plus utilizes
cutting-edge electronics to offer
simple and complete programmability.
It allows you to control fragrance intensity using spray
settings (light, medium and heavy) that fit your odor
needs. It is also very discreet. Sophistication meets
intelligence in a programmable dispenser.
T.I.G.
Buckeye International Green Apple Odor EliminatorThe Green Apple odour eliminator from Buckeye International will
not stain fabric, has a neutral pH and is biodegradable. Odour and
appearance: thin liquid with fruity fragrance. It gently diffuses its
�0THE INDOOR GARDENER VOLUME 2 – ISSUE 2
Photos: Plasmaponix, Technaflora &
D.R
.SHOPPING
�2THE INDOOR GARDENER VOLUME 2 – ISSUE 2
SHOPPINGPhotos: W
orm’s W
ay, Higrocorp &
D.R
.
green apple fragrance into your house, growing
space, shed, etc.
This product is available by the gallon, in an Action
Pac, and in 55-gallon drum packaging.
T.I.G.
TimeMist Extra Programmable Dispenser This fragrance dispenser from TimeMist, one of the twelve models
available from this company, offers programming features like
time of day, start/stop times with light (30 minutes), medium (15
minutes) or heavy (7.5 minutes) spray settings, basic on/off control,
LED service reminder and a 30-day refill life.
Other features: audio service reminder, LED battery
replacement reminder, lifetime quality guarantee. This
product utilizes 2 “C” cell batteries. This dispenser is
specifically designed for use with TimeMist and Clean
Air Purge metered aerosols. Visit www.timemist.
com.
T.I.G.
Molexit Even though moles aerate the soil and eat
insect pests that might otherwise
plague the lawn and garden,
most home and business owners
aren’t keen to the unsightly trails
they leave behind. Castor-oil
based Molexit is easy to apply and naturally deters moles without
harming them or the environment. Extensive testing of Molexit
done by the Department of Forestry at the University of Kentucky
revealed no mole activity for up to six weeks in 80% of the treated
area. One 3kg box of Molexit covers up to half an acre, available at
earth-friendly garden centers nationwide.
K.B.
SaferGro Expands OMRI-Listed Offerings Weed Zap and pH Down are the latest additions to SaferGro’s
line of garden products certified by the Organic Materials Review
Institute (OMRI). The non-toxic formulation of cinnamon oil and
vinegar in Weed Zap inhibits plant growth and successfully controls
unwanted weeds. Safe to use around people and pets, Weed Zap
is a non-selective foliar herbicide available in a 1 litre ready-to-
use spray as well as pint and quart concentrates. Meanwhile, the
organic acids in pH Down improve nutrient uptake
by lowering the pH of alkaline soils and hydroponics
solutions. Visit your favourite year ‘round garden
center for information on these and other SaferGro
products.
K.B.
Sunleaves Introduces Soil Sweetener All-natural Sunleaves Soil Sweetener is a sensible
solution for environmentally-conscious gardeners
looking to raise the pH of overly acidic soils or simply
turn their blue hydrangeas blush. The pulverized
dolomitic limestone in Soil Sweetener consistently
slow-releases calcium and magnesium to prevent any
associated plant burn. Each economical 2 kg bag of Soil Sweetener
covers approximately 4.6 square metres. Please visit www.
sunleaves.com to learn more about Soil Sweetener and find where
to buy it in your area.
K.B.
Timing Devices Remember So You Don’t Have To Keep your gardening tasks on track with easy-to-use Digital Timer
Strips and Raindrip Dual Station Water Timers. Excellent for
powering up multiple fans, propagation mats and other
indoor electronics, each 125-volt Digital Timer Strip
features eight total outlets; four can be
programmed in 24-hour increments
up to seven days in advance. And to
simplify watering chores outdoors, the
battery-operated Raindrip Dual Station Water
Timer allows you to automatically water two
separate garden areas from one water source by
setting the individual frequency and duration of each timer outlet.
Digital Timer Strips and Dual Station Water Timers are available
nationwide. Stop in your favourite garden center to find out more.
K.B.
Organa Guano from HigrocorpWe knew it was organic — now the Organic Material Review
Institute agrees with us too. The innovative OMRI
listed Organa Guano from Higrocorp is a natural
organic flowering stimulant derived from
fruit eating bats. Higrocorp does the work of
Mother Nature by predigesting the phosphorus
so it’s readily available. The product also binds
calcium, iron and zinc thus allowing 100% of
the phosphorus to be readily available to your
plant. Organa Guano stimulates early flowering, contains beneficial
bacteria, increases the number of flower sites, enhances aroma
and improves taste. This product is non-burning and contains no
harmful odour or dust. The highly efficient liquid is affordable
(3.8 litres = 5 kilograms of fossilized powder). Even under ideal
conditions, powdered fossilized guano is not available to plants for
at least one year. If you are looking to pack extra weight on your
crop it can now be achieved organically. For more information and
a list of distributors, please visit organaponics.com.
T. K.
��THE INDOOR GARDENER VOLUME 2 – ISSUE 2
Photos: Canna & D
.R.
Q & A
Q Hi!
I am having trouble with a young cutting of an indoor plant: the
leaves are yellowing in an irregular pattern, at the extremities and
on the surface. It seems to happen more on the leaves between the
oldest and the newest. Here are my growing conditions: in soil, pH
6, MH250 neon, average temperature 23, one month old cuttings.
Thanks!
Manu
A Hello Manu,
The yellowing of the leaves could be caused by a few different things. It is
possible that the plant is being over watered, causing the roots to drown
and therefore choke out the corresponding leaves on the plant. Most plants
need the roots to dry a little bit before more water is given; if the soil is still
moist when you go to water, let it dry for a day or two and then check again.
I have seen water-logged plants recover beautifully when left to dry
out from over watering.
If it is not caused by over watering and is a well rooted cutting, it could
be looking for nutrients that are not being provided. Try giving it a
feeding with a food for vegetative growth and add some B1 to help
correct a nutrient deficiency (follow the nutrient directions and be
patient, don’t add a double dose, too much is worse than not enough).
Once a cutting takes root, it can start growing very quickly and its
nutrient needs will change. A healthy rooted plant will deplete the soil
of nutrients faster than a non-rooted cutting. If you have been feeding it
properly, the subsequent growth may have caused the plant to become root
bound and you will need to transplant it to a larger container to let the roots
spread out. To check if a plant is root bound, simply lift up the container and
look at the drainage holes. If there are roots coming out of the holes, there
is a good chance it is time to pot-up. If your container has no
drainage holes, gently tap the sides of the container to loosen
the soil and gently slide the plant and soil out. If there is a mesh
of roots tightly wrapped around the bottom or sides of the soil,
you need a larger pot. When you transplant a root bound plant
you can soak it in Canna’s Cannazym, which helps break down
old and unused roots, allowing for new growth of roots and a
healthy plant. Again I would recommend adding some B1 to
ease the stress of transplanting.
Your growing conditions seem to be in check, so keep an eye on the
watering, feeding and transplanting. Knowing how long your plant can go
between waterings will help the rest fall into place.
Edward Jackson
Q Hi!
Hi. What does soluble Miracle-Gro do, or other similar
flowering “boosts” (if they exist)? And would you
know a good store or two, or companies that offer
natural nutrients for indoor plants?
Thanks!
Seb
A Hello Seb,
Miracle-Gro Ultra Bloom is a water–soluble plant food for
blooming plants, which provides nutrients in a different quantity than for
plants still in the vegetative growth stage. Most flowering boosts supply
a plant with low levels of nitrogen and higher levels of potassium and
phosphorus, which increase the size and sometimes the aroma of flowers
and fruit. One of the best natural supplements you can add to a regular
blooming nutrient regime is bat guano and it is available at most hydroponic
and indoor garden shops.
Edward Jackson
Q Hi!
I’d like to know more about the super product “Diva” (small bottle
of suspended concentrate against spider mites, etc.)
Thanks a lot!
M.T.
A Hi,
Diva, the phytosanitary additive created in 1994, is no longer commercialized
as of three years ago (final end of commercialization: 2003-06-06). The
product was pulled from the market following an abandonment request
by the manufacturing company itself, Aventis Cropscience UK Ltd. The
flowable concentrated suspension, made up of 333 gr/l of Chlorothalonil
and of 167 gr/l of Iprodione, was also sold under another commercial name,
Bolide (manufactured by Rhône Poulenc Agro France following the English
Diva reference product after the two companies merged in 1999). Contrary
to what you believe, this product, designed for the treatment of the aerial
parts of different varieties of peas, was not designed for spider mite control,
but to prevent and treat fungal infestations such as bull’s eye rot and
botrytis. The risks associated to that product were quite high:
• Dangerous for aquatic lifeforms;
• Risks and possibility of irreversible effects;
• Could lead to sensitization through skin contact;
• Toxicology risk: toxic.
QU ESTIONS & A NSW ERSOur indoor gardening and hydroponics experts are here to help. You have questions, we have answers. All you need to do is ask. Send your questions to: [email protected].
Phot
o: IN
RA
, D.R
. & P
ower
Mas
ter
There are many biological and chemical ways of fighting spider mites. See
our older issues: we have often covered the topic. Have a good harvest!
B.B.
(Source: Catalogue des produits phytopharmaceutiques et de leurs usages, des matières fertilisantes et des supports de culture homologués en France / French ministry of agriculture and fishing / http://e-phy.agriculture.gouv.fr).
Q Hi!
I recently got a several copies of your magazine and I’ve located a
product that is pictured and referenced in Volume 1, Issue 6 that
I really want to purchase. The article in the Shopping Novelties
section, page 63, Vol. 1, Issue 6, appears to be a cable suspension
system. I cannot find any information as to where I can purchase
these. Please find out from the articles author (Bill S.) where these
can be purchased. I have included a PDF scan of that page indicating
the photo of the item I seek. There are two pictured on the page
and I’m looking for the heavy duty one that is painted yellow and
circled on the scan. Your assistance will be greatly appreciated.
Many Thanks!
Tim Hahn
A Hi Tim,
The cable suspension system featured in the picture on page 63, in Vol. 1,
issue 6 is from the India based company PowerMaster. Their website is at: www.
springbalancers.com and their distributors in the U.S.A. and Canada are:
Powermaster Engineered Tools
1300 South Frazier Street, Suite 304, Conroe, TX, 77301, U.S.A.
Tel: +1-936-494-3501 Fax: +1-936-494-3505
E-Mail: [email protected]
Powermaster Midwest Ltd.
500 Pearl Street, Alton, IL, 62002, U.S.A.
Tel: +1-618-462-4113 Fax: +1-618-462-3713
E-Mail: [email protected]
Powermaster Tube & Torque
1262 Faucher Road, Casselman, Ontario, K0A 1M0, Canada
Tel: +1-613-764-0572 Fax: +1-613-764-3719
E-Mail: [email protected]
Web: www.tubetools.ca
The part of the text referring to this cable suspension system was missing in
the printed version of the article, and we apologize for that. You can read
the whole text that was supposed to be printed next to the picture in the
erratum at the beginning of this issue (page 4).
Best regards,
H.G.
Q & A
Left: healthy peas; right: infested peas
��THE INDOOR GARDENER VOLUME 2 – ISSUE 2
Photos: T.I.G., Jungle Products, Enviro-Lite &
D.R
.Q & A
Q Dear Sirs
Thank you for sending me a free issue of your new
magazine The Indoor Gardener Magazine, Vol. 1 – Issue
4. The subject matter looked interesting, but I had a
hard time reading most of the articles. There was not
enough contrast between the print and background.
I am enclosing one of the pages as reference. I do not
understand why it is necessary to use so much color when
printing articles. It really distracts from the subject matter.
A bold underline of a Web site address would do a much
better job of identifying the Web site address. I would
have subscribed to your magazine but not in its present
format.
Sincerely,
Evelyn A. Hoyt/Mt. Shasta Ostrich Ranch, Mt. Shasta, CA
A Dear Evelyn,
I hope you have noticed that we have hired a new graphic
artist, Anna Kanaras, since the last issue (vol. 2 – issue 1) to
solve this readability problem that many other readers have
also shared with us. In any case we will send you for free
these two last issues, hoping you will find them more to
your taste and that, now, you will not hesitate to subscribe
and therefore enter to win fabulous prizes (see page 20
of this issue)!
Sincere salutations
The Editors
Q Hello
I live in the USA and would like to subscribe to your magazine
but your order form states that it can only be paid in Canadian
dollars through international postal orders. I was wondering if an
international money order in US dollars would be adequate.
Thank You,
Tyler
A Hello Tyler,
Contrary to what our subscription form states, we do accept postal or bank
orders in US dollars, as long as they are printed on a voucher that bears the
“international” mention. We will fix this printing mistake on the subscription
form as of this current issue. Our apologies.
We would also like to take advantage of this answer to let our readers know
that as of this issue, we will no longer accept subscriptions from abroad,
except for the United States. Foreign subscriptions are too costly for the
shipping of only six issues a year, because this quantity is too small for Canada
Post to grant us a preferential rate. We apologize for any inconvenience.
Salutations
The Editors
Q Hello
I am an 18 year old male who has just recently moved of my parents’
home. I have always loved nature, plants, gardening, etc., and when
I found out about my local hydroponics store, “Waterworks”, I was
very excited. I am fairly new at plant care and gardening and thought
it wouldn’t hurt to write in and ask a question. First, I only have a
few plants growing right now in a soil medium, and I was wondering
if you have a good suggestion for a lamp that would save money as
well as give all of my plants the light they need. I have heard that a
high pressure sodium light would be most efficient, but is there a
good wattage for a small number of plants?
Also, I would like to subscribe to your magazine and be entered
into that draw if possible. I look forward to an enjoyable read and
wonderful tips!
Thanks,
Dillon Fauser, Lethbridge, AB
A Dear Dillon,
HPS lamps provide excellent light but also emit
quite a bit of heat (both the lamp and the ballast
give off heat), so if you decide to use them you
must also ventilate the area, allowing fresh cool air
in and evacuating the hot humid air, or else you may
cook your garden. The wattage is not determined
by the number of plants, but by the surface area
of the garden. As far as the lighting capability of a
high pressure sodium lamp goes, a 400 watt lamp will cover
a three foot by three foot area, a 600 watt will cover about
four and a half square feet and a 1000 watt will cover about
six square feet. Keep in mind that the higher the wattage,
the greater the heat. A solution to the heat caused by high
pressure sodium and metal halide lamps is to use a compact fluorescent
Enviro-Lite. They are 125 watt lamps that light about three square feet and
give off very little heat (plants can even touch the lamp and not burn). Using
two Enviro-Lites will give you about the same light coverage as a 400 watt
HPS with much less heat. I find they work well for seedlings, vegetative
growth and flowering on most plants, although some plants may require
the addition of another lamp for flowering.
Compact fluorescents are less expensive to buy,
draw less electricity and don’t give off as much
heat as HPS lamps. High pressure sodium lamps
give off much more intense light than compact
fluorescents, allowing for more vigorous
growth and flowering. Talk to the folks at your
local garden shop, let them know the size of
your garden and ask about the strong and
weak points of the different lighting options
available.
Edward Jackson
Distributed in the United States by Sun Gro Horticulture Distribution, Inc 15831 NE 8th Street, Suite 100 Bellevue, WA 98008 USADistributed in Canada by Sun Gro Horticulture Canada Ltd. 52130 RR65, PO Box 189, Seba Beach, AB T0B 2B0 Canada
© 2006 Sun Gro Horticulture Canada Ltd. Sunshine and Sun Gro are registered trademarks of Sun Gro Horticulture Canada Ltd. All Rights Reserved.© 2006 Sun Gro Horticulture Canada Ltd. Sunshine and Sun Gro are registered trademarks of Sun Gro Horticulture Canada Ltd. Black Gold is a registered
trademark of Odin Enterprises II LLC. All Rights Reserved.
Distributed in the United States by Sun Gro Horticulture Distribution, Inc 15831 NE 8th Street, Suite 100 Bellevue, WA 98008 USADistributed in Canada by Sun Gro Horticulture Canada Ltd. 52130 RR65, PO Box 189, Seba Beach, AB T0B 2B0 Canada
© 2006 Sun Gro Horticulture Canada Ltd. Sunshine and Sun Gro are registered trademarks of Sun Gro Horticulture Canada Ltd. All Rights Reserved.© 2006 Sun Gro Horticulture Canada Ltd. Sunshine and Sun Gro are registered trademarks of Sun Gro Horticulture Canada Ltd. Black Gold is a registered
trademark of Odin Enterprises II LLC. All Rights Reserved.
(1) Start with premium potting soil, Black Gold Cocoblend;
(2) Use a container that is suitable for hydroponic growing;
(3) Fill container with Black Gold Cocoblend. Remove the plant from its commercial container. Handle plant by root ball and allow the roots to spread. Wash the roots under tepid water to remove any organic matter. Cut broken or damaged roots. Cut the foliage to reduce its mass compared to that of the roots (That will allow the roots to gain strength.) Plant in the coco medium.
(4) Water as needed but do not over water;
(5) Here is a picture of the finished product – a beautiful potted plant.
“stevie d’s recipe for success”
1-800-842-3256www.sungro.com
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