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Quad Biking in Hartmann Valley
Sundowners: a safari tradition On the wing over the Skeleton Coast The King of Beasts - before breakfast!
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NamibiaNAMIBIA
This is a land of sunshine, big skies, extraordinary landscapes and unusual
people. It has horizons that never end, peculiar flat-topped hills rising out of a
parched desert, and places where the ground simply disappears without warning
into immense chasms.
Namibia is vast even in African terms, and with one of the worlds lowest
population densities, has as much space as you could want. Space equals distance
and distance requires time - time to explore some of the greatest natural wonders
in the world.
S A N D D U N E S 1 0 0 0 F E E T H I G H
In the southern part of the Namib Desert, which stretches along Namibias
entire coastline, are the most astonishing sand dunes. Awesomely enormous at
almost 1,000 ft high, and constantly changing color from glowing orange to
deep purple, they will entice you to sink your feet into their warm sands. Their
extreme remoteness adds to the allure, and once there you should stay in one of
the desert lodges to experience a dazzling Southern Hemisphere night sky.
H A L L U C I N A T I N G H E A T
In northern Namibia lies Etosha National Park, notable for its unusual
terrain and diversity of wildlife. If you are ever going to witness a mirage it will
be here, as the vast glimmering salt pans induce a hazy hallucinatory state. Herds
of oryx, well-adjusted to heat and drought, wander across the desolate pans, while
other animals seek out a living from the surrounding sparse grasslands.
In times of rain this hostile saline desert metamorphoses into a rich organic
lagoon full of flamingos, pelicans and myriad water birds. The plains burst with
little yellow flowers and grazing animals give birth, timing the growth of their
young to take advantage of this briefly abundant supply of water.
R E S P E C T T H E R O A D
You had better get used to heat and dust when travelling in Namibia,
because apart from two main highways the country is serviced by a vast network
of gravel roads. A good reason to allow a local guide to handle your transport is
because most road fatalities are tourists in hire cars, going too fast on the dirt roads.
Fly-in safaris are the best way to get around this huge country and I learned this
lesson when escorting my first group to Namibia in 1993. We had a 21-day itinerary
covering 2,100 miles by road-and after that experience, my advice is, Take to the
wing.
V I C T O R I A N D R E S S I N 1 0 0 F
It is important to know a little of Namibias history in order to understand
the country. Placid, nomadic San Bushmen - the original inhabitants - were
displaced by stronger tribes, some of whom are noticeable today by their distinctive
style of dress. Herero women from the central north are unmistakable in long ankle
to neck Victorian dresses - a legacy from missionaries - even though it is 100f in
the shade. In total contrast are the beautiful Himba from the northwest, who cover
their scantily clad flesh and entwine their dreadlocks with rich ochre mud.
Like many African countries, Namibia was fought over many times and
Germany gained control in 1890. Britain pressured South Africa to invade in 1914
and Namibia came under South African administration until its independence in
1990. These influences explain the mixed traditions of this country, but it is for its
natural wonders that most people pay a visit.
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The Caprivi StripT H E C A P R I V I S T R I P - a p l a c e w o r t h f i g h t i n g f o r
298
The Caprivi is a strange strip of land in the far north east corner of Namibia
that is the meeting place of four other Southern African countries: Angola, Botswana,
Zambia and Zimbabwe. These bizarre borders are a legacy of colonialism, which
split tribal areas with little or no regard for traditional boundaries. It is no wonder
that there have been a few cross-border skirmishes, especially as the Caprivi strip
has changed hands a number of times, including being administered by Germany,
Southern Rhodesia, South West African Protectorate, South Africa and finally an
independent Namibia.
A T R U L Y A F R I C A N S C E N E
This is Namibias only area of high rainfall and summer floodwaters spill
over the banks of its border rivers onto wide floodplains, while the central area
stays quite dry. From November to February, humidity is high and biting insects
are prolific, but the rest of the year is very pleasant.
Forests rise high with leadwood and teak trees and the tall sausage tree
dangles its huge fruit like giant salamis hanging on a thread. Ghostly gray baobabs
contrast with colorful birds of which the pink and purple carmine bee-eater is
perhaps the prettiest, while the African fish eagle is undoubtedly the grandest.
Add a whole range of animals on land and in water and a truly African scene awaits
you here in the Caprivi.One of Africas most interesting trees, baobabs live for hundreds of years.
Grandest of eagles: the African fish eagle
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Hunters Come in Many Forms
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A solitary malachite kingfisher is seldom seen; they usually congregate in groups or pairs. In cold blood: crocodiles lack the ability to self-regulate their own body temperature.
Tiger bream and many other species of sh tempt the avid angler. Look for them in the Chobe and Kasai Rivers.
H U N T E R S C O M E I N M A N Y F O R M S
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An elephant pile-up? Its a common sight on the Chobe River.
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This lodge lies at the meeting place of
two mighty African rivers: the Chobe
and Zambezi, and four countries:
Namibia, Zambia, Zimbabwe and
Botswana. This is the only place in the
world where four countries meet.
Two massive baobab trees dominate
the main complex, which has a
swimming pool, lounge, bar and dining
area serving world class cuisine.
Eight en-suite wood and thatch chalets
have private decks and superb views of
fast-flowing rapids. Privacy and relax-
ation are paramount at Impalila.
LOCATION: Northeastern Namibia,
43 miles from Zimbabwe/Zambias
Victoria Falls.
Member of Classic Safari Camps of Africa
This lodge lies on Namibias remote
Kwando River - a permanent water
source nourishing delicate ecosystems
and sustaining varied big game and
birdlife. You can venture out in a
vehicle, a boat or by foot and even
have a romantic, candlelit bush dinner
in the wilderness.
With just six personally attended
suites, each complete with its own
viewing deck and private plunge pool,
your privacy and comfort are assured.
The cool, restful interior is a respite in
which to recharge your senses and store
the days precious safari memories.
LOCATION: On the Kwando River
of northeastern Namibia, near Victoria
Falls.
Member of Classic Safari Camps of Africa
S U S U W E I S L A N D L O D G E
The Caprivi Strip
I M P A L I L A I S L A N D L O D G E
The Caprivi Strip
Boat g ame vie wing Bird-watching Canoeing with poler Fishing Game walks
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Game drives Game walks Boating Bush meals Nature walks Plunge pools
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The Ovambo name Etosha means huge white area or place of dry water,
depending on whom you ask. Either way it aptly describes the vast, shallow pan
that is dry and cracked for most of the year.
It used to be a lake the size of Holland, but now shimmers a silvery bright
white from salt across its entire surface. Hazy mirages distort your eyesight and
make you see all sorts of things that are not really there.
P I N K M I S T O F A M I L L I O N F L A M I N G O S
This inhospitable pan is 75 miles long and 45 miles at its widest. Seemingly
inert, it is brought to life with rains, that may or may not come between January
and March. Up to three feet of water turns the parched surface into a slushy, algae-
rich soup attracting thousands of birds - which is a sight to behold. The pink mist
shifting slowly across the surface is in fact up to a million flamingos, for whom this
is an important breeding ground.
At this time the surrounding woodland savannah and scrubland, which is
normally sparsely vegetated, bursts with little yellow blooms and rich grasses.
Animals abound in great numbers and herds of 50 elephants are common. They
often stroll right down the middle of the road and I was once surrounded on all
sides by wrinkly gray skin while their curious trunks explored every nook and
cranny of the vehicle. Knowing they could easily upturn our vehicle, I hardly dared
breathe until the last elephant had passed.
T H E L I O N A N D T H E U N I C O R N
The desert dwelling oryx, upon which the mythical unicorn must surely be
based, will certainly be seen here along with the impressive curly horned kudu.
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Etosha National ParkE T O S H A N A T I O N A L P A R K
In the dry season, Etoshas waterholes shrink to puddles, making for concentrated wildlife viewing.
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I have often sighted lions and hyenas, and love the little silver-backed jackals that
trot around, almost oblivious of you. The park also contains endangered black
rhino and unusual species like black-faced impala and the tiny Damara dik dik.
Etosha has dozens of waterholes, some natural, others artificially fed from
boreholes. During the dry season game viewing at waterholes is very rewarding
as a veritable Noahs Arc of different species gather to await their turn, with
elephants taking the lions share!
Serious photographers may find Etosha frustrating as no off-road driving is
permitted, but in dry dusty November, all you need to do is park at a waterhole
and be ready as the animals take turns to parade in front of your camera.
303
Zebra are among the most water-dependent of the plains game.
Elephants actually dust themselves to remove ticks.
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Fighting between adult male oryx can be intense when water - and females - are in short supply.
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The Long and the Short of It . . .
305
The stare of a Cape eagle owl can be quite disconcerting.The red-billed hornbill is omnivorous, sometimes tackling prey as large as a small rodent.
T H E L O N G A N D T H E S H O R T O F I T . . .
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Taking it to the Limits
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Author vs. rhino; while short-sighted, rhinos have a good sense of smell; dont try this at home!
In order to attract mates, a springbok male antelope must win and hold a territory.
T A K I N G I T T O T H E L I M I T S
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These lodges border Etosha National
Park, Namibias premier wildlife park.
Day game drives take you through the
unique terrain of Etosha, full of lion,
elephant, cheetah, oryx, springbok and
many other photogenic species.
Night drives and walks take place on
the private reserve where the lodge is
situated. You can even track rhino in
this reserve, as both the large white
rhino and smaller, short-tempered
black rhino are found here - a rare treat
indeed.
The lodge has ten comfortable chalets
and a swimming pool. Meals are served
either in the thatched dining area with
a view over the camps waterhole, or on
the dining deck under the stars.
LOCATION: See location at right.
Ongava Tented Camp offers a
wonderful bush experience in a small,
classic, traditional tented camp. There
are just six East African-styled walk-
in tents with en-suite bathrooms. All
meals are enjoyed in the thatched
dining area overlooking a well-
frequented floodlit waterhole. You can
experience excellent game viewing
from the veranda or the pool.
This lodge is situated in a different
sector of the reserve to Ongava Lodge,
but offers similar game drives and
walks.
LOCATION: In the large Ongava
Game Reserve, bordering Etosha
National park in northwest Namibia.
O N G A V A L O D G E & L I T T L E O N G A V A
Outside Etosha National Park
O N G A V A T E N T E D C A M P
Outside Etosha National Park
307
Day & night game drives Game walks Swimming pool Bird-watching Viewing hide Day & night game drives Game walks Swimming pool Bird-watching Viewing hide
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Only the hardiest people live in this unforgiving land, but those that do are
unlike any other tribe in Africa. Clad only in goatskins, the Himba are probably
the most beautiful people in Sub-Saharan Africa, with a tall proud bearing and
innate elegance. They protect and adorn their bodies and hair with rich ochre
mud and jewelry fashioned from leather, metal and shells. The red earth of
Africa mixed with animal fat glows on their skin like molten chocolate. You will
only get to meet the Himba people if you travel to the remote northwest area of
Namibia, which is a great distance from any town or city.
R O C K Y M O U N T A I N S R I S E F R O M T H E D E S E R T
Namibia is a land of great disparity and this area once again demonstrates
those contrasts with stark plains, petrified forests and ancient valleys leading to the
rocky outcrops and soaring peaks of the Brandberg Massive Mountains. You will
experience a vastness that is almost overwhelming.
T H E W H I T E L A D Y I S A M A N !
The Twyfelfontein rock formations are famous for containing the most
significant Stone Age rock art in Namibia. The famous White Lady who resides
on a wall here has caused a bit of a stir as researchers have decided that she is
actually a he.
Nearby, volcanic dolorite columns of rock glow in the sun like copper organ
pipes while the Burnt Mountain smoulders with deep heat colors of purple and
red. Further south, the brooding Brandberg Mountains rise 6,500 ft above sea level
to dominate the horizon.
Desert elephants roam around the more vegetated areas and you are most
likely to spot these rare pachyderms along the dry riverbeds. The elephants trunks
can often be seen pointing skywards to reach the very last leaf on a tree, as fodder is
scarce in this arid place. Black rhino plus a number of antelopes and even cheetah
and lion are also occasionally seen. You will certainly come across Damara goat
herders as they roam in search of food for their stock.
D A M A R A L A N D E N I G M A
All of the arid locations discussed in this region of Africa - which include
Sossusvlei and the Skeleton Coast as well as Damaraland - have the ability to
invoke a great inner peace. Life suddenly feels effortless as your perspective
changes and you succumb to the beauty of nature. Author Ed Morris, on safari
with me in 1993, was so moved by this place, that while he sat on a rock one night,
his next book began to form in his mind. Evolution to Sainthood was written and
published with a bit of help from the Damaraland enigma.
308
Rugged, desolate, glorious: Damaraland awes and impresses with its starkly beautiful, panoramic landscape.DamaralandD A M A R A L A N D - A P l a c e t o F e e d Y o u r S o u l
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Damaralands endless vistas dwarf the creatures that roam them - its stark plains, ancient valleys and soaring peaks seem to go on forever.
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Mountain zebra are ever-elusive; these shy creatures form a living calligraphy in the early evening light.
Endangered desert elephant have developed a knack for locating pockets of verdant forage in this harsh locale.
Though undenyably ancient, bushman rock art is both aesthetic . . . and mysterious. There must be an elephant around here somewhere . . .
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Diminutive Damaraland dik-dik seem impossibly fragile for such a harsh environment, yet they have adapted to this arid land by depending almost solely on vegetation for moisture.
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Ever-vigilant for predators, springbok prefer short-grass savannahs to lusher areas of tall grass.
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Damaraland Camp is in the arid Huab
River Valley with endless vistas across
stark plains, ancient valleys and the
soaring Brandberg Mountains.
This comfortable and friendly tented
camp offers walks and drives in one of
the best wilderness areas in Namibia.
Special features are its unique natural
rock swimming pool and exceptional
stargazing into crystal clear night
skies.
Although wildlife is not concentrated,
the rare desert elephant roams here
as well as oryx, springbok, ostrich
and other hardy desert animals. Rare
succulent plants somehow manage
to eke out an existence in this harsh
countryside.
LOCATION: In the private Torra
Wildlife Conservancy, 55 miles inland
from the Skeleton Coast.
D A M A R A L A N D C A M P
Da ma ral an d
Nat ure wal ks Game drives Swimming pool Bird watching Mountain biking
313
P A L M W A G R H I N O C A M P
Da ma ra lan d
Palmweg Rhino Camp is run in
conjunction with the Save the Rhino
Trust in Northern Damaraland. It
offers an amazing insight into the
ecology and conservation of this area,
while also contributing to the Trust,
the rhino conservation operations and
the sustainability of the region.
A maximum of sixteen guests can be
accommodated and will enjoy viewing
Hartmanns mountain zebra, giraffe,
gemsbok, springbok, ostrich, elephant,
lions, cheetah, leopard, spotted and
brown hyena and black rhino.
The camp has 8 large Meru tents
with en-suite facilities including
bucket showers, hot water on call and
flush toilets.
LOCATION: In the 1 million acre
Palmwag Reserve between Etosha and
Skeleton Coast.
Nat ure walk s Day & nvight game drives Black rhino tracking Bird watching
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If you want to experience the Himba people, plan to include a visit to
remote Hartmann Valley on your Namibia safari. An isolated oasis in the midst
of arid vastness, this surprising pocket of green is the gift of the Kunene River,
which provides the only permanent source of water for a great distance, a magnet
for these nomadic herders and their families.
A N O M A D I C & S I M P L E L I F E S T Y L E
The tribal Himba first came to Hartmann Valley in the 16th century, traveling
south out of Angola in search of new grazing lands for their idea of wealth: cattle,
sheep and goats. The Himba lifestyle has changed little from the past, making for
a fascinating experience of a vanishing way of life.
You will want to spend time with the Himba, whose distinctive manner
of dress and adornments are both exotic - and practical. Ochre earth mixed with
butterfat dresses their skin and hair, providing simple but effective protection
from the intense sunlight of this region. As well as appearnace, all Himba activities
revolve around their precious livestock - diet, ornamentation, even courtship and
social standing.
Himba handcrafts are beautifully organic, making for unique keepsakes
of this unforgettable experience. On my last visit, I purchased an ostrich shell
necklace for my ten-year-old granddaughter, who liked it so much that she has not
taken it off since I gave it to her.
Hartmann ValleyH A R T M A N N V A L L E Y
314
One way in: the rst astonishing view of Hartmann Valley greenery amidst its sere surroundings is a spectacular one.
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M O R E F U N T H A N B U M P E R C A R S
Learning about tribal culture isnt the only attraction that draws the intrepid
traveller to Hartmanns. The expansive landscape invites exploration by vehicle
and by foot, while the cool blue of the river promises respite from the heat of the
day. Boating excursions are a terrifc way to cool off, while the towering dunes of
Hartmann Valley cry out to be explored.
And what could be more exciting and fun than exploring by quad bike? Your
guide will accompany you, as much to help dig you out of that last wheelie you
attempted, as to get you back to camp! I felt like a kid the day I tried it. From the
top of a dune, I rang up an old friend via satellite phone to share the fun. In the
course of the conversation, I commented that the last time I had such a good time
was in a bumper car when I was a kid.
A N U N E X P L A I N E D M Y S T E R Y
You will also discover an eerie mystery in this river valley: fairy circles. These
circular, slightly concave depressions are surrounded by sparse grasses, yet devoid
of vegetation.
Even if a seed inside this circle sprouts after a rainfall, it will not survive for very
long. A great deal of scientific research hs been done over the years to explain
this unusual phenomena, but the cause is as yet unknown.
315
Lisa Rigge, ready for quad biking adventure. Oh, for the simple life! Nomadic Himba keep things plain and portable. Older women are greatly respected in the Himba culture.
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The Himba benet from tourism by selling their handcrafts. The workmanship is beautiful, the designs simple and elegant.
No one knows what causes fairy circles, yet they appear throughout this area.
Young Himba women have developed adornment into an art form.
Shades of the Desert . . .S H A D E S O F T H E D E S E R T . . .
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Serra Cafema Camp, located along the
Kunene River in the extreme north-
west of Namibia, has to be the most
remote camp in Southern Africa. For
those who appreciate wild places, the
journey here is one of the most exciting
in Africa, culminating in a breathtaking
descent to the camp.
It is a small 12-bed camp which shares
the region with the Himba people - one
of Africas last nomadic tribes.
The Kunene River is the only source
of water in this area and creates a lush
oasis surrounded by rugged mountains
and sand dunes. Activities are many
and include quad biking on some of
the largest sand dunes in the world.
LOCATION: Far northwest
Namibia.
S E R R A C A F E M A C A M P
Ha rt ma nn Va ll ey
Game drives Boats Bird watching Swimming pool Game walks Quad bikesHartmann Valleys rocky terrain offers endless opportunities for striking photos.
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Out of the flat scrubland rises a gigantic 600-foot orange rock with sheer
sides and a flat top. This natural edifice, glowing gold in late afternoon sun, is the
astonishing Waterberg Plateau.
The Waterberg is a lost Eden with wild game roaming the lush tableland,
unable to escape down the steep sides (or through the fence guarding the one
manageable slope). It is as though time has stood still atop this plateau and,
although you may see only a few antelopes on a game drive, you just know a
leopard is looking down on you from a nearby tree.
318
Waterberg PlateauParkW A T E R B E R G P L A T E A U P A R K
Waterbergs fastest felines, cheetahs enjoy easy hunting on the plateau. Stan Sutn relaxes, seemingly unaware of the lawn mower nearby.
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319
Left homeless as a cub, this beautiful leopard was rescued by Africats; he now enjoys posing for photographers (in exchange for a nice chunk of antelope, naturally).
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320Cheetahs awaiting breakfast at Okonjima Camp gather for feeding to the delight of guests.
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321What a handsome couple! (The rest of his harem is just outside the frame of the photo, however. Lions do not mate for life.)
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322
Caraals purr when content, but growl, hiss or spit when threatened.
Porcupines are very shy; these nocturnal creatures are best seen during night game drives. Weight gain is the biggest hazard to safari life. Food is always excellent . . . and distressingly abundant.
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Okonjima lies nestled in the beauty of
the Omboroko Mountains and is home
of The Africat Foundation - famous for
research and rehabilitation of cheetahs
and leopards, who roam in the reserve.
At Okonjima you can get closer to these
beautiful creatures than you have ever
done before. Activities include the
very popular Cheetah Tracking Trail
where you participate in radio-tracking
the rehabilitated cheetahs on foot. You
can also visit the Cheetah Project
where youll get first-hand experience
of Africats work.
Leopard Viewing is from the safety
of a hide or game-viewing vehicle
and radio-collars also assist in tracking
them. There are guided and self-guided
walking trails and The Bushman Trail
lets you experience a day in the life
of the original hunter-gatherers of the
Kalahari.
Birding on foot or from a spacious
viewing hide allows you to spot some
of the 300 indigenous species in the
area. Night game watching brings to
light porcupines and other nocturnal
creatures.
Accommodation is in a choice of two
very different camps: Main Camp was
the original family farmhouse and has
ten comfortable double rooms and a
rustic dining area, all overlooking the
lush original garden and open fire where
everybody gathers in the evening.
The new Luxury Bush Camp has
eight chalets in a unique combination
of earthy ochre, clay walls and khaki-
green canvas, under a thatched roof.
Watch the well-frequented waterhole
or sit at your chalet and encounter avian
visitors to your own personal birdbath.
L O C A T I O N : 2 1/2 hours drive
north of Windhoek, in the Waterberg
Plateau region of Namibia.
O K O N J I M A C A M P - h o m e o f t h e A f r i c a t F o u n d a t i o n
Waterberg Plateau
Day & night gam e dri ves Bird watching Swimming pool Viewing hide Nature walks Educational center
323
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324
The Skeleton Coast seems to go on forever. This desolate stretch of coastline in northern Namibia is exquisitely beautiful, but can be deadly to ships.
Skeleton CoastS K E L E T O N C O A S T
The Skeleton Coast is awash with the ghosts of ships and sailors who came
to grief in the unforgiving Atlantic Ocean of Namibias northwest. This is one of
the most remote and wild coastlines in the world. Maritime remains litter the foggy
coastline and with each shipwreck engulfed in sand goes a gripping story of man
against nature. Nature usually wins!
2 6 - D A Y O R D E A L I N S H I P W R E C K R E S C U E
One tale of woe, wonder and perseverance is about the Dunedin Star that ran
aground in 1942 with 21 passengers and 85 crew. The rescue tug ended up on the
beach. A bomber supply airplane dispatched from Cape Town landed and promptly
got stuck in the sand. The second airplane wisely stayed in the air and dropped
food and water for the ever-increasing number of stranded people. The overland
operation got stuck just two miles from the group but eventually everybody was
conveyed south, where some were airlifted out and others continued overland to
Windhoek. They arrived 26 days after their ordeal began!
African stories such as these have always traditionally been passed down
through the generations by word of mouth; I have great memories of sitting around
evening campfires, enthralled by the ancient wisdom of a tribal chief. I guess this
could be called bush television, with visual images fueled by the flickering fire,
limited only by your imagination.
Today, the only way to reach this truly remote wilderness is to fly in on a
light aircraft, which is an adventure all of its own. The haunting beauty of sweeping
dunes, golden-walled canyons and great mountain ranges will become forever
etched in your memory.
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325
One of the unlucky ones: the rusting remains of this victim of an Atlantic Ocean storm will be just a memory in a few years.
The only seal indigenous to Southern Africa, Cape fur seals l ive in large colonies. Access to the Skeleton Coast is strictly via air; roads are nonexistent. The views are awesome.
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Welwitsia plant, one of Earths oldest inhabitants.
S K E L E T O N C O A S T C A M P
Sk e le to n Co as t
S A N D B O A R D I N G E L E P H A N T S
You may think that animals could not survive here but you would be wrong.
The famous desert elephants have become so adapted that they have been filmed
sliding down sand dunes like a snow-boarder. Desert-dwelling oryx are completely
at home here and giraffe, brown hyena, springbok, ostirch, rare black rhino and
even lion are found inland where riverine bush supports the herbivores and fresh
water can usually be found.
The singular ecosystem is dependent on the cold sea breeze from the
Antarctic Benguela current, which flows north up Namibias lengthy coastline. For
much of the year, but expecially in winter, the coast is shrouded in mist with a
strong westerly breeze taking the fog far inland. This moisture gives life to strange
desert plants like the unique living fossil plant welwitsia (below).
E X P E R I E N C E F E A R L E S S S O L I T U D E
By mid-morning the mist has cleared and you are witness to the timeless
beauty that only the Skeleton Coast can offer. Take advantage of the isolation to
attune yourself to ocean echoes and desert silence. There are few places on earth
in which to experience such fearless solitude, so get attuned with nature like never
before. Perhaps in Namibia you will meet yourself for the first time.
Skeleton Coast Camp and its 12 guests
have exclusive use of 600,000 acres
of one of our planets most desolate,
but beautiful places. The routine is
quite different from other camps; after
breakfast guests head out for the whole
day with a picnic lunch, for an ultimate
desert experience.
Accommodation is in 7 comfortable
safari tents with large en-suite
bathrooms. Meals are often taken
outside under an ancient leadwood
tree. This camp is for the adventurous
traveler who wants a taste of one of
the last truly wild and remote places
on Earth.
LOCATION: in the Skeleton Coast
Park, far north-west Namibia.
Day & night gam e dri ves Picnic lunches Nature walks Scenic flights
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Skeleton Coast Safaris has been
running since 1977 - over twenty-five
years - and is the original specialist
tour operator in the Skeleton Coast
area. There is quite simply no betterguide than one of the Schoeman
family, who for two generations have
been specializing in this remote and
unique place where many fear to tread.
The Schoeman name is well known as
author of numerous books on Namibia,
superb photographs seen worldwide
and of course guiding the intrepid
traveler into their favored piece of
pristine Namibian wilderness.
This extraordinary 4-day fly-and-
drive safari reveals the magnificent
untouched beauty of the Skeleton
Coast Park, Namib-Naukluft Park,
Damaraland and Kaokoland of
northwest Namibia. These are some
of the remotest and least visited (but
most fascinating) areas of Southern
Africa.
Cessna 210 aircraft posing as specialized
safari vehicles are synergistically used
with custom-built classic Landrovers
strategically parked at interesting and
fascinating spots. The airplane gives
you a birds-eye view of the spectacular
sites before sweeping down to get a
closer look. These unusual excursionsreveal diverse geological rock
formations, dunes and shipwrecks,
desert dwelling animals and interesting
ecological aspects of the desert.
You will be exclusively accommodated
in three fully equipped privately
owned, tented camps that comfortably
serve all your needs.
Each safari is hosted by a member
of the Schoeman family, who fulfills
the role of guide, pilot, driver and
host. This unique personal touch,
combined with the Schoemans
lifetime experience and passion for
this spectacular part of the world, has
gained them international recognition.
LOCATION: A fly-and-drive desert
safari in remote northwest Namibia.
S K E L E T O N C O A S T S A F A R I S
A uni qu e de se rt fl y- in ex per ie nce wi th th e Sc ho em ans
Sce nic dri ves Scenic flights Nature walks Visits to tribal village
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Swakopmund & WalvisBayS W A K O P M U N D & W A L V I S B A Y C O A S T L I N EYou do not expect to find a German town, complete with steeply pitched
roofs to let the snow slide off, in the heart of Africa, but this is exactly what
Swakopmund is. Known as Little Bavaria, for its stunning architecture, this
quaint place is the holiday resort town for Namibians and a base for adventuretrips and scenic flights along the coast and over the desert.
The ocean gives respite from inland heat with a sea breeze and coastal
fog, but the desert is not far away and has to be crossed to get from Windhoek to
Swakopmund - Namibias only two cities (which are tiny in American terms). But
the road is good and it only takes a little over three hours to drive. When I first
made this journey, in five hours I only saw three cars, one truck, a motorcyclist . . .
and a wagon pulled by donkey (I did stop to take pictures!).
S M E L L Y S E A L S A N D S L I M Y P L A N K T O N
It is worth driving north from Swakopmund on the straight sandswept
coastal road to see the spectacle of 100,000 Cape Fur Seals at Cape Cross Seal
Colony. Although fascinating to watch, I was finally overwhelmed by their guano-like smell and headed south (as further north leads only to the hostile and barren
Skeleton Coast).
South of Swakopmund, on the way to Walvis (Whale) Bay, are some huge
orange sand dunes where dune boarding and quad biking are favorite sports.
Personally, I prefer to watch the flamingos in the lagoon just south of town. While
the birds sift slimy plankton, I enjoy delicious giant garlic prawns from my superb
vantage point in the Raft Restaurant, high up on stilts, overlooking the lagoon.
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Beautiful downtown Swakopmund, the jumping-off point for endless adventure in Namibia. Cape fur seal, wearing eau de guano.
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Walvis Bay plays host to thousands of bright pink amingos, who get their distinctive coloring, suprisingly enough, from their dietary choices: crustaceans and plankton.
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Namib NaukluftParkN A M I B N A U K L U F T P A R K
S O S S U S V L E I - T H E L A N D O F G I A N T G L O W I N G D U N E S
Sossusvleis rich ochre sea of sand dunes is one of the most wondrous sights
in the world. Their feminine curves rise tantalizingly to over 1,000 ft (300 ft more
than their nearest rivals in Arabia), and just beg to be climbed barefoot. Dwarfed
by the sheer size and immensity of the dunes, my footprints look like insect trails,
and each step forward forms mini sand-slides.
A Z I L L I O N F R A G M E N T S O F G A R N E T S
Geologists say that this supreme desert, covering most of the Namib Naukluft
National Park, could be the oldest in the world. The older the dune, the brighter
the color from slow iron oxidization and a zillion minute fragments of garnets. The
spectacular colors vary from burnt orange through red to deepest mauve, creating an
earthy kaleidoscope of texture and hue.
In the Nama language, Namib means vast, and the Namib Naukluft Park
lives up to this reputation. It extends for about 300 miles along Namibias coast and
deep inland. Contrary to appearances, an amazing variety of wildlife has adapted to
live in this inhospitable place. There are lizards who only put two feet down at a
time and a beetle who leans forward to make droplets of dew run down grooves in
its body to its mouth. Apart from infrequent rains, these creatures rely on a regular
sea mist that rolls far inland.
I M M E A S U R A B L E S O L I T U D E
Visiting this remote region takes some perseverance, as it is almost 200 miles
from any main highway, so a fly-in safari is a good option. The trip is worth it as
the solitude is immeasurable, and your place in the great scheme of life takes on a
new perspective.
This desert gives you the perfect opportunity to become one with nature.
It has been my lifelong experience that the closer you are to the natural world,
the closer you are to your God. I guarantee you will find some inner peace in this
inspiring place.
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331
A hot-air balloon safari can enhance your appreciation of Namib Naukluft Park. Only from this height can one truly appreciate the uniqueness of this topography.
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332Inspiration is everywhere; Lisa Rigge nds potential in random patterns of rock and shadow.
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333Highest in the world, Namibias dunes rise dramatically over 1,000 feet above the surrounding plains. Buildings, vehicles, humans - here, all are dwarfed by nature.
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Sossusvlei Wilderness Camp is situatedclose to the highest sand dunes in the
world. The spectacle of changing
colors and the lonely oryx silhouetted
against red dunes is one that draws
photographers from around the world.
The camp is near the top of a mountain
and the nine guest rooms are built of
brick, rock, timber and thatch, each
with private plunge pool. The main
living area is under thatch with an
outdoor deck for dinner under the
stars.
Highlights include early morning gamedrives to the Sossusvlei dunes and
optional ballooning over the desert.
LOCATION: On a private reserve
in the Namib Desert, in south-west
Namibia.
S O S S U S V L E I W I L D E R N E S S C A M P
So ss us vl ei
Hot Air bal loon ing Day & night game drives Swimming pool Nature walks
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Sossusvleis sinuous dunes are so immense that full-grown trees seem tiny punctuation marks.
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Kulala Desert Lodge and Little Kulalaoffer heart-stopping desert scenery of
the famous red dunes of Sossusvlei.
Both lodges have thatched & canvas
chalets or Kulalas (chalets) with en-
suite bathrooms and showers set on
wooden platforms to provide maximum
airflow. Each room has a private rooftop
stargazing platform for incredible nights
watching shooting stars and satellites
track across the Milky Way.
On the edge of the oldest desert in the
world, wildlife is sparse but fascinating
in its struggle to survive the harshconditions. Experience the desert
scenery, wildlife and flora on game
drives and walks.
Early morning guided game drives
to the spectacular dunes are through
a private gate. Walks with incredible
views are also offered and night drives
with a spotlight reveal nocturnal
animals. For a truly unique experience
float over the magnificent sand dunes
in a hot air balloon followed by a
champagne breakfast wherever you
may land.
Kulala Tented Camp is built at thefoot of a mountain, within the oldest
desert in the world.
The comfortable tents are raised on
wooden decks and linked to the main
living area and pool by pathways.
The camp is ideal for guests on a
self-drive safari, although optional
excursions can be arranged including
visits to Sossusvlei, early morning
ballooning over the desert, guided
walks, and game drives to see the
animals of the desert.
LOCATION: All three Kulalaproperties lie in the heart of the Namib
Desert on a private reserve bordering
the Namib-Naukluft Park, Namibia.
K U L A L A D E S E R T L O D G E & L I T T L E K U L A L A
Sos su sv le i
K U L A L A T E N T E D C A M P
So ss us vl ei
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Swi mmi ng poo l Game walks Game drives Hot air ballooning Swimming pool Game walks Game drives Hot air ballooning
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One of the best preserved corners of wilderness left in the world.National Geographic Magazine
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