How To Prune Grapevines Part Three
Spurs & Spur Sites Spurs are located on
spur sites that are on the TOP of the cordon
SpursAre the canes that have
been cut to 2 nodes
Spurs & Spur Sites Spurs are located on
spur sites that are on the TOP of the cordon
SpursAre the canes that have
been cut to 2 node
Spur sites Are the older wood that
the spurs are attached to
Cordons Permanent arms run along the fruiting wires
Cordons Are canes that have not been removed but
become part of the permanent structure They do not become longer in length but they
do become wider in girth They can last for a number of years
Spurs are Count nodes That provide count shoots for the current
year But remember... Cane pruning also uses spurs to provide the
replacement canes for the following year Spurs should be left longer for less fruitful
varieties or shorter in the case of very fruitful varieties
Typical spur site
Typical spur site
Spur Sites Spur sites need to be carefully managed They can get killed off by: Pests, diseases and machinery
Loss of Spur Sites Loss of spur sites will result in a gap in the
canopy Careful management of each spur site is
very important in maintaining a healthy and productive cordon
A cordon with dead spur sites will need to be replaced as these sites will often not regenerate
Spur Pruning Usually pruned to two node spurs at each site The spur sites are spaced out on the tops of
cordons so that when they are pruned there will be a shoot density of 15 shoots per metre
The aim with spur pruning is to keep the spurs as close to the cordon as possible
The diagram below shows you how to achieve this
Cordon
This seasons canes
Last seasons spurSeasons
before spur
Which cane becomes the spur?
Which cane will keep the spur sit close to the
cordon?
The spur site was not correctly managed and this has resulted in an elongated spur that is now quite a distance away from the cordon
Other pruning Cuts Removing watershoots Renewing spur sites Replacing cordons
Removing Watershoots
This watershoot is not needed The spurs sites
are already well spaced
Try to remove it so it is flush with
the cordon
Removing Watershoots
Replacing Spur Sites
This Spur site is damaged
Try to leave a small mound that contains dormant buds
Replacing Spur Sites
A watershoot will burst and the new
spur site can be created
Replacing a Cordon
This cordon is diseased and a
new one needs to be established
This can be achieved with a watershoot
or a cane
It needs to be close to the
head and below the
fruiting wire
Remove the cordon till there is only clean wood
Replacing a Cordon
The watershoot is laid onto the wire and tied
down
Replacing a Cordon
Cutting a Spur Cut the spur 1.5 - 2 cm behind the
node/bud angled slightly away from the bud The angled cut avoids damaging the bud
and reduces the possibility of water and disease spores accumulating on the cut which could infect the wood
Cutting a Spur The cut is angled away from the
bud to avoid bud damage and to avoid water accumulation
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