wine journalMay/June 2014

A B C F I N E W I N E & S P I R I T S W I N E M A G A Z I N E

EverythingYou Need toKnow AboutRIESLING

Learn How to Taste Wine LIKE THE PROS

REDS CAN BE WARM WEATHER WINES, TOO!

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The ABC Fine Wine & Spirits Wine Journal is a bimonthly publication of ABC Fine Wine & Spirits. Copyright 2014 ABC Liquors, Inc. All rights reserved.

Hannah Grantz Editor hannahg@abcfws.com

Meghan Guarino Contributing Editor meghang@abcfws.com

Lorena Streeter Contributing Editor lorenas@abcfws.com

OUR WINE EXPERTS:

Ken Amendola kena@abcfws.com @abcwinekena

Kathleen Anderson kathleenr@abcfws.com @abcwinekat

Jim Greeley jamesg@abcfws.com @abcwinejimg

Shayne Hebert shayneh@abcfws.com @abcwineshayne

Atanas Nechkov atanasn@abcfws.com @abcwineatanas

Paul Quaglini paulq@abcfws.com @abcwinepaulq

Bill Stobbs wstobbs@abcfws.com @abcwinebills

If you would like to ensure you’re receiving the Wine Journal each time it’s published, send an email to Lorena Streeter (lorenas@abcfws.com) and we’ll add you to the “always mail” list.

Follow us on Twitter @abcwinecountry. We’re also blogging daily at blog.abcfws.com.

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SPRING IS IN THE AIR—WHAT’S IN YOUR GLASS?

SEAFOOD CAN BE THE BREAKFAST, LUNCH AND DINNER OF FLORIDIANS

Ken pairs his favorite white wines of the moment with local cuisine

LOOKING FOR A LIGHT AND FRESH LIBATION?

Atanas takes you on a journey through the Savoie region of France

EVER WONDERED HOW THE “EXPERTS” DRINK WINE?

Shayne gives a quick class in wine tasting

SYRAH, SIRAH, PETITE SIRAH… WHAT’S THE DIFFERENCE?

Jim offers some insight into the world of Syrah

IT HELPS TO BETTER UNDERSTAND WINE IF YOU’VE MADE YOUR OWN

Kathleen gives us the lowdown on what it’s like to work in a vineyard

WHO SAYS WARM WEATHER IS ALL ABOUT WHITE WINES?

Paul has a list of his top reds for the fast-approaching summer

WHY DON’T MORE PEOPLE DRINK RIESLING?

Bill assures us we don’t need to be intimidated by hard-to-read labels

A WINERY THAT WANTS TO “MAKE WINE YOU CAN DRINK WITH ANYTHING…”

Hannah talked to Sisto Tessari of Italy’s La Cappuccina Estate

IT IS POSSIBLE TO STEP AWAY FROM “THE USUAL” AND TRY SOMETHING NEW

Wine Consultant Bill Knowles gives a 3 minute education in wine

WINES TO WATCHWhy pick just one? We’re looking at 3 Vermentino selections

3 10

5 12

6 14158

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Food pairings, travel memories, and a lesson or two… Here are some stories on wine worth reading:

Ithought the warmer weather was never going to get here!! Even in sunny Florida we had to wait patiently for winter to

move along, so the weather I moved down here for could arrive. I can now store away my jacket, sweater and jeans for the next eight months and get back to Florida livin’.

One of my favorite things about residing in the Sunshine State: the never-ending opportunity to use my grill. That would include all matters of meat, be it pork, beef, chicken or others. But to me, Florida means seafood. We have an endless supply of so many different types of foods from the sea that only your imagination can keep you from a new idea for dinner each night—with a great glass of wine to go with it. I have a couple of wines that may be new to you, but that I think you might like next time you choose to put something from the ocean on your grill.

The first wine that comes to mind is from a somewhat unlikely place for most of those who would consider white wine their wine of choice: Rioja, Spain. This wine is one of my very favorite wines, and one I know you will enjoy as well. This white Rioja from Bodegas Baigorri, when matched with any

local, fresh, hot-off-the-grill seafood, will explode in your mouth and complement the dish as if they were made for each other. Steve Tanzer, one of the most highly respected critics of wine, gave this wine a 90-point rating, and when you taste it, you will see why. This wine will also pair quite well with Paella, that wonderful, traditional Spanish dish, though I like it more with foods that take on a smoky character from the grill. Try it both ways and see which you prefer.

And for those of you that prefer (insist) on drinking red wines, I have another wine I would recommend you to try next time you fire up your grill. This is not a traditional wine to serve with a piece of grilled salmon, but the Stepping Stone Merlot from Cornerstone Vineyards is a wine that I have really come to enjoy since we brought it on a few of months ago. I have had this Merlot a couple of times with a thick piece of grilled salmon and found it to be a terrific match. This is far more California Merlot than you are used to getting for only $16.99. The juicy Merlot expands in your mouth with big bold f lavors and just the right amount of smoky oak to complement the salmon. Serve this along with your favorite

grilled veggies and some wild rice, and I think you’ll agree with me on how well these go together.

Now that gril ling season is just getting under way, we will find many good warm-weather wines, but I think these two will get you started in the right direction. Whatever wines you choose, choose well and enjoy all the wonderful f lavors that summer brings.

K E N A M E N D O L A , N O R T H F L O R I D A W I N E S U P E R V I S O R

Seafood & Sips of Spring

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REDS

BARBER A • Agostino Pavia Barbera d’Asti Bricco Blina (pg 11) • Giorgi Costarosa Sangue Di Giuda (pg 11)

BARDOLINO • Giovanna Tantini Bardolino Rosso (pg 10)

CANNONAU • Santa Maria La Palma Cannonau (pg 10)

MERLOT • Stepping Stone (pg 3)

PETIT SIR AH • Caldwell Ranch Petite Sirah (pg 8) • High Valley Petite Sirah (pg 8) • Ranch Collection Petite Sirah (pg 8) • Seven Sinners Petite Sirah "The Ransom" (pg 8) • Stags’ Leap Winery Petite Sirah (pg 8) • Vigilance Vineyards Petite Sirah (pg 8)

RED BLEND • La Cappuccina Madégo Rosso (pg 14)

VALPOLICELLA • Nicolis Valpolicella (pg 11)

ROSÉ • Laetitia Brut Rosé (pg 9)

WHITES

RIOJA

• Bodegas Baigorri (pg 3)

SAVOIE • 2013 Apremont Cuvée Prestige (pg 5) • 2012 Chignin Bergeron (pg 5)

WHITE BLEND • La Cappuccina Nadia Bianco (pg 14)

SPARKLING • Laetitia Brut Rosé (pg 9) • Laetitia Harvest Moon Ranch Brut (pg 9)

Wine List

Vineyards above the village of Chignin in Savoie

My first taste of the wines from Savoie was in 1989 while working in one of the ski resorts in

Avoriaz in the French Alps. We used to call it ‘après-ski’ wine; the light, bright and refreshing mountain wines were very enjoyable and comforting right after a day on the ski slopes.

The mountain vineyards of Savoie, surrounded by alpine lakes and snow-capped peaks, make for some of the most spectacular sights in the wine world. The vineyards under the Vin de Savoie appellation are spread around a fairly large area and several communities but are small in surface. The one area that holds the best vineyards and produces the most exciting wines is located south of the town of Chambéry, in proximity of Lac de Bourget. Here we have the most important appellations of Savoie: Abymes, Apremont, Chignin and the Grand Cru of Chignin Bergeron.

A cataclysmic event shaped the geology of this area and made it quite unique: one of the world’s largest landslides in history! Mont Granier is a limestone mountain located between the departments of Savoie and Isère, with a fairly tall peak at an elevation of 1,933 meters (6,342 feet) above sea level. Its north face overlooks Chambéry. In the year 1248, on November 24th and 25th, a mass of limestone resting on marls slid into the valley, causing a massive landslide that destroyed seven villages and caused over 1,000 casualties. In fact, most of the vineyards of the appellations Abymes and Apremont lay on the site of the landslide.

Our wine team visited the area in June 2013 and was immediately captivated by the freshness and lightness of the Savoie wines, which are so popular that the limited production and big appetite of the ski resorts for the local wines make that more than 90% of the total production is consumed locally and only 2% is exported outside of France. High altitude, low alcohol, low calorie wines exhibiting

freshness and no oak-aging are becoming more and more popular and in demand.

This year ABC Fine Wine & Spirits has pioneered the introduction of two new-to-our-market wines from the Savoie region.

The first one is the 2012 Apremont Cuvée Prestige from Jean Perrier & Fils. Gilbert Perrier and his sons are the fifth and sixth generations to make wine in this picturesque alpine region. As the domain has slowly expanded, maintaining quality has always been their top priority. This tank fermented and aged Cuvée is 100% Jacquère grape, which is the most popular local variety, making up 80% of the plantings in the Apremont appellation. The wine is light- to medium-bodied, with bright minerality, fresh acidity and inviting aromas and f lavors of sweet citrus, star fruit and quince. Enjoy as aperitif, as well as with multitude of seafood dishes, mixed salads and fresh cheeses. This top quality wine is priced at only $12.99 making it one of the best values in white wine.

While the 2012 Apremont Cuvée Prestige captivated the team, it was another vineyard that was the most anticipated visit during the team’s trip to this picturesque appellation: Domaine les Cantates in the village of Chignin. On mountain slopes opposite of Mont Granier are located the 79 hectares of Grand Cru vineyards of Chignin Bergeron. Bergeron (from the name of the Bergeron apricot) is the local name for the Roussanne grape of the Rhône Valley. This domain, previously known under the name of Les Fils de René Quénard (the René Quénard family had farmed vineyards in Chignin for over 300 years) was purchased in 2008 by Pierre-Emmanuel Taittinger (Champagne Taittinger) and his wife Claire Taittinger, who’s a native of Savoie.

The Bergeron vineyards are located on south-southwest facing slopes of limestone and marl and are among the steepest in the world; in fact one of Domaine les Cantates vineyards may very well hold the record at

a 70 degree incline; the vineyard workers are roped when getting onto that one!

Domaine les Cantates owns 11 hectares of steep vineyards with full southern exposure. The grapes are hand-harvested and each parcel is vinified separately. In 2004 the domain was certified sustainable agriculture.

In the tasting room, our wine experts were immediately seduced by the surprisingly full-bodied and intensely f lavored 2012 Chignin Bergeron which was very much at odds with the usual image of light, delicate Savoie white wines. This tank fermented and aged wine delights with its creamy texture and pure and intense aromas and f lavors of apricots, pear, stone-fruit, spices and a touch of honey. Fresh aromas of field f lowers and apricot blossom linger on the long finish. The 2012 Chignin Bergeron from Domaine les Cantates is available in select ABC Fine Wine & Spirits stores for $17.99; a rare find and top quality wine not to be missed!

Santé!

A T A N A S N E C H K O V, C E N T R A L F L O R I D A W I N E S U P E R V I S O R

Vineyard of Chignin Bergeron

SAVORY SAVOIE WINES

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obody needs a fool-proof guide on how to taste; we all do it without thinking. Just take a bite, or a swig, and VOILA--you are tasting! This is how we know what we like and what we don’t, and this much I agree with. Where it gets a little tricky is in defining the taste, or relating the enjoyment to anyone else. See, I told you nobody needed a guide on this subject…why would anyone need to relate that information? Glad you asked!

Some of us need a guide. I do, my colleagues do, everyone else in our business does. Basic tasting requires no effort, and works for about 97% of the population, but in my line of work there is a huge difference between “tasting” and “drinking” and I do not see a need for a “drinking guide”. Drink what you like…but creating a “tasting guide”…now that I understand. You see, when you drink, that’s for you, based on your preferences, your taste. Same goes for me. But at work, when we taste, we are

looking at wine in an entirely different light, not based on our tastes, or even what we taste. We have to confuse it with science! We try and look at each sample and determine if it is a good example of what it says it is. We taste for things like fruitiness, acidity, sweetness, balance, structure and weight…plus alcohol, tannin, oak and even more subtle nuances and adjectives. Then we try and agree that this particular sample has what it is supposed to have, and if it does, it is good…even if we don’t personally like the wine! Crazy, huh? We are selecting them for you, not for us, so our opinion of the wine is immaterial, as long as the wine represents itself well.

So how do you taste? When you drink wine, are you one of those 97% (I make numbers up as I go) who drinks it and likes it because they liked it the last time they bought it? Or are you a “wine snob” who swirls your glass and sniffs its contents, making a production out of it? We do move through a process in judging wines, which involves swirling and sniffing, as you know. It also involves sight, looking at the color and clarity of the wine…should it look that way? Here is another “S” word: savoring, the act of actually tasting the wine. Here is where you will notice acids, sugars, weight, fruit, structure, all those other things we taste for. Then we often spit the remainder and wait for the finish and aftertaste. Is it balanced? We judge it on its components, not whether we like it or not. If we carried only what I like, we would have much smaller shops—that I am sure of!

So to understand the tasting process, the more you know, the better equipped to assess you are. The more wines you try, and remember, the more valuable your judgment, as you have a better idea of what it ‘should’ taste like versus what it actually tastes like! Big difference, sometimes. So the tasting process looks something like this:

-Read the label, glean as much information from it as you can, like variety, vintage, region and price.

-Pour the wine and give it a close look. Is it cloudy (bad)? What is the color—bright and

NS H A Y N E H E B E R T, C E N T R A L F L O R I D A W I N E S U P E R V I S O R

How Do You TASTE?

vibrant or old and brown? Neither is bad, but a young wine should be vibrant, and old wine should show its age.

-Swirl the wine and take in the aromas. Swirling allows oxygen to release aromatics in your glass and makes the wine’s smell rise from the glass. (Footnote on glassware below*) A very important step in evaluating, smell is two- thirds of your taste, so take your time here. Yes, all wines are fruity (all the ones that are made from grapes, anyway), but if your German Mosel Riesling smells like French oak, this is not a good sign. Here is where having a good recollection of all the other wines you have tasted is nice, so you know what a good Mosel Riesling should taste like.

-Sip, and not one of those tiny, like the coffee is too hot sips, I mean taste the wine. Get a good half ounce or better in there, swish it around, and let it work for a moment. It should touch every corner of your mouth, and you might even try (here is where it gets snobby, and sometimes sloppy) drawing in air from your pursed lips and aerating the wine in your mouth. Like swirling, this often increases the aromas and flavors.

-Swallow the wine…if you can! Why waste it, unless you happen to be next to Brad and me in Bordeaux, at 8 a.m., and there are 60 more wines coming at you fast. Spitting is better, nearly alleviating the alcohol intake, and allowing you to continue tasting other wines. Then wait, please. Give that wine a minute after it is gone. Is the flavor persistent? What impression does it leave you with? Tannic, tart, alcoholic, youthful, balanced? This minute is also very important in determining the wine’s overall quality. And sometimes I hear people say, “Now, don’t give me any wine that has an aftertaste…” Winemakers go to great lengths to get their wines to have aftertaste and staying power!

-Sum it up! Is this wine as it is supposed to be? Does it taste like the grape(s) it is made from? Is it authentic, correct and reflective of its origin?

Yes, sometimes it is much easier to drink wine than to taste it!

*A shard of glassware information: Glasses come in all shapes and sizes, and selecting the proper glass for the wine is not nearly as difficult as it seems. The reason there are different shapes is simply because some wines have more obvious aromas than others, while some are more delicate. The shape of the glass works to enhance the aromas. It works by determining the surface space of the liquid and moving aromas upward. So a delicate wine, say Pinot Noir, will be best served in a wide bowl shaped glass designed to capture as much of the delicate aromas as possible, then moving the aromas upward into a much smaller opening…conversely, a Bordeaux

or Cabernet stem will be taller and have a more gentle taper to it, since the big reds don’t lack for aromas, and those aromas will move upward to a wider opening. Stop in and browse the selection! Schott Zweisel makes some pretty top quality stems for ten bucks—that’s what I use at home.

Faulty towers…

A few things can ruin a wine, many times without being visible to the eye. I suppose many times, people drink the wine anyway, not realizing it was faulty, and just think they didn’t particularly like that one. There are a few maladies to watch for, since it’s believed that spoiled wines arise much more often than we think.

Corked? Yep, corked. A wine that is corked will smell just like a cork—dusty, musty moldy and little of the actual fruitiness the wine should have. It is a problem with the cork, not the wine, and another bottle of the same wine from the same case is most likely just fine. The cork producers are aware that their product can spoil more than 5% of all the wines sealed with their cork…now might be a good time to embrace the alternative enclosures!

Oxidized? The reason wine lasts in the bottle is because there is only a tiny bit of air in there with it, and the wine feeds off of this oxygen; this process is a wine aging. All wines age; most do not improve, however. If the cork allows oxygen into the bottle, possibly because the cork is cracked or brittle, the excess oxygen spoils the wine. The best way tell…an oxidized wine tastes like a dry Sherry. This oxidized character is wonderful in Sherry, ruinous in normal wines!

Maderized wines are ruined not by the effects of oxygen, but this time typically by heat or fluctuating temperatures. Madeira wine, from the island of Madeira off of Portugal’s coast, developed her unique style by shipping sweet wines on long voyages over 200 years ago; the fluctuating temperatures and excessive heat caramelizes sugars in the wine, like baking it would, and creates this unique wine. But in normal wines, which also contain unfermented sugars, this process is not good.

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WHEN SYRAH IS NOT PETITE

S ometimes the wine lexicon can seem confusing, and often unnecessarily so. For example, there are many grapes

masquerading in the marketplace under numerous different aliases, yet when taken at face value, they’re actually the same variety. Take Pinot Grigio for example: half the wine labels in the world list this grape under its popular name, yet many others refer to it as Pinot Gris, the correct botanical moniker. Ultimately, it’s the same grape, whatever it’s called.

Ditto for Shiraz and Syrah. However, you’d be barking up the wrong vine to consider Syrah and Petite Sirah the same old grape. They may sound similar (‘see-rah’), but there’s a reason the spelling is different. Against all logic, Petite Sirah is not a diminutive version of Syrah. It’s actually a cousin, created in the latter half of the 19th century when Syrah was crossbred in France with another Rhône grape, Peloursin.

Oddly, little wine to speak of is made from its home country nowadays. You’re more likely to find it in Australia, where it’s labeled under its true name, Durif—designated after the namesake French nurseryman who discovered it, Francois Durif. The variety was developed to resist powdery mildew, a grape malaise its parent Syrah was susceptible to. But while Durif did fare better against powdery mildew, its tight clusters were vulnerable to gray rot, making it unsuitable for making good wine in the humid southern Rhône.

Petite Sirah typically produces deep wines with ample color and extraction. These are big, full-f lavored versions meant to go with something grilled, especially beef or

lamb. The fruit profile is often reminiscent of blueberries or plums. It also has a hint of black pepper lurking about, something it shares in common with its Syrah kin.

And of course, there’s plenty of it grown today in California where the warm, dry climate is conducive to phenolic ripeness. You’ll find it planted in many suitable places there, including Napa Valley, Lodi and Lake County.

A conversation about Petite Sirah from Napa Valley could begin and end with Stags’ Leap Winery Petite Sirah ($35), a reference point for the variety in the North Coast’s most prestigious appellation. Its reputation stretches back to the 1970s, when past owner Carl Doumani first tapped the varietal potential of this little heralded red. Christophe Paubert, former Cellar Master at legendary Chateau d’Yquem in Sauternes, currently carries on the winemaking tradition at Stags’ Leap.

In the Lodi district, a place well-known for its old-vine Zinfandel, winemaker Charles Hendricks produces his delicious Seven Sinners Petite Sirah "The Ransom" ($18) from 50 year old vines. Aged 9 months in French alliers & Tronçais oak, it sports lush blackberry fruit and spice overtones.

Lake County, located just north of Napa Valley along the Mayacamas Mountains

is rich in volcanic sub-soils and diverse micro-climates. Sitting at a higher elevation than its southern neighbor, Lake County is an area that is ideal for yielding quality wine grapes, including Petite Sirah. Two of the best defined viticulture areas are Red Hills and High Valley, both located near the southern end of Clear Lake.

Within the High Valley AVA, you’ll find Shannon Ridge and High Valley Vineyards. Proprietor Clay Shannon is particularly adept with this variety, producing two distinctive offerings: a generous Ranch Collection Petite Sirah ($14) and the complex, single-vineyard Caldwell Ranch Petite Sirah ($22). High Valley Vineyards profiles the grape’s unabashedly powerful side with their High Valley Petite Sirah ($17).

Vigilance Vineyards is situated in Red Hills, adjacent to the Anderson Marsh nature preserve. Every wine at Vigilance is 100% sustainably farmed. Winemaker Mike Wood matures the fruit in his Vigilance Vineyards Petite Sirah ($15) for 18 months in French and American oak. The wine displays a silky elegance with lovely blueberry compote and vanilla notes.

Because of its natural tannin structure and acidity, Petite Sirah is a very good wine to cellar. The best examples can improve for a decade or more.

J I M G R E E L E Y, S O U T H W E S T F L O R I D A W I N E S U P E RV I S O R

High Valley AVA, Lake County

Petite Sirah at Shannon Ridge Winery

I f you don’t know me, you don’t know that I once worked at a tasting room in North Georgia for two seasons with a

wonderful family. The best things I have learned about wine and winemaking were at this site. It is a family business and they do every bit of the winemaking on site (including bottling). I have gotten to see the process from harvest-fermentation-bottling-and even labeling! The couple of weeks that I will be sharing with you will be the final few weeks of the sparkling wine process (known here as the traditional method, since we’re outside France). I chose this time as it starts at the beginning of the harvest (as these grapes are picked first) and can go on as long as two years before the process is complete. I will give the overview of the méthode champenoise (or traditional method) from the beginning and then get a bit more complicated near the end.

To begin, the meaning of méthode champenoise is that there is a secondary fermentation inside the bottle while aging. The vineyard I worked at only grew red wine grapes. They had an agreement with other local vineyards for their white wine grapes. Their grapes were harvested first, so there was a higher acidity to work with in the bottles. Once harvested, the grape press comes into play. This is also where I can talk about bringing this process back to something you can find at ABC. While my vineyard used a machine called the

Europress, which does everything you need for pressing Champagne grapes to their fullest and softest extent, there is another way—Laetitia Vineyards in Arroyo Grande Valley have on their site the only (yes, I said only) real wooden French Champagne press in North America. Both will do about the same thing but there is so much more history in the wooden press. After the pressing of the fruit and primary fermentation, blended wine, yeast and sugar are added to the bottle (liqueur de triage) then topped with a star cap.

The wait then comes as the bottles are placed on their side for 6-18 months. After the wait is over, the riddling comes into play. Some places have machines that riddle. My vineyard had it all done by hand. Riddling happens every day. There is a quarter turn per bottle, per day, for 1-2 months. This gives the time to get the yeast into the neck of the bottle. The scary part is after the riddling (that sounds like a horror movie) but while the yeast is in the neck, the next part of the process is to disgorge. This is when we get to freeze the neck of the bottle and have the icy yeast pop out of the bottle, with this you also lose a bit of your liquid. I was turned away the first year they did this, as the yeast can pop out at very high speeds.

After this process is over there is a small addition to the wine in the bottle, as you dolose some in the disgorge process. This

is called dosage…here is where you decide if it will be brut, demi sec, or other. You can recap, wait a week and drink away!

Now, a difference that we had at our vineyard was that we kept the star clasp on the finished product and we hand wax dipped all of our bottles. This is the personal part…wax stinks! It would take us a few good weeks to complete the waxing and for that entire time we couldn’t open the tasting room for the smell. As beautiful as it looks, I don’t think I will ever forget that smell! Now, you may not be able to find that particular sparkling using the traditional method unless you visit North Georgia, but come on into ANY ABC to find our Laetitia Harvest Moon Ranch Brut, and now Laetitia Brut Rosé. Both are done in this method, without the hassle of the wax.

K A T H L E E N A N D E R S O N , N O R T H W E S T F L O R I D A W I N E S U P E R V I S O R

Life in the VINEYEARD

Wood Champagne press at Laetitia Vineyard & Winery

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pring is here and summer is fast approaching. For Florida wine lovers, that means it’s time to think drinkability and refreshment when making a wine selection. It’s only natural to consider a nicely chilled white wine for our climate—but many of us, myself included, still like to drink red wine throughout the heat and humidity of the coming season.

I love a big powerful Brunello, Barolo, California Cabernet or classic Bordeaux, but as the temperatures rise I find I get much more enjoyment drinking lighter

bodied reds that are lower in alcohol, unoaked or lightly oaked, and have relatively high acidity—adding to their freshness. Most of these lighter bodied reds taste even better with a slight chill. When popped in the refrigerator for 20-30 minutes before serving, these wines are sure winners for your warm weather dinner table.

The following are a few of my favorite warm weather reds.

iovanna Tantini Bardolino Rosso. The vineyards of Bardolino cover the hilly area on the south eastern shores of Lake Garda. If you think of Bardolino only as a wine served by the carafe in Italian/American restaurants, think again. Giovanna’s Bardolino is typically light in color and light-to medium-bodied, but has loads of personality and structure.

anta Maria La Palma Cannonau. Cannonau (aka Grenache) has been touted as one of the best wines on the planet for longevity. The magic comes from the wine’s dark skin and seeds that are rich in polyphenols, a type of antioxidant. I’m grateful for the health benefits—but I like this wine more for its juicy raspberry, crushed f loral notes and silky tannins. A perfect example of a sophisticated, easy drinking wine for the season.

G S

RefreshingI TA L I A N R E D S FOR SU M M E R

SP A U L Q U A G L I N I , S O U T H E A S T F L O R I D A W I N E S U P E R V I S O R

As we roll into summer we tend to eat lighter and, in turn, drink lighter, fresher wines. Don’t let Florida’s sticky weather prevent you from enjoying a glass of red wine on the patio. I encourage you to take my suggestions and kick back with one of these delightful, aromatic, fresh reds. You won’t be disappointed.

iorgi Costarosa Sangue Di Giuda. This wine needs little introduction as it has become one of the most popular wines with our guests. Yes, it is slightly sweet and has a bit of sparkle, but don’t let that fool you into thinking this is not a seriously made wine. The Giorgi family has been producing top quality wines in Italy for more than 130 years. Costarossa is the quintessential summertime red with wonderful aromatics and bright fruit f lavors.

gostino Pavia Barbera d’Asti Bricco Blina. This small family run estate is located in the heart of the Barbera d’Asti production area. Serious, age worthy Barbera is produced at the winery (Moliss and Marescialla), but the entry level wine, Bricco Blina, is a delight to drink anytime. Aged in stainless steel to preserve the aromas of Barbera d’Asti, it shows bright raspberry and cranberry f lavors with good depth and concentration along with fresh acidity.

icolis Valpolicella. We travel back to the Veneto for our next selection. The Nicolis family has been producing wine in the region since 1951. Most of the buzz from this winery is centered on their highly rated Amarone and Ripasso wines, however the basic Valpolicella is not to be missed. Put away the Amarone and Ripasso until cooler weather returns and enjoy this fruit driven, fragrant wine that offers tangy cherry aromas, medium body and refreshing acidity.

G

A N

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When it comes to the average American wine drinker, it seems that Riesling gets l it t le or no

respect. And it is diff icult, given its appeal, to understand why.

At one end of the spectrum, you would think that novice wine drinkers, who usually veer toward sweeter wines, would lap this stuff up. But they don’t.

And at the other end, with so many wine professionals around the world declaring Riesling to be their white varietal of choice because of its classic style and its versatility, you would think that wine-savvy shoppers would take this information to heart and make Riesling a huge seller. But, by and large, they don’t.

The problem, it seems, is twofold. First and most unfortunate, Riesling is often thought to be a very cheap and basic wine, which it occasionally can be. But so can any other

varietal you care to name. Secondly, the largest producer of Riesling is Germany and, again unfortunately, German wine labels can be very daunting to the uninitiated—often written in a forbidding gothic font and with long, difficult-to-pronounce vineyard names, where one single word can make the difference between dry and sweet. It’s enough to drive most people to Moscato or Pinot Grigio! Add to this the perception that Riesling is chief ly drunk by little old men in Tyrolese hats and lederhosen and you have a marketing nightmare.

And nothing could be farther from the truth! Riesling is one of the classic and most noble wines in the world, with a beautifully forged balance between fruit and acidity. It is a wine of great diversity, running the gamut from bone dry to lusciously sweet and everything in between. And because it is so versatile it stands to reason that it can pair beautifully with so many different foods—fish and shellfish, poultry, ham, cheese, fruit, picnic lunches, Asian and spicy cuisine. If you have any doubts about this, try an off-dry Riesling the next time you have lobster tail!

A good Riesling can age longer than many other white wines, too—sometimes for several decades. And when you compare it in price with the great white wines of Bordeaux or Burgundy, a quality Riesling can come relatively inexpensive.

Although Germany is the traditional heart and home of Riesling, there are also world class Rieslings from Alsace, from Washington State and California, from Austria, New Zealand and northern Italy. On a recent

trip down under I was surprised to find the Aussies were absolutely gaga about their own dry Riesling—and eminently delicious it was too!

If you doubt the veracity of all I have said, try some. Pick up a good bottle of Riesling, pour a glass for yourself and your friends, and make a toast—to Riesling with respect. I can guarantee that if you’re like me that respect will soon turn into love.

B I L L S T O B B S , W E S T F L O R I D A W I N E S U P E R V I S O R

To Riesling… WITH RESPECT

My Riesling Picks

Vineyards above Sigolsheim, Alsace, France

The steep slopes of Riesling above Piesport, Mosel

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Located in Soave, Italy, just outside Verona, are the beautiful vineyards of La Cappuccina Estate—run by three siblings who are in the

third generation of winemakers: Pietro, Sisto and Elena Tessari. I had the pleasure of sitting down to chat with Sisto (an agronomist and representative for export markets) at the conclusion of ABC’s Italian Winemakers’ Tour a few weeks back, and the enchantment of his La Cappuccina story enticed me to look further.

Since 1890, the Tessari family has been producing wine at La Cappuccina Estate, but it has been since 1985 when the team encountered a problem with frost and, in order to revive a vine, decided to adopt organic production methods. “All chemical treatments have been banned in order to guarantee healthier, more natural products and greater respect for the environment,” which contributed to the family’s overall quest for quality. Sisto said they want to “make wine you can drink with anything… with good quality grapes comes good quality wine.” One of those good quality wines that is brand new to ABC’s shelves, and the ideal summertime wine for Floridians, is Nadia Bianco ($10).

Nadia Bianco is named for Nadia Galati of Alberello Imports, who is responsible for importing La Cappuccina, among many other terrific Italian wines, to us in the Sunshine State. Galati said of this blend, “La Capuccina is a pioneer in organically grown grapes, and since they only grow organic, Nadia Bianco is, of course, organic, but doesn’t have the

certification. I asked Sisto to make a blend of 80% Garganega that gives a nice acidity, making the wine crisp and refreshing with citrus notes—with 20% Sauvignon blanc that makes the wine very soft and very fruity—like apricots, peach and grapefruit—with a long, soft, fruity finish.” Only the best bunches of Garganega and Sauvignon (picked in mid-September) are used, after evaluating the ripeness and health of the grapes. After de-stemming, maceration on the skins and

soft pressing, the must is given a cold, static settling. The wine is aged on its lees in stainless steel tanks until late spring.

La Cappuccina Madégo Rosso ($14) is a blend of 70% cabernet sauvignon, 15% merlot and 15% cabernet franc that was given an 89 rating from I Vini Di Veronelli 2014. The wine maintains fruit, but gets a little roundness from the oak aging. This is a full-bodied red whose dominant note is the vegetal quality that is typical of the varieties from which it is made, but whose appeal also lies in its refined and well-integrated aromas deriving from the oak. Where the vines are planted today there was once alfalfa, and its cutting—in the dialect of the surrounding area—is referred to as “madégo.”

In addition to the care and quality that goes into every one of La Cappuccina’s wines, there is history. It is perhaps the history of the estate that provides the feel of romance and enchantment in every bottle. La Cappuccina’s vineyards sit just above the Via Postumia, which was constructed by the Roman legions to connect Verona with northern Europe. Here, the cuttings of Grecanica and Trebulanum from Magna Graecia lived through the care of the Etruscans, and then the Romans, so that now Garganega may still represent 70% if La Cappuccina’s vines. The Capuchin monks in the Soave area kept up with the vines and “gave life” to the Garganega grape— this grape that today makes up 80% of Nadia Bianco.

La Cappuccina

H A N N A H G R A N T Z

Sisto Tessario at La Cappuccina’s Fontego Vineyard

Walking into an ABC, supermarket or any liquor store can be intimidating. All those wines

to choose from, but what to do? As a wine consultant, I see and hear the same thing every day... “Nope, just looking.” Then, the guest picks up the old go-to. Usually a mediocre name brand or sometimes a very well respected name brand, but not necessarily a good vintage—or maybe a vintage that is not ready to drink yet. The mass consumers of wine who may have just the tiniest bit of wine knowledge grab what they think is good, heard was good or maybe something that’s simply popular. I wish these people would give me three minutes to educate them. Well, here goes my three minutes…

So, you know that you like a very popular Chardonnay from, say… Sonoma, California, in fact, that’s all you drink. Every week for the past 10 years. Surely your palate noticed that each year tasted at least a little bit different? Maybe you also know that, in general, California Chards are not meant to age well, so going back 3 years maximum is a good rule. So now we have determined that you like 2011 Chards from Sonoma. Why not

try some different ones? There are many great options available in the $13-30 price range. Go for it!

Moving on. You love a good Napa Cab. Have no problem paying $70 for one of those name brands that sell themselves. Do yourself a favor, Google Napa vintages, or ask your fabulously informative ABC wine consultant, and he or she will tell you that 2007 was an amazing year. As was 2008. 2009 wines matured early in the bottle and are drinking great now and for years to come. So why are you buying that popular $65 Cab from 2011??? It’s not that great yet… maybe in 3 years! Browse the shelves and see what’s available in your price point from 2007, 2008 or 2009. I bet you’ll find your new favorite!

You know I have to touch on Italian Pinot Grigios. Yes, a certain name brand put this wine on the market, but there are truly some amazing wines out there for less money. And did you know that Pinot Grigio is also called Pinot Gris in certain areas? Put down that

old standby that has not been good since 1987 and try something new. Maybe a Pinot Gris from Oregon or Alsace, France. Both regions are known for this varietal. They are delish and affordable.

So, my wine loving friends, my three minutes are up. Thanks for listening to me and I hope you take this information, head out and begin to explore the wonderful world of wine. It’s not as intimidating as you may think. In fact, it’s an amazing adventure not just for your palate, but all your senses! Enjoy.

B I L L K N O W L E S , B O C A R A T O N W I N E C O N S U L T A N T

3 MINUTEWine Education

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8989 South Orange Ave.Orlando, Florida 32824

W I N E T O W A T C H :

VERMENTINO O U R P I C K S :

Aragosta Vermentino di Sardegna DOC, Acquagiusta Bianco Vermentino, Querciarossa Vermentino

B E S T T O D R I N K W I T H :

grilled fish and shellfish

especially oystersF L A V O R :

fresh pearsCRISP APPLES, MELON

B O D Y :

MEDIUM with vibrant acidity

R E G I O N :

ITALYFRANCE

SPAIN

C O L O R :

SOFT YELLOW with the occasional

GREEN TINT A R O M A :

WHITE FLOWERS cool white fruitsand citrus

F I N I S H :

REFRESHINGAND CRISP