james halliday’s

cocktails and foodtogether at last

JAMES on nEw wAvE chardonnay

touringsouth africa what

makes good wine good

whAt to drink with An

indiAn fEASt

WinE

and sPicE

o v E r 2 5 0 w i n E S r E v i E w E d

c o m p a n i o n

hotlist

Hunter

Valley

r 2 5 0 w i nr 2 5 0 w i nr 2 5 0 w i nr 2 5 0 w i nr 2 5 0 w i nr 2 5 0 w i n E SE SE S rr EE v iv iv i EE ww EE ddjames halliday’s

cocktails nd food

together

vEchardonnaychardonnaychardonna

touringsouth africa what

makes good wine good

whAt to At to Adrink with An

indiAn fEASt

WinE and

sPicE

hotlist

Hunter

Valley

c o m p a n i o n

james halliday’s o vo vo v EE r 2 5 0 w i nr 2 5 0 w i nr 2 5 0 w i nr 2 5 0 w i n

AMAzing winE, Stunning vAluEFOR & AGAINST NZ vS AuSSIe SAuv BLANC

pluS nebbiolo HOPPy BeerS

Winemaker

nick Farr win a hunter

getaway

Jam

es

Ha

ll

ida

y’s

win

e c

om

pa

nio

n • s

hir

az

• 60

gr

ea

t r

ed

s • w

ine

an

d s

pic

e • h

un

te

r V

al

le

y • c

oc

kt

ail

s a

nd

fo

od

• ne

bb

iol

o

00

4 JU

n/JU

l 2

012

why we love shiraz

samPle only

great reds6060

we reveal the team’S

tOP PickS

UP

FR

ON

T

CO

NT

EN

TS

04

Regulars

Welcome 6Letters 8News 10Events 14Q&A 16For & Against 18Bin End 130

DRINK 22 What makes a wine good? We set out to find the answer

26 Shiraz It’s still Australia’s favourite red wine

42 My Cellar Writer John Birmingham’s top wines

44 Hops in brewing The varieties making exciting beer

54 James Halliday on... The evolution of chardonnay

59 Nebbiolo A surprisingly food-friendly, big red

62 Memories of great wine Wine writer Max Allen on his

life-changing trip and bargain find

48Son of A GunWe chat to winemaker Nick Farr who’s following in his father’s footsteps.

IN THIS ISSUEJunE/ July

1122 Ben Edwards on imports

• 50 international wines,

including Italian nebbiolo

and some South African

wines to tie into our stories.

106 James Halliday’s tasting notes

•Ratings and reviews for

100 current Aussie releases

•50greatwinesfromAustralian Wine Companion 2012, including nebbiolo, shiraz and semillon.

200 TASTInG noTES

C

ON

TE

NT

S04

Cover image / iStockphoto

JAMES HALLIDAY’S

COCKTAILS AND FOODTOGETHER AT LAST

JAMES ONNEW WAVE CHARDONNAY

TOURINGSOUTH AFRICA WHAT

MAKES GOOD WINE GOOD

WHAT TO DRINK WITH AN

INDIAN FEAST

WINE AND

SPICE

WHY WE LOVE SHIRAZ

O V E R 2 5 0 W I N E S R E V I E W E D

C O M P A N I O N

HOTLIST

HUNTER

VALLEY

O V E R 2 5 0 W I N E S R E V I E W E DO V E R 2 5 0 W I N E S R E V I E W E DJAMES HALLIDAY’S

COCKTAILS AND FOODTOGETHER

NEW WAVECHARDONNAYCHARDONNAYCHARDONNA

TOURINGSOUTH AFRICA WHAT

MAKES GOOD WINE GOOD

WHAT TO DRINK WITH AN

INDIAN FEAST

WINE AND

SPICE

WHY WE LOVE SHIRAZ

HOTLIST

HUNTER

VALLEY

C O M P A N I O N

JAMES HALLIDAY’S O V E R 2 5 0 W I N E S R E V I E W E DO V E R 2 5 0 W I N E S R E V I E W E D

AMAZING WINE,STUNNING VALUEFOR & AGAINST NZ VS AUSSIE SAUV BLANC

PLUS NEBBIOLO HOPPY BEERS

WINEMAKER NICK FARR

WIN A HUNTER GETAWAY

JAM

ES

HA

LL

IDA

Y’S

WIN

E C

OM

PA

NIO

N • S

HIR

AZ

• SO

UT

H A

FR

ICA

• JAM

ES

ON

CH

AR

DO

NN

AY

• TH

E H

UN

TE

R V

AL

LE

Y • IN

DIA

N • C

OC

KT

AIL

S0

04

JUN

/JUL

20

12

GREATREDS6060

WE REVEAL THE TEAM’S

TOP PICKS

WC_01_WINEcovers.indd 2 11/04/12 8:56 AM

60

JUN

/JU

L 2

012

ww

w.w

inec

om

pan

ion

.co

m.a

u

31 SPECIAL FEATURE

GREAT REDS

TRAVEL 84 South Africa’s

Cape Winelands Discover stunning wines, food and

adventure – and incredible value

90 The Hunter Valley, NSW This long-established wine region is the

perfect haven for wine and food lovers

97 Hunter Valley treats Just a handful of the region’s

best to put on the itinerary.

Hunter Valley treatsJust a handful of the region’s best to put on the itinerary.

This long-established wine region is the perfect haven for wine and food lovers

See if you agree with James, Ben and Campbell’s selections

EAT 66 Wine and spice Recreate our Indian banquet,

complete with matching wines

73 Dining review Delicious food and beer awaits at

Bootleg Brewery in Margaret River

74 Winery chef Meet Zac Ronayne from Petaluma’s

Bridgewater Mill in the Adelaide Hills

77 Matching food to cocktails Our specially designed three-course

meal pairs brilliantly with these warming cocktails

88

46

30

66

84

59

26

05Contributors

Katrina MeyninK

HarsHal sHaH

Grant DoDD

Katrina has developed the Indian-inspired recipes in this issue, which have been designed to be enjoyed as a banquet between friends – the perfect way to beat the chill. She is a freelance food writer and released her first cookbook, Kitchen Coquette, late last year, winning Best First Cookbook (Australia) at the World Gourmand Food Awards.

Writer South Africa {p84}

Sommelier and wine consultantSpice it up {p66}

Food writerSpice it up {p66}

Harshal grew up in Sydney, where he was a sommelier before moving to Delhi, India, five years ago. Now a wine consultant to high-end hotels and other clients, he is also studying to become a Master of Wine. Harshal has provided some inspiring wine matches for our Indian banquet, proving wine and spice can work together beautifully.

Former golf pro Grant fell so hard for wine that he bought a share in a winery. He lives near the Hunter Valley in NSW but when he’s not commentating golf for ESPN and Network TEN you’ll often find him in South Africa where he’s a partner in Stellenbosch-based winery Haskell Vineyards. Grant’s also a columnist and wine writer for Australian Golf Digest and co-authored the book Barossa Wine Traveller.

i don’t want tohavE to squint or um and ah or bE talkEd into liking it; i want to takE a swig and think, Yep, that wine’s a beautY.

UP

FR

ON

T

WE

LCO

ME

06

I’ll never forget my first really spicy meal. A friend of my dad’s ran an Indian restaurant and for years, Dad had been trying to convince our family to visit. We – mostly my brother and me – were dead against it and as we all know, it’s the kids who hold the power. So we never dined there as a family.

But when I turned 16, I called on the connection to land a part-time job at this restaurant. The tradition was that during a lull in service, staff would be fed. I was afraid of this; to this point, Keen’s curried sausages was the closest I’d come to spice. Oh no, I’d just eaten, I just didn’t feel hungry for some reason, I’ve just converted to the dietary theories of Pritikin... I tried them all and the owners just smiled and said, “It’s not as scary as you think”.

They served me a bowl of lamb curry, rice with peas, a dipping bowl of raita and naan peeled straight from the wall of the tandoor. The smell of it – well, maybe I was a little peckish after all.

I looked. I pushed some lamb pieces around. I blew and then I took the plunge.The spice wasn’t just heat. It didn’t just burn a hole in your tongue, it spread out sideways. The flavour was mouth-filling in a no-escape kind of way. I touched my forehead and it was clammy. It wasn’t just food; it was an invasion. I was about to run screaming from the room when a funny thing happened; I suddenly realised that both the flavours and the experience were enjoyable.

I ended up working in this restaurant, off and on, for 10 years. I used to say to the owners, “I’m not working for the money anymore, I’m working for the food”.

Later – after I’d fallen madly in love with wine – I remember lashing out on a bottle of Penfolds Bin 28 Shiraz and really looking forward to bringing these two loves – of spicy food and red wine – together. It was a Friday night and I’d booked the restaurant for 6pm, bang on opening. I couldn’t wait. I was excited. I poured the wine and it tasted delicious – until the food came out. Suddenly it tasted sour and hard and unpleasant. I’ve never been a big fan of food- and wine-matching but clearly if you get it badly wrong, it’s not pretty.

It’s one of the main themes running through this issue, as it should be. The incredibly food-friendly nebbiolo; wonderful food and wine touring in South Africa; a profile on pinot noir specialist (duck, anyone?) Nick Farr; and yep, some wine and drink matches with spicy food. Though just quietly, our hand-selected 60 great reds might be worth a look too. Enjoy!

campbell mattinsonEditor

I ended up working in this restaurant, I ended up working in this restaurant,

to our to ourwelcome JUNe/JUlY issUe

Founder & author, australian Wine Companion

James Halliday

editor Campbell Mattinson

managing editor Amelia Ball

publisher Simon McKeown

Contributing Writers Max Allen, Gee David, Grant Dodd, Ben Edwards,

Andrea Frost, James Halliday, Fiona Killman, Katrina Meynink, Sonia Paterson, Harshal Shah,

James Smith, Tyson Stelzer, Nick Stock, Emma Ventura

editorial enQuiries03 8520 6444

mail@winecompanion.com.au

art direCtor Dallas Budde

design Dallas Budde, Nigel Tan

digital (ipad) production Dallas Budde, Nigel Tan, Vaughan Mossop

Contributing photographers Catherine Sutherland, Vincent Long

David Hannah, Jed Soane, Visual Thing

illustration Tanya Cooper

advertising enQuiries03 8520 6444

national advertising direCtorTracey Dwyer

traceydwyer@hardiegrant.com.au

senior aCCount managerAnnie Clemenger

annieclemenger@hardiegrant.com.au

aCCount exeCutiveBonnie Jacks

bonniejacks@hardiegrant.com.au

advertising Coordinator Josie De Sousa-Reay

pre-press Splitting Image Colour

print Offset Alpine

PuBLISHED By HARDIE GRANT MAGAzINES

managing direCtor Fiona Hardie melbourne

Ground Level, Building 1, 658 Church Street, Richmond VIC 3121 tel: (03) 8520 6444 fax: (03) 8520 6422

Cover price is recommended only.

While every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of

information in this magazine, no responsibility can be accepted by the publisher for errors or omissions, and in particular

no responsibility can be accepted for the quality of goods and

services supplied by advertisers, prices quoted or printers’ errors.

All material copyright © 2012 to Hardie Grant Magazines. All rights reserved. Reproduction

in whole or in part either electronically or conventionally

without the written permissionof the publisher is strictly prohibited.

*Gourmand World Cookbook Awards.

PEFC CertifiedThis product is from sustainably managed forests and controlled sources

Recognised in Australia through the Australian Forestry Standardwww.pefc.org.au

While every effort has been made

no responsibility can be accepted

services supplied by advertisers, prices quoted or printers’ errors.

electronically or conventionally without the written permissionof

the publisher is strictly prohibited.son of a gun / p48Nick Farr has been doing his ownwinemaking thing since he was 21,as Campbell reveals.

spice it up / p66

Our Indian feast shows you just

how well some wines can work when

paired with aromatics and spice.

60 great reds / p31special FeatUReJames, Ben and Campbell haveeach chosen 20 great reds thatare well worth seeking out.

658 Church Street, Richmond VIC 3121 tel: (03) 8520 6444 fax: (03) 8520 6422

wiNebookpublis herof theyear *

658 Church Street, Richmond VIC 3121 tel: (03) 8520 6444 fax: (03) 8520 6422 also

availableon

ipad

Subscribe to

SIX ISSUES for only

$24.9999 FREE SAMPLEISSUEAvailable now

Search for Wine Companion magazine in iTunes and download the app for free to see our sample issue.

Full version iPad editions start from just $7.49.

WC_30_Ipad Subs.indd 30 11/04/12 1:15 PM

IWORDS // ANDREA FROST

ILLUSTRATION TANYA COOPER

This kind of question calls for a snappy quip and I suspect, also a remarkable wine recommendation so extraordinary that when the bottle is opened it launches the first firework of a spectacular life-long show. Not that many such wines or quips exist. And anyway, a good wine according to what? What do you normally drink? What do you like? At what price point? What food do you like?

Most other specialists can provide a number of options relating to their own field. Ask a travel agent where to go on holiday and they will send you ideas that are bang on brief. Food people are always ready with suggestions too. And sure, I can tell you some good wines I have recently tried, but this fundamental question always seems bigger than that, so I set out to find the answer.

What the Wine judge saysWho better to ask what makes a good wine “good” than someone who judges this very thing. Iain Riggs, Brokenwood’s managing director and chief winemaker, is also the chairman of judges at the Sydney Royal Wine Show. He says they use a set of parameters to judge not only whether a wine is good, but also how good. According to Iain, these factors include the appropriate tinges and hues, an aroma indicative of the wine’s style, plus oak use that is supporting, integrated and the correct type for the wine. Further attributes include a well-balanced palate and tannins, lack of bitterness and a long, pleasing after-taste. Wines should also show all the traits of their variety and region. That is, a Barossa shiraz should taste like a Barossa shiraz, even if it’s a good imitation of something else.

As you’d expect, gold-medal and trophy wines need to go that bit further. “[They] have to have an extra level of quality. More finesse, better structure and better finish,” Iain says. But even with such clear parameters, there are still grey areas. For instance, can a wine be good quality and faulty at once? It’s a discussion more recently arising from the increasingly applied whole-bunch winemaking technique of crushing not just the grapes but the stems too, particularly in shiraz and pinot noir. “Traditionalists, generally from warmer regions, see [the flavours from grape stems] as an unripe character in shiraz,” Iain says. “Young winemakers in cooler regions see it as complexity and as a way

t comes when you least expect it. There you are, chatting in a circle, drink in hand, talking to someone new. They seem nice, you’re in the

middle of a conversation and then... “Oh, you write about wine? You’d know what a good wine

is then?” And suddenly you’re shaking your head and checking among the haze for an appropriate answer.

What makes a wine “good”? Is that like asking for your favourite movie of all-time? It would help if it really was the easiest question for a wine person to counter. People ask it all the time as if they think there’s a secret room that holds all of wine’s answers, written on the walls like the alphabet and times tables. ➺JU

N /

JUL

20

12

w

ww

.win

eco

mp

anio

n.c

om

.au

what makes good

wine good?

ThE EASiEST quESTiONS CAN SOmETimES bE ThE hARDEST TO

ANSwER, buT ThAT hASN’T STOPPED uS FROm TRYiNg TO DETERmiNE whAT

ExACTlY mAkES A wiNE gOOD.

good wine22

We can never knoW for certain that something is good. it is still a matter of taste

We can never knoWe can never kno

of tasteof tasteof taste

23

1 Balance the flavour of the cheese with that of the wine. For example, the stronger and more mature the cheese, the richer and heavier the wine should be. The whiter and fresher the cheese, the crisper and fruitier the wine should be.

2 Sweetness in wine counter-balances the salt in cheese, which is why blue cheese partners so well with dessert and fortified wines.

Ueli’s tips

for matching wine with cheese

3 Perfumed or floral reds can be too overpowering with cheese, as are heavy tannic wines, which tend to steal the nutty richness of the cheese.

4 Generally speaking, if you had to select just one grape variety over any other to have with a cheese board, the best wine is a pinot noir or a crisp white.

5 Experiment with cheese and wine matching to discover your own preferences.

A KING ISLAND DAIRY PRoMotIoN

www.kidairy.com.au for entertaining tips and recipes, visit www.facebook.com/KingislandDairy

Meet Ueli Berger

Swiss-born Ueli was destined to make cheese. The grandson of a cheesemaker and the son of a dairy farmer, he has an inexhaustible passion for cheesemaking. After studying the craft in Switzerland, Ueli was chosen to work for an Australian cheese company. His fondness for the country saw him settle in Tasmania before moving to King Island in 1998. He became King Island Dairy’s head cheesemaker and it is under his watch that the five King Island Black Label cheeses were created.

With a career spanning more than 30 years, Ueli has earned acclaim nationally and internationally with awards for King Island Dairy cheeses. These include from the likes of the New York Fancy Food Show and World Championship Cheese Contest, as well as the Australian Specialist Cheesemakers’ Association Show and the Australian Grand Dairy Awards.

A match made in heavenKing Island Dairy master cheesemaker Ueli Berger shares his tips on matching wine with cheese.

The King Island Dairy philosophy

All King Island Dairy cheeses are created and matured exclusively on Tasmania’s King Island. Its indulgent dairy products are made purely with sweet King Island milk, produced from the herds that graze on some of the lushest and cleanest pastures in the world.

King Island Black Label is the artisan range, made by hand under the tutelage of Ueli Berger and is only available in specialty delicatessens, restaurants and hotels. It is focused on the finest King Island Dairy styles offering just five cheeses: Loorana Brie, Double Brie, Triple Cream Blue, Cloth Wrapped Cheddar and Black Wax Cheddar.

60Just in time for the cooler months, we set our team the task of each selecting 20 great red wines. The criteria? Standout

current-release reds that deserve to be singled out for their style. The result is an exciting and eclectic mix of sensational wines.

James HallidayWINE AUTHORITY

Campbell MattinsonWINE COMPANION MAGAZINE EDITOR

Ben EdwardsInternational

WINE AUTHORITY

GREAT REDS

WC_29_great_reds.indd 31 7/04/12 1:04 PM

60

GR

EA

T R

ED

S32

2010 Farr Rising Geelong Pinot NoirExcellent pinot noir colour; the first of four

regional wines made in identical fashion

to explore the impact of di� erent terroir; a

strikingly fragrant, richly robed pinot with dark

plum and spice aromas and flavours, tannins

and French oak promising a long life.

RRP $40 / www.byfarr.com.au

2010 PHI Single Vineyard Yarra Valley Pinot NoirClear red-purple; a complex wine from start to

finish, doubtless the reason why it walked away

with multiple trophies (including Best Wine of

Show) at the National Wine Show ’11. Despite the

depth and savoury complexity the wine has, its

dark berry fruits also have purity and length.

RRP $60 / www.phiwines.com

2010 Audrey Wilkinson Winemakers Selection Hunter Valley ShirazExcellent purple-crimson, deep but clear; a wine

of great complexity and power that will flower

magnificently over the next three decades and

beyond; blackberry, plum, licorice and French

oak are all there, but it’s the tannins that will

steer the wine into the far future.

RRP $35 / www.audreywilkinson.com.au

2010 Boireann Granite Belt ShirazThe vivid purple-crimson colour does not

deceive; this is yet another beautifully balanced,

beautifully structured shiraz from Boireann,

astute selection of fruit from across the Granite

Belt conjured by the inspired winemaking of

Peter Stark into a wine sitting comfortably with

the best wines of the southern and western

states of Australia.

RRP $40 / www.boireannwinery.com.au

2010 Cape Mentelle Margaret River ShirazDeep but clear purple-crimson; the bouquet

calmly announces its cool-grown origins, with

fragrant, almost flowery, red fruits and spices;

the medium-bodied palate is supple and

smooth, building impressively on the finely

structured finish thanks to exactly poised

tannins.

RRP $40 / www.capementelle.com.au

326

0 G

RE

AT

RE

DS

32323232

In choosing these 20 red wines, I was not attempting to combine a list of the greatest red wines that have been released in the last six or so months, simply 20 great wines. You will also see they come from many di� erent regions, including Adelaide Hills, Barossa Valley, Geographe, Granite Belt, Heathcote, Hunter Valley, Margaret River, McLaren Vale, Mudgee and the Yarra Valley. They also cover the varietal spectrum, so I hope you enjoy this wide selection.

James HallidayWINE AUTHORITY

20GREAT REDS

My

WC_29_great_reds.indd 32 7/04/12 1:04 PM

60

GR

EA

T R

ED

S6

0 G

RE

AT

RE

DS

2010 Patritti JPB Single Vineyard Shiraz

Giovanni Patritti arrived in Australia in 1925, and

sold his wines under the ‘John Patritti Brighton’

label, commemorated here. It’s a surprise to find

the 50-year-old vineyard is in Blewitt Springs, an

area known more for its elegance than power.

That to one side, this is an awesome wine, so

full of flavour that it burst out of my mouth, not

once, but twice, on a shirt that is unlikely to ever

be the same again. This is liquid blackberry,

dark chocolate and licorice, oak and tannins

mere support players. The cork in both wines is

of high quality, and correctly inserted.

RRP $45 / www.patritti.com.au

2010 Willow Bridge Estate Black Dog Geographe ShirazBright purple-crimson; low yield shiraz is

open-fermented, hand-plunged and matured

in French oak barriques for 18 months, one-

third new. The bouquet positively sings of red

and black fruits, with some floral overtones,

while the medium-bodied palate provides an

interplay between juicy, freshly squeezed, red

and black fruits, spice, cedar and fine-grained

tannins. A seriously lovely wine.

RRP $65 / www.willowbridge.com.au

2010 Wirra Wirra RSW McLaren Vale ShirazDeep crimson-purple; both the bouquet

and palate command immediate attention,

exhibiting a near-perfect paradigm for McLaren

Vale shiraz. Medium- to full-bodied, but

without any obvious alcohol warmth, it has an

unbroken stream of black fruits, licorice, dark

chocolate, cedary oak and fine, ripe tannins; the

balance, line and length reflect the very good

vintage and equally good winemaking. The

20-year drinking span is nominal, for the wine

will undoubtedly thrive well past 2030. Available

from July.

RRP $65 / www.wirrawirra.com

2009 Angove Warboys Vineyard McLaren Vale Shiraz

Sourced from vines on the northwestern

corner of the estate Warboys Vineyard, with a

southerly aspect exposed to breezes from the

Gulf of St Vincent, and matured in French oak; a

barrel selection of 176 dozen bottles ex French

oak. It has exceptional mouthfeel, superb fruit

in a soft swan’s down pillow of tannins, and a

lingering finish.

RRP $35 / www.angove.com.au

2009 Huntington Estate Special Reserve Mudgee Shiraz

Strong purple-red; right up there with the best

of Huntington Estate Special Reserves released

over the years; has great structure and balance,

fruit, tannins and oak all in harmony, red and

black cherry and plum flooding the palate yet

not threatening the balance or elegance of

the wine.

RRP $34 / www.huntingtonestate.com.au

2009 Kalleske Johann Georg Old Vine Single Vineyard Barossa Valley Shiraz

From a single block of vines planted in 1875,

and made in a very small quantity, the product

of a single open-top fermenter, finishing that

fermentation in French and American oak,

where it remained for the next two years. It is

very complex and intense, yet little more than

medium-bodied, having a tapestry of aromas

and flavours similar to Eduard, with great

length. How great will the ’10 be?

RRP $100 / www.kalleske.com

33

WC_29_great_reds.indd 33 7/04/12 1:05 PM

By Farr – but Nick did not automatically choose wine. He’s the oldest of three children and although he lived with vines growing outside his window – and knew first-hand the effort that went into their upkeep – he was a sports nut more than anything. Even now, during vintage, he can’t wait to get back out on the rope; his interest in water-skiing isn’t far off obsession. “The thing I miss about footy isn’t so much the games, but the times after the games, just sitting around with the guys,” he says.

He started an agricultural science degree – “mostly about broad-acre farming but it’s good training for helping you understand the soil” – but when he finished, he succumbed to expectation and started making wine. Not as an underling, mind you. Under his own steam, and his own name. Remarkably, at 21 – in 2001 – he started his own Farr Rising brand.

hen Nick Farr was 18 he was determined to be a tennis coach. He was born into a wine family but planned to study human movement. He was out on the

tennis court up to five days each week and played footy too, on weekends. It was on the wide, grassy, footy fields that the course of his life was altered. One afternoon, a rival player landed on his shoulder so hard that it took 40 minutes to re-set the dislocation. He has not set foot on a tennis court since – over 10 years later – and still can’t lift his left arm much above shoulder height; if he tried to serve, he wouldn’t be able to execute the ball toss. He had to find another career.

His father Gary Farr is a pioneering legend of Australian pinot noir – having put the iconic Bannockburn winery near Victoria’s Geelong on the map, before establishing the similarly prestigious

Nick Farr’s reputation – as winemaker at both Farr Rising and By Farr – is growing at great speed.

But there’s more to this man than first meets the eye.

winemaker48

son of a

gun

wWORDS campbell mattinson // PHOTOGRAPHY Vincent lonG

➺

WC_48_52_WinemakerFarr4.indd 48 5/04/12 9:56 AM

WC_48_52_WinemakerFarr4.indd 49 5/04/12 9:56 AM

hardonnay arrived in Australia in 1832 along with the other 361 surviving varieties collected in James Busby’s epic trip through

Spain and France the previous year. He collected cuttings from Clos Vougeot on December 16, 1831, describing it in his Journal of a Tour as “pineau blanc or chaudeny – white. Produces indifferently; is the only white grape cultivated in the best vineyards”. Just to complicate the matter, the following week he also collected cuttings from

Champagne, listing them as “plant blanc, or white pineau”.

Small wonder chardonnay used to be called pinot chardonnay by winemaker Murray Tyrrell, confounding the confusion by abbreviating it to pinot when blended with riesling in Bin 61 – “pinot riesling” brought incredulous looks from overseas experts. The explanation that it was really a blend of chardonnay and semillon (once called Hunter River riesling) only made matters worse.

evolution of chardonnay

How to

appreciate the

54

Wine authorityJames Halliday

Ph

oto

grap

hy

// Co

rbis / illu

stration

// iStockp

ho

to

C

Australian chardonnay has seen the dizzying heights of demand and also been left behind. As more elegant chardonnay styles hit the market,

there is plenty of reason to explore this great white wine, as James Halliday writes.

➺

WC_54_58_Chardonnay.indd 54 5/04/12 3:05 PM

Ph

oto

gra

ph

y //

iSto

ckp

ho

to /

Get

ty Im

ages

evolution of chardonnay

how to… 55

BY THE NUMBERS

AustralianChardonnay

Crush (tonnes per year)

445{1976}

17,500{1986}

120,000{1997}

211,000{1999}

329,000{2004}

428,000{2008}

298,000{2010}

ww

w.w

ineco

mp

anio

n.co

m.au

JUN

/JUL 20

12

WC_54_58_Chardonnay.indd 55 5/04/12 3:05 PM

66

spice it upWho says you can’t pair wine with spice? Warm up this winter with

an easy Indian feast and discover these brilliant wine matches. RECIPES KATRINA MEYNINK • DRINK MATCHES HARsHAl sHAH

PHOTOGRAPHY CATHERINE sUTHERLAND • FOOD STYLING sONIA PATERsON

67T

his

pag

e //

Wh

ite w

ine

tum

ble

r fr

om

Sch

ott

Zw

iese

l W

ord

s //

Am

elia

Bal

l

“Ideally, a delicate, aromatic tea, like the Kashmiri kawa chai, would be perfect to round things off with this dessert. But a delicate moscato from Australia

or a Moscato d’Asti from Piedmont, Italy, would also suit. This style of moscato often has hints of mint and fennel, and even coriander seeds, so it will complement the sweetness

and nuttiness of this dessert. It is appropriately sweet not to be overwhelmed by the dish and the fizz will leave the palate refreshed after every bite.”

WineMatch

cumin and pistachio kulfi

This makes eight to 10, depending on the size of moulds. Find them in Indian

grocery stores, otherwise you can use dariole moulds or other glassware. You

will need to start this recipe one day ahead of time.

IngredientsB/c cup pistachios, finely ground

(fine to replace with B/e cup pistachio paste)

2 tsp ground cumin150ml condensed milk

100ml milk100ml thickened cream

Method1 / Blend all ingredients in a

blender until it’s a coarse puree. Spoon the mixture into the

moulds and freeze overnight.

2 / Serve in the mould or glass. Alternatively, remove the moulds

from the freezer and briefly run their ends under hot water. To loosen,

turn them out onto plates and serve. Chopped mango and

pomegranate seeds work well with this dessert if desired.

the

hotlist

The hunTer Valley is

ausTralia’s mosT VisiTed

wine region – almosT Three

million people TraVel here

each year, for good reason.

This is a wine and food

playground jusT Two

hours from sydney.

words // emma VenTura

hun

ter

Ph

oto

grap

hy

// Hu

nter V

alley To

urism

; To

urism

NSW

; Alam

y

WC_90_97_Hunter.indd 90 5/04/12 10:50 AM

PICTUREDCellar doors, vines and inspiring scenes are just some of the delights to be hadin this New South Wales wine region.

ONE MINUTE you’re dining in a fancy winery restaurant with former Miss Universe Jennifer Hawkins in your line of sight, the next you’re unceremoniously picking your way through the mud after a boggy landing in a hot-air balloon. Such might be a typical weekend in the Hunter Valley, where the experiences over a few days can be as rich as the regional history itself. It can make honing your weekend hit list a daunting process, so we’ve prepared a list of favourites to get you started.

91

✚

Ph

oto

grap

hy

// Hu

nter V

alley To

urism

; To

urism

NSW

; Alam

y

WC_90_97_Hunter.indd 91 5/04/12 10:50 AM

ta

stin

g n

ot

es

Wine authorityJames Halliday

106

Each edition, we bring you the tasting notes for 100 current release wines in a bid to help you navigate the ever-growing world of Australian wine. We have categorised the selections into groups of varietals and blends,

which also represent almost every wine region in the country. We hope you enjoy these recommended wines and find something new to enjoy.

tastingnotes

James Halliday’s

notesCurrentreleases

JUn

/ J

UL

20

12

w

ww

.win

eco

mp

anio

n.c

om

.au

How we rate them

94 – 100 PointSOutstanding / Wines of the highest quality, often with a distinguished pedigree

90 – 93 PointSHighly recommended / Wines of great quality, style and character, worthy of a place in any cellar

87 – 89 PointSRecommended / Wines of above- average quality, fault-free, and with clear varietal expression

84 – 86 PointSAcceptable / Wines of good commercial quality, free of any significant fault.

80 – 83 PointSOver to you / Everyday wines, usually cheap and with little or no future, needing more character and flavour

CELLARINGWhile intended to be used as a guide only, each wine has been given a suggested year that indicates the length of time a wine should drink at its best.

C 2020

9094

84

87

81

wINERy STAR RATINGWhere relevant, each winery’s star rating has been placed. This references James Halliday’s own ratings in his book, Australian Wine Companion 2012.

bbbB

GREAT VALuEWhile the aim is to present as many great value wines as possible, this icon has been placed on those examples that stood out as particularly great buys.