WFO DMAX SAS 3” Radius Arm Installation Instructions DMAX_HD 00... · WFO DMAX SAS 3” Radius...

10076 Streeter Road, Suite 7 Auburn, CA 95602 530.268.9494 P | [email protected]

www.wfoconcepts.com Revised 4/2019

PART# WFO DMAX SAS KIT

3” Radius Arm Kit

GENERAL NOTES:

This IFS to Straight Axle Kit requires welding and fabrication skills.

We recommend to have your 2005 + Superduty axle prepped and ready to go before you remove the

IFS. This will save you time.

The installation of this SAS kit requires major cutting, grinding and some drilling. Many of the major

suspension brackets on the front half of the vehicle will need to be cut off and ground smooth. A

plasma cutter or oxy-acetylene torch works best but you can also use a grinder with a cut off wheel.

Read the instructions before attempting IFS Removal and installation of WFO parts! You may need

some additional tools that you currently do not have. This will save you a lot of extra work.

If you have any aftermarket performance products such as programmers or chips, you should check

with the manufacturer regarding changing gears and tire size. There may be programming you need to

do.

Secure and properly block vehicle prior to beginning the IFS removal.

Use caution when cutting under the vehicle. The factory undercoating, wires and your clothes are

flammable! Take appropriate precautions.

Welding should be done by an experienced, confident welder.

Before you begin, check the parts and hardware against the parts list to assure your kit is complete.

Organize the parts according to the areas where they will be used and place the hardware with the

components before you begin. This will save on installation time.

The stock wheels will not fit on the new Ford Superduty ‘05+ Axle due to the unit bearings are too big.

You need 4.25 backspacing.

WFO Concepts implies no guarantees or warranties and is not liable for improper installations.

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WFO DMAX SAS 3” Radius Arm Installation Instructions


BOX 1_DMAX CM CENTER

(1) Crossmember Center Section

(20) 1/2"-13 x 1 3/4" Bolt, Grade 8

(20) 1/2" - flat washer, Grade 8

(20) 1/2"- nylock, Grade 8

(1) CM Instruction sheet

BOX 2 _DMAX CM SIDES

(1) Driver Side Frame Bracket

(1) Passenger Side Frame Bracket

(1) Driver Side L Bracket

(1) Driver Side L Bracket

(2) Duroflex Joints

(1) Lower, coilover shock mounts

(1) Bump stop kit (3" kit only)

(1) Conversion Ujoint

(1) Trackbar bracket, frame side

(1) TB bracket, Axle side (6" Kit only)

BOX 4_UPPER & LOWER LINKS

(2) FSD Lower 2" Links

(2) FSD Upper 1.75" Links

(4) M18 x 130mm Link mount bolts

(8) M18 Washers

(4) M18 Nylocks

BOX 5_FRAME PLATE/STEERING

(1) Driver Side Frame Plate

(1) Passenger Side Frame Plate

(1) Draglink + ES2027L

(1) Brake Line Kit

(1) ABS Pigtail Kit

(1) Pitman Arm



Prepare ‘05+ Axle:

Now that you have purchased a “new”, used 2005+ Ford Superduty Axle, you will need to do some

work on it before you place it under your Chevy Duramax. Below, are some WFO instructions on

what to remove and install on the axle. You may want to presoak some of the bolts with a penetrating

lubricate to help remove them.

NOTE: Since this is a used axle we recommend you replace the ball joints, brake pads, draglink

ends, tie rod ends, u-joints, hubs and gear oil, at your discretion.

INSTRUCTIONS:

1.) You will want to remove components from the axle such as, sway bar links, shocks, coil buckets and the long side of the draglink including the coupler. For the 3” SAS Kit, you will use the ‘05+ axle Trackbar and bracket.

2.) You will need to replace the Wheel Hub and Bearing assembly with a machined wheel hub so the bolt pattern will match your rear axle. This is a service we can provide, just give us a call.

a. Using a 21mm Socket, remove the two larger caliper bolts on the caliper bracket. The whole assembly will come off together.

b. Remove the rotor.

c. Using a 5mm Allen wrench, Unbolt the ABS sensor. Do NOT discard.

d. Remove locking hub with a T27 socket

e. Using snap ring pliers, remove the Large snap ring that rides on the axle stub shaft.

f. Using a 21mm socket, remove the 4 nuts on the back side of the knuckle that are holding the unit bearing on. .

g. Note how the metal disc brake shield is in place. You will need to reinstall it in the same manner. Then, pull unit bearing out. You may have to use opposing pry bars on either side of the unit bearing to break it free.

h. Replace with new/used redrilled unit bearing

i. Reinstall the 4 nuts on the unit bearing studs. Use Blue Loctite. Torque to 133ft lbs. in a star pattern.

j. Reinstall the speed sensor wire. Make sure to rebend the sheet metal tab back over it so it won’t rub on the inside of the rotor.

k. Reinstall snap ring in the groove at the end of the stub shaft.

l. Reinstall stock Ford locking hub or aftermarket Warn Hub (WAR 95060)

m. Install new/used redrilled rotor.

n. Reinstall caliper bracket using blue Loctite and torque to 166ft lbs.



3.) Install the new, lower coil over shock mount. (WFO 5360-KIT)

a. Unbolt and remove the stock coil bucket from the axle.

b. Grind the top and sides of the area clean so the new mounts sit flush.

c. Using a 22mm socket, install the new bracket with the 14mm bolt onto the axle.

d. Weld the top of the brackets so it is secure. (see picture above)

4.) Take off the differential cover to change the fluid and inspect the gears. Verify which ratio is in the axle. It should be 3.73 or 4.10 (rare).

5.) Reseal the cover with RTV Silicone and reinstall.

6.) Paint the axle.

7.) Remove the factory Ford vacuum actuator and install the supplied 1/8” plug (in with the WFO Brake lines). If you want, you could apply Teflon tape or pipe dope but it’s not necessary.

8.) Your axle is ready to be installed!



REMOVE IFS:

Note: Our instructions on removal of the IFS are generic and vague due to the variations of stock vs lifted IFS vehicles.

1.) Pull truck onto a flat surface and make sure your steering wheel is straight and remove the key. You want the steering wheel to remain straight so the clock spring does not get damaged.

2.) Disconnect the positive and negative battery cables.

3.) Lift the front of the truck and support with jack stands under the frame rails. We recommend a jack stand by the first most forward body mount and then again directly behind the body mount that is behind the axle.

4.) Remove both front wheels.

5.) Drain the fluid from the front IFS differential carrier assembly.

6.) Remove the 4wd actuator with a 1 13/16” wrench. Set aside and save! You will reinstall it later so warning lights won’t come on on your dash.

7.) Remove the front two inner plastic fender wells before using the plasma cutter. Set them aside. You will reinstall them at the end.

8.) Use a torsion key remover tool, remove the key hold down pins. You can rent this tool from your local auto parts store or purchase one. Pound with a sledge hammer and punch torsion bars forward from the back side, out of the torsion key crossmember.

9.) Remove torsion bars by pulling them towards the back of truck out of the control arms.

10.) Support the Transmission with a jack stand under the rear yoke.

11.) Disconnect the ABS speed sensor wire from the connector at the top of the frame.

12.) Disconnect the front OEM brake lines from the hard line at the frame, and IMMEDIATELY cap the hard line with the provided 5/16 vacuum caps (in with the new WFO Brake Lines) to prevent fluid from draining out and taking in air. If you do not cap the lines and the fluid drains completely out of the system, you will need to take your truck a dealership or professional mechanic to cycle your ABS system with a programmer to bleed the ABS.

13.) Start by removing items such as front driveline, sway bar, shocks and steering components.

14.) Then start from the top down, remove bolts from frame side attachment points first and work your way down leaving hubs and shafts still assembled. Remove sway bar completely and set aside for later. Remove tie rod from pitman arm and idler arm but keeping it attached to the knuckles.

15.) Begin torching……………….

16.) Note: On the passenger side, you will need to cut the two studs that are holding the front differential bracket onto the frame in order to remove the bracket.

.



Install Crossmember:

Installation time is approximately 1 hour

See the instructions that are provided in the crossmember box containing the center section.

Install Frame Plates:

Installation time is approximately 1-2 hours to mock up and weld

1.) Completely grind clean and prep frame rail everywhere a weld will be. The prep is crucial! The better the prep you do now the better the weld will be, so take your time!



2.) Fit frame plates on frame. Clamp tightly in four or more places along the frame to hold it in place.

3.) Test fit the shock towers to make sure they are seated against the frame plate and sitting on top of the frame rail. Make any adjustments necessary to the frame plates now before you begin welding.

4.) Once correctly adjusted, make multiple tacks approximately every 6 inches on the perimeter of the frame plates.

5.) Weld the frame plates. Make sure to jump from front of frame plate to back of frame plate. Weld the driver side front/back then move to the passenger side and repeat to prevent warping and overheating the frame. Do NOT weld up the two small square holes near the top of the frame plates. These are locators for mounting the shock towers.

6.) Let the frame plates cool. Then grind and smooth any sharp edges you may have.

Install Shock Towers:

1.) The shock towers are side specific. On the backside of the towers, you will see a part number. The last letter will be a "D” for Driver Side or a “P” for Passenger Side to help you determine which side they get welded to.

2.) Make sure to push any wires or hoses out of the way.

3.) NOTE: On some models, on the driver side you may need to trim the plastic piece hanging down from the engine compartment. Otherwise, it will interfere with the top of the shock tower.

4.) Use the two tabs that are on the back, lower side of the shock tower legs to locate them into the square holes that are on the top portion of the frame plates. The shock towers will slightly lean back towards the cab of the truck.

a. The legs and bottom of the tower need to sit flush to the frame plate and top of frame rail.

b. Once the towers are flush, tack them in place. Do NOT weld them on yet!



5.) Before you completely weld the shock towers in place, you will need to locate the trackbar bracket on the driver side frame.

a. 3” Kit – See pictures below, the trackbar bracket will be placed up against the front, outside of the driver side shock tower.

b. The long leg on the trackbar bracket will weld onto the old upper IFS 3rd member bracket for support so make sure it is ground and clean. Tack in place.

6.) Once you are satisfied with the trackbar bracket placement. You need to weld the shock towers and trackbar bracket in place. You need to weld the trackbar bracket to the shock tower for support.



Install Axle and link mounts:

1.) Roll the previously prepped 2005+ Superduty axle under the front of the truck.

2.) Install the lower and upper links.

a. Screw the gold, Duroflex joints into the lower links. We highly recommend using anti seize on the threads of the Duroflex joints. The lower links will measure approximately 43” from center to center.

b. Install the lower, large 2” link. Starting with installing the large clevis end onto the axle using the provided M18 bolts. You need to put the large cap facing down. Then slip the other end up into the crossmember.

c. Screw in the 7/8” x 3/4” heim joint into the upper link. We highly recommend using anti seize on the threads. The upper link will measure approximately, 25 1/8” for the 3” kit.

d. Install the upper link mounts starting with the large clevis ends onto the axle. This time, you will put the large cap facing up.

e. Torque the M18 bolts on the axle to approximately 250 ft-lbs.

f. Your caster will be 3 - 5 degrees.

3.) Install the OEM trackbar. Use anti seize on the final assembly.

4.) NOTE: If you purchased the optional steering box brace, this would be the time to install it.

5.) Install supplied pitman arm. Make sure your steering box is centered! Torque to 184 ft-lbs.



6.) Assemble and Install the double bent Draglink.

a. Thread the supplied Moog ES2027L into the left hand (notched) tube adapter side. We highly recommend using anti seize on the threads.

b. Thread the double nut adjuster end of the bar onto the factory Ford draglink end that is on the passenger side knuckle. NOTE: Make sure the threaded double adjuster sleeve is screwed all the way into the draglink bar. The Ford draglink end needs to be installed all the way into the double nut adjuster. The length adjustment will be made while the complete draglink is on the vehicle. This keeps an even adjustment on both sides of the adjuster sleeve otherwise it could pull out and damage the threads.

c. Install the supplied draglink into the pitman arm side. The installed length should be approximately 41.25”

d. Make sure the double nut adjuster pinch clamp bolt is vertical and toward the front of the truck.

7.) 3” kit only, you need to install/weld the bump stop brackets in between the shock tower legs. The back of the bump stop bracket will be located 4 1/4” off the back inside of the shock tower leg. Tack in place. We recommend, to cycle the ‘05+ Ford Superduty Axle up so the bump stop contacts the OEM flat bump stop pad that is on the Ford axle. Then weld the bracket in place.



8.) Cycle the suspension from full bump to full droop to make sure everything is cycling correctly.

9.) Once you have determined everything is cycling correctly then we suggest painting the links and front bars.

10.) Install coil overs.

11.) Install the supplied brake lines.

a. Route the brake lines through the holes on the lower, back side of the shock tower first before attaching either of the ends. Run the small -3 end of the brake line from the front of the truck towards the back of the truck then drop down to the axle.

b. Connect the banjo fitting onto the caliper so the threads are facing toward the motor. Then tighten the stainless steel brake line to the banjo.

c. Finally, you will connect the stainless steel brake line to the hardline up on the frame side. Some bending may be needed on the hardline. Pull off the cap you previously installed onto the hardline and immediately connect the stainless steel brake line to the hardline.

12.) Install the supplied ABS jumper wires. You will connect to the long ABS wire coming out of the unit bearing of the Ford Axle then route the ABS wire behind the shock tower and connect to the factory Chevy ABS plug up on the frame side. You may want to zip tie the ABS line behind the tower to the brake line so it doesn’t contact anything.

13.) For a clean look, we recommend zip tying the ABS line to the stainless steel brake line.

14.) Bleed the brake lines per factory specs.

15.) Install the supplied conversion Ujoint (2-1153) onto your front driveshaft at the axle side. Then install driveshaft.

16.) Double check all your bolts and jam nuts.

17.) Check the toe on the front axle. We recommend being toe’d in 1/8”. You can do this with a tape measure but we do suggest getting it professional done within a few days to prevent tire wear.

18.) GO FOR A TEST DRIVE!

WFO DMAX SAS 3” Radius Arm Installation Instructions DMAX_HD 00... · WFO DMAX SAS 3” Radius...

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