We’ve Gone Viral Mystery Quilt

We’ve Gone Viral Mystery Quilt


Designed exclusively for: © Border Creek Station Pattern Company www.bordercreekstation.com

Installment 5 Part 1: Using these pieces…

1. Watching their positioning, select two assorted sewn units from Baggie J and place on either side of one Baggie B unit. Referring to the diagram below lay out the units being VERY careful to make sure they are exactly as shown in the diagram.

2. Pin to secure nesting seams (if necessary, turn seams

to nest) and stitch. Press these seams OPEN to relieve the bulk as shown by the arrows.

3. This new block is called Cut Glass Dish and should now measure 12-1/2” x 12-1/2” unfinished. Trimming to tidy should not be necessary (please remember diagrams do not show seam allowance).

Total Yield 9 pcs.

Part 2: Using these pieces…

1. From the variety of different fabrics in Baggie I select and place two of these pieces on either side of one piece from Baggie D.

2. Join pieces together along the 5” side as shown by the diagram below. Press seam towards Baggie I (towards the darker fabric).

3. Now cut each sewn unit into 1-1/2” sub cuts. You will get 3 pcs from each sewn unit. There is no need to

keep the small scrap pieces leftover – this just provides enough to ensure the sub cuts are perfect.

4. Each new sub cut piece should measure 1-1/2” x 3-1/2” unfinished.

Total Yield 36 pcs.

Remove from:

Baggie B 9 pc. (0 pieces remaining)

Remove from:

Baggie J 18 pc. (0 pieces remaining)

Remove from:

Baggie D 12 pc. (0 pieces remaining)

Remove from:

Baggie I 24 pc. (0 pieces remaining)

Baggie I

Baggie I

Baggie D

Baggie B

Baggie J

Baggie J

We’ve Gone Viral Mystery Quilt – Installment 5



Continue with the following …

1. From the variety of different fabrics in the units in Baggie K select and place two of these units on either side of one unit made from above, nesting seams to make this light version of the 9-patch block. Press seams as shown by the blue arrows. This block should measure 3-1/2” x 3-1/2” unfinished.

2. The next sewing will be completed in steps. For Step 1 join one Baggie H unit to the 9-Patch block as shown. Start stitching from the right side towards the left BUT STOP stitches where shown – this will create a ‘loose end’. Do a couple of back stitches to hold. Finger press towards the Baggie H unit.

3. Following the diagrams, continue with Step 2, Step 3 and Step 4 watching the orientation and pressing towards the Baggie H unit. Once the last side is joined, match, pin and stitch the ‘loose end’ to complete the block as shown by the green arrow.

4. This block is called Flying Squares and should measure 5-1/2” x 5-1/2” unfinished.

Step 1: Step 2: Step 3: Step 4:

Part 3: Using the fabric below…

Fabric #1 Background Total

Cut 3-1/2” wide strips of fabric X 42” WOF

Cut 1 strips Sub cut strips into (7) 3-1/2” x 3-1/2” pcs. 7 pcs.

Total Yield 7 pcs.

Remove from:

Baggie K 72 pc. (0 pieces remaining)

Remove from:

Baggie H 144 pc. (0 pieces remaining)

Baggie H

Bagg

ie H

Baggie H

Baggie H

Baggie K

Baggie K




Continue with the following …

Diagram 1: Diagram 2: Diagram 3:

1. Join the 3-1/2” cut square from above to the Baggie F unit as shown by the Diagram 1. Begin stitching as shown by the red arrow. Stitch to join but stop short of the next edge (as shown) and backstitch a few stitches. This will leave a section unsewn. Finger press to the darker fabric. Pin back this loose section.

2. Working clockwise, now join one Baggie C unit along the left edge by matching from the edge of the center square as shown in Diagram 2. Ensure that the strips of Fabric 2 line up. Finger press to the darker fabric.

3. Continuing clockwise and in the same manner join one unit from Baggie F as shown in Diagram 3. Finger press to the darker fabric.


4. Refer to Diagram 4 and as before continue clockwise and join one unit from Baggie C matching from the

edge of the 3-1/2” center square. Finger press to the darker fabric.

5. Unpin the loose section on the center square and matching edges as shown in Diagram 5 and stitch to join. Now gently press seams to the darker fabric with a dry iron. Your block should look ‘woven’.


Remove from:

Baggie C 14 pc. (0 pieces remaining)

Remove from:

Baggie F 14 pc. (0 pieces remaining)

Baggie F

Baggie C Baggie F

Bagg

ie C



Designed exclusively for: © Border Creek Station Pattern Company

www.bordercreekstation.com

6. Once pressed this block needs to be trimmed to size. This is a very important step. Please measure carefully and as follows: • Center large square ruler over the block. As the block will measure 12-1/2” unfinished, align the

corners of the center square with the 6-1/4” lines on the ruler both horizontally and diagonally as shown in Diagram 7. Take your time with centering the ruler to get it correct. You should see there will be a safe amount of trimming along the outside of the block.

• Holding ruler firmly in place, carefully trim the right and top sides of the block as shown in Diagram 8. Then turn the block, re-center the ruler as before and trim the remaining two sides.

7. This block is called ‘Simple Knot’ (or more appropriately the ‘Hashtag’ block) and should measure 12-1/2” x

12-1/2” unfinished. Continue with the above steps to make all of the ‘Simple Knot’ blocks.

Total Yield Make 7 Simple Knot blocks.

Part 4: Quilt Center Assembly

1. Using a design wall or large surface will make the assembly of the quilt center easier. Referring to the Quilt Center diagram at right and carefully lay out the Cut Glass Dish and the Simple Knot blocks with the cut 12-1/2” squares from Baggie A as they will be placed in the quilt center. Note the Cut Glass Dish block is rotated in the alternate rows. Please follow the diagram VERY CAREFULLY.

2. The red dashed lines designate the single horizontal rows that will be used to construct the quilt center.

3. Begin by carefully joining the blocks within their horizontal rows. Pin carefully with right sides together, matching edges, seams and block corners. Stitch carefully with 1/4" seam, guiding the seam so any points will not be cut off short.

Pressing: Due to the many adjoining points, press these seams open to relieve any unnecessary bulk. Although a bit tedious, (and do take your time) it will be worth it in the end.

4. Return each sewn and pressed row back to its original position within the layout and repeat this procedure

with remaining blocks to make all horizontal rows as shown.

5. Now join together the sewn horizontal rows to assemble the entire quilt center. With right sides together, join rows by pinning to secure at matching seams, centers, and points for the entire row before stitching. Sew carefully.

6. Once assembled the quilt center should measure 48-1/2” x 60-1/2” unfinished.

Remove from:

Baggie A 4 pcs. (0 pieces remaining)





Adding the Borders: Please read through the “General Border Instructions” below… Each border is attached separately as per the following instructions. For the purpose of this quilt design and ‘the best use of fabric’, all borders will be joined by establishing and keeping consistent adding the borders LEFT & RIGHT first, and then the TOP & BOTTOM.

When you are adding a plain border to the quilt top: 1. Fabric for plain border strips will be cut longer than actual measurement required. Strips will be joined end

to end to obtain length where indicated with seams pressed open. 2. Fold the border strip in half end to end and mark or pin to indicate the center. Measure out from center,

half of the measurement needed for the length of the quilt side and mark. Repeat for the other end. 3. Find the middle of the quilt side and with right sides together and edges even, match centers of border strip

to quilt center and pin. Now match the outer markings to the edges of the quilt; these should line up at the very edge of the quilt. Do not trim excess fabric yet. Pin along edge to secure border to quilt top.

4. Join border strips to quilt center by carefully stitching with a 1/4” seam allowance. Be careful of any points in the quilt center’s blocks. Border ends will be loose and floppy - do not trim.

5. Press seams to this plain border or as instructed. Trim the excess fabric from the attached border strips by laying the quilt top flat. Use a longer ruler (6” x 24”) and place along the quilt using the sewn seam on a ruler line to ensure the outside corner edge is 90-degrees. This will keep the corners square. Now carefully trim any excess fabric off the ends.

When you are adding a pieced border to the quilt top: 1. Pieced borders will be constructed the proper length as designed. Fold the border strip in half at the center

and mark or pin to indicate the center of strip. 2. Find the middle of the quilt side and with right sides together and edges even, match centers of border to

quilt center. Pin so that pieced border will be on top when you stitch. Now pin ends of pieced border strip to the edges of the quilt. These should line up at the very edge of the quilt. Pin well to secure pieced border to quilt top, matching crucial points where necessary to prevent stretching.

3. At the sewing machine, place pieced border on top in order to view any points in the piecing so they will not get chopped off during stitching. Carefully sew with a 1/4” inch seam. Press seams carefully as indicated in pattern. Accurately pieced borders do not require trimming.

Part 5: Adding the Borders Adding Border 1: In order for the next pieced border to fit, Border 1 will have different width borders for the sides. Please read the instructions carefully, cut and attach accordingly.

Fabric #1 Background

Left & Right Borders: Cut (4) 4” wide strips of fabric X 42” WOF

Top & Bottom Borders: Cut (3) 3” wide strips of fabric X 42” WOF

Left & Right Borders: 1. Join the short ends of (2) 4” x 42” strips to make one longer strip. Press seams open. Repeat to make a total

of (2) longer strips. 2. Following the General Border Instructions, attach (2) longer border strips to the quilt center LEFT & RIGHT

sides. Press seam to this border. Trim ends even with quilt top.





Top & Bottom Borders: 1. Cut (1) 3” x 42” strip in half to make (2) 3” x 21” strips. 2. Join the short end of (1) 3” x 21” half-strip to (1) 3” x 42” strip to make one

longer strip. Press seams open. Repeat to make a total of (2) strips. 3. Attach the remaining (2) longer border strips to the quilt center TOP &

BOTTOM sides. Press seam to this border. Trim ends even with quilt top.

The quilt center should now measure 55-1/2” x 65-1/2” unfinished.

Adding Border 2: Refer to the Quilt Diagram on the following page if necessary for correct placement.

Left & Right Borders: 1. Referring to the diagram below, join the correct number of Flying Squares blocks together with the Baggie

E pieces to make the LEFT and the RIGHT sides exactly as shown to make a long strip. When joining blocks together, nest seams or redirect seams to nest as necessary. Press seams to one side or open as you wish.

LEFT SIDE BORDER:

RIGHT SIDE BORDER:

Note: These blocks when joined into the strip as such, become stretchy and can distort easily with a hot iron – whether you use steam or not. Please press carefully. You may wish to finger press then gently iron once strips have been attached to the quilt center.

2. These border strips should each measure 5-1/2” x 65-1/2” unfinished.

3. Attach these border strips to the quilt center LEFT & RIGHT sides. At the sewing machine, with right sides together, place pieced border on top so seams can be directed to lie as pressed. Carefully sew with a 1/4” inch seam and press seam away from this joined pieced border.

Top & Bottom Borders: 1. Referring to the diagram below, join the Flying Squares blocks together with the Baggie E pieces to make

the TOP and the BOTTOM sides exactly as shown to make a long strip. When joining blocks together, nest seams or redirect seams to nest as necessary.

Remove from:

Baggie K 36 pcs. (0 pieces remaining)

Remove from:

Baggie E 4 pcs. (0 pieces remaining)





TOP and BOTTOM BORDERS:

2. These border strips should each measure 5-1/2” x 65-1/2” unfinished.

3. Attach these border strips to the quilt center TOP & BOTTOM sides. At the sewing machine, with right sides together, place pieced border on top so seams can be directed to lie as pressed. Carefully sew with a 1/4” inch seam and press seam away from this joined pieced border.

The quilt center should now measure 65-1/2” x 75-1/2” unfinished. Adding Border 3:

Fabric #1 Background

Cut (8) 3-1/2” wide strips of fabric X 42” WOF Left & Right Borders and Top & Bottom Borders: 1. Join the short ends of (2) 3-1/2” x 42” strips to

make one longer strip. Press seams open. Repeat to make a total of (4) longer strips.

2. Following the General Border Instructions, attach (2) longer border strips to the quilt center LEFT & RIGHT sides. Press seam to this border. Trim ends even with quilt top.

3. Attach the remaining (2) longer border strips to the quilt center TOP & BOTTOM sides. Press seam to this border. Trim ends even with quilt top.

The quilt center should now measure 71-1/2” x 81-1/2” unfinished.

Designer notes: I am honoured to have been asked to design this mystery quilt and that you have chosen to participate. The premise of this design was to coincide it with the chosen name of “Quilting Goes Viral” for the 2019 Quilt Canada Show. Obviously the ‘hashtag’ looking block has become a symbol of our web life with the numerous scrappy HSTs of the Cut Glass Dish block representing the twinkling of quilt ideas, new friends made around the world and discovered webpages. It is a ‘sparkly’ world for us now. These blocks are turned in the design because we are always turning “Look!” with new ideas, projects and more quilting joy! The pieced border blocks reminded me of the first computer cards with holes all punched out in what seemed like random patterns thus the number of blocks on each border side are not the same and to some may appear to be randomly placed. Together quilting and the internet, although independent of each other, exist in harmonious unison to become one letting our love of quilting be so much larger within our daily lives than perhaps even 20 years ago.

Happy quilting! Sherri





Part 6: The Finishing Touches…

Quilting and Finishing 1. Prepare backing fabric and layer with batting. Backing and batting should be 6” larger than the quilt top. 2. Baste quilt top, backing and batting layers to prevent any shifting during the quilting process. 3. Using the quilting method of your choice, the quilt can now be quilted. Adding the Binding I prefer a continuous binding method and cut the fabric on the cross-grain (from selvedge to selvedge) for straight sided quilts such as this. If the fabric is striped or checked – then bias cut strips are recommended. 1. Lay quilted quilt on a flat surface and using the long ruler, trim the excess batting and backing 1/4” larger

from quilt top. Make sure all quilt corners are perfect 90-degrees. At corners trim batting at a 45-degree angle.

2. From the binding fabric, cut the number of required strips from selvedge to selvedge 2-1/4”

wide (or a preferred width of 2-1/2” for binding). Join all strips together as per diagram using a 45-degree seam. Trim seams to 1/4” and press open.

3. With right sides out, fold and press in half lengthwise, matching raw edges. 4. Leaving a 7” binding tail and matching raw edges to quilt top, begin along one side

and sew binding to the quilt’s edge using walking foot and 1/4” seam allowance. Stop sewing 1/4” from corner of quilt. Remove quilt from the machine and miter at corners by folding strip up (vertically) making a 45-degree angle on corner, pin. Bring binding straight back down, folding so this new fold is at the outer edge of the quilt and raw edges are now even with the next side and pin. Begin sewing from the outside edge a 1/4” seam along this new side.

5. Continue stitching binding and mitering all four corners until about 12” away from starting point. Backstitch to secure leaving a tail of binding. Remove from machine.

6. In the unstitched area, overlap ending and beginning tail of binding strip. Measure and mark overlap at 2-1/4” (or 2-1/2” if used) as per diagram. Snip off excess end at mark. 7. Open folded binding ends and with right sides together

as in #2, stitch using a 45-degree angled seam. Trim seams to 1/4” and press open, then repress fold of binding matching raw edges. Pin to quilt edge as this should now lay flat and finish stitching seam.

8. Fold binding over to the back and begin hand stitching. The folded edge of the binding should meet with the stitching of the seam line. Form a folded miter at the corners in the opposite direction from the front and continue stitching around the quilt.

Fabric #4 Cut (8) 2-1/4” wide strips x 42” WOF (or preferred width of 2-1/2” for binding)

We’ve Gone Viral Mystery Quilt

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