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Water Usage Basics

Have you ever received your water bill and thought to yourself, “How could I have used that

much water in one month?” Fortunately, every water customer has free access to a valuable

tool to find the answer. It’s called the water meter.

The water meter is a highly reliable mechanical device that measures the flow of water to your

home or business. Flow meters have been in use for over a century and have remarkable

records for accuracy and dependability. A water meter can ultimately break and stop working,

but they have never temporarily delivered an inacurately high measurement and then suddenly

returned to normal. The meter is physically incapable of such an occurance.

Once you master an understanding of the metering process, you can use the meter to

determine how much water you use for various functions. This can help you in efforts to

conserve. You can also use the meter to determine if you have a leak, before the cost of the

leak becomes substantial. All it takes is an understanding of the meter and a regular monitoring

of it.

How to Read the Meter

The water meter serving your home is usually near the street and encased in a box that is

mostly underground. Once you find the box, you can usually lift the cover off easily and see the

meter inside. Sometimes, the lids may be tight and need some pliars to open, but they just pull

up. There is no lock or latch. Unfortunately, meter boxes are frequently filled with mud or

water because they are housed underground. The meters are uneffected by mud or water, but

it does make it more challenging to see the register. You may have to dig some dirt out or drain

water out if it has rained recently.

A number of differing meter styles are in use in our community, but most of them look very

similar. It should look something like the diagram show below:

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The black and bronze portion on the right side of the diagram above is the actual meter and the gray

portion on the left side of the diagram is an electronic device we use to send the meter reading to an

onboard computer in a Water Department truck.

Once you see the register (face) of the meter, it will look similar to the diagram below. Although it might

appear confusing at first glance, there is only one important number to record. It is just below the center

needle dial and it looks like an odometer reading in an automobile. Follow the arrow in the diagram

below.

Most of our meters use the seven digit system shown above, but some models vary. This is the crucial

number to observe. The spinning red dial is only used to determine individual gallons prior to the next

move on the register reading. The little white triangle is used to show any usage at all. It will spin

whenever water is being used. This is the component that will help you identify leaks and will be shown

Water meter reading

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in the next section. For now, notice the primary meter reading number and become familiar with it. The

last digit is usually stationary (sometimes two digits). Whenever a stationary digit is used, the individual

gallons can be measured by using the red needle and bigger dial that looks like a clock.

You can record the meter read number at any given time and compare it to the last official meter

reading that was posted on your bill. The usage amount is the difference between the two numbers. Or

you can read the meter, perform one water function in your home, then read the meter again to

determine how much water was used in that function. As an example, if you want to determine how

much water is used in washing a car, you would read the meter before and after washing the car (with

no other water device being used) and then find the amount in gallons by subtracting the first reading

from the second reading.

The Water Department only bills to the last 100-gallon level. This is not “rounding” that might

sometimes be calculated higher and sometimes lower. It always stops at the most recent 100-gallon

level, then starts back at that exact same level every month.

Monitoring Your Water Usage and the Water Department

The meter reading process described above is similar to the process the Water Department uses to

produce your monthly statement. Therefore, you can always check the accuracy of your bill by

comparing the readings on your statement to the readings you record off of the meter. Understand, of

course, that the meter numbers are constantly changing, so it is important to record the date and time

of your readings. And you are always welcome to ask us what day we expect to read meters in the

coming month. It will not always be the same day of the month, but most commonly it is on the 1st day

of the month, between 4am and noon, for automated readings. For manual readings, it is usually within

a couple of days before or after the 1st of the month.

Despite the incredible accuracy of the meters themselves, there has always been difficulty by water

companies in recording the meter readings and using them in the billing process. Many years ago, water

companies had scores of workers opening every meter box and recording the numbers with pen and

paper. You can imagine the number of mistakes that might occur in such a laborious process. Today,

water companies use electronic signals to send the numbers to an onboard computer in a truck and

then only read a small number of meters manually when the electronic signal is interrupted.

Whenever the meter reading process had errors in the past, many customers assumed something was

wrong with the meter. In actuality, the problem occurred in externally recording the meter numbers.

The meters were still accurate, but the numbers were recorded improperly. Whenever that happens,

the meter can be used to correct the problem, either immediately or in the next statement. This is

because the electronic signaling device or a live Meter-Reader cannot alter the actual numbers on the

meter. Even water meter technicians cannot alter the meter numbers. Water meters are constructed

with protections against tampering similar to automotive odometers. To alter the numbers on a water

meter would require the complete dismantling of the meter.

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How Accurate are the Meters

Water meters are extremely accurate. These are simplistic mechanical devices that use an internal water

flow signal to turn the meter numbers as water passes through the meter. There is no physical way for

the signal to turn faster than the water flows. The only possible degradation of the measurement is in

favor of the customer; in that, over time, sediment can build up within the meter and slightly slow the

measurement signal. This is why, if you have ever had a meter replaced, you may notice an increase in

your usage with the newer meter.

This is also why so much attention is paid to meter accuracy. Meter manufacturers have perfected the

construction of meters because of this need for accuracy. And water companies regularly check meters

to further ensure accuracy. The City expends considerable resources to contract with a leading

independent testing firm to audit our meters. Each year, a contractor conducts testing of meters and

puts them through rigorous analysis. The results of these annual reports are available to any customer,

upon request. The reports show an accuracy percentage above 99%.

How Can I Check the Accuracy of the Meter

If you question the accuracy of your meter, you are welcome to conduct a self-test. The following is a set

of instructions to complete a self-test.

Step 1 – Make sure no water is being used at the time of the test. Be sure that all faucets are turned off

and water appliances are not being used. Then check the meter to make sure the white diamond in the

middle is not spinning. If it is still spinning, you probably have a leak and you should discontinue the test

(see section below).

Step 2 – Make sure the meter is stopped on an exact number. The red dial should be at the “zero”

position. If it is not, slightly run water until it is in that position and cut the water off at that point. It

usually requires two people working in tandem to complete this step. Record the meter reading.

Step 3 – Obtain a 5-gallon bucket that shows the precise level where the 5-gallons level is achieved. If

necessary, use a precise 1-gallon container to fill the bucket 5 times and mark the exact 5-gallon level,

then empty the container.

Step 4 – Fill the 5-gallon container to the precise level from any one of your faucets.

Step 5 – Record the new meter reading and compare it to the previous reading to calculate the amount

of gallons registered. The calculation should be 5 gallons. If it is not, please contact the Water

Department and we will schedule a time to participate in a repeat test and, if necessary, change the

meter.

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Identifying a Leak in your House or on your Property

The biggest concern for customers usually involves leaks. Leaks represent the most prevalent waste of

water and unnecessary expense for customers. It is important to remember that water is often leaked

or wasted without the knowledge of the resident. The word “leak” here is not meant to imply water is

spilling on your floor and needs to be mopped up. Sometimes leaks are difficult to see or hear and that

is why the water meter can serve as a valuable tool in leak identification. The generic Leak Test is to turn

off all water devices in your house and on your property, then go observe the meter. If the white

triangle is still moving, that means water is still flowing into your system. Such an occurrence is only

possible if there is a leak or if you failed to turn off all the water devices.

If you determine you do have a leak, the next step is to identify the source of the leak and fix it. Most

frequently, small leaks are usually associated with toilets and faucets, while larger leaks are often found

in the underground lines between the meter and your residence (tree roots are usually the cause).

Other common leak sources include irrigation systems and Temperature-Pressure Relief Valves (note:

this is not the PRV or Pressure Reduction Valve).

These are some general trends, but leaks can occur in a wide variety of ways. Many homes have an

emergency water cut-off valve in or near the home that can be used to help narrow down the location

of the leak. If you turn off the water at that point and the White Triangle of the meter is still spinning,

then the leak is almost certainly between that point and the meter, not within the house. If turning off

the emergency shut-off valve stops the White Triangle from spinning, then the leak is almost certainly

within the home.

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Customers generally attempt to identify and fix leaks themselves or by using a plumber. Either way, it is

usually advisable to take action. Even a small a leak can often expand and begin consuming expensive

amounts of water. And do not be lulled into complacency simply because you cannot see a leak with

your own eyes. Leaks frequently occur in places or at times when they are not readily visible. Customers

are responsible for all water that passes through the meter, even if it is wasted in a leak just a few feet

away from the meter. And Water Department employees are prohibited from recommending plumbers

to use. However, it advisable to proceed with caution because professionals are often needed and

plumbing issues can sometimes be dangerous.

EMERGENCY WATER SHUT-OFF (Be Prepared)

There may be occasions when you need to turn off your water. Unfortunately, these are often times of

crisis when valuable possessions are being flooded. It is strongly recommended that customers

familiarize themselves with shut-off procedures in advance. In these cases, time is usually crucial. It only

takes a moment to shut off your water, but it may take a long time to familiarize yourself with how to do

it. Waiting until the crisis can be a costly mistake.

Most residences and businesses have internal emergency shut-off systems. These are usually the fastest

method of shutting off the water going into the home or business. However, the type and location of

these devices vary widely and cannot be summarized here. It is best to utilize the time necessary to find

and familiarize yourself with these internal shut-off systems. If those systems are not immediately

available, you can use the shut-off system at the meter, as described below.

Emergency Shut-Off at the Meter

First, find your meter! It should be near the curb of the street in front of or beside your location. It will

look similar to this:

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Next, take the cover off. You can use your fingers or a simple screwdriver as shown below:

Once the cover is off, the meter should be easily visible. If it is covered by mud or debris, dig out the

mud or debris from around the meter. Once accessible, the meter should look similar to this:

To shut off the water, twist the lever a quarter way to the RIGHT (as shown with

the arrow above) until the two holes are aligned.

The water should be shut off once those holes are aligned. You can reverse the process to turn the

water back on after any emergency repairs have been made. Some meters may be configured

differently, but most should have some sort of lever on one side that is used for this purpose.

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Irrigation Systems and Outdoor Watering

Most residential and commercial customers have greenery that needs watering. Some customers install

automated sprinkler systems, while others water manually. Either way, outdoor watering generally uses

considerably more water than inside, domestic usage. Automated sprinkler systems are frequently

involved in extremely high water bills, for a variety of reasons, including:

Automated timers can be difficult to control or may malfunction due to power surges

Timed systems often utilize early morning periods when the activity cannot be monitored

Underground leaks in sprinkler systems cannot be detected by the traditional methods

Most people have never measured how much water is used in automated systems

Installers frequently set the timers on patterns of overuse without due consultation

Many horticultural experts explain that over-watering is just as common and as harmful as under-

watering. Grass and most greenery need plenty of dry days for proper root growth. It is not uncommon

for some automated residential systems to pump out 10,000 – 50,000 gallons per month, when only a

few thousand gallons would have sufficed. Even manual watering is subject to waste because it is

difficult to remember how long sections have been watered, plus there is additional risk that distraction

will cause a hose to be left on accidentally overnight of for long periods.

Most importantly, irrigation system leaks cannot be detected by using the Leak Indicator at the meter.

This is because a leak in the irrigation system only leaks when the system is running (as is the Leak

Indicator). Plus, those leaks are usually underground and may not come to the surface. Even if they do

come to the surface, all the ground is wet anyway, making it still hard to notice. And irrigation systems

are particularly susceptible to tree roots and shovels.

The best advice is to test your system annually. You can do so for free yourself. The next time the

irrigation system is set to run, just record the meter reading in advance and upon completion (while not

using any water devices inside). If your system has several “stations,” record each station separately.

Depending on the station size, it is probably using a couple hundred gallons per station per 15-20

minutes. In any case, if the usage amounts are recorded and appear to be normal, that is good news, but

tape the recordings to the control box with the date. Then, every summer season, run the test again to

see if anything has changed. If one station goes up dramatically while others do not, you can easily

isolate a future leak to a particular station to save in the repair expenses by narrowing down the

location.

The only problem with this technique of utilizing stations to narrow down the location, is if your system

was installed as a sequential system rather than a home-run system. The technique works great with

home-run systems, but less so with sequential systems. This because a leak at a joint near the beginning

of a sequential system will impact all the stations remaining beyond that point in the sequence.

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The Use of “Datalogs”

The Water Department has installed some new electronic devices on meters that record your usage by

the hour. This data, if available, can be a valuable tool in understanding the reasons for spikes in usage.

For example, we recently had a customer who was completely baffled as to why her usage was so high.

Then, her datalog showed very high usage at exactly 4am every morning. She subsequently found out

that her landscaper had set her sprinkler system on, despite her instructions to the contrary.

In another case, although there were no leaks at a residence, the datalog showed very low, but

consistent usage between midnight and 4am. This was an indication that the water levels in the toilets

in the home were set too close to the overflow level. Every early morning, when water pressure rises,

the water in these toilets was draining into the overflow tube.

In yet another example, the homeowner was not even home when the datalog showed usage patterns

that stopped and started irregularly. The mystery was solved when a plumber determined there was a

problem with the Temperature Pressure Relief (Pop-Off) Valve on the hot water heater. The TPRV is

frequently the culprit of otherwise inexplicable usage patterns. (This is a different device than the PRV).

Even in cases where datalogs are not available, very frequent manual meter readings can also provide

useful information. In cases of great uncertainty, some customers choose to read the meter manually

every day, sometimes multiple times per day, while investigating cases of high usage. Such information

can then be used to narrow down the possible causes of high usage.

Typical Water Usage of Common Devices

Washer Machine - Old/Style 40-50 gallons per load; New/Efficient 15-25 gallons per load

Bathtub - Regular tubs 20-40 gallons; Garden tubs 40-80 gallons

Shower - 2-3 gallons per minute

Dishwasher - Old/Style 10-15 gallons per load; New/Efficient 5-7 gallons per load

Toilets - 2-5 gallons per flush

Sinks - 1-3 gallons per minute

Here are two websites with more specific information about water devices:

http://www.home-water-works.org/calculator

http://www.energystar.gov/index.cfm?c=products.pr_protect_water_supplies

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COMMON SOURCES OF CONSISTENT LEAKS and INTERMITTANT PROBLEMS

1) Toilets – There are three separate categories within toilets: a) Toilets that run constantly

because the internal “flapper” does not shut completely; b) Toilets that run until the handle is

jiggled because that causes the flapper to close; c) Toilets that run only in the early morning

hours when everyone is asleep because the water level in the bowl is too close to the overflow

level which is triggered as water pressure increases during low-usage hours.

2) Faucets – Faucets that do not shut off completely and maintain a small flow (not just a drip).

Such leaks are easily noticed in kitchen sinks, but often go unnoticed in showers and on outdoor

faucets.

3) Irrigation – Automated irrigation systems are common sources of leaks and excessive usage. A

leak within an irrigation system cannot always be detected using the Meter-check process

described in previous sections. Therefore, irrigation systems should be regularly checked for

leaks. Also, many customers with automated systems are unfamiliar with the automated timing

device and are often surprised to find their systems using considerably more water than they

wish. If you expect to use large amounts of water on irrigation (manually or automated), you

should seriously consider establishing a separate meter account for irrigation that avoids the

sewer charges for that use.

4) Outdoor Washing – Pressure washing and car washing often use a surprising amount of water.

It is advisable to use a spray nozzle on your hose when washing cars so the water is only running

when absolutely necessary.

5) Outdoor Hoses – It is not uncommon for outdoor hoses to be accidentally left running for long

periods or overnight. Occasionally, teenagers have been known to turn garden hoses on as a

prank on neighbors. These accidental uses can amount to huge amounts of water.

6) Temperature Pressure Relief Valve (Pop-Off Valve) – This device at the water heater is different

than the PRV that reduces pressure from the main to the house. This one is part of the hot

water heater and is a safety device that discharges water if the temperature and pressure in the

hot water heater is unsafe. A regular discharge may be occurring if your temperature is set too

high or if the sensor itself is faulty. This might be wasting water regularly in small intervals or

even as much as 150 gallons per hour in unusual cases. And you might never see it or hear it or

realize it is happening.

It should be noted here that many leaks and problems do not fit in any of the common categories

listed above.

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COMMONLY ASKED QUESTIONS

1) What is the average amount of water used per home?

There is no useful average. Every home, townhome, condominium, and business is

different. The number of residents, the number of water devices, and the amount of

irrigation all vary. However, a very crude formula for residential usage (inside only) is

1000 gallons per month per person (not including infants, but more for teenagers), but

1500 gallons for the first person.

2) Can I just take over the account of the person who resided here before me and change the

name on the account?

No. Each account is a legal obligation. Every new customer must complete an

application, submit supporting materials, and pay a deposit.

3) Water was used after I moved from the residence, why I am I being billed for it?

A water customer is obligated to pay for water used up until they notify us and officially

close the account.

4) There was a leak near the street on the main water line that was repaired by the Water

Department. Will that impact my bill?

No. Only water that flows through the meter servicing your account can physically turn

the internal wheel and register as usage on your account.

5) What if the Water Department cannot explain why my usage went up and then back down

without any leak being fixed?

It is not the Water Department’s responsibility to explain what happens to the water

after it passes through the meter. It is the customer’s responsibility. Most water

departments try to help in the investigation, but it is difficult to determine the cause of

past events, especially by someone who was not present at the location during that

time.

6) Why do I get charged for sewer expenses based upon my water usage and why are the sewer

expenses higher than the water?

Sewage is not measured through flow meters like water. Therefore, it is common

practice in the industry to use the water measurement for billing both. The sewer bill is

more expensive because modern environmental regulations require extensive

treatment of sewage.

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7) I have a pool that needs to be filled once per year. Why do I have to pay sewer charges based

upon that large, one-time water use?

You are eligible for a once-per-year sewer credit for a pool fill.

8) I had a leak that wasted much water, can I get an adjustment on my Water bill?

You are eligible for a once-per-year sewer credit for a leak that has been repaired, after

providing evidence of such a repair. The Leak Adjustment is only available on the sewer

portion of the two highest leak months. The customer remains responsible for all water

charges, because the water was used or wasted.

9) Why am I still getting a bill two months after moving out?

The Water Department bills customers by utilizing a metering system to determine

quantities for billing. The Water Department generally uses the actual month for

metering from the 1st of one month to the first of the next month (with some

exceptions). Then it takes a couple of weeks to complete the obtaining of meter

information and distributing the bills. The Water Department bills on the 15th of the

month for the usage in the previous month and that bill is due on the 30th of the month.

If a move out was completed at a certain odd time of the month, the last bill might not

be due until nearly two months after move out.

10) Why must I pay a Deposit?

The Water Department does not pull a credit history at time of application for new

service and all new customers are charged a deposit. The deposit is refundable at the

time the account is closed. Often times, the deposit is used to cover the last monthly

bill. If the deposit does not fully cover the amount owed after the account is closed, the

customer is responsible for paying the final amounts owed. Any account not paid within

60 days of account closure will be sent to an outside collection agency that will then

report the collection to credit bureaus.