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WalesView
2014
Coast & Country: award-winning beaches & mountain waterfalls
A tale of two cities: an insiders guide to Swansea & Cardiff
Chris Packham: celebrating the natural wonder of Wales
Adventure playground: mountain biking in Wales
Matthew Rhys: celebrating the life of Dylan Thomas
Plus travel and holiday information
visitwales.com
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Front cover
Rhossili, Gower Peninsula
This page
Dylan Thomass Writing Shed, The Boathouse, Laugharne
Opposite page, top to bottom
Matthew Rhys
Skomer Island, Pembrokeshire
Mission Gallery, Swansea
Conwy Castle, Conwy
BikePark Wales
Welsh produce
For a tiny piece of the planet, there is rather a lot to see and do in Wales.
We like to keep ourselves entertained, with festivals, anniversary celebrations and
sporting events. You can see this reflected in the natural enthusiasm of the people
of Wales. We use the country as our playground. It provides us with wonderful food
and inspires us to create great works of art and literature.
Wales is a modern, diverse country with a great heritage for everyone to enjoy;
and we look forward to sharing all these memorable experiences with you.
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Visit Wales cannot guarantee the accuracy
or reliability of the information in this
publication and hereby disclaim any
responsibility for any error, omissionor misrepresentation. To the fullest
extent permitted by law all liability for
loss, disappointment, negligence or
other damage caused by reliance on
the information contained in this guide
is excluded. You are advised to check
all details and information with the
business concerned before confirming a
reservation. All rights reserved. Material in
this publication must not be reproduced
in any form without permission from the
copyright owners please contact Visit
Wales. Opinions expressed in Wales View
are not necessarily those of Visit Wales.
Wales View is published by Visit Wales,
the Tourism and Marketing division of the
Welsh Government 2014.
Visit Wales, Welsh Government, QED
Centre, Main Avenue, Treforest Industrial
Estate, Treforest, Pontypridd CF37 5YR
(WG18041)
Managing Editors Iestyn George and
Charles Williams. Printed by Westdale Press.
Print ISBN: 978 1 4734 0418 2
Digital ISBN: 978 1 4734 0409 0
Crown copyright (2013) Visit Wales
Design & photography: Visit Wales
Creative Services.
Other photography: Bodnant Welsh Food
Centre, Celtic Manor Resort, Grace Elliott,
David Frost, Getty Image, Steve Hartley/
CBMWC, Charles Hawes, Gweldd Conwy
Feast, Ian Jones, Rainy Day Films, Steve Read,
Kiran Ridley, Lee Miller Archives, S4C, Nick
Treharne, Universal Studios, Wales Screen
Commission, Wrights Independent Food
Emporium and Ynys-Hir RSPB.
Back cover quotation: fromIdyll of
Unforgetfulnessby Dylan Thomas
The Trustees for the copyright of
Dylan Thomas, 1929.
This publication is also available in Braille,
large-format print, and/or audio from
Visit Wales.
1visitwales.com
Printed on recycled pape
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Dylan ThomasActor Matthew Rhys on Waless
best-known literary figure,
kicking off a year of centenary
celebrations in 2014.
Wales on film Visit the beauty spots that drew
Johnny Depp, Keira Knightley and
Dobby the House Elf to Wales.
Coast & country BBC television presenter Chris
Packham celebrates the wildlife
of Wales, alongside your guide to
its great gardens, beaches, islands
and waterfalls.
A tale of two cities International wheelchair athlete
and television presenter Liam Holt
explores the visitor attractions
of Cardiff and Swansea.
On the town A celebration of the historic
market towns of Wales.
Events diary Why not book your Welsh break
around one of the exciting events
taking place here in 2014?
The castles of Wales An appetising guide to a selection
of the 641 historic castles we have
in Wales.
Myths & legends Magical stories from all over Wales,
featuring an assortment of dragons,
water monsters and fairies.
Royal connections Follow in the footsteps of royals
down the centuries and youll end
up in Anglesey, former home of
Prince William and Kate.
Mountain biking Discover why Wales has become a
leading destination for mountain
bikers from all over the world.
Adrenaline WalesWales Views youngest contributortells us what its like to fly 500 feet
(152 metres) in the air along the
longest zip wire in Europe.
Food & drinkWhether youre foraging or
feasting, the natural produce grown
in Wales is unrivalled for freshness
and flavour.
In the lap of luxury Go on, spoil yourself...
Essential information Travel information, area guides
to Wales and FAQs.
Wales map
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Contents
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visitwales.com2
On a Sunday morning, a black-clad
jogger trots up to the Wales Vieweditorial door. The jogger pulls off his
beanie and a mop of curls springs out,
a wide smile not far below. Ive been
up the Taff Trail, beams Matthew Rhys,
whos just been running along the
long-distance path that skirts the Cardiff
suburb where he was born. I love it, I
run up there whenever Im back home.
The 39-year-old radiates health and
happiness. Hes a delightful, energising
presence, talking quickly in his mellifluous
baritone. He throws in impressionsand accents for free (many of them
American, because thats where hes
now based, in Los Angeles). He laughs,
a lot. Matthew Rhys is not an actor of
the tortured variety, clearly.
Life is good, he agrees. Hes currently
the star of one of the worlds biggest TV
shows, The Americans, in which he plays
a Soviet KGB spy living a chillingly tense
undercover existence in Washington DC
during the Cold War. Still, its not half
as scary as being Dylan Thomas. Rhysplayed the iconic poet in The Edge of
Love, a role which required him to be
one-third of a love-triangle with two of
the most beautiful stars of British film,
Keira Knightley and Sienna Miller. Tough
job? Yes, actually.
I was terrified! laughs Rhys. Everyone
in Wales has this incredibly strong sense
of who Dylan should be. But theres no
footage of him, weve only got his voice
recordings. So no-one really knows who
he is. When I was researching the role, Itried to read as many peoples accounts
of him as I could, to try and get an
image of him. I spoke to his daughter
Aeronwy as well, who gave me a good
few pointers. She said, His hands were
like two dead fish, which I thought was
wonderful!
As an actor, Rhys is awestruck by
Dylans dazzling way with words. But
does he also think the poet would have
So why does Dylan Thomasmean so much to Wales?
Who better to ask than
Matthew Rhys, the Cardiff-
born actor who played the
mercurial poet so brilliantly
in The Edge of Love.
Interview by Charles Williams
Being
Dylan
MainMatthew Rhys as Dylan Thomasin The Edge of Love
Opposite clockwise from top leftMatthew Rhys and Sienna Millerin The Edge of LoveSienna Miller and Kiera Knightleyfilming in WalesBest friends Matthew Rhys andIoan Gruffudd
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3visitwales.com
Thomas lived the life he wanted, on his ownterms. Thats quietly admired in the chapels.
Arts and cultureDylan Thomas
been an interesting chap to share
a pint with?
I do, actually, although from what I
read, not everyone who met him liked
him. He had the wit, along with the ever-
present Welsh darkness, and very little
patience.
So why does he remain such an iconic
figure to the Welsh? Ah, we love our
archetypes in Wales, says Rhys. The bigdrinker, the carouser, the no-good-boyo.
Dylans image fitted incredibly well. And
he was irreverent at a time you werent
supposed to be, the 1950s. Its not really
in the Welsh DNA. We havent got many
hellraisers, but Thomas stuck two fingers
up at it all and lived the life he wanted.
Richard Burton was exactly the same.
They lived their lives on their own terms.
In our nations psyche, thats quietly
admired in the chapels.
There was a modest amount of
roistering during the making of The
Edge of Love, which was filmed on
location in West Wales, land of Rhyss
own ancestors. I was determined to
put on a proper Welsh night, so I went
on full twee overdrive and found this
amazing pub in Aberaeron and I got a
Welsh folk band in, says Rhys. What was
so gratifying was how much they loved
it. The girls [Knightley and Miller] loved
Wales, they were like, Oh my God, we
need to move here!
If they had, the local farmers would
have remained utterly unfazed by two
of the worlds most beautiful actresses,reckons Rhys. They were certainly less
impressed by Rhyss acting than his local
farming connections. One farmer said to
me, I know who you are. Youre Kevin
Evanss cousin, arent you? He runs a
thousand acres up near Aberystwyth,
doesnt he? Beautiful dairy hes got...
Its a typical Welsh characteristic a
refusal to be impressed that never fails
to amuse Rhys, even when hes on the
receiving end which he is, every time
he comes back home and goes to the
pub with his school friends. They feel
almost duty-bound to make sure that if I
ever dream of thinking myself above my
station, I should be put back in my place
or lower, just to make sure.
Matthew Rhysgrew up in Cardiff,where both his parents wereteachers. He went to the sameWelsh-language school as hisbest friend Ioan Gruffudd, andthe pair trained together at RADA.He won acclaim in the hit US TVseries Brothers & Sistersandcurrently stars in the spy thriller
The Americans. His stage workincludes The GraduatewithKathleen Turner, several RoyalShakespeare Companyproductions, and a recent revivalof Look Back In Angerin New York. For an extended version of thisinterview, and to find out aboutMatthew Rhyss favourite placesin Wales, see visitwales.com
i
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Above from left
Laugharne Castle, Laugharne
Browns Hotel, Laugharne
Dylan Thomas
4 visitwales.com
Its almost like hazing, as they say inAmerica. You have to go through the first
15 minutes in the pub where youre torn
to bits, and then you can get on with
catching up.
Rhys went to his local Welsh-language
comprehensive school in Cardiff, where
he was the year below his best friend,
the actor Ioan Gruffudd. They went to
the same chapel, and competed in the
same school eisteddfod, the performing
arts competition in which almost every
Welsh child especially those in Welsh-
language schools takes part.Were kicked onto a stage, or into a
pulpit, from a young age, says Rhys. I
didnt always like it as a child, but when
you look back, its amazing. That level of
celebration of culture, combined with a
sense of tradition and history its great,
as long as it keeps evolving. And even
if you hate being on stage, somewhere
in your psyche it will help you. It
encourages confidence and teamwork,
which sounds like corporate clich, but
I genuinely believe it. Rhys followed Gruffudd to the Royal
Academy of Dramatic Art (RADA), an
experience they found both priceless and
shockingly hard. While their friends who
went to university seemed to be living
lives of raucous freedom, RADA was a
gruelling six days work a week, plus long
nights learning lines.
Rhys is now based in Los Angeles,
where hes part of an entire tribe of
Welsh actors that includes Ioan Gruffudd,Michael Sheen, Andrew Howard and
Catherine Zeta Jones.
I discovered an even greater group of
Welshies there during the Six Nations
[rugby championship], says Rhys.
Theres a pub in Santa Monica called the
Kings Head that shows the games live,
usually at around 5.30am. I remember
walking in and theres a sea of red, and
suddenly theres this ready-made Welsh
community. There are a lot of boys from
Merthyr Tydfil working in construction
there, strangely. Welshness and especially the Welsh
language is still central to who Rhys is.
Its also why, on this precious weekend
off in Cardiff, he doesnt mind pitching in
to help by opening major festivals at a
moments notice, for instance, which is
what he did the day before at the Welsh-
language festival Tafwyl.
Im happy to support when I can,
says Rhys. Welsh is my first language, its
what I speak to my family and to friends
like Ioan. But whenever I do somethinglike speaking at a festival, theres always
someone at the back I know, one of my
school friends, who catches my eye and
does this
At this point Rhys mimes a series of
magnificently obscene gestures that,
mercifully, cannot be recreated in print.
Its the Welsh putting me back in my
place. He laughs again. Happens all the
time!
r In Country Sleep:where to stay on
the Thomas trail
Browns Hotel, LaugharneDylans favourite haunt has beenrestored and reborn as a boutiquehotel and oozes glamour.browns-hotel.co.uk
1 Coastguard Cottage, RhossiliDylan and his school friends camecamping here, but you can stay inthis National Trust-run cottage.nationaltrustcottages.co.uk
Quay West, New QuayThis clifftop holiday caravan parkoffers lovely views of the harbourtown that inspired Under Milk Wood.haven.com
Trehyddion Barns, CarmarthenshireDylans summer holidays werespent on rural farms like this, withLlansteffans sandy beach and castle
on the doorstep.trehyddionbarns.com
Ty Mawr, near AberaeronWhen filming The Edge of Lovethestars stayed at this gorgeous Georgianmanor in the Aeron valley.tymawrmansion.co.uk
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5visitwales.com
The Dylan ThomasBoathouse
The poets lovely waterside home hosts
a variety of events and intimate readings
throughout the Dylan Thomas 100
Festival. Also look out for Dylans writing
shed as it tours the country.All year, Laugharne and locations
across Wales
dylanthomasboathouse.com
Peter Blake Exhibition:Llareggub
The venerable pop artist Peter Blake is
passionate about Dylans play for voices
Under Milk Wood, and this show includes
portraits of each of the 60 characters, and
collages depicting the fictional village of
Llareggub.
Until 16th March
National Museum Cardiff
museumwales.ac.uk/en/Cardiff
The Laugharne Weekends
Three weekends in Laugharne celebrate
Dylan Thomass life and work, each
themed to echo Dylans favourite art
forms just the kind of events Dylan
himself would have enjoyed. Therell be
Poetry and Biography, curated by PattiSmith and Simon Armitage (11th 13th
April), Comedy and Radio, curated by
Robin Ince and Stuart Maconie
(19th 21st September), and Music and
Film, curated by Richard James and Euros
Childs (26th 28th September).
Laugharne
dylanthomas100.org
A Dylan Odyssey
This series of literary tourism events
follows Dylans steps to Wales, Oxford and
New York. They will involve kayaking, pony
trap rides, jazz music, Beat poetry, and the
company of contemporary writers such as
Owen Sheers and Gillian Clarke.May September, Wales and worldwide
literaturewales.org /a-dylan-odyssey/
Dylan Thomas Exhibition
The National Library of Wales has a
major exhibition from its archive of Dylan
Thomas material, which includes unique
personal items, alongside visiting items
from the United States.
28th June 20th December
Aberystwyth
llgc.org.uk
Lleisiau/Voices
This live, multi-national event celebrates
the history of vocal and oral traditions. Its
presented at Chapter in Cardiff, with live
streaming from Browns Hotel in Laugharne
and the Chelsea Hotel in New York.
20th September
Chapter Arts Centre, Cardiff
chapter.org
Swansea Festival of Musicand the Arts
This annual festival includes the Wales
premiere ofA Dylan Thomas Trilogyby
John Corigliano, and the world premiere
of Karl Jenkins Three Images from
Dylan Thomaswith the Russian NationalPhilharmonic Orchestra.
4th 18th October, Swansea
swanseafestival.org
The Dylan Thomas Festival
This annual festival, held over an event-
packed two weeks, is the centrepiece of
the year-long celebrations that make up
Dylan Thomas 100.
27th October 9th November, Swansea
dylanthomas.com
A Child s Christmas in Wales
Michael Bogdanovs adaptation of the
classic tale will be performed by the Wales
Theatre Company at theatres
all over Wales.
November & December, across Wales
thewalestheatrecompany.com
Dylan Thomas is Waless greatest poet and writer. To mark the centenary of Dylans
birth, in a small house in Swansea in 1914, the Dylan Thomas 100 Festival is a year-
long celebration of his life and work. The festivals Royal Patron is the Prince of Wales
who has joined in the festival spirit by recording a special reading of his favourite
Dylan Thomas poem, Fern Hill. There are hundreds of events, here and around the
world. These are just a few highlights, but do check the website for the latest info:
dylanthomas100.org
Dylan Thomas 100 is the perfect way to
introduce the places and characters in my
grandfathers poetry and prose, and for
people to discover why the quirky villages
and seaside towns inspired him so much. I
hope that the festival will spark a passion
for words in a new generation and leave a
lasting legacy for Wales.
Hannah Ellis, honorary patron
and Dylan Thomass granddaughter
Arts and cultureDylan Thomas
Dylan Thomas 100
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6 visitwales.com
Sometimes even Hollywood stars have toplay best supporting actor to the scenery.
Wales has been the location for hundreds
of lms. Here we pay tribute to our most
scene-stealing performances.
Hollywood
Whale of a timeMatthew Rhys filmed The Edge of Love
(2008) in several locations around West
Wales, most notably New Quay. Thislovely harbour town was the inspiration
for Dylan Thomass classic Under Milk
Wood, although the 1972 movie version,
starring Richard Burton, was filmed down
the coast at Lower Fishguard, as was the
1955 film Moby Dick.
discoverceredigion.co.uk
visitpembrokeshire.com
pembrokeshirecoast.org.uk
Holy water!In the 2012 movie The Dark Knight Rises,
the Batcave is hidden behind the 88-foot
(27 metre) curtain of thundering water
known as Henrhyd Falls, the highest
of dozens of cascades in the western
Brecon Beacons.
midwalesmyway.com
breconbeacons.org
The Dai Vinci codeMargam Park is an 850-acre country
park with its own 12th-century abbey
and neo-Gothic mansion. Its also a slice
of sun-dappled Renaissance Tuscany
when theyre filming the hit US drama
Da Vincis Demons.
visitswanseabay.com
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7visitwales.com
Arts and cultureWales on film
Welsh wizardryShell Cottage, in which Harry and his
companions shelter in Harry Potter and
the Deathly Hallows, was built on the
edge of Freshwater Wests mile-long
(1.6 km) beach, where Russell Crowe also
came to film Robin Hood. Key scenes
from the 2012 fairytaleSnow White and
the Huntsman, starring Kristen Stewart,were shot nearby on Marloes Sands ...
which also featured in the 1968 historical
epic The Lion in Winter, starring Peter
OToole and Katharine Hepburn.
visitpembrokeshire.com
pembrokeshirecoast.org.uk
Dark forcesOur own Nordic-noir-style TV detective
series is so good, we filmed it twice. The
Welsh version, Y Gwyll, was broadcast on
S4C in 2013 while the English Hinterland,
which was shot simultaneously, goes
out on BBC4 in 2014. The series location
remains the same: the hauntingly
beautiful landscape around Aberystwyth.
discoverceredigion.co.uk
Star quality
Theres a bit in the 2007 fantasyStardustwhen its star Claire Danes treks high
above a magical lake. Thatll be Llyn y
Fan Fach, a beautiful glacial lake on the
western edge of the Brecon Beacons.
discovercarmarthenshire.com
breconbeacons.org
Moat pointsCaerphilly Castle is the second largest
castle in Britain, and in 1995 Hollywood
big cheese Robert Downey Jr was here
to film the tragi-comic romp Restoration.
Another key location in the film was
Tretower Court near Crickhowell which,
in 2004, also welcomed Johnny Depp in
The Libertine.
thevalleys.co.uk, midwalesmyway.com
Twin peaks
So spectacular are the mountains ofSnowdonia, film-makers often use them
to represent other exotic, far-flung
locations: China in Lara Croft Tomb
Raider: The Cradle of Life (2003) and
The Inn of the Sixth Happiness(1958),
Kazakhstan for the 1999 Bond movie
The World Is Not Enough, and a rather
convincing Khyber Pass in the 1968
comedy Carry On Up The Khyber.
visitsnowdonia.info
eryri-npa.gov.uk
to Holyhead
Main
Freshwater West, Pembrokeshire, the setting for
Shell Cottage in Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallows
Licensed By: Warner Bros. Entertainment Inc. All Rights Reserved
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visitwales.com8
Island paradise
The thing about islands isthat you cant look at onewithout wondering, even
for a fleeting moment,what it would feel like to bethere, standing on its cliffs
among the wheeling clouds
of seabirds, looking back atwhere you are now.
MainSkomer Island, Pembrokeshire
Inset left to rightAtlantic puffinBluebells on Skomer Island, PembrokeshireRamsey Island, Pembrokeshire
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9visitwales.com
As you meander the 870 mile(1,400 km) Wales Coast Path, youllcount around 50 Welsh islands. You
can walk to some of them at low tide.
Others shimmer tantalisingly on the far
horizon. Some are near-impossible to
reach, unless you happen to be an expert
cliff-climber or, ideally, a puffin. But youcan visit many of the best ones, and even
stay on a few.
Skomer is a cracking example, part of a
cluster of little islands off Pembrokeshire
that support some the worlds most
Coast & countryIslands
important bird colonies. Its a fabulous
day-trip across the turquoise waters of
Jack Sound, where even the seabed is a
protected nature reserve. In summer the
island throngs with guillemots, razorbills
and puffins, while fulmars and kittiwakes
fill the air like flurries of snowflakes. Grey
seals bask on the rocks below clifftopsthat offer one of the most spectacular
displays of wild flowers in Britain.
You can land on nearby Ramsey Island
too its a beautifully untouched RSPB
nature reserve or take a rib ride around
its reefs and rapids. Youll definitely see
seals, probably dolphins and porpoises,
and possibly even whales and sharks.
Back on Skomer, if you stay the night
youll witness another of natures most
incredible sights: tens of thousands of
nocturnal Manx shearwaters ghosting
back to their burrows. Theres another major colony of
these incredible little birds on Bardsey
Island, which lies off the tip of the Llyn
Peninsula. There are eight self-catering
cottages on this Island of 20,000 Saints,
which has long been a spiritual refuge.
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visitwales.com10
Talking of which, theres still an
active monastery of Benedictine
monks on Caldey Island, another
hugely popular day-trip from nearbyTenby. You can also experience
blissful island isolation just five
miles (8 km) from Cardiff city
centre on Flat Holm, another major
seabird sanctuary.
Its easy to get besotted with
Welsh islands. The TV scriptwriter
Carla Lane bought a tiny one of
her own, St Tudwals East, off the
southern tip of the Llyn Peninsula,
and turned it into a wildlife
sanctuary. Then the adventurer
Bear Grylls bought its neighbour,
St Tudwals West, and talk about
getting away from it all spends
family holidays on its few clifftop
acres.You dont have to splash out on
a whole island, though. You can
borrow one of ours. Like we say,
there are plenty to go round.
walescoastpath.gov.uk
welshwildlife.org /skomer-skokholm/
flatholmisland.com
bardsey.org
caldey-island.co.uk
rspb.org.uk/reserves/guide/r/
ramseyisland/
i
Top from leftBardsey Island, Llyn PeninsulaLlanddwyn Island, Isle of Anglesey
r Water beds
Mother love
Caerfai Farm, St DavidsCottages, yurts, caravan and camp site,cheesemaking and all on a stunning clifftoplocation, just around the headland from
Ramsey Island.caerfaifarm.co.uk
Cenarth Falls Holiday Park, Cenarth
This five-star holiday park has caravans andcottages, plus great facilities for tourers and
campers, just a few minutes walk from thefamous falls on the River Teifi.cenarth-holipark.co.uk
Fog Horn Cottage, Flat HolmDont forget your toothbrush its a long swimback to the mainland from this stylish three-bed
self-catering cottage.flatholmisland.com
Plas Rhianfa, Isle of Anglesey
This architectural gem has five-star luxuryoverlooking the Menai Strait on Walessbiggest island.
chateaurhianfa.com
Ty Newydd Country Hotel, HirwaunThis comfortable hotel is right on the thresholdof Waterfall Country, and if you like whiskywith your water, Penderyn, Waless only distillery,
is nearby.tynewyddcountryhotel.co.uk
The biggest Welsh island by far is Anglesey, which was finally joinedto the mainland by Thomas Telfords magnificent suspension bridgein 1826. The island was a stronghold of druids during the Romaninvasion, and a vital source of food during later wars leading toits nickname of Mn Mam Cymru the Mother of Wales. Nowadays, its a favourite holiday destination, with attractionsthat include Plas Newydd stately home, a sea zoo, copper mines,
the most perfect medieval castle at Beaumaris, and a village called deep breath Llanfairpwllgwyngyllgogerychwyrndrobwllllantysiliogogogoch.
But its the 125 mile (201 km) coastline that is the islands biggestdraw, packed with fabulous beaches, nature reserves, and the mostromantic spot in Wales, Llanddwyn Island, where theres an oldlighthouse and a ruined chapel dedicated to the Welsh patron saintof love, St Dwynwen. No wonder Prince William and Kate made theirfirst home here.
visitanglesey.co.uk
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11visitwales.com
Fall
What is it aboutwaterfalls? Theressomething surreally magical
about a torrent of water
plunging off a cliff and
into a crystal pool. At
the western edge of theBrecon Beacons, in a bit of
Wales known as Waterfall
Country, three rivers the
Mellte, Hepste and Nedd
Fechan have carved their
way through soft rocks to
create steep wooded gorges
full of caves and cascades.
Its popular with white-
water kayakers and, in
summer, wetsuit-clad
canyoning groups, but
its also a brilliant place
to experience the thrill of
walking behind a curtain of
thundering water notablyat Sgwd yr Eira, the famous
waterfall of snow.
Although the greatest
concentration of falls is
here, the highest are up
in the high mountains:
the Devils Appendix in
Snowdonia and Pistyll y Llyn
in the Cambrian range. And
the most spectacular? Well,
thats a matter of opinion,
but the 239 feet (73 metre)
high Pistyll Rhaeadr, in the
Berwyn Mountains, has the
advantage of a car park two
minutes walk from the base.And to be fair, it is utterly
spellbinding.
breconbeacons.org
midwalesmyway.com
pistyllrhaeadr.co.uk
visitsnowdonia.info
discoverceredigion.co.uk
Coast & countryWaterfalls
at your feetBet you didnt bargain for a waterfall of
snow and the Devils Appendix to beamong the sights on your visit to Wales.
Sgwd yr Eira, Brecon Beacons National Park
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beachperfect
The
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Llwyb
rArfordirCym
Wa
lesCoast
Pa t
13visitwales.com
The Wales Coast Path is the longest continuous coastal path
in the world. Along its 870 mile (1,400 km) length there are
hundreds of harbours, coves, inlets and, of course, beaches.
Lots of them. And one of them will be your favourite. So
whichll it be? Here are ten to get you started.
Abersoch, SnowdoniaTheres always a lively family feel to
Abersoch, one of our best watersports
centres. Its at its most vibrant during
the August Regatta which, apart
from all the serious sailing stuff,
features raft-racing, crab-catching
and sandcastle-building contests.
visitsnowdonia.info
Barafundle, PembrokeshireIts impossible to pick our prettiest
beach, but this Pembrokeshire gem,
backed by dunes and pine trees, alwayscrops up. Theres something almost
Caribbean about Barafundle, which
is all the better for being a half-mile
(0.8 km) walk from the nearest car park.
visitpembrokeshire.com
Barmouth, SnowdoniaHuge and picturesque, Barmouth
beach is always popular but never
overcrowded. Barmouth itself is a proper
British seaside resort, complete with
trampolines, ice creams, arcade games,donkey rides and a vintage railway.
visitsnowdonia.info
Benllech, Isle of AngleseyThis small holiday town is set on
a crescent-shaped bay, with fine
sand that stretches for miles. Its
also blissfully easy to get to, even
for pushchairs and wheelchairs.
visitanglesey.co.uk
Llangrannog, CeredigionTheres nothing flashy about the
village its just a cluster of houses
wedged between two headlands,
with waves lapping at their toes. The
coastal footpath leads you through
clouds of wild flowers that are alive
with butterflies in summer.
discoverceredigion.co.uk
Cefn Sidan, CarmarthenshireThis whopping eight-mile (12 km) beach
has plenty of room for everyone, and
young nature detectives can climbthe dunes to track down grasshoppers
and other mini beasts. Its all part
of Pembrey Country Park, which has
play areas and an equestrian centre,
dry ski slope and toboggan run.
discovercarmarthenshire.com
Porthdinllaen, SnowdoniaOnly locals are allowed to drive to this
perfect little harbour hamlet. But never
mind its a lovely short walk along the
beach, or through Nefyns famouslybeautiful golf course, to reach it. Its an
idyllic cove and natural harbour, with
the added bonus of a cracking pub, the
Ty Coch Inn, which has just been voted
one of the worlds best beach bars.
visitsnowdonia.info
Rhossili, Gower PeninsulaWell, we had to mention our cover star,
didnt we? Rhossilis three-mile (4.8 km)
golden sands come with a genuine
shipwreck, and if you time the tides
right, theres a fabulous walk out to the
promontory known as Worms Head.
visitswanseabay.com
Southerndown,Vale of GlamorganThe Glamorgan Heritage Coasts multi-
layered cliffs occasionally drop down into
sandy bays. This is a favourite with surfersand families, and theres a great clifftop
walk to the ruins of Dunraven Castle.
visitthevale.com
Tenby, PembrokeshireWere cheating a bit here, since
theres not one fantastic beach in
Tenby, but three. The Rough Guide
to Walesdescribes this pretty little
town as everything a seaside resort
should be and it was recently voted
one of the UKs top five beachdestinations by Tripadvisor.
visitpembrokeshire.com
Coast & countryBeaches
walescoastpath.gov.uk
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Wild
MainYnys-hir RSPB Reserve, near Machynlleth
Opposite clockwise from top leftDolphin-watching off the Ceredigion CoastWales Coast Path, near LlangrannogRed kite
There are two things you need to understand about themaverick TV presenter Chris Packham. Firstly, hes a properhardcore naturalist, with a phenomenal passion for a subject
that he knows inside-out. Secondly, he was an original 1970s
punk, with the hair and anti-authority attitude to match.
The 52-year-old from Southampton is now the mainstay
of TV wildlife programmes, but the teenage punk is never far
beneath the surface. Hes famous for nipping song titles ofhis favourite bands into his drily witty narration: The Smiths,
The Clash, and the Manic Street Preachers have all made
unexpected cameos.
Packham even managed to slip 51 David Bowie song titles
into the 2012 series of BBCSpringwatch, just for the ridiculous
joy of it.
The series was based at the RSPB reserve at Ynys-hir, where
for three years the BBC carried out its biggest and most
complex outside broadcast, with a crew of 100 descending
on the impossibly pretty Dyfi Estuary in remotest Mid Wales.
The spiky charm of Chris Packhamhas
made him one of Britains best-lovednaturalists. And he thinks that what Wales
really needs is well, some beavers.
at heart
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How did you enjoy your time at Ynys-hir?
It was fantastic, a real treat. The RSPB reserve itselfis beautiful to look at, and its got a range of habitats
fresh water, the coastal water, the estuary, the oak
woodland, the bog all in a relatively compact site.
And this brings with it a great diversity of species,
which really paid off, because we had some great
stories and contributors, both animals and human.
The RSPB and the local people were extraordinarily
hospitable, too, so we very much enjoyed our time
there.
So it wasnt your first time down these parts?Heavens no! Ive travelled in Wales a tremendous
amount. The first time was when I was 15 yearsold, in the mid-1970s, when I caught the National
Express bus and went to Cwmystwyth to spend a
couple of weeks in the spring, to see what remained
of the red kites. The same summer I went back to
Llangrannog to warden some peregrine falcons,
which were very endangered at the time.
Both species have bounced back since then,
thankfully.
Red kites are incredibly common in Mid Wales now.
Can you overdo the re-introduction thing?No. But you have to expect change. Weve livedthrough a time when kites were very rare, and
that had an impact on all the other creatures
around them. When you put an animal back into
an environment, everything has to rebalance. Kites
are largely scavengers, though, and no science has
so far proved that their re-introduction has had a
negative impact on other birds. Ultimately whats
right is to have as many species that can live in an
area, living in it. Thats why re-introduction is overall
a good idea because its trying to rebuild the proper
biodiversity of that region.
What about beavers? In parts of Wales theres acampaign to bring them backYes! This ought to have happened years ago! Beavers
will be great news for Wales on many counts. Firstly,
they will have a profoundly positive impact on
biodiversity, making it much better for fish, insects,
reptiles and birds of many species. Secondly, theyll
be a great draw for tourism, because people like
BBCsSpringwatchchose Ynys-hiras its base for very good reason:its one of the best places in Walesto see birds, bugs and butterfliesin a gorgeous setting of oakwoodland with wet grassland andsaltmarshes. rspb.org.uk
i RSPB Ynys-hir
Coast & countryWildlife
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beavers and will come and see them.
And further, if they do present a problem
to any of our human interests, which
is unlikely, we have learned over many
years how to manage them. So I really
hope this progresses quickly and we get
these animals back.
Talking of tourism, what can we do astourists to reduce our impact on theenvironment?
If you go to Wales, spend money inWales! Spend money in the local B&Bs,
hotels, pubs and restaurants. Try and
put as much money back into the local
community as possible. So dont eat in
a restaurant where theyre selling food
from the Caribbean, go somewhere
where youre eating Welsh lamb and
Welsh vegetables. Thats the responsible
thing to do. Make it fruitful for the
people who actually live and work there.
Sheep farming is not an easy business, so
if you go to a pub where theyre selling
genuinely locally-sourced food, thenthat pays dividends for that landscape.
And its the landscape which provides
the fundamental building blocks of
everything that lives on it and in it.
Some environmentalists think weve gotfar too many sheep, dont they?Yes, and theyre right, but its not specific
to Wales. The whole of the UK is a
man-modified landscape. The uplands
were cleared of trees a long, long time
ago. Theyve been drained and thegrassland has been improved for the
benefit of sheep. Sheep do overgraze,
which prevents the natural regeneration
of trees. So yes, sheep have an impact.
Equally, for a long time theyve been a
very important part of farming in Wales,
and they play a role, too. Its about trying
to balance the benefits and needs of
farming, and the benefits of putting the
land back as it was.
So youd like to see tracts of Walesrestored to what it once was: Atlanticrainforest?Of course, and tracts is the right word.
Not all of it. Im quite happy to support
sheep farmers, too. Obviously Id like
them to modify the way they do some
things, and Im happy to pay for them to
do that. But tracts of Atlantic rainforest
running in from the Welsh coast would
be tremendous. Places like Ynys-hir have
tiny fragments, and it would be nice tosee them a lot more extensive.
What about our other habitats? Shouldwe treasure our bogs as much as ourmountains?Everyone loves mountains, and they do
make a more spectacular postcard than
the average bog, but to the average
naturalist theres a lot going on in the less
attractive landscapes. I remember going
out on Tregaron Bog for the first time
in the 1970s and being really excited by
that great, open, muddy wetland coveredin lichens and teeming with birds. It
was fantastic, and equally worthy of
protection.
Do you, as a naturalist, try and harnessthe power of being on the telly?I dont consider myself a celebrity, Im
just a bloke who talks about wildlife on
TV. But theres a very strong vocational
element in everything I do. I want some
of my own enthusiasm and passion for
the subject to rub off, because I wantas many people as possible to look after
our landscape. And ultimately thats why
I get up in the morning and do things
likeSpringwatch. Im trying to say to that
audience, look, this is brilliant, its in your
back yard, have some of it for yourself.
And when youve learnt to love it, look
after it. Thats my mantra.
Chris Packhams Wales
Wales is a very rich and compact area,
so it has a tremendous amount tooffer in terms of natural history (Imalso keen on history, by the way, soIve been to all the castles, too).My first trips to Wales were on thebus as a teenager, but as soon asI could drive myself, I was away. Iremember with great fondness myfirst trip to Skomer Island off thePembrokeshire coast, which wasjust magical. Nearby are Bosherston
Lily Ponds which, in summer, is oneof the most beautiful places in theUK, without a shadow of a doubt.One year I spent a summer lookingat all the species of orchid I couldfind, and I went to the Great Ormenear Llandudno to look at dark redhelleborine, which are very rare.Newborough Warren on Anglesey
is one of my favourite places in theUK. Sand dune systems are few
and far between these days, andNewborough is a beautiful place fullof fantastic plants and birds.Theres so much more to explore,though. Id love to have a couple ofmonths off with my friend [fellownaturalist] Iolo Williams as my guide,so he could take me to all the placesI havent been.visitpembrokeshire.com
visitllandudno.org.uk
visitanglesey.co.uk
i
Clockwise from top leftDyfi Estuary, near MachynllethNewborough Warren, Anglesey
Presenter, Chris PackhamDolphin, Ceredigion coast
OtterBluebell woodland near Aberystwyth
Tintern Forest, Wye Valley
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OspreysOspreys nest from April to late summer on the
Cors-dyfi reserve near Machynlleth. Other birds
of prey regularly seen include red kite, honey
buzzard and marsh and hen harriers. Theres
also a herd of water buffalo that help to
manage the wetlands. dyfiospreyproject.com
DolphinsAlthough dolphins can be regularly seen fromthe shore, the Cardigan Bay Marine Wildlife
Centre organises boat trips from April onwards.
cbmwc.org
OttersVisitors often report seeing otters at the lovely
Gilfach Farm reserve near Rhayader. The best
time to visit is October to December when
otters come to the waterfalls to chase the
leaping salmon. rwtwales.org
Fields of orchidsSituated above the beautiful Wye Valley, the
Pentywn Farm reserve provides commanding
views. Early summer sees thousands of green-
winged orchids in spectacular wildflower
meadows.gwentwildlife.org
Red kitesOnce on the edge of extinction, there are now
an estimated 1,000 breeding pairs of red kites
in Wales. Feeding stations where visitors can
experience these magnificent birds close up
include Gigrin Farm and the Red Kite FeedingCentre in the west of the Brecon Beacons
National Park.gigrin.co.uk, redkiteswales.com
PuffinsThere are an estimated 16,000 puffins and
300,000 Manx shearwaters on the world-
renowned Skomer and Skokholm islands, which
are also home to large numbers of grey seals.
Boats run daily from March to December.
welshwildlife.org
Seabirds that have migrated50,000 milesWith well over 1,000 nesting pairs of sandwich
terns, Cemlyn on Anglesey is an internationally
important site for seabirds. The arctic tern,
which also nests here, migrates up to 50,000
miles (80,467 km) every year between the
Arctic and Antarctic.
northwaleswildlifetrust.org.uk
A festival of butterfliesOver 30 species of butterfly can be found in
the dramatic former quarry of Llanymynech,
smack bang on the border between Wales
and England. Fortunately the local wildflife
trust have produced a guide, so you can tell
your Grizzled Skipper from your White Letter
Hairstreak.
shropshirewildlifetrust.org.uk
Magical bluebell woodsCarpets of bluebells cover the ancientwoodlands in many parts of Wales, but few
reach the dazzling heights of Coed y Felin, just
outside Mold in Flintshire. Down south try the
Coed Dyrysiog reserve just outside Brecon.
northwaleswildlifetrust.org.uk,
brecknockwildlifetrust.org.uk
Autumn leaf splendourFor autumnal blazes of colour, the valleys
of South East Wales rival the forests of
New England. The Silent Valley reserve near
Ebbw Vale is a perfect example, while thePwll-y-Wrach reserve near Talgarth has
spectacular autumn colours in ancient
woodland running down to plunging
waterfalls along the River Enig.
gwentwildlife.org, brecknockwildlifetrust.org.uk
Coast & countryDays out
Soaring red kites, frolicking dolphins and leaping salmon: Wales has
just the kind of wildlife that grabs the imagination. And its all easy
to spot, says Phil Hurstof Wildlife Trusts Wales. wtwales.org
Ten wild days out in Wales
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Everythings
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There are far too many lovely
gardens and environmental
projects to squeeze into thispostage stamp of magazinespace. But here are someselected highlights.
Dyffryn Gardens,Vale of GlamorganImagine a 55-acre house made of plants
and flowers. Landscape artist Thomas
Mawson created the gardens at Dyffryn
as a collection of rooms in the shadow ofa grand Victorian mansion house made
of more traditional building material.
nationaltrust.org.uk/dyffryn-gardens
National Botanic Gardenof Wales, CarmarthenshireAs if building the biggest, striking single
span glasshouse in the world wasnt
enough, the old grounds of 17th-
century Middleton Hall is a great place
to discover flora and fauna from all over
the world. Behind the scenes there area whole host of environmental projects
going on too.
gardenofwales.org.uk
Aberglasney House and Gardens,CarmarthenshireThe origins of this magnificent Queen
Anne style house date back to medieval
times. A major restoration project
includes an Elizabethan Cloister Garden,
Pool Garden, Lower and Upper Walled
Gardens and Ninfarium an exotic
glass-roofed atrium with orchids, palms
and magnolias inspired by the gardens
of Ninfa, south of Rome.
aberglasney.org
Llanerchaeron, CeredigionBuilt by John Nash (architect of
Buckingham Palace), the walled
kitchen garden of this minor gentry
estate functions as it did 200 years
ago providing abundant organic fruit,
vegetables and herbs, which you can
buy in the shop at the house.
nationaltrust.org.uk/llanerchaeron
Brondanw, SnowdoniaSir Clough Williams-Ellis is renowned for
creating the remarkable village of nearby
Portmeirion, which features wonderful
exotic woodland well worth visiting.
The gardens of Brondanw are less well-
known, but were another of Cloughs
lifetime projects that create a unique
atmosphere with creative use of the
natural landscape.
brondanw.org
Plas Tan y Bwlch, SnowdoniaIts less catchy name is The Snowdonia
National Park Environmental Studies
Centre. This splendid country house,
which was lit by electricity from its own
hydro-electric source as far back as the1890s, benefits from striking Victorian
gardens featuring sloping lawns, large
conifers and bursts of colour from
rhododendron and azalea. There are
semi-wild woodland areas featuring
native flora and fauna intermingled
with exotic imports from further afield.
eryri-npa.gov.uk/study-centre/gardens
Veddw House, MonmouthshireDescribed as a modern romantic garden,
Veddw is the imaginative brainchild ofwriter Anne Wareham and photographer
Charles Hawes. It has won acclaim (Most
Original Garden 2012 in Readers Digest
magazine) and has courted controversy.
It almost demands a visit so you can
make your own mind up about its
innovative, environmentally-sympathetic
approach.
veddw.com
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Gone Green
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Coast & countryGardens
Centre for Alternative Technology, PowysImagine a one-stop resource of information
and demonstration regarding sustainable living.
Now stop imagining, because CAT covers
the lot, including several gardens offering
inspirational ideas on how you can maintainyour own flourishing patch of greenery.
cat.org.uk
Bodnant Garden, ConwyLike a giant horticultural stamp collection, a
diverse range of seeds and cuttings from all
over the world were collected over a century
ago to create the gardens of Bodnant. There
are formal terraces with views over the Conwy
Valley, the river Hiraethlyn runs through the
Dell, while the changing seasons offer dramatic
varieties of colour in the shrub borders.nationaltrust.org.uk/bodnant-garden
Erddig Hall, WrexhamAn impressive country house set in over a thousand
acres of land, the huge 18th-century walled garden
features rare fruit trees, the symmetry of a Victorian
parterre and one of the longest herbaceous
borders in Britain. Visitors can also book guided
environmental learning sessions.
nationaltrust.org.uk/erddig/
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A tale oftwo citiesOur two biggest cities are going places. Swanseaand Cardiffnow have football teams in
the Premiership for the first time in history, so we asked international wheelchair athlete
and television presenter Liam Holtto pay a visit and see how both cities line up.
Swansea
Its a chicken-and-egg situation. I cantwork out if the style of football SwanseaCity play confident, stylish, laid-back
comes from the city itself, or if it works
the other way: if some of that footballing
panache is rubbing off on the city.
Either way, theres a definite buzz
about the place, which we feel the
moment we set foot outside theSwansea Marriott, a waterfront hotel
which is perfectly placed for exploring
the citys main attractions.
We start with a history lesson at the
National Waterfront Museum, which tells
the story of industry and innovation in
Wales, now and over the last 300 years.
Its a very interactive place, with a perfect
combination of original artifacts and
touch-screen computer displays, which
allow people to explore deeper into
the exhibits. Its particularly great forkids, as they can work in a technological
environment that appeals to them.
After all that science, were in the
mood for some art, so we head to the
nearby Mission Gallery, which crams a
huge amount of creative power into a
relatively small space.
The same could be said of Pierre
Donahue, a local singer-songwriter who
plays percussion for The Dukes Box,
an extraordinary wait for it human
jukebox. Basically theyve taken a tiny
vintage caravan, sawn off the front and
replaced it with a Perspex sheet and
jukebox-style buttons. People push a
pound into the slot, choose their song,
and the live band play it!
The Dukes Box has played festivals all
over Europe, and now Pierre has founded
his own left-field event in Swansea, analternative Dylan Thomas celebration
called the Do Not Go Gentle festival.
Its a celebration of the legendary Welsh
poet in his home suburb of the Uplands,
Swansea, explains Pierre. We aim to be
a festival Dylan might have liked, and yes
that involves beer, but it also involves
cosy and atmospheric venues, great acts
and the people of Swansea who first
inspired him to write all those years ago.
Right, thats culture and science ticked,
so now Im off to get physical. Swanseais mad about sport, whether its regional
rugby and football at the Liberty Stadium,
county cricket at St Helens, or surfing
on the Gower Peninsula. If youre an
outdoors person and into watersport
then you have to visit 360, a new
multisport activity centre that provides
beach and watersports all year round, no
matter the weather, just along the beach
from the city centre.
Its not just a sports centre, either
theres a good caf, which adds a
social aspect and opens the beach up
to everyone from dog walkers to kite
flyers. Its also worth mentioning the
accessibility, too: the beach is normally
the natural enemy of the wheelchair
but 360 conquers this with multiple
accessible toilets and changing rooms,
and its the first beachfront venue inWales to have a Changing Places facility
hoists, changing tables, etc for those
who need extra support.
Sitting at a beach caf, right next to
the sand, watching people kayaking and
playing beach volleyball its not quite
how I imagined Swansea to be. But I like
it, a lot.
marriott.co.uk
museumwales.ac.uk/en/swansea
missiongallery.co.ukthedukesbox.com
donotgogentlefestival.com
360swansea.co.uk
Clockwise from top left360 Beach and Watersports
Dylan Thomass Captain Cat, Swansea marinaMission Gallery
National Waterfront MuseumMission Gallery
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Cities & townsA tale of two cities
Perhaps more than anyother Welsh city, Swanseacares about its food (itboasts the biggest andbest covered market inWales) and this is reflectedin lots of deliciouslyindependent-mindedplaces to eat.Truffle Restaurant(truffle-swansea.co.uk)feels a bit like going to ahouse party, thanks to itsbring your own boozepolicy and utter lack of airsand graces. The staff andcustomers enjoy a bit ofbanter (I was made fun offor not ordering a moremanly starter!), its great
value and the dessertswere awesome.I liked Mosaic(mosaicswansea.com)even more: a quirkymodern restaurant whichin terms of independentbusinesses just gets it,from the decor to themenu (the names alone
are hilarious!). During theday its a laid-back lounge,but in the evening theytransform the place intoa lively tapas restaurant,with projections on thewalls and live music on araised stage above the bar.The food at the Grape& Olive(swansea.
grapeandolive.co.uk) isntas innovative, but givenits location the top floorof Waless tallest building its worth a visit just forthe amazing views.Finally, you cant visitSwansea without a tripto local institution.Joes Ice Cream Parlour
(joes-icecream.com)founded in 1922 by theson of Italian immigrants.Joe Cascarini introducedthe familys secret ice-cream recipe to the cityand it has never left.Quite simply its the mostamazing ice cream I haveEVER had!
Eating out in Swansea
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Clockwise from leftCardiff CastleWales Millennium Centre, Cardiff BayMillennium StadiumRoyal Arcade
Cardiff
Ithought I knew Cardiff pretty well.I moved here nine years ago, and Idefinitely consider it to be my home. Intrue fashion though, when a city becomesyour home you kind of take it for granted.You dont really explore what it has tooffer its just there! So it was fascinatingto spend a weekend in Cardiff as a touristagain and re-discover just how great it is.
All the icons are correct and present:
the castle, the Millennium Stadiumwhich dominates the central skyline, the
neoclassical Civic Centre, the shiny new
shopping malls.
Since Im being a tourist, I start at the
top of most visitors list: Cardiff Castle.
With over 2,000 years of history, its
an incredible mash-up of all the major
historical events that have shaped
Cardiff, from Roman times, through
Norman conquest, to the fabulous wealth
that coal brought here.
The 3rd Marquess of Bute was thebiggest influence on how the castle looks
today. Bute hired the flamboyant (and
expensive) designer William Burges to
work with him in the design of his living
quarters, which reflect their fascination
with all things medieval. With Burgess
vision and Butes money, there were no
limits to their sumptuous designs.
Its the little details that you remember,
though: I particularly liked the little
statues of monkeys reading books, which
were apparently Butes way of mocking
Darwins theory of evolution.
Cardiff itself continues to evolve. The
weekends highlight for me was exploring
the independent businesses that are
flourishing in the old arcades which
intertwined with the more commercial
shops. The eclectic shops within each
arcade have a real charm about them,
from local skate shop City Surf to Spillers
Records (opened in 1894 the oldestrecord shop in the world). I even took the
opportunity to do some research for my
wedding in Hubbards Cupboard in Castle
Arcade, which was a bit of a dangerous
move with my fiance with me!
And Cardiff isnt just about the city
centre any more: the individual boroughs
are emerging strongly and making names
for themselves places like Cathays,
Roath, Canton and Pontcanna offer
their own high streets by day and an
alternative night out for people lookingfor something a bit different.
A good example of this new generation
of pioneers is Simon Thomas, who owns
a record shop called Catapult in the Duke
Street Arcade. But its more than that. Its
also a record label, and a clothing brand.
His latest business is a pop-up restaurant
called Chucks, which shone brightly last
summer in an old disused dairy.
Simon, like many of the bright young
independents in Cardiff, is on a mission:
to inspire. Im not in it for the money,
he laughs. I do it because I want to. I
started Chucks simply because it was the
kind of place I wanted to eat. But at the
same time a business like mine gives the
chance to develop the careers of other
Cardiff locals, whether theyre musicians
on the label or chefs in the kitchen.
Im not against commercial
businesses, says Simon. I just want
people to have the choice of wherethey eat and shop a quality, credible
alternative to the mainstream.
Back at the hotel, Im thoroughly
enjoying my tourist trip to my home
town. Were staying at the Park Plaza,
a relaxed hotel right in the city centre,
with its own spa and health club. After a
couple of hours in the steam room and
the unique stainless steel pool, I feel like
a new man. At least, after the deep tissue
massage, I feel like Ive got a new pair of
shoulders. More than that, Ive seen myadopted home city in a whole new light.
And it feels really, really good.
millenniumstadium.com
cardiffcastle.com
citysurfshops.co.uk
spillersrecords.co.uk
hubbardscupboardonline.co.uk
catapult.co.uk
parkplazacardiff.com
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Im pretty easy going when it comes to things like this. Ialways approach accessibility with a where theres a willtheres a way attitude.
Over two weekends spent in Swansea and Cardiff I was
treated just as any visitor would be and thats how I like
it. I didnt encounter any obstacles in terms of wheelchair
access. Both hotels had rooms with plenty of wheeling
space and the bathrooms had all the necessary equipment.
Staff at all the restaurants were really accommodating
by allocating a table that was easy to get to and making
sure a chair was removed to enable me to roll straight in!
I was particularly impressed with Cardiff Castle. Itsa Grade I listed building with its origins dating back to
Roman times. You dont really expect to be able to access
all areas of the castle, but if theres a heritage building
demonstrating just what can be achieved with a sincere
commitment to accessibility, then Cardiff Castle is it. There
were lifts installed to allow wheelchair access not only
to the castle tunnels but also to the main rooms of the
mansion!
360 Beach & Watersports in Swansea offers genuinely
innovative levels of disabled access. Suddenly youve
got none of the usual worries: How am I going to get
changed? or How am I going to go to the toilet? Using abeach wheelchair eliminates further issues by enabling easy
access across the sand and into the sea. Its great to see a
visitor attraction offering such levels of inclusivity.
If youre looking to plan a visit to Wales and you need
sound advice regarding accessibility matters:
visitwales.com/explore/accessible-wales
Access all areasThink that a country known for its
coastline and castles might be off
limits for wheelchair users?
Cities & townsAccess all areas
Cardiff has all the big-name chains like JamiesandCarluccios, as well as a great selection of home-grownindependents. Milgi Lounge(milgilounge.com) is aperfect example: a vegetarian restaurant on City Road,a mile or so out of town. It has a real community feel,with locally sourced food and a clientele of all differentages and styles, so no one seems out of place. Their
cocktails are amazing, especially the Milgi Mojito, madewith elderflower and lychee. Its not just a restaurant,either: they hold live music and storytelling eveningsin the yurt in the rear garden, and art exhibitions andmarkets in the lane and garages behind.Mint & Mustard(mintandmustard.com) has a fantasticreputation locally for its South Indian cuisine, and nowIve been there I can see why! You dont just go there toeat; you go there for the complete dining experience.La Cuina(lacuina.co.uk) is a family-run Catalan placethats a deli by day and a restaurant by night. Itsrelatively new but already a hotspot with local foodies (it
was packed when we visited). Then theres Torre Coffee,another family business run by an Italian-Romanianhusband and wife team. The cakes are amazing, andtheyre especially welcoming for families and its rightopposite Cardiff Castle.
Eating out in Cardiff
For more information on Swansea and Cardiff visit:visitswanseabay.comand visitcardiff.com
Above Jamies Italian
AboveTV presenter Liam Holt
360 Beach and Watersports, Swansea
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Swansea regularly tops studentsatisfaction surveys of universitytowns, and its easy to see why studentslove it here. The whole city hugs the vast
crescent of Swansea Bay, giving a chilled-
out seaside vibe to the city by day, and
one of good-natured indulgence by
night, notably in the bars and clubs of
Wind Street and Kingsway.
So where to start? The new SA1
area is as good a place as any, a smart
waterfront development, crowned
with Waless tallest building, that has
transformed a post-War eyesore that ledDylan Thomas to describe his birthplace
as a lovely, ugly town.
Swansea has changed a lot since
Dylan lived here, and the city centre
has been thoroughly modernised,
undoing the damage done by wartime
bombing and, worse, hasty post-War
rebuilding. But hed still recognise several
local landmarks: the castle, museum
(swanseamuseum.co.uk), the excellent
covered market (swanseaindoormarket.
co.uk) and, of course, the house in whichhe was born (5cwmdonkindrive.com).
He might also be flattered to discover
that the old Guildhall is now the Dylan
Thomas Centre (dylanthomas.com).
Hopefully hed approve of some of the
newcomers, too, like the exotic indoor
rainforest that blossoms beneath the
striking pyramid hot-house of Plantasia
(plantasia.org), the hi-tech LC waterpark
(thelcswansea.com), and the NationalWaterfront Museum (museumwales.ac.uk
en/swansea), which tells the story of our
industrial and sea-faring past as well as
our technological future.
Swansea is a coastal gateway to an
unspoilt area of wild coastal countryside
to rival any other. Head west through
the chichi village of Mumbles, with its
boutiques and restaurants, and you
soon arrive on the Gower Peninsula
(visitswanseabay.com/gower), the first
place in Britain designated an Area Of
Outstanding Natural Beauty in 1949.Its got some truly wonderful beaches,
including Three Cliffs Bay and the huge
expanse of Rhossili (see cover photo),
which are both regular fixtures in lists of
the most scenic sights in Britain.
The eastern rim of Swansea Bay is
worth a visit, too. Margam Country
Park (margamcountrypark.co.uk ) has a
grand castle, 18th-century Orangery,
ornamental gardens, deer park and
Go Ape high-wire forest adventure,
all set within 1,000 acres of stunningcountryside.
Swansea is also the starting point of
the Heart of Wales railway line (heart-
of-wales.co.uk), which potters through
our farming heartland before plunging
through mountain tunnels on its
picturesque journey to Shrewsbury.
visitswanseabay.com
Where to go, what to do and how to do it
Swansea48hours
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Opposite page from topMumbles, gateway to the Gower Peninsula
Swansea vs Manchester Utd, Liberty Stadium, SwanseaSwansea indoor market
Walking on Rhossili Down, Gower Peninsula
This page from topBute Park, CardiffWales Millennium Centre, Cardiff
Cardiff Bays busy waterfrontDoctor Who Experience, Cardiff Bay
Okay, you have 48 hours to exploreour capital city. So lets goshopping. Cardiffs one of the best retailcities in the UK, thanks to the mighty
St Davids centre (stdavidscardiff.com ),
part of a 700m transformation of the
city centre. It has more than 160 stores
including John Lewis restaurants and
cafs, all set snugly in the compact heart
of the city. There are also seven historic
shopping arcades (visitcardiff.com) and
Cardiff Market (cardiff-market.co.uk),
a proper old-style glass-roofed jobbie.
There are museums and galleries galorein the city centre. The National Museum
Cardiff (museumwales.ac.uk /en/cardiff)
tells four and a half million years
of Welsh history and also houses
one of the finest art collections in
Europe. Just outside the city is
St Fagans: National History Museum
(museumwales.ac.uk/en/stfagans),
a fantastic open-air museum and
deservedly one of the most popular
visitor attractions in Wales.
The city has more than 2,000 acres ofparkland, making it the greenest capital
city in Europe. Bute Park (cardiff.gov.uk)
is a stunning stretch of greenery that
reaches right down into the heart of the
city, where it bumps into the Animal
Wall of sculptures next to Cardiff Castle
(cardiffcastle.com).
Cardiff bursts with music and drama
too, from venues like St Davids Hall
(stdavidshallcardiff.co.uk), Motorpoint
Arena (livenation.co.uk ) and the WalesMillennium Centre (wmc.org.uk) to
intimate spaces like Chapter Arts Centre
(chapter.org) which also has an
excellent caf and bar and Clwb Ifor
Bach (clwb.net). There are countless
places to relax with good food and drink.
Thanks to the docks of Tiger Bay, this
was Britains first multi-cultural city, which
is reflected in the food: pretty much
all cultures are represented, from Brazil
to Bengal, along with the best locally-
sourced Welsh produce.
This is a city that parties everyweekend. The clubs of St Mary Street
and Greyfriars Road are the epicentre of
the action, but you dont have to look
far to find an authentic Welsh pub selling
Brains beer, like the legendary City Arms
(thecityarms.com), or a laid-back bar
like 10 Feet Tall (10feettallcardiff.com)
which has a great cocktail menu and a DJ
crafting a nice groove.
As youre making a weekend of it,
youll have time for a little exploration.
Cardiff Bay (visitcardiffbay.info) offersstriking architecture to explore both
old and new as well as plenty of
places to eat and drink, plus attractions
like the science museum Techniquest
(techniquest.org), Dr Who Experience
(doctorwhoexperience.com) and the
superb Cardiff International White Water
(ciww.com).
visitcardiff.com
Cities & towns48 Hours
Cardiff
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visitwales.com26
2Abergavenny, MonmouthshireThis is a proper market town three a
week, no less and a fabulous place to poke
around home-grown shops and galleries. Its the
gastronomic capital of Wales, too, with Britainsbest food and drink festival held every September.
You can burn off the calories by walking one
of the seven hills that enfold the town.
visitwyevalley.com, abergavennyfoodfestival.com
Where to stay:The Angel Hotel is the kind ofcoaching inn that every town wishes it had, and
its sister restaurant, The Walnut Tree, is the most
celebrated in Wales with two adjoining self-catering
cottages. angelabergavenny.com,
thewalnuttreeinn.com
3Llandrindod Wells, PowysThe Victorians flocked to Llandod for its
healing spring waters, and its mid-point location
still makes it a popular conference town. This means
its got plenty of things to amuse all year round
(including a weekly market) but it really shines
during the annual Victorian Festival in August.
midwalesmywales.com
Where to stay:The Metropole is the biggest ofdozens of options in a town geared up for visitors.
metropole.co.uk
Market leadersAway from the big cities and coastal resorts, rural Wales has plenty
of fabulous market towns. Like this magnificent seven, for instance
2 4
3 5
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4Machynlleth, PowysTheres a lovely vibe to Mach, a
handsome market town the street market
is every Wednesday where local farmers
rub shoulders with off-beat hippie influences.Theres a very good modern art gallery,
MOMA, and the nearby Centre for Alternative
Technology is a gem. midwalesmyway.com,
momawales.org.uk, cat.org.uk
Where to stay:The Wynnstay Hotel hasa lovely heart-of-the-community feel, and
fabulous Ynyshir Hall is a short drive away.
wynnstay-hotel.com, ynyshirhall.co.uk
5Llanrwst, ConwyIn 1947 Llanrwst declared itself an
independent state and applied (only half-jokingly) for a seat at the United Nations.
Its still a wonderfully free-spirited market
town, at the heart of the Conwy Valley,
perfectly positioned for Snowdonias coast
and mountains. visitsnowdonia.infoWhere to stay:Plas Maenan, the mansionon a rock is a lovely country house with
brilliant views of the valley below.
plas-maenan-hotel.co.uk
6Cowbridge,Vale of Glamorgan
The Cardiff posh commute from here, the
Vale of Glamorgans most glamorous address.
Even for all the boutiques, galleries and cafs,Cowbridge remains the heart of the Vales
farming community, so it still has lots of
good honest muck on its wellies. Best of
both worlds, really. visitthevale.comWhere to stay:The Bear coaching inn cantrace its origins back to the 12th century, and
is still doing a roaring trade. bearhotel.com
7Ruthin, DenbighshireIt bills itself as the most charming small
town in Wales, and were not arguing. Theres
an excellent craft centre, and even the oldgaol, which closed in 1976, now offers a warm
welcome to its fascinating museum. All in all,
the perfect base for exploring the Clwydian
hills. northeastwales.co.ukWhere to stay:Manorhaus is a boutiquerestaurant-with-rooms that doubles as an
art gallery, while the towns castle is now
a sumptuous spa hotel. manorhaus.com,
ruthincastle.co.uk
1Llandeilo, CarmarthenshireThe cool capital of Carmarthenshire, as the London press call it, sits prettily on
a hill overlooking one of the loveliest valleys in Wales. There are plenty of boutiquesand cafs to graze, and its a short walk through a wooded nature reserve to Dinefwr
Castle, an ancient royal capital. There are also excellent music, jazz and literary festivals.
discovercarmarthenshire.com
Where to stay:The Cawdor is the beating heart of the towns social scene, while Fronlasis the chicest of B&Bs. thecawdor.com, fronlas.com
6
7
Cities & townsMarket leaders
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Events DiaryFrom beer festivals to major sporting events, cultural celebrations to feastsof food, theres plenty to keep you occupied in Wales this year. As you can
plainly see, were not shy of hosting a party.
2014 is the centenary celebration of the birth of Dylan Thomas, the highly
influential literary figure of the late 20th century. The Senior Open golf
championship is hosted in Wales for the first time at Royal Porthcawl Golf
Club, following in the groundbreaking footsteps of The 2010 Ryder Cup.
Along with literary festivals, numerous music celebrations and, of course,
bog-snorkelling championships, why not plan your visit to Wales in
conjunction with one of these world-renowned events?
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29visitwales.com
11th January
Saturnalia Beer Festival & Chariot
Race, Llanwrtyd Wells
Saturnalia was the major midwinter
Roman festival. In this version,
participants are encouraged to wear
Roman dress, eat Roman food, quaff fine
ales and party with friends. You can even
compete in the World Mountain BikeChariot Racing Championship.
green-events.co.uk
February
Classic FM Live in Wales
Cardiff
Held at the Wales Millennium Centre,
Classic FM Live combines the very best
international performers with the very
best talents in Wales, making classical
music accessible to a wide audience.
classicfm.com
1st February
Wales v Italy, Cardiff
The Millennium Stadium hosts the first
rugby union international of the Six
Nations Championship. As defending
champions, Wales take on Italy.
millenniumstadium.com
4th 14th February
Quiltfest, Llangollen
Anything and everything to do with
quilt making: exhibitions, competition,
demonstrations and workshops.
quiltfest.org.uk
6th 11th February
Abertawe Festival for YoungMusicians, Swansea
An annual musical event featuring
competitive piano, strings, woodwind
and ensemble sections.
afymswansea.co.uk
1st March
St Davids Day Parade
To celebrate our patron saints day,
parades and events take place all over
Wales. In bigger towns and cities look
out for food festivals, concerts and
street parties.
stdavidsday.org
1st 9th MarchCrickhowell Walking Festival
Crickhowell
Guided walks of various grades, all led by
local experienced guides plus a range of
supporting events.
crickhowellfestival.com
2nd March
The Island Race, Anglesey
The Anglesey Half Marathon takes
runners across the world famous Menai
Bridge and follows the coast road to
Beaumaris Castle and back.
theislandrace.com
15th MarchWales v Scotland, Cardiff
The final day of the Six Nations rugby
union championship, and the most
eagerly awaited fixture of the year at
the Millennium Stadium.
millenniumstadium.com
Events Diary2014
Opposite page clockwise from top lefThe Porthcawl Elvis Festiva
Llangollen International EisteddfodWales v Italy rugby international, Cardiff
St Davids Hall, CardifRoyal Welsh Show, Builth Wells
British Speedway Grand Prix, CardiffHay Festival, Hay-on-Wye
This page from leftMenai Bridge, Isle of Anglesey
Musician, Cardiff CastleSt Davids Day Parade
Starts on 21st March
Wales One World Film Festival
Cardiff & Aberystwyth
One World explores the edges of
contemporary global cinema and gives
audiences the chance to celebrate world
cinema in all its richness and diversity.
wowfilmfestival.com
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30
Dylan Thomas
This year Wales celebrates the centenary
of the birth of Dylan Thomas, born on
27th October 1914 at 5 Cwmdonkin
Drive, in the Uplands area of Swansea.
He grew up in the city, but paid regular
summer visits to his aunts farm in
Carmarthenshire, whose rural setting
inspired much of his work.
Thomas left school at 16 to become
a reporter for the local newspaper,and became a regular at local pubs
and coffee shops, where he mixed
with a group of writers, musicians
and artists that became known as
The Kardomah Gang.
In 1936 he met a dancer called Caitlin
Macnamara in a London pub, and
drunkenly proposed to her on the spot.
They married in 1937, and a year later
the couple moved to Laugharne, where
they raised three children. He died on
9th November 1953 in New York, after
a prolonged drinking session. His bodywas returned to Wales where he was
buried in the churchyard in Laugharne.
Thomas is remembered as one of the
most innovative poets of the English
language. In addition to poetry, he wrote
short stories and scripts for film and radio
notably the classic play for voices,
Under Milk Wood.
April September
The Dylan Weekends
Three weekends to celebrate Dylan
Thomass life and work, themed to
echo Dylans favourite art forms:
just the kind of events Dylan himself
would have enjoyed:
11th 13th April
Poetry and Biography
curated by Patti Smith and
Simon Armitage
19th 21st September
Comedy and Radio
curated by Robin Ince and
Simon Maconie
26th 28th September
Music and Film
curated by Richard James andEuros Child
thelaugharneweekend.com
dylanthomas100.org
AboveRHS Flower Show, Cardiff
Wonderwool Wales, Builth Wells
11th 13th April
RHS Flower Show, Cardiff
Held in Bute Park against the backdrop
of Cardiff Castle, the show provides an
inspirational display of vibrant gardening,
floral delights and expert advice.
rhs.org.uk
26th 27th AprilWonderwool Wales, Builth Wells
A fun and fibre-packed weekend that
includes displays, workshops and
demonstrations.
wonderwoolwales.co.uk
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Events Diary2014
2nd 4th May
Machynlleth Comedy Festival
Machynlleth
An annual live comedy festival brings top
comics to this lovely Mid Wales town.
machcomedyfest.co.uk
2nd 5th May
Bro Tregaron Walking WeekendTregaron Walking Club invites walkers
of all ages and abilities to join them on
guided walks in the unspoilt and stunning
Cambrian Mountains.
walktregaron.co.uk
3rd 5th May
Llandudno Victorian Extravaganza
Llandudno
This seaside resort returns to its Victorian
roots in an event packed full of steam
engines, Victorian musical organs,
vintage cars, costumes, curiosities and
side shows.
victorian-extravaganza.com
16th 18th May
Prestatyn & Clwydian Range Walking
Festival, Prestatyn
Three days of walking and fun at this 9th
annual festival offering 25 themed walks
ranging from easy to energetic.
prestatynwalkingfestival.co.uk
17th 18th May
Welsh Three Peaks Challenge
Snowdonia and the Brecon Beacons
A unique opportunity to climb three of
the most iconic mountains in Wales
Pen y Fan, Cadair Idris and Snowdon.
snowdon500.co.uk
17th 18th MaySnowdonia Slateman Triathlon
Llanberis
A triathlon to remember! Held over two
days, the two race options are the Full
Slateman (1000m/51km/11km) or the
Slateman Sprint (400m/20km/6km).
snowdoniaslateman.com
22nd 29th May
Beaumaris Arts Festival, Anglesey
This seaside town is the perfect
setting for a week-long arts festival.
Events include classical music and jazz
performances, talks, theatrical events,
poetry reading and art exhibitions.
beaumarisfestival.com
22nd May 1st June
Hay Festival, Hay-on-Wye
Former US President Bill Clinton called
Hay the Woodstock of the mind,
which just about sums up this incredible
gathering of the worlds greatest writers
and thinkers. There are 900+ events
over the ten days, featuring poets and
scientists, lyricists and comedians,novelists and environmentalists,
politicians and philosophers, actors and
astronauts, historians and economists
all coming together to kick around big
ideas that will transform your way of
thinking. Unmissable.
hayfestival.com
23rd 25th May
Aberystwyth Cycle Festival
With some of Britains top cyclists
making a rare appearance in Mid Wales,
festival visitors can watch all the action
and experience the beautiful and
undiscovered lanes of Ceredigion on
their own bikes.
abercyclefest.com
From leftBeaumaris, Isle of Anglesey
Welsh Three Peaks ChallengeBrecon Beacons
Hay Festival, Hay-on-Wye
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32
24th May
Heineken Cup Final,
Millennium Stadium, Cardiff
Four Heineken Cup finals have been
played to date at this world-class
stadium. The 2014 finals will see the
creation of a European Champions
Village, providing a focal point for fans
to savour the unique atmosphere ofthis major European rugby tournament.
You can make a proper weekend of it by
showing up for the Amlin Challenge Cup
Final, held the day before at the historic
Cardiff Arms Park.
ercrugby.com
25th 26th May
Abergavenny Steam & Vintage Rally
Bailey Park, Abergavenny
A marvellous day out for the whole
family with steam and vintage vehicles,
a childrens playground, a food village,
rural crafts and handicrafts.
abergavennysteamrally.co.uk
26th 31st May
Urdd Eisteddfod, Bala
One of the largest cultural youth festivals
in Europe, celebrating the best talent in
song, dance, drama and design.
urdd.org/eisteddfod
4th 7th June
Three Castles Welsh Classic Trial
Llandudno
Attracting more than 300 classic
cars from the early 1900s through
to todays supercars. Stalls, childrens
entertainments, refreshments and
live jazz.
three-castles.co.uk
7th June
Big Welsh Trail, Coed Llandegla
A half marathon and 6.3 mile (10 km)
route will take in awe inspiring trails
through the 650 hectares of this
beautiful forest.
bigwelshtrail.com
24th 25th May
Really Wild Food & Countryside
Festival, St David's
A fabulous showcase of locally grown
and produced food, with wild ingredients
foraged from the hedgerows, coast,
beach and river. Loads to see and do,
AND to eat of course!
reallywildfestival.co.uk
25th May
Welsh Open Stoneskimming
Championships, Llanwrtyd Wells
Stoneskimming is the ancient skill of
bouncing stones as far as possible
across water. You can enter the fray or
just enjoy other amusing stone-themed
events.
green-events.co.uk
30th May 1st June
Woodfest, Wales, Kinmel Estate
near St Asaph
This interactive celebration of wood-
related skills and crafts is packed with
exhilarating displays including more than
150 outside stands of demonstrations
and trade, and six marquees full of
unique goods produced in Wales.
woodfestwales.co.uk
June
Ruthin Festival, Ruthin
An outstanding variety of non-stop
music, from traditional folk to classical,
as well as the best from the world of
jazz and popular music.
ruthinfestival.co.uk
13th 29th June
Gregynog Festival, Gregynog
Known as the oldest festival in Wales the
Gregynog festival is one of the UKs top
rated classical musical events. Held in
the beautiful surroundings of the Welsh
borders, this festival has a different
theme every year spanning a range
of music from medieval to chamber,
performed by fantastic artists, onauthentic instruments.
gregynogfestival.org
visitwales.com
From leftHeineken Cup, Millennium Stadium
Foraging in WalesWoodfest, Kinmel Estate, near St Asaph
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Events Diary2014
14th June
Man v Horse Marathon
Llanwrtyd Wells
A unique marathon of 22 miles (35 km)
through spectacular countryside where
runners and horses compete against
each other. A runner has won just twice
in the events 33-year history.
green-events.co.uk
14th 15th June
Snowdonia Arts Festival
Betws-y-Coed
A celebration of the areas artistic
heritage through worksh