Towards a local action plan for Venice Veneto Region/CORILA and ARPAV
Venice the Veneto - Lonely...
30
“ All you’ve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over. So go! ” TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER – LONELY PLANET THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY Alison Bing, Paula Hardy Venice & the Veneto ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Transcript of Venice the Veneto - Lonely...
“All you’ve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over.
So go!”
TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER – LONELY PLANET
THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY
Alison Bing, Paula Hardy
Venice & the Veneto
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Contents
Welcome to Venice.......... 4
Venice’s Top 10 ................ 6
What’s New .................... 13
Need to Know ................ 14
First Time Venice .......... 16
Top Itineraries ............... 18
If You Like... ....................20
Month by Month ............22
With Kids ........................25
For Free .......................... 27
Like a Local ....................29
Tours ...............................30
Eating ............................32Drinking & Nightlife... 38Entertainment ............ 43Shopping ...................... 48
Plan Your Trip page 1
Understand Venice & the Veneto 225
Survival Guide 277
Venice Maps 306
Plan Your Trip 4
Explore Venice & the Veneto 52
Transport .....................278
Directory A–Z ............. 284
Language .................... 290
Behind the Scenes ..... 296
Index ............................ 298
Venice Today ...............226
History ..........................228
Architecture .................243
The Arts....................... 254
Life as a Venetian ....... 269
The Fragile Lagoon .....273
Sestiere di San Marco ...56
Sestiere di Dorsoduro ..82
Sestiere di San Polo & Santa Croce ...................99
Sestiere di Cannaregio .................. 122
Sestiere di Castello ..... 137
Guidecca, Lido & the Southern Islands ......... 158
Murano, Burano & the Northern Islands ......... 169
Day Trips from Venice .............................182
Sleeping ..................... 211
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Giudecca, Lido &the Southern
Islands
Sestieredi Dorsoduro
Sestieredi San Marco
Sestieri diSan Polo &Santa Croce
Sestiere diCannaregio
Sestiere diCastello
Murano, Burano &the Northern Islands
p158
p56p137
p82
p99
p122
p169
(left) Restaurants in a Venetian calle (lane)
(above) Basilica di San Marco (p58)
(right) Glass in a window display, Murano (p180)
Neighbourhoods at a Glance . . . . . . . . . .54
Sestiere di San Marco . . . . . . . . . . .56Top Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75Drinking & Nightlife . . . . . . . . 76Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . . . 78Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 78
Sestiere di Dorsoduro . . . . . . . . . . .82Top Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .88Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .90Drinking & Nightlife . . . . . . . .95Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . . .96Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .96
Sestieri di San Polo & Santa Croce . . . . . . . . . .99Top Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .101Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .106Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 113Drinking & Nightlife . . . . . . . 115Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . . 117Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 117
Sestiere di Cannaregio . . . . . . . . . 122Top Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 124Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 127Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 131Drinking & Nightlife . . . . . . . 133Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . . 134Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 135
Sestiere di Castello . . . . . . . . . . . . 137Top Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 139Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 143Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 151Drinking & Nightlife . . . . . . . 154Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . . 155Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 155
Giudecca, Lido & the Southern Islands . . . . 158Top Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 160Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 161Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 165Drinking & Nightlife . . . . . . . 167Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . . 167Sports & Activities . . . . . . . . 168
Murano, Burano & the Northern Islands . . . . 169Top Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .171Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 172Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 178Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 179
Day Trips from Venice . . . . . . . . . 182Riviera Brenta . . . . . . . . . . . . 183padua (padova) . . . . . . . . . . 185Vicenza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 192prosecco Road Trip . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 198Verona . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .201Verona’s Wine Country . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 208
Sleeping . . . . . . . . . . . . 211
JEA
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©Explore Venice & the Veneto
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Basilica di San Marco .......58
Palazzo Ducale .................. 61
Teatro La Fenice ............... 66
Gallerie dell’Accademia ... 84
Peggy Guggenheim Collection ...........................87
Scuola Grande di San Rocco ........................ 101
I Frari (Chiesa di Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari) ..104
The Ghetto .......................124
Arsenale ...........................139
Zanipolo ............................141
Giardini Pubblici .............. 142
Chiesa di San Giorgio Maggiore ..........................160
Basilica di Santa Maria Assunta ..................171
TOP SIGHTSVENICE’S
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Although the authors and Lonely planet have taken all reason-able care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxi-mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.
Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty LtdABN 36 005 607 9838th edition – Nov 2013ISBN 978 1 74220 872 5© Lonely planet 2013 photographs © as indicated 201310 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1printed in ChinaAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely planet and the Lonely planet logo are trademarks of Lonely planet and are registered in the US patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.
Alison BingCoordinating Author; Plan Your Trip; Sestiere di San Marco; Sestiere di Dorsoduro; Sestieri di San Polo & Santa Croce; Sestiere di Cannaregio; Understand Venice & the Veneto When she’s not scribbling notes in church pews or methodically eating her way across Venice’s sestieri (neighbourhoods), Alison contributes to Lonely Planet’s USA, Morocco, San Francisco, Marrakesh, California and Discover Italy guides, as well as food, art and architecture maga-
zines. Alison holds a bachelor’s degree in art history and a master’s degree from the Fletcher School of Law and Diplomacy, a joint program of Tufts and Harvard Universities – perfectly re-spectable diplomatic credentials she regularly undermines with opinionated culture commentary for newspapers, magazines, TV and radio. Currently she divides her time between San Francisco and an Etruscan hilltop town in central Italy with partner Marco Flavio Marinucci, and tweets her finds at @AlisonBing. Alison also contributed to the Sleeping chapter of this guide.
Paula HardySestiere di Castello; Giudecca, Lido & the Southern Islands; Murano, Burano & the Northern Islands; Day Trips from Venice; Survival Guide From the slopes of Valpolicella to the curing houses of Valdobbiadene and the spritz-fuelled bars and bacari of Padua and Castello, Paula has been contribut-ing to Lonely Planet’s Italian guides for over 10 years, including guides to Milan, the Italian Lakes, Puglia, Sicily and Sardinia. When she’s not scooting around the
bel paese, she writes for a variety of travel publications and websites. You can find her tweeting from the lakes and mountains at @paula6hardy. Paula also contributed to the Sleeping chapter of this guide.
Our Writers
Our StoryA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.
Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Melbourne, London, Oakland and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.
Day TwoDorsoduro (p82)
M Discover the modern art that caused uproars and defined the 20th century
at the Peggy Guggenheim Collection, then confront contemporary art pushing 21st-century buttons inside Punta della Dogana. Duck into Baldassare Longhena’s domed Chiesa di Santa Maria della Sa-lute to witness its legendary curative pow-ers and blushing Titians. Outside, catch the vaporetto up the Grand Canal.
San Polo & Santa Croce
R Experience climate change through masterpieces flanking Campo San
Rocco: I Frari, featuring Titian’s sunny altarpiece, and Scuola Grande di San Rocco, lined with stormy Tintorettos. An-tique shops and artisan studios line your route to Campo San Polo and Campo San Giacomo dell’Orio, where the medieval church offers meditative calm – as does the namesake beverage at Al Prosecco. Test your orienteering skills on the winding back lanes of the former red-light district, head-ing across Ponte delle Tette (Tits Bridge) towards dinner.
San Marco
N Cross Ponte di Rialto to join over-flow crowds grooving to DJ sets at
Osteria All’Alba, or discover your new favourite Veneto vintage at I Rusteghi.
Lunch Enjoy market-fresh feasts in miniature at All’Arco (p113).
Dinner Fresh seafood and gnocchi at hidden Antiche Carampane (p114).
Day OneSan Marco (p56)
M Begin your day in prison on the Secret Passages tour of the Palazzo
Ducale, then break for espresso at Caffè Lavena’s counter before the Byzantine blitz of golden mosaics inside Basilica di San Marco. Browse boutique-lined backstreets to Museo Fortuny, the palace fashion house whose goddess gowns freed women from corsets.
Dorsoduro
R Pause atop wooden Ponte dell’Accademia for Grand Canal
photo ops, then discover colourful, timeless drama no camera can convey inside Gal-lerie dell’Accademia. Wander past Squero di San Trovaso to glimpse gondolas being built, then bask in the reflected glory of Pal-ladio’s Il Redentore along waterfront Zat-tere. Stop at tiny Chiesa di San Sebastian, packed with Veroneses, then troll artisan boutiques along Calle Lunga San Barnaba until it’s ‘spritz o’clock’ (cocktail hour) in Campo Santa Margherita.
San Marco
N The hottest ticket in town during opera season is at La Fenice, but
classical-music fans shouldn’t miss Vivaldi played with contemporary verve by Inter-preti Veneziani.
Lunch Imaginative, bi-coastal Italian seafood at A Beccafico (p76).
Dinner Enoteca Ai Artisti (p95) Hand-made pasta with perfect pairings.
Top Itineraries
18
Day FourMurano, Burano & the Northern Islands (p169)
M Make your lagoon getaway on a va-poretto bound for rainbow-coloured
Burano and green-and-gold Torcello. Fol-low the sheep trail to Torcello’s Byzantine Cattedrale di Santa Maria Assunta, where the apse’s golden Madonna calmly stares down the blue devils opposite. Catch the boat back to Burano, to admire extreme home-design colour schemes and handmade lace at Museo del Merletto.
Murano, Burano & the Northern Islands
R Witness the fiery passions of glass artisans at Murano’s legendary
fornace (furnaces), and see their finest mo-ments showcased at the Museo del Vetro (Glass Museum). After Murano showrooms close, hop on the vaporetto all the way to Giudecca for one last, long view of San Marco glittering across glassy waters.
San Marco
N Celebrate your triumphant tour of the lagoon with a prosecco toast
and tango across Piazza San Marco at Caffè Florian; repeat as necessary.
Lunch Venissa (p179): Sunny Mazzorbo vineyards, inspired lagoon cuisine.
Dinner I Figli delle Stelle (p165): hearty dishes and romantic canalside tables.
Day ThreeCastello (p137)
M Stroll Riva degli Schiavoni for views across the sparkling lagoon
to Palladio’s San Giorgio Maggiore. See how Carpaccio’s sprightly saints light up a room at Scuola di San Giorgio degli Schiavoni, then seek out Castello’s hidden wonder: Chiesa di San Francesco della Vigna. Get stared down by statues atop Ospedaletto on your way to brick Gothic Zanipolo, where you’ll mingle with 25 marble dogi. The Renaissance awaits two bridges away at Chiesa di Santa Maria dei Miracoli, a polychrome marble mira-cle made from Basilica di San Marco’s leftovers.
Cannaregio
R Wander serene fondamente past statue sentries ringing Campo dei
Mori to reach Chiesa della Madonna dell’Orto, the neighbourhood Gothic church Tintoretto lavished with master-pieces. Tour the Ghetto’s rooftop syna-gogues and enjoy quiet reflection in Ikona Gallery, until Venice’s happiest hours beckon across the bridge at Al Timon.
Cannaregio
N Take a romantic gondola ride through Cannaregio’s long canals,
which seem purpose-built to maximise moonlight.
Lunch Osteria Boccadoro (p133): crudi and pasta with fine-dining finesse.
Dinner Hearty meals to satisfy sailors await at Dalla Marisa (p132).
19PLAN
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309
SEST
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SESTIERE DI SAN MARCO Map on p308
æ Top Sights (p58) 24 Tesoro.......................................................... H51 Basilica di San Marco ................................ H4 25 Torre dell'Orologio .....................................G42 Museo Correr .............................................. F53 Palazzo Ducale............................................H5 ú Eating (p74)4 Teatro La Fenice .........................................D5 26 A Beccafico ................................................. B6
27 Anonimo Veneziano ................................... E5æ Sights (p67) 28 Bacaro Da Fiore .......................................... B5
5 Campanile....................................................G5 29 Caffè Mandola............................................. D46 Caterina Tognon Arte Contemporanea ...C6 30 Cavatappi .................................................... G37 Chiesa di San Moisè ................................... F6 31 Da Mario ...................................................... C68 Chiesa di San Vidal .....................................B6 32 Enoteca al Volto.......................................... D39 Chiesa di San Zulian ...................................G3 33 Gelateria Suso .............................................F210 Chiesa di Santa Maria del Giglio ...............D6 34 I Rusteghi...................................................... F111 Chiesa di Santo Stefano ............................C5 35 Osteria da Carla...........................................F512 Galleria Traghetto.......................................D6 36 Rosa Salva....................................................F213 Galleria van der Koelen ..............................D5 37 Sangal .......................................................... F414 Jarach Gallery ............................................. E515 Museo.......................................................... H4 ûDrinking & Nightlife (p76)16 Museo della Musica ....................................C6 38 B-Bar ............................................................ F617 Museo Fortuny ............................................C4 39 Caffè Centrale............................................. E518 Negozio Olivetti ........................................... F5 40 Caffè Florian................................................ G519 Pala d'Oro ................................................... H4 41 Caffè Lavena ...............................................G420 Palazzo Contarini del Bovolo ....................E4 42 Caffè Quadri ................................................G421 Palazzo Franchetti ......................................B6 43 Harry's Bar .................................................. F622 Palazzo Grassi.............................................A5 I Rusteghi........................................... (see 34)23 Ponte dell'Accademia ................................ A7 44 Osteria All'Alba ............................................ F1
310
SESTIERE DI SAN M
ARCO45 Osteria San Marco ...................................... F5 66 Libreria Studium.........................................H446 Teamo ..........................................................C4 67 Malefatte ..................................................... B547 Torino@Notte.............................................. E3 68 Materialmente .............................................F3
69 Ottica Carraro ............................................. D4ý Entertainment (p78) 70 Pagine e Cuoio ............................................ E5
Interpreti Veneziani ............................ (see 8) 71 Venetia Studium.........................................D648 Multisala Rossini .........................................D4 72 Venetian Dreams........................................D449 Musica a Palazzo ........................................C650 Teatro Goldoni ............................................ E3 ÿ Sleeping (p214)
73 AD Place Venice.......................................... D5þ Shopping (p78) 74 Bloom/7 Cielo............................................. B551 Arcobaleno ..................................................B5 75 Ca' del Nobile .............................................. F452 Arnoldo & Battois .......................................E4 76 Giò & Giò ...................................................... D653 ArtigianCarta di Massimo Doretto ........... F4 77 Gritti Palace................................................. D754 Bevilacqua Fabrics .....................................D6 78 Hotel Ai Do Mori..........................................H455 Caigo da Mar ...............................................B5 79 Hotel Al Codega .......................................... E456 Camuffo .......................................................G3 80 Hotel Flora ................................................... E657 Charta.......................................................... G4 81 Hotel Noemi ................................................ F458 Chiarastella Cattana...................................B4 82 Locanda Art Deco....................................... B559 Daniela Ghezzo ...........................................E4 83 Locanda Casa Petrarca ............................. E460 Epicentro...................................................... E5 84 Locanda Orseolo ........................................ F461 Esperienze ...................................................G3 85 Novecento ................................................... C662 Fiorella Gallery ............................................B6 86 Palazzo Paruta............................................ C463 Gloria Astolfo............................................... F564 Godi Fiorenza ..............................................E465 Le Botteghe della Solidarietà .................... F2
311
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æ Top Sights (p84) 15 Bar alla Toletta............................................ E31 Ca' Rezzonico.............................................. E2 16 Casin dei Nobili ........................................... D22 Gallerie dell'Accademia ............................. E3 17 Do Farai........................................................ D23 Peggy Guggenheim Collection.................. F3 18 Enoteca Ai Artisti ........................................ D34 Punta della Dogana ................................... H3 19 Grom ............................................................ D2
20 Impronta Café..............................................D1æ Sights (p88) 21 Pane Vino e San Daniele............................ D2
5 Basilica di Santa Maria della 22 Pasticceria Tonolo ......................................D1Salute ....................................................... H4 23 Pizza Al Volo................................................ D2
6 Ca' Dario.......................................................G3 24 Ristorante La Bitta ..................................... D27 Chiesa dei Gesuati ......................................E4 25 Ristorante San Trovaso............................. E48 Chiesa di San Nicolò dei Mendicoli...........A29 Chiesa di San Sebastian ............................B3 ûDrinking & Nightlife (p95)10 Magazzini del Sale ..................................... G4 26 Ai Do Draghi .................................................D111 Palazzo Zenobio..........................................C2 27 Café Noir.......................................................D112 Scuola Grande dei Carmini........................C2 28 Caffè Bar Ai Artisti...................................... D213 Squero di San Trovaso............................... E4 Cantina di Millevini ........................... (see 32)
29 Cantinone Già Schiavi................................ E4ú Eating (p90) 30 Il Caffè Rosso ...............................................D114 Antica Trattoria La Furatola ......................D2 31 Imagina Café ............................................... D2
312
SESTIERE DI DORSO
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32 Osteria alla Bifora .......................................D2 Ø Sports & Activities (p98)33 Tea Room Beatrice .....................................D3 Ca' Macana........................................ (see 38)
ý Entertainment (p96) ÿ Sleeping (p216)34 Venice Jazz Club .........................................D2 47 B&B Dorsoduro 461 ...................................G4
48 B&B Leonardo ............................................ D2þ Shopping (p96) 49 Ca' Pisani ..................................................... E435 Antiquariato Claudia Canestrelli .............. G4 50 Hotel Galleria ...............................................F336 Aqua Altra ....................................................C2 51 La Calcina .................................................... E437 Arras ............................................................. E2 52 La Chicca ..................................................... F438 Ca' Macana ..................................................D2 53 Locanda Ca' del Brocchi............................ F439 Danghyra......................................................D2 54 Locanda San Barnaba ............................... E240 Gualti ............................................................D2 55 Palazzo Guardi............................................ E341 L'Angolo del Passato ..................................E2 56 Pensione Accademia Villa42 Lauretta Vistosi...........................................D2 Maravege.................................................. E343 Le Forcole di Saverio Pastor .................... G4 57 Silk Road...................................................... C3
Madera ............................................... (see 19)44 Marina e Susanna Sent .............................. F445 Papuni Art ....................................................D246 Signor Bloom...............................................D2
313
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IERI
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SESTIERI DI SAN PO
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SEST
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SESTIERI DI SAN POLO & SANTA CROCE Map on p314
æ Top Sights (p101) 45 Osteria da Filo ............................................. C31 I Frari.............................................................B6 46 Taverna da Baffo ........................................ C52 Rialto Market ...............................................G33 Scuola Grande di San Rocco .....................A6 ý Entertainment (p117)
47 Casa Del Cinema ........................................ D2æ Sights (p106) 48 Opera at Scuola Grande di San
4 Basilica di Santa Maria Gloriosa Giovanni Evangelista............................... B4dei Frari .....................................................B6 49 Palazetto Bru Zane .................................... B4
5 Ca' Pesaro.................................................... E2 50 Summer Arena ........................................... D56 Casa di Goldoni ...........................................C77 Chiesa di San Giacomo dell'Orio ..............C3 þ Shopping (p117)8 Chiesa di San Giovanni 51 Alberto Sarria Masks ................................. D2
Elemosinario............................................ G4 52 Aliani............................................................. G59 Chiesa di San Polo ......................................D6 53 Anatema ...................................................... C610 Chiesa di San Rocco ...................................A6 54 Campiello Ca' Zen ...................................... C511 Chiesa di San Stae......................................E2 55 Cartavenezia ............................................... D312 Fondazione Prada....................................... F2 56 Cárte ............................................................ F413 Il Gobbo ....................................................... H4 Casa del Parmigiano ........................ (see 36)14 Museo di Storia Naturale di 57 Dietro L'Angolo ........................................... C6
Venezia...................................................... C1 58 Drogheria Mascari......................................G415 Palazzo Mocenigo.......................................D2 59 Franco Furlanetto....................................... C716 Ponte delle Tette.........................................E4 60 Gilberto Penzo ............................................ C617 Ponte di Rialto .............................................H5 61 Giuseppe Tinti............................................. E318 Scuola Grande di San Giovanni 62 Gmeiner ........................................................F5
Evangelista ...............................................A4 63 Hibiscus ........................................................F564 I Vetri a Lume di Amadi ............................. C6
ú Eating (p112) 65 Il Baule Blu................................................... B719 Al Nono Risorto ........................................... E3 66 Il Gufo Artigiano..........................................G420 Al Pesador................................................... H4 67 Il Pavone di Paolo Pelosin.......................... E521 Alaska Gelateria ..........................................A2 68 La Margherita.............................................. E322 All'Arco ........................................................ G4 69 La Pedrera ................................................... C423 Antica Birraria della Corte .........................D5 70 Laberintho ................................................... D424 Antiche Carampane ...................................E4 71 Mille e Una Nota.......................................... E625 Antico Panificio ........................................... F5 72 Nerodiseppia............................................... A226 Dai Zemei .....................................................G5 73 Ottica Vascellari ..........................................F527 Osteria La Zucca.........................................C2 74 Pied à Terre Shoes .....................................G428 Osteria Mocenigo........................................D2 75 Rialto Biocenter .......................................... E329 Pasticceria Rizzardini .................................E6 76 Sabbie e Nebbie.......................................... C730 ProntoPesce............................................... G4 77 San Polo Vetro ............................................ C431 Sacro E Profano ..........................................H5 78 Schantalle Vetri d'Arte............................... E332 Snack Bar Ai Nomboli ................................C6 79 Veneziastampa ........................................... E333 Trattoria da Ignazio ....................................C6 80 VizioVirtù ..................................................... B734 Vecio Fritolin................................................ E3
ÿ Sleeping (p217)ûDrinking & Nightlife (p115) 81 Al Gallion...................................................... A235 Ai Postali ......................................................A4 82 Al Ponte Mocenigo ..................................... E236 Al Mercà ...................................................... H4 83 Ca' Angeli..................................................... E637 Al Prosecco..................................................C2 84 Campiello Zen ..............................................B138 Antica Osteria Ruga Rialto ........................G5 85 Domina Home Ca' Zusto ........................... B239 Bagolo ..........................................................C3 86 Hotel al Duca................................................C140 Barcollo ....................................................... G4 87 Hotel Palazzo Barbarigo............................ D741 Caffè dei Frari ..............................................B5 88 Oltre il Giardino........................................... C542 Caffè del Doge .............................................G5 89 Pensione Guerrato .....................................G443 Cantina Do Spade ....................................... F444 Muro Vino e Cucina ................................... H4
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9 Hostel Domus Civica.................................. D3
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æ Sights (p127) 11 Al Cicheto....................... B3 25 Pasticceria Dal Mas ...... B33 Ca' d'Oro .........................F4 12 Anice Stellato .................D1 26 Rizzo ............................... C34 Campo dei Mori............. E2 13 Antica Adelaide ............. F45 Chiesa della Madonna 14 Bentigodi........................ D2 ûDrinking & Nightlife (p133)
dell'Orto........................ E1 15 Billa Supermarket ......... F4 27 Agli Ormesini ................. D26 I Gesuiti .......................... H3 16 Boccadoro ..................... H5 28 Al Parlamento................ B27 Ikona Gallery.................. D2 17 Dalla Marisa ................... A2 29 Al Timon ......................... D2
Museo Ebraico .......(see 2) 18 Gelateria Ca' d'Oro ....... F4 30 Algiubagiò ......................H38 Ponte di Calatrava ........ A5 19 La Cantina...................... E4
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31 Cantina Vecia þ Shopping (p135) 51 Spilli Lab & Shop ........... H5Carbonera................... E3 40 Antichità al Ghetto ........ C2 52 Vladì Shoes .................... E3
32 Il Santo Bevitore............ E3 41 Brands ............................ C333 Osteria Ai Osti ................F4 42 Carta & Design .............. E3 ÿ Sleeping (p219)34 Torrefazione Marchi ..... C3 43 De Rossi ......................... G5 53 Alla Vite Dorata .............G435 Un Mondo Di Vino ......... G5 44 Dolceamaro ................... G5 54 Allo Squero ....................G4
45 Gianni Basso..................H4 55 Ca' Dogaressa ............... B2ý Entertainment (p134) 46 Gibigiana ........................ B3 56 Ca' Pozzo ....................... C336 Casinò Di Venezia ......... D3 47 Giunti Al Punto .............. C3 57 Ca' Zanardi..................... G337 Cinema Giorgione 48 Libreria 58 Domus Orsoni ............... B2
Movie D'essai.............. G4 Internazionale 59 Palazzo Abadessa......... F438 Paradiso Perduto .......... E2 Marco Polo.................. G5 60 Residenza Ca' Riccio ....H539 Teatro Fondamenta 49 Mercantino dei 61 Residenza
Nuove .......................... G2 Miracoli........................ H5 Cannaregio ..................C150 Paolo Olbi ....................... H5
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SEST
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SESTIERE DI CASTELLO Map on p320
æ Top Sights (p139) 38 Trattoria Da Remigio.................................. C31 Arsenale ...................................................... E5 39 Zenzero........................................................ A22 Giardini Pubblici ......................................... G63 Scuola di San Giorgio degli ûDrinking & Nightlife (p154)
Schiavoni...................................................C3 40 Aciugheta Enoteca ..................................... B44 Zanipolo .......................................................B2 41 Al Portego.................................................... A2
42 Bacaro Risorto ............................................ B4æ Sights (p143) 43 Bar Terazza Danieli .................................... B4
5 Biennale Exhibition Spaces ....................... E5 44 El Rèfolo........................................................F56 Cattedrale di San Pietro di 45 Enoteca Mascareta .................................... B2
Castello .................................................... H4 46 La Serra .......................................................G67 Chiesa di San Francesco della 47 Paradiso....................................................... G7
Vigna..........................................................D2 Qcoffee Bar ........................................ (see 17)8 Chiesa di San Giorgio dei Greci.................C39 Chiesa di San Giovanni in Bragora ...........D4 ý Entertainment (p155)10 Chiesa di San Lio.........................................A2 Concerts at La Pietà.......................... (see 15)11 Chiesa di San Martino ................................D4 48 Laboratorio Occupato Morion .................. D212 Chiesa di San Zaccaria...............................C413 Chiesa di Santa Maria Formosa................B3 þ Shopping (p155)14 Garibaldi Monument................................... F5 49 Al Campanil ................................................. B215 La Pietà.........................................................C4 50 Atelier Alessandro Merlin .......................... D416 La Tana......................................................... F4 51 Ballarin......................................................... C217 Museo della Fondazione Querini 52 Banco Lotto 10............................................ D4
Stampalia..................................................B3 53 Barbieri Arabesque .................................... C318 Museo delle Icone .......................................C3 54 Giovanna Zanella ........................................ A219 Museo Diocesano di Venezia ....................B4 55 Kalimala Cuoieria ....................................... A320 Museo Storico Navale ................................ E5 56 Paolo Brandolisio ....................................... A321 Ospedaletto .................................................C2 QShop ................................................. (see 17)22 Padiglione delle Navi ..................................E4 57 Sigfrido Cipolato......................................... A323 Palazzo Grimani ..........................................B3
Palazzo Querini Stampalia ...............(see 17) ÿ Sleeping (p220)24 Riva degli Schiavoni....................................D4 58 Alloggi Barbaria .......................................... C225 Scuola Grande di San Marco..................... B1 59 Aqua Palace ................................................ A326 Statue of Bartolomeo Colleoni..................B2 60 B&B San Marco .......................................... C3
61 Ca' Dei Dogi ................................................. B4ú Eating (p151) 62 Casa Verardo .............................................. B327 al Covo..........................................................D4 63 Foresteria Valdese ..................................... B228 Alla Rivetta...................................................B4 64 Hotel al Piave .............................................. B329 Cip Ciap........................................................B3 65 Hotel Danieli ................................................ B430 Le Spighe ..................................................... F5 66 Hotel Le Isole .............................................. B431 Ostaria da Simson ......................................B2 67 iQS ................................................................ B332 Osteria alla Staffa .......................................B2 68 Locanda Sant'Anna.................................... G533 Osteria di Santa Marina .............................A2 69 Palazzo Schiavoni ...................................... D334 Pasticceria Da Bonifacio............................B4 70 Palazzo Soderini .........................................D435 Taverna San Lio ..........................................A236 Trattoria alla Rampa...................................G537 Trattoria Corte Sconta...............................D4
322
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