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media.lonelyplanet.com€¦ · Contents Welcome to Venice & the Veneto 4 Venice’s Top 10 6
29
“ All you’ve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over. So go! ” TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER – LONELY PLANET Venice & the Veneto THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY Cristian Bonetto, Paula Hardy ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Transcript of media.lonelyplanet.com€¦ · Contents Welcome to Venice & the Veneto 4 Venice’s Top 10 6
“All you’ve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over.
So go!” TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER – LONELY PLANET
Venice & the Veneto
THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY
Cristian Bonetto, Paula Hardy
Plan Your Trip 1
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
ContentsContents
Welcome to Venice & the Veneto ������������������������������ 4
Venice’s Top 10 ���������������� 6
What’s New �������������������� 13
Need to Know �����������������14
Top Itineraries ����������������16
If You Like��� ������������������� 18
Month by Month ������������20
For Free ��������������������������22
With Kids ������������������������23
Tours ������������������������������� 25
Eating ���������������������������27Drinking & Nightlife ���33Entertainment �������������37Shopping ����������������������41
Plan Your Trip page 1
Understand Venice & the Veneto 199
Survival Guide 239
Venice & the Veneto Maps 266
Plan Your Trip 4
Explore Venice & the Veneto 44
Transport �������������������� 240
Directory A–Z ��������������246
Language ���������������������252
Index ���������������������������� 260
Venice Today �������������� 200
History ��������������������������202
Architecture ����������������� 215
The Arts������������������������225
The Fragile Lagoon �����237
Neighbourhoods at a Glance ����������������������������46
San Marco ����������������������48
Dorsoduro �����������������������71
San Polo & Santa Croce �������������������84
Cannaregio ������������������ 105
Castello ������������������������� 117
Giudecca, Lido & the Southern Islands ��������� 136
Murano, Burano & the Northern Islands ����������147
Day Trips from Venice �������������������������160
Sleeping ���������������������186
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Giudecca, Lido &the Southern
Islands
DorsoduroSan Marco
San Polo &Santa Croce
Cannaregio
Castello
Murano, Burano & the Northern Islands
p136
p48 p117p71
p84
p105
p147
(left) Ca’ Rezzonico p76 A mansion full of masterpieces�
(above) Vogalonga p154 Take part in this festive rowing race�
(right) Torre Dell’Orologio p57 A 15th-century timepiece�
Top ItinerariesDay OneSan Marco (p48)
M Begin your day in prison on the Secret Passages tour of the Palazzo
Ducale, then break for espresso at the coun-ter of Caffè Lavena before the Byzantine blitz of golden mosaics inside Basilica di San Marco. Browse boutique-lined back-streets to Museo Fortuny, the palace fash-ion house whose goddess-style gowns freed women from corsets.
Dorsoduro (p71)
R Pause atop wooden Ponte dell’Accademia for Grand Canal
photo ops, then surrender to timeless drama that no camera can convey inside Gallerie dell’Accademia. Wander past Squero di San Trovaso to glimpse gondolas under construction, then bask in the reflected glory of Palladio’s Il Redentore along waterfront Zattere. Stop at tiny Chiesa di San Sebastian, packed with Veroneses, then hop between artisan boutiques along Calle Lunga San Barnaba before ‘spritz o’clock’ (cocktail hour) in Campo Santa Margherita.
Dorsoduro (p71)
N Leap back into the 1700s at nearby Scuola Grande dei Carmini, the evoc-
ative setting for costumed classical concerts by Musica in Maschera. Alternatively, end the night on a saxy note at modern veteran Venice Jazz Club.
Day TwoSan Polo & Santa Croce (p84)
M Kick off day two with a crash course in local surf and turf at produce-
packed Rialto market, side-stepping it to Drogheria Mascari for gourmet pantry fillers and regional wines, and to All’Arco for a cheeky morning prosecco. Boutiques and artisan studios punctuate your way to Campo San Rocco, home to Gothic showoff I Frari and its sunny Titian altarpiece. Once admired, slip into Scuola Grande di San Rocco for prime-time-drama Tintorettos.
Dorsoduro (p71)
R Explore the modern art that caused uproars and defined the 20th century
at the Peggy Guggenheim Collection, and contrast it with works that push contempo-rary buttons at Punta della Dogana. Duck into Baldassare Longhena’s domed Chiesa di Santa Maria della Salute for blushing Titians and legendary curative powers, then cross the Grand Canal on Venice’s only wooden bridge, Ponte dell’Accademia.
San Marco (p48)
N The hottest ticket in town during opera season is at La Fenice, but
classical-music fans shouldn’t miss Vivaldi played with contemporary verve by Inter-preti Veneziani.
Dinner Swoon over seasonal, succulent flavours at Ristorante La Bitta (p79).
Lunch Perfect prosciutto above a cinema at DOK Dall’Ava LP26 (p64).
Dinner Superlative Venetian cuisine at Trattoria e Bacaro da Fiore (p65).
Lunch Market-fresh bites and impec-cable wines at vibrant Estro (p81).
16 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Day ThreeCastello (p117)
M Stroll Riva degli Schiavoni for views across the lagoon to Pallad-
io’s San Giorgio Maggiore. See how Car-paccio’s sprightly saints light up a room at Scuola di San Giorgio degli Schiavoni, then seek out Castello’s hidden wonder: Chiesa di San Francesco della Vigna. Get stared down by statues atop Ospedal-etto on your way to Gothic Zanipolo, home to 25 marble doges. The Renaissance awaits two bridges away at Chiesa di Santa Maria dei Miracoli, a polychrome marble miracle made from Basilica di San Marco’s leftovers.
Cannaregio (p105)
R Wander serene fondamente (canal banks) past statue sentries ringing
Campo dei Mori to reach Chiesa della Madonna dell’Orto, the neighbourhood Gothic church Tintoretto pimped with masterpieces. Tour the Ghetto’s newly renovated synagogues and the restored historic pawnshop, Banco Rosso, until
Venice’s happiest hours beckon across the bridge at Al Timon.
Day FourMurano, Burano & the Northern Islands (p147)
M Make your lagoon getaway on a vaporetto bound for Technicolor
Burano and green-and-gold Torcello. Fol-low the sheep trail to Torcello’s Byzantine Cattedrale di Santa Maria Assunta, where the apse’s golden Madonna calmly stares down the blue devils opposite. Catch the boat back to Burano to admire extreme home-design colour schemes and hand-made lace at Museo del Merletto.
Murano, Burano & the Northern Islands (p147); Giudecca, Lido & the Southern Islands (p136)
R Take in the fiery passions of glass artisans at Murano’s legendary
fornaci (furnaces), and see their finest mo-ments showcased at the fabulously reno-vated Museo del Vetro (Glass Museum). After Murano showrooms close, hop the vaporetto to Giudecca for some spa-loving at the Bauer Palladio and unbeatable
views of San Marco glittering across glassy waters.
San Marco (p48)
N Celebrate your triumphant tour of the lagoon with a prosecco toast
Dinner Inventive Venetian cuisine beside the canal at Da Rioba (p112).
Lunch Housemade pasta lures gondo-lieri at Osteria Ruga di Jaffa (p130).
Dinner Wine and dine with artists and celebrities at Trattoria Altanella (p142).
Lunch Sunny Mazzorbo vineyards and inspired cuisine at Venissa (p157).
17PLAN
YOUR TRIP T
OP
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Walking Tour detourWalking Tour
Path/Walking Trail
BankEmbassy/ConsulateHospital/MedicalInternetPolicePost OfficeTelephoneToiletTourist InformationOther Information
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Venice & the Veneto Maps
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd266
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æ Top Sights (p50) ú Eating (p63) 1 Basilica di San Marco ................................ H4 23 Ai Mercanti .................................................. E4 2 Museo Correr .............................................. F5 24 Anonimo Veneziano................................... E5 3 Palazzo Ducale............................................H5 25 Bistrot de Venise .........................................F3 4 Palazzo Grassi.............................................A5 26 Caffè Mandola............................................. D4 5 Teatro La Fenice .........................................D5 27 DOK Dall'Ava LP26..................................... D3 28 Gelateria Suso ............................................ G2 æ Sights (p57) 29 Hostaria da Zorzi ........................................ E4 6 Campanile....................................................G5 30 Marchini Time ............................................. E3 7 Chiesa di San Moisè ................................... F6 31 Osteria da Carla...........................................F5 8 Chiesa di San Vidal .....................................B6 32 Rosa Salva....................................................F2 9 Chiesa di San Zulian ...................................G3 33 Rosticerria Gislon.......................................G2 10 Chiesa di Santa Maria del Giglio ...............D6 34 Trattoria e Bacaro Da Fiore....................... B5 11 Chiesa di Santo Stefano ............................C5 35 Trattoria Vini Da Arturo.............................D4 12 Museo.......................................................... H4
13 Museo della Musica ....................................C6 û Drinking & Nightlife (p65) 14 Museo Fortuny ............................................C4 36 Bacarando....................................................G1 15 Negozio Olivetti........................................... F5 37 Bar Longhi ................................................... D7 16 Pala d'Oro ................................................... H4 38 Caffè Centrale............................................. E5 17 Palazzo Contarini del Bovolo ....................E4 39 Caffè Florian................................................ G5 18 Palazzo Franchetti......................................B6 40 Caffè Lavena ...............................................G4 19 Ponte dell'Accademia ................................A7 41 Caffè Quadri ................................................G4 20 Ponte di Rialto ..............................................F1 42 Enoteca al Volto.......................................... D3 21 Tesoro ..........................................................H5 43 Harry's Bar .................................................. F6 22 Torre dell'Orologio..................................... G4 44 L'Ombra del Leoni ...................................... F6 45 Osteria All'Alba ............................................ F1
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Arco 46 Osteria San Marco...................................... F5 67 Libreria Studium.........................................H4 47 Palazzo Franchetti Caffè ...........................B6 68 L'Isola............................................................F5 48 Teamo ..........................................................C4 69 Malefatte ..................................................... B5 70 Materialmente .............................................F3 ý Entertainment (p67) 71 Ottica Carraro.............................................D4 Interpreti Veneziani............................ (see 8) 72 Pagine e Cuoio............................................ E5 49 Multisala Rossini.........................................D4 73 Sigfrido Cipolato.........................................D4 50 Musica a Palazzo ........................................C6 74 Venetia Studium.........................................D6 51 Teatro Goldoni ............................................E3 75 Venetian Dreams........................................D4
þ Shopping (p67) ÿ Sleeping (p189) 52 Antica Modisteria Giuliana Longo ............ F2 76 Albergo San Samuele ................................B4 53 Arcobaleno ..................................................B5 77 B&B Al Teatro .............................................D6 54 Arnoldo & Battois .......................................E4 78 Bloom & 7 Cielo .......................................... B5 55 Caigo da Mar ...............................................B5 79 Ca' del Nobile .............................................. F4 56 Camuffo .......................................................G3 80 Corte di Gabriela.........................................C4 57 Charta.......................................................... G4 81 Giò & Giò......................................................D6 58 Chiarastella Cattana...................................B4 82 Gritti Palace................................................. D7 59 Daniela Ghezzo ...........................................E4 83 Hotel Ai Do Mori..........................................H4 60 Declare .........................................................D4 84 Hotel Al Codega.......................................... E4 61 Esperienze ...................................................G3 85 Hotel Flora................................................... E6 62 Fiorella Gallery ............................................B6 86 Locanda Art Deco....................................... B5 63 Galleria La Salizada ....................................B4 87 Locanda Casa Petrarca............................. E4 64 Godi Fiorenza ..............................................E4 88 Locanda Orseolo ........................................ F4 65 Le Botteghe della Solidarietà.................... F2 89 Novecento ...................................................C6 66 Le Burle Veneziane.....................................B5 90 Palazzo Paruta............................................C4
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æ Top Sights (p73) 15 Bar alla Toletta............................................ E3 1 Ca' Rezzonico.............................................. E2 16 Enoteca Ai Artisti ........................................ D3 2 Gallerie dell'Accademia ............................. E3 17 Grom ............................................................ D2 3 Peggy Guggenheim Collection.................. F3 18 Impronta Café..............................................D1 4 Punta della Dogana ................................... H3 19 Pasticceria Tonolo ......................................D1 20 Pizza Al Volo................................................ D2 æ Sights (p76) Ristorante La Bitta ............................ (see 13) 5 Basilica di Santa Maria della 21 Ristorante San Trovaso............................. E4 Salute ....................................................... H4 22 Ristoteca Oniga .......................................... D2 6 Ca' Dario.......................................................G3
7 Chiesa dei Gesuati ......................................E4 û Drinking & Nightlife (p80) 8 Chiesa di San Nicolò dei Mendicoli...........A2 23 Ai Do Draghi .................................................D1 9 Chiesa di San Sebastiano ..........................B3 24 Ai Pugni........................................................ D2 10 Magazzini del Sale ..................................... G4 25 Cantinone Già Schiavi................................ E4 11 Scuola Grande dei Carmini........................C2 26 Estro..............................................................D1 12 Squero di San Trovaso...............................D4 27 Il Caffè Rosso ...............................................D1 28 Imagina Café............................................... D2 ú Eating (p79) 29 Osteria Al Squero ....................................... E4 13 Ai Quattro Feri .............................................D2 30 Tea Room Beatrice .................................... D3 14 Al Vecio Marangon......................................E3
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ý Entertainment (p81) 46 Segni nel Tempo......................................... D2 31 Il Piccolo Mondo.......................................... E3 47 Signor Blum ................................................ D2 Musica in Maschera........................... (see 11)
32 Venice Jazz Club .........................................D2 ÿ Sleeping (p191) 48 B&B Corte Vecchia ....................................G4 þ Shopping (p82) B&B Dorsoduro 461 ......................... (see 48) 33 Antiquariato Claudia Canestrelli.............. G4 49 B&B Leonardo ............................................ D2 34 Arras ............................................................. E2 50 Ca' Pisani ..................................................... E4 35 Ca' Macana ..................................................D2 51 Hotel Galleria ...............................................F3 36 Danghyra......................................................D2 52 La Calcina .................................................... E4 37 Gualti ............................................................D2 53 La Chicca ..................................................... F4 38 L'Angolo del Passato ..................................D2 54 Locanda Ca' del Brocchi............................ F4 39 Lauretta Vistosi...........................................D2 55 Locanda San Barnaba ............................... E2 40 Le Forcole di Saverio Pastor .................... G4 56 Palazzo Guardi............................................ E3 Madera ................................................(see 17) 57 Pensione Accademia Villa 41 Madera .........................................................D3 Maravege.................................................. E3 42 Marina e Susanna Sent .............................. F4 58 Silk Road...................................................... C3 43 Paolo Olbi......................................................E1
44 Papuni Art ....................................................D2
45 PerlaMadreDesign ......................................D2
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SAN POLO & SANTA CROCE Map on p274
æ Top Sights (p86) ý Entertainment (p100) 1 I Frari.............................................................B6 44 Casa Del Cinema ........................................ D2 2 Rialto Market ...............................................G3 45 Palazetto Bru Zane .................................... B4 3 Scuola Grande di San Rocco .....................A6 46 Scuola Grande di San Giovanni Evangelista ............................................... B4 æ Sights (p89)
4 Ca' Pesaro.................................................... E2 þ Shopping (p100) 5 Casa di Carlo Goldoni .................................C7 47 Alberto Sarria Masks .................................G4 6 Chiesa di San Giacomo dell'Orio ..............C3 48 Anatema ...................................................... C6 7 Chiesa di San Giovanni 49 Campiello Ca' Zen ......................................C6 Elemosinario............................................ G4 50 Cárte ............................................................ F4 8 Chiesa di San Polo ......................................D6 Casa del Parmigiano ........................ (see 35) 9 Chiesa di San Rocco ...................................A6 51 Damocle Edizioni ........................................ E5 10 Chiesa di San Stae ......................................E2 52 Declare......................................................... C6 11 Fondazione Prada....................................... F2 53 Dietrolangolo .............................................. C6 12 Il Gobbo ....................................................... H4 54 Drogheria Mascari......................................G4 13 Museo di Storia Naturale di 55 Farmacia Burati .......................................... D6 Venezia...................................................... C1 56 Franco Furlanetto....................................... C7 14 Palazzo Mocenigo.......................................D2 57 Gilberto Penzo ............................................ C6 15 Pescaria .......................................................G3 58 Giuseppe Tinti ............................................. E3 16 Ponte delle Tette.........................................E4 59 Gmeiner ........................................................F5 17 Scuola Grande di San Giovanni 60 I Vetri a Lume di Amadi ............................. C6 Evangelista ...............................................A4 61 Il Baule Blu................................................... B7 62 Il Pavone di Paolo Pelosin.......................... E5 ú Eating (p95) 63 La Margherita.............................................. E3 18 Al Ponte Storto............................................ E5 64 Laberintho ................................................... D4 19 Alaska Gelateria ..........................................A2 65 Marco Bergamasco....................................G3 20 All'Arco ........................................................ G4 66 Michela Pavan Gallery ............................... C4 21 Antica Besseta ............................................B2 67 Mille e Una Nota.......................................... E6 22 Antiche Carampane ...................................E4 68 Murra............................................................ G4 23 Antico Forno ................................................G5 69 Nerodiseppia............................................... A2 24 Birraria La Corte .........................................D5 70 Oh My Blue .................................................. B7 25 Dai Zemei .....................................................G5 71 Ottica Vascellari ..........................................F5 26 Frary's ..........................................................B5 72 Pied à Terre .................................................G4 27 Il Vizietto ......................................................B5 73 Rialto Biocenter .......................................... E3 28 Muro ............................................................. E3 74 Sabbie e Nebbie.......................................... C7 29 Osteria La Zucca .........................................C2 75 Scriba........................................................... B6 30 Osteria Mocenigo........................................D2 76 Veneziastampa ........................................... E3 31 Osteria Trefanti ...........................................A3 77 VizioVirtù ..................................................... B7 32 Pasticceria Rizzardini.................................E6
33 Snack Bar Ai Nomboli ................................C6 Ø Sports & Activities (p102) 34 Trattoria da Ignazio ....................................C6 78 Venice Italian School.................................. B5
û Drinking & Nightlife (p98) ÿ Sleeping (p192) 35 Al Mercà ...................................................... H4 79 Al Gallion...................................................... A2 36 Al Prosecco..................................................C2 80 Al Ponte Mocenigo ..................................... E2 37 Barcollo ....................................................... G4 81 Ca' Angeli..................................................... E6 38 Caffè dei Frari ..............................................B5 82 Campiello Zen ..............................................B1 39 Caffè del Doge .............................................G5 83 Domina Home Ca' Zusto ........................... B2 40 Cantina Do Spade ...................................... G4 84 Hotel al Duca................................................C1 41 Do Mori........................................................ G4 85 Hotel Palazzo Barbarigo............................ D7 42 Osteria da Filo .............................................C3 86 Oltre il Giardino........................................... C5 43 Taverna da Baffo.........................................C5 87 Pensione Guerrato .....................................G4
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ú Eating (p95) þ Shopping (p104) 1 Al Bacco Felice ............................................C3 5 Mare di Carta .............................................. C3 2 Coop .............................................................A2
3 Ristorante Ribot ..........................................C4 ÿ Sleeping (p192) 6 Ca' della Corte ............................................ C4 û Drinking & Nightlife (p98)
4 Bacareto Da Lele.........................................C3
27 7
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æ Top Sights (p107) 11 Schola Levantina........... C2 22 Osteria Alla Vedova ...... F4 1 Chiesa di Santa Maria 12 Schola Spagnola ........... C2 23 Osteria Boccadoro........H5 dei Miracoli ................. H5 13 Spezieria Antica Santa 24 Osteria Da Alberto ........H5 2 The Ghetto..................... C2 Fosca ........................... E3 25 Osteria L'Orto dei Mori.............................. E2 æ Sights (p109) ú Eating (p110) 26 Panificio Volpe 3 Arzanà ............................ D2 14 Ai Promessi Sposi......... F4 Giovanni ...................... C2 4 Banco Rosso.................. D2 15 Alle Due Gondolette.......B1 27 Pasticceria Dal Mas ...... B3 5 Ca' d'Oro .........................F4 16 Anice Stellato .................D1 28 Rizzo ............................... C3 6 Campo dei Mori............. E2 17 Cantina Aziende 29 Trattoria da Bepi Già 7 Chiesa della Madonna Agricole ....................... D2 "54" .............................. G5 dell'Orto........................ E1 18 Da Rioba......................... E2
8 I Gesuiti ..........................H3 19 Dalla Marisa ................... A2 û Drinking & Nightlife (p112) 9 Schola Canton............... C2 20 Gelateria Ca' d'Oro ....... F4 30 Agli Ormesini ................. D2 10 Schola Italiana............... C2 21 La Cantina...................... E4 31 Al Parlamento................ B2
278
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0 500 m0 0.25 miles#e
32 Al Timon ......................... D2 43 Teatro Fondamenta 53 Mercantino dei 33 Dodo Caffè..................... C2 Nuove ..........................G2 Miracoli........................H5 34 El Sbarlefo......................G4 44 Teatro Malibran............. G5 54 Nicolao Atelier............... E2 35 Il Santo Bevitore............ E3 55 Virginia Preo 36 MQ10 .............................. B2 þ Shopping (p114) Cashmere.................... G5 37 Torrefazione 45 Antichità al Ghetto........ C2 56 Vittorio Costantini.........H4 Cannaregio ................. C3 46 Atelier Leonardo ........... C3
38 Un Mondo Di Vino ......... G5 47 Balducci Borse .............. C3 Ø Sports & Activities (p116) 39 Vino Vero ........................F3 48 Brands ............................ C3 57 Bottega del Tintoretto.. E2 49 Dolceamaro ................... G5 58 Brussa ............................ C3 ý Entertainment (p114) 50 Gianni Basso..................H4 59 Fallani Venezia ..............G4 40 Casinò Di Venezia ......... D3 51 L'Armadio di Coco ........H5 60 Orsoni Mosaici............... B2 41 Cinema Giorgione 52 Libreria Internazionale 61 Row Venice .....................F2 Movie D'essai.............. G4 Marco Polo.................. G5 62 Venice Urban 42 Paradiso Perduto.......... E2 Adventures ................. E3
279
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Canale di San Marco
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CASTELLO Map on p280
æ Top Sights (p119) 42 Osteria di Santa Marina............................. A2 1 Arsenale .......................................................G2 43 Osteria Ruga di Jaffa.................................. B3 2 Giardini Pubblici......................................... G6 44 Pasticceria Da Bonifacio ...........................B4 3 Scuola di San Giorgio degli Schiavoni......C3 45 Trattoria alla Rampa .................................. G5 4 Zanipolo ....................................................... B1 46 Trattoria Corte Sconta ..............................D4
æ Sights (p123) û Drinking & Nightlife (p132) 5 Arsenale Nuovissimo ................................. F3 47 Al Portego.................................................... A2 6 Arsenale Nuovo...........................................E4 48 Bacaro Risorto............................................ B4 7 Arsenale Vecchio ........................................E3 49 Bar Terazza Danieli .................................... B4 8 Cattedrale di San Pietro di Castello ........ H4 50 Enoteca Mascareta .................................... B2 9 Chiesa di San Francesco della Vigna .......D2 51 La Serra dei Giardini ..................................G6 10 Chiesa di San Giorgio dei Greci.................C3 52 Paradiso....................................................... G7 11 Chiesa di San Giovanni in Bragora ...........D4 53 Rosa Salva................................................... B2 12 Chiesa di San Lio.........................................A2 54 STRANI .........................................................F5 13 Chiesa di San Martino ................................D4
14 Chiesa di San Zaccaria...............................C4 ý Entertainment (p133) 15 Chiesa di Santa Maria Formosa................B3 Concerts at La Pietà..........................(see 16) 16 La Pietà.........................................................C4 55 Laboratorio Occupato Morion..................D2 17 La Tana.........................................................F4
18 Monument to the Partisan Woman......... G6 þ Shopping (p133) 19 Museo della Fondazione Querini 56 Al Campanil ................................................. B2 Stampalia..................................................B3 57 Atelier Alessandro Merlin..........................D4 20 Museo delle Icone.......................................C3 58 Ballarin.........................................................C2 21 Museo Diocesano di Venezia ....................B4 59 Banco Lotto 10............................................D4 22 Museo Storico Navale ................................E5 60 Bragorà........................................................D3 23 Ospedaletto .................................................C2 61 Fabricharte..................................................C2 24 Padiglione delle Navi ..................................E4 62 Giovanna Zanella........................................ A2 25 Palazzo Grimani..........................................B3 63 Kalimala Cuoieria ....................................... A3 Palazzo Querini Stampalia .............. (see 19) 64 Paolo Brandolisio ....................................... B3 26 Porta Magna................................................E4 QShop .................................................(see 19) 27 Riva degli Schiavoni....................................D4
28 Scuola Grande di San Marco..................... B1 Ø Sports & Activities (p135) 29 Sotoportego dei Preti.................................D4 65 Reali Wellness Spa ..................................... A3 30 Statue of Bartolomeo Colleoni..................B2 VeniceArtFactory ..............................(see 31) 31 Venice in a Bottle ........................................ F5 Yoga Venezia ..................................... (see 51)
ú Eating (p130) ÿ Sleeping (p195) 32 Al Covo .........................................................D4 66 Alloggi Barbaria .......................................... C2 33 Alla Basilica..................................................B4 67 Aqua Palace ................................................ A3 34 Alla Rivetta...................................................B4 68 B&B San Marco .......................................... C3 35 Alle Testiere.................................................A3 69 Ca' Dei Dogi.................................................B4 36 Cip Ciap........................................................B3 70 Foresteria Valdese ..................................... B2 37 CoVino..........................................................D4 71 Hotel Danieli................................................B4 38 Didovich .......................................................A2 72 Hotel Sant'Antonin..................................... D3 39 Il Giardinetto - da Severino........................B3 73 iQS ................................................................ B3 40 Il Nuovo Galeon........................................... F5 74 Locanda Sant'Anna.................................... G5 41 Le Spighe ..................................................... F5 75 Residenza L'Osmarin................................. B3
282
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aggiore
Rio
Morto
Canale della Grazia
Rio delle
Convertite
Rio dellaCroce
Grand Canal
Rio M
alpaga
Rio del Ponte Lungo
Rio di
Ognissanti
Canale di Fusina
Canale dellaG
iudeccaRio di San Vio
Rio della Fornace
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Cam
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po San G
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podella Salute
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eneziaForesteriaR
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18
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p268
ji
See map
p274
hg See map
p284
ji
See map
p272
CD
B
CD
EB
A
4 3 2 1
A
14
E
23
# e
DSacca Fisola(500m
)
0500
m0
0.25miles
æ Top Sights
(p138)
1 Chiesa di S
an Giorgio M
aggiore...............E2
2 Fondazione G
iorgio Cini............................E2
æ Sights
(p139)
3 Casa dei Tre O
ci.........................................D2
4
Chiesa del S
antissimo R
edentore...........C
3
5 Chiesa delle Zitelle
.....................................D2
6 La N
uova Manica Lunga............................E2
7 S
pazio Punch..............................................A
2 ú
Eating
(p142)
8 Food + Art...................................................B
3
9 Giudecca O
rganic Market.........................A
2
10 H
arry's Dolci...............................................A
2
11 La Palanca...................................................B
2
12 Trattoria Ai C
acciatori...............................B3
13 Trattoria A
ltanella......................................B
3 û
Drinking &
Nightlife
(p144)
14 S
kyline Rooftop B
ar...................................A2
ý Entertainm
ent (p144)
Teatro Junghans.................................(see 8)
þ Shopping
(p145)
15 C
artavenezia..............................................A
3
16 Fortuny Tessuti Artistici...........................A
2
17 Laura Mirè D
esign......................................A
3 Ø
Sports & A
ctivities (p145)
18 Yoga V
enezia..............................................B
2
283
lIDo
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ENEZ
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No 17 CarFerry to
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VeneziaLagunaVeneta
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D
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D
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(p141)
1 Antico C
imitero Israelitico
.........................E1
2 Malam
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2
3 Monastero di S
an Lazzaro degli
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4
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......................................B2
5 P
alazzo della Mostra del C
inema
............C4
6 P
ineta degli Alberoni.................................A
4 ú
Eating
(p143)
7 al Mercà.......................................................D
2
8 Al P
onte di Borgo
.......................................B2
9 El P
ecador...................................................D2
10
La Favorita..................................................E2
11 Le G
arzette.................................................B
3
12 Magiche V
oglie...........................................D
2
13 Mercato S
ettimanale de Lido
...................C4
û D
rinking & N
ightlife
(p144)
14 D
a Cri C
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15 Lepanto
.......................................................D2
16 Lion's B
ar....................................................C4
17 V
illa Laguna................................................C
2 Ø
Sports & A
ctivities (p145)
18 B
lue Moon
...................................................D2
19 C
ircolo del Golf V
enezia............................A
4 20
Heliair V
enice..............................................E1
21 Lido on B
ike................................................D
2
22 Surf C
lub Venezia
......................................D3
# e0
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0 500 m0 0.25 miles
æ Sights (p150) 8 Davide Penso .............................................. C2 1 Basilica dei SS Maria e Donato .................D2 9 ElleElle.......................................................... B3 2 Museo del Vetro ..........................................D2 10 Marina e Susanna Sent Studio ................. A3 Toffolo Gallery ................................... (see 13) ú Eating (p156) 11 Venini ........................................................... B4 3 Acquastanca................................................B3
4 Gelateria al Ponte .......................................C2 Ø Sports & Activities (p151) 5 Osteria al Duomo ........................................D2 12 Scuola del Vetro Abate Zanetti ................ C3 6 Osteria La Perla – Ai Bisatei......................C2
ÿ Sleeping (p198) þ Shopping (p158) 13 Murano Palace ............................................ B3 7 Campagnol & Salvadore ............................B3 14 Villa Lina....................................................... B3
285
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Torcello
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ariaAssunta
6 4
12
13
Torcello
DVaporetto(500m
)
DMurano
DTorcello (1km)
(see inset)
0100
m
æ Top Sights
(p149)
1 Basilica di S
anta Maria A
ssunta..............C
4 æ
Sights (p151)
2 C
hiesa di San M
artino...............................E3
3 C
hiesa di Santa Fosca
...............................B4
4
Museo A
rcheologico di Torcello..............B
3
5 Museo del M
erletto....................................E3
6 Trono d'A
ttila..............................................B4
ú Eating
(p157)
7 A
lla Maddalena
............................................B1
8 C
affè-Bar P
almisano
.................................D2
Locanda C
ipriani...............................(see 12)
9 Trattoria al Gatto N
ero..............................D
3
10 Trattoria da P
rimo
.....................................D2
V
enissa...............................................(see 13)
þ Shopping
(p159)
11 Em
ilia...........................................................D
3 ÿ
Sleeping
(p198)
12 Locanda Cipriani........................................B
4
13 Venissa
.........................................................B1
00.25
miles
0500
m
286
No
TEs
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Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty LtdABN 36 005 607 9839th edition – January 2016ISBN 978 1 74321 681 1© Lonely Planet 2016 Photographs © as indicated 201610 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in ChinaAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.
Cristian BonettoPlan Your Trip, Neighbourhoods at a Glance, Dorsoduro, San Polo & Santa Croce, Day Trips from Venice, Venice Today, Architecture, The Arts Venice and the Veneto feel very much like home to Cristian Bonetto. The travel writer’s father was born and raised in the region and Cristian has no shortage of cugini (cousins) scattered between the Venetian Lagoon and Dolomites. Add to this a love of Palladian architecture, grappa and bawdy Venetian humour and the appeal
becomes even clearer. The former TV scriptwriter has been writing about Italy for over a decade, his musings appearing in magazines and newspapers around the world. To date, Cristian has contrib-uted to over 30 Lonely Planet guides, including Italy, Naples, Pompeii & the Amalfi Coast, New York City, Denmark, Scandinavia and Singapore. You can follow Cristian’s adventures on Twitter (@CristianBonetto) and on Instagram (rexcat75). Cristian also contributed to the Sleeping chapter.
Paula HardySan Marco, Cannaregio, Castello, Giudecca, Lido & the Southern Islands, Murano, Burano & the Northern Islands, History, The Fragile Lagoon, Transport, Directory From Lido beaches to annual Biennales and spritz-fuelled bacari, Paula has contributed to Lonely Planet’s Italian guides for over 15 years, including previous editions of Venice & the Veneto, Pocket Milan & the Lakes,
The Italian Lakes, Sicily and Sardinia. When she’s not scooting around the bel paese, she writes for a variety of travel publications and websites. Currently she divides her time between London, Italy and Morocco, and tweets her finds @paula6hardy. Paula also wrote the Need To Know and Tours chapters, and contributed to the Sleeping chapter.
Our StoryA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.
Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.
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