Toy Scooter - The Woodworkers Institute
Transcript of Toy Scooter - The Woodworkers Institute
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Toy scooter
MONDAY 18 JULY 2011
James Hatter's fab toy for kids
1.The completed scooter
The popularity of toy scooters is very evident, with
the abundance of youngsters eagerly fizzing along
pathways. A particular increase is with versions for
children that can be enjoyed by three-year-olds,
although some two-year-olds are getting in on
the act! With parental guidance, these are also auseful learning tool for
balance and coordination. A recent development
has been the lean and steer type, with two wheels
in the front and one at the back. These use a
sprung pivotal system. Alternatively, a scooter with
two wheels at the back and one in front gives a
similar stabilising effect, but are steered in the
normal way.
Safety First
There are important issues that must be addressed when
making toys. These relate to the safe practices and materials
used to ensure they do not pose a risk to the young user. A
clear guidance is found in the European Toy Standards EN71,and these must be adhered to. Essentially, the structure must
not use hazardous materials, or have features that can cause
injury. These standards have been followed in the construction
of the scooters featured in this project. The materials used
include plywood and hardwood, all edges have been rounded,
and finished with a low VOC water-based varnish or paint.
The screws and other fixing items have had PVA adhesive
added to give protection against becoming loose, and wood
plugs used to cover most screw heads. The final nuts used
have a nylon insert to reduce the risk of loosening. The
steering joint has been limited to ensure that it does not
become a finger trap. Having taken all steps to ensure this, it
must be stressed that a toy of this type should only be used
while there is a responsible person present, and a safety
helmet should be worn. The larger wheels used for this project
are 102mm diameter moulded disc type. They have a hub
width of 20mm and a bore of 6.35mm. The rear wheel used in
version two is a 50mm fixed wheel castor. The spindles used
for the moulded wheels are M6 roofing bolts.
Cross dowels are used to secure the front steering columnsupport parts, and to the deck. These provide a very strong
joint. These require a 6mm hole to take the cross dowel screw
and a 10mm hole to take the cross dowel. It is preferable for
the 10mm hole not to be drilled all the way through, for added
strength.
General Information
Moulded Disc wheels used are 102mm, Ref DW102 supplied
by Hobbies Ltd.
Tel: 01508 549333
Website
Adhesive, PVA adhesive, screws, roofing bolts, cross dowels,
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This project looks at two designs:
one with two wheels at the back and one in the
front; the other had two wheels in the front and one
at the back, although both versions had the normal
steering function. Both versions have been tested
and proved to be strong and stable in use, and both
versions are described. Both versions are intended
for three- to four-year-olds.
Step 1
First, cut the deck blank to size using 12mm
plywood. Then cut out the indents that will recess
the rear wheels
Step 2
A table saw can be used to remove the unwanted
pieces, alternatively use a bandsaw or hand saw
Step 3
Cut the front sides of the blank to a taperStep 4
Cut a reinforcing plate using 6mm ply and attach to
the bottom of the deck using screws and adhesive.
Make sure that the threads of the screws have
adhesive on them to reduce the risk of a screw
coming loose
Step 5
The deck can now have the edges painted and
varnish applied. Use safe water-based finishes. Cut
support blocks for the rear wheels, using ahardwood for strength. Then drill 6mm diameter
holes to take the wheel spindles
Step 6
Attach the blocks to the top of the deck using
adhesive and screws
Step 7
Cut the components for the front steering column
support. Use a hardwood for strength and durability
Step 8
Drill the holes for the cross dowel bolts and cross
dowel, plus an additional 6mm hole for a wooden
dowel and one screw hole at the top. Add an
extension piece to the front of the support
Step 9
Drill an 8mm diameter hole through the front of the
support to take the steering spindle. Round over the
front
Step 10
Assemble the front support using adhesive and one
counter bored screw to attach the top piece to the
lower piece
Step 11
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Insert a cross dowel and screw, and tighten firmly
using an Allen key. When assembled, soften all
edges
Step 12
Insert a wood plug to cover the screw head. This
method is used with most other visible screws to
ensure the screws will not loosen
Step 13
Support the front steering upright in a vice or
similar, making sure that it is plumb. Drill a 8mm
hole to a depth of 30mm, for the steering spindle
Step 14
Cut the components for the front steering column.
Cut matching size 20 biscuit slots and additional
screw fitting holes. Drill an 8mm hole centrally in the
small lower support block. This, together with the
hole drilled in the front steering upright, are used to
support the steering spindle
Step 15
Join the components together using the biscuits and
adhesive, and additional screws.
Step 16
Join the final outside components then cover the
screw heads with wood plugs. The completed
assembly can have a clear acrylic varnish applied
Step 17
Cut the handle bar support to size and use a 25mm
Forstner bit to neatly bore the hole. Join to the top
of the front steering upright using adhesive and
screws
Step 18
The steering swivel spindle is 8mm diameter. Use a
plain rod if you have one available. Alternatively,
use a length of 8mm threaded rod and wrap
plumbers' PTFE tape around the threads. This will
give a better tolerance and provide slight lubricating
properties
Step 19
Place the spindle in position with a washer at the
top and bottom of the front of the steering column
support. Engage the spindle in the holes drilled in
the bottom of the steering shaft, and the lower
support block
Step 20
Push the lower support block firmly so that the front
of the steering column support is a snug but free
moving fit. Tighten screws into the block to securein position
Step 21
The wheel is positioned midway in the gap. Use an
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M6 x 100mm roofing bolt that uses nuts and
washers to centralise and secure. Use a final nylon
insert nut
Step 22
Attach the bottom of the front steering support
column using adhesive and the cross dowel fixings.
In addition, a 6mm wood dowel is positioned
between the cross dowel fixings
Step 23
The rear wheels use M6 roofing bolts as spindles.
PTFE tape is again used
Step 24
Feed the remainder of each bolt through the blocks
Step 25
Secure each wheel spindle in position, ensuring that
the wheel can be rotated with minimal friction. Use a
nylon insert nut and
a touch of adhesive to lock the wheel spindle in
position
Step 26
Attach a wheel shield strip into position
Step 27
Feed a length of 25mm dowel through the hole
bored at the top of the front steering upright, and
secure with a screw and adhesive. The scooter is
now complete
Construction differences for scooter with two front wheels
For the scooter with two front wheels, the deck is narrower and a slot is cut
at the rear to take a single wheel.
The wheel chosen was a 50mm fixed castor. Alternatively, a larger wheel
could be used and mounted through the slot, with support blocks either
side.
Cut and attach a reinforcing plate to the bottom of the deck as with the
other scooter, but making allowances for the single wheel.
The castor is fitted on with angled spacers which are glued, screwed and
finally bolted in place, before a thin wood cover is added.
The angled spacers allow the wheel to be raised so that the deck is about
35mm above ground level.
Attach a wheel on each of the front steering column legs using M6 roofingbolts, washers and a nylon insert nut.
Attach the steering column support to the deck using cross dowel fixings
and adhesive. And there we have the alternative build.
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