Toy Scooter - The Woodworkers Institute

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    Toy scooter

    MONDAY 18 JULY 2011

    James Hatter's fab toy for kids

    1.The completed scooter

    The popularity of toy scooters is very evident, with

    the abundance of youngsters eagerly fizzing along

    pathways. A particular increase is with versions for

    children that can be enjoyed by three-year-olds,

    although some two-year-olds are getting in on

    the act! With parental guidance, these are also auseful learning tool for

    balance and coordination. A recent development

    has been the lean and steer type, with two wheels

    in the front and one at the back. These use a

    sprung pivotal system. Alternatively, a scooter with

    two wheels at the back and one in front gives a

    similar stabilising effect, but are steered in the

    normal way.

    Safety First

    There are important issues that must be addressed when

    making toys. These relate to the safe practices and materials

    used to ensure they do not pose a risk to the young user. A

    clear guidance is found in the European Toy Standards EN71,and these must be adhered to. Essentially, the structure must

    not use hazardous materials, or have features that can cause

    injury. These standards have been followed in the construction

    of the scooters featured in this project. The materials used

    include plywood and hardwood, all edges have been rounded,

    and finished with a low VOC water-based varnish or paint.

    The screws and other fixing items have had PVA adhesive

    added to give protection against becoming loose, and wood

    plugs used to cover most screw heads. The final nuts used

    have a nylon insert to reduce the risk of loosening. The

    steering joint has been limited to ensure that it does not

    become a finger trap. Having taken all steps to ensure this, it

    must be stressed that a toy of this type should only be used

    while there is a responsible person present, and a safety

    helmet should be worn. The larger wheels used for this project

    are 102mm diameter moulded disc type. They have a hub

    width of 20mm and a bore of 6.35mm. The rear wheel used in

    version two is a 50mm fixed wheel castor. The spindles used

    for the moulded wheels are M6 roofing bolts.

    Cross dowels are used to secure the front steering columnsupport parts, and to the deck. These provide a very strong

    joint. These require a 6mm hole to take the cross dowel screw

    and a 10mm hole to take the cross dowel. It is preferable for

    the 10mm hole not to be drilled all the way through, for added

    strength.

    General Information

    Moulded Disc wheels used are 102mm, Ref DW102 supplied

    by Hobbies Ltd.

    Tel: 01508 549333

    Website

    Adhesive, PVA adhesive, screws, roofing bolts, cross dowels,

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    This project looks at two designs:

    one with two wheels at the back and one in the

    front; the other had two wheels in the front and one

    at the back, although both versions had the normal

    steering function. Both versions have been tested

    and proved to be strong and stable in use, and both

    versions are described. Both versions are intended

    for three- to four-year-olds.

    Step 1

    First, cut the deck blank to size using 12mm

    plywood. Then cut out the indents that will recess

    the rear wheels

    Step 2

    A table saw can be used to remove the unwanted

    pieces, alternatively use a bandsaw or hand saw

    Step 3

    Cut the front sides of the blank to a taperStep 4

    Cut a reinforcing plate using 6mm ply and attach to

    the bottom of the deck using screws and adhesive.

    Make sure that the threads of the screws have

    adhesive on them to reduce the risk of a screw

    coming loose

    Step 5

    The deck can now have the edges painted and

    varnish applied. Use safe water-based finishes. Cut

    support blocks for the rear wheels, using ahardwood for strength. Then drill 6mm diameter

    holes to take the wheel spindles

    Step 6

    Attach the blocks to the top of the deck using

    adhesive and screws

    Step 7

    Cut the components for the front steering column

    support. Use a hardwood for strength and durability

    Step 8

    Drill the holes for the cross dowel bolts and cross

    dowel, plus an additional 6mm hole for a wooden

    dowel and one screw hole at the top. Add an

    extension piece to the front of the support

    Step 9

    Drill an 8mm diameter hole through the front of the

    support to take the steering spindle. Round over the

    front

    Step 10

    Assemble the front support using adhesive and one

    counter bored screw to attach the top piece to the

    lower piece

    Step 11

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    Insert a cross dowel and screw, and tighten firmly

    using an Allen key. When assembled, soften all

    edges

    Step 12

    Insert a wood plug to cover the screw head. This

    method is used with most other visible screws to

    ensure the screws will not loosen

    Step 13

    Support the front steering upright in a vice or

    similar, making sure that it is plumb. Drill a 8mm

    hole to a depth of 30mm, for the steering spindle

    Step 14

    Cut the components for the front steering column.

    Cut matching size 20 biscuit slots and additional

    screw fitting holes. Drill an 8mm hole centrally in the

    small lower support block. This, together with the

    hole drilled in the front steering upright, are used to

    support the steering spindle

    Step 15

    Join the components together using the biscuits and

    adhesive, and additional screws.

    Step 16

    Join the final outside components then cover the

    screw heads with wood plugs. The completed

    assembly can have a clear acrylic varnish applied

    Step 17

    Cut the handle bar support to size and use a 25mm

    Forstner bit to neatly bore the hole. Join to the top

    of the front steering upright using adhesive and

    screws

    Step 18

    The steering swivel spindle is 8mm diameter. Use a

    plain rod if you have one available. Alternatively,

    use a length of 8mm threaded rod and wrap

    plumbers' PTFE tape around the threads. This will

    give a better tolerance and provide slight lubricating

    properties

    Step 19

    Place the spindle in position with a washer at the

    top and bottom of the front of the steering column

    support. Engage the spindle in the holes drilled in

    the bottom of the steering shaft, and the lower

    support block

    Step 20

    Push the lower support block firmly so that the front

    of the steering column support is a snug but free

    moving fit. Tighten screws into the block to securein position

    Step 21

    The wheel is positioned midway in the gap. Use an

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    M6 x 100mm roofing bolt that uses nuts and

    washers to centralise and secure. Use a final nylon

    insert nut

    Step 22

    Attach the bottom of the front steering support

    column using adhesive and the cross dowel fixings.

    In addition, a 6mm wood dowel is positioned

    between the cross dowel fixings

    Step 23

    The rear wheels use M6 roofing bolts as spindles.

    PTFE tape is again used

    Step 24

    Feed the remainder of each bolt through the blocks

    Step 25

    Secure each wheel spindle in position, ensuring that

    the wheel can be rotated with minimal friction. Use a

    nylon insert nut and

    a touch of adhesive to lock the wheel spindle in

    position

    Step 26

    Attach a wheel shield strip into position

    Step 27

    Feed a length of 25mm dowel through the hole

    bored at the top of the front steering upright, and

    secure with a screw and adhesive. The scooter is

    now complete

    Construction differences for scooter with two front wheels

    For the scooter with two front wheels, the deck is narrower and a slot is cut

    at the rear to take a single wheel.

    The wheel chosen was a 50mm fixed castor. Alternatively, a larger wheel

    could be used and mounted through the slot, with support blocks either

    side.

    Cut and attach a reinforcing plate to the bottom of the deck as with the

    other scooter, but making allowances for the single wheel.

    The castor is fitted on with angled spacers which are glued, screwed and

    finally bolted in place, before a thin wood cover is added.

    The angled spacers allow the wheel to be raised so that the deck is about

    35mm above ground level.

    Attach a wheel on each of the front steering column legs using M6 roofingbolts, washers and a nylon insert nut.

    Attach the steering column support to the deck using cross dowel fixings

    and adhesive. And there we have the alternative build.

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