thedraftmag 05

Issue _ #05 / Theme_ FREE

Concept / Photo EditorPEDRO MATOS

Concept / Graphic LayoutMÁRIO CORREIA

Fashion EditorsFREDERICA SANTOSJÃO RIBEIRO

Beauty EditorRITA LACERDA

Issue Contributors :

Photography_

Antonio NascimentoCarlos RodriguesConny KirsteDaniel PiresHeike HimmelMaria Bastos VasconcelosMarta GuimarãesMohzine Ait FaresSimone LezziTakashi HiranoThierry FeretValeria Mittelman

Fashion_

Ana FontinhaFrancesca BoccaJoana MargaridaNatalia WitschkeOlga Noronha (Jewelry)Silvana QueridoValentim Quaresma (Jewelry)

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Beauty_

Ana CabralCarinna WittmannElisa SetubalLoredana CaldaroNathalie GrosPatricia MakoschRose HellewellSilvia Ferreira

So what’s the deal?

THE DRAFT MAG is a nontraditional independent publication dedicated to stretching the boundaries of self expression in photography, music, illustration, lyrics etc. THE DRAFT MAG presents artists’ work from around the world as a free e-magazine.

The Concept

Creating a hub to inspire and enable collaboration between artists, and serve as meeting place with the audience in the form of an online social community. At the draft you can find the edgy and the trendy. Here is where art lives and evolves.

Feedback

THE DRAFT MAG is created by the artists themselves, and by their audience. It is the viewer generated content that shapes the monthly issue, and all we do as editors is gather and present it to you. We encourage anyone that would like to create new content, or respond to what is presented to submit their artwork and commentary.

Cover / Issue _ #05 / Theme_ FREE

Photography: Pedro MatosAssisted by Mario CorreiaStyling: Paulo Subtil Frederica Santos Joana MargaridaModel: Rodrigo @ Global Models Management

Sunglasses Fly LondonShirt Decenio

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hat makerMIMOSA @ HIMO

www.himo.mimosapale.com

modelLUISE HAUSCHILD @

Seeds model managment www.seedsmanagement.de

photographyVALERIA MITELMAN www.valeriamitelman.com

hair&makeupPATRICIA MAKOSCH www.patricia-makosch.com

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Photography: Pedro Matos

Assisted by Mario Correia

Styling: Frederica Santos

and Joana Margarida

Make up and Hair: Rita Lacerda

Assisted by Madalena Lacerda

Models: Rodrigo @ Global Models ManagementKatya Goncharova Sushy Kun

Special Thanks: ShowpressPaulo SubtilNuno BacelarAntonio Nascimento

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Models: Rodrigo @ Global Models ManagementKatya Goncharova Sushy Kun

Special Thanks: ShowpressPaulo SubtilNuno BacelarAntonio Nascimento

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RODRIGO:Blazer, Gant by Michael Bastian // Shirt, 55DSL // Tie, Miguel Vieira // Shorts, Dino AlvesBelt, Lacoste // Shoes, productionKATYA:Jumpsuit, Diesel // Clutch, LuÌs Onofre // Shoes, Diesel SUSHY:Jumpsuit, Nuno Baltazar // Belt, Nuno Baltazar // Clutch, Luís Onofre // Shoes, Luís Onofre

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Swimsuit briefs, Dino Alves // Pants, Dino Alves

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RODRIGO:Trench Coat, Henry Cotton’s // Cardigan, 55DSL // Shirt, Miguel Vieira // Tie, Miguel VieiraBelt, Lacoste // Pants, Gant // Shoes, Fly London // Glasses, Chilli beansSUSHY:Dress, Decenio // Bag, LuÌs Onofre // Shoes, LuÌs Onofre KATYA:Dress, Diesel // Belt, Diesel // Shoes, LuÌs Onofre

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RODRIGO:Blazer, Gant by Michael Bastian // Cardigan, Lacoste // Shirt, Lacoste // Scarf, Fernanda Pereira // Pants, Decenio // Shoes, Fly London KATYA:Top, Miguel Vieira // Pants, Gant

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RODRIGO:Trench Coat, Diesel // Shirt, Gant by Michael Bastian // Shorts, Gant by Michael Bastian //Bow tie, Gant // Shoes, Fly London // Glasses, Chilli Beans KATYA:Mullet shirt, Nuno Baltazar // Swimsuit, Os Burgueses // Shoes, LuÌs OnofreSUSHY:Dress, Os Burgueses // Shorts, Os Burgueses // Shoes, LuÌs Onofre

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SUSHY:Dress, Nuno Baltazar // Shoes, LuÌs Onofre RODRIGOBlazer, Decenio // Sweatshirt, Henry Cotton’s // Shirt, Gant // Shorts, Gant // Shoes, Gant by Michael Bastian

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RODRIGO:Blazer, Miguel Vieira // Shirt, Miguel Vieira // Tie, Miguel Vieira // Pants, Gant by Michael Bastian // Shoes, FLy London KATYA:Dress, Miguel Vieira // Shoes, LuÌs Onofre

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_PhotographySimone Lezzi www.framezeroart.com_ModelWaleska @ Ice Milan www.ice-models.com_Mua/hairLoredana Caldarola_StylingFrancesca Bocca

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KOKOTISH, ERKAN CORUH, BALENCIAGA, DRIES VAN NOTEN,

CHRISTIAN LACROIX, LIU JO, VINTAGE FROM ANTONIO LEUCE

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AB A BAND APART_SHOES

STEPHEN VENEZIA_ACCESSORIES

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Beauty Seeker

Photography: Antonio Nascimento

Make up and Hair: Rita Lacerda

Fahion direction: Frederica Santos

Model:Marianne Bitterncourt

@ Karacter

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PhotographyMaria Vasconcelos

ProductionAna Fontinha

Make up and HairElisa Setúbal

ModelDébora Sabbo

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Photographer: Carlos RodriguesStyling: Silvana Querido

Makeup & Hair: Sílvia FerreiraModel: Vanessa Pessanha (Central Models)

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Dress, Nuno Baltazar // Ring “Heat” and Ring “Let’s Tango” Nol Joalheiros

Dress, Nuno Baltazar // Ring “Heat” and Ring “Let’s Tango” Nol Joalheiros

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Dress and Jacket, Decenio // Bracelets, Massimo Dutti // Earrings “Spring Blossom”, Nol Joalheiros

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Dress, Decenio // Fur stole, Stylists Own // Sandals, Luís Onofre // Ring “Fresh Mint”, Nol JoalheirosTHED

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Photography: Conny KirsteStyling: Natalia Witschke @ Nina KleinHair & Make Up: Carina Wittmann & Nathalie Gros @ Basics BerlinModels: Nina @ Izaio & Luise @ Seeds Management

NinaBlack furjacket : Irene Luft / Black furcollar: Irene Luft / Silk Top: streesse blu / Black Jeans : Lee / Black highheels :Thomas kaiser by David tomaszewski / Black Corsage : stylists own

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Photography: Conny KirsteStyling: Natalia Witschke @ Nina KleinHair & Make Up: Carina Wittmann & Nathalie Gros @ Basics BerlinModels: Nina @ Izaio & Luise @ Seeds Management

LuiseBeige fur jacket : strenesse blu / wool Pullover lightgrey: Levis made & wool Pullover beige : David tomaszewski / leather highwaist Short : stylists own / tights with zebraprint : wolford

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NinaBlack leather Dress : Hannes / Black leather Belt worn As scarf : Hannes roetherBlack Shirt with Polka Dolt worn Inside out: wolford / Tights: wolford

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SHEILA DEMONNinaBlack furjacket : Irene Luft / Black furcollar: Irene Luft / Silk Top: streesse blu / Black Jeans : Lee / Black highheels :Thomas kaiser by David tomaszewski / Black Corsage : stylists ownLuiseBeige fur jacket : strenesse blu / wool Pullover lightgrey: Levis made & wool Pullover beige : David tomaszewski / leather highwaist Short : stylists own / tights with zebraprint : wolford

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LouiseBlue wool Cape: David tomaszewski / Blue Shirt with Little dots:Levis Black trousers: Wolford

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NinaBlue Blazer: Levis Made&Crafted / lightgrey wool Dress : David tomaszewski / Black collar:stylists own

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NinaBlue Blazer: Levis Made&Crafted / lightgrey wool Dress : David tomaszewski Black collar:stylists own

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LuiseGrey knitted Dress: David tomaszewski Grey wool Dress with turtleneck:

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NinaGrey knitted oversized bolero : Irene Luft darkgrey 2-Layer wool Shirt: Leedarkgrey Jeans skirt : Leeleather Belt: stylists tights : wolfordhighheels: Peter kaiser by David tomaszewski

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Louise Fur scarf worn as a Cap: friendly furBrown blouse: Lee

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NinaBlack lace Dress : Irene Luft / Black westernshirt: Lee / fur

collar: friendly fur / tights :wolford / Panties : wolford /

shoes: Doc Martens

Valentim Quaresma: Special Collaboration and Art Pieceshttp://www.valentimquaresma.com/

Photography: Pedro Matoshttp://pedromatosimage.blogspot.com/

in collaboration with Frederica SantosAssisted by: Mario Correia

Make up artist: Ana Cabral

Model: Fernando Cabral @ Karacterhttp://www.karacter.pt/

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FROM THE FUTURE,

WITH LOVE.

FROM THE FUTURE, WITH LOVE.

If you have ever wondered how the future will look like, we can now give you a small glimpse. The answer is in the book Future Fashion, Innovative Materials and Technology, by Macarena San Martin (ed. Mao Mao Publications, 2010). And the portuguese jewelry designer Valentim Quaresma is in it, both the book and the future. His collection Work in Progress, combining organic and mechanic, past and future, guaranteed him a reserved seat, alongside names such as Maison Martin Margiela, Sandra Backlund or Jum Nakao. An honor that the portuguese artist says it was “prestigious”. For his own future Valentim wants to keep “focusing on internationalization and, of course, in the exploitation of new materials”. Not being an unknow name, nor in Portugal, and neither in the rest of the word, it seems safe to say that Valentim Quaresma’s future is looking all bright and smiling.

By Lígia Gonçalves

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Photography: Heike HimmelStyling: João Diogo by Fashion Shower

assisted by Sandra RibeiroMake up & Hair: Mafalda Belo

Model: Carlos Ferra by L`Agence Models

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macacão em algodão by Zara

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Camisa branca by Zara // Colete preto by Dior Homme

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calças pretas em linho by H&M

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Blusão preto com tachas by Zara

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casaco dourado de lantejoulas by Zara // Calças cinzentas by Dolce & Gabanna

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Photo: Thierry FeretStyling: João Ribeiro

Model: Asmaa ChahirAll the clothes are from Max & Jan at Espaço B

www.max&jan.maLocation: SOFITEL Agadir

HERE COMES THE SUN

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‘Conflict: Rejection/Attraction’Photography by Daniel Pires

www.danielpires.co.ukMUA: Rose Hellewell

Model: Stina @ MandP Models

INTERVIEW WITH

OLGA NORONHA

Olga NoronhaPhoto By Marta Guimaraes

Reverdin suture needle ear-

NinaBlack lace Dress : Irene Luft / Black westernshirt: Lee / fur

collar: friendly fur / tights :wolford / Panties : wolford /

shoes: Doc Martens

FIRST OF ALL TELL US HOW IT ALL BEGAN, YOUR INTEREST FOR DESIGN, FOR JEWELLERY?

When I get asked the question “How did you end up in the jewellery field?” or even “From where did your passion for jewellery came?” I always start thinking and re-thinking, trying to find a proper answer, and I just get to the conclusion that there isn’t really a lot to say about my past. There is no history of jewellers, or even artists, in my family and, until I “imposed” my will of becoming a jewellery designer, my parents, both doctors, were always trying to get me to go to a certain path, where they thought I would have a guaranteed wealthy future. But I guess everything started with beads when I was around six or seven years old, just like almost all the girls of that age, until the day I was given by a neighbour a very nice hand made wood box, full of compartments and some pliers. After that I started asking my mother to buy me some wires and thus I began manipulating them, along with gems and other materials, therefore creating my first jewellery pieces, which I now call the “PreHistoric” jewels. Some of them were even recently published in the book 1000

WHAT IF SOMEONE COMBINED THE MEDICAL-SURGICAL UNIVERSE WITH JEWELRY? WHAT IF SOMEONE RE-INVENTED THE CONCEPT OF THE BODY ITSELF? WELL, SOMEONE DID IT. OLGA NORONHA, A 21 YEAR OLD PORTUGUESE JEWELRY DESIGNER LIVING IN LONDON, HAS PUT IN THE SAME EQUATION, GOLD, PROSTHESIS, ANTIQUE NEEDLES AND DIAMONDS. THE RESULT? PERFECT HARMONY, AND, IN AN ABSOLUT NEW CONCEPT, THE PROOF THAT AN OLD SAYING IS AFTER ALL TRUE: OPPOSITES DO ATTRACT. HER COLLECTION CONFLICT: REJECTION/ATRACTION, WILL MAKE YOU WANNA PLAY DOCTOR-PATIENT AGAIN. BUT, FOR ONCE, EVERYBODY WILL WANT TO BE THE PATIENT.

By Lígia Gonçalves

Jewelry Inspirations, by Sandra Salamony (ed. Lark Books, USA, 2008). Then in 2001 I began attending a part time jewellery school, at my city Oporto (north of Portugal), named Engenho & Arte. I stood there until 2007 learning most of the traditional and contemporary jewellery techniques. In September 2007 I moved to the UK, firstly attending to the Foundation Course in Art and Design at Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design, moving then to the BA Hons Jewellery Design, at the same college, from where I have recently graduated. Now I’m currently developing my investigation project at Goldsmiths College, in the MRes in Design.When I was 13 years old I had a lower mark in high school, so my mother prohibited

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Hip Replacement walking stick

HOW DID THIS IDEA OF EXPLORING THIS MEDICAL-SURGICAL UNIVERSE CAME UP? AFTER ALL IT’S A BRAND NEW CONCEPT!

Both my parents are orthopedic surgeons and even though I decided to follow an artistic career, I have always been in touch with medical and surgical matters. About one year ago I started properly observing the surgical gadgets and techniques, wondering about how to connect such distinctive subjects.

WHAT IMAGES DID YOU HAD IN YOUR

for achieving the piece in question.

WHAT MOST PASSIONATES YOU IN YOUR WORK?

I think that being able to stand for my ideas. After all It does take a great amount of passion for what you do to properly convince people that your ideas “have feet to go on”.WHO IS OLGA NORONHA? AND HOW CAN WE SEE YOU IN YOUR WORK?

“Who runs for pleasure never gets tired”. My big secret is to never be satisfied with myself, so I always want to be bigger and better.

NOW SPEAKING IN PARTICULAR OF YOUR LATEST COLLECTION CONFLICT: REJECTION/ATRACTION:

me to go to jewellery school for weeks. I suffered so much in that period that I just felt I could not live without it!

WHICH WAS THE VERY FIRST PIECE YOU DESIGNED?

Apart from the “ PreHistoric” pieces, I think it was a very big three fingers ring, in silver, when I was 11 years old.EXPLAIN US HOW DOES YOUR CREATIVE PROCESS WORKS?

With permanent ideas, a small Moleskine and a Muji 0.38mm black ink pen always in my handbag, and with a voice recorder always on my bedside table (for those ideas that wake me up in the middle of the night). Then after deciding the final concept and design, I either jump onto my small workshop and make the piece, or research about the most suitable methods

Elbow restriction piece

surgical box I

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Photos of the series http://www.inesdorey.com/index.php?/projectos/surgery-block--bloco-operatorio/”surgery block/bloco operatório by Inês D’Orey; Images of surgical material : bone screws, syringes, etc.; X-Rays; pictures of silicon implants and body modification subdermal implants; and images of details of both female and male bodies.

TELL US ABOUT THE CONCEPT, THIS DICHOTOMY BETWEEN REJECTION AND ATTRACTION. THE LINK BETWEEN ANATOMY AND JEWELRY IT IS ALSO APPARENTLY ANTAGONISTIC. HOW DO YOU FACE THESE DICHOTOMIES? AND WHAT IT IS THEIR MEANING?

This collection was about picking contrasting subjects and joining them in ways that would not be easy to imagine. It was about assuming the body as an object of re-design.My ongoing conceptual goal is focused on the analysis or physicallity and intellectuallity, and thei manipulation,

by exploring the merger of anatomy and medicine with the creation of “jewel-objects” that are intimately related to the human body. So, in this collection, I used actual surgery tools and turned them into jewelry pieces, moving them from a cientific context to an artistic point of view, but still keeping and reinterpreting its original function, and creating pieces that can be seen as “new-orthosis”, built in actual prosthetic materials, that enhance body parts by expanding, compressing and emphasizing them.As for the idea of the name it came from the Psychiatric Conflict Theory: Attraction/Rejection – where you first feel attracted and then reject it. In the collection Conflict: Rejection/Attraction – you first feel repulsed by surgical tools, those foreign bodies that penetrate your own, but then as they turn then into intricate and delicate art/jewellery pieces, you feel attracted to them.

I KNOW THAT YOU HAVE BEEN SPOKING TO DOCTORS, BIOENGINEERS AND ORTHOPEDIC TECHNICIANS. WHAT ARE YOU PLANNING?

Prosthetic cervical collar

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Reverdin suture needle earring

understand the jewellery piece as not only a mere adornment. There is poetry and different types of moods behind the design methodology. I really want my pieces to be appreciated in a different way from the ones exhibited on a jewellery shop window. I try to explore different positions, and somehow try to enphasise or euphemize extensions of the body. Thus being, the act of wearing any of my pieces, whatever the size or value, it is by itself a new way of thinking and presenting ourselves. The body becomes as if a “showcase” that, instead of static, combines its own movement with the implicit life of an art piece.Mainly I wish people won’t be apathetic towards my work, whatever the reaction – good or bad!

WITH WHAT EXPRESSION WOULD YOU DEFINE YOUR WORK?

Boundary-pushing.

WHO IS, OR HOW IT IS, THE PERSON TO

For example, the ortho-prosthetic pieces from this last collection were design by me, but, as I actually wanted them to be made of original materials, I went on looking for a prosthetic lab with which I could collaborate. As soon as I found what I wanted, I wrote a formal proposal asking for their availability to intensively work with me for one month and that was exactly what happened. It was an incredibly enriching experience. So for my next project and investigation I want to merge scientific areas with my jewellery concepts, and defy what already exists. You might soon understand what I am talking about!

SO CAN WE ASSUME THAT YOU ARE ALREADY WORKING IN A NEW COLLECTION? WHAT CAN YOU TELL US ABOUT IT?

Meanwhile I am going to keep on developing this collection, and turning it into an investigation project that will join bio-engineering and surgical science, in order to continue to explore the boundaries of the body and its capacity of being “Re-Designed”.

YOUR WORK IS VERY CONCEPTUAL. SO HOW DO YOU SEE THE MARKETING OF YOUR WORK? AND HOW DO YOU WANT TO COMBINE THIS TWO SIDES?

Behind all my art pieces there is an idea. It’s a type of jewellery where the aesthetics is far from being the most important. I wish to contribute for that people can start to

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WHOM YOU DESIGN?

I do not make my pieces to reach a particular type of person. I do create them expecting people to understand the relationship they are establishing with what they are wearing, that they would feel the pieces, as if they were more than mere objects you place on you body to simply adorn it.

BUT IS IT THERE ANYONE IN PARTICULAR THAT YOU WOULD LIKE TO SEE WEARING YOUR PIECES?

I think I would be very pleased to see Daphne Guinness wearing any of my pieces.WHO DO YOU ADMIRE?

I wouldn’t say I have a favourite designer. I do prefer saying that I like various designers for their peculiar and individual details, either in their conceptual approach, or by their design/craft path. But If I have to choose someone now, I would definetly go with Naomi Filmer, Gerd Rothman, Alexander McQueen, Hussein Chalayan and Gareth Pugh.

AND WITH WHICH DESIGNERS WOULD YOU LIKE TO COLLABORATE?

Until now I have already worked for Diane Von Fusterberg (S/S 2010) and with Fleet Ilya London.I would have loved to work with Alexander Mcqueen, and in the future I would love to work with Nick Knight and Gareth Pugh.AND WHAT ABOUT EXHIBITIONS? YOU HAD PLENTY ALREADY. ARE YOU PLANNING ANY SOON?

Not for now, apart from the Mres in Design final exhibition in London. I will however collaborate with SayMyName at Lisbon Fashion Week, this March. Watch out for it! THIS QUESTION WAS INEVITABLE: DO YOU

HAVE ANY MUST-HAVE ACCESSORY ?

I do, a very simple silver ring made of two jump rings joint together. It means the close relationship I had with a person in my familly that recently passed away.

WHAT ARE YOUR PLANS FOR THE FUTURE?

Meanwhile I’m going to keep on developing my investigation project, now in the MRES in Design at Goldsmiths College. Then I want to develop it to a higher stage in a PHD, and keep on collaborating with other designers and photographers.In a near future, I wish to go through different experiences: I want to keep beeing a design researcher, developing pieces for art galleries, collaborating with fashion designers and fashion editorials, and also teach for a while.

A WISH FOR 2012?

Being able to achieve all my dreams! And there are a lot of them.

Visit in: http://www.olganoronha.com

Keep updated in:https://www.facebook.com/pages/Olga-Noronha-Jewellery/250266515000392?sk=wall

Buy Through:[email protected]

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Photography // Pedro MatosStyling // Frederica SantosClothing // Patricia Pinto

Model Miss República portuguesa Mundo 2011Barbara Franco

Driver // Filipa SantosAssistant // Filipa LopesAgradecimento // Isidro Brito De Brito

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Photo: Mohcine Ait Fares Art Director: Joao RibeiroModel: MIMIPRE FALL 2012 MAX&JAN

Midnight in the garden of shadows

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55 DSLhttp://55dsl.com/

AB a Band Apart ShoesAdidashttp://www.adidas.com/

Aleksandar Protic

Alexandra Moura

Alves Gonçalveshttp://www.alvesgoncalves.com/conteudo.htm

Ana Salazarhttp://www.anasalazar.pt/

Balenciagahttp://www.balenciaga.eu/en_GB/

Christian Lacroixhttp://www.christian-lacroix.fr

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Deceniohttps://decenio.com/webapp/

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Dr. Martenshttp://www.drmartens.com/

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Erkan Coruhhttp://www.erkancoruh.com/x/Home.html

Espaço Bhttp://www.espaco-b.com/

Fernanda Pereirahttp://www.fernandapereira.net/

Filipe Faíscahttp://filipefaisca.com/

Fly Londonhttp://www.flylondon.com/

Friendly Furhttp://www.friendlyfur.de/

Gant http://us.gant.com/

Hannes Roetherhttp://www.hannesroetherinternational.de/

Henry Cotton’shttp://www.henrycottons.it/

Irene Lufthttp://www.ireneluft.com/

Katty Xiomarahttp://www.kattyxiomara.com/

Kokotishhttp://www.kokotish.com

Lacostehttp://www.lacoste.com/

Leehttp://www.lee.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/CountrySelector?storeId=10151

Levishttp://eu.levi.com/en_PT/index.html

Levis Made & Craftedhttp://www.levismadeandcrafted.com/

Lidija Kolovrathttp://www.lidijakolovrat.org/

Liu Johttp://www.liujo.it/

Luís Buchinhohttp://www.luisbuchinho.pt/

Luís Onofrehttp://www.luisonofre.com/

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Leehttp://www.lee.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/CountrySelector?storeId=10151

Levishttp://eu.levi.com/en_PT/index.html

Levis Made & Craftedhttp://www.levismadeandcrafted.com/

Lidija Kolovrathttp://www.lidijakolovrat.org/

Liu Johttp://www.liujo.it/

Luís Buchinhohttp://www.luisbuchinho.pt/

Luís Onofrehttp://www.luisonofre.com/

Maria Gambina

Marques Almeidahttp://marquesalmeida.com/

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Miguel Vierahttp://www.miguelvieira.pt/

Nol Joalheiroshttp://www.noljoalheiros.com/

Nuno Baltazarhttp://www.nunobaltazar.com/

Nuno Gamahttp://www.nunogama.pt/

Os Burgueseshttp://www.osburgueses.com/

Olga Noronhahttp://liveontape.m4pt.com/OLGA%20NORONHA/index.htm

Patricia Pintohttp://patriciapinto.com/index.php

Pedro Pedrohttp://pedroxpedro.blogspot.com/

Peter Kaiser By David Tomaszewskihttp://www.peter-kaiser.de/

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Stephen Venezia Accessorieshttp://www.stephen.it/

Strenesse Bluehttp://www.strenesse.com/en/Strenesse-Blue/

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Vintage From Antonio LeuceVitor http://www.vitor.com.pt

White Tenthttp://www.white-tent.com/

Wolfordhttp://www.wolford.com/

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