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THE WONDERS OF GREECE 2014 MAY 24-25, 2014

Tourism in Greece2 THE NATIONAL HERALD, MAY 24, 2014

Another Side of Athens

By Anthe Mitrakos

Tourists and Athenian locals who seek to visit a less-crowded area near the Acropolis can pass throughthe picturesque Plateia Avissinias situated just

beyond the busy Monastiraki metro stop heading southalong Ermou Street. The square has historically been amixing ground for residents of various ethnic andreligious backgrounds, including Muslim and Jewishminorities, primarily because it served as a merchanttrade center.

Today, the area is known for its collection of smallshops called “palaiopoleia,” which sell vintage furniture,decorative items, clothing, jewelry, paintings, books, andother items from the past. Visitors can peruse the vastantique collections and enjoy an alternative shoppingexperience. On Sundays, the square hosts a bazar in theopen space outside the vintage shops where localmerchants bring a greater variety of items for sale.

Visitors who want something more than a casual walkthrough the area can also catch an evening sunset view ofthe Acropolis from the rooftop of Loukoumi Vintage Bar,

located in the center of the square. This cafe also doubles asa palaiopoleio itself, where customers can purchase thedisplayed jewelry, decorations, artwork, and even the tablesand chairs, for a discount. Music lovers gather at Loukoumito enjoy live performances with specialty coffee cocktails.At the corner of the square is Café Avissinia, anothermeeting point ideal for dinner and wine. This restaurantoffers a welcoming dining experience with home-stylerecipes in a setting that reflects the antiquated feel of thesquare. Next time you find yourself in Monastiraki, take aturn south and you will discover another side of Athens.

By Anthe Mitrakos

Located on the Southwestern part of Mount Parnassos in Central Greece isthe ancient city of Delphi, famous for its oracle and the Temple of Apollo,among other features. In ancient times, the site was a major area of worship forApollo, the god of the sun and music. In Greek mythology, it is said that Apolloslew Python, a dragon dwelling at the center of the earth, located at Delphi.Hence, Delphi has been named the “omphalos tis gis,” or the “navel of theearth,” as it was considered by the ancients.Inside the Delphic temple was the seat of Pythia, priestess at the Temple of

Apollo and the most famous oracle in Ancient Greek history. Inscribed in theTemple are several statements including the famous “gnothi seauton,” or “knowthyself.” Aside from the Temple, Delphi’s ancient site includes a theater,gymnasium, the Athena Pronoia Sanctuary, a restored Athenian treasury, andthe Tholos, a circular building with three restored Doric columns. Among othersights, the Tholos is the most popular monument on Delphi’s grounds.In addition to hosting the most celebrated oracle in ancient times, Delphi was

also a major center for athletics. Athletes from around Greece would gather atDelphi every four years to compete in the Pythian Games, one of four PanHellenicgames which included the Nemean, Isthmian, and the most popular of all time,Olympic games.After having been raided by Romans, what was left of the site, including

temples, statues, and art, were later destroyed by Christians in an attempt tooverride ancient Greek practice. Delphi then became the site of Kastri, a villagethat was destroyed in an earthquake and then relocated, making way forexcavations that lead to the discovery of the ancient grounds and variousartifacts. Today, the remains of Delphi are one of Greece’s more popular touristattractions.

Delphi:The Earth’s Navel

Exploring OlympiaIn the Western Peloponnese, in the "Valley of Gods", lies the

most celebrated sanctuary of ancient Greece, and the birthplaceof the most important athletic mega-event of all times; theOlympic Games. Olympia is one of the most well known touristdestinations in Greece, and one of the most powerful brandnames worldwide.

Olympia is easily accessible from other areas of interest ofGreece. It is less than 4 hours away from Athens and only 1 hourfrom Patras port, or Kalamata Airport. There are numerous dailybuses and trains that connect Athens to Olympia. Another optionfor getting to Olympia from Athens is to take one of the manysightseeing tours available out of Athens.

Experience living history through the priceless, but mainly freeof charge offerings of the area.

The visitor can walk through the impressive ruins of the areawhere athletes trained and ran in the ancient stadium; just as theancient Olympians did after their victory 3000 years ago. Theycan also visit the museum and get the chance to see someunbelievable sculptures such as the sculpted decoration of thetemple of Zeus, one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World,the famous Hermis of Praxiteles and the statue of Nike ofPaionios.

Visitors can also enjoy festivals such as the Ancient OlympiaInternational Festival and the Alfios River Eco-festival, wherethey can explore the magnificent natural environment of theAlfios River, Kato Samiko’s unspoiled beach that is only 18kmaway, or enjoy the natural Kaiafas Thermal Spa. They can alsohave the option of taking part in activities such as walking alongthe promenade, and sports such as biking, rafting, kayak, kite-surf, etc.

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Tourism in GreeceTHE NATIONAL HERALD, MAY 24, 2014 3

Thessaloniki (520 km. northof Athens) is Greece’s second-largest city. Built near the sea(at the back of the ThermaïkosGulf), it is a modern metropolisbearing the marks of its stormyhistory and its cosmopolitancharacter, which give it a specialbeauty and charm.

Take a tour in the center ofThessaloniki and plan to visit itsnearby destinations. Also, whilebeing in Thessaloniki it is worthgoing up to Halkidiki.

VISIT THESSALONIKI'SARCHAEOLOGICAL SITES

• The ancient forum (datedto the late 2nd or the early 3rdcentury AD) with squares, por-ticos, additional buildings andodeum (293-395 AD), thepalace complex of Galerius Max-imianus (4th c. AD), the ther-mae, the hippodrome, the tem-ples and other monuments andmoveable finds (among themmosaics of exquisite art)brought to light in excavationsand surveys. In the SouthSquare is the famous Stoa of theIdols, which was two-storied

and lavishly decorated.• The Triumphal Arch of Ga-

lerius (Kamara), built in AD 305to commemorate his militarysuccesses in general in the east-ern provinces of the Roman Em-pire. • The Rotunda is an early

4th century building which laterwas converted into a Christianchurch.

VISIT THESSALONIKI'SBYZANTINE MONUMENTS

Thessaloniki, with its host ofByzantine monuments (due toits significance during theByzantine period), justifiably isconsidered an open-air museumof Byzantine art.

Wandering through the city,it is worthwhile to see:• The churches of

Acheiropoietos (5th century) athree-aisled, timber-roofedbasilica, the Holy Wisdom ofGod (Hagia Sophia) (7th cen-tury), the Panaghia (Virgin)Chalkeon (1028), Hosios David(12th century), St. Panteleimon(late 13th or the early 14th cen-tury), is of four-columned cross-

in-square type, Agioi Apostoloi(1310-1314),Taxiarches (14thcentury), Panagouda a three-aisled basilica with significanticons, Agios Ioannis Prodromos( N ym p h a i o n ) , V l a t a d o nmonastery a 14th century foun-dation of which only the katho-likon and two cisterns withinthe precinct survive, AgiosDemetrios, a splendid basilicadedicated to the patron saintand protector of the city, etc. • The Byzantine walls of the

city.• The archaeological site in

3 Septemvriou St., with rem-nants of a cemetery basilica, amartyrion and Early Christiangraves.• The Byzantine bathhouse

(late thirteenth century).• The Heptapyrgion Castle

was raised in stages, from theearly years of the Byzantine Ageinto the Ottoman period.

AMAZING OTTOMANMONUMENTS

• The White Tower (15thcentury), the hallmark of thecity.• The Mosques of the Hamza

Bey Cami (15th century), theAladja Imaret Cami (1484) andthe Yeni Cami (1902).• Hamams (Turkish bath-

houses): The Pazar Hamam(15th century), the PashaHamam (15th century), BeyHamam (16th century), YeniHamam and the YahudiHamam.• Bezesteni, a rectangular

building with lead-covereddomes and four entrances wasbuilt in the late fifteenth centuryand operated as a cloth market.

DISCOVERNEIGHBORHOODS AND

FOCAL POINTS IN THE CITY

• The Old City (Ano Polis),in which many notable exam-ples of Ottoman and traditionalMacedonian architecture stillstand, alongside humbledwellings put up by the refugeeswho reached Thessaloniki indroves, after the Greek defeatin Asia Minor, in 1922.• The historical quarter of

the Ladadika. In recent years, aseries of interventions to reha-bilitate the urban fabric havehelped to enhance the Ladadika

as a quarter for leisure pursuits.• The traditional markets:

the Modiano, which is housedin a rectangular building of1922, with pedimented facadeand glass roof; the Kapani orVlalis market; Athonos Squareand the Louloudadika (flowermarkets).• Vasilissis Olgas Avenue,

lined with many representativeNeoclassical buildings and ex-amples of late 19th centuryeclectic architecture.• The central Aristotelous

Square, surrounded by monu-mental buildings and open tothe waterfront for a width of100 meters.

OTHER MONUMENTS ANDBUILDINGS IN THE CITY:• Mylos (literally mill). An

old industrial complex, built in1924, today has been remod-eled to house cultural eventsand leisure activities, as well asthe industrial buildings of theold FIX Brewery and the VILKAplant.• Lazarist monastery (1886)

by the monastic order of theBrothers of Mercy, and nowused for cultural events.

• Royal Theatre • Thessaloniki Concert Hall.

A newly-built, magnificent yetaustere, multipurpose venue forcultural and other events.• YMCA Building, built in

1924, with a mixture of Neo-colonial and Byzantinesque ar-chitectural elements.

MUSEUMS

It is worth seeing the Archae-ological Museum, the Museumof Byzantine Culture, the Folkand Ethnographic Museum, theState Museum of ContemporaryArt, the Teloglion Foundation ofArt, the Thessaloniki CinemaMuseum, the Thessaloniki Sci-ence Center and TechnologyMuseum, and more.

FESTIVITIES

During each year, Thessa-loniki hosts significant culturaland commercial festivities, suchas the Thessaloniki InternationalFair (every September), the In-ternational Thessaloniki FilmFestival (every November) andthe International Book Fair(every May).

Thessaloniki: Don’t Forget Greece’s Other Big City

Tourism in Greece4 THE NATIONAL HERALD, MAY 24, 2014

By Anthe Mitrakos

The beautiful nature, historic streets, andmedieval castle of Ioannina make this city amagical place to visit in Northwestern Greece.Reminiscent of a bygone era, Ioannina is a placerich in history, local tradition and culture,including Christian, Jewish and Islamicinfluence. The essence of Ali Pasha and his lovefor the beautiful and intelligent Kyra Frosini, hisnotorious mistress, resonate in his home, whichis now a museum open to visitors. Amongvarious unique attractions and sites to visit atthis picturesque destination are the ancienttheater of Dodona, the city’s medieval fortress,the Ethnographic Museum of Ioannina, the Veli

Pasha Mosque, House of Matei Hussein, andLake Pamvotida.

Because of its proximity to Lake Pamvotida,local cuisine includes fresh-water delicacies suchas trout, eels, and frogs. Traditional Ioanninasweets known throughout Greece include theSker Bourek, a sugar pie, the Klostari, a cylindershaped filo pastry with walnuts and syrup.Ioannina also produces an alcohol-free liqueurbased on a mixture of nectar, fruit syrups, andherbs.

Founded in the 6th century by the ByzantineEmperor Justinian, Ioannina, also known asGiannena, is the largest city in Epirus.

A major center of the Modern GreekEnlightenment with a bustling community ofwealthy Byzantine families who had fledConstantinople, Ioannina eventuallysurrendered to the Ottoman Empire in 1430,and the city remained under the rule of the localPasha until 1868, eventually joining Greece in1913.

By Anthe Mitrakos

The natural landscape of Meteora is simply out of this world. A complex ofgiant rocks climbing to the skies from a luscious green valley below, theMeteora region is one breathtaking sight, and truly one of the most

spiritual and awe-inspiring places in the world. In fact, the word “meteora”means “suspended in air.”

Located in the prefecture of Trikala in Thessaly, Meteora was once home tosome 30 monasteries dating back to the 14th and 15th centuries, of which mostare now deserted. Keeping true to old religious traditions, the few monasteriesstill in operation attract thousands of visitors annually. They are MegaloMeteoro, Agios Stefanos, Varlaam, Agia Triada, Roussanou, and Agios NikolaosPanausas.

Rising over 400 meters above the Peneas valley and the town of Kalambaka,the Meteora rock pinnacles on which these monasteries were painstakingly built

exhibit a mystic atmosphere that makes it no wonder hermit monks chose thislocation to be nearer to God. A striking example of architecture so wellembedded in its natural surroundings, the Meteora serve as a reclusive place forprayer and spiritual meditation. The rock formations themselves are said tohave emerged as a result of earthquakes and date back to the Tertiary period, or60 million years ago.

Aside from visiting the monasteries and getting a glimpse of the traditionsand rich history kept intact within the walls, the Meteora region offers thechance for a variety of adventurous activities including biking, trekking, rockclimbing, horseback riding, rafting, guided tours, and other great outdooractivities. For those interested in culinary experiences, the Meteora boast avariety of local food products including handmade sausages, cheese, and pies.

With a historical heritage that dates back to prehistoric times, some notablesites worth exploring in the area include the Byzantine Church of Virgin Mary,the prehistoric cave of Theopetra, and the old habitation of Kastraki village. Thenearby towns of Kalabaka and Kastraki feature visitor amenities and hotelswhich can host you while on your visit. To get there, you can drive of course,hop on a train from Athens (Larissa Station) to Kalabaka (about a 5-hour ride),choose from various bus routes, or go by plane to Volos Airport (then it’s abouta 2.5-hour drive to Kalabaka).

Because of the well-kept traditions, Meteora is a humbling place to visitespecially during the Holy Week of Easter. Discover the hidden treasures ofnature and unlock the mysteries of this historically significant and remarkablecollection of monasteries with a visit to Meteora, which have been inscribed as aUNESCO World Heritage Site since 1988.

Magical and Mystical Meteora Is Simply out of this World

Ioannina: Resplendent in Beauty and Culture

Βy Constantinos E. Scaros

Different strokes – or Greek islands – fordifferent folks. Many vacationers prefer atranquil, sparsely-populated locale to “get awayfrom it all.” Others, however, think they wantthat – but really miss the commotion ofeveryday city life. The action, the beeping horns,the narrow streets – clearly not designed for cars– struggling to accommodate both vehicle andpedestrian.

For those Type A personalities who want tospice up their relaxation with just the rightamount of angst, Kos is the place.

Like all the Greek islands – the skies are blue,the beaches are wonderful, and there are plentyof secluded pockets. But in many respects, Kos isa “mini-Rhodes,” much like New Jersey is a“mini-New York.” But, just as New Jersey is themost densely-populated state, Kos is the mostdensely-populated Dodecanese island, if not ofall Greek islands overall. It is, for example,about a fifth the size of Rhodes – which is alsoquite densely populated – but its population isgreater than a fifth of Rhodes’.

A stone’s throw (especially if you’re Poseidontrying to fend off Polybotes) from Kos andRhodes are some of those quiet islands,exquisite dots that adorn the pristine blueAegean Sea. Nisyros, Symi, Tilos, Chalki…So,perhaps the best way to really understand Kos isto experience the frenzied Rhodes-to-Nisyros viaKos excursion.

WOW – WHAT WAS THAT?A few years ago, with wife, baby, and infant

in tow, we left Rhodes en route to Nisyros – butthere were no direct boats that day. (Nisyrosdoesn’t have a field wide enough on which toland a plane, so there’s no airport). Particularlybecause we were traveling with an infant, wesought the easiest way to get there – which isusually directly by catamaran – though therewere no direct ones that day, either.

The next-best solution was to take acatamaran from Rhodes to Kos, and then aSouth-veering cab ride from Kos Town to theport of Kardamena, where a ferry ride to Nisyroswould be a quick, soothing 45 minute voyage.

The main difference between Rhodes’ andKos’ energy is that Rhodes is big enough tohouse all of the commotion with more room to

spare. Arriving to Rhodes’ port to board thecatamaran was easy, and the high-speed sail,just under two hours was, literally andfiguratively, a breeze.

Once we got to Kos, the port was filled withgaggles of tourists, frenetic dock workers, andcab drivers scurrying to claim the next fare. Ourcabbie drove us through streets packed withcoffee shops, clothing stores, business offices –you name it, all densely crammed together.

KARDAMENA HANGOVERKardamena in the early morning hours –

when the ferries leave for Nisyros – looks like asleepy little town. Quite the opposite of its“Party Central” mode, with dance clubs andother hot spots geared toward youth – thatdoesn’t stop until the sun comes up.

Gazing at the deserted morning streets andthe unlit neon signs of the numerous nightclubs,one can only imagine that Kardamena’s late-night crowd is nowhere close to waking up –and probably will rise many hours later, to beginanother 15-hour stint of fun – perhaps from2PM to 5AM.

We boarded the Nisyros-bound Ferry, and gotto relax for the first time that day, as we enjoyedthe sun-soaked sky and watched the smallAegean waves foam and bubble as the Ferryswooshed them out of its way.

I knew then and there, relaxation – andplenty of it – was what I’d find on Nisyros (savefor the August 12-15 Panagias crowd – that’show it always is on Nisyros – quiet). Part of melooked forward to that – another part wonderedwhether I could have used a larger dose of Kos’commotion.

There is Never a Dull Moment onThe Island of Kos

By Constantinos E. Scaros

“There’s no place like home” is a phrase usedby Greeks, Americans, and people of various othercountries throughout the world. It speaks to abond with one’s native land.

Greeks of Greece and the Diaspora have theirfavorite “homes,” too – their own little corner ofGreece they boast is “the best!”

If we were to look at matters objectively, wemight ask ourselves: “with so many great placesto visit in Greece, why would someone choose(insert place here)?”

So, of hundreds of islands and villages at atraveler’s disposal – why Nisyros?

For one thing, its diminutive size and popula-tion makes it quaint and charming. The islandhas one ATM machine, and no traffic lights. Thewater is visible from almost every spot, and thesparkling white roads and houses make the islandlook so clean, crisp, and beautiful as it is sur-rounded by beautiful blue Aegean Sea.

For those who love the earth’s natural andrugged beauty, there are the majestic volcano andthe therapeutic mineral baths.

But if there is one experience that makes theNisyrian experience unforgettable, it is the moon.“The Nisyrian moon,” that is, which seems amoon so close to the island, that it is actuallypart of it. As if the earth has two moons: one forNisyros, and another for the rest of the planet.

On a summer night in the capital village ofMandraki, while sitting at an outdoorrestaurant/bar as the sea’s waves gently splashalong the shoreline rocks a few steps below, onecan gaze up at the Panagia Spiliani, a 600+ year-old church built inside cave high above groundlevel, illuminated and gleaming, as the moon –depending on its positioning – peers just above it,

as if it is being supported by the church’s bell tower.

It is a sight to behold – so fantastic that itlooks as if it were a painting rather than a sceneright before one’s very eyes.

Getting to this “land that time forgot” is a loteasier than one would think, considering thatthere is no airport – there isn’t a field wideenough, long enough, or flat enough on the wholeisland that can accommodate a plane landing.

Instead, travelers usually take a ferry over fromnearby Kos (45 minutes), or a large ship (3 hours)or catamaran (2 hours) from Rhodes.

Naturally, from pristine secluded beaches torustic mom-and-pop tavernas, there is a lot moreto do on Nisyros than moongaze.

Nonetheless, you might want to plan your tripto coincide with the next “moon over Spiliani.”

Tourism in GreeceTHE NATIONAL HERALD, MAY 24, 2014 5

By Constantinos E. Scaros

In most parts of the world, including much ofthe United States, one can opt for 1) lush greenlandscape; or 2) predominantly warm, dry, andsunny days – but not both in the same place. Buton the Greek island of Skiathos, you can trulyhave the best of both worlds.

Having grown up in New York City, summertrips upstate, to the Catskill Mountains, gave mea fill of green – true thick, lush, greenlandscape. But hardly any great beaches tospeak of, and not enough sunny days, free ofplans ruined by the rain.

Other summer trips, to Greece, brought meto plenty of great beaches, and without a cloudin the sky, let alone even a drop of rain fallingfrom it. Nonetheless, I remember politelynodding when my relatives would point to thelandscape and exclaim: “ti wraia prasinada –what beautiful greenery.”

Don’t get me wrong – I love Greece, havealways loved vacationing there, and wouldn’ttrade the glorious blue water and blue sky foranything. But while there are many flatteringwords I would use to describe Greece, “green” iscertainly not one of them!

So as not to offend, I would keep mycomments to myself, or share them exclusivelywith my friends and family who live in theUnited States. “This is NOT ‘prasinada,’ it’s notlush green, it’s stone-washed denim green,rocks, and hay.” Does it have a rugged beauty toit – like, say, the Arizona desert? Sure. But it’snot a green beauty.

And then, it happened: the summer of 2005,when I found myself with enough time to takean extended Greek vacation. I bought a travelguide to the Greek islands, just so I couldexplore new ones, flipped it open, and could notbelieve my eyes: it was an incredible photographof the beautiful blue Greek sea that I have cometo know and love, yet it was surrounded by real,lush greenery – the Catskills kind, not the Greekkind.

“Wow! Great beaches AND lush greenery!The ‘surf and turf’ of vacation spots!” I thoughtto myself. “I don’t know where this place is, butI’m going,” I decided. And I did. Oh, the name of

that place? Skiathos.

It is an island in the Northern Sporades – justa half hour flight from Athens. After havingspent a few days in the sweltering Athens heatupon my arrival to Greece that year, I took a lateevening flight to Skiathos and immediately got

my second wind upon feeling the Skiathianisland breeze.

I checked into my room at the SkiathosPalace situated atop the magnificentKoukounaries Beach – but don’t let the namefool you: though pricey compared to the “Roomsto Let” options, the cost is hardly bank-breaking.

Too excited to sleep, I took a walk along thebeach, captivated by the sweet aroma of mycombined surroundings: a pine tree forest alongthe Aegean Sea.

Skiathos turned out to be everything I couldhave hoped for, and more. The food wasexcellent and reasonably priced. The beacheswere what you might expect in Greece:outstanding. And what impressed me a greatdeal was the “Skiathites” – the Skiathos locals –who overall are a very friendly and polite bunch.

I was only there for a few days and didn’trent a car. I could have made an entire vacationof it at the Palace, but decided to explore therest of the island. Transportation (buses andtaxis) was plentiful, and getting around theisland was quite easy.

One place I didn’t get to go was Lalaria. Aspectacular beach (from what I’ve seen inphotos and heard from people who have been)accessible by boat. I had planned that trip formy last full day on the island, but it wasunusually windy that day and the boats werenot sailing there.

The bright side of that, of course, is – now I’llhave to go back! Hopefully, someday soon.

There are Green Greek Islands, and then There’s Skiathos

Incomparable Nisyrian Moon

If you think you’ve discovered a hidden treasure in Skiathos (seearticle below), the nearby island of Skopelos offers the samewondrous waters and lush greenery, in even quieter surroundings

for those who want a complete respite from the hustle and bustle.And while you’re there, indulge in a few jars of Skopelos’ incred-ible honey – and bring some home for souvenirs.

Skiathos’ Little-known Little Version

Sivota: Greece’s other Luxury LandThere’s a reason tourists flock to Crete, Mykonos, Rhodes, San-torini, and a handful of other high-profile destination spots yearafter year – because they live up to their reputation. But if youwant to be a little different without compromising a bit on a lux-urious vacation in a gorgeous setting, go west, young man (orwoman)! Sivota, on the Ionian Island of Lefkada, is your answer.

Waterfalls are FoundIn Greece, too

For those of you whothink you have to travelto Canada or YosemitePark to get your fill (orfall?) of cascadingwater, or even further toBrazil or India, fret not –as Edessa in NorthernGreece is an ideal localefor waterfallenthusiasts. Beautyaside, an added bonus isthat even in the middleof summer, the mistyfalls and surroundingplantlife keeptemperaturesdelightfullycomfortable.

Tourism in Greece6 THE NATIONAL HERALD, MAY 24, 2014

By Marguerite Gallorini

“For me, Lefkada is thegreatest place on Earth. It hasthe sea, the sun, mountainsand snow, and all very close,”tells me my renter. Indeed theWestern Greek Ionian islandhas something for everyone.

Lefkada is a concentrationof diverse heavenly landscapesand peaceful spots, beautifulhiking trails, and littlepicturesque villages where youwill easily be in touch with thelocal population. The Northerncapital offers visits of its castle,museums and, just a few milesaway, the ancient and first cityof the island, Nirikos. But forthose less prone to history,spots along the port offeramazing views of the mountainjust across the bridge, and littlebeaches are reachable nearby.

The island abounds withmonasteries: hikes into theisland's luxurious forest and upto the mountain village ofKaria; beautiful sceneriesmixing mountainscapes andseascapes all along the Westerncoast; the impressive cape ofLefkada “Cape White,” Southof Vasiliki, where the femalepoet Sappho allegedly leapt toher death to escape her ownlove for Phaon...

Like many other Greekislands, Lefkada has beenoccupied many times:Mycenaeans, Corinthians,Romans, Venetians, Ottomans,British...something still felt inthe island's plural architecture.It is notably during theoccupation of the Corinthiansthat a bridge was built to linkthe island to continentalGreece, which today has beenreplaced by a floating bridge,making it therefore very easyto come by bus or by car to thispiece of paradise.

Arriving in the capital,Lefkas, I sink in a bit of historyby visiting the beautiful ruinsof its Venetian castle, HolyBlack, just across the bridge.Enclosed within fortifications,it spreads on green grass withwhite-grey rocks making up amaze of demolished walls,stairs leading nowhere, almostundamaged battlements andseries of open windows with astunning sight on themountains, and on theturquoise sea and thin white-sanded beaches.

There on a corner of whatused to be the big centralroom, I notice the little Churchof Agias Mavras, that gave itsname to the castle byextension, and which was

constructed in the Middle Agesby John Orsini, Count ofKefalonia. Inside, the dimgolden pictures and humblewooden furniture agree withthe simple beauty of the oldforgotten rocks outside inbroad daylight. I am evenfinding myself the only visitorthere, adding to anirrepressible serene feeling ofbeing alone in the world,swallowed up by the charm ofthe island's nature and thepeacefulness of thesecenturies-old walls.

But the city center is alsoworth the walk, with its mazeof sunbathed pedestrianstreets, made up of typicalSouthern bright and warmcolors and where you will meeta friendly wandering cat everyten minutes. Most of all, onecan only feel the attractivegeneral atmosphere of atranquil life going on, on abackground of televisionsheard from within the homesmixed with the sound andsmell of delicious spicedMediterranean dishes being

cooked.

Then I go only a dozenmiles away to Kalamitsi, atypical Greek village on top ofa hill with pretty littlecobblestoned streets, tavernaswhere you can meet theresidents and enjoy traditionalcoffee shops and small grocerystores. My renter there kindlyproposes to pick me up inLefkas, and the car ride itself isworthwhile, passing bymagnificent seascapes from theheight of bushy hills, the sun

glittering lightly on the clearwater below. Arriving at thehouse on the very top of thevillage, he presents me to hisgrandmother who lives justunderneath my room, a sweetGreek yiayia, dressed all inblack, who does not speak oneword of English.

Hiking down and up the hillis a real treat: scented pines,olive trees, fields with theoccasional grazing donkey, aview of the never-ending seajust below...Down the hill alittle white chapel stands onthe side of the road among theolive trees' invading branches,facing the sea. Kalamitsi beachis definitely worth the trip. Ihave never seen a shade ofblue so bright, even in adcampaigns.

At my return, thegrandmother greets mewarmly; we exchange a fewwords and, visibly happy tohave some company, she givesme four eggs from her ownhens and a bottle of divinehomemade olive oil that smellsso good I would want to drinkit all up at once. Back in myroom, enjoying the last nighton the island, I let thepeacefulness of the place fillme before going back to workon the morrow.

Crystal clear waters, a breathtaking natural environment, and anexciting nightlife are what make Zakynthos one of Greece’s mostpopular island getaways. Also known as Zante, Zakynthos is home to anumber of beautiful coves and caves, which serve as a habitat of theGreek sea turtle Carreta.

On the West coast of Zakynthos, tucked away in a cove known asNavagio Bay, are the remains of the Panagiotis. Legend has it that thePanagiotis was a smuggling ship carrying cigarettes, wrecked in theprocess of avoiding local authorities in the early 1980s. Because of itsseemingly perfect placement in the cove, a truly picturesque scene,some believe the ship was set there purposely as a tourist attraction.

Nevertheless, the ship and beach are a precious sight to see, and aneven greater experience up close. Steep cliffs surround this secludedarea, while bright white pebbles below enhance the wonderfullyturquoise waters that add that extra special touch to a great visit. Whatmakes the bay even more distinctive is the fact that it is accessible onlyby water, oftentimes visited by tourist ferryboats and private yachts. Aviewing platform above the cove makes for great memorablephotographs, and a breathtaking view of the Panagiotis and NavagioBay.

The shipwreck is a piece of art in itself, as visitors over the years haveleft their initials, messages, and marks etched in its rusty walls. Asidefrom swimming in breathtaking waters, exploring the wreckage of the

boat is yet another one-of-a-kind experience this uniquelocation offers lucky visitors.Some of the most avidtourists, especially Italians,love to climb onto the ghostship, at their own risk ofcourse.

In summertime, the coveand shipwreck attractthousands of tourists. Toavoid large crowds duringpeak season, it is best tovisit early in the morning orlater in the evening. Thebeach is bereft ofrestaurants or cafes, so it issuggested you visit fullyequipped with anything youmay need, and plan ontaking it back with you, asthere is also no garbage canaround! Various ferryboattours leading to theshipwreck also include visitsto nearby and equallystunning areas known asthe Blue Caves.

Zakynthos: An Ionian Gem

Amazing Lefkada

Myrtos Beach On KefaloniaMyrtos beach on theisland of Kefaloniareceives awardsevery year andfeatures in travelguides the worldover. It is consideredone of the mostbeautiful beaches onearth. Just 30kilometres fromArgostoli, the beautyof the landscape,pure white pebblesand heavenly watersare breathtaking.

Corfu: a GreekIsland with anItalian FlavorWith the passage of time the islandmay have changed, but we can stillfeel the spirit of a distant gloriouspast. Its rich multicultural heritage,its historic monuments, its stunningnatural landscape, its crystal clearseas, and its excellent weather all yearround explain why Corfu is one of themost cosmopolitan Mediterraneandestinations weaving a powerful spellon its visitors.

Corfu (Kérkyra), unlike the rest ofGreece, never fell under the Ottomanoppression. Due to the successivedominations of the Venetians, theFrench and the British over the cen-turies, the island has primarily be-come part of the Western rather theLevantine world. Their culturewielded strong influence in the city:it was here that the first Greek Uni-

versity (the Ionian Academy), the first Philharmonic Orchestra and the First School of Fine Arts were founded.

In the beautifully preserved Old Town of Corfu, a UNESCO world heritage site, Renaissance, Baroque and Classical“repertoire” came to be successfully applied to local artistic traditions. Palaces, fortresses, austere public buildings ofthe Venetian rule uniquely blend with lines of drying laundry in tiny alleyways and small secluded squares. Strollingthrough a complex of narrow cobbled streets with stairways and vaulted passages, the so-called “kantonia”, will makeyou feel as if you’ve traveled to Genoa or Naples.

Tourism in GreeceTHE NATIONAL HERALD, MAY 24, 2014 7

By Aurelia Smeltz

The island of Lesvos has several speciesof owls, but in the villages of Vatousa andXidera you will find an inordinately largepopulation of the Scops Owl, all becauseseveral years ago on a hot summer day ababy Scops fell out of a tree. Villagersdelight in telling the tale to tourists andthe actual size of the owl populationseems to get larger with each telling. Hereis the back story:

A writer from the States rented a homefor the summer near the kafenion in thePlatia in the village of Vatousa. One daywhile sipping his cappuccino and mindinghis own business, a baby owl fell from itsnest in the tree above and landed at hisfeet. The kindly man took the tiny birdhome and cared for him until he was well

enough and strong enough to fly away.

Despite the fact that the owl wasconsidered a sign of wisdom in antiquity,in many Greek villages today the owl isconsidered a symbol of bad luck. Childrenare taught to avoid the bird at all costs.The writer saw children running from himin terror when they saw him holding theowl. Gradually, curiosity grew and whenno ill will came to the man, the attitude ofthe villagers and children changed.

Apparently it was rather common forthe little owls to fall from trees and soon,instead of ignoring them, the villagerscarefully cradled them in their arms andbrought them to the writer’s home whereowls were flying about or resting on alarge rock in the kitchen.

Owls have many moods and are to beavoided when they are annoyed, but thewriter says most of the time “they wereplayful as kittens.” He estimates that heraised eleven owls, although villagers givelarger numbers. Since that fateful summerday when the first baby owl fell from thetree, the Scopes Owl population inVatousa and nearby Xidera has grownexponentially.

Lesvos is indeed a “birdwatcher’sparadise,” and a bonus is an explosion ofwild flowers in the Spring. Purchase a copyof Richard Brooks guide “Birding in Lesvos”by sending an email to email@richard-brooks.co.uk and head for Lesvos. He saysthe very best place to see large varieties ofbirds on Lesvos is at Skala Kaloni, but if youfancy the Scops Owl, by all means pay avisit to Vartousa and Xidera.

By Constantinos E. Scaros

For those who have never been toRhodes, the most applicable illustrationmight be to compare it to is to describeNew York State in its splendiferousentirety, and then to emphasize that at itsone tip sits New York City, the center ofthe world and a complete antithesis to therest of the vast, picturesque, andcomparatively rural state. That’s whatRhodes Town is like, sitting at the tip ofRhodes Island.

But New York, arguably, is only theworld’s second-most accessible city. Thefirst is Rhodes. Rhodes Town, particularlythe center (“to kentro”) has everythingone could ever want within walkingdistance, even more so than Manhattan:fantastic beaches, wonderful eateries –ranging from fancy restaurants,spectacular mom-and-pop finds, and anarray of fast-food joints for the lessdiscriminating diners – chic shoppes thatwould rival some of the world’s mosttouted shopping districts, and even acasino.

What makes Rhodes stand out evenmore, in a surprising way, is two of life’ssimple pleasures: ice cream and classicrock. In each case, Rhodes has, far andaway, the best of both. Not just in Greece,but in the entire world.

If you can picture a velvet clouddescend from the sky, taste like vanilla,chocolate, yogurt praline, cookie dough,wild cherry, or an array of other mouth-watering flavors, then you must haveeaten at STANH (pronounced “STAH-nee”), Rhodes’ premier ice cream parlor.Interestingly, the multiple-locationfranchise is owned by locals who are thedescendants of Ibrahim Sari-Hassan, theTurk who founded the business.

Unfortunately, some bigoted locals won’tsample the island’s best ice cream becauseit is made by “Turks.” It’s their loss – moreice cream for the rest of us. If they are sohung up on national pride, then I suggestthey channel their energy into making abetter product.

In the meantime, you’ll find the rest ofus at STANH for our daily taste thank youvery much. For the best possibleexperience, try the store at Agia AnastasiaStreet, near the Diagoras Stadium. That’swhere the ice cream is made fresh, manytimes per day. Because no preservativesare added, it tastes best the moment itcomes out of the mixer. If need be, stickaround and wait for your favorite flavor. Itis well worth the wait.

For those of you who enjoy the music ofthe Rolling Stones, the Beatles, EricClapton, Jimi Hendrix, Led Zeppelin, DeepPurple , the Doors, the Eagles, FleetwoodMac, Credence Clearwater Revival, and ahost of other classic rock bands from the60s and 70s, you will be hard pressed tofind a better band in the world that playsall of these classics than the trio knowninformally as the Tres Hombres at StickyFingers. Named after the Stones’ album ofthe same name, this rock club justcelebrated its 35th anniversary. Founded by Manoli and Costa Iraclides,two Greek-born, African-raised brotherswho returned to their roots, Sticky Fingersis truly a rock and roll institution. Costa sings a staggering amount ofdifferent songs and plays bass and acousticguitar, while Taki plays a lead guitar sochilling that you can close your eyes andimagine that you’re listening to theoriginal. His lead vocals are outstandingtoo, by the way. Mitso rounds out the bandon drums, and Manoli usually stops by todo a few Stones songs, with every bit theheart and soul of Mick Jagger.

The options about where to stay inRhodes are virtually endless, but for theoptimal experience, it is all about location,location, location. The Hotel Internationalfor instance, is not by any means Rhodes’most luxurious hotel – that honor isreserved for spots such as the RodosPalace, the Olympic Palace, the Hilton, andthe Mira Mare. But unlike those exquisitevacation havens, it is within walkingdistance to all of what I have described;you would have to take a cab back andforth from the others. Objectivelyspeaking, staying at a place in the heart ofthings – whether it’s the International orone of a handful of other locales – is thebest way to fully appreciate the world’smost accessible city.

Rhodes has come a long way from theearly 1980s, when there was a dance club(they called them “discothèques” backthem) on every corner and toga parties onthe beaches at night. It is a more reservedisland now, with most of the late-nightpartying confined to the multi-ethnic BarStreet, or the locally-dominated Old Town.Nowadays, residents and less ambitioustourists alike can get a quiet night’s sleep ifthey so choose.

And if you manage to stay in Rhodesfor a nice, long jaunt – say, ten days ormore – you might get tired of “the big cityroutine” and opt to take a trip to one ofthe vast island’s numerous idyllic ruralbeach towns. Such as Gennadi, which is a good 90minutes South of Rhodes Town. It featuresa spectacular, sprawling beach that isquiet, free of the tourist mayhem.

To put it another way, if you were tobuild the quintessential island that had

a little something for everyone, it would behard to imagine finding a better one thanRhodes.

Rhodes: a Diamond-Shaped Greek IslandContains the World’s Most Accessible City

By Constantinos E. Scaros

If the game $25,000Pyramid, made famous by DickClark, had “Places in Greece”as an answer choice, amongthe likely clues would be:Athens, Parthenon, Rhodes,Crete, Mykonos, Santorini,Corfu and Peloponnese. Hardlyanyone would mention hiddengems like Alonissos,Kastellorizo, or Samothraki.And wonderful though thosethree islands are, they aremere dots on typical Map ofGreece placemat found inmany a Greek restaurant, oftenso small they go unnamed.

That a much bigger dot,however – a blotch, really, andone that looks very much likethe State of New Jersey, and isactually the fifth-largest islandin all of Greece – is relativelyunknown to tourists, renders it– Chios, that is – an excellentcandidate to be proclaimedGreece’s best-kept secret.

Oh, there are plenty ofGreek-Americans who visitChios year in, year out. Butmost of them have their rootsthere. Comparatively fewer ofthem, and fewer non-Greeksyet, utter the words “hey, whydon’t we go to Chios” whenformulating their Greece travelplans.

That an island as large asChios is so devoid of tourists,however, does not mean it isnot worth visiting. Quite theopposite, in fact.

WHY NOT CHIOS?But if Chios is worth visiting

– for reasons we will explorelater – then why don’t moretourists go there? That’s just it– unlike other islands thatdepend on tourists to surviveand thrive, Chios does not.There’s a lot of money onChios, from shipping to thecultivation of masticha trees –which only seem to growcorrectly on that island, andspecifically in the Southernregion, in fact. Chians, thencan take or leave tourists.Generally a very friendlybunch, local Chians will maketourists – Greek and non-Greekalike – feel right at home. Butthey won’t go out of their wayto generate tourism, either. Ifthe tourists happen to show up– then so be it.

WHY CHIOS?Now that we’ve covered

why Chios is such a “well-keptsecret,” what is it that makes itworthwhile to visit? WhyChios, as opposed to so manyother Greek islands from whichto choose? One of theattractions, in fact, is the lackof tourism. Its ample size,coupled with only modesttourism, makes it quitecomfortable and spacious, easyto find a room or rent a car, be

seated quickly in a restaurant,or obtain an umbrella on thebeach.

Another reason, particularlyappealing to Americans, is thatmost of the tourists there willbe other Americans. Greek-Americans, to be exact. So forany non-Greek American waryabout the language barrier,there’s a better chance that agaggle of Americans will be onhand on Chios than on many ofthe other Greek islands thatare most often inhabited bySwedes, Norwegians, Italians,and Danes.

Then, there is the all-important reason of climate.Known as the “Island of theWind,” Chios is pleasantlybreezy in the hot summermonths, when some of theislands to the South aresweltering saunas. Sure, ifChios’ waters are a little toochilly for swimming in April,the Dodecanese may be thebetter call. But during the peakvacation months, July andAugust, the water is just fine –and so is the middaytemperature.

Finally, there is the varietyof things to do. A pre- or post-beach lunch in Katarraktismakes for the quintessentialGreek island experience: 1)

arrive at the taverna and ordersome mezedes; 2) order abottle of ouzo and a bucket ofice; 3) take it a few feet downto the beach and set it aside; 4)jump in the water to cool offfor a couple of minutes; 5)come out of the water, sitdown to dry off in the warmsun, and pour yourself a glassof ouzo on the rocks; 6) whenyou’re done – pour a secondone, or come back up to yourtable – your meal will bewaiting!

Take a walk throughAplotaria, a street closed totraffic during certain hours ofthe day, so that shoppers canwalk from store to store. Andthere are stores of all kinds,one right next to the other.

Climb to the top ofAvgonima and partake in anincredible meal with amountainous view from everyangle. Drive down to Vroulidia–at the island’s Southernmosttip – for a secluded swim thenext day, and stop by MavraVolia – the black rocks beachwhere the water is the crispestand coolest for the ultimate inrefreshing sea experiences.

For a combination ofvariety, comfortabletemperatures, plenty of goodbeaches and restaurants, andwarm, friendly locals, fewplaces in Greece offer all thosethings, and more, as well asdoes Chios.

Chios: Greece’sBest-Kept Secret

Lesbos: Where the Owls Fall from the Trees

Tourism in Greece8 THE NATIONAL HERALD, MAY 24, 2014

By Anthe Mitrakos

Each offering their own flavor and tradition,Greek islands are magical destinations toexperience during all times of the year. If youprefer the waterside to mountain villages, thenisland hopping may be your definition of aperfect getaway. The island of Poros in the Argo-Saronic Gulf is close to Athens, yet so far away.The charming port of Poros is among the mostlovely in Greece, as it is traditionally packedwith seafaring vessels of all sorts during thesailing season, while picturesque houses line thebackground of this lively waterfront.

Sailing into Poros port during dusk or dawn,the mellowing pastel hues of periwinkle, dustyblue, light pink, and contrasting yellow-orangemake for a memorable relaxing scene. And withits characteristic clock tower marking the port'shighest point in the distance, a visit to Porosisland will surely be remembered.

Once on land, the clock tower's bell chimeswill follow you around the port early in themorning and well into the night.

The port of Poros is host to a number ofrestaurants, cafes, bars, and clubs, which allowfor a seamless transition from dinner to drinksand music until the early morning.

Watch a film at the outdoor cinema, look forthe perfect souvenir at a variety of local shops,or explore the winding stone paths of thisamphitheatrically-built port neighborhood onyour way to a breathtaking panoramic viewfrom the Poros clock tower. And don't forgetyour camera!

Stare out from the port into the distance towatch one of the most beautiful sunsets you'llsee, and look for the Sleeping Beauty...a set ofmountains that from that angle look like areclining woman.

Discover the ancient history and local islandtraditions with a visit to the Archeological andFolklore Museums. Trek out to the ruins ofPoseidon’s Temple, dating back to 520 BC, theRussian Naval Base, the Residence of GovernorIoannis Kapodistrias, and the Zoodohos PigiMonastery.

Poros is also unique in that it is split betweentwo islands connected by a small bridge. Thelarger part called Kalavria, is very green and fullof pine forests, while Sferia, the volcanic part ofPoros, serves as the port and main touristattraction.

Beaches here include the organized AskeliBeach, the pine-tree filled Love Bay, and sandyMegalo Neorio. Watersports including skiing andparasailing are a favorite among summervisitors.

For more seaside exploring, nearby islands inthe Argo-Saronic (Argolic Gulf and SaronicGulf) include Hydra, Spetses, and Aegina. Poroscan be reached from Athens by car and thenwith a ferryboat across from Galatas town, or byboat from the port of Piraeus, about a 55-minuteride in a catamaran or hydrofoil. Or you can besuper cool and sail in for a couple days!

Whether looking for a relaxing beachgetaway or an interesting stroll around town,Poros island welcomes you.

The Picturesque Port of Poros

The Peloponnese’s Corinthian TipBy Constantine S. Sirigos

The Peloponnese is filled with remarkableplaces, well worth an extensive trip, but visitorson a day drip from Athens who set foot on itsNortheast corner at Corinth can get a taste ofthe whole, with mountains cascading down towonderful beaches, fascinating historical sitesand plenty of entertainment and good food atthe local tavernas, bars, and cafes.

St. Paul could not stay away from theimportant ancient entrepot of Corinth. After 18months there he did not want to leave, but hisfellow Jews had him arrested for preachingabout Christ – although the city’s widely reputedlicentiousness was also on his agenda.

The Roman governor released him and he

continued on to Rome, and today the Cathedralof St. Paul is a fine modern adaptation ofByzantine architecture.

History tends to repeat itself in Corinth, andnot its happiest moments. The original ancientcity was destroyed by the Roman consul LuciusMummius in 146 BC, who also killed the menand sold the women and children into slavery.For the next 100 years, only a handful ofsquatters lived there, but in 44 BC Julius Caesarrebuilt the city St. Paul eventually found.

After an earthquake leveled the modern townthat developed around the second AncientCorinth, Nea Korinthos was founded in 1858.

Economic decline occurred between ancientand modern times, and even prior to the

economic crisis, ModernCorinth, which had becomea major manufacturingcenter, began todeindustrialize again.

Jobs are still scarce, buttourists are flocking there.The most famousattraction is the Canal thatwas conceived by theancients and carved out ofthe rock of thePeloponnese in 1893.

Another example ofCorinthian foreshadowing– there is now a railwaybridge across the canal –was the Diolkos, a trackway cut into stone, uniquein the ancient world,across which ships werehauled in lieu of theunbuilt canal.

Guests will findnumerous ancient sites invarious states of ruin thatare nevertheless romanticprospects amid hills andmeadows.

The view of the entireregion – sea, mountains,and valleys and nearbyislands – the acropolis ofCorinth, the Acrocorinththat rises 1800 feet fromthe surrounding plain andwas once the home of aTemple of Aphrodite, isbreathtaking.

By Aurelia Smeltz

If you are fortunate enough to visit one of the remote mountainvillages of Crete, and if you are not fluent in the language, buthave the services of a local translator, you will hear one of themost fascinating stories ever told. The tale has been transmitted as“oral history” for years in the mountain tavernas, but it is usuallytold as though it happened yesterday.It is the compelling and intriguing tale of The Legend of the

Twelve Archontopoula. While much of the story is unauthenticated,it has captured the attention of professional and amateur historians,genealogists, sociologists, mystery lovers, and a large number ofCretans. While many Cretans claim they are descendants of one of the

twelve, there are some actual descendants who are not aware of

their true lineage. What is this tantalizing legend? What is truthand what is fiction?Let us go back in time to the 12th Century in Constantinople,

then known as Byzantium, when Byzantium ruled Crete. It is saidthere was unrest in Crete. Most believe there was a rebellion. Andso, the story or legend goes, a Byzantine emperor sent the headsof twelve noble Byzantine families to settle in Crete and he dividedthe island amongst them. The largest piece, which included Sfakia,went to a man named Skordylis.At some point, most likely during the time of Venetian rule, a

claim was made that there was an official document (an order)signed by an emperor. The document was called a chrysobull(golden seal) and it gave the twelve men royal lineage. The chrysob-ull has never been found, but there are six documents concerningthe Archontopoula that have been published; of the six, historians

consider just two to be the most interesting.These two documents, however, contain historical information

that historians consider “mutually irreconcilable.” One documentactually has the notation “Falsification,” and there are three versionsof the second, two written in Greek and one in Italian, but onlyone of them (Greek) is dated. Historians cannot agree on whetherthe documents are authentic or “suspect.”It is a fact, however, that by the beginning of the 13th Century

certain Cretan families owned much land, lived as landed aristoc-racy and led revolts against the Venetians. Whether they were actually sent here originally by an emperor

has not been proven. Whether an “order” or chrysobull was everissued has not been proven. And whether they were of “great andnoble birth” is not known, but it makes for one of the most fasci-nating stories still told in the tavernas in the mountains of Crete.

By Aurelia Smeltz

Of all the islands in the Western Cyclades, some say Sifnos may be the most “spiritual.” There is achurch with fresco interiors where it is said angels come to sing before the priest starts his service,there is a bay so serene it appears to kneel before you, and there is a stairway beside a brilliant,white-washed monastery that is rumored to lead to, well… heaven.

And all of these enchanting places are easily accessible from Dina’s Rooms in the island’s mainport of Kamares. Dina’s rooms are on a horseshoe-shaped bay on the quiet side of the gentle body ofbrilliant blue-green water. It is a perfect setting for those wanting peace and solitude, but just ashort walk to the shops and tavernas and the bus stop across the bay. During the day, one cansunbathe on the veranda (or on the nearby beach or rocks just minutes away) and in the evening itis pleasant to view the bright lights of the tavernas and the famous “Captain’s Bar,” on the otherside. Yachtsmen come from all over Greece to have a drink with the captain and party into earlymorning hours. Guests at Dina’s are happy they are on the opposite side of the bay!

The Arguras Restaurant and Taverna is next to Dina’s Rooms and it is without a doubt the bestrestaurant in Kamares and one of the best dining spots on the entire island. Fresh fish is served dailyand the catch comes directly from the morning boats. Arguras, the owner, will grill a fish toperfection and his wife, Stella, makes a variety of Greek specialties for the afternoon and eveningmeals. Guests are invited into the kitchen to make their selections.

Sifnos is a mountainous island with small valleys filled with olive and almond trees andnumerous beaches with thin, golden sand. It has a triangular shape of seventy-four square miles anda perimeter of twenty-eight miles.

Kamares is centrally located and a bus near the newsstand will take one to many points, includingthe port of Faros, within ten to twenty minutes. Photographers come from all over the world to takepictures of the famous monasteries, particularly the Monastery of Panaghia Chryssopighi, a magnificentsnow-white structure with the stairway to heaven. It sits dramatically on a rock that some say wassplit during a miracle performed by the Virgin Mary, patron saint and protector of the island.

Sifnos is approximately five hours by boat from Piraeus, and the trip is shorter by Flying Dolphin.Connections can be made easily to the nearby islands of Paros, Syros, Kythnos, Serifos, Folegandros,Sikinos, and Santorini. Boats also leave regularly for Crete, Ios, and the Dodecanese.

Sifnos: Stairway to Heaven

In Crete’s Mountains – The Legend of the 12 Archontopoula

Tourism in GreeceTHE NATIONAL HERALD, MAY 24, 2014 9

By Anthe Mitrakos

Situated in the Aegean Sea as part of the Cycladesislands, Tinos is famed among Greek pilgrims for itsChurch of Evangelistria but is much less known amongtourists for its selection of 40 traditional villages andcollection of beautiful beaches. Kept as more of a secret,the enchanting island of Tinos hosts countlessattractions including the quaint villages, charmingwaterfronts, local cuisine, and traditional culture.

The island is popular particularly on March 25 andon August 15, or "dekapentaugousto," which celebratesand honors the Virgin Mary. On these days, worshipersfrom around the world flock to the island for aspectacular display of hundreds of faithful proceedingto the Church of Evangelistria on their knees, atradition that has lasted many decades on the island.Aside from spectacular religious attractions, Tinos isalso ideal for nature, art, and architecture enthusiasts.

The island is also celebrated for its great marblecarving tradition, being the homeland of a number ofartists including Lytras, Gyzis, Chalepas, and Filippotis.Legend has it that ancient sculptor Fidias shared thesecrets of his art techniques with locals, who in turnwent on to create impressive marble works displayed infountains, chapels, and buildings. Some of these piecesare currently featured at the island's Gallery of TinianArtists and the Marble Art Museum.

Despite the fact it is not advertised as a popularGreek destination, the island of Tinos is very interestingand offers a variety of exciting experiences. Choosefrom a selection of 40 villages including Pyrgos, Agapi,Arnados, Volax, Komi, Steni, and Falatados, to explorethe traditional Greek village lifestyle. One of the largestof the Tinian villages, Pyrgos is named after a Venetiancastle that used to exist in the area and is in moderntimes known for its marble works culture, whichincludes the 1955 Art School for Marble Sculpture, afountain dedicated to the Greek Revolution of 1821,and two marble museums. At the village of Arnados,you will find the Monastery of Kechrovouni and the cellof nun Pelagia, while at the village of Agapi, built in the shape ofan amphitheater, one can enjoy the sight of an abundant riverrunning through a valley, or spot the well-preserved dovecotesscattered throughout the settlement.

Just above Agapi is the tiny village of Volax, where many ofthe houses were built into the rock and granite blocks of themountain. Although it is one of the smaller villages of Tinos,there is still much to see in Volax, where one can explore thefolklore museum next to the small Catholic Church, peruse the

gift shops, eat at the tavernas, and perhaps even come across afew basket weavers still making traditional goods. Looking toexplore a cherished low-key island in the Aegean? Try Tinos for agetaway full of tradition, art, and culture.

If you're looking for a party,you'll find it in Mykonos, theisland that takes its name fromthe god Apollo's grandson. Acosmopolitan retreat attractingthousands of tourists from all

over the world during thesummer season, Mykonos is ahot spot to see and be seen.Inhabited in prehistoric timessince the 5th millennium B.C.,Mykonos today retains its

popularity as a top Greekisland tourist destination.

A walk around Chora, theisland's waterfront town, willleave you amused in all sorts of

ways. Featuring the traditionalCycladic look with a number ofchurches, cube-shapedwhitewashed houses, andcharacteristic brightly- coloreddoors and window shutters,

Mykonos is a piece of art.Large yachts and tiny fishingboats alike line the harbor inChora, creating a harmoniousmix that's picture-perfect.

Traditional windmills, craftshops, eateries, art galleries,and a bustling tourist wave dayand night make Mykonos theisland that truly never sleeps. Ifyou're in no rush to besomewhere, getting lost in thewinding narrow paths andalleys of Chora is an interestingexperience that can lead tomany quaint surprises. In justturning the corner of a busypath filled with noise and life,you may unexpectedly findyourself in a serene churchcourtyard, gazing at theromantic setting of a purpleflower-filled street, or meetingcomplete strangers asking fordirections to a lively dancescene in Mikri Venetia. Here,music and dancing at variousclubs and bars continues wellinto the early morning hours.At some point when the sun isshy of rising, the clubs diedown, but you may findyourself stumbling upon a pubplaying live rebetiki musicbehind closed doors.

And just when you think theparty is over, you'll hear thelocals starting their dailyroutine setting up shops andcafes ready to serve morningcoffee and delicious crepes!

When it comes to beaches,

Mykonos boasts a selection.Paradise and Super Paradisebeaches are known for theirloud music and wild partieswhile Ornos and Psaroubeaches are quieter and morefamily-friendly. For thoselooking to connect more withnature, less-organized beachesinclude Agia Anna, Kapari, andAgios Stefanos.

Aside from seafood, localcuisine includes the kopanisti,a pepper-covered soft cheese,and a variety of mezedesincluding local sausages. For asweet treat, there's theamygdalota, clusters of groundalmond, rosewater, and sugar.For those interested in history,there's the ArchaeologicalMuseum, the FolkloreMuseum, and MaritimeMuseum of Mykonos, whichhouse plenty of artifacts andinformational material.

Mykonos is posh, exciting,and glamorous, yet simple, anddefinitely a place to get toknow at least once in yourlifetime.

And if you're lucky, you mayeven get to pose with thefamous local pelican, Petros.Mykonos is most popularamong European tourists in themonth of August, so make sureto make arrangements inadvance, or visit in the spring,early summer, or fall, for amore relaxing islandexperience.

Tinos: A Spiritual Getaway

Magical Mykonos

Santorini - An Aegean Gem By Anthe Mitrakos

From its legendary connection to mythicalAtlantis, to breathtaking sunsets, uniquearchitecture, and rich local traditions, you'rebound to fall in love with one of Santoriniisland's exceptional qualities. With some ofthe most dreamy scenes on the planet, it'sno wonder this island is known for itsromantic aura, and has become a popularwedding destination in recent years.

Also known as Thira (door), crescent-shaped Santorini and its small group ofislands (Thira, Thirassia, Aspronissi, PaleaKameni, and Nea Kameni) actually make upactive volcano in the Aegean Sea. In fact,these small islands were born of volcanicactivity throughout time, one eruption ofwhich is credited to have wiped out thegreat Minoan civilization in Crete roughly3,600 years ago. And the most recentvolcanic activity occurred as recently as1950! The fact that this picturesque island ispart of a living volcano adds that specialtouch to every visit to Santorini. Today, thearea's water-covered Caldera, a cauldron-like formation shaped by the collapse ofland following a volcanic eruption, hasdepth of roughly 400 meters below sea level.

So when you're not fearing of anothereruption, what's there to do on Santorinibesides capture some astonishing views oncamera? Rent a car and explore the island'stowns, including Oia, Akrotiri, Imerovili,and Fira, the charming capital of Santorini.

Or visit the various archaeological sitesincluding Pyrgos, Emporio, Finikia, Kamari,and Monolithos. Taking a ride around theisland you will notice vast vineyards thatthrive in the island's volcanic soil. With awine-making tradition that dates back toancient times, the island is host to a numberof local wineries that are open to the public,serving as restaurants and museums, sothere is much to explore (and drink) whenventuring off to the various island towns.Just don't drink and drive! Known for itsspecial local wine varieties, Santoriniproduces Assyrtiko, Aidani, andMaurotragano wines, among others.Paradise for culinary enthusiasts andfoodies alike, local Santorini cuisineincludes recipes using traditional productslike fava, white eggplant, cherry tomatoes,and capers.

As for the waterfront, a variety of volcanicpebbles and rock formations adorn thebeaches of Santorini. Enjoy the black, white,and red sand assortment this island boastswhen taking a dip in salty waters.

Thira is accessible by plane at Santoriniairport, or by boat at the Athinios or Skalaports. The town of Fira can then be accessedby cable car, foot, or for a more amusingexperience, by traditional Santorini donkeyrides! Distinct whitewashed homes andstructures, specialty cuisine, and gorgeousviews make Santorini a must-see Greekisland in the Aegean. Experience the charmand elegance of this unique gem with anunforgettable visit.

Tourism in Greece10 THE NATIONAL HERALD, MAY 24, 2014