The Other Iran

We have all seen the stereotypical images of Iran: angry clerics, anti-American propaganda, and nuclear scientists. Yet there is another Iran, the Iran of its people. With over 75 million people, Iran is a country of immense history and diversity. It is also a land of paradox, a theocratic republic with a relatively modern and educated populace. In spite of strict religious policies, communities of Iranian Jews, Christians, and Zoroastrians are tolerated and constitutionally allotted at least one representative each to the Iranian Parliament (although the Baha’is are not as fortunate). Primarily as a result of its long imperial history, Iran is home to a diverse array of ethnolinguistic and religious communities, despite being a majority Persian Shia country. For example, there are more Iranian Azeris than there are citizens of Azerbaijan. Other sizable ethnic groups include the people of Iranian Kurdistan, Iranian Baluchistan, and various other groups including traditionally nomadic peoples. Restricting our perceptions of Iran to sound bites and newspaper covers produces a vastly incomplete portrait of the land of the Iranians.

Left: Naqsh-e Jahan Square was constructed in the early 17th century in Isfahan, the capital city of the Safavid Empire. The massive square is surrounded by the Shah Mosque, Ali Qapu Palace, Sheikh Lotfollah Mosque, and the Isfahan Grand Bazaar.

By Omeed Alerasool, Boston College, Class of 2015

Photo Diaries 61

Kaleidoscope Journal Vol. 6 Issue 262

The Other Iran

Right: This domed structure in Kerman is an ancient evaporative cooler. In Persian it is called yakhchal, which literally means ice pit and is the same word used for modern refrigerators. When

in use centuries ago, these ingenious structures were used to store ice and food year-round.

Left: Shazdeh Garden, or the Prince’s Garden, was built during the Qajar era in the 19th century. It lies in middle of the dry hills of Kerman Province.

Left: Rayen Castle in Kerman Province is an adobe fortress evidently from the Sassanid era. Although similar castles in the area have faced decay and ruin, (including the massive Bam Citadel that was destroyed by an earthquake in 2003) Rayen remains largely intact.

Alerasool

Photo Diaries 63

Left: The growing tourism industry of Qeshm, the largest of the islands in the Persian Gulf, revolves around several natural sights as well as some historic Portuguese landmarks. Hengam Island, a small island to the south of Qeshm, is only accessible via boat.

Above: Four Achaemenid emperors were buried at the Naqsh-e Rostam necropolis, located near Persepolis, in the 5th century BCE. Two of the tombs, as well as the so-called Cube of Zoroaster, are not visible in this photo. Two reliefs from the Sassanid era are visible, however, including the “Triumph of Shapur” on the left. The Sassanid emperor Shapur I famously defeated three Roman emperors in battle (Gordian III, Philip the Arab, and Valerian) in the 3rd century CE.

Kaleidoscope Journal Vol. 6 Issue 264

The Other Iran

Right: At Pasargadae, the original capital of the Achaemenid Empire located in the hilly plains of

modern Fars Province, lies the modest tomb of its founding emperor. Cyrus the Great established the

first policies of human rights and religious freedom in history. In the Old Testament, Cyrus is referred to as a messiah for liberating the Jews held captive

in Babylon. Having conquered almost every country in the known world, Cyrus left a lasting legacy on

human civilization through his achievements in human rights and governance.

Left: This relief is carved into the side of steps leading up to the Apadana Palace at Persepolis, depicting the mythical origins of the Persian New Year. Even after 2500 years, Iranians of all faiths still celebrate this ancient holiday of Zoroastrian origin. Held on the first day of spring, the holiday is symbolic of rebirth.

Above: The Gate of All Nations served as the main entrance for foreign dignitaries visiting the Achaemenid citadel of Persepolis, located in modern Fars Province. Darius the Great founded Persepolis as the new capital of the empire in the late 6th century BCE.

Right: In December, this shop in Shiraz displays a number of small Christmas

trees and ornaments for sale.

Left: As this man likely walks to work, he passes what was once the Embassy of the United States in Tehran. Now a museum of the Iranian Revolution, the embassy building stands as a reminder of Iran’s more recent history, adorned with revolutionary and anti-American propaganda. This section reads: “We will make America face a severe defeat.” The 1953 CIA-led coup was organized out of the basement of the embassy. Believing that a similar coup was in the works in 1979, radical Iranian students stormed the building and held 52 Americans for 444 days. As of early 2015, Iran and the United States are in the midst of the highest levels of negotiations since 1979, as they attempt to find a negotiated solution over Iran’s nuclear program and potentially forge a path towards reconciliation.

Left: Constructed in 2007, as part of the Tehran International Trade and Convention Centre, Milad Tower is the 6th tallest tower in the world and, when not obscured by air pollution, is visible from across the megalopolis of Tehran.

Alerasool

Photo Diaries 65