The Hole Problem in Knit Goods

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    The Hole Problemin Knit Goods

    Three Basic Considerations whenKnitting a Fabric to Reduce Holesand Dropped Stitches

    Yarn

    Machine

    Housekeeping and maintenance

    The Relationship to Yarn

    Cause and effect of:

    Holes

    Dropped stitches

    Unwanted tucks

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    Holes and Other Alias

    Hole

    A fabric imperfection in which oneyarn or several yarns aresufficiently damaged to create anopening.

    Fairchilds Dictionary of Textiles

    Single Jersey - Face

    Hole

    Holes and Other Alias

    Dropped Stitch

    Defect in knitted fabric; recurrentopenings in one or more wales of aknitted fabric because the stitches didnot knit. Not to be confused with ahole, caused by rupture of one or moreyarns.

    Fairchilds Dictionary of Textiles

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    Dropped Stitch

    Single Jersey - Face

    Single Jersey - Face

    Dropped Stitch

    Holes and Other Alias

    Unwanted Tuck

    An unwanted knitting stitch that

    produces tuck or open work effects by

    having certain needles hold more than

    one stitch at a time.

    Fairchilds Dictionary of Textiles

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    Single Jersey - Face

    Unwanted Tuck Stitch

    Unwanted Tuck Stitch

    Single Jersey - Back

    Unwanted Tuck Stitch

    Single Jersey - Face

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    Unwanted Tuck Stitch

    Single Jersey - Back

    Types of Loops

    Regular Knit LoopTechnical Face

    Regular Knit LoopTechnical Back

    Types of Loops

    Tuck LoopTechnical Face

    Tuck LoopTechnical Back

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    Yarn

    Size

    Variation (thick and thin)Strength

    Twist

    Knots and splicing

    Hairiness

    Trash content

    Incorrect Yarn Size

    If yarn size is too large for the

    machine gauge or the needle

    hook, then stresses on the yarn

    and fabric during knitting can

    result in holes.

    NCSU OptimumYarn Formula

    Single Knit: Cut2

    18

    Double Knit: Cut2

    15

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    Thick and Thin Yarns

    Variation in yarn diameter can

    result in variations in yarn tensions

    resulting in holes and drop stitches.

    Hole

    Long Slub Single Jersey

    Hole

    Long Slub Single Jersey

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    Yarn Strength

    If yarn strength is too low for

    the knitting parameters being

    used (tightness factor, stitch

    length, etc.), holes can result.

    Tightness Factor for Knits

    TF = 9.567____

    St. Length x NE

    sinkeror

    trick wall

    needle

    cam angle

    Tension in Knitting and Robbing-Back

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    Yarn Twist

    If yarn twist is too high, twist

    liveliness can result causing the

    yarn to kink. This changes the

    yarn diameter and yarn tension,

    which can result in holes or drop

    stitches.

    Twist Multiple

    TM = TURNS PER INCH

    NE

    KNITTING TWIST = 3.5 TM

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    Yarn Knots orUnsatisfactory Splicing

    Incorrect yarn splicing or knot

    tying can cause high and variableyarn tension, which results in

    holes and drop stitches. Also,

    long tails from knots result in

    doubling or tripling of the yarn

    diameter.

    Yarn Knot and Tail Single Jersey

    Hole

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    Yarn Knot and Tail Single Jersey

    Hole

    Knot and Tail Single Jersey

    Hole

    Yarn Hairiness

    A yarn with excessive hairiness

    can increase yarn tension and lint

    shedding, which can result in

    holes and drop stitches.

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    Coefficient of Friction

    UNWAXED .24

    WAXED [ APPAREL ]= .14 to .15

    Yarn Trash Content

    Yarns with high levels of trash

    can create problems with

    tightness stress, weak spots in

    yarn, and variations in yarn

    tension.

    Hole

    Trash Single Jersey

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    Hole

    Trash Single Jersey - Back

    Hole

    Trash in Yarn

    Conclusion

    Yarn quality can directly

    affect fabric quality.