The Hard Graft - The DJ Technique Applied to Menswear

A.C.F. The Art Comes First Rota1ng Collec1ve

It’s a very simple thing.

A few folks working in menswear believe that contemporary men have the opportunity to stylis1cally assert:

WHERE THEY COME FROM

WHO THEY ARE WHO THEY INTEND TO BECOME

And the same folks believe that part of realizing this opportunity involves exploring,

understanding and adap1ng elements from the past to contribute to an individual view of the future.


THE HARD GRAFT THE DJ TECHNIQUE APPLIED TO MENSWEAR A DEMONSTRATION, EXHIBITION & PROVOCATION


presents:

CREATED BY

SAM LAMBERT SHAKA MAIDOH

LIAM MAHER MATTEO GIOLI

THE HARD GRAFT

It starts with good news. It starts with a gospel.

It starts with an ever deepening three-‐dimensional well of inspiraPon:

OUR UNIVERSAL COLLECTIVE GEOGRAPHY OUR UNIVERSAL COLLECTIVE HISTORY

Immense and ever expanding its secrets and stories are simultaneously

finite and discoverable.

[THE FUTURE]

[THE PAST]

[THE

EAS

T]

[THE

WEST]

ANCIENT GREECE

THE DARK AGES

ENLIGHTENMENT

INDUSTRIAL AGE

GREAT WAR

INTERWAR

WW2

THE 50'S

COUNTER CULTURE

DEPRESSION

OIL CRISIS

GEN-‐ME

GRUNGE

SOCIAL NETWORK

[THE FUTURE]

[THE PAST]

UTILITY GARMENT HISTORY

A DEEPENING WELL OF FUNCTIONAL

REFERENCE

[THE FUTURE]

[THE PAST]

SARTORIAL HISTORY

A DEEPENING WELL OF CUT & DRAPE

SHAPE REFERENCES

[THE FUTURE]

[THE PAST]

the squire.

the dandy.

the young turk.

This gospel informs the tradi1on we work in. This gospel should also relate the industry we work in.

SOMETIMES THE INDUSTRY BENEFITS FROM CONFRONTATION WITH THE TRADITION

INTRODUCING:

THE HARD GRAFT THE DJ TECHNIQUE APPLIED TO MENSWEAR

Like DJ’s, menswear designers crate-‐dig into the past, disassemble standards and

classics from the jazz and pop music.

They then employ a process of gra_ing, mixing, fusion and hybridizaPon to give shape to new ideas and modern forms.

-‐And besides:

All designers want to be rock-‐stars.

STARTING AND ENDING WITH MUSICAL INSPIRATION

KEEPING TO THE DJ THEME

STYLE INSPIRATION FIGURES IN MUSIC

PREPARATION VINTAGE SOURCING

DEMONSTRATION THE DJ TECHNIQUE

EXHIBITION LIVE DISPLAY CREATION

BOSTON

AMSTERDAM

LONDON BRIGHTON

NEW YORK

FLORENCE

PREPARATION – VINTAGE SOURCING

CONCEPT PREPARATION

CONCEPT PREPARATION

AMSTERDAM 1990s

LEATHER SHIRT

PARIS 1930s

WAISTCOAT

LONDON 1940s

R.N. CAP

LONDON 1940s

R.N. CAP EDINBURGH

1960s BIKER

POP-‐UP TAILOR’S SHOP DEMONSTRATION ZONE

POP-‐UP TAILOR’S SHOP: FLORENCE DEMONSTRATION ZONE

POP-‐UP TAILOR’S SHOP: NEW YORK DEMONSTRATION ZONE

NOMADIC STUDIO

POP-‐UP TAILOR’S SHOP: COPENHAGEN DEMONSTRATION ZONE

EXHIBITION ZONE

POP-‐UP GALLERY EXHIBITION ZONE

POP-‐UP GALLERY: FLORENCE EXHIBITION ZONE

POP-‐UP GALLERY: NEW YORK EXHIBITION ZONE

ORGANIC EXHIBITION

POP-‐UP GALLERY: COPENHAGEN EXHIBITION ZONE

Nat King Cole Thelonious Monk

Jimmy Hendrix Andre 3000 Miles Davis

Laurel Aitken Ben Harper

OPs Redding SPng [Mods/Rockers]

Louis Armstrong MaPsyahu Billy Bragg Robin Gibb

Scoi Walker Bob Geldof

Bowie Paddy McAloon

STARTING AND ENDING WITH MUSICAL INSPIRATION

SPECIFIC STYLE ARCHETYPES

ORGANIC EXHIBITION

BILLY BRAGG: THE CASE STUDY

INDIVIDUAL STYLE CULTURAL REFERENCE

PERSONAL SIGNIFICANCE

ALL IN THE MIX

ORGANIC EXHIBITION

SILK VELVET SPORTCOAT CLUB INSIGNIA ADDED

BIRDSEYE WAISTCOAT INVERTED

SWISS ARMY EPAULET SLEEVE

FOULARD TIE UPSIDE DOWN

CUSTOM RIDING BRITCHES GRAFTED TO 1990’S

LEATHER TROUSER-‐ENDS

OXBLOOD BROGUE TONGUE INVERTED

VACHETTA VAMP GUARD

ORGANIC EXHIBITION

THE HARD GRAFT

join the r/evoluPon.

SAM LAMBERT & SHAKA MAIDOH form the core of the ACF london LIAM MAHER works as the design director at DENHAM amsterdam

MATTEO GIOLI is a founder of SUPER DUPER HATS florence

HARD GRAFT TOUR PROJECTS are managed by JENNIFER MAHER/ENERGY PLAN

TOUR STOPS HAVE INCLUDED:

PITTI UOMO florence CIFF copenhagen

LIBERTY FAIRS new york & las vegas

based on a presentaPon prepared for MUNICH FABRIC START

this overview was developed by ENERGY PLAN

based on a presentaPon prepared for: MUNICH FABRIC START

The Hard Graft - The DJ Technique Applied to Menswear

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