The Faore Islands - Yours to Discover

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THE FAROE ISLANDS Yours to Discover

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Transcript of The Faore Islands - Yours to Discover

Page 1: The Faore Islands - Yours to Discover

THE FAROE ISLANDSYours to Discover

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Listen to the silence

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Step back in time

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Breathe the pure North-Atlantic air

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See the light

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Discover the Faroe IslandsDiscover a world with a different pace of life, a storybook worldwhere children still play laughing in the streets, where thesheep roam free all year round, even in the capital city. This isa land where past and present meet, a land where you canexperience life as it used to be, without sacrificing your moderncomforts. Welcome to the Faroe Islands: eighteen green jewelsrising sheer from the cobalt waters of the North Atlantic, wheresome 50,000 people live in harmony with each other and withnature. The Faroe Islanders know how to make visitors feelwelcome, greeting them with a warmth and hospitality seldomencountered elsewhere. It may be easy to overlook the FaroeIslands on the map – their combined area is less than that ofLondon – but once visited they are never forgotten.

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EasyTravellingIn the Faroe Islands, rivers and streams do not windlazily across the landscape but bound down hillsidesand cliffs in white-foaming haste, because there is nextto no lowland on the islands. Towns and villages standby the sea, often with high mountains in between. But ifyou imagine that it is hard to travel around this ruggedcountry with its eighteen islands and countless fjordsand bays, you’re in for a pleasant surprise. The FaroeIslands infrastructure is as modern and functional as thecolourful wooden houses are traditional and romantic.Every inch of the road network is paved and tunnelsconnect once-remote fjords. Some islands are linked bybridges and two of them are connected by a tunnel thatgoes under the Atlantic, while the ferry company comesto the rescue over longer distances, operating passen-ger and car ferries that sail many times a day betweenthe islands. Those who do not wish to be rocked on theopen sea, or simply want to get around faster, can taketo the scheduled helicopter hops to a wide range ofdestinations on the islands.

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SeeThousandsof BirdsThis is paradise. Not just for birds but for those who wish towatch them in their natural habitat. The ocean around theislands is an inexhaustible larder for seabirds, which swarmaround the rock walls and colonise large areas of some islands.At the peak of the season the Faroe Islands are home to around3.5 million birds. A large proportion of these are puffins andstorm petrels; the latter congregating in greater numbers on theeast coast of Nólsoy island than anywhere else in the world. Onaverage around 40 species of bird breed in the Faroes Islandson a regular basis, while some 40 more species nest thereoccasionally, and ornithologists have recorded a total of around300 species in the islands.

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Be PreparedStrap on your hiking boots or step aboard a boat.Whichever you choose, prepare to come into close con-tact with nature. Even confirmed landlubbers are bound tobe converted by the experience of a Faroe Islands cruise.As if the exhilarating noise and drama of the bird cliffswere not enough, a few metres beyond you will find your-self entering one of the astounding grottoes, carved outby the sea, with vaults to rival the largest cathedrals in theworld. No one can remain unmoved. Or hike into themountains and realise your dream of becoming a shep-herd for the day. There are scores of old paths and track-ways, which once linked settlements before the advent ofthe motor car, but now have no other role than to leadwalkers to spectacular views and some of the cleanest airyou’ll ever breathe. Enjoy!

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Shaped by the SeaIf any one thing has formed the Faroe Islands character it isproximity to the sea. This is hardly surprising given that wher-ever you stand on the islands you are never more than fivekilometres from the shore. The islanders have made their livingby braving the Atlantic since time immemorial, and todayseafood products still account for 97% of export income.The Faroe Islanders are descended from Vikings who set sailfrom Scandinavia more than eleven centuries ago in search ofnew lands which were known to lie to the west.Irish monks are believed to have lived in the islands before thistime, but understandably fled when the North Sea brigandsturned up in their longships. In 1035 the Faroe Islands wereannexed by the Kingdom of Norway, which subsequentlyended up under Danish rule in 1380. And there the islands haveremained ever since, although Sweden acquired Norway in1814. The Faroe Islands were granted home rule in 1948, butare still today part of the Danish realm.

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How did a nation that for centuries consisted of only four tofive thousand souls manage to preserve its own language anddistinct national character? The reasons are the same as thosewhich make the Faroe Islands such an enchanting destinationtoday: the islands are off the beaten track, a world apart,where life carries on largely unchanged and undisturbed byevents in the outside world. Yet, it is still an achievement tohold on to your own tongue, despite centuries of Danish andforeign rule, and the Faroe Islands probably have the ringdance to thank for this: in the Middle Ages similar dances werefamiliar all over Europe but fell out of favour over time, survivingonly here in the Islands. The locals like to perform the ringdance with a crowd of dancers packed into a tight space,which soon grows good and warm. The long human chainwinds through the rooms, accompanied only by the chanting ofthe lead singer and the stamping of feet, and the dance risesand falls to the rhythm of the ballad being told; fast and livelywhen appropriate, slow and mournful when the story turns sad.It is these ballads, sung during the dance, that are the key tothe preservation of the language. Passed down orally fromgeneration to generation, around 70,000 verses have survived. The Faroe Islands are inordinately fond of dancing, and nevermore so than around their national day, which is celebrated on29 July. The day is known as Ólavsøka, after St. Olav, King ofNorway, who died in the year 1030. Although this is the true

national day, the official celebrations begin on the eve of the28th, with a parade through Tórshavn, led by riders bearing theFaroe Islands flag. Traditionally, the Ólavsøka festivities centreon the capital, and inhabitants of other parts of the islandsflock there to take part. Everybody dresses up for the occasionand many men, women and children proudly sport nationalcostume. The high point of 28 July is a rowing competition intraditional eight-oared Faroese gigs, reminiscent of small Vikingships, and after a tough contest in Tórshavn harbour the sum-mer’s rowing champions are crowned. Both sexes competeand the atmosphere during the races is as electric as at anyfootball match in warmer climes. But the Islanders attend notonly to take part in an organised programme but also – per-haps equally – to see and be seen. In the evening there aredances all over town and if there is one time the Faroese reallylet their hair down, it is Ólavsøka. On St. Olav’s Day itself, thereis a procession from the Parliament “Løgtingið” to theCathedral, where a service is held and choirs sing, and thenthe partying continues until dawn, though Ólavsøka formallyends at midnight. In fact the Ólavsøka fun is prolonged at bothends, as those in a party mood tend to warm up for severalevenings before the official programme begins and then takeone evening more to wind down afterwards. This is a magicaltime in the Faroe Islands, whether you are there as a guest orlocal.

A Key to the Past

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So Far, So CloseAlthough the Faroe Islands may seem remote, they are infact one or two hours away from Europe by air and offereverything a modern traveller needs. You can find a varietyof accommodation, from high-class hotels to basic bedand breakfasts. People are friendly and speak Scandinavianand English. The Faroese capital, Tórshavn, is small andcompact but bursting with life. There are several caféswhich transform into bars at night, often with live music;nightclubs open at weekends, and when it comes to winingand dining there is a range from fast food, pizza and orien-tal, to à la carte restaurants.

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Iceland

The Faroe Islands: 18 islands, 17 ofthem inhabited.

Location: In the middle of the NorthAtlantic at 62°N northwest of Scotland andhalfway between Iceland and Norway.

Area: 1,399 km2

Coastline: The total length of the islandscoastline is 1,100 km, slightly longer thanthe distance between Tórshavn and Oslo.

Highest point: Slættaratindur peak (882 m).

Average elevation: 300 m above sealevel.

Climate: Average temperature in summer11°C, in winter 3°C.

Population: Approx 50,000

Language: Faroese, a language rooted inOld Norse.

Capital: Tórshavn is the smallest capitalcity in the world, with 19,000 people livingin the capital area.

Status: A self-governing region within theDanish kingdom. The Faroe Islands havetheir own parliament, “Løgtingið”, and theirown flag, “Merkið” (a red and blue crosson a white background).

Trade and industry: Export of seafoodproducts 97%.

Religion: Christian, 80% of the populationbelongs to the Faroese state church andEvangelical-Lutheran and 10% to theChristian Brethren.

How to get there: Although the FaroeIslands are situated in the middle ofthe Atlantic they are easily accessible byair or sea. Atlantic Airways offers directflights to the UK, some Scandinavian citiesand Iceland; check out www.atlantic.foIf you prefer to travel by sea, Smyril Linehas weekly departures from Denmark,Norway, Scotland and Iceland; check outwww.smyril-line.com

How to get around: Getting around theFaroes Islands is easy. The roads aregood and the public transport system iswell developed. Bus services connectcities and villages, while ferries and heli-copters serve more remote areas.Strandfaraskip Landsins operates the busand ferry lines; for timetables checkwww.ssl.fo Atlantic Airways operates thehelicopter service; for timetables seewww.atlantic.fo

Where to stay: You can stay at hotels,guesthouses, youth hostels or rent a sum-merhouse. If you prefer camping, mostislands have a campsite where you canpark your caravan or pitch your tent.

You can find an accommodation list atwww.visit-faroeislands.com

What to do: The scenery in the FaroesIslands is spectacular. How you choose toexperience it is up to you. You can strapon your hiking boots and follow one of theold cairn-marked trails, make yourselfcomfortable on a bus, or take an unforget-table boat tour to the bird-cliffs. You cansend the family pony-trekking while youyourself don a pair of waders and try outyour new fishing rod. Or, if art and cultureare more up your street, there are themuseums and Faroese cultural evenings.During the summer there are also a varietyof festivals: regional festivals with dancing,funfairs and sporting events, especially thetraditional Faroese rowing competitions,and music festivals offering concerts inchurches, theatres or in the open air.

For more information, contacts and dates,see www.visit-faroeislands.com

What to wear: The weather is quiteunpredictable and you can experience allfour seasons in one day, so we recom-mend that you bring sensible clothing: awaterproof and windproof jacket, sweater,warm hat and waterproof boots.You willalso need sunglasses and sunscreen toprotect you from the bright sunlight. Andbinoculars will come in useful for enjoyingthe splendid vistas and rich bird life.

Things You Need to Know

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Tourist Board and Trade CouncilBryggjubakki 12, P.O. Box 259, FO-110 Tórshavn

Faroe IslandsTel. +298 306 900Fax. +298 306 901

www.visit-faroeislands.comwww.samvit.fo

Wish you were here